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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1150 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Trimark keyless troubleshooting?

Don't know about Winne, but MOST motorhomes have a spring loaded pins(2) on the hinge side of the entry door. One pin will be 12 volt positive and the other negative when the FOB or wall switch is activated. Better to check for 12 volt THERE first before you take the door apart. If you have 12 volts at those pins then yes, the signal either not getting to the motor or the motor is bad. Doug
dougrainer 11/29/15 09:21am Tech Issues
RE: Furnace Ignition Question

The burner was removed, cleaned and blown out with compressed air. While the burner was out the inside of the "combustion chamber" was vacuumed out. The connector for the electrodes and gas solenoid at the control board was cleaned. While starting the little bulb on the control board flickers when the electrode sparks. The electrode was replaced with a new one with the correct gap. Before reinstalling the electrode the high voltage wire was connected to it and spark was verified. This is an older furnace (1993). A review of the schematic there does not appear to be a separate sensor that detects the flame. The burner jet has not yet been cleaned. But you can get slight gas smell when it first starts. The burner Jet(orifice) should ALWAYS be removed and checked and cleaned out when accessing the burner. If a microscopic debris is in the gas valve/orifice area. it can be "pushed" outward and restrict the LP flow. You need to do this before proceeding further. Doug
dougrainer 11/27/15 01:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Furnace Ignition Question

No, it should light on the first of the 3 attempts. From your description, the Spark electrode is probably NOT at the correct gap. Doug
dougrainer 11/27/15 09:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cold air return

If you have a standard LP furnace it is the wood louver cover on the inside cabinet that is where the furnace is located. If you have an Aqua Hot system it is the complete cabinet that recirculates the air thru the heat exchangers. If you are asking about the Roof top Heat Pumps, it is the same return vents in the roof on the drivers side that the filters are in they use the same return as the AC cool mode. There is NO Furnace/Aqua Hot filter system on a Newmar or 99% of RV's. Doug
dougrainer 11/27/15 09:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sidewall Problems/"Gassing"/Checking of Paint

The problem was every coach manufactured with panels from the company. The product was manufactured and installed by RV manufacturers. After coaches were made the problem started and companies were just as surprisdd as anyone else. The panel manufacturer went back to the drawing board and came up with what they thoughg was a fix. It was tested and came out good. Problem it was not tested long enough and same problem happened again only it took a little longer. RV manufacturers were caught off guard fust like everyone else. I understand the problem was/is finally fixed beginning about 2009. All of my exterior siding has been changed so I hope it is fixed. Problem is ,were RV companies to fix the problem they were caught with, they all would probably go broke, close the doors and go home. Not sure they have any options so they do nothing. Repainting will not fix it, it will just come back. I don't think anyone knows how to fix so buyer are made to "suck it up and live with it. This problem is EXACTLY why National RV went out of business. National DID do the right thing and were replacing sidewalls expecting their Wall supplier to cover the costs. The Wall supplier filed Bankruptcy, went out of business and left National in the hole financially. National could not recover and shut down. Doug
dougrainer 11/26/15 06:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: furnace flare ups..

Doug, How does one get inside the firebox? I have the NT-30SP You remove the furnace, take the side plenum fan blade covers off. You then remove the glass access plate and THAT will allow the burner to pull out. You then turn the furnace casing over and over while blowing compressed air thru either the burner access or exhaust to remove all the rust and sediment build up. You also remove the steel gas inlet with the orifice from the rear. That opens up all the holes in the casing to blow things out. Inspect the casing. If you find rust thru or corrosion thru, throw away the furnace and buy a new one. Not worth repairing a 25 year old furnace. Doug
dougrainer 11/25/15 08:38pm Tech Issues
RE: NDA1402 error 13

It's interesting to hear the different problems people have had with their Dometic and Norcold absorption refrigerators over the past 25 years. Both manufacturers continually shoot themselves in the foot with their poor performing, poor quality, high priced, high maintenance equipment, forcing the customer to go to house hold type refrigerators where there is virtually no problem and nearly 100 % satisfaction with performance and dependability. And after all of these years of substandard performance in every way they are still in business and selling their junk to the RV industry who in turn shoves their junk out the door to the consumer. Once again, 25 years at least of this, and still in business. Just AMAZING. What is amazing is someone like YOU, that has no basis for your post. I have a Basis. We have at least 2 residentials to be repaired under warranty a month and we are a medium size Dealership. READ Consumer Reports and see their ratings for Residential refers. They ALL have problems and failures, just like RV refers. The OP's problem, was, he was trying to do the work with NO knowledge or understanding of the Dometic refer and controls. He was able to muddle thru and finally get his refer repaired. BUT NOT, because there was a BIG problem, just his inexperience and trying to do the work himself. Doug
dougrainer 11/25/15 11:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: furnace flare ups..

If you have the Suburban NT series with the round access glass hole for the burner, odds are the cast iron burner is DIRTY and clogged. You probably need the burner pulled and cleaned. I use a standard Hack Saw blade to clean the slits in the burner and then blow it out. Doug
dougrainer 11/25/15 05:38am Tech Issues
RE: Intellitec Bi-Directional Isolator fried

The Intellitec Relay is rated at 100 amps DC current. Doug The coach builder did not use an Intellitec relay but used the Trombetta instead. What I would like to find out is how much power the Intellitec control board is rated for. Curious, WHERE did you get the idea to call that solenoid a Trombetta? That term is almost unheard of. The ONLY place I have heard and used that term was on LCI hydraulic leveling/stabilizing systems. It can mean a solenoid OR a Valve. The Intellitec BI directional (BIRD) is usually on a 15 or 20 amp DC fuse. ALL the BIRD does is react to various signals and send a 12 volt signal to a solenoid. It is NOT designed to sustain any HI current. There are various BIRD Intellitec systems. Can you post a pic of your particular system? Doug
dougrainer 11/24/15 07:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold Refrigerater N821F electrical?

If you have isolated the GFCI trip to the refer, the ONLY thing that will cause that is a defective Heating Element. It will work on a non GFCI circuit, but the slight imbalance between Neutral and Hot will cause a GFCI to trip. Replace the 120 element. Doug
dougrainer 11/24/15 07:21am Tech Issues

Take the line loose from the exit side of the LP regulator. Open the valve and see if the LP stops. do not do this longer than 20 or 30 seconds. Is the tank FULL? Tiffin had a problem with certain side mounted LP tanks a few years ago (do not think 2010 was in this) that the Pick up tube would pick up liquid. The ONLY fix was to replace the tank. This problem caused the LP regulators to freeze up and leak/fail. Also, the rubber line coming from the LP regulator, does it have a LOOP or a U---P-Trap? If so, you could have petroleum residue causing your problem. Doug
dougrainer 11/24/15 07:17am Class A Motorhomes

Tiffin has not used an LP detector auto shut off in 20 years. The LP detector in your Tiffin will not be the cause. If other LP appliances work(DO THEY?), then a kinked line is the probable cause. Some of the LP lines in a slideout are hard to see and odds are that LP line is kinked. If the appliance is NOT in a slide out, then we need to know if other LP appliances work----Water Heater is the best thing to check. Doug
dougrainer 11/24/15 05:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Propane Furnace Exhaust Fumes Inside Coach

@DOUGRAINER Doug, if the genset is running smoothly while it's under load, can I assume that it will be ok? Assuming I maintain it going forward. @ DUCTAPE Hadn't considered the main engine having problems with stale gas. When I test drove it, it was very smooth, and when I was in the coach and it was idling, I couldn't even tell it was running. NO, It should run smoothly on NO load and with Load. Doug
dougrainer 11/23/15 04:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Intellitec Bi-Directional Isolator fried

The Intellitec Relay is rated at 100 amps DC current. Doug
dougrainer 11/23/15 04:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Propane Tank Coupling is stuck!

The POL fitting between the LP regulator and the Tank valve IS LEFT HANDED THREAD. Never has changed. Now DOT Portable 20/30/40 pound tanks, THAT OPD fitting IS Right Hand thread. The Output fitting on the LP regulator is also RH thread. The POL going INTO the LP regulator is RH thread also. The OP according to previous posts has a Class A motorhome which has a ASME tank which will have LH threads. Doug
dougrainer 11/23/15 01:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Propane Furnace Exhaust Fumes Inside Coach

@ Doug Grainer Thanks Doug for the input, that was my feeling about the carb on the Genset, I'll take replacement of the carb up with them. The reason I stated NEW carb is simple. Onan does not have carb rebuild kits and have NOT since the mid 90's. Onan had to make their carbs California compliant and because of that, they cannot be tampered with. They have plastic lock plugs on the carbs to prevent adjustment or tinkering with them. A GOOD Tech can remove the plastic locks and rebuild the carb, BUT, that voids the Onan warranty. So, if under warranty, I would demand a new carb. Out of warranty, you can rebuild them as long as you take care to not destroy the gaskets and o rings. Doug
dougrainer 11/23/15 09:06am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Duh - Problem with new Suburban furnace not Atwood

Another thing to try if all else checks ok is a hard boot by pulling the blade fuse then reinserting... This NEVER fixes a Piezo board RV appliance ignition system. Doug I find that rather curious since it caused my Atwood Excaliber to recover from no-start immediately (after all else had failed....) and kept us from freezing to death during the sub-freezing temp night - So shout NEVER if it keeps you warm.....BTW, this has zero to do with the 'piezo effect' or piezo igniter of your BBQ grill. It was a coincidence that it functioned after you did that. The Ignition modules on Furnace/Water Heaters/refers are NOT like a PC that you reboot. Take this advice from someone who has worked on and FIXED thousands of Module board appliances for 36 years. You could "reboot" by just killing the battery 12 volt power instead of pulling the fuse. Doug
dougrainer 11/23/15 05:38am Tech Issues
RE: Broken water heater plug

While removing the plastic plug to drain my water heater, the head of the old plug broke off, leaving most of the threads in the hole. Does anyone have a suggestion how to remove the old plug stub so I can install a new brass plug? Access is difficult (as seems to be the preferred design with RV water heaters). Thanks. Pipe nipple extractor is the tool to use. SEE HERE Once you have the plug out, do not use a brass plug.. Buy a new set of plastic plugs.. They are cheap and are much more forgiving than brass in this application.. There IS a reason the manufacturer uses these plugs and it is not to be a cheapskate.. It is to protect the tank threads.. Then do not tighten the plugs so tight.. You are over tightening the plug. I screw in by hand then using a 3/8 ratchet with extension and a socket to fit the plug I just tighten slightly past my hand tight. Water will not squirt out this way, it may seep a bit but will not squirt or leak much if at all. If it does, just turn off the pressure and SLIGHTLY tighten but don't over do it. You do not need to screw in the whole way and bury the threads.. The nylon will dis-form and lose it's shape causing it to swell on the INSIDE of the tank (where you DON'T want it to swell). That is what breaks them off when trying to remove the plug. Pipe threads are tapered, the further in you tighten, the wider the plug gets.. You also do not need any Teflon or pipe dope on these plugs, the nylon will act on its own as a sealant. You DO need tape or pipe dope. Take it from someone who has been repairing RV's for 36 years. Doug Doug, I guess I will have to take a photo of my tank/plug.. I DO NOT use any thread sealant on my tank plug. It does not leak nor have I broken a plug off. Works for me. The use of a sealant or teflon will allow you to screw the plug in further than it should be.. Sealants reduce the friction and makes the plug go too far in. Nylon is a much softer material than PVC or other plastic plugs, it deforms easier also.. That allows the plug to fit the threads and seal without any sealant. Now if you are using brass, that is another ball of wax.. Brass plugs will gall the aluminum threads.. The result is leaks and possibly a stuck brass plug.. Try it without sealant, I will bet you will never have a problem breaking a plug off again.. There is no need to crank in a nylon plug either.. Just needs hand tight then a slight more with a wrench.. By the way, many antique engines like "Hit and Miss" or even "Model Ts" used spark plugs which are 1/2" pipe thread.. You DO NOT USE THREAD SEALANTS ON THOSE EITHER and they seal as long as someone didn't damage the threads.. You do not have to take any photo. Take it from someone who has seen more plastic plug leaks in 6 months than you will ever experience. There is NOTHING wrong with using thread sealer and I have installed thread sealer on hundreds of plastic plugs over the years for people that think like you and then they have a leak and then pay ME to fix it. Usually, they start to leak AFTER the water heater has reached its hot temp and then they find that slow drip. To bring up a Engine plug analogy is also ridiculous. Doug
dougrainer 11/22/15 07:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Duh - Problem with new Suburban furnace not Atwood

Another thing to try if all else checks ok is a hard boot by pulling the blade fuse then reinserting... This NEVER fixes a Piezo board RV appliance ignition system. Doug
dougrainer 11/22/15 07:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Propane Tank problem

If the LP place was telling the truth----Another "GUY" came to pick up his tank and stated that yours was his. WHERE IS THE 2ND TANK THAT THE OTHER GUY SUPPOSEDLY DROPPED OFF????????????? Doug
dougrainer 11/22/15 01:17pm Tech Issues
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