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 > Your search for posts made by 'd-mac1' found 43 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

Yep! Thanks. Mines a copper line to the burner assembly. I wonder if you can replace your rubber line with copper. You wouldn't think rubber is even safe as a propane line!! Surely the RV industry, and its suppliers, are building us quality products? (don't die laughing!)
d-mac1 07/13/16 11:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

Supply lines?? Supplying what? Sorry not sure about your question.
d-mac1 07/13/16 06:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

Well...not sure about my previous question, but I just installed my new board and electrode/igniter. Gonna go start it up and see what happens. It should work fine cuz its warm. I won't have any idea if the problem is resolved until I take it to altitude again.
d-mac1 07/02/16 02:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

I have purchased a new board and a new electrode. I may install both unless I find the electrode aspect super easy to do in the field. Ideally I could just try one at a time to see exactly where the problem is. The shop that prdered me a board had said they order through Dinosaur, but I am skeptical because I didnt see Dinosaur on the board. Should it so state?
d-mac1 06/24/16 02:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

Update - I called Dinosaur Electronics. They can't sell me a board, but I could buy one through one of their distributors. Thank you for the info about them. Heres the good news...they have a tech support group that, even though they can't sell me a board, will help out retail customers such as me! So I talked to one of their guys and he thinks we are on the right track BUT, he said its possible that its simply the ignitor. He said its possible that there is a bad spot in it somewhere which the 2000 volts sent through it to light the flame jumps right through, but the little bit of electrons its sensing from the flame don't make it back through. Why does it only happen at altitude I asked? He said perhaps its because of temperature...not altitude! I was like...AHA!! That makes some sense!! So, I'm in the process of getting a $20 ignitor and if that doesn't fix it, then it must be the board. He said the same thing could be going on with it in its welds from the factory...ie defects that cold temperature exacerbates. Will update again once I have a chance to test out the new ignitor. Thanks again for everyone's responses. It all adds up to getting me going in the right direction. Dmac
d-mac1 06/07/16 04:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

Some Dometic models have no thermocouple, but if yours does, testing is easy- just measure the voltage it puts out in the flame. For the non-integrated igniter boards, the thermocouple needs to put out above 15 mv, with ~25-30 mv being the norm. For the integrated igniter boards, where the spark wire goes right to the main board, there is no thermocouple. Flame sensing is done purely through the electrode and flame itself. Sounds like a tax deductible vacation to the high country is called for :) (I grew up in Colorado). Come on out! Its ALOT more crowded now than it used to be though. At least the front range is. I am thinking my fridge doesn't have a thermocouple. See the pic. http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii295/daveindenver/Toyhauler%20XLR%20300X10/Dometic%20fridge%20ignitor_zpsm9xu48sh.jpg I just went out and turned the fridge on. One click and insta-light. I wish I didn't hafta haul the trailer a few hours to get to altitude to see what its gonna do. Like I said....last time when we were on our way home and I stopped for a while to visit some friends (so I turned off the fridge cuz not level), when I went to leave, it lit right away, but kept clicking the ignitor and eventually quit. Maybe it has nothing to do with altitude and is simply an intermittent problem. Anyone know how to test my board or ignitor? Thanks.
d-mac1 06/06/16 06:30am Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

Some people have reported that leaving the cover off during operation increases the availability of air and helps at altitude. What color is the flame at altitude? I don't know. At 6500' its blue. Assuming same at altitude but I didn't disassemble to look.
d-mac1 06/06/16 06:12am Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

Ok....sounds logical...but I wonder why it happens only at high altitude? At 6500 where I live its fine. When I first bought the trailer it did about the same thing all the time. They put a new board in it. I wonder if there is a way to test the thermocouple?
d-mac1 06/04/16 07:16am Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

Cleaning it didn't fix it. I was at around 9k last weekend and same problem. Here is what it does when trying to run on propane and the problem arises when it tries to light. It'll light, but it will keep sparking the ignitor (even though I can hear it burning). It'll continue to spark the ignitor and after a short while, it'll stop sparking it and I think it then closes the gas valve, so the pilot goes out. Repeat, repeat, quit. I've got the wind covers off again and thinking the probe that sticks into the flame must need to be lowered or something. Its the only thing I can see that senses temperature (ie.. that would tell the unit that the flame is lit...but if this is the problem, why the flame isn't as hot at higher altitude is a bit of a mystery to me. The 'probe' I'm talking about is item 33 on page 9 in the link. Anyone know how close to the tube it is supposed to be? Its in the flame...gets red hot after a while. http://www2.dometic.com/e7a015ae-2585-417d-8f59-4e1c6c8be661.fodoc
d-mac1 06/03/16 12:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Denver to Taos

There is a pretty steep climb through Cimarron Canyon to Eagles Nest and Angel Fire. From there there is another climb to about 9,000' before descending into Taos. Both sections have areas of 35MPH speed limits, narrow shoulders and lower speed turns. We didn't do the Cimarron-Angel Fire section, but glad we didn't go that way cuz we did drive the Angel Fire-Tao section a few times without the trailer. Pretty dang narrow as you said and very windy. It'd suck with a rig of any size...and other drivers are soo impatient! I'm going 5 over, its windy and all, and it wasn't fast enough for a bunch of folk...including a school bus! There are a few pull outs which some slow vehicles can hit (other folks were even slower than us) but there is no way to hit any pullouts with a rig. They are generally too sudden and always too small for anything of size. La Veta is a grind from the east. Keeps going and going and going. Definitely the best route to Tao from south Denver metro or eastern plains. Walsenberg was very windy both times we went through. I'm sure they have some nice days but we didn't experience them.
d-mac1 05/27/16 06:15pm Roads and Routes
RE: Denver to Taos

On a weekday...avoid rush hour...both ways but to Denver in the AM and to Springs in the PM is prolly worse. The speed limit is 70 and if you're running even 75 in the fast lane at rush hour, you better get over! Its a serious racetrack...until it jams up. I have heard that a lot of military people that work in Springs live in Pueblo and that drive might be getting worse, but I wouldn't think it would compare with Denver/Springs. If its not out of your way, take 83 to SE Denver metro (i.e. Parker). Nice n easy drive.
d-mac1 05/20/16 09:09pm Roads and Routes
RE: Denver to Taos

You could consider just taking US 285 all the way down, if you'd like a drive with lots of scenery, and pick up US 64 in to Taos at Tres Piedras. Avoids I-25 from Denver to the Springs, which more and more is bumper to bumper til you get south toward Pueblo. Thanks for the response...I totally agree about I-25...its terrible between the 2 cities. Came up it last Saturday afternoon. Were numerous stops out in the middle of nowhere. Both directions! I didn't tell ya the rest of the story tho...we live SE of Denver metro...we'll take take 83 to the springs...its cake!
d-mac1 05/19/16 09:06pm Roads and Routes
RE: Denver to Taos

Haven't driven US-64 between Raton and Cimarron, but haven driven from Cimarron to Taos many times. There is a pretty steep climb through Cimarron Canyon to Eagles Nest and Angel Fire. From there there is another climb to about 9,000' before descending into Taos. Both sections have areas of 35MPH speed limits, narrow shoulders and lower speed turns. Haven't driven all of the route from US-160 South, but NM-522 from the Colorado border to Taos is a pretty good road. Lots of ups and downs but no really steep sections with tight turns. Great info! Thanks!
d-mac1 05/19/16 06:16pm Roads and Routes
RE: Denver to Taos

Well...I think I have answered my own question. The GPS is taking the shortest/quickest route. Per Google maps, its 4 hrs 8 minutes/267 miles via 160/522 (the way the gps wants to go) and 4 hr 59 min/293 miles via the way I thought would be faster cuz you're on I-25 longer. Looking at the routes highlighted via Google maps, I can see why the one is shorter. Hard to see that on paper and impossible on GPS.
d-mac1 05/19/16 06:14pm Roads and Routes
Denver to Taos

My Garmin Nuvi 465 wants to take us south from Denver and turn west on 160 in Walsenburg through Fort Garland on CO 159 and continue in New Mexico on 522 to Taos. This route will work, but looking at a map, staying on I-25 south past the state line and turning west south of Raton NM on US-64 looks to be faster. Does anyone know why my Nuvi is insisting on going via 159/522? I can't get the nuvi to think I'm in Trinidad to see what it would do from there. I've added Trinidad as a stop, but the gps only shows the leg to there. I've looked on Allstay's app and I don't see any height/weight/width restrictions on US-64, nor do I see any on my trucker atlas, which is a few years old. We are 13'3" tall, 8'wide and have about 6k weight per axle, 22k combined gross (when we're maxed). Thanks.
d-mac1 05/19/16 05:18pm Roads and Routes
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

I think your dealer is speaking through his hat, but there is an air/fuel adjustment that may need to be opened up a bit at high altitude. you need to learn how to adjust it. Also a full PM run on the Fridge. Can you please clarify? How do I adjust it and what is a "PM run on the Fridge"?
d-mac1 05/13/16 03:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

Thanks for all the help guys! Cleaned everything out and found what looked like a small, thicker hair inside the jet, kinda stuck to the tapered portion. It was only about 1/4" long, but I used a pick to dislodge it and it fell out. Started to reinstall and noticed that, in order to have the opening of the gas line/jet assembly lined up with the opening that leads to the burner, it would be angled upwards. I was like hmmm. So I looked at the pics I took before disassembly and sure enough, thats how it was. I rectified the alignment and now it is aiming straight at the opening to the burner. Once I got the air out of the line (I previously installed my new regulator cuz I figured it couldn't hurt) it seems better than before! Its always had a bit of a struggle lighting. Now, it lights on first spark. I've tried it 3x....even after letting it sit for about 1/2 hour. Instant light! I don't know if I've fixed it or even improved it, but it seems like I've at least accomplished the latter.
d-mac1 05/09/16 06:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

Been thinking about this...I was camped there a couple years ago at virtually the same altitude and I didn't have any problems. Makes me wonder now if perhaps a spider didn't spin a web in the tube leading to the jet....or something like that. Gonna go see and will report back. The location of our camp was essentially at junction of Taylor River Road and Rocky Brook Road. A couple years ago, we were on east side of RBR...this time a little further west and just slightly higher. I'd be surprised if the difference was even 50'. If it was the jet's size, it wouldn't have worked right previously. My generator worked great...but the prevailing winds kept blowing the exhaust back onto the trailer and my CO detector kept going off. First time it did that was after I'd tried to go to sleep on 1st night there. It was one thing after another cuz microwave wouldn't work either....a wire got vibrated loose on the drive in. I was going a bit nuts!
d-mac1 05/09/16 03:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

I havent tried to clean out the jets. I could remove it to see if its plugged. What else should I try to clean? And I dont know what you mean about seeing at what point burner goes out. This fridge has no DC option and we're boondocking at that altitude so electric isnt a viable option. I bought a new regulator last Fall (after the trip) but havent tried it at 9750. Thats kinda part of the struggle...ie...I cant duplicate the problem nor test a fix without hauling it somewhere. The dealer said most fridges work at Taylor Park (the 9750 location).
d-mac1 05/09/16 02:16pm Tech Issues
Refrigerator & High Altitude

I've got a Dometic 2852RBX that works ok most of the time, but when I had it at 9,750' last year it kept going out and wouldn't relight. It would try, but I'd come back after being gone for awhile, or awaken in the morning, and the check light would be on. My dealer said its the orifice size that needs to be changed for high altitude and said to talk to Dometic technical support. I called and was not happy with the level of 'support' I was provided. Among some curt responses, I was told they aren't guaranteed to run at over 5,000'...NO further help! I live near Denver....EVERYTHING is above 5,000'!! I continued to try to get some information on what size orifice would make it work at altitude to no avail. Finally the unhelpful phone rep went to ask 'the boss' if it can even be changed on my fridge and when she came back on the phone she told me NO...I can't change the orifice in my unit. I just looked and yes it can be changed. It has a 53 in it now. Since the problem occurs at high altitude, less air pressure, I'm guessing (if this works like a carburetor) means I need less propane, thus a smaller orifice (or jet if you will). Does anyone know if I'm on the right track so that I can keep my fridge running next trip up there? If I could get the right sized orifice, my thoughts are to take it along on a trip and if problems, put it in until returning to lower altitude. In case you are wondering, I was at my dealer because I was guessing the problem was a faulty regulator, but they said thats not the problem if it works fine otherwise. Thanks.
d-mac1 05/09/16 01:30pm Tech Issues
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