RE: Half ton towing
The wife and I were looking at all of the different size fifth wheels, some short and some are not. Almost all are towed with a F-250 or larger. We were courious if any manufacture has models that are 1/2 ton towable
There are definitely plenty of fivers that are half ton towable. They are the smaller ones of course. If you own an appropriate half ton, it can make sense.
If you own an Expedition, and have to buy a pickup anyway, it wouldn't make any sense to me to go out and choose a half ton. It doesn't cost but a little to get a 3/4 ton, and only a little more to get a 1 ton. There isn't any downside, except for a few who live in certain cities that don't want trucks around.
RE: Do I need a bearing repack?
No way would I be packing the bearings on a 1 year old trailer with almost no miles. That's just me, backed up with a lot of experience. But if you've got lingering doubts in your mind, then it may be worth the expense to pull a hub and check them.
If you have to ask this question, you may not have the experience to do this job yourself, particularly just before you leave for an extended trip.
RE: Well it "ALMOST" happened
I've had the cord tangle more than once. Was always able to work it out, but still a pain in the patoot. From inside the access panel was just screwed down, so I could remove it if necessary. I modified that panel to be an easy opening door. Now the cord probably won't ever get stuck since it is so easy to get to, but if it ever does I'll feel really smart for a few minutes.
RE: New truck break in period.
One, people like you who believe there is some sort of conspiracy theory when it comes to OEM's recommendations and people on the internet will know better.
Yea, the irony is not lost on me, you can be sure.
But, it is not a conspiracy theory to acknowledge that many factors go into manufacturers maintenance recommendations, or ratings, or whatever.
Anyway, we're getting way off topic. As I said earlier, break-in periods are important, and not just made up or junk science, so ignore them at your own risk.
RE: New truck break in period.
...you came after me for giving my opinion on how to do a break in period on a vehicle..why, I don't know...
Nah, not coming after you. Simply quoted you to make a general point. You're taking things a bit too personally, again.
I'm beginning to notice you don't like being quoted, so I shall try to refrain in the future.
RE: New truck break in period.
....bottom line, didn't read through all this, maybe I should have, but I would look at the owners manual and do what the manufacturer of your vehicle recommends as far as a break in period/mileage empty and towing goes....that's the way I've aways done it and never had the first issue or problem with the vehicle...I figure the people who design and manufacture the truck ought to know the best way to "break it in" and have put that in the owners manual to be read by the owner.
And therefore, you assume that manufacturers always have YOUR best interest in mind? Sorry but I don't think life is so simple that you can just blindly follow a manufacturers recommendation without doing some research on your own. Asking this question to the forum is just one form of research.
RE: Volt Minder
...Regarding the default alarm voltage being too low, please keep in mind that this can be set from 10.5V to 13.5V. Also, this setting is saved so that if you disconnect the unit, it remains the same when you plug it back in. ...
Are you refering to the old model, or the soon to be released model? Because that is not my experience with my old model. It loses the alarm setting when powered down.
Thanks for joining the convo here on the forum. Like I said, I do like your product.
Gary contacted me on the PM side, and my Voltminder should be holding the alarm settings in memory. My own memory is not so reliable. Please disregard my comments about the alarm. Sorry for the misinformation.
Obviously I'm too lazy to go out and disconnect my batteries to find out. :o
RE: New truck break in period.
The 500 mile statement is in our manual for the 3500 gas, but it doesn't state it anywhere in the duramax booklet. At least I can't find it. We were given both manuals. To be safe, I guess we will put off picking up the new fifth for another week. I'm sure they will hold it for us for another week. We are just anxious to get it.
How far to get it home? I belive in following the break-in recommendation, and yes, it is for the gears not the engine. But if you've got a 50 mile short haul to get your trailer home, I would do that. Just take it as easy as you can and get that trailer home. You won't do any harm with a short haul.
RE: Volt Minder
...Regarding the default alarm voltage being too low, please keep in mind that this can be set from 10.5V to 13.5V. Also, this setting is saved so that if you disconnect the unit, it remains the same when you plug it back in. ...
Are you refering to the old model, or the soon to be released model? Because that is not my experience with my old model. It loses the alarm setting when powered down.
Thanks for joining the convo here on the forum. Like I said, I do like your product.
RE: Volt Minder
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v7UJIu0cXwQ/TdaNm7PGl0I/AAAAAAAAAhw/6Iai-T_nz2Y/s640/Voltmeter2.JPG
I like my Voltminder fine. Moved it from our old trailer to the new one. But there are plenty of digital volt meters out there, and if I was going to mount it semi-permanently like I did, I wouldn't wait around for Voltminder to get back in stock. It does have the alarm, but it isn't very useful IMO. The default alarm voltage is too low to be useful. I think you can change it, but it will lose the setting every time power is disconnected. If you camp off the grid a lot like we do, you won't have any problem remembering to check the voltage level frequently, so the alarm isn't important.
RE: Leveling and chocks
:h Am I ever befuddled about the comment on not putting a block under just one wheel. I have been doing it for decades if I just need to raise a smidge on the side.
Same here. That's how you get leveling equal to half a block.
I can see the concern if we were talking about leaving one axle dangling, but not for a few inches difference. The suspension is designed to distribute that.
RE: Leveling and chocks
It's all good.
I'll say one good thing about the orange or yellow plastic blocks - it's probably harder to accidentally drive away and leave them at a site. Which I've done with wooden blocks. Pulling off the blocks is about the last thing we do before leaving a site, and it is very easy to just forget them.
RE: Leveling and chocks
All I use is treated wood. Been camping for 30 yrs.
Here here! I don't know why people waste money on plastic thingies.
All I've ever needed:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7JHxZqHHm5M/UEFKG5YM2dI/AAAAAAAAB8E/zFEqp546Ar0/s640/DSCN2286.JPG
Carry a mess-o them. They are handy for lots of things around camp, and won't melt under the BBQ.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-yNRczGVQjkY/UB0x5HYgnLI/AAAAAAAAB7M/cQHVvIUwIvg/s640/DSCN2272.JPG
RE: New to RV's.
All I can say about the manual is, expect to be disappointed. I haven't seen one yet that had anything but very generic, and often incorrect, info.
Your best bet is to learn about the systems and how they work, and the knowledge will mostly apply to all units. Hanging out here is a great source for knowledge, and you can also find good books on RV maintenance at any RV store like Camping World. Or the library.
I hope the seller comes through with the manual because it is nice to have, but I wouldn't hang around waiting for it. Obviously you aren't, because you are here.
RE: New to RV's.
Just got a great deal on an Alpenlite 26rl Lacosta. Had to drive 400 miles to pick it up, but it was worth it. This is my first camper and I have a lot of questions. First is when I went to pick it up, the batteries terminals were corroded very badly and the batteries were removed from the coach. I brought along a single car battery to hook up in case the coach became separated from the truck the brakes would work. However I think I may have hooked up the battery backwards. I was wondering if I may have damaged anything doing so. The only things turned on were the 12v lights and vent fan. Only for a moment. How will I know if anything is damaged. I am getting ready to put 2 new deep cycle batteries in it.
If you were plugged into shore power, you might have blown the reverse polarity fuses on the power converter, or worst case, blown the converter. But if you were not plugged in while the battery was backward, then that won't be an issue.
If you were connected to the tow vehicle while the trailer battery was backward, then you might have damaged not only the trailer battery, but the alternator in your truck.
If you just had the battery backward for a few moments, while not connected to either shore power or the truck, then it should not have damaged anything. Incandescent lights and vent motors will run fine regardless of polarity.
Now you just have to test everything out, which you would have to do anyway on a new to you trailer.
Good luck, and welcome to RV life.
RE: Low water pressure in lav
Not only can a regulator go bad, they can restrict flow even when working perfectly. For example, if the city water line only has 50psi, and you put a 50psi regulator on the line, you're going to get very little flow. And with the cheapest sticky regulators, you might get zero. Pull it off and see what you've got. Maybe put a gauge on the hose bib and see what they've got.
RE: Installing 30 amp box at home
If you go with a 50A then make sure you have a way of cutting power to it while you plug your 30A trailer into it. If you don't you risk the chance of a combination of conductors connecting in such a way as to get a momentary 220V to your RV while plugging in.
While I agree that turning a breaker off before plugging in is a good idea, doesn't a properly wired circuit protect against 220V hitting a 30A camper if using the proper adapter?
Yeah Scott, I think you're off base there. Although I do like turning the breaker off when I plug in. But only because I don't like to see any arc when the plug blades make contact and my hand is rattling it around. Same when I unplug. But I think the risk of you getting 220 across your trailer is about the same as you getting a bad shock through your body. Near zero.
