The solution you are describing would be very unsafe in the event of even a fairly minor collision. A crate with a side door is a much better alternative and won't cost any more than the better quality wire panels. Also be sure that you are getting the correct size crate. It just needs to be big enough for the dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down. If it is much larger than that, besides taking up cargo space, it is not offering the dog the level of protection in a crash that it was meant to.
When they are puppies we teach our dogs tricks, not for the sake of the trick but for working on the bond between us and them and to teach them how to take instruction. Once they are old enough for herding instruction we no longer have time for tricks.
Exactly! We teach a couple of silly little things, a paw touch and a nose touch, not for trick's sake, but as a sort of kindergarten way of preparing the brain to learn. Also, years later while under the stress of competition, I can ask the dog for that paw touch, and it becomes a great confidence builder "Hey, I know this, it's easy! Everything is going to be OK"
That said, a couple of our competition exercises can easily be dressed up to look like tricks when we do demos at libraries, senior centers, etc.
One of our exercises is scent discrimination of metal articles. In competition we use a set of metal dumbbells, but every summer when we do a demo for "story hour" at the local library, I substitute soda cans. I will scent a Pepsi can, place it in amongst5 or 6 Coke cans, and tell the kids that Pippin is going to make the right decision ;)
I find the dogs like cross-driving better than the drive away (they can see the handler). The hard part for the dog is making the turn onto the cross-drive and then not fighting that line (they are used to bringing the sheep back); the handler has the harder part in learning how to "see" the line. Try driving with Buddy while walking off to his side (about 20') and then work on his flanks with you off to his side.
Thanks, we will try that. We've been successful with some parallel driving, but Buddy and I still have a lot of arguements along the line of "No! I don't want the sheep, stop trying to fetch them to me!" And his response is "ignore those flank commands because Mom is obviously an idiot who can't see that the sheep are escaping and I must catch their heads and bring them back to her!"
Our trial season is over. There is one more big weekend at the beginning of June that is semi-local (2 hours from here). They are having AHBA trials on Thurs/Fri, AKC A and B course on Sat/Sun, and the following week a USBCHA Novice trial. But, with temperatures rising into the upper 90s here, it's time to hang up the crook for the summer and focus on our other dog activities. Plenty of obedience and agility training to keep us busy.
We will start herding again around Labor Day, probably skip the Fall season to keep training, and bring Buddy out in Intermediate next winter or spring. Trials around here run Oct-Nov, then Feb-May.
Moving up to Intermediate will involve a longer outrun (which we can do), a drive away from the handler's post into a chute, which we are working on but don't quite have, a Hold in a pen (which we can do), and a crossdrive though the center line gates ...that's going to be our biggest struggle.
met another couple walking their dog from the opposite direction. When they saw my cute fluffy little doggy, they dropped their leash(!) and allowed their dog to come zooming up on us. EEEK! Who does that??
It happens for too often. Consider tying a yellow ribbon on your dog's leash. It won't deter idiots who have no clue, but it is a symbol of Dogs In Need of Space.
You mean the dog has to hold the sheep back because they want to go into the pen????:h
I wish our flock was like that when we want them to go into the barn. My wife has had to use all three of her dogs to get the flock into the barn so she can sort off the ewes/mothers of the lambs being weaned.
Manners/obedience are very important for all dogs to learn.
Yes, the final re-pen of the A-course is into the exhaust, and the sheep know that all their pals are back there behind that gate. At many facilities, including the one where these photos were taken, the exhaust gate is also the set-out gate, so the sheep really know that it's there. It's a very heavy draw, so it really does test the dog's ability to hold the stock. It's also where the sheep want to escape to during most of the run, especially when taking them OUT of the pen that is out on the course, especially since they are usually in a straight line with each other. The crossdrive can have problems with this draw too, since in an arena course they are pretty close together. It can be as close as 50 feet or so from the far edge of the panel on the left, as shown here. I think this arena has it more like 60 feet or so, but it's still pretty close!
(Yes, at the Started level the handler is allowed to pass through the center line panels as shown. Next year when we move up, handler has to go directly from the Hold Pen down to the exhaust gate)
It seems like every time a stranger approaches me while I'm out training my dogs, they make some comment along the lines of "yeah, well my mutt is just a pet, he doesn't need all that fancy stuff."
Why is basic obedience vitally important to any dog? Tonight while making dinner, I dropped a bottle of Thyme. It shattered (who knew those things were still made from real glass) and broken glass and dried thyme were all over the kitchen. I was able to call Buddy and Diva away from the mess and put them in another room while cleaning it up. Buddy got one good lick of the thyme, but came when called. Half an hour later, I'm taking a cookie sheet full of bacon out of the oven, and the bacon grease spilled onto my kitchen floor mat. Not only was I able to call both dogs away from bacon, I was able to put them both in a down-stay while I cleaned up the mess. I won't say that Diva isn't in there right now investigating the kitchen floor on a molecular level. But basic obedience got them out two very dangerous situations. True, a less clumsy owner might help a little, too.;)
Just for some eye candy and because I'm really proud, here are a couple of photos of Buddy from a herding trial two weeks ago. We got a career-high 92.5 out of 100 points!
This is called the Lift...where the dog first makes contact with the sheep.
This is the re-pen. The dog has to hold the sheep away from the gate while the handler opens it, then put the sheep away.
Great run under any circumstances, and not being with his everyday handler..wow.
A member of the corgi agility community loaned their dog to a New Zealand handler, and shared some videos of their first few practice runs together...certainly was a steep learning curve for both dog and handler.
Was the fault on the jump after the A-frame? I don't run USDAA and don't know their rules.
Honest Kitchen makes a product similar to what you describe, but dehydrated rather then frozen. That should satisfy the "shelf stable" requirement. They have several different formulas. www.honestkitchen.com
The safest way for a dog to travel in any vehicle is a crate that is properly secured. For a dog as small as a Pom, the easiest way to do this is to get him one of the airline carryon pet carriers. Most have a seatbelt loop that secures the carrier on a seatbelt, and you could use a seatbelt from your sofa, dinette, etc.
If that doesn't work, a hard-sided carrier placed on the floor and secured with bungee cords is safer than any loose pet.
A lot of posts have mentioned all the great veggies she can have without worrying about calories. Too much could lead to more diarrhea, though, so be careful.
If she's finding her own snacks in the yard, I wouldn't let her out there unsupervised.
When you make a pit stop, let her take a short walk to stretch and get fresh air, even if she doesn't have to "go". Then offer her a little water, outside of the car.
You can also offer coconut water, which comes in handy little cartons these days. That's what I use in hot weather when we are traveling or doing heavy training...my dogs love it, and it gives them some extra nutrients. Most, but not all dogs really like it. You can also offer apple slices, which many dogs can't resist.
Or, when you are settled in for the night, put some water in her regular dinner. I have a few friends who do this when traveling, to make sure the dogs get enough water.
Soft crates are not a good choice for a dog with anxiety issues or who might be inclined to try to dig out. You would be better off with an airline crate, but for a Class B, probably a folding wire crate is the best compromise.
How aggressive do the mothers get with a dog like Eve when she has to get up in their faces? The katahdin crosses we work on a regular basis can sometimes get a little nasty, especially with the smaller dogs like corigs and shelties. They will frequently try to head-butt Buddy, and get a nip on the nose for their efforts!
This morning we celebrated Spring Forward by getting up at dawn and driving over the Grapevine to a very large all-breed herding trial.
The sheep were being very difficult, it was windy and everyone was wild. Buddy gave me the run of his life! We placed 5th in a really big trial! What was even better were all of the big-shots coming over to compliment our run, my handling, and to see so many people in awe that such a tiny little corgi could have so much power!
Since turning 7 last November, Buddy has been polishing both his herding and agility skills, proving that seven is the "new five" for dogs! ;)
I use them ringside at shows (in the shade) and in hotels when we travel. Most of the better brands have a clip near the top of the zipper to thwart escape artists.
Never noticed any difference in temperature between those and any other kind of crate.
Dogs' skin was meant to be covered by their coats. Protection from the sun, from plants, insects, and the oils from the coat protect the skin. Keeping a long-coated dog with a thick undercoat brushed regularly to remove loose hair is a kindness. Shaving the dog so his skin is exposed when it never was meant for that is not.