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 > Your search for posts made by 'covered wagon' found 160 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: silicone sealers

So bottom line is if it's gets suspicious or bad enough, you should just remove window or ___ completely, clean it, reseal it...do it right. That is right. You remove the trim ring inside, you will see screws all around to pull the trim ring but, tape the window on the outside so it won't fall out. Chances are it won't fall because of the sticky bytule tape on the mating surface to camper body. When the window and camper body is clean of all caulking hold the window in the opening and mark each side with pencil to the points it moves to and stops (up down, side to side) and then that will tell you when it's centered between the marks so you get a better mating/ mounting all around. As said before some opening rough cuts are sloppy so this helps with centering an even install.
covered wagon 04/15/14 05:43pm Truck Campers
RE: silicone sealers

The plastic insert strip fills with water during storms, causing owners to become concerned about any unsealed screws there might be underneath as there are a lot of them there. Some of us used a paper hole punch and put holes near the bottom at certain locations or every so many feet to help with draining. I did this, but, had so many bugs, nests and dirt, some became clogged and others showed streaks of dirt when they drained. So I sealed each screw with 3-M poly. It eased my mind about this pacific NW weather. Eventually changing the plastic insert since it's one of the first signs of a campers aging when it shrinks or discolors.
covered wagon 04/15/14 10:02am Truck Campers
RE: Truck full of high pressure gas cylinders crashes?

That was cool. Thanks for sharing that with safety tip/ warning.
covered wagon 04/15/14 06:05am Around the Campfire
RE: silicone sealers

Sounds like you guys are completely removing windows to re-seal them? Or am I misreading prior posts? How do you go about maintaining window, door, fan, etc., seems? I removed all my compartment doors, including battery doors and two windows to reseal them. I found that the factory over cut the hole or cut too sloppy, too big in many areas so the surface for mating and sealing with the flange became a very thin/minimal sealing area. After removal I clean all mating surfaces till they are clean, i.e. not showing dirt or residual old sealant on rags or paper towels as you do final cleaning. It's important that you don't touch the surface after final cleaning to avoid oils from your skin.
covered wagon 04/15/14 01:15am Truck Campers
RE: silicone sealers

HMS Beagle, I like your post very much. I have heard of sealing all mating surfaces screw it down but, not quit all the way. Wait till the caulking is cured, then tighten the screws. Sort of like forming your own gasket. But this sometimes requires a strong frame for even pressure or adding more screws. I'm going to stay with the butyl tape because I've had great success, usually doubling it, even triple it in some places and on a warm day it'll squish into a good seal. This means having to add screws to a compartment door frame for 'pressure fit' if they don't already. I like sealants on jack mounts for strength and to seal screws/ bolts. If you don't seal bolts/screws/threads on a jack mount having only perimeter caulk, it'll will act like a funnel. That's the problem I had with my new camper. Screws were not sealed to fiberglass body and leaked everywhere.
covered wagon 04/14/14 07:28pm Truck Campers
RE: silicone sealers

Good hint to buy the tape from heating and air conditioning parts supply houses. Do you have another hint about the best sources for sealant like Vulkem? Vulkem is a caulk that is in the polyuerethane family but with a fiber reinforcement that causes it to have more of a textured surfac. It may be one reason it has lasted so long, perhaps acting like a reinforcement in the caulk. Many types/ brands fall into this 'poly' family or catagory that are usually considered the better types. Labeled under many brand names, they each have their own differing viscosity and behaviors based on proprietary formulas with polyeurathane bases. I tested Vulkem only because I'm in the building industry and was just another brand to try out on hand. It's been on there for over ten years and is still not come loose nor cracked. I used it to seal between metal to plastic, metal to fiberglass. Those seams still are holding well. Vulkem is available at most building supplies and is the least expensive of all the poly type caulks out there, but, does turn a bit off white over time. I don't mind as leaks have been the biggest exasperation in buying my new rv. Vulkem is murder to get off. Any polyeurathane will be so I'm right now leaning toward only using the industrial grade byutle caulk which is easier to redo.
covered wagon 04/14/14 11:02am Truck Campers
RE: silicone sealers

I've had so many leaks to repair that I tried many types. No leaks now after using everything from silicone to the poly's. One place in particular I used only rv type byutle (sp.) type tape/rope caulking without any sealant around the outside. I discovered actual Vulkem lasts a long time. Discovered removing the part, cleaning and caulking between mating surfaces is key since the sun/ weather cannot get under there. Also discovered byutle tape is made in varying degrees of quality and the industrial grade from heating and air conditioning parts supply houses are the stickiest/ best to use. Hardware store, rv store quality is usually just non professional grade by comparison. Last, the byutle tape is loads easier to clean off and redo. Because of this I have left off the perimeter caulk that is so hard to clean off for redoing it later.
covered wagon 04/14/14 10:14am Truck Campers
RE: Use of sawhorses for support

If I lived in California with all those beautiful mountains I'd be looking for a nice piece of property in the Sierras with a home I liked and it be a home for camper too. Isn't a cali thing whatever isn't tied down is fair game. I think I seem to notice people like that when I was near there.
covered wagon 04/13/14 09:21am Truck Campers
RE: Northern Lite to rebuild

covered wagon 04/10/14 08:24am Truck Campers
RE: road to avoid

That would be fun to go on with a ATV. I'd be going slow for safety and the sights.
covered wagon 04/06/14 09:08am Around the Campfire
RE: Nice! but don't need it...

Old-Bisquit would get the contract for my Biz. After all, he sounds particular enough to address many issues. This the correct way of understanding someone else. Me likes it when it's told like it is. Not shmoozed over. He is just making sure that you understand all RAMifications associated with buying used. (intentional pun)
covered wagon 04/01/14 02:24pm Truck Campers
RE: Styrofoam vs fiberglass matt insulation

I would not cut any rigid foam on a table saw unless you wear a respirator. Two of us got sick for a long time from that stuff. Just use a hand saw or a sharp knife. BTW, We don't cut anything loose with rigid foam we cut it to pressure fit. Better built all around this way
covered wagon 03/30/14 12:57pm Truck Campers
RE: Hauling firewood on a front rack

Forested areas and campgrounds are starting to not let folks in that haul in their own firewood due to concerns over tree/forest diseases. We started carrying large plastic bags to collect pine cones at camp for burning. Works great.
covered wagon 03/25/14 02:24pm Truck Campers
RE: TC camping near Tigard, OR

Your welcome anytime.
covered wagon 03/14/14 10:59pm Truck Campers
RE: TC camping near Tigard, OR

You can camp at my place if you want... I'm 15 mins off I-205 in Oregon. Some secluded forest land. PM me if interestested... many others on this and other forums have overnighted here.
covered wagon 03/14/14 06:06pm Truck Campers
RE: Bigfoot Camper is Hurting Tonight!!

X2 they are called collar ties or ceiling joist. Without them a roof is left precariously undone. They need to nail across from rafter to rafter with a minimum of 3-16d galv. box nails into ea. rafter. New roof should be steeper to shed snow load. Steep roofs are stronger too A steeper roof will put more side wind load on the support posts so may not automatically be the best choice either. That's why my engineer calls out for 4-6'' deep holes augered into the ground, footing poured on the bottom, post then inserted and cast in place. 8x8 even 8x10 posts are specified for posts to go down the 4 foot depth cast in place. It all depends on his wind/ seismic lateral load calcs. People... this is why it's important to do it right. Make the engineer do the design.
covered wagon 03/14/14 10:06am Truck Campers
RE: Bigfoot Camper is Hurting Tonight!!

I hate to argue..... the failure is clearly from no collar ties/ joist. The king post style your talking about is for a cathedral roof but the ridge and post support beams need to be load calculated for specific size..... as I can tell they used to small of cross beams to rest all the ridge weight. Esp.when considering snow loads. I'm sorry this happened to you. If you want a real nice looking strong snow load looking structure I would get an engineer and have him calc out for glu-laminated beams and steeper snow shedding effect.
covered wagon 03/13/14 07:41pm Truck Campers
RE: Bigfoot Camper is Hurting Tonight!!

It is one thing to offer a suggestion, and another to hijack a thread with engineering specs and my building is better than your building. I really do not believe this was no ones intent, and certainly not meant to offend or hijack. Wayne Moderator X2 we can all learn from this and I thank the OP for sharing as I know it's important to always think what will improve any situation or thing. 36 years as a carpenter, always looking for ways to improve, folks tell me all the time,'' what a beautiful job'' Comes from always wanting to be educated.
covered wagon 03/13/14 09:01am Truck Campers
RE: Bigfoot Camper is Hurting Tonight!!

X2 they are called collar ties or ceiling joist. Without them a roof is left precariously undone. They need to nail across from rafter to rafter with a minimum of 3-16d galv. box nails into ea. rafter. New roof should be steeper to shed snow load. Steep roofs are stronger too
covered wagon 03/12/14 10:25pm Truck Campers
RE: Rear Ladder Uses?

The racoons like using mine after a mistake of storing food on the roof for cold storage. I was lucky it wasn't a couple of bears.
covered wagon 03/09/14 03:01pm Truck Campers
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