With a helper on the ground, I put a straight 2x4 on top of a/c and extended it to the edge of trailer with a level on top and had helper get tape measure to ground and determined height. Do it unloaded.
What year is your truck? I think the higher bedrails on some of the new ones are making the older ones with lower bedrails better for clearance reasons.
4" is not nearly enough clearance so you are on the right path seeking more. I had about 6" and it wasn't enough...now I've got about 8". Much better.
Something to keep in mind. If you are already 13'6" tall, you are at the height of big rigs. Taller and you will possibly have other issues.
I had a subframe constructed under ours which raised it 2" and now we are at 13'3". Before I did that I hit a bridge once and even going slow the damage was done. I DON'T recommend it!
Do you know the actual height of your trailer? Not advertised height, how tall it really is? For off-road and uncertain clearances, I bought some pvc pipe and a couple joints and can assemble a measuring stick for if I'm ever in doubt.
If you haven't already, suggest you get a trucker GPS and trucker atlas and plan your routes with them. I've also got an AllStays app which has clearances in it. I didn't have these when I hit the bridge.
If you never vary from the same route, you probably don't need the above, but if you're going to go to new places, I think you'll appreciate them. Cringing is not good, but I can relate...big time.
Ok hows this one look for F250 crew short box diesel to pull? Looks like I am within tow weight limits, and within pin weight limits dry. Would be over pin weight most likely with gear, but well within axle. Anyone who wouldnt tow this with the 2014 F250 described?
Dry Hitch Weight 1,858 lbs. (843 kg)
Unloaded Vehicle Weight 10,454 lbs. (4,742 kg)
GVWR TBA (TBA)
Cargo Carrying Capacity 3,404 lbs. (1,544 kg)
Exterior Length 38' 0" (11.6 m)
Exterior Height 13' 4" (4.1 m)
Exterior Width 102" (2.6 m)
Fresh Water Capacity 100 gal. (379 L)
Gray Water Capacity 64 gal. (242 L)
Black Water Capacity 32 gal. (121 L)
Awning Size 18 ft.
What trailer is this? Sounds similar to my XLR 300x10 but with a 3rd axle.
Vending what? Didn't you get to see the races? I watched SX on TV like I do every week. One of these times I gotta go, but it will probably be Vegas cuz its lots closer for me...plus its Vegas and the track is intimate.
Went to HF. Got a box of roll pins. Something like 120 for $5. 3/16" fit the hole in the shaft just fine. Thanks mobilefleet!!
They had a sidewalk sale today, so got a set of sockets and notched a 3/8" one. Seems to work fine, but I just barely moved the shaft because I didn't want to undo the spice in the wires, and none of the fuses that I tried stopped power to the slides. 2 of them are marked S/O and I flipped em both....slides still worked. I even flipped off the mains. Aren't the slides usually on fused circuits?
Some good ideas...and I'm going to Harbor Freight in a few minutes, so timely too. Will see if I can find a bunch of roll pins.
I don't want to cut my current jack tool. It works for my rear stabilizer jack and my landing gear. Its too far from trailer body to the shaft, so the hole in the frame and need for one in the body is not going to work too well. Even if the tool were long enough....good luck getting it in place on the shaft without the underbelly open.
I've read where a key thing on actuating any of these by hand is to disconnect the electric leads to the motor so you don't feed power back to the battery, or you could pull the fuse.
I want to turn mine via a ratchet if possible. A screwdriver is a good idea in event don't have ratchet but I think it would take forever.
Was trying to figure out how to manually get my big slide to move. Unfortunately, Forest River didn't put an access hole in the body of the trailer...but they put one in the frame. Nice huh? :h
At the end of the day, it doesn't matter because there is no way to turn the dang motor without being able to get my hands on it because there is no pin in the shaft coming out the end of the motor.:M
Sooo, I cut a hole in the underbelly and that leads me to first question. Have any of you guys created a hatch with screws and a frame of some sort for an underbelly hatch like this or do I just gotta tape it up and if I need in there, tear off the tape?
Second, I imagine I could put a big nail or something through the hole in the shaft in the event I need to manually turn it, but has anyone seen a socket with a big groove in it that could engage the shaft and nail/pin? I'm guessing not and am thinking my only option is to go get a deep socket and grind out a slot.
The shaft with the hole sticks out horizontal, not vertical as it appears in pic.
The tool they gave me to lower the landing gear has the appropriate head, but its too long without a hole in the body of the trailer.
Ideas are welcome!
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I dunno....we are 36' and 13'3". Wish we were a little lower and shorter.
Its my first camper and took some getting used to hauling it around, but my dislike is mostly that it limits where you can camp with it. I'm used to tent camping way off the beaten path. Can't get too close with our rig, but if you've got to spend time in it due to weather, the room and comforts are nice. The garage is nice too as had to repair a clutch on a dirtbike on a recent trip and had a nice clean workspace vs out in the sand, dirt and wind.
Clearance matters if you're going off road with it (at rear and at bedrails). If just pavement, you can get by with less.
I too bought a trucker GPS and a trucker atlas. And I've got an app on my phone which I use to double check clearances. I learned, the hard way, to plan my route ahead of time. Gas stops are at truck stops.
PERFECT! I now have some idea what I'm looking for. Looks like at least my big slide is a Lippert so that should crank in/out. Kinda stupid of me....I've been hauling around a crank in the basement forever and not known what its for. And never took the time to try to figure it out.
I'll be out there this weekend figuring out exactly which of these I have and which tools will now be permanently residing in the trailer...hopefully to never be used! Fortunately, if needed, I've got an extra electric drill.
So far (knock on wood!) no issues, but I'm wondering if there is some information somewhere about how to go about getting the slides closed on my trailer if there is some sort of problem. Anyone know?
I have 2 slides. I think the main one (living room) has a hydraulic ram but not sure. Need to know what to look for. The bedroom wardrobe slide has gears of some sort that move it in and out via little zig zaggy metal tracks on the side. Need pics??
I've called the dealer and they didn't help much and said the manufacturer has no info on it. There are no cranks that I've seen.
Dealer said on the hydraulic one, find a valve and open it and let the fluid out/pressure off and push it in. Will that really work? Its pretty dang big! What will prevent it from sliding back out when I'm hauling it down the road?
On the other one, dealer said find the motor and disconnect it and push it in. This seems possible because its a small and I could theoretically re-engage the motor to prevent it from opening back up...presuming I can access the motor.
The other suggestion from dealer was check on the internet, so here I am!
Well...there will be no drain installed on mine. The second line isn't fuel, its vent. The only fuel line goes to fuel pump. It sucks the gas from a tube of some sort that sticks into the gas tank from the top. I guess I'll just hafta try to not have so much in it at end of season. I did put SeaFoam in it.
Thanks. I was looking at it yesterday. For some reason there are 2 fuel lines to the genny. One goes to what appears to be a pump and the other connects to a different place on the generator. I'm going to go get the manual to see if it sheds any light on things.
I'm hoping I can just put a valve on one of the lines. The pump must be what primes the genny.
as to the question above, they are not disconnecting the wiring plug from the TV, they are just turning off the Inverter, so the 5th wheel/TT/whatever's generator can run the A/C and fridge , without trying to charge the trailers battery's. since the 7 pin plug is connected to the TV, the +12 volts would want to fight the Trailers +12 volts from its on board charging system. while in theory it should not hurt anything, with all the on board computers and******on todays vehicles, it can cause electrical problems, weird input signals to the computers, throw an idiot light. all kinds of things.
but anyway the 7 pin connector stays attached, they are just running the Gen to supply 120 volts to the stuff inside the trailer. and truck is suppling the 12 volts for brakes and turn indicators.
I've been afraid to try running genny when plugged into truck. Afraid I'll mess up my truck.
Some say its ok, some say no. How would I go about turning off the inverter...or disconnecting it. Mine's in the cargo compartment behind a panel, so not easily accessed if I'd need to disconnect something from it.
Interesting thread. I don't own a Voltage but figured they were good units based on their looks. Maybe some are, maybe some aren't. Here's why I'm posting in this thread:
We essentially special ordered our trailer at the point right in the middle of a model year changeover. This was an accident cuz we had no idea. Because of this, I ended up talking directly to the factory rep about fabric choices and such because they had no brochures and were in the midst of getting ready to start production of totally redesigned units that summer.
Interesting thing he told me was that, due to the timing of my order I'd get a good unit because the only people working there were the full time employees vs if I'd ordered it at peak production, they'd have lots of new or temporary workers employed. We took delivery of our unit in mid-October...ordered it 7/30.
Still had some issues, but nothing like what some in this thread have related.
You haven't seen it yet because I don't think anyone has done it. I looked into it but there isn't enough clearance between the top of the tire and the bottom of the trailer to allow you to drop the trailer more than an inch or so. 6-8 inches is totally out of the question. On any trailer I've seen anyway.
For some reason they want these things waaay up in the air. I'd love to be able to drop mine about 6" but it ain't gonna happen.
I would double check EVERY aspect before you lower the trailer. I would NOT do it, but then again, I lLIFTED mine via construction of a subframe. Why do we want em high? Clearance is the answer!! If you use them off road like me, you want clearance....not just at the rear, but at the truck bedrails. Stock I only had about 6" at bedrails and it doesn't take much of a dip to eliminate that. Now I've got a little more than 8" and my trailer rides horizontal vs nose high.
If you lower it, will you have clearance at bedrails? How about in the wheel wells? The tires will be up in them if it can be done and might look goofy or rub if you hit a dip in road especially if fully loaded. Will the brake wires need to be tied up or something to keep them from harms way?
Look under it and see if axles are flipped (i.e. if leaf springs are sitting on top of the axles). If they are, you should be able to go back to the 'old' way of axles on top of springs. You gotta be sure your clearances will be ok though and that you won't end up nose high going down the road which would load your rear axle more than the front. You should gain (lose in your case) about height of axle. Call around to some suspension shops in your town...ask your dealer....its not a do it yourself job without a major lift to hold your trailer while its all switched around.
The cheaper simpler fixed has been mentioned numerous times. Get a motorcycle ramp, block the trailer ramp up to desired height and put the m/c ramp on the end of it. Use a camlock type tiedown or something to hold the m/c ramp against back of trailer ramp so it doesn't slide out backwards. Before you do all this, get the bike inside, lower ramp onto blocks and see if you high center bike. Trial and error and you'll know how much block you need and if resulting ramp will still be too steep.
For peace of mind siphon the tanks, as much as you can get out, and use that gas in the car/truck. Put in recommended dose of Seafoam and marine Stabil (yes, that's what I do in toyhauler, boat, ATVs & m/c, use both, always). Refill with fresh gas, non-ethanol if you can get it.
I've got similar deal and did dump in Seafoam last Fall and I run genny once in a while during winter when trailer not being used. I tried siphoning it out and can't get a hose in it. I would prefer to use it in another vehicle vs letting it sit around.
I've contemplated putting a drain of some sort on it so I can drain it, but haven't really tried. I wonder if I could access the fuel line up by the genny and install a T with a shutoff?. Anyone know if it will gravity drain if pull it off the genny and extend downwards?
Does anyone know how a vent hose is connected to a fresh water tank? The dealer says its expoxied in. I think part of my problem is the vent hose is inserted too far into the tank as I can hear it when it goes under water. Once under water, the tank pressurizes.
If there was a fitting I could loosen to retract some of it I think I'd be golden....presuming I could reach it.
Good news on the vent valve! Found a short little metal valve that will thread right into the fitting on the side of the trailer. So I could leave it open just a smidge to let in air if desired...or close tight. The whole thing is 1 3/4" long, so only 1 1/4" sticking out once screwed in. Primo!!
A camping friend of ours has the same problem with their Motorhome. They left the line hanging down and installed a valve to open and close from there. The key is that if they start going up or down mountains they need to stop and open the line so it can adjust.
Dang...I didn't think about the mountains issue. Great point! I live in Colorado and virtually everything is up and down.
Seems there wouldn't be much expansion/contraction issue if full and could keep valve closed, but if partway full, then yes there could be an issue. My problem is mostly when my trailer is full so a valve should work...just gotta remember to open at fill and before use.
If I'm hauling partway full, I could just leave it open. If I could put a vent cap on the side of the trailer that would seal it that would be ideal.
EDIT - I went and looked at it...this might be easy! The vent fitting the dealer installed is a female hose thread....so same as what you connect to when you fill it. Trip to hardware store is in order. Sure there is a male plug of sorts.
When I bought the trailer the fresh water vent hose dropped down out of the underbelly and siphoned out the tank as you drove down the road. It would drop the level by at least 1/3, sometimes more. Haven't used the trailer alot yet, but took it to dealer and they moved the vent hose up to a new opening on the side right beside the fill port. Still siphons, but not as bad.
Talked to dealer recently and they said install a valve of some sort which can close after fill. Anybody do this? Issue for me is the vent hose isn't accessible without climbing in the cargo compartment which isn't too desirable when its loaded and in transit.
Also, the other opening to the vent hose obviously becomes submerged when tank is about 2/3 full. Dealer said can't change that. Seems to me that there should be a way to extract the hose which, it seems to me, is sticking down into the tank.
Thanks for any ideas.