I have already cleared the history & cookies from Safari & turned off the phone to reset it several times... Any other suggestions? Thanks!
Could try posting the question on the RVPR forum. They are usually good about helping out with IT issues.
As an admin on RVPR, I can say that no one has posted anything on our forum about this issue yet. If it continues please report it and be as explicit as to computer type, browser, etc, as you can.
RVParkReviews now has an app also. Works even better than their web site. IMHO.
There are both Android and iOS apps now available. There are still a few bugs and some features that need to be added, but feedback from users is appreciated.
There simply are some parks out there where trying to find anything good to say would be like trying to write a children's story. "The poo was coming out of the hole but it was good, friendly poo that no one should be afraid of"
Just to be clear, when RVParkReviews asks a reviewer to add some additional information about a park, there is no requirement that the added information is favorable. I've personally handled quite a few reviews where the revised review comes back with additional negative information which would make someone even less likely to stay there.
All that is asked is that your review not pertain to a single circumstance that is not likely to occur for most other RVers. For example, people often, and rightly so, get upset if a park loses their reservation. And the definitely should be able to say that, but if they did eventually stay at the park, why not tell people something else about it. What did you like? What could have been better?
We're sorry if some people feel this requirement is an impossible burden, but we believe the overall quality of the site is improved by it. If you choose not to participate because of it, that's your right.
I too have had problems getting my review posted on rvreviews.com
Most recently the review involved a campsite in vermont. While getting ready to cook dinner outside sewer connection in campsite started bubbling out sewage. We were not connected at this time? They came to pump out the line in 1 hour. When I posted this review it was not posted until I candy coated the review, I had to add the grass was Green and the dog walking area was Nice. I have also noticed when looking at other campground reviews many are years old. 2014, 2015.
You were asked to revise your review so that your bad experience wasn't the entirety of the review. RVParkReviews has a policy that all reviews must contain at least some information that is useful to others in determining if the park is suitable for them. Most other people will not have had your bad experience with the sewer connection; if that were the entirety of your review it would not have any relevance to them. You were permitted to tell others about your negative experience, you were asked to do is to not have it be all you said about this park.
My laptop drops the WiFi every other day or so and I cannot seem to find a fix for it. I could be surfing and the signal will drop but it will not let me reconnect so I have to reboot to get it connected again. Iobit's Drivebooster says my drivers are up to date so I've just dealt with it by rebooting.//I like Win10 and have no desire to revert back to 7.
About half the time when this happens to me I can go to Network and Sharing Center/Change Adapter settings and then right click on the wifi adapter to DISABLE it. If it disables then I immediately right click again and ENABLE it. When it restarts the wifi connection will be fine.
A third to a half the time, however, I either can't get to the Change Adapter settings screen or the adapter won't respond to the Disable command. When either of these happens I still have to reboot.
If you're having difficulty upgrading to Windows 10 using the icon on your computer, it has helped quite a few people I know to download the update to a USB stick and update from it.
Here's a link to the official Microsoft site for doing that: Windows 10 download DON'T use the Update Now link; scroll down a bit till you come to the link for making a USB or DVD
Follow the instructions for downloading the software and then execute the update from your copy. Depending on how you use it, you can either do a standard upgrade where your files are retained or you can do a "clean install".
As a comment for the OP, I also had a Toshiba Satellite that I updated to Windows 10. I found it critically important to update the drivers before doing so using the ones provided on the Toshiba website. Without those drivers I had BSOD (blue screen of death) issues and had to revert the computer back to Windows 8.1. Once I had installed the drivers, the update went without problem.
Problem with them, every repeater hop cuts the bandwidth in half.
May I have a more detailed explanation of your post, please. Inquiring minds want to know why a repeater cuts band width in half. Does that apply to all repeaters? What about over air to wire repeaters?
WiFi communicates one way at a time. For example.
Device to Access Point
Access Point to Device.
Now, when you add a repeater.
Device to Repeater
Repeater to Access Point
Access Point to Repeater
Repeater to Access Point.
Now, add another repeater.
Device to Repeater 1
Repeater 1 to Repeater 2
Repeater 2 to Access point
Access point to repeater 2
Repeater 2 to Repeater 1
Repeater 1 to Device.
Now, the 2nd one, you may not think it halved it again, but in reality, it does. Add another hop, and you are halved again.
This isn't necessarily so if you use a repeater/amplifier that has two separate radios. In my WiFiRanger setup I have two separate routers, each with its own radio. One is only involved in connecting to the AP, the other with communicating with devices on my network. There still is some bandwidth loss, but it isn't as large as you indicated.
What's interesting about these new FCC-approved amplifiers is that they're quite smart. They don't provide excess amplification if it's not needed. Which means, that if you're in a relatively high signal area you may not notice too much change to signal strength when you add the amplifier. With my old Wilson Sleek I used to see ~10-20 dBm of increased signal strength regardless of what it was without the device. That's not the case with these newer devices.
I also have a Dell with an i7-6700HQ processor. In the Dell lineup it's a 7559 and came with 16GB of RAM.
However, what really makes it a screamer is that it has two hard drives, a 128MB SSD and a 1TB HDD. All programs, including Windows 10 are installed on the SSD so the boot process is amazingly fast.
I strongly urge anyone who wants to turbocharge your computer to get an SSD to replace their boot drive. It's well worth it.
Op here, been a while since I did this setup and I have forgotten stuff (old age related ?).
Ivylog said slimline, ok which selection ?
03:Slimline-3 doesn't seem to be working..... Help ?
If you're using a SWM setup the correct selection would be SWM3, I believe.
Holy Heck!!!!! Thank you for this post!!! I just upgraded to the S6 and this stuff was driving me crazy. The auto replace was driving me nuts and not even remotely close to what I said or typed. It was very persistent in its suggestions too. I can now keep my sanity.
For several years I've been using the Swiftykey keyboard both in my old S4 and now in my S7 rather than the Samsung one. Swiftkey is predictive like the standard one but the key difference is that it "learns" from things you have written so it knows not only the words you use, it even learns your phraseology. For example, if you are typing several messages to different people that are similar, it will suggest words from the ones you have already written. If you wanted a second email to be the same as the first it pretty much would offer you the words before you typed them.
Just bought an ASUS laptop - inside it has C: Samsung 500gb SSD drive, like normal, but also a second SSD as an internal storage drive. OS is Win7 Pro.
It should show as D: drive ... and the CD as E: drive
I can find the second SSD in Device manager, but no D: drive icon
The D: drive on the menu shows it as the CD/DVD - internal
Can anyone explain how to make the storage SSD drive a D: drive (or an E: drive?) and let me access it.
Please, step x step as if one says "just activate it", I would have already done it if I knew how.
I've been trying to get the place I bought it to respond, but it keeps resisting the question ... and pushing a run-around, sorta.
I would be very careful what you do here. I have seen laptops that use the SSD to host the OS for performance reasons. If that were the case, you could easily brick your laptop.
I have a Dell 7559 laptop that has a 128 GB SSD C: drive for the operating system and a 1 TB HDD D; drive for data, photos, etc. If you've ever had computer with two hard drives this is exactly the same configuration. There's nothing unusual about how it is setup. From Windows Setup you can control what sorts of files get stored on the D: drive. I could put program files on D: but there's no reason to do so at this time.
There's no reason to worry about "bricking" this computer any more so than any other one.