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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1457 matches.

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RE: Thetford Tecma not holding water

There is also the classic problem where the toilet knife valve is not making a good seal. Needs silicone spray and a good scrubbing itself and around where it goes into. This is a MACERATOR Toilet. There is NO knife valve. Doug
dougrainer 12/09/16 08:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic zone 1 dead

Do all units show up in the thermostat control? If so, cableing is most likely ok. If furnace is missing in control display, suspect disconnected rj11 control cable that diasy chains between each component; front AC, rear AC, front heatpump, rear heatpump, front furnace, rear furnace... Just our experience...After service tech forgot to plug-in one of the rj11 cables... A Cable disconnected will NOT cause a loss of only the furnace on the display. It will cause a LOSS of all functions(display) for that Roof AC unit. There are only 2 cables on a 2-roof top system. 1. Cable from Zone 1 to the wall Tstat 2. Cable from Zone 1 to Zone 2 3. Cable from Zone 2 to Zone 3 IF you have 3 roof top units
dougrainer 12/09/16 01:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dometic zone 1 dead

Are you stating that Zone 1, ALL the various mode operations are displayed? When you toggle thru Fan/COOL/HP/Furnace, ALL will show in the display? Only the furnace uses 12 volts to run. ALL other Zone 1 operations requires 120 volts to the Front AC Zone 1. There are 2 BLUE wires at the Zone 1 control board. You should be able to drop the return AC grill from inside and find those 2 wires. They should have 12 volts on 1 wire and 12 volts on BOTH when furnace is called for. IF you have NO 12 volts on either wire, then as Chris suggested, either the CB on the furnace is tripped or the FUSE for the Furnace is tripped/Blown. There may be a separate fuse for just the front Furnace. Usually, since you removed that fuse and the tstat went DEAD, that means there may be another fuse for the front furnace. The POWER for the Zone 2 control board and tstat display comes from the FRONT Zone 1 control board. BUT, the FIRST thing is to verify those 2 blue wires for power. Doug Your one question about lock out. The furnace will attempt 3 time to light and if you have run out of LP will indeed shut down. But, all you do is have the tstat call for another furnace cycle and it will respond. BUT, you may have to cycle that furnace 4 or more times(12 ignition cycles or more) to bleed the system of "air" since you ran it out of LP. Not really air, but lack of LP. Doug
dougrainer 12/09/16 11:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Thetford Tecma not holding water

The Toilet has a 2 year warranty. Does the water drain out while camped or while driving? On the back of the toilet, you will see a "Y" hose that is connected to the 2 fill/flush nozzles. Then you will see the LARGE 1.5 inch discharge hose (the J loop). The TOP of that loop MUST be even with the flush nozzles. If NOT, then you have the siphon effect draining the toilet bowl. Look at the link. pics I-1 and I-2 are not correct for your install. Figure A is close. Look at item 6 page 10 to see how high that hose should be. Doug http://www.thetford.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/38996A-TecmaSilenceRV-Eng.pdf
dougrainer 12/09/16 10:18am Tech Issues
RE: Furnace "lockout"?

Okay, so, thank you everyone for the help. What I ended up doing was rebuilding it myself with supplied parts from PDX RV LLC for about $60. http://pdxrvwholesale.com/products/atwood-hydroflame-furnace-model-8940-dc-iii-tune-up-kit I replaced the sail switch, limit switch, burner assembly and orfice, and electrode. The furnace works great but now when the RV gets to temperature and the furnace shuts down, obviously the room temp will lower and the furnace will not turn back on. The only way I can get it to turn on is either turn the breaker off for a few seconds and turn it back on or turn the thermostat off for a few minutes then turn it back on. Again, any help would be great. Thanks again in advance. Your current problem means a new Board is needed. Doug
dougrainer 12/09/16 08:27am Tech Issues
RE: Stairs won't go all the way back in

WD40 is not a lubricant. Water Displacing formula 40 Developed to dry out electrical connections and as a rust penetrant. Also works very well as starting fuid. Glad to know this. I have freed up sticking step mechanisms for 30 years using WD40(probably over 500 steps). Gee, did not know it did not work:h You USE WD40 or even better Liquid Wrench to free up the rusted pivots on the linkages and step arm pivots. THEN you use a white grease type lube and clean off the excess. When steps do what the OP has, it is the rusted pivot points. Electric steps, when you disconnect the motor linkage, the steps should freely drop down and with 1 finger you can push fully retracted. IF you cannot, then use the WD40 to free up the linkages and then lube. Doug
dougrainer 12/09/16 06:29am Tech Issues
RE: Can't fill fresh tank

Put handle in NORMAL City water position. Do you have City water at the faucets inside? This is the first thing to do. Maybe the fill inside water filter screen is clogged if you get no City Water inside. Also, this system may also have a Check Valve that is stuck. Doug
dougrainer 12/08/16 05:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sniff test doesn't work

Just put a pint of PINE SOL in the Black tank. That will allow the Pine Sol odor up its vent pipe. Doug
dougrainer 12/08/16 12:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Interesting tank fill problem

1. That is why it is nice to have states(Texas is one) that regulate LP and Natural gas. ALL aspects of LP from install/Service/dispensing. 2. Also, just goes to show that calling the OEM maker does NOT always yield correct information 3. It is rare for that gasket to fall out. Do you have the yellow cap installed that seals that filler neck? If not, you need to get one. Doug
dougrainer 12/08/16 10:37am Tech Issues
RE: HWH motor runs, but no pressure

I have talked to HWH, but the system is beyond me other than those simple tests. Foretravel is close and they are a HWH Master Service Center. I'm going to turn it over to them, but I've heard (not from HWH) the entire ass'y has to be replaced. I am looking for some ammo if just the pump can be replaced. HWH uses a motor. On the end of the motor is a rectangular shaft drive pin that spins the manifold system pump. IF you remove the u shaped metal tube that is connected to the shuttle valve and run the pump, if NO fluid comes out (will be 3000 psi), then the odds are that shaft is broken. I do not know if HWH sells just that shaft or you have to buy the motor(which includes that shaft key). If you remove the motor, it will be evident if that shaft key is broken or the spring is bad that puts pressure on that shaft key to engage it. Doug The motor is sold separately. But, it depends on the brand/model motor. Some have been discontinued, even on a 7 year old motorhome. It was a vendor supply problem. Some older systems the motor cannot be purchased and you have to buy the Motor/Reservoir system. You transfer all the upper manifolds to the new pump/reservoir. Doug This link shows what the part looks like. http://www.hwhcorp.com/mr303311.pdf this link is for the Motor/Pump assblies. http://www.hwhcorp.com/mr30.html
dougrainer 12/08/16 06:11am Tech Issues
RE: Removing Sharp Carousel Micro/convection

Doug, Maybe you could school the folks at Tiffin. I helped a co-worker remove the below Sharp R1875 Convection Microwave from his Phaeton. It died and he bought an identical replacement unit at Home Depot. Tiffin only used the 2 mounting points on the top of the microwave's case in the upper cabinet. No additional screws were added to the top of the case by Tiffin. http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/fb/fb6517ca-0432-4473-ae45-778b62f25beb_1000.jpg height=480 width=480 When my Sharp R820BK died I opted to chase down the internal fuse instead of wholesale replacement like my co-worker did. Mine had a blown internal fuse, plus I did not want to give it up because it's a grilling convection microwave. The R1875 doesn't grill. I WORK at a Tiffin dealer and have for 37 years. I have removed hundreds of Tiffin M/w ovens and ALL had those extra screws. I just cannot get how people with NO REAL knowledge of how items are installed in RV's want to continue to argue points that they are not knowledgeable on. IF you had the model that has the BOLTS(not screws) that come DOWN from a cabinet on top, then the M/W will NOT have those extra screws. The OP does NOT have that style mount. Doug
dougrainer 12/07/16 06:11am Tech Issues
RE: Furnace "lockout"?

When this happens, the FIRST thing you do is verify the LP system is ON and your range burners(all 3 or 4) are ON and have good flames. Then start the furnace, Go outside to the outside vent. When you hear the Ignition start to click, you should smell LP out of the exhaust vent IF the system is allowing LP to flow. IF you smell LP, then your burner is probably dirty or has insect nests. Also, possibly the Spark electrode is not gapped correctly for a hot spark. IF you smell NO LP, then you will need to pull the furnace to determine if it is a gas valve or a electrical issue at the valve or the LP burner orifice is clogged. Doug
dougrainer 12/06/16 10:54am Tech Issues
RE: Camping World RV Sales

Without a firm commitment and non refundable money, I doubt CW would spend upwards of $1000 transporting a motorhome to a distant location just for a "look see". Doug
dougrainer 12/06/16 10:49am Camping World RV Sales
RE: Motorized Sun Shade

My "source" is MCD. I called them as I have never heard of that operation and wanted to know if they built a special model. NO, they stated and they explained just what I posted. I deal with both MCD and Auto-Motion which are the 2 major makers of RV electric shades. Doug Just talked to MCD again. They stated that in theory the shade may FULLY retract, but the design is to make sure that small internal spring keeps the shade from falling down and usually just raises a few inches instead of full retraction. Thanks, again, for the info. I will call them today to ask about their false claims. Tom BTW. This feature is only on the "GOLD" series. Doug
dougrainer 12/06/16 09:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Removing Sharp Carousel Micro/convection

Sharp install manual. -There is a large metal mounting bracket that is secured to the wall. -Inside the upper cabinet above the microwave there should be 2 screws near the front of the microwave - one on the left and one on the right. See step 8 on page 7 of the install manual. The microwave's case is set up for 2 mounting points to the upper cabinet, although, as others have stated, there may be additional screws that are securing the microwave's case to the upper cabinet as well. -Removing the grills from the bottom of the microwave will reveal 2 long bolts that go up at a diagonal that hold the microwave to the metal mounting bracket. While this is true for HOME installs, it does NOT take into account the extra screws RV makers MUST install to keep the Microwave from vibrating and breaking the wall mount off the wall. EVERY over the counter RV M/W I have removed and reinstalled in the past 20 years(HUNDREDS if not Thousands) ALL have those extra screws that will not be listed in the M/W install manual. Doug
dougrainer 12/06/16 06:17am Tech Issues
RE: Motorized Sun Shade

I figured you had the MCD. But, when you stated it would retract when the motor failed, that got me thinking. Yes, there is a spring in the MCD Gold Series. But, IF the motor fails the shade will do nothing. It will NOT retract and it will NOT fall down because of an extra spring. You then have to use a clothes pin or something to pin it up if it fails where it blocks your vision. But, as I stated, it will NOT auto retract when the motor fails. Doug So, you are saying that this statement, "The Solar/Night Shade in your vehicle is equipped with an Automatic Safety Retraction feature, which will retract the Solar/Night Shade to the full upper position in the rare event of an internal motor failure." from the Winnebago Owner's manual and this one, "MCD Switch controlled motors for windshield applications are designed to automatically retract the day or night shade into the full up position in the unlikely event a motor fails." from the product manual and the MCD website are false? Do you have a source? Thanks, Tom My "source" is MCD. I called them as I have never heard of that operation and wanted to know if they built a special model. NO, they stated and they explained just what I posted. I deal with both MCD and Auto-Motion which are the 2 major makers of RV electric shades. Doug Just talked to MCD again. They stated that in theory the shade may FULLY retract, but the design is to make sure that small internal spring keeps the shade from falling down and usually just raises a few inches instead of full retraction.
dougrainer 12/06/16 06:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: attwood water heater acting funky

1. HOW do you know the Electric shuts OFF????? 2. What Year and Model of RV and Model of the Atwood? Doug
dougrainer 12/06/16 06:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motorized Sun Shade

... Both of ours, one called the night shade, the other called the solar shade, are limited the same. If the ignition is on, neither can be down lower than visor height. More over, according to the owner's manual, if the drive motor fails, both shades are retracted. Tom Please give Brand of shades. HOW can the shades retract if the motor fails???????? Doug The shades are MCD Innovations Gold Series Duo/Solo Powered Shades. The product manual does not explain how they work. It does say: "Do not attempt to pull down (unroll) the shade nor operate the power switch after deployment.... If the Automatic Safety Retraction Feature is activated, please call MCD for further instructions." Tom I figured you had the MCD. But, when you stated it would retract when the motor failed, that got me thinking. Yes, there is a spring in the MCD Gold Series. But, IF the motor fails the shade will do nothing. It will NOT retract and it will NOT fall down because of an extra spring. You then have to use a clothes pin or something to pin it up if it fails where it blocks your vision. But, as I stated, it will NOT auto retract when the motor fails. Doug
dougrainer 12/05/16 12:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motorized Sun Shade

It seems to me that if one can't lower it while driving, it's not really useful. How many of us start out and say to ourselves, "I need to lower the visor now, because I will be driving into the sun in 3 hours. The motorize sun visor on our coach, is use as a night shade. With the engine off, it will lower to cover the entire windshield. With the ignition on, ti will come down only a limit amount. If down when the engine is started, it will raise back up to its limit. Tom They usually have the shades in 2's. A Screen shade and a Blackout solid shade. The screen usually is NOT connected to down parameters. The Black out shade is. IF you have the solid shade ONLY, they try to limit its operation with the Key ON. But that is up to the OEM. Doug Both of ours, one called the night shade, the other called the solar shade, are limited the same. If the ignition is on, neither can be down lower than visor height. More over, according to the owner's manual, if the drive motor fails, both shades are retracted. Tom Please give Brand of shades. HOW can the shades retract if the motor fails???????? Doug
dougrainer 12/05/16 06:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 240V split phase inverter

Does such a thing exist ? Yes, I want L1, L2 and neutral. What are you trying to accomplish? Even the expensive Large motorhomes will have 2 or more 3000 or 4000 watt Inverter/chargers. They may even be 24 volt, but still use the same 120 inputs. Not Split (out of phase) that is 50 amp service. Doug
dougrainer 12/04/16 03:12pm Tech Issues
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