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Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Vin and Serial number versus title
The following link provides as good of explanation that I have seen. Thanks.
http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=15697.0
Jack H
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chili's trip
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05/21/13 10:49am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Vin and Serial number versus title
Vehicles are not titled until sold. So the chassis could have been made in 2004, shipped to HR (Monaco?) for a build in 2005 and then delivered to a dealer and sold to a customer in 2006. It's first use would have been in 2006 hence the title year.
I imagine it's quite common for a MH to sit at a dealers for 6 months before being sold.
Not true! The manufacturer has to provide a certificate of origin that the title is based on. My 2005 Bounder was built in September of 04. My 2009 Honda Fit was build in Japan in August of 2008. Normal! Thanks.
Jack H
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chili's trip
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05/21/13 10:26am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Carrying Aux propane tank
I carry one all the time. I fits perfectly in a milk crate in a vented storage compartment.
Me 2.
Thanks for the replies! How is the compartment vented? I don't have a vented compartment in the Bounder and agree venting is a must!
Jack H
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chili's trip
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05/19/13 08:13am |
Class A Motorhomes
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Carrying Aux propane tank
Wondering how you safely carry a 20# propane tank. I plan on using one to supplement the main tank while parked for the summer but am having a problem finding a way to carry while traveling. Thanks.
Jack H
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chili's trip
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05/19/13 06:42am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: steer safe
I have three extra already.All i would have to get is one if need be.I dont think it will be a problem as long as i take it a little at a time.I plan on starting with a half an inch and see if i see any improvment.
The system has 400# of tension when in spec. Do you really think more tension will make a difference?! Good luck!
Jack H
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chili's trip
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04/30/13 03:27pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: steer safe
It seems to me that with longer eye bolts i can slide the fulcrum further back than i will have the extra threads to pull the springs back further.Am i wrong with this theory?
I theory that is correct but what if you over-extend the springs? Those springs were designed at that length for a reason. You may be able to stretch them further, but you have to wonder why they didn't do that at the factory. You also have to think about the eye bolts that you want to use. Are they the cheap Chinese eye bolts found at Home Depot, or are they the hardened steel eye bolts supplied by the factory?
If you stretch the springs past the point of no return, they would be weaker, and it could make the whole unit useless.
Thousands of people have used SteerSafe as designed. Take a good look at the installation instructions and figure out what you are doing wrong.
X2 SteerSafe has been in business over 37 years! They may have got it right!
Jack H
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chili's trip
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04/29/13 05:53pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Question about wheel linners
For future reference I was able to find individual replacements on E-Bay at a great price!
Jack H
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chili's trip
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04/28/13 04:40pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Toilet clog - you wont believe it...
'No good deed goes unpunished!' Good luck!
Jack H
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chili's trip
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04/28/13 04:36pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Toilet bowl seal not holding water
"When my seal stops holding water, I open the valve and spin a toilet bowl brush in the opening. Sure beats spending $30-$40 for a new seal."
X2
Been doing this for years. Put some water proof faucet grease on the round toilet bowl brush and spin!!
X3
walmart has a cheap bowl brush and holder is just the right size. Sea/land has paste for removing deposits. Good luck.
jack h
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chili's trip
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04/24/13 05:10pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Toilet bowl seal not holding water
"When my seal stops holding water, I open the valve and spin a toilet bowl brush in the opening. Sure beats spending $30-$40 for a new seal."
X2
Been doing this for years. Put some water proof faucet grease on the round toilet bowl brush and spin!!
X3
the cheap bowl brush and holder is just the right size. Sea/land has paste for removing deposits. Good luck.
jack h
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chili's trip
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04/24/13 05:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: honda fit automatic as a toad
I looked at the 2013 FIT to use as a toad. The dealer told me the only two Hondas approved for towing behind a motorhome this year were the FIT and the CR-V. I chose the CR-V because the FIT was just a little too small to be my only car.
Here’s a link to the 2013 FIT Owners Manual. 2013 FIT The procedure for towing behind a motor home is on page 159. It states:
Towing Your Vehicle
Your vehicle can be towed behind a motorhome.
Automatic Transmission
Perform the following procedure before towing your vehicle.
1. Check the transmission fluid level. Make sure the fluid level is
between the upper and lower marks.
2. Start the engine.
3. Depress the brake pedal. Move the shift lever through all its
positions.
4. Shift to D and hold for five seconds, then to N. Let the engine
run for three minutes, then turn it off.
5. Release the parking brake.
6. Leave the ignition switch in ACCESSORY Make sure the steering
wheel does not lock.
7. Turn off all the electric devices. Do not use any accessory power
sockets. This can prevent the battery from running down.
Manual Transmission
1. Shift to N.
2. Release the parking brake.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ACCESSORY. Make sure the steering
wheel does not lock.
4. Turn off all the electric devices. Do not use any accessory power
sockets. This can prevent the battery from running down.
An important caution from the 2013 manual and all others:
Severe transmission damage will occur if the vehicle is shifted from R to N and then towed with the drive wheels on the ground.
I have towed an 09 Fit auto for over 25,000 miles + 55,000 on the speedo with no problem. Pat myself on the back every day for buying the Fit!
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chili's trip
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04/22/13 03:47pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Which dinghy tow vehicle is suggested?
On our 2009 CRV, this means after every 8 hours of towing you need to start the vehicle and run through the pre-towing steps again, which consists of running through all the forward gear positions one at a time...stopping in NEUTRAL. It's critical that you NEVER shift from REVERSE to NEUTRAL and then proceed with towing. You MUST shift from DRIVE to NEUTRAL.
You're also not supposed to tow the CRV any faster than 65MPH, which (for us) is fast enough.
Bummer. There are no speed, time, or mileage limits for the smart
car.
I just read an article about problems the smart car has with tracking behind the motorhome. Owners have to use bungee chords to stop steering wheel from oscillating back and forth. Smart car is no longer recommended for towing by Motorhome Mag. Good luck
Jack H
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chili's trip
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04/22/13 03:31pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: pd9260 or pd9245 or????????
I would go with the 60 amp. The 800 watt may take less fuel, but you will have to run it a lot longer and their is a good chance it won't power the 45 amp converter with the batteries run down.
And the less time you run that Harbor Freight 800 watt generator the happier your neighbors will be. I have had the unfortunate experience of being parked near one a couple of times and the racket they produce is unbearable. They do not belong in a campground! Thanks.
Jack H
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chili's trip
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04/20/13 05:58pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fanstatic Vent
I hate to tell you but the old Fantastic Vent is gone and will never return! I just had one fail and dealing with Atwood is not nearly as pleasant. The tech told me the old companies problem was supplying free parts and not following the terms of the warranty. He said Atwood was strictly following the terms of the warranty, period. The only thing they will send free is a switch. I paid $68 for a new motor. Thanks.
Jack H
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chili's trip
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04/04/13 01:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trouble shooting Norcold 1200 with Amish Cooling unit
Ozlander - I was not very clear on this. On this RV, and the Bounder we had before it, the first time we go to fire up either the stove top or fridge under LP - it takes time for the LP to flow thru the pipes again. This is after sitting for several weeks of non usage. (I excercise the LP fridge every time I excercise the coach - about every 4-6 weeks.)
I run the stove top, click/click/click/click for a good 30-45 seconds before the gas flows and it ignites. Then after this, it fires right up.
I usually do the stove top first, before starting the fridge, as it seems to shorten the time. But still the first time it is started after sitting for serval weeks, it takes three sometimes four On/Off/On cycles, before the fridge LP flows. After this, the Auto feature shifts back and forth between LP/AC without any problem with the LP kicking on.
LP detector is also working properly, and I test it before each trip by releaseing LP near it to be sure it beeps at me...
With my vast experience of two RV's:)! - this is my 'normal'.
Thanks,
Smitty
This is not normal. With no leaks, it should be able to sit for weeks and light right up. If you open a valve with the LP shut off at the tank, that is another story. In that situation you will have to purge the air.
Also my 'normal'. Thanks.
Jack H
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chili's trip
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04/01/13 11:50am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Wheel Covers
On my wheels with 19.5" tires are 2 lug nut covers with indentations. These are removable with a lug nut cover removal tool available in many places. Under the removable covers are 'jam' nuts which hold the wheel cover on. Mine are 1-5/8". The rears need an socket, the front can use an end wrench. Good luck.
Jack H
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chili's trip
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03/31/13 10:25pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trouble shooting Norcold 1200 with Amish Cooling unit
The best test is to check on electric. IF it cools on electric the cooling unit is fine. I have experience with a Norcold with the same symptoms that needed a new burner. The flame was about 50% of normal. Good luck!
Jack H
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chili's trip
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03/30/13 08:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trouble shooting Norcold 1200 with Amish Cooling unit
It is possible the tech installing the connection caused a piece of Teflon tape to be entered into the gas line which is restricting the flow to the burner. A lower than spec flame level can cause your symptoms. (on another note the Mr Heater buddy is not designed to work on low pressure LPG.) Good luck!\
Jack H
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chili's trip
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03/30/13 05:35pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fleetwood vs Fleetwood
How many times have we seen positive posts from fellow posters in this forum praising Fantastic Vent and BrakeBuddy for sending them replacement parts for free even when the defective parts were out of warranty. These types of companies will always have my business.
I hate to tell you but the old Fantastic Vent is gone and will never return! I just had one fail and dealing with Atwood is not nearly as pleasant. The tech told me the old companies problem was supplying free parts and not following the terms of the warranty. He said Atwood was following the terms of the warranty, period. The only thing they will send free is a switch. I paid $68 for a new motor. Thanks.
Jack H
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chili's trip
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03/28/13 12:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Fleetwood vs Fleetwood
I own a Fleetwood and have had great service and support from them. I agree with most here that after 5 years you are barking up the wrong tree. If you need this part so bad - go buy it.
Why don't you try to go to Ford, Honda etc and get them to put on a part for free after you have had the car for 5 years - it ain't going to happen!
Given a Bankrupcy - I think Fleetwood did as well as, or better than most, of the other RV compannies with respect to supoprting their customers.
X2
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chili's trip
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03/28/13 12:36pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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