If wanting an "always on - always display" volt meter, suggest - DM55-1 with American Plug -
If wondering, I bought one of these items for my TT, plugged into standard USA outlet and it works great. It shows the 110/120 Volt level in digital format. Much easier to read than an AC volt meter with analog needle.
Works for me…
I've owed both.
If given a choice between slide and without a slide, I'd go "without" a slide. That is correct. Without.
Slides have flat roofs and over time, they leak. Slide have rubbers around their edges and over time, they leak. They also let critters into the main chassis box as well. Slides also have moving parts. Moving parts that break and bind. And many slides stop the ability to pull over, use the washroom or have a quick rest in bed on kitchen table, then continue to drive. To use the insides, the slide must be motored out. Slide trailers take more energy to heat and cool as well.
I've own both and knowing what I know today, NO slide trailer is best for me. My next trailer will be without a slide.
Why do you feel the need for such a device ? Many of us have been RVing for twenty or thirty years with out one !
You are correct. I've never used 3rd party clean out tools either. And, never had problems with my many Black Water tank plugging up with too much sticky stuff.
For some folks before winterizing, I read many times they fill black tank 1/3 full with clear water (garden hose down the toilet bowl hole), add 2 x large bags of ice and drive home. As they drive home, the ice cube rub the inner sides of the black tank and "clean its sides". And, help clean sensors as well. When they get home, they simply dump the melted ice / cold water inside their black tank. From a white board, this low cost clean out method should work. I've never done it myself but it should work - without modifying or cutting holes on the side of the factory black tank.
Me thinks the posted Chev manual is wrong.
As stated within Trailer Towing site (which is specialized in towing), the vehicle's air bags (air shocks) are deflated, WDH is then attached / adjusted. Then, if desired, air bags (or air shocks) are aired up - to give "suppliment" support. re: http://www.etrailer.com/question-9425.html
If wondering, I've been doing this method for years. Again… Air Bags / Air shocks is for the Tow Vehicle's factory soft rear suspension. WHS is for the trailer tongue weight. And, both are adjusted (for confirmed weight distribution) within legal scales.
The air bags is for the Vehicle. The WDS (with properly rated bars) is for the Trailer's tongue weight.
When adjustment, use the air bags lbs for the Tow Vehicle. When adjustment, use the WD System for the trailer. Simply follow the process - to get the TV & TT to the legal weight scales. Them, use the weight scale to make fine adjustments to the WD system.
If wondering… If one buys a Vehicle that has factory air bags, its factory manual clearly states to adjust the trailer's WD System with NO air in the air bags.
Over studying physics creates a headache.
If the air bags and WDH setup are improper, then YES. They will conflict with each other.
Many people forget that Air Bags (or Timbrens), is to ONLY improve the Vehicle's rear suspension. WDH with proper bars and properly set links are for the Trailer's Tongue weight. From the white board physics "zone" view, both areas are completely different. And if used together improperly, they will conflict with each other.
Here's how to set both air bags and WDH properly.
With NO trailer connected, load the rear of the vehicle as if going on a normal camping trip. re: Kayak's on the roof, some peddle bikes, some fire wood, many by your tool box that contains a cooler and tools. Now, take for a drive. Again, drive with NO trailer connected. If the rear of a pickup feels like "mush", add another 5 lbs of air. Then, drive around again. Keep driving around and keep airing up 5 lbs intervals until the rear of the Vehicle looks and feels right. Once it's "perfect" (with NO trailer connected), write down the number of air lbs in the air bag. Could be 25. Could be 30. Each vehicle is different.
Now, here comes the secret.
Let most of the air out of air bags. Only leave 5 lbs in them. Connect Pickup to the Trailer and connect WDH as well. The rear of a pickup will go DOWN. This is normal. Keep adjusting the WDH until the connected trailer's "stance" looks good. Now, add previously recorded air back into the Vehicle's Air Bags. This will get your Tow Vehicle and Trailer to the scale.
At the legal scales, adjust the WDH system until proper amount of weight is distributed across the Tow Vehicle. Record the air bags lbs. Record the WDH adjustment (like number of links or number of showing threads). Put this paper in your TV's glove box. Next time your load up Tow Vehicle and Trailer with similar loading, use the same adjustments.
Remember Air Bags is to remove "mush" feeling in the rear of a loaded vehicle. WDH is for Trailer's tongue weight. Both can be used together - if set properly...
This works for me…
Forgot to mention….
If one is replacing bearings/seals on existing axle, have a serious look at tire wear, tire condition and its leaf spring parts as well. If tires are wearing funny (which is a sign of bent axle or being over stressed), other parts are too rusty or one's "inner voice" kicks in, then seriously investigate the need for larger axle size as well. IMO, many trailers (big and small) are built with minimum axle size and minimum tire size ratings. For example, a 3,200 lbs axle under loaded PUP that weigh's 3,100 lbs. If your PUP needs more than bearings / seals maintenance, seriously consider upgrading to larger size axle as well. For example, replace existing 3,200 lbs axle with brand new 3,600 lbs axle (which is next size up) - for buffer on those double railway tracks / roads with extra deep bumps.
If wondering, I just replaced the 2 x tires/rims under my boat. They were factory ST185/80R (C rating) and after lots of research, I replaced rum/rubber with ST185/80D ("D" rating) - which gives me 300 lbs "more" strength per tire. That's 600 lbs of extra "buffer" - for those double railway tracks and extra deep bump road abuse. If one's PUP also needs new rubber, do consider replacing with "next size up" rims/rubber as well.
Another TIP: If your loaded PUPs weight is more than Tow Vehicle's Cargo Capacity, I'd recommend installing brakes under your attached PUP as well. In my region, trailer weight before needing brakes is 3,000 lbs. My mini-van's Tow Vehicle's Cargo Capacity (meaning, how much weight within its rear cago area) is 1,500 lbs. Each of my trailer's rated to pull more than 1,500 lbs NOW has brakes. By comparing BEFORE and AFTER braking power, I'm now a firm believer that braking laws in my region should be changed to 1,500+ lbs. Meaning, their comparison of before and after is a NO Contest comparison. Especially when trailer brakes are installed with STAR wiring design. Long mumblings short… If one's PUP is more than 1,500 lbs and attached TV's max cargo capacity is 1,500 lbs, then DO install brakes under the PUP as well. It's well worth it. Especially if replacing with much better axle at the same time.
Hope this helps as well..
If you have a set of callipers, you can remove the bearing from the axle (spindle) and simply measure the spindle size. Another option is to remove the old bearing and seal, clean them up and take to a local store that sells trailering parts. Many of the stores will allow you to open packages and visually match the bearing (to the many different bearings / seals they have in stock).
For a good calliper, surf: - Click Here -
For pictures of spindle sizes, surf: - Click Here -
For me, I usually remove the old parts, clean them up and visit my local auto/trailer parts store for visual match.
Hope this helps…
Instead of "drilling" holes into each felt pads, I simply use a soldering iron and burn a hole in the centre. Clean, simple and its less dangerous - than a slipping pad that gets caught on the drill bit. re: - Click Here -
Hope this tip helps as well.
Looks great. Easy to access. Easy to see its LEDs. I like it!!!!
Only minor update I would do is:
- Install using 4 x screws. Above picture only shows top left screw.
Also… Some of Surge Guard hardwired units have a minor humming sound. As a suggestion, visit your local Dollar store and buy 4 x round felt stick on pads. Drill a hole in the centre of each pad. Install these pads between wall and the Surge unit (with screw going within the hole of the pad). Only lightly "snug down" the screws. The added gapping of the felt pads also keeps the Surge Guard underbelly off the wall surface as well. And, helps reduce the humming sound.
For a good picture of similar install with felt pads, surf: - Click Here -
For picture of round felt pads, surf: - click here -
Hope these tips help…
Of all the different safety equipment of both Trailer and Tow Vehicle, I found the STAR wiring design is awesome I applied this STAR wiring design to all my trailers with electric brakes. IMO, STAR design should be minimum code on all trailers. Perhaps one day..
One can do both front wheels or both rear wheels at the same time. Will need 2 x bottle jacks. And, 2 set of safety blocks as well. For me, I do 1 x at a time and have 3 wheels blocked. And, I use 1 x bottle back and some blocks (safety blocks) in case the bottle jack under the axle hub area lets go. IMO, one at a time is a good safety pace.
DO NOT jack from the middle as this will bend the axle. Place your jack under each wheel where the axle attaches to the spring. I would suggest doing one wheel at a time or one side at the time
Jack under the axle - nearest to the outer hub as well. And, I do 1 at a time as well. And, only lift the wheel 1" off the ground. Easy and simple.
I'm with JJBIRISH
Subtracting tongue weight (with our without WDH system) is used when:
- Trailer makers assume the Tow Vehicle ALWAYS uses a WDH. And we all know this isn't the case.
- Trailers tow on level ground (without gravity shift influences). And we all know this isn't the case.
- Trailers don't get nailed with double railway tracks or the oppps "big hole" bump. And we all know this isn't the case.
- Trailer makers find a way to lower lost - by using cheap math tricks to legally install a lower size / lower costing axles. Save a dime and they make more profits.
- Trailers makers also assume a trailer is always 100% balanced sized to size. We all know that a trailer with a slide is heavier weight on one side.
For my many trailers (that I got built and buy), I never subtract the tongue weight - when calculating axle weight size. If a trailer is "averaged loaded" of 7,000 lbs, I don't use 2 x 350 lbs axles subtract WDH weight transfer offset. From white board, the trailer needs a minimum 2 x 3,500 axles and leafs. Since our real world is based on reality and many influences (not pure white board math), I install 2 x 5,200 axles. And, install larger than 2 x 3,500 leaf spring packs as well.
Using above, I've never had suspension problems with my build better than minimum suspensions.
As some say, "built is right or not at all…".
If I remember correctly, many Vehicle makers set their vehicle's MAX towing numbers based on empty vehicle, 1/4 tank of gas and a skinny 150 lbs driver. Thus, making their max towing numbers over flatted (for a better marketing glossy sales view).
With above in mind….
"2008 Jeep with v-8/ trailer-tow. I think its rated for 650 lbs tongue, 1200 lbs payload and around 7,000 lbs tow" is more like 7,000 lbs - weight of all items within Vehicle (which is could be 3 x 200 lbs adults + 200 lbs of gear) = 800 lb.. Subtract the Weight Distribution hitch as well = 1,000 lbs. That means 7,000 max - 1,000 average loaded items = 6,000 lbs remaining.
Trailer's "Dry" weight is often published. To me, dry weight numbers should NEVER be used. Instead, use trailer's max loaded weight. re: GVWR For example, the Lance 165 model has GVWR of 5400 Lbs This is the max weight (chassis and loaded items) its suspension is rated to carry.
Now… Take other "stress influence" variables into account as well. For example, strong winds, driving along lakes (that has strong wind gusts) and towing up hills. These items add extra towing "stress" on the Tow Vehicle (due to attached trailer's wind wall shape) as well. Always allow some buffer room for both known and unknown towing stresses as well.
With above in mind…. Here's what to use as max towing numbers:
- Scale Vehicle weight + added people and internal cargo inside it
- Dry Trailer rating + added internal items such as AC, cloths, food, etc.
Note: Instead of trying to calculate this number, simply use the Trailer's max loaded weight number. re: its GVWR number.
- Factor in known and unknown towing stresses (such as hills, strong head winds, etc.). Towing against the wind &/or up hills "feels like" towing another 800 more lbs.
Add and subtract the above numbers and for a vehicle that's rated to pull 7,000 lbs trailer, I'd focus on a trailer that has low 5,000 lbs GVWR number. The Lance 165 model "lightly packed" (or similar 2 x axle RV/TT) sounds good to me.
Note: I once towed at my vehicle's MAX number and 1.5 years, the transmission blew up. The transmission guy installed a tranny kit and during the rebuild task, he instantly knew my vehicle was previously "over stressed" while towing. As lesson learned, don't pull at max weight numbers. Your vehicle's tranny and rear end will thank you.
Hope this helps…
Before towing after winter storage, I always remove each wheel hub, manually remove any natural rust, check magnet current flow, check inner wires, measure remaining pad thickness, measure drum thickness. Only method to complete these tasks on an electric drum system is to manually remove each wheel hub. And when removing each wheel hub, I re-pack its wheel bearing grease as well.
If wondering, Dexter axle maker recommends the same "minimum 1 time per year" as well.
If wondering, I would jack up and perform these tasks BEFORE towing out of winter storage parking lot. Thus, ensuring trailer brakes before its wheels hit the public roads.