PERFECT! I now have some idea what I'm looking for. Looks like at least my big slide is a Lippert so that should crank in/out. Kinda stupid of me....I've been hauling around a crank in the basement forever and not known what its for. And never took the time to try to figure it out.
I'll be out there this weekend figuring out exactly which of these I have and which tools will now be permanently residing in the trailer...hopefully to never be used! Fortunately, if needed, I've got an extra electric drill.
So far (knock on wood!) no issues, but I'm wondering if there is some information somewhere about how to go about getting the slides closed on my trailer if there is some sort of problem. Anyone know?
I have 2 slides. I think the main one (living room) has a hydraulic ram but not sure. Need to know what to look for. The bedroom wardrobe slide has gears of some sort that move it in and out via little zig zaggy metal tracks on the side. Need pics??
I've called the dealer and they didn't help much and said the manufacturer has no info on it. There are no cranks that I've seen.
Dealer said on the hydraulic one, find a valve and open it and let the fluid out/pressure off and push it in. Will that really work? Its pretty dang big! What will prevent it from sliding back out when I'm hauling it down the road?
On the other one, dealer said find the motor and disconnect it and push it in. This seems possible because its a small and I could theoretically re-engage the motor to prevent it from opening back up...presuming I can access the motor.
The other suggestion from dealer was check on the internet, so here I am!
Well...there will be no drain installed on mine. The second line isn't fuel, its vent. The only fuel line goes to fuel pump. It sucks the gas from a tube of some sort that sticks into the gas tank from the top. I guess I'll just hafta try to not have so much in it at end of season. I did put SeaFoam in it.
Thanks. I was looking at it yesterday. For some reason there are 2 fuel lines to the genny. One goes to what appears to be a pump and the other connects to a different place on the generator. I'm going to go get the manual to see if it sheds any light on things.
I'm hoping I can just put a valve on one of the lines. The pump must be what primes the genny.
as to the question above, they are not disconnecting the wiring plug from the TV, they are just turning off the Inverter, so the 5th wheel/TT/whatever's generator can run the A/C and fridge , without trying to charge the trailers battery's. since the 7 pin plug is connected to the TV, the +12 volts would want to fight the Trailers +12 volts from its on board charging system. while in theory it should not hurt anything, with all the on board computers and******on todays vehicles, it can cause electrical problems, weird input signals to the computers, throw an idiot light. all kinds of things.
but anyway the 7 pin connector stays attached, they are just running the Gen to supply 120 volts to the stuff inside the trailer. and truck is suppling the 12 volts for brakes and turn indicators.
I've been afraid to try running genny when plugged into truck. Afraid I'll mess up my truck.
Some say its ok, some say no. How would I go about turning off the inverter...or disconnecting it. Mine's in the cargo compartment behind a panel, so not easily accessed if I'd need to disconnect something from it.
Interesting thread. I don't own a Voltage but figured they were good units based on their looks. Maybe some are, maybe some aren't. Here's why I'm posting in this thread:
We essentially special ordered our trailer at the point right in the middle of a model year changeover. This was an accident cuz we had no idea. Because of this, I ended up talking directly to the factory rep about fabric choices and such because they had no brochures and were in the midst of getting ready to start production of totally redesigned units that summer.
Interesting thing he told me was that, due to the timing of my order I'd get a good unit because the only people working there were the full time employees vs if I'd ordered it at peak production, they'd have lots of new or temporary workers employed. We took delivery of our unit in mid-October...ordered it 7/30.
Still had some issues, but nothing like what some in this thread have related.
You haven't seen it yet because I don't think anyone has done it. I looked into it but there isn't enough clearance between the top of the tire and the bottom of the trailer to allow you to drop the trailer more than an inch or so. 6-8 inches is totally out of the question. On any trailer I've seen anyway.
For some reason they want these things waaay up in the air. I'd love to be able to drop mine about 6" but it ain't gonna happen.
I would double check EVERY aspect before you lower the trailer. I would NOT do it, but then again, I lLIFTED mine via construction of a subframe. Why do we want em high? Clearance is the answer!! If you use them off road like me, you want clearance....not just at the rear, but at the truck bedrails. Stock I only had about 6" at bedrails and it doesn't take much of a dip to eliminate that. Now I've got a little more than 8" and my trailer rides horizontal vs nose high.
If you lower it, will you have clearance at bedrails? How about in the wheel wells? The tires will be up in them if it can be done and might look goofy or rub if you hit a dip in road especially if fully loaded. Will the brake wires need to be tied up or something to keep them from harms way?
Look under it and see if axles are flipped (i.e. if leaf springs are sitting on top of the axles). If they are, you should be able to go back to the 'old' way of axles on top of springs. You gotta be sure your clearances will be ok though and that you won't end up nose high going down the road which would load your rear axle more than the front. You should gain (lose in your case) about height of axle. Call around to some suspension shops in your town...ask your dealer....its not a do it yourself job without a major lift to hold your trailer while its all switched around.
The cheaper simpler fixed has been mentioned numerous times. Get a motorcycle ramp, block the trailer ramp up to desired height and put the m/c ramp on the end of it. Use a camlock type tiedown or something to hold the m/c ramp against back of trailer ramp so it doesn't slide out backwards. Before you do all this, get the bike inside, lower ramp onto blocks and see if you high center bike. Trial and error and you'll know how much block you need and if resulting ramp will still be too steep.
For peace of mind siphon the tanks, as much as you can get out, and use that gas in the car/truck. Put in recommended dose of Seafoam and marine Stabil (yes, that's what I do in toyhauler, boat, ATVs & m/c, use both, always). Refill with fresh gas, non-ethanol if you can get it.
I've got similar deal and did dump in Seafoam last Fall and I run genny once in a while during winter when trailer not being used. I tried siphoning it out and can't get a hose in it. I would prefer to use it in another vehicle vs letting it sit around.
I've contemplated putting a drain of some sort on it so I can drain it, but haven't really tried. I wonder if I could access the fuel line up by the genny and install a T with a shutoff?. Anyone know if it will gravity drain if pull it off the genny and extend downwards?
Does anyone know how a vent hose is connected to a fresh water tank? The dealer says its expoxied in. I think part of my problem is the vent hose is inserted too far into the tank as I can hear it when it goes under water. Once under water, the tank pressurizes.
If there was a fitting I could loosen to retract some of it I think I'd be golden....presuming I could reach it.
Good news on the vent valve! Found a short little metal valve that will thread right into the fitting on the side of the trailer. So I could leave it open just a smidge to let in air if desired...or close tight. The whole thing is 1 3/4" long, so only 1 1/4" sticking out once screwed in. Primo!!
A camping friend of ours has the same problem with their Motorhome. They left the line hanging down and installed a valve to open and close from there. The key is that if they start going up or down mountains they need to stop and open the line so it can adjust.
Dang...I didn't think about the mountains issue. Great point! I live in Colorado and virtually everything is up and down.
Seems there wouldn't be much expansion/contraction issue if full and could keep valve closed, but if partway full, then yes there could be an issue. My problem is mostly when my trailer is full so a valve should work...just gotta remember to open at fill and before use.
If I'm hauling partway full, I could just leave it open. If I could put a vent cap on the side of the trailer that would seal it that would be ideal.
EDIT - I went and looked at it...this might be easy! The vent fitting the dealer installed is a female hose thread....so same as what you connect to when you fill it. Trip to hardware store is in order. Sure there is a male plug of sorts.
When I bought the trailer the fresh water vent hose dropped down out of the underbelly and siphoned out the tank as you drove down the road. It would drop the level by at least 1/3, sometimes more. Haven't used the trailer alot yet, but took it to dealer and they moved the vent hose up to a new opening on the side right beside the fill port. Still siphons, but not as bad.
Talked to dealer recently and they said install a valve of some sort which can close after fill. Anybody do this? Issue for me is the vent hose isn't accessible without climbing in the cargo compartment which isn't too desirable when its loaded and in transit.
Also, the other opening to the vent hose obviously becomes submerged when tank is about 2/3 full. Dealer said can't change that. Seems to me that there should be a way to extract the hose which, it seems to me, is sticking down into the tank.
Thanks for any ideas.
I had a Sunlite popup and loved it! Easy to drive around loaded on truck. Never a problem in wind. Actually rather warm in cold weather with the canvas down over the screens.
Only sold it bacause wife wanted bathroom and a hardside. My 835 Lance Lite weighs 3000 lbs loaded. Sticker says 2200, BEWARE.
Hardside cumbersome driving around.
I actually miss alot about my popup, but do love the hardside also.
Will you leave it on the truck a lot and drive around?
No...mine would reside in my big garage when not out camping and stored off my truck. Problem is getting to be space but I could get it in next to the fiver.
I've heard that a soft side is much cooler than a hardside in summer. This attracts me as does lower profile for wind. Still concerned about a front overhang that would extend past the top of my truck's front windshield. Would like to have a toilet and shower if I'm gonna spend the coin on a camper, but not absolutely required.
Other than the 4wheel campers, have you guys off-roaded with yours? I wouldn't be going extreme, but some places are kinda rough with maybe kinda steep entrance/exits. Any issues with the TC not holding up in conditions like this? The reason for me to get one is to be able to get off the beaten path and if it can't take a little flex, then it isn't for me.
Next question....aluminum frame vs wood. I believe aluminum is lighter and stronger. Right?
Interesting Del. Hope you like your TC! Its a step up for sure.
One thing, if I go cargo trailer route my wife won't come with me so its use is just me n the boyz....or just me if solo trip. I've contemplated a 6'6" tall V nose with some windows and a side door and a rear ramp but not really all fixed up. Could take a generator though and could wire in some 6 volt batteries for LED lighting and some solar panels. Could take portable toilet and take a sun shower. Would still take water jugs. Maybe could take a small portable microwave.
Adv of TC: More comfy (bed, dinette); casette toilet; inside shower; microwave; fridge; fresh water tank; inside range (probably never use oven); screened windows/door; wife will come along sometimes (is that an adv or a disadv? LOL); furnace (I know, could have a heater in CT), don't hafta remove stuff for sleeping
Disadv of TC: Heavy, so not so great on 4x4 roads; might crack if truck flexes too much (N/A if 4wheel camper); limited storage for gear unless in aisle; no way to bring firewood; less mpg than if cargo trailer; expensive; insurance higher; not maeuverable in my garage (gravel floor)
I actually like the idea of the popup, because you don't have the clearance issues with branches and such (plus your CG is a tad lower).
Two possible issues I would have had:
1) I am 6'7" and most popup doors look like they are made for someone who is 4'7"
2) I am not sure about the R factor of the popup walls in 10 degree F temps.
Yep, hafta stoop through the door....have to in my tents...kinda crawl actually cuz they're mountaineering tents.
My intended use of truck camper would be 3 season, not 4. In summer, I'm told that a popup is much cooler than a hardsided unit due to all the ventilation windows in the popup part. Where I go most of the time, it cools off at night, so no A/C required and that would be perfect.
Have any of you guys used a popup in windy weather? I like to go to Utah and often in the spring it is windy...and sometimes cold too. I'd think the popup walls would be adequately durable but noisy in a sandstorm? Anyone have any experiences is strong wind?
Of course, another idea is to convert a cargo trailer to a low cost camping shelter that is one step above a tent. Have considered that option and it has certain advantages and disadvantages. It could haul my dirt bike, other bikes, whatever and then convert to shelter, vs having truck camper with flatbed behind. With cargo trailer, my truck bed is still usable for hauling stuff so waaay more capability there, and much cheaper too. Some days I lean this way, some days back to the truck camper.
This really isn't the best forum if your interested in pop up backcountry type campers.
I think I'm the only one here with a FWC.
Try these: http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/
Great info. Esp expeditionportal. Thanks.
Still looking guys. Any other models not mentioned so far?
The Outfitter Apex 8 for a longbed truck is close...so is the Northstar 850SC. The latter would be my preferred so far if I could get it with an east/west bed. Issue with the Apex is the overhang part is soo tall. So far, nothing is perfect. The Palomino's are priced right but only hold 16 gallons of water...and their website is terrible and provides little in the way of details....and I wonder if they'd hold up.
Ideally, the TC would have 25-30 gallons fresh, water heater, 2nd bed over 6' long (6'6" would be perfect), grey tank, toilet (casette could work) and inside shower (so my wife will come along at least sometimes), microwave, fridge, single sink. Oh....and not weight a ton when dry.
Hallmark Ute is also close, but the look of the 2 windows down low on the passenger side just turns me off, and they are pricey
Any more ideas?
You mention the "air-dam" effect of the long overhead (long cabover). You are correct to be concerned. Although the real concern is cabover flex and degradation to structural integrity over time.
The long cabover is a result of a "north-south" bed. The north south bed is more comfortable and convenient than the shorter cabover with an east-west bed. Personally, I will not ever own another north-south bed.
The good news for you is that you have enough truck. Even though all campers are considerably heavier than their advertised sticker weights, you truck with handle a pop-up or S-M-A-L-L hardside.
Four Wheel Camper makes a great rig. We had one. However, if you are are camping with your DW or significant other, you will eventually want a bath room / toilet.
You should seriously the Northstar 800 or 850, or a Pastime Camper (Mt. Angel, Oregon), or a Hallmark or Outfitter. I think you can still get an east-west bed from all of those manufacturers. It looks like you are in CO. Hallmark and Outfitter are just north of Denver.
Thanks. What happened with your popup with north south bed?
If I was looking for a new light weight camper today I would look at the all new for 2014 SS1200 Palomino. Was looking for a replacement for several years for our old 1200 and we ended buying a used popup Shadow Cruiser because of a lot of the things they built into the new SS1200. It got a bit heaver than the old 1200 but looks like a lot better camper.
I like some of the features of the Palominos. Seems like its a close race between the Palomino and the Northstar. Neither seems perfect. Downside of Palomino is 22 gal water vs 30. No separate supply tank for toilet in Palomino but holds 7 gal black vs 5. That said, 7 gal water gets heavy.
Question...with no grey tank, how do you capture the water? Is there a bag of some sort? Can you run it to a bucket or something? Any pics of your camper?
Did somebody mention an 850SC on a Dodge 2500 longbed?
This was our exact combo several years ago. And this is a picture of it that is still on the Northstar website. The factory had contacted me and asked if they could use the picture.
I've seen that pic! Hahaha. I take it the royalty checks are rolling in?? Beautiful truck by the way.
A concern I have with the 850SC....the overhang of the section with the bed. Seems like it would create a big air dam from wind coming up the windshield. Do you have any pics straight from the side showing how far forward it juts? Plus, seems like since the bed is lengthwise you'd never be able to really get to anything way up toward the front in the under-bed storage.
Did Northstar ever used to make these with the bed sideways?