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 > Your search for posts made by 'd-mac1' found 65 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Crap! Quite Litterally

A neighbor of ours used that to fix a hole in a plastic sink drain line in sticks and bricks house after they drilled into it. Held for a while (or they knew not to use upstairs BR sink). Unfortunately the new owners had a major problem and had to tear out a wall. Sooo. I would put in new tank. A 'weld' may work, but do you want to risk it failing while on a trip? I dunno what should be used to glue sewer line to tank. If its all abs tho I've used a glue made just for that from Home Depot. Its very fast acting so gotta connect right first time.
d-mac1 07/31/14 06:41pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Crap! Quite Litterally

Heres another theory....the forklift was under the pin while they raised the lift, but it didn't go up in sync with the lift and in the process they pinched the sewer line, causing a break. Clearly they did the damage if it didn't leak going in, but did coming out. Something else....I'd climb up top and see if you see anything up there. Its awfully close to the top of the garage door in that one pic and if they creased the top of your trailer, or broke something loose on the roof, you want to find it before you get lots of water damage from up there.
d-mac1 07/30/14 12:17pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: B&W Companion

I agree with you about penetrating oil...however after a 2000 mile trip to Florida in March, I couldn't get the jaws on mine to open and had to lift the head off the base with the 5er landing gear to unhitch. A call to B&W and I was asked if I ever sprayed the top of the jaw pin heads with penetrating oil. "Nope, I hate the stuff!" I hit the local HD and bought a can of PB blaster and the rest of the trip it unhooked flawlessly. When I got home I removed the pins and cleaned any lubed them good with Dry Graphite Lube. What are 'the top of the jaw pin heads'? I am envisioning something the jaws pivot on? To date, I've just sprayed dry graphite lube on the jaws, but sounds like I need to do more.
d-mac1 07/29/14 09:53pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Air lift recommendations

Firestones on my Dodge with independent schrader valves and lines for each. Simple. I honestly can't imagine adjusting air pressure while driving. Its either the proper amount to level you or its not. I can see letting out air after a trip and airing up before towing, but other than that, is all the extra expense that necessary? The Fords I've seen have virtually no room under the hood in the first place so do you need to put more stuff under there? I know the air pressure I need, so I air em up first via bike pump, hook up and don't mess with it till after the trip. Not a big deal to me to drive around during trip without trailer a little stiff in the rear. If I wanted to, I could always air down and then refill. All you need is a bike pump and a low pressure gauge. Takes 2 minutes.
d-mac1 07/29/14 09:46pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Crap! Quite Litterally

Anyone with any ideas on what may have happened or experience dropping the bottom of these? We are planning to leave for 3 months on August 18th so I'm going to need to get busy in a hurry. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v295/blown96ws6/trailerintheshop_2.jpg It looks like your landing gear are suspended in space? Did they really lift it up in the air balanced on just the tires? Could it have pitched over and something hit the corroplast and busted your black tank or smacked your sewer line and broken the connection? i'd think there would be some evidence of this under the trailer. First, I'd call the shop and tell them what you've got. Second, go dump your black tank and wash it out. I actually dunno if this is a good idea. Could depend upon the problem. Odd that it wasn't leaking in the shop if they did something but maybe there needed to be some sloshing to make it leak. Perhaps you can get enough of the corroplast loosened to peek in there before you loosen it all. Of course, you may not wanna get your nose that close. What a bummer. So, for getting the corroplast down, about all I could figure to do if I was gonna remove all of mine would be to cut it into sections. I didn't need to do that this time as all I needed was access to a small part. I got some really strong, wide tape from Home Depot (Nashua SELECT Flashing Tape) to tape it back together. Can't remember if it was $40 for a roll or $80, but it wasn't cheap when all I wanted was a small bit, but its sticky and durable. On the corroplast, what I did was make a hatch via first marking and then cutting three sides and left the front connected like a hinge. I peeked into my trailer to see where I wanted the hatch....hence my suggestion earlier. Good luck and keep us posted on your findings!
d-mac1 07/29/14 09:08pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: picking up our new 5th wheel, need advice

Do you have a GPS for navigation? That can take a lot of stress off when you are looking for unfamiliar exits and the like. And you can mute the GPS. Jim I found a great app "ALLSTAYS - Camp and RV", of course phone GPS, Garmin GPS unit, and my truck has navigation. I think I might be on navi overload. Plus I work with mapping all day long. So, I probably will get lost. Fortunately it's all interstate for 98% I use that app to plan my routes. But I have a Garmin nuvi trucker gps in my truck which you can put in your height, weight, length, axle weights, etc. It will only take you down routes that you are ok on, but use your brain too. BTW...good one on the Taco as your TV. :-)
d-mac1 07/29/14 08:57pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: B&W Champanion Hitch

In a Dodge, but works great. I agree though...had nothing to do with chucking. My rig chucks when the road's just wrong.
d-mac1 07/29/14 08:51pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: B&W Companion

Theres a zerk? Where? Had mine 3 years, never seen a zerk and the instructions don't say anything about it. I too use a lube plate, but for the kingpin and jaws, I've got a dry graphite (if I remember correctly) spray lube and I don't end up with a greasy, dirty mess. I'll hafta look at the can cuz I forget exactly what the brand is. see page 2, right side, companion installation & maint doc Thanks! Will hafta take a look under there tonight! I swear my maintenance instructions don't say anything about it...perhaps I missed it tho cuz its just in the pic and not the written instructions. The lube I use on the kingpin and jaws is called Slip Plate. Its in a green and yellow spray can and the can says heavy duty dry film graphite coating that won't attract dirt or water. As mentioned previously, I use a teflon disk on top of the hitch plate. The only issue I've had with mine has been that the drawdown and/or U bolts strip after repeated installation and removal of the hitch. And yes, I torque them to spec 40 and 80 lbs respectively. I've taken to going a little light on the torque to see if it helps. Anybody else with this issue?
d-mac1 07/29/14 01:38pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: B&W Companion

Theres a zerk? Where? Had mine 3 years, never seen a zerk and the instructions don't say anything about it. I too use a lube plate, but for the kingpin and jaws, I've got a dry graphite (if I remember correctly) spray lube and I don't end up with a greasy, dirty mess. I'll hafta look at the can cuz I forget exactly what the brand is.
d-mac1 07/29/14 06:48am Fifth-Wheels
RE: picking up our new 5th wheel, need advice

According to what I see, its 12'6" tall. Make sure your route doesn't have anything lower than that. If semi's take your route, you'll be good cuz they're 13'6". It will back up different from a bumper pull, but just be careful. Do you have a brake controller in your truck? With GVWR of 12k per Forest River, I'm going to guess it weighs around 10.5k empty and puts around 1.5k on your truck. Do you have enough truck?
d-mac1 07/28/14 05:29pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Jacking While Stored

First step is to have it on stable ground. Then, I would block the wheels on opposite side and block one on the side you are jacking. Disconnect it from your truck and have the rear stabilizers up.
d-mac1 07/28/14 04:25pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Moab Area Camping

I was in Moab in April and there were a number of boondockers out Dubinky well Good info everyone. Do you remember if the boondockers on Dubinky Well Rd were in rigs similar to mine? Thanks!!
d-mac1 07/28/14 11:49am Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Moab Area Camping

I've been to Horsethief and thinks it's an acceptable "limited" services area. Good to know. For the record, I'd rather boondock, so limited services is certainly ok. What I am looking for are places that can accomodate my rig. 36' long 13'4" tall in the vicinity of Moab. I'd take info on S side of Moab too if someone has it. I've been to Sand Flats alot with my tent and don't think its viable in my rig due to size. Thanks!
d-mac1 07/27/14 12:29pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
Moab Area Camping

I've often seen rigs on the right side of 313 not too long after you crest the switchbacky hill when going south on 313 from 191. Is that area the Lone Mesa group site? Presuming so, are there a couple boondock spots a little further down Dubinky Well road? Could they accomodate a 36' trailer? A little further south on 313 from Lone Mesa is Horsethief Campground. Anybody been there? Sounds like a nice spot. Also, does anyone have any info on Mineral Point Campground which is just a little further down the gravel road past Horsethief? Also, how about Mineral Bottom Campground that appears to be about 4 miles off 313? Lastly, any boondocking spots further out Dubinky Well Road or Spring Canyon Road? Thanks.
d-mac1 07/27/14 11:56am Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Would you run either of these tires?

If I was to choose a poly carcass LT right now it would not be the BFG Commercial TA, as there are to many problems be reported with them at this time. The Firestone Transforce HT might be a better choice in a cheaper poly carcass. However, you are must likely load pretty heavy, so the R250 is an excellent choice. I ran Ribs for 6.5 years and bought R250's this time because of the lower cost per tire. There is no substitute for the benefits of the steel ply carcass of the Rib or R250. Chris You are correct about weight. When loaded, I've got just over 12k on my 2 rear axles. Based on your description of the steel ply carcass, you'd think the R250 would have a higher load capacity than 3,042 lbs. Any concerns on the 1" gap if I upsize? I take my rig off road and just had my axles straightened...
d-mac1 07/27/14 08:00am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Would you run either of these tires?

If it has 6k axles put XPS Ribs or R250's on it quit worrying about tire issues. Those both look like they'd be good too. The XPS Ribs are pretty much through the roof on price at $300 each and while the R250's are cheaper, they're still about 230 each. Anybody ever see a comparison between the R250s and the Commercial T/A All Seasons? I'm leaning toward the latter at this point at $175 each and using one of my current tires as a spare. I'm also in no hurry, so maybe they'll have a coupon at some point or a rebate. Ever see one?
d-mac1 07/26/14 10:23pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Would you run either of these tires?

I wouldn't run them, but not because of the conditions shown in the pics. I wouldn't run them because they are Towmasters. Note in my sig that I run Commercial TA's. Aha! What looks to be a great tire recommendation! Thanks!! http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/tires/bfgoodrich/size/viewProductDetail.do?ra=%2Ftires%2Fbfgoodrich%2Fsize%2FviewProductResults&fl=&pc=38938&ar=85&rd=16&cs=235 If installed, I'll have about 1" gap between the tires. According to a Dexter axle document, that should be ok. You guys agree? I don't plan on running any chains on my trailer.
d-mac1 07/26/14 09:48pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Would you run either of these tires?

2711, so 27th week of 2011. Trailer was bought new Oct 2011.
d-mac1 07/26/14 06:38pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Would you run either of these tires?

Ok...answer is likely to be no on the worn one, but not so clear on the wavy sidewall ones. The one in pic is the worse of the ones I have with waves. The others are less pronounced. When my trailer was new, I tried to get dealer to replace them, they took them to a tire shop who said they're fine. They also said it is common for tires to look like that, so I looked around their service lot and alot of trailers had tires with wavy sidewalls. I didn't like em then and don't like em now...especially in light of a guy I know who just had a blowout for no apparent reason. Question boils down to, is it cosmetic or structural?
d-mac1 07/26/14 05:40pm Fifth-Wheels
Would you run either of these tires?

The first one is my spare. I've got 3 other tires that are similar. The issue is a wave in the sidewall that is usually just in one place on each tire, but if its present, its on both the inside sidewall and the outside sidewall. . These are Towmaster tires and they've been like that since the trailer was new. I stood the tire on a board so you could hopefully see the wave by the letter T. http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii295/daveindenver/Toyhauler%20XLR%20300X10/IMG_2295_zps4cdc9404.jpg The one below is my right front. I just had my axles straightened and am contemplating junking this tire...or using it as a spare. Naturally, it doesn't have a wavy sidewall, but took the brunt of the alignment issue on the outside edge. Would you run it? http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii295/daveindenver/Toyhauler%20XLR%20300X10/IMG_2296_zps50a6c26a.jpg Thanks!
d-mac1 07/26/14 05:05pm Fifth-Wheels
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