Yep, we have a big one, 2000 watt pure sine..have had it for four years now.
When do you run it? ------ Almost all the time, travelling and all.
How much did it cost you? ------ Don't recall, it was part of a package(LOTS).
How many batteries do you have?------6, gel cells, zero maintenance, plenty $$$$$ but good.
How long does it last you?------We're heavy users, 24-48 hrs even with 600 watts of solar on the roof. We have a Honda 3000 as backup in case we run the batteries down too much. Then we'll run the genny for a couple of hours after supper just top them up up until morning. (happens a lot!)
Would we be without the setup? NO WAY!! It makes life soooo much easier!! :)
Definite "yep" on our part.. we're dragging our heels on heading south at the moment, for health reasons :( . But we're sure hoping to get going shortly before/after Christmas :) . As the cold enters our area, so does the arthritis and that's a big part of the reason we like, warm, sunny, dry, warm....oops Arizona!!
I'm sure you'll get lots of answers, but... The are lots of options, try goggling "mail forwarding services" and you'll find lots.
We used Escapees mail for several years then had to stay home for a while (health) and now are getting ready to go south again, so we'll probably sign up for SKP's again, or maybe go with UPS...gotta look into it a little bit more. On the other hand, we are still SKP members and may wind up in Livingston TX again to see some friends...time will tell.
Or you could just call your renters and tell 'em to forward it to General Delivery at whatever town/city etc that you'll be at for a while. That works too.
Good luck with whatever you choose, and happy traveling!!
From the point of view of a ' we live close to the border' person.... Besides there being an actual campground in Coutts ($10), and another in Milk River ($20), there's also a couple of BIG parking areas mainly intended for big trucks, one in Coutts and one in Milk River.
The one in Coutts is on the right hand side of the highway (the West side). When you're going south, once you pass the weigh scales, you have to make a right turn and then another right turn to go back a half a block to the wide open area. If you're northbound and you've come through the border, watch for the signs, it says "truck parking area", and it's just as you make the curve to the left. We go back and forth across the border there quite frequently and I've never noticed more than 3 or 4 rigs in there, so I don't think you'd really PO the truckers, as long as you don't pick a stupid parking spot that's going to interfere with their parking....after all, it IS intended for them!
The one in Milk River is on the 'town' side of the highway (East). There are two entrances to Milk River, north and south. If you take the NORTH exit you can't miss the parking area, it's right beside a little restaurant named Dino's. I've seen RV's stay there before, but I warn you, you could wake up in a forest(!) of big trucks in the morning, but that only happens occasionally. Just remember, try not to park where you'll interfere with their big rigs, and you should be okay.
Hmmm, I think I'd be inclined to warn you away from that one....at least, if you plan on camping near anyone else, and if you don't want to become 'unfriendly' with the neighbors. On the other hand, you could always take along a REALLY long extension cord. :B
I didn't know Duracell even made a generator, so I did a google search for it and came up with one on Amazon. Looking at the open frame motor sitting in the frame, I wondered how loud it would be. When I looked at the specs, the db rating is a rather noisy 70, at 8 yards away!! If you haven't experienced it, you'd be amazed at how loud the sound gets when you have to listen to it for any length of time.
JMHO, worth what you paid for it....just sayin'......
Can those caps come off?? Not normally. They are usually a two piece rig, with the base that surrounds the sewer vent pipe, and then the cap, that is held down by three of the screws that also hold down the base. I changed mine recently because of sun damage to the old ones, and it was quite easy.
A putty knife to remove the old sealant from the screw heads and then pry up (VERY CAREFULLY) the base from the rubber roof, once you have ALL the screws out. Gently clean off any of the old sealant and then wash the area to make sure it's clean and that the new sealant gets a good grip. It's likely that the new rig will fit the same holes so try and match up the holes so you don't make new ones. I used Dicor self levelling sealant; Run a bead of sealant where the old base sat and then put the new base in place, put back a couple of the screws (not the ones where the new cap will sit) to hold it in place, then put the cap in place and reinstall the remainder of the screws. Cover the screws with sealant and you're done.
It's really an easy job, even for an arthritic old fart like me, about half an hour from start to finish, at MY speed.
Like Dupreet suggested....and I have had experience this before on others folks trailers who had the same problem....sounds to me like your vent stack is plugged. This happens occasionaly on a lot of different units. Spiders will actually go down the stacks and create webs which them become blocked over time with dust and other "stuff".
If you take a tool, like one of the specialty tools for flushing out water heaters, you can take that up on the roof and "CAREFULLY" insert it underneath the vent cap and let 'er rip. The water will be flowing directly into your tank (black or grey) so make sure the tank is not the next best thing to full, or you could get a smelly surprise.
Generally, if the vent pipe is blocked by spider webs etc. etc. it will flush out pretty easily. On the other hand, if it is blocked by "other stuff" at the top of the tank due to overfilling, it might take a while for it to 'clear'.
Be persistent, especially if you get a back flush really quickly. Keep the hose running...eventually the weight of the water will flush the vent pipe clean and you'll be good to go....for a while.
When the vent pipe IS plugged, what happens is the vapors build up inside the black/grey tank (due to natural gassification) and with nowhere else to go, will seep back through the toilet when you flush, or slowly seep back while it's just sitting, creating that "uuuuccchhh" odor in the area.
Congrats on a great decision, I'm sure you won't be disappointed!
We pulled many, many miles with ours and (hopefully) will pull at least as many more in the years to come. We've not found any problems with ours at all.
Except for one time when we went into the the trailer and found ALL of our 'hanging' clothes on the floor in the front closet!! At first I thought the bar had somehow broken and dumped everything, but that wasn't it.
Eventually I figured out it was just the fact that the dumb driver (me!) had neglected to pump up the air bags on our TS hitch!! DUH!!! Never did THAT one again...
Gold Spring is nice, but they don't have sewer, only elec & water. They are quite a bit away from the highway which makes it nice and quiet. But it's also down a gravel road (dusty).
There is also another CG in Milk River (where we live) that is nice HERE
, but it's close to the highway. $20 for full hookups, right beside the river and the golf course.
I second the Hensley Trucontrol. We are now on our second (changed our TV) and we put the Gold model in. The TV had a Hoppy in it when we got it, and it refused to cooperate with the fiver brakes. Either off, or grabby on, very uncomfortable.
Almost forgot...put a level on top of the Companion and find out exactly what your hitch height is, subtract a couple of inches for drop when the trailer is hooked up. Take a tape measure when you go to see the trailer and after leveling it (if the ground is also level) measure from the kingpin plate to the ground. Keep in mind that if that height is too low compared to your hitch height, you could always opt to lift the trailer by dropping the axle to below the springs.
It's so very easy for any of us to say "this" is what you should pay. Ultimately, you are the only one who can make that decision, AFTER you go through it. Big hint....take along a really good (bright) flashlight and shine it in ALL the corners. Look for watermarks/stains on the ceiling, at the bottom of the walls, under the sink(s), etc. If possible, lay on your back in the basement and really check out the frame (if possible). Look everywhere for any aberration in the paneling inside the unit. Open the outside fridge access and check it out, looking for leakage. Before you go to see it, ask the owner to start the fridge and make sure it is C O L D when you see it.
You sound like you are comfortable with your own RV experience, so go with that.
Bottom line, if YOU like it, it is up to you to decide what you are willing to pay, so the suggestions here can be only that, because we cant see it from your eyes. One other BIG thing, does the WIFE like it..........how much does she like it.....
OK, 1st...(not to be insulting...really!)..are you a newbie?
Your experience with ANY rv's is paramount here. How many RV's have you had? Are you experienced enough to KNOW what to look for when you do a complete inspection? THAT IS PARAMOUNT!! If you don't know, get one of your friends who IS experienced, go with you and do an INTENSE inspection before you make any kind of an offer.
My brother-in-law (a newbie) asked for my advice before he bought a used fifth wheel and by the time I finished inspecting the unit with the salesman present, the price dropped by four thousand dollars!! He eventually wound up passing on that unit, but did buy another one later on.
"Inspection" is the key word. Cleanliness is great, but if you don't know what to look for (and the list is long) GET HELP from someone you trust!
JMHO...yours may differ.