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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1291 matches.

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RE: Direct TV and on board antenna

As another requested, need Receiver model. MOST Direct TV SD receivers have 3 coax fittings on the back 1. IN FROM SAT 2. OUT TO TV 3. OFF AIR INPUT from local Antenna There is a button on the remote that switches from SAT signal to the Off air coax input OR you can just turn the Sat receiver OFF and this defaults to the OFF air antenna connection. What year model RV. I have NEVER seen a TV that did not have RCA inputs even on cheap TV's in the RV's. Doug
dougrainer 05/24/15 03:04pm Tech Issues
RE: F53 AC high side pressure (2008 - 134a) at 90F

Thanks, Most website charts show 45-55 low side, and mine is at 50. The high goes from 275 at idle to 320 when held at about 2000 rpm for a while. An old (R-12 era) GM manual says to take the readings at 2000 rpm but I haven't seen that elsewhere. My Chart is from the largest supplier of Dash AC systems for RV's--Evans Tempcon. Doug
dougrainer 05/23/15 05:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Black water guage

Flush the tank 4 or 5 times by filling full then dumping. Then after the tank is empty leave the valve OPEN and the dump cap off for 24 hours. The tank will then show empty. IF NOT, then the probes are corroded so bad they need replaced. Doug-
dougrainer 05/23/15 05:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 AC high side pressure (2008 - 134a) at 90F

You never charge a system based on low side. IF you charge you watch the hi side with the lo side as a help. Doug A/C System Operating Pressures for 134a systems Ambient Air Temp (F) Entering Condenser Suction Pressure (PSIG) @ Evaporator Outlet Discharge Pressure (PSIG) @ Compressor Outlet 50-----5-15--- 75-125 60---- 5-15--- 100-150 70---- 10-20---125-175 80---- 10-20-- 150-225 90---- 15-25-- 175-250 100--- 15-25---200-275 110--- 15-30-- 225-325
dougrainer 05/23/15 01:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold N611 trouble cooling on propane

Brand new and the FIRST thing to check is the LP pressure. PERIOD. Doug
dougrainer 05/23/15 07:45am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold N611 trouble cooling on propane

I had a similar issue, where it would work perfect on AC but not at all on LP. The dealer said that the cooling unit needed to be replaced. I was skeptical, because it worked fine on AC, but it was replaced under warranty (aftermarket), so I didn't complain. They replaced a GOOD cooling unit. A cooling unit does NOT CARE what the Heat source is to cool. If your dealer replaced for no cool on LP but cooled on 120, your concern about who cares it was under warranty, just means what are they going to misdiagnosis and charge you for after the warranty is up. Replacing the Cooling Unit in this case would have been $1000 plus mistake if not under warranty. I would NOT trust that Dealer to work on my RV. Doug
dougrainer 05/23/15 07:44am Tech Issues
RE: Help what is this?

Freon has nothing to do with the defrosters----defrosters run off of the heater and the only relationship to the a/c is they both use the same blower usually--but not always. Just curious, then why does the air-condition compressor come on when using the defroster? (on cars) MM. The compressor is used to dehumidify the air for defrosting both my cars and my class A gasser. But what do I know Autos use the compressor. A Lot of Motorhomes also, but not all. What I found curious was his statement about 2 blower motors. UNLESS you have an overhead defroster system the SAME motor operates all the dash AC systems. The Motorhomes I have worked on, the same blower motor operates the Defroster and dash system. Some motorhomes(Newmar's and some Monaco's were 2 ) had an overhead blower system separate from the dash AC/defroster system, to help blow air DOWN from the overhead. Doug
dougrainer 05/23/15 07:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dometic Fridge not cooling well

UPDATE::: After running for several days with no change in temp, yesterday morning the freezer was at 0 and the fridge at 30. No idea what changed. I wonder if there was a "bubble" in the coolant that suddenly cleared. Whatever it was all is well now and that's what counts. Could easily be an intermittent fan. I will ask again. Does your refer have a top vent or two side vents? One normal one at the base and one at the upper edge of the refer. The Dometic does't seem to have fans and it's a top vented model...not in a slide. Right now it's sitting in the barn with a temp of 91 degrees. Ambient temp has not change significantly over the past few days. Cooling units do not get a "bubble". I asked for the model number. Why is it so hard for people on these forums to NOT answer a simple request and they ask for help?????????? Most Dometic side by sides DO HAVE cooling fans. THAT is why the model number request was made. Doug
dougrainer 05/23/15 07:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: nwh jacks

1. To RAISE the jacks takes no power, just release the Joystick 2. I think you meant EXTEND the jacks. You RAISE the motorhome, you EXTEND the jacks to do that. 3. If you get a click on your system, either your large battery cable is dead(no 12 volts) or the solenoid is bad. There is only 1 solenoid on your HWH pump that has wires. The 2 LARGE posts---jump across and that will bypass the solenoid and supply power direct to the pump motor. IF the battery power is good the pump motor should run, if NOT, then the Pump electric motor is probably bad. The MAIN thing is- to verify that you have GOOD 12 volt supply power to that solenoid from the battery. Doug
dougrainer 05/23/15 07:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Why don't all electrical plugs work on inverter only??

It does NOT mean how large the Inverter is. It is the amount of Receptacles and appliances connected thru the Inverter. Most have 50 amp RV's that have large Inverters. The downstream receptacles and appliances are run thru 15 and 20 amp breakers from the Main 50 amp Breaker panel. If you have an Inverter, the power FROM the 50 amp breaker panel will have a 30 amp breaker going TO the Input of the Inverter. Large Inverters will have 2- 30 amp feed circuits. The limitation of the circuits is the output Breaker/s AT the Inverter. So, if you ran ALL wall plugs and the Microwave AND the Residential refer thru the Inverter and then plugged in a Coffee maker and a Skillet and also ran some ceramic 120 heaters in cold weather, you would easily overload the Breakers at the Inverter and trip them, OR the branch breakers (15/20) back at the Main Breaker panel. So, the OEM's wisely decided to power just certain wall receptacles. IF the Inverter is 2500 or larger, they will have a Bedroom/bath/kitchen receptacles powered by the Inverter and also have receptacles in those areas supplied directly from the Main 50 amp breaker panel, so you can run higher amp appliances without overloading the Inverter and Inverter breakers. The plain fact is--- most RV'ers are just plain Ignorant of power usage and draws on their RV's. So, the OEM's have to do that work for them. They design the limitations to prevent problems in use that could burn or overload circuits. They install EMS systems and branch circuit Inverters and such. It is a shame that OEM's do not label receptacles that are Inverter powered. Some do, but most do not. Doug
dougrainer 05/23/15 07:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 13.5 Coleman in Bedroom. Not Impressed

Chris where is the thermostat tube and how do I identify. The unit is 35ft and I thought a secong isolated unit in the bedroom would be great to help keep up. The primary is the main ducted unit with a wall thermostat and it freezes the entire living area. I would think one 13.5 would freeze a small bedroom, however, nope it does not. the thermostat and controls are integrated in the 13.5. EXACTLY!! My 11,000 btu dual hose kicks butt in AZ heat in my bedroom of my house. Single hose units should be banned as energy hogs. WTF were the engineers thinking creating negative pressure in the room and sucking in hot air? RV AC units ONLY RECYCLE THE EXISTING AIR IN THE AREA/RV. They do NOT suck in air and create negative pressure. NEITHER do window or HOME units. Doug
dougrainer 05/22/15 06:04am Tech Issues
RE: Tankless water heater

Isn't this a duplicate of a few days ago? If not, search this Forum for `tankless' and read on. This is not a duplicate. Since our dealer will not discuss removing the tankless heater, I'm trying to figure out if this is even an option for us regarding costs and hassle. I'm hoping that those persons who had it removed, could give us a ballpark figure of what it costs them. Thanks Shirley What do you mean he will not discuss it?? If you mean you want HIM to replace at NO CHARGE, then I understand why he won't discuss it. You can replace with a conventional Water Heater, but that means spending about $1000. Tankless Water Heaters need continuous operation and doing "navy" type showers makes them run hot and cold. Make sure ALL the air is out of your water system. Check the outside shower and flush a few gallons of water thru it to make sure the air is out of its lines. ANY small air pocket anywhere in the fresh water system will cause Tankless to run fickle. Doug
dougrainer 05/22/15 06:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Do in-tank fuel pumps give any warning of impending failure/

Yes, they do. The symptoms are this. You drive and the Vehicle is at running temp. You shut it off and try to start. It turns over but does NOT fire up. After an hour or so, you attempt to start the vehicle and it fires right up. Odds are it is a defective in tank fuel pump. Doug
dougrainer 05/21/15 10:33am Tech Issues
RE: Water Heater drain plug head broke off..Remove Advice

I carry a large straight-flute screw extractor, purchased at Sears. I've only used it twice, once on my rig and once to help a fellow camper. http://i3.tinypic.com/4c233bn.jpg Tom You can you his type or go to Lowes or Home Depot and go to the lawn irrigation aisle and they sell a "T" HANDLE plug extraction tool. Works great. Click this link. Doug http://www.smarthome.com/orbit-irrigation-26076-3-piece-nipple-extractor-combo-kit.html?src=Froogle&gclid=CKDLzOug08UCFYQAaQod6lQAaA
dougrainer 05/21/15 10:30am Tech Issues
RE: Dometic Fridge not cooling well

Your type of lack of cooling will not be the Thermister. At this point if you have no yellow leakage at the burner area, you hot wire BOTH 120 heat elements for 24 hours. That will operate the unit at full cooling. IF after 24 hours the water in the refer is not below 36 degrees the cooling unit is bad. The side by side Dometics require the rear coil 12 volt fans to operate. But, fans not operating will not cause your high temps in the refer. Really need you to post model number of refer and do you get any error codes. Doug
dougrainer 05/21/15 10:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Slide out failure

MOST systems like you have, they have a auto reset 12 volt circuit breaker supplying the Pump assbly. IF the battery is low or weak, the Power Converter has a hard time supplying the needed amperage to run the Pump motor under load. FIND the 12 volt breaker/fuse that supplies your pump. Odds are it is weak, or you can bypass it to test if it IS weak or is tripping due to 12 volt power supply problems. LCI(Lippert) systems are especially prone to this type problem. Doug
dougrainer 05/21/15 06:18am Tech Issues
RE: Propane leak test

Thanks. If I understand the manometer will show the drop in pressure but not the volume rate of leakage. Anyway it sounds like there will always be some leaking due to the valves on the furnace and HW heater. I guess I should be able to see those leaks with soap testing. I will give it another try. I was thinking that the leak was at the regulator. Chris should have clarified his remarks about inherent leakage. NO, the valves and solenoids will NOT really leak, but will over months. This type leakage is not seen or soapy water seen. I stand by the, "if your red indicator comes on within 24 hours, you have a serious leak that needs found and fixed". A common leak on older RV's IF you have an Atwood DSI water heater is the gas Valve solenoid. You put leak detector on the orifice and see if it bubbles after a few minutes. That type leakage is NOT normal and the Gas valve must be replaced. Doug
dougrainer 05/20/15 10:38am Tech Issues
RE: Propane leak test

It should not go red in 24 hours. That indicates there is a leak IN THE SYSTEM, not at the tank area. You need the system Manometer tested by a professional. Doug
dougrainer 05/20/15 06:04am Tech Issues
RE: Electric steps

While activating the door switch, WHACK the motor with a hammer. You may have to do this 4 or 5 times. IF the motor activates, the motor is bad, replace it. Lube the step linkages when replacing the motor. With the motor removed the step assbly should freely retract and extend using one finger. If not lube until it does. Doug
dougrainer 05/20/15 06:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold refrigerator

Might be just a difference in 'wording' Doug-----"24 hours to reach operating temp" (Freezer 0*F/Food Section 38*F) Soundguy----"have it sufficiently cool within 4 hours" (Freezer cold/Food Section cool) I don't buy the fridge at full operating temps within 4-6 hrs. but can feel cooling difference in freezer/food section within that time Until recently, I had been going off the sensor temp that Norcolds will give when you're in the 'secret menu' .. Sometimes it will show 17* in 4 hours or 17* in 16 hours, not even in hotter weather sometimes. I recently installed thermometers and found out that when the sensor is at 17*, the freezer is sufficiently cold, but the fridge is not... Conversely, after driving for two hours, the sensor might say 31* while the food is only a degree or two warmer. Now I just ignore my sensors, don't worry about them and enjoy camping. I still fuss over my black tank sensors though :) Someday I'll learn to ignore those too. I assume you have the 1200 series. That is no secret. It is the diagnostics mode. The sensor is ONLY for the lower section and gives the Evaporator fin temp, NOT the refer temp. The evap fin temp will be 10 degrees colder than the refer temp. There is NO sensor for the freezer. Doug
dougrainer 05/19/15 02:09pm Tech Issues
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