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 > Your search for posts made by 'burgess001' found 39 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Walmart Overnight Parking

It is very unlikely I would ever go to an RV park in an area where I was not allowed to park at Walmart. I don't like being manipulated. I would go on down the road to another Walmart or a truck stop.
burgess001 09/29/09 11:34am General RVing Issues
RE: Sewer Smell While Driving

Do you have a flush system? If so, there is probably an anti-siphon valve. It can stick open, allowing the black tank to vent inside the coach. To prevent water from being sucked out of the traps, some manufacturers add a spring loaded vent inside the coach (probably under a vanity). It can stick open, allowing the gray tank to vent inside the coach. Sometimes, the toilet can loosen slightly from the floor...or at other assembly points, allowing venting inside the coach. Unless there is a "leak," a sealed system cannot spread odors. Cleaning the tanks and/or chemicals cannot prevent that. It may be as simple as air from the roof sewer vents reentering through open roof vents. It may be a faulty seal somewhere in the system? I know the rotating sewer vents help, but they do not address the problem, only the symptom. We do not have them and we do not use chemicals. We seldom have an odor, but when we do, I fix the problem, not the symptom. Generally, when we have a problem, it stems from open windows and/or roof vents. Flushing the toilet with the exhaust fan on obviously draws air in through the black tank. Not good. When it happens, I open the bathroom vent (no exhaust fan) and turn on the dash vents. The dash vents create a positive pressure in the coach that must exit through the roof vent. Don't ask me why, but other combinations seem to create a negative pressure inside, and odors find their way in.
burgess001 09/29/09 11:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Holiday Rambler Ambassador-2009

I know the percentages look good on paper, but in reality...they ain't gonna happen. Somebody will come along who hasn't researched the market. The dealers know that. They are hurting, but generally not enough to take that kind of loss.
burgess001 09/27/09 08:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Detroit to NY - through Canada?

Have done it, but don't like leaving my .38 at home.
burgess001 09/27/09 08:12pm Roads and Routes
RE: Winterizing

I agree with downtheroad. You might want to install a hose with a valve and add a valve to the water tank line so you can do it easier next time. Also, don't put antifreeze in the water heater. Install a bypass if you have to. Finally, don't forget to open the check valve in the fresh water fill so antifreeze can flow back through that line also.
burgess001 09/27/09 08:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2.75/70R/22.5's vs. 2.75/80R/22.5's on an 04 DSDP

Two inch larger diameter... I wonder if it made a significant difference in the speedometer. Doesn't sound like enough to distort it too much??? I also wonder if replacing the front now and the rear later, with the 80's would effect the ride height enough to matter?
burgess001 09/27/09 08:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Water pressure problem

I have a valve that diverts fresh water from the water system and into the fresh water tank. Sometimes, I forget and leave it in bypass position. The pump will run forever and not pump a drop into the system. It is all pumping right back into the fresh water tank. Maybe you "accidentally" found such a valve in the process of winterizing???
burgess001 09/27/09 03:52pm General RVing Issues
RE: Roof Leak

Does water pool around the AC during and after a rain?
burgess001 09/27/09 03:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winterizing

Looks like you don't have a bypass, so you will not be able to winterize without running antifreeze through the water heater...which I really don't like to do. I suggest installing a bypass. It will be worth the effort in the long run.
burgess001 09/27/09 03:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Is buying into a membership Campgroud/RV Resort worth while

Look for a resale. You can save thousands, I think. If you can do a dynamite deal for a purchase now, I would suggest it would be a good idea...especially if the home park is someplace you want to spend a lot of time...or if you want to vacation there for the next 5 years (smile). In other words...will you get your money's worth...at least the annual dues and interest on the purchase price? When the economy rebounds, these resale deals may dry up and full price might be more the order of the day. Good luck with your decision.
burgess001 09/27/09 03:40pm RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
RE: Holiday Rambler Ambassador-2009

Of course, the trade-in offer is the deal maker or breaker. If they will give you an inflated value for your DSDP, its a toss. If not, you better walk. You will be way upside down, in terms of investment...if not loan. Personally, I'm not an objective observer. I like the HR, but I'm pretty well sold on Newmar. I like the family owned position Newmar is in. I would say that if you can save enough to self-insure any warranty losses...maybe that would be OK? If it were me, I would look at spending a few thousand for interior and exterior upgrades. Granted, you will still have an 02 coach, but a good one...and a pocket full of money. If you NEED the space...again...OK. But, just as a thought, measure between the outside walls in the respective living rooms. I bet your two slide coach is almost as wide as the 4 slide model. Further, investigate the Joey beds. I had one installed and the side opening doors are no longer of any interest. Totally not needed. I will probably install another one. You have...in my opinion, about the perfect chassis/engine combination. The 350 Cummins is really hard to beat for power and economy. The Spartan is very competitive with any mid-priced chassis. I have a 330 Cat in a Freightliner. Wish I had your combination. You have a tried and proven coach that may be better or worse than the Holiday Rambler over the next few years. I hope I didn't answer any questions for you, but I hope I helped you ask some good ones. All the best in you decision.
burgess001 09/27/09 03:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Used Diesel Pusher?

Remember that a 5 year old coach that has been "LIVED" in full time has the wear and tear on the house part that a 20 year old "vacation" coach might have. AC, fridge, furnace, water heater...even the levelers. We made that mistake, and it ate our lunch.
burgess001 09/27/09 03:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Synthentic Oil in a Diesel Engine??

I change once a year. Normally about 12,000 miles +/- a couple thou. Use dino oil. I know...this irresponsible, careless attitude may cut my engine life from 1,000,000 miles to half that. Just a chance I'll have to take (smile). BTW...engine (including genset) is the only thing I DON'T use synthetic in.
burgess001 09/27/09 02:51pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dutchstar compartment leaks

It occurs that you also have three or more roof vents that run to that bay. You may have a leak around a vent that allows water to trail to the bay. Since it only does it in the rain, it would seem you could rule out fresh water system leaks.
burgess001 09/27/09 02:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dutchstar compartment leaks

Vince, I'm guessing you need new door seals. I had the same issue. Try this: Take some colored chalk and mark around the door frame where the seal will seat. Try directing a hard stream of water around the door seal for a while. Allow the excess water to run off and open the door. See if the water has washed the chalk away. Then, you will know. Good luck.
burgess001 09/27/09 02:29pm Class A Motorhomes
2.75/70R/22.5's vs. 2.75/80R/22.5's on an 04 DSDP

On another thread, TMitchell posted the following: "I also have a 2004 DSDP on a Spartan chassis. I replaced my tires 2 years ago. The main reason was to upgrade from the hard riding 70 series XZA1 LRJ to Michelin XZA3 LRH 275/80R22.5s." Tom ____________________________________ So...My question is: I replaced 255/80R22.5' XRVs on my old 98 DSDP with 275/70R22.5 XZA's (in about '03). The resulting ride and handling was incredibly better. Are we at a place in tire technology now, that the narrower tire will deliver a better ride and handling? I was able to drop tire pressure about 10 lbs per tire with my changeover on the 98. Will I need to run higher pressure if I go to the 80's again? Will I not lose braking power with the smaller footprint? Will higher pressure and smaller footprint give marginally better MPG's? What's the prevailing wisdom on this?
burgess001 09/27/09 02:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tires in great shape, but getting old

This has been a great discussion and a lot of help. Thanks to everyone (even Johnny who kept it clean) Based on what I've read, here is what I'm going to do: I will take it to the shop and have one front tire removed and inspected, inside and out. Inside deterioration should be about the same on all tires. If it looks good, I'll plan on two more years (7-8 years total). Then, its replacement for sure. If it looks OK...but not clearly good for continued use... I'll replace the front only this year. The way I'm loaded, and the tire size, I only have to run about 95 lbs in the rear, but 110 in the front. Risk and cost of a rear failure will be less than a front. I do carry an unmounted spare (an old one that will only be good for slow rolling to the nearest place to get a new one). I'll do a similar inspection on one back tire next year, and follow the same process. Regardless of tread or appearance, I don't feel comfortable going over 8 years on front OR rear. Those who follow the 5-6 year rule, sorry I'm going to have to push that out a bit, but you did succeed in motivating me to get them checked, rather than trust dumb luck that the inside still looks good.
burgess001 09/27/09 02:10pm Class A Motorhomes
Tires in great shape, but getting old

I've been off the forum for a while, but have a tire issue to discuss. I have a 5 year old coach with 6 year old tires. I have just rolled over 60,000 miles. The coach is used year around. Almost never sitting more than a month at a time. I have maintained air pressure, both when sitting and driving. I am always well under weight, both on the coach and on the tires. I have scrubbed a few curbs (who hasn't), but no visable scuffs or damage. I have always aired with dry air. I avoid hot weather and only drive between 60 and 65 most of the time. I have begun to notice slight checking (no cracking). My 2.75-70R-22.5 XZA's have excellent tread (probably 60 to 70%). There is very little scuffing or cupping and that is only on the steer tires. I'm really struggling with replacing them. I'm thinking that the manufacturer isn't worried, and that my use pattern should give me an extra year or two. I did a search and caught a few comments on the subject. Maybe a bit more would help me make a good decision.
burgess001 09/26/09 10:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: McDee's Drive Thru?

Hey, I take my pusher through the drive thru all the time. Just gotta hit the "shrink" button as you go through and the "restore" button after you get past the low overhang.
burgess001 04/06/09 10:13am Towing
RE: Aircard - iPhone - Questions

More and more parks are adding free wifi. I have a 3-G aircard and Internet on the Blackberry. I'm hoping that as cellphone features and RV park wifi gets better, we can just drop the aircard.
burgess001 04/05/09 09:35pm Technology Corner
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