Resurrecting an old thread -
For those who have done this and ran the fence post/container crossways to the rig, how has it held up on the road? Does it develop a bow...or worse?
If I put mine where its near my sewer drain, it'll hafta be a couple inches below the corroplast to clear a gas line...if I put it behind my rear axle, it could be up against the corroplast.
I prefer up against the corroplast, but wondering if behind the tires will hold up? I'm not fond of the 'spaced-out' option either cuz it would be a wind dam, but it would be in front of the axles. I'm leaning toward behind the axles.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
I'm wondering if the outer bearing was't worn when it was repacked, and then it got worse and disintegrated. I wonder how long it had been on the trailer?
Was it perhaps a day with a decent side wind? Or in the 6k miles since repack, was there any big side wind days? Its the rear wheel, so it would get more sideways pressure than the front one....at least a little more.
I'd double check all my bearings.
Curb your enthusiasm. Be prepared to play hardball.
Thoroughly inspect everything. Don't let them rush you.
Every latch ,switch, outlet ,lock,valve door hatch, latch, window, system. Check it all. If you find a problem later consider it your fault!
I dunno about this. Is everyone's dealer really that bad that they won't fix the stuff you notice when you start using the unit?
I've only bought one trailer, so I don't have alot of experiences to draw upon, but our initial walk through (yes, I had a PDI inspection checklist from someone on here and we were videoing the whole thing) was primarily orientation on how the dang thing works.
I've seen someone say 'make em let ya spend the night in it in the lot before you take it home' the above post says look at every last detail including testing every outlet, every latch, every everything. Why?
Are dealers not fixing problems that aren't noticed before the rig leaves the lot?
As far as turning the fridge on before your trip....totally agree, but I do it with the unit plugged in so I don't use up my propane. And yes....it should be level.
OT, but make sure your batteries are topped up before you go too.
Since it was brought up earlier, and i already had concerns about it... Just guessing from the pictures, but the axles seem to be about 2' further forward on the XLR. A 1,900lb RZR in the back will take a noticeable amount of pin weight away.
Wonder why they put them so far forward?
You'll get a better turning radius with em forward, and a little bit more twitchy when backing up, but yeah, I wish mine were back just a tad for better towability when fully loaded. Only 'weight' reason I can see for em being more forward is to not overload the TV. You know, make the coach's axles carry the weight.
I have a SRW truck and shoulda got a DRW, but I think my trailer is too big, so what I really shoulda done is gotten a smaller trailer. Hindsight!
I too installed stronger axles and stiffer springs. I was advised not to go too stiff or the ride would be too rough when its not loaded heavy. I said I installed...not really...had a shop do it. No wet bolt kit in mine...yet. I may hafta look into that.
I have to open my slide about 4 inches to open the fridge to clear the island when stopped, not a big issue.
Cool! Can ya sit down in it too with the slides in? My point of this is...if you don't hafta open the slides, you won't get em wiped out by a big rig backing in next to you while you eat dinner or relax...or in the middle of the night.
Sure...you can close em back up after you eat dinner or whatever, but I don't hafta worry about it and I think that aspect is an advantage of our trailer. Not everyone will agree.
My trailer is an 06 Raptor and at some point I want to buy new again,but will it be made better,and serve my needs better.Please feel free to ad on to my wish list.
1 Total loaded weight around 15k- 18k.
2 water cap around 100 to 150.Black and gray to match.
3 total max length 40ft.
4 Garage 14ft if enclosed,open-whatever,both styles are needed.
5 I like a three axle ride,esp if on rough roads or sand
6 7k 16in axles, overbuild with air ride suspension
7 Fiberglass sides with as little graphics as possible,Arizona
pinstripping is a PITA.
8 good clearance at rear(i have a 3ft skid plate on mine)
9 4 batts,and quality Inverter/charger 3000w pure sine wave,all receptacles hooked working
10 I like the option of having elec or gas refig,esp if under trees for a week or 2... but make it BIG,or 2nd refrig.
11 5500 genny with 2 hvac or 7k possible,Fuel injected
12 All leds
13 A liveable interior with King bed in main bedroom
14 Nice size bathroom..Nothing fancy,but nice.corian ok,no granite,no glass bowl-sinks, make it last not showy. One bathroom,who wants to clean 2....
15 2 motor landing gear
16 Proven slide system ..I Like bedroom and living room slides..Be able to use bathroom w/o using slide, and able to get to refrig w/o using slide....Not possible in most of new TH....
17 LT tires name brand...
18 Fiberglass roof
Some of that is what I want...some not...so who is WE?
#1 on my list - Quality construction!
Your specs are too heavy for my desires, I only want 2 axles, don't want enormous garage, don't need king sized bed...but I'm not everyone, so there should be options.
I wish I had option of electric fridge when boondocking for if propane runs out.
A high quality solar system that really works would be nice.
Whats advantage of 2 motor landing gear? Glad you didn't put self-level....every one I've seen has too little clearance.
I agree with 2, 6, 7, 8 (I had ours lifted 2" via subframe=awesome), 9 - (6 volts I assume), 11 (ours has 5500 Onan only 1 AC cuz in Colo), 12, 14, 16 (we have no island in ours and can walk through entire trailer with slides in - we have only 1 LR slide and 1 BR slide (wardrobe) = enough, 17 (FOR SURE!!), 18 (sounds good but not sure advantages?)
Something else I want - we have 2 fuel tanks. One for fuel station one dedicated to genny. I have no way to extract fuel from genny tank. Can't siphon..its blocked. 2nd pump would be great.
Some things I DONT want - Granite, fireplace, 2nd fridge, to hafta open slides to get to fridge and to have a place to sit.
Is your problem with the coils from running the fridge when the trailer isn't level?
He also mentioned to NEVER buy dometic circuit boards and confirmed that dinosaur electronics are what he recommends both for customer service and reliability....just an FYI
I have had Dometic fridge problems and 2 new boards. Does the Dinosaur board say Dinosaur on it somewhere? Reason I ask, the shop that ordered my board for me said they only order Dinosaur, but the board they sold me doesn't say it anywhere. Made me suspicious...the guy wasn't the most pleasant to deal with.
How much do your toys weigh and how much does your current load of toys, gear, etc weigh? What is it after adjusting for increased fresh water in the new rigs?
A feature of ours that we like is we can walk through our entire trailer with the slides in, can open the fridge and sit on the couch (we don't have an island in kitchen). This is nice at truck stops when parked with the big rigs. It looks like with the Fuzion you could at least open the fridge.
So...is it working by now? Hopefully!!
Just wanted to say, you don't need to completely FILL the fresh water tank to be able to use water from it. You do need some water in it though...obviously. So you turn the valve to Fill until you've got enough in it, then turn off the flow into the tank, disconnect the hose and turn the valvue back to Use Tank or City Water. THEN go turn on power to the water pump.
Boy...a complete rebuild of the top and one side of your trailer due to structural issues? Hopefully you are still within your warranty period?
I'm not sure about what to do, but it sounds like step 1 would be to get a write up of exactly what all the shop is going to do and have the costs of all the repairs itemized. Then you can compare the repair cost to what you paid and hopefully simply tell them you want a different trailer because yours is totalled.
I'm pretty sure the manufacturer will object to that, at which point I'd go see a lawyer and find out what you should do.
NOTE: I dunno exactly what is going on with the roof, but is it as simple as pulling back the rubber roof and reattaching some of the plywood sheeting to the vehicle's frame? If so, that seems to be quite a ways from a complete rebuild.
Is the shop a Rage'n dealer? If not, I can imagine issues will arise.
We own a 2012 XLR 300X10. Its pretty well made (had just a few things to fix after delivery) but as far as I know, all of em cut corners on stuff. We haul dirtbikes via EZtrack that I installed in the back, but when I had the underbelly down to fix something, I noticed that the tie downs they installed in the back were bolted into the frame of the rig. Seemed pretty secure to me...but mines a 2012 so who knows what they're doing now.
Heres something that annoys me on mine...I have 2 fuel tanks. An 18 gallon one for the generator and a 30 gallon one for toys. Of course, there is a fuel pump on the 30 gallon tank, so I can pump out of it, into the 18 gallon tank and keep my genny running. BUT, I have NO WAY to get fuel out of the generator tank.
I'd be interested to know, if the trailers you're looking at have 2 fuel tanks, can you move fuel both directions or only one like mine. Even if I put some sort of drain on the fuel line to the genny, I think I've got to pump it out as if I were priming my genny cuz the fuel line isn't gravity feed.
Heres another thing....compare pin weight. On mine, I think the axles are just a tad too far forward. The result of this is my pin weight is a little on the light side, so I load it front heavy and its ok even with bikes in it until I totally fill the water and the fuel. Thats when I wish the axles were further back cuz it likes to weave unless I tow it super straight...which gets tiring and is pretty much impossible to do all the time.
NOTE: My fuel tanks are both in the back beginning just in front of the spare which is under the floor of the trailer and in the very back. In front of the fuel tanks is my 100 gallon fresh water tank. As such, it is about 80% behind the rear axle. Once it all gets to sloshing, it wants to wag the rear of the trailer. (mines a 2 axle rig...didn't want a 3rd cuz it drags too bad on turns)
You live somewhat near me apparently....or at least in the same state.
Be sure to get the scoop on how to winterize the rig. And don't forget to do it BEFORE we get a good hard freeze. If you live up high, it might already be pretty close to time.
PS - my tact is blow it out AND suck in RV anti-freeze. One or the other should be adequate. Don't forget the traps, the tanks and the low point drains.
I'm with Rusty. Since I don't know what my converter does I would never leave mine plugged in all the time.
I use a Battery Tender for maintenance in between trips and that includes in the winter. No reason to hassle with removing the batteries. And even with the Tender I don't leave it connected all the time. I'll get it fully charged, leave it on for a few extra days, then disconnect it and unplug it. Repeat in a few weeks after charging some other stuff. No worries!
Or maybe fuel tank size is a factor.
Good point! Mine holds 34 gallons...no additional tank has been added.
In the situation I described, I missed a stop due to a phone call and could see that I'd make the next one, but not by much.
Just fwiw....I don't plan every move, I just have a table of all the stops and whats there, so I can quickly decide what to do/where to go if we wanna stop. Via my table, I don't hafta wait for cell service. And the Allstays app can take a little while to load when driving due to all the data.
I also drive with a Garmin trucker GPS for routing, but it doesn't have exit/fuel info.
Rather than having the dealer take it apart, and then telling me it is the way it is, I'll just do this myself. Won't be a problem remembering to open/close the valves. I'd prefer a through-the-wall vent, like I have seen on some other brands, but the tank is located almost at the very rear of the 5th, between the opposing slides. the only place for a through the wall would be on the rear cap, and not sure how that would go.
Sounds like the best plan...ie do it yourself. A valve will be needed no matter what.
My dealer 'fixed' ours under warranty via running a line forward along the underbelly to a through the wall vent further forward. However, since there is no way to run it all the way UPHILL from the tank to the vent location it had some downhill sections (eg from the tank to the underbelly) then some uphill over a frame piece, etc. Its routing made nice traps like a bathroom sink, but nowhere near as abrupt.
I took it all apart and reran it myself, and cut out most of the extra line so its tighter, but its not perfect...no way it can be unless an angling support were integrated into the trailer just for the line.
The guy who fixed mine told me something...one guy with a Class A was complaining about the same thing. He vented it straight up...Out the roof! Still would get a surge of water out of it occasionally!! It won't siphon tho!
I agree...don't vent it on the back...imagine what all will get sucked in. That seems to be one advantage of where our vent is now...forward of the wheels and up fairly high.
I like to go through my entire route before we leave home and have a list of where all the possible fuel stops will be (MM, restaurant name, truck parking). I've used All Stays Camp and RV for this.
In Allstays, you can also specify what clearance height is important to you and it'll give you a POI on the map showing where low spots are. In fact, there is a whole list of stuff you can have it show. It also works for non-interstate roads.
Someone commented earlier that they've never worried about fuel. My take is that they don't get far off interstates. We took 2 lane highways from northern CA to NV last year and there was a long stretch of no fuel. It was reassuring to know the next one was within range.