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 > Your search for posts made by 'dbates' found 81 matches.

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RE: Tow Dolly

I generally us the suggested trailer dolly at home. I'm lucky enough to be able to put my trailer dolly in one of my large bays and if needed use it on the road but does your dolly have a trailer jack? See one Here It allows you to leave the tongue down and just pull the dolly and then you can fold it down so that the tongue can go under the MH. Dave
dbates 07/28/14 09:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1999 Ford V10 Cooling Fan Clutch problem

tderonne, My scangauge wasn't working this week so it can't tell me anything. The engine temperature gauge was in the red but it didn't boil over. I stopped, left the engine running with the heater wide open and poured cool water over the radiator, the temperature dropped and I didn't seem to have any engine problems thereafter except on long steep hills. By shutting down the AC, turning the heater to full hot and running its fan on high we were able to keep the temperature below the red mark thereafter. Dave
dbates 07/24/14 07:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1999 Ford V10 Cooling Fan Clutch problem

Thanks for your quick & good replies. Our Ford dealer doesn’t generally work on V10s; therefore, didn’t know where all of the grease zerks were or that there was an emergency brake fluid reservoir at the rear of the transmission that needs to be checked occasionally plus they have to work on motor homes outside on the ground, therefore, they recommended my mechanic’s shop many years ago for better service. My mechanic has a truck repair shop and works on V10s but has never done a clutch under a motor home chassis; therefore, he was not sure how to price the job until he could check access from the dog house &/or underneath. He has always done a good job for me on other repairs so I’ll have him check access to see if he can do it more reasonable than $1,000. Thanks again Dave
dbates 07/24/14 07:15am Class A Motorhomes
1999 Ford V10 Cooling Fan Clutch problem

My Itasca class “A” engine cooling fan will not engage during long hill climbs. On my current trip to the east coast we had to shut off the AC, turn on the heater and run the heater fan on high to keep the engine from over heating. I'm assuming that it’s a fan clutch problem. My regular Mechanic has no experience working with this problem on a motor home. He says that if he can't get at the clutch from the interior it will cost as much as $1,000 to pull the radiators (chassis & AC) to replace or repair the clutch. Has anyone had personal experience with this problem? If so please advise. Thanks in advance Dave
dbates 07/22/14 07:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Changing Insurance to State Farm, your input requested

I started out with State Farm on my motor home, auto & home owners but after reviewing their policy regarding road service I changed the motor home over to Progressive at about the same annual cost and it has increased VERY little in the 7 years I’ve been with them. Progressive’s road service is about the same as Good Sam’s separate road service but a lot less expensive. State Farm uses their auto policy to cover motor homes and is limited in what they will cover. Progressive has personal possession, campground liability, predetermined total damage for the motor home and some other coverage’s that State Farm does not provide. I did retain State Farm on my auto and home but I’m having problems with them on tornado damage to my home now. I also had tornado damage to my motor home and Progressive was very quick and professional in handling the claim. We’ve noticed in the past that even though our agent is very nice and tries to help us with claims she has virtually no authority or leverage with their adjusters or company. Dave
dbates 07/02/14 09:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Directv-AT&T Merger

Based on the experience I've had with AT&T and what I've seen on this & other forums about Direct it's two bad customer service companies joining to make one very bad customer service company. Forty years ago when I had to moved one requirement was Bell (AT&T) phone service being available as they were the best in Indiana but now their customer service is virtually nonexistent. Dave
dbates 07/01/14 07:03am Technology Corner
RE: help with tire straps

Loose tire straps are not a problem if you make 2 changes in your loading procedure: 1. Don’t pull the toad all the way forward on the dolly. Leave about 1 inch between the front tires and the front wheel stops. 2. Tighten the straps down until the tires squish. When you pull all the way forward the straps will not slide over the tire leaving them a little loose behind the tire. By allowing the 1 inch gap in front of the tire the wheels will roll forward tightening the straps on both sides of the tire. Since I started doing this 9 years & 50,000 miles ago I’ve never had a problem with loose or broken straps. I still check them after the first 50 miles and each time I take a rest stop (about every 2 to 3 hours) but rarely can tighten them any further. Two other things to watch for. A dolly is wider than the toad & in my case a little wider than the MH so watch when you park next to a curb that you don’t rube the lettering off of the curb side dolly wheel. Also make sure that you have plenty of room to pull way from a curb. The sharper you turn away from the curb the more the dolly tongue will swing into the curb causing the dolly to jump the curb. Dave
dbates 06/29/14 08:51pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Towing with a car caddy

In the last 9 years I've pulled my 2004 Vibe almost 50,000 miles on my KarKaddy dolly and the Vibe still has its original front & rear struts and has over 170,000 mile on it. I also think you need to find another mechanic. Dave
dbates 06/28/14 09:00pm Dinghy Towing
RE: How to get bleach into fresh water tank

I put a faucet with a short (12”) hose on a square plastic 5 gallon bucket. I then fill the bucket about 3/4 full of water, add the bleach, set it on a ladder with the hose in the fresh water intake port and turn the valve on. When it drains dry I fill the tank with fresh water. Dave
dbates 06/24/14 07:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: help! I'm new at this... looking for advice.

If it doesn't already have one consider installing a Progressive Industries EMS to protect you from all external electrical hazards. It's very good insurance against expensive damage to your RV electronic equipment. Dave
dbates 06/19/14 07:22am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Power protector

I second all of the above. Progressive Industries has the best units available because of the their quality, historical customer service and fully backed warranty. Do a Google search for the best price for their best units (portable or installed). Dave
dbates 06/19/14 07:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hot water tank

My 98 Winnie Itasca has tne Motoraid water heating system and it's GREAT. On the road or when you get to camp you've got hot water available. The engine cooling lines also go to the bedroom to provide heat there. If I ever have a problem with the lines I'll repair them rather than plug them. Dave
dbates 06/15/14 12:04pm Beginning RVing
RE: Recommended RV Class A Insurance Company

I've had Progressive for over 7 years and have had two claims (two broken windshields and a substantial tornado claim). Both were handled VERY well. I had State Farm but they insure under their auto coverage and Progressive is designed for RVs with much better road service coverage. So far my premiums have stayed about the same as when I first switch over to them. Dave
dbates 06/13/14 10:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Insuring contents

Full time or not Progressive Insurance will insure your contents based on a stated value. How good their rates are will be based on your insurability & what area your being covered in. Dave
dbates 06/03/14 03:05pm Full-time RVing
RE: Dolly recommendations please...

I've been pulling my Vibe on a Demco KarKaddy SS for 9 years & almost 50,000 miles. It's a very good dolly and Demco's customer service is GREAT. When I needed a tire even though they sell tires they advised that I could get one locally and they upgraded the surge brakes for free. They are fully galvanized so you will never have to worry about rust, have hydraulic with break-a-way brakes. The SS model folds down to almost ½ size for storage and the maximum tongue weight with any toad is 200 #. The comment above about having problems with keeping the straps on is not a problem if it is strapped down properly (not as Demco recommends). If you end up getting a dolly send me a “personal message” and I’ll message you back with that procedure. Dave
dbates 05/28/14 06:00am Dinghy Towing
RE: 2000 Adventurer on Ford V10 chassis

I don't know if the 2000 is much different that the 1999 but I have a 1998 Winnebago Itasca over a 1999 Ford V10 that I bought used. It has 102,000 miles on it of which I’ve put almost 50,000. Bruce may be right about the roof problem as I had the roof pop loose the full length of the driver’s side. I was able to get it back in place then sealed it down with Eterabond. I found out later that these seam joints need to be periodically checked and maintained just like everything else. My tires are 225/70R19.5. Other than tornado damage I’ve only had normal maintenance with both the chassis and body. Dave
dbates 05/20/14 10:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Insurance question

As I understand it, in Indiana the only thing an auto policy will cover on an attached trailer is liability (damages to a third party). For the trailer to be covered for collision, comprehensive, etc. it must have its own policy. Dave
dbates 05/15/14 07:53am Beginning RVing
RE: tire pressure ?

Clivk HERE for Michelin's current "Tire Guide". It will tell you everything you need to know about maintaining MH tires, how to weigh the MH to establish proper tire presure, etc. Dave
dbates 05/06/14 06:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow dolly question

I’ve pulled a Demco KarKddy SS for the past 9 years and 50,000 miles in all of the states marked below with no problems. Yes 4 down is a little faster and easier but I love my Vibe and it can’t be pulled 4 down. Some things to remember: 1. When I first started using the dolly I strapped the toad down as Demco recommended pulling it all the way forward to the front wheel stop then strapped it down but I found that the straps came loose & I even had one strap come all of the way off. I then realized that the straps didn’t slide over the wheel as they are tightened so they remain a little loose behind the wheels and when you started pulling the Toad slip back leaving the straps loose on both sides of the wheel. I now pull the toad all of the way forward then back up about one inch. I strap it down until the tires squish. As the straps tighten the wheels roll forward and the strap tension equalizes in both the front and rear of the wheel. Since I started doing this I’ve never had a problem with a loose strap. I still check them within 50 miles of start and again each time I stop (about every 2 to 3 hours) but I’ve never found a strap loose enough to cause a problem since. I talked to Demco about this procedure & they have no problem with it but have chosen not to change the guidelines in their manual. 2. If your dolly is a little wider than the RV watch those right curbs when parking. I ground the lettering off of the right dolly tire before I realized this. 3. Make sure that you allow plenty of front end room when parking along a curb. If you have to turn too sharply when pulling out the rear of the RV swings in the opposite direction pulling the dolly into the curb causing the dolly wheels to scrap or roll over the curb. Dave
dbates 04/27/14 10:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Spare tire question

My 98 Itasca came with the same hoist as Sooboy suggested and it works quite well. It's easy to raise and lower but as I get older it's a bear to get the tire (with rim) under and out from under the MH. The tire also extends a little below the frame and I’ve scraped the bottom of the hoist a couple of time coming out of service stations with high curb angles. Dave
dbates 04/26/14 07:34am Class A Motorhomes
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