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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1576 matches.

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RE: Xantrex Freedom 458 remote panel issues

The OLD 458 models used to have a problem with the various internal board ribbon connections getting loose. I would remove the 458 and take the outer case OFF and verify the various PC board pins are secure and tight. Then test the remote before reinstalling the case. Doug
dougrainer 04/22/17 11:39am Tech Issues
RE: Xantrex Freedom 458 remote panel issues

Xantrex is now owned by Schneider, the same company that owns Square D among other. Their tech support is pretty good usually but you are talking about an older product. There's a really good independent servicing dealer called Tekris Power Electronics, Inc. I would give them a try. By the way, there's nothing fancy about the connection cable. It is a normal cable, it just has more wires in it than some cheap cables you might find in a hardware store. If you get a cable with all the wires in it (6 I think) it will work fine. There is a difference in "phone" type cables. Yes, it is fancy. NOT a normal cable 1. Is a 4 wire PHONE cable 2. Is a 4 wire COMMUNICATION cable and the wires are connected in reverse at the ends. 3. There are also 6 wire cables. It depends on which type(4 or 6 wire) you have. 4. BUT, a LOT of people will get a regular modular phone cable and think it is the same wire schematic and it is NOT. Doug
dougrainer 04/22/17 11:35am Tech Issues
RE: Xantrex Freedom 458 remote panel issues

I would like to know what you mean by " Proper cables". Those cables are NOT phone type cables. Also, you stated you connected your remote to another 458 and it worked correctly. Can you try connecting THAT other 458 remote to your 458 to see if it operates?. I have never seen a Problem like you have without it being the Remote cable that was either cut/chewed or had corroded ends. Remember, depending on the systems installed the remote cable may NOT run direct from the Inverter straight to the remote panel. It may go thru a Auto Genstart module also or a AC control board module. What I have is a test cable(not a phone cable) that I use to connect the remote direct to the Inverter to verify if the problem is the cable. Doug
dougrainer 04/22/17 05:56am Tech Issues
RE: Tow vehicle electrcal hookup

Talked with spartan and on my year moho the same fuses that operate coach lights operate trlr lights. Coach is working properly so it is wiring or a connector somewhere. The receptacle looks ok, but I think I will start with replacing it with a new one in case it has funked out. Doubt that is it but a quick and easy try. Then trace the harness as far as I can. When using a tester, should I hook the power lead to power and then to different contacts while those are turned on, brake, turnsignal, tail lights and so on? Whoever you talked to at Spartan is wrong. For the past almost 20 years, Motorhome chassis makers (Ford/Workhorse/Roadmaster/Spartan/Freightliner) have ALL separated the Tow plug fuses from the regular chassis lighting fuses. They have done this to prevent a TOW short from taking out the regular motorhome lighting and Brake lighting AND to split the current draw to separate fuses. Running BOTH systems on 1 fuse would require larger fuses(over 30 amp on each circuit) and LARGER gauge wiring to handle that larger load. I NEVER trust the fuse panels schematic. You either use a voltmeter or a 12 volt tester(best and quickest) and check ALL the fuses in the 2 or 3 chassis fuse blocks. Make sure you have the Ignition key ON. Your problem is you have a towable fuse/s blown somewhere. Doug
dougrainer 04/21/17 04:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Duo Therm 135000 and 15000 Roof Top A/C

Piercing(Tap) are used to access the closed system to allow you to recover and drain the coolant. Once that is done you solder in regular valves. Leaving a Tap valve on the copper will eventually leak as the copper will slowly smash and the rubber seal will start to leak. Some will not leak if installed correctly. But most are not installed correctly. It is highly suspect that BOTH units would loose coolant. When you DO have a leak, the amount of coolant to even cool marginally will be gone in less than a month if not completely gone. They only hold about 16ozs of Freon/410. Doug
dougrainer 04/21/17 04:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Who's the best air conditioning guy in San Antonio?

It depends on what kind of work. Since it IS an RV AC, your best bet would be a larger RV service center. Regular AC repair people do not know how RV AC's work and have the parts available. What is wrong with your AC? Doug I disagree with you. As an Industrial AC tech and 20yrs in the field a rv unit is a cool summer breeze with a cold beer in my hand. Sure take it to an rv shop where they have a hard time putting in screws and applying sealant. In 38 years as a RV tech, I have fixed scores of RV units that Residential AC technicians attempted to fix. HOW do you check the Freon/410 charge on a RV unit? 1st if the temp split was low as well as suction line temp high indicating it could be a refrigerant side issue you install solder on gauge taps so you can use gauge manifold. Then you go by superheat subcool to determine refrigeration side issue. Pull charge and weigh to determine if a leak amd repair as needed. A refrigeration system is a refrigeration system. Now i do know many residential guys as well who cant even fix a home heatpump, but this is not rocket science for someone disciplined and proficient in Thermodynamics. Even with a Google search to help you get the right answer, you are COMPLETELY WRONG. I love giving so called experts rope to hang themselves with. You do NOT have the expertise to work on and FIX RV A/C units. The ONLY way to verify a correct charge on a RV AC unit is by a temp corrected AMP draw at the compressor. NO OTHER WAY. A Temp differential will NOT be accurate enough to get the correct diag. May not be rocket science, but you seem to have a problem just using Bottle Rockets:S NEXT time you think you are so smart, think again. Doug PS, a Refrigeration system is NOT a Refrigeration system. This does not even deserve a reply. I dont think I am smart...this is what I do for a living. Superheat/Subcooling and saturation temps are what determine a properly operating refrigeration system. Amp draw alone only tells a small piece of the equation. What you do is typical hack work of the rv industry. Amp draw alone is just a quick yes sir everything seems fine with your ac at this time while your here on your maint check. We are talking about an ac that is not working properly And sorry to burst your bubble a refrigeration system is a refrigeration system, they all work on the same principles. Funny. I show you do not understand RV AC systems and you dig in and still will not admit you do NOT know everything. Unlike systems you deal with. ALL RV AC systems are built EXACTLY the same for their Model and Size. EXACT same Freon/410 charged. NO variables and no reason to supercool to verify charge and operation. WHY do you hold QUALIFIED RV Technicians in such contempt? To charge a RV AC system, you solder in hi and lo Schrader valves, then evacuate and then use a DIAL-Charge to install the EXACT amount of Freon/410 in the AC. TOTALLY different from a Home/Industrial AC system. I have extensive RVP(Coleman)/Dometic factory training that qualifies me to work on RV AC systems. I am also NIASE certified to work on Automotive Dash AC systems. Doug
dougrainer 04/21/17 10:40am Tech Issues
RE: Who's the best air conditioning guy in San Antonio?

It depends on what kind of work. Since it IS an RV AC, your best bet would be a larger RV service center. Regular AC repair people do not know how RV AC's work and have the parts available. What is wrong with your AC? Doug I disagree with you. As an Industrial AC tech and 20yrs in the field a rv unit is a cool summer breeze with a cold beer in my hand. Sure take it to an rv shop where they have a hard time putting in screws and applying sealant. In 38 years as a RV tech, I have fixed scores of RV units that Residential AC technicians attempted to fix. HOW do you check the Freon/410 charge on a RV unit? 1st if the temp split was low as well as suction line temp high indicating it could be a refrigerant side issue you install solder on gauge taps so you can use gauge manifold. Then you go by superheat subcool to determine refrigeration side issue. Pull charge and weigh to determine if a leak amd repair as needed. A refrigeration system is a refrigeration system. Now i do know many residential guys as well who cant even fix a home heatpump, but this is not rocket science for someone disciplined and proficient in Thermodynamics. Even with a Google search to help you get the right answer, you are COMPLETELY WRONG. I love giving so called experts rope to hang themselves with. You do NOT have the expertise to work on and FIX RV A/C units. The ONLY way to verify a correct charge on a RV AC unit is by a temp corrected AMP draw at the compressor. NO OTHER WAY. A Temp differential will NOT be accurate enough to get the correct diag. May not be rocket science, but you seem to have a problem just using Bottle Rockets:S NEXT time you think you are so smart, think again. Doug PS, a Refrigeration system is NOT a Refrigeration system.
dougrainer 04/21/17 08:19am Tech Issues
RE: Grey tank overflow

I would suspect a drilled plastic plug fell into the Gray tank when they built it and with the volume of water injected into the tank when the washer pump is ON, is causing this round plastic to block the exit fitting at the dump valve. Then it falls over and does not block completely. The fact that it comes UP into the shower does not point to a vent problem. The water HAS to fill up the tank to then go back UP into the shower. Having a vent block would cause the water to come back out the washer down pipe. UNLESS, the washer drain plumbing is somehow connected to the down pipe of the shower where it goes to the gray tank. The Y fitting is backwards where the Washer ABS and the Shower ABS is tied together. The force of the washer pump is pushing the water back up the one section of the Y. Doug
dougrainer 04/21/17 06:05am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Who's the best air conditioning guy in San Antonio?

It depends on what kind of work. Since it IS an RV AC, your best bet would be a larger RV service center. Regular AC repair people do not know how RV AC's work and have the parts available. What is wrong with your AC? Doug I disagree with you. As an Industrial AC tech and 20yrs in the field a rv unit is a cool summer breeze with a cold beer in my hand. Sure take it to an rv shop where they have a hard time putting in screws and applying sealant. In 38 years as a RV tech, I have fixed scores of RV units that Residential AC technicians attempted to fix. HOW do you check the Freon/410 charge on a RV unit?
dougrainer 04/20/17 07:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Duel Fuel Class A

Late 70's thru about 1984, Winnebago(Itasca) Tiffin/ Airstream had dual fuel (LP/Gasoline) motorhomes. Due to the LP costing less per gallon. But, due to the WEIGHT and you had to have an ASME tank to hold the LP and your mileage on LP was about 75 percent of gasoline, PLUS finding refill stations at convienant locations, dual fuel went way out of favor and hard to find motorhomes with it after 1985. AS to it being a PLUS on the OP's question. NO, just another item that can go wrong. Doug
dougrainer 04/20/17 10:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Who's the best air conditioning guy in San Antonio?

It depends on what kind of work. Since it IS an RV AC, your best bet would be a larger RV service center. Regular AC repair people do not know how RV AC's work and have the parts available. What is wrong with your AC? Doug
dougrainer 04/20/17 09:37am Tech Issues
RE: Propane tank recertification

For peace of mind on a 13 year old tank, I would replace them. $62 at Camping World and about every other place listed. They hold about 7 gallons so add your cost per gallon LP in your area. Doug
dougrainer 04/20/17 09:35am Tech Issues
RE: Awning air shock replacement

From the Awning Maker. Doug
dougrainer 04/19/17 06:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Emergency Start Button - Connects both Battery banks

At least on my '91 Ford chassis, the push button "emergency start" relay would engage anytime you turned the key - in the 'on' and 'start' position. The main reason is I'm usually boondocking; so the last thing I want to do is leave early in the morning with a heavily drained house battery and as soon as I start to crank the engine I'm connecting the lower voltage house battery to the chassis battery which is now sending a bunch of amps to the house battery instead of going to the starter I think you're mistaken, when the key hits the start position the only thing getting power is the starter and ignition circuit. Your headlights, wipers and everything else go dead until the key returns to the run position. If your motorhome was not changed by a subsequent owner it should have a 100 amp alternator that is designed to take a big load like that. Hope he responds. Fleetwood had a system 25 years ago that had an orange/green button on the dash. What this system did was, IF it saw the chassis batteries were slightly low, it would auto engage the emergency start solenoid to crank the engine. IF the chassis battery was NOT low, the solenoid would not engage automatically, but you could push that switch to engage the solenoid manually. Doug
dougrainer 04/19/17 03:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Water pump causes led lights to flicker when on Battery

Is the water pump running at speed when this happens or does it surge and cut in and out? Depending on how many faucets are open the Pump surging is normal. Your problem is normal for some RV's depending on the water Pump and how it operates. The Water Pump pulls significant amps and can cause voltage fluctuation problems. Regardless of how many batteries you have. When on Shore Power, the Power Converter keeps the DC voltage pretty static at 12.9 to 13.1 with no voltage variations. Doug
dougrainer 04/19/17 09:01am Tech Issues
RE: Emergency Start Button - Connects both Battery banks

The POWER on the emergency start switch comes from the Coach Batteries. If you use a SPST, that will have the solenoid energized all the time. IF you are drawing battery power, that means you will draw BOTH battery banks down dead together and you will NOT have any battery power to jump. Doug
dougrainer 04/18/17 06:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Dash ac recharge on class a diesel pusher

Is mine the only one that has a sight glass for checking the freon? That makes it a lot easier to know when you have enough freon in the system. I wish that all AC systems had one. The sight glass is NON functional on a 134a system. A fully charged 134a system will still have bubbles in the sight glass. Doug
dougrainer 04/18/17 09:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Inverter question

We also have a 2007 made by the same manufacturer, although it is a 2007 Monaco Knight. You don't specify which Holiday Rambler model you have. Our Knight did NOT charge the batteries from the engine running as it came from the factory. I should add that it did say in the manual that it was set up to charge from the engine. When we contacted Monaco we were told that the manual was a misprint and that function was only available on a "high end" coach. ALL MONACO'S CHARGE BOTH BATTERY BANKS FROM THE CHASSIS ENGINE. PERIOD. I don't know where and who some of you talked too, but as a Technician that serviced NEW Monaco's until they went under in 2007(from 1999 when we took them on), and STILL service them all, the system does charge BOTH battery banks from the engine Alternator. NOW, there is one exception. IF you have the Genset ON while driving, the COACH battery charge solenoid from the Chassis Alternator is locked out, because the Inverter/CHARGER will be charging the Coach batteries. Turn the Genset OFF while driving and the Alternator comes back online and charges the coach batteries. Now to the last statement about hi end. That refers to the Trickle charger system that charges the CHASSIS batteries while camped. The lo end Monaco's/HR's did not have that Module installed from the factory. Doug
dougrainer 04/18/17 06:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1987 Grand Villa propane problem

Those are usually controlled by an LP detector, so look for one and turn it on. Odds are the LP detector inside is way out of date and needs replaced anyway. Doug
dougrainer 04/17/17 07:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1987 Grand Villa propane problem

The ORIGINAL system had an LP detector inside that has a switch on it. The Detector HAD to be ON for that solenoid to open. MOST of the time, the inside detector is too OLD or is bad. There is no code or requirement you have to have a LP detector/solenoid system Most people remove that solenoid. The only exception is if you cannot get to the LP tank manual On/Off Valve without crawling underneath the motorhome. In those cases you must have a electric remote shut off switch for the solenoid. BUT, THAT solenoid is between the Tank valve and the LP regulator. IF your solenoid is after the regulator, just remove it. Doug
dougrainer 04/17/17 07:18am Class A Motorhomes
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