RE: Slide toppers collects rain water then freezes solid
It's too late now, but I am another one that drops the front of the MH to drain any water before retracing the slides when I have been in wet conditions. Thin sheets of ice have broken up and fallen off when retracting the slides without a problem. I hope your hole theory works, but I would do it to my toppers. They are there to keep the water off the top of the slides.
RE: Insurance Quotes
You are doing the right thing by shopping rates. Every insurance company is going to have different rates for different parts of the country. In my part of the country (hurricane) many of the insurance companies don't want to insure your MH and they do that by quoting so high you will insure elsewhere. GMAC gave me the best quote and has stayed fairly even for the past 5 years.
RE: Help with Tow Bar and Braking
Chuck, I just thought I'd throw a couple more systems out there for the OP to look at.. Just trying to help.. Also I'm not a fan of dead pedal braking, that's why I chose SMI, it uses my vehicle's power brakes.. You're right M&G can not be transfered unless the vehicles are alike, and even then it may not.. The Ready system looks like a very nice simple mechanical brake and tow bar that should give good service..
Mike..
Mike I agree, I had an M&G and it was a great, simple system. However I have been through a few toads now and moving it was not as simple as I had hoped for so I let it go with the first toad. By adding the Ready Brake to the new toad, I hope it will be the last brake system I need to buy as it is so easy to change from one toad to another.
RE: Auxiliary Braking Mechanism Power
Bumby on here has one a swears by it. It gives him the power he needs for his Brake Buddy without draining the car battery and he always has an emergency jump start with him.
RE: Workhorse Reimbursemenrt
At this point, it comes down to what is your time is worth? We all know that Workhorse is not belling up to the bar on this problem. So you can file complaints with the NTSB (another Government agency) send letters to MH magazine, Good Sam's and FMCA and hope for the best. Or try to enjoy your MH and hope there is no more problems to contend with.
It is a darn shame how Workhorse is addressing this problem, their NOT!!
RE: Renting your RV to people
Before you decide to rent your RV, visit a rental lot and look at the conditions of the rental units. Then ask yourself if you would like your unit to look like after it's been rented a few times. I sure wouldn't rent mine, I work to hard to keep it in excellent condition.
RE: Help with Tow Bar and Braking
And the actuators install where??? What are the air lines connected to to make the brakes work? M&G is a good system, but sure not as simple as a Ready Brake. In addition, it takes a trade in of equipment to be able yo use the M & G on another toad, where the Ready Brake just gets moved with no new equipment required.
I would suggest M & G or SMI Air Force One.. With either one of these you have an air line/hose to hook up and that's it.. Both are proportional braking using the vehicle's system..
Mike..
RE: Brake/turn light problem on 08 CRV
Since it has worked fine for quite sometime, I would start with the simple things first. The first being to clean all of the plug connections starting from the MH and every plug connection to the CR-V. There is a good chance that all you have is a dirty or corroded plug connection. After cleaning the plugs, spray both parts of the plug with silicone to help protect them. If that doesn't do it, pull the plugs apart (one screw) and see if the wire connections on the inside of the plug are corroded.
RE: Help with Tow Bar and Braking
That is the GREAT part about the Ready Brake, nothing to install, just connect a cable to the brake peddle and it's done. The brake system is part of the tow bar and there are no modification required to make it work.
If you have a later Wrangler (mine is an 09), the M&G requires you to relocate a bunch of stuff in front of the master cylinder. There is a 4" adapter that goes between the master cylinder and the booster, and there is only 1" clearance in front of my master cylinder. I called M&G about it and they told me I had to relocate the ABS system, and I can't see any easy place. In addition, all the hard steel brake tubing must be modified -- according to M&G, you just "rearrange" them.
Although the M&G would be my favorite from my simple internet review, it would be a bugger for me to do. That's probably why they recommend professional installation, I guess.Chuck, wait a minute here. Just how does that cable get from the ReadyBrake on the motorhome to the brake pedal on the car. Seems that there are some pullys attached to toad in the engine compartment. Someone has to hook it up. And there is some alignment of the cable under the hood to contend with. Once all is installed, then it is a matter of hooking the two cables together and going down the road. That said, I am a big fan of keeping it simple! And ReadyBrake does just that.
I should clarify my statement, the only thing to install is the cable to the brake peddle. It is an aircraft cable and is fairly easy to connect in MOST cars. There are no pulleys to install, but a few people have made their own as they felt it was a better installation.
As you said, it is about as simple as it gets and it flat out works.
RE: Licensing an RV in Montana
Buck62 is a 100% right on! We had our Florida Trust Attorney coordinate the Montana LLC with the law firm in MT. The Montana LLC was then added to our Family Trust as an asset of the Trust. All paper work was reviewed by our CPA with a "no problem" answer. That person in that Family Trust has since passed away but the LLC is still alive and passed down one generation, with no taxes due. We have traveled from one end of the US to the other including all of CA. with MT plate on the MH and FL plates on the toad, never had one bit of a problem.
Insurance has never been a problem (GMAC) all they asked for was licensed drivers and location of storage. The LLC did give us lower insurance rates due to the Limited Liability.
LLC's can be a fantastic tool in estate planning, not only for what some others use it for, being lower taxes.
RE: Help with Tow Bar and Braking
That is the GREAT part about the Ready Brake, nothing to install, just connect a cable to the brake peddle and it's done. The brake system is part of the tow bar and there are no modification required to make it work.
If you have a later Wrangler (mine is an 09), the M&G requires you to relocate a bunch of stuff in front of the master cylinder. There is a 4" adapter that goes between the master cylinder and the booster, and there is only 1" clearance in front of my master cylinder. I called M&G about it and they told me I had to relocate the ABS system, and I can't see any easy place. In addition, all the hard steel brake tubing must be modified -- according to M&G, you just "rearrange" them.
Although the M&G would be my favorite from my simple internet review, it would be a bugger for me to do. That's probably why they recommend professional installation, I guess.
RE: Help with Tow Bar and Braking
If stating out with all new equipment, as others have said, Ready Brute tow bar with the brake system all in one unit. This is about as easy as it comes for "plug and play" and flat out works with no mechanical problems. I currently have a blue ox tow bar, but I will be adding the Ready Brake on my new toad. If I was buying new, it would be the Ready Brute.
RE: Brakebuddy drains car battery?
Golden HVAC was right on with his suggestions of your problem. From what I have read here, it seems to be a common problem with CR-V's. Many CR-V owners have run the charging wire like Golden HVAC suggested. However, I would replace the battery if it is more that 3 years old and see if that solves the problem.
My Jeep Liberty battery was 2 years old when I had that problem, changed the battery and the dead battery while towing went away.
RE: My 02 Jeep GC running lights don't work when towing?
Should be an easy fix. With a test light or 12V meter check the tail light connector at the MH plug with the MH lights turned on, it should be the brown wire. If you have power there, plug in the light cord and check the end of the cord before you plug it into the jeep. Note: on 4 prong ROUND connectors it is very common for one of the male pins to close slightly not making a connection. Take a pocket knife and spreed the connector out enough to make contact when plugged in and see if that is your problem.
RE: My 02 Jeep GC running lights don't work when towing?
You will NOT have running lights on your jeep with a towing light wiring setup. You have a 4 wire plug, one wire for tail lights, second wire, right turn signal and brake light, third wire, left turn signal and brake light, fourth wire, ground. There are no wires left for running lights as the running lights are on a separate circuit, therefore not wired when wired for towing.
If you really want running lights, you will have to run a wire from the running lights of the MH, find the running light wire in the wiring harness for the Jeep and tap into that.
RE: Towing with a class C question
Consider what the receiver hitch on the Jayco is rated for, probably not 5400 pounds. Most likely 3500#.
At the moment the hitch is rated for 5000 pounds, but I would upgrade the hitch.
Dan
Upgrading the hitch will NOT increase the towing capability. You still have transmission, brakes and frame limits and that is why a 5,000 lb. hitch was installed by your manufacture. You will still be 400 pounds over weight, plus any gear you may carry or additional fuel in the tank of your toad.
Actually a 5000 lb hitch was used because that's the difference between GVWR and GCWR. From what I have read from the experts in Motorhome magazine and elsewhere the actual weight you can tow is the difference between your actual weight and the GCWR.
I was asking if anyone has towed that kind of weight with a class C. As some have said here there apparently are people doing it.
At this point I would talk to the experts in your situation, the manufacture of your MH. They are the ONLY ones that can give you the correct answer.....Is my MH able to tow 5,400 plus pounds without causing damage to the drive line?
RE: Towing with a class C question
Consider what the receiver hitch on the Jayco is rated for, probably not 5400 pounds. Most likely 3500#.
At the moment the hitch is rated for 5000 pounds, but I would upgrade the hitch.
Dan
Upgrading the hitch will NOT increase the towing capability. You still have transmission, brakes and frame limits and that is why a 5,000 lb. hitch was installed by your manufacture. You will still be 400 pounds over weight, plus any gear you may carry or additional fuel in the tank of your toad.
