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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1107 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Sirius XM?

Geeze. PLEASE,,PLEASE liaten to me. XM Ready menas it will interface with an additional device. IT DOES NOT mean it has XM receiver installed. You need to add a receiver to receive XM signal. Will try getting receiver. Odd that nothing in radio manual says anything about purchasing another part to receive. You have a 12 year old radio. The interface XM module is probably NOT available for your model Jensen Radio. AND, if it is, will be over $100 to $250 dollars(been here and done this and attempted to get such modules for my customers). Now, you could buy a external on the front of the dash XM radio module, but will not be integrated into your Jensen Dash Radio, using the Jensen knobs and controls. The best solution is to go to a Best Buy type store and replace the existing radio with a XM radio complete. Will be much cheaper and you will have a better radio. Until Sat radio became common a LOT of aftermarket RV radios were "SAT READY" only, and you had to purchase the add on XM module to get the radio to accept Sat signals. Doug
dougrainer 04/21/18 06:25am Tech Issues
RE: 30-amp Power Inlet

Just buy a 30 amp extension cord. Then just pull out the necessary few inches to connect the 2 ends and connect to the CG plug. The amp rating of the 30 amp cord is way higher than the combined 50 foot of the 2 cords together. Then you have that extra 25 feet if you need it in the future. Doug
dougrainer 04/20/18 07:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Wiper Blades

Wiper blades have nothing to do with the type chassis you have. ALL wiper blades are installed aftermarket by the RV maker. You just measure the length of the blade and usually Wal Mart super centers has the larger style blades needed for a motorhome. Doug
dougrainer 04/20/18 03:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2005 Fleetwood discovery 4 slides

On some slides in a wardrobe, you remove the Kick panel at the bottom inside of the base. usually this kick panel is carpeted and has just 4 or 5 screws holding it on and the motor will be behind that. When the room is extended, on the outside under the slide can you see a single gear track? IF SO, then the motor is located behind that kick panel. Doug
dougrainer 04/19/18 03:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2005 Fleetwood discovery 4 slides

Without more info, your post does not give accurate info. Are you positive the slide in question is electric? Is it possible it is a Cable driven(accuslide). Maybe Hydraulic? Bedslides, the motor is usually under the bed base by the outside wall and very difficult to get to. But your post seems to indicate it is NOT the Bedslide? Probably the wardrobe slide? If cable driven, you will see the cables on the outside of the slide wall extended or retracted. Can you post a pic of the bedroom and the slide? Doug Is this your system? https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/support/manuals/pg_82_S0010_01.pdf
dougrainer 04/19/18 09:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leveling my HR Endeaver.

You don't say what year your coach is. As stated, if it's older than a 2013 model on a Roadmaster 8 airbag chassis, Monaco had it's own specific procedure. Extend the slides while the coach was in the ride height position (bags aired up) and the frame was straight. This is how the slides were installed at the factory, the bags were aired up and the chassis was sitting in its normal ride position. Dump the air and then extend the three jacks. If you have a manual jack system, you extend the two rears first and then the front. Once all are in contact, correct the side to side to make it level. Not completely correct. Older Monaco used RVA Jacks/HWH/Powergear. ONLY RVA did not dump when Auto leveling. HWH Auto jacks will always dump the air FIRST. Depending on the model Powergear determines when it dumps the air. But, as I stated NOT dumping the air before leveling is counterproductive. As to extend or retract slides, I have NEVER in 20 years of working on ANY brand motorhome and we sold Monaco(Roadmaster) until 2008, had any problem with extending slide rooms with jacks retracted OR extended. As long as you are not on a site that is twisted and obviously not safely level, you will have no problem with your slides, jacks retracted or extended. Not all Monaco's had 3 point leveling. HWH is ALL 4 point. Powergear makes Both and RVA was all 3 point. Doug
dougrainer 04/19/18 05:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leveling my HR Endeaver.

Regardless of what the OEM states of extending SLIDES or not before leveling, YOU ALWAYS DEFLATE THE AIR BAGS FIRST. It is counterproductive to level with the air bags inflated. You also LOSE about 4 inches of leveling stroke, if you do not deflate first. If you do not deflate before leveling(NON air leveling systems), the bags WILL deflate once the jacks hit the ground and start to raise the RV. BUT, you have lost that extra 4 inches of stroke you may need depending on how much stroke the jacks will need to get level. Doug
dougrainer 04/18/18 09:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: cool water in water heater

People, READ the OP's post. He stated he checked the temp at the Relief Valve. That rules out an outside shower or anything else from the water heater to the interior plumbing. FYI, you ALWAYS check the temp at the Pop OFF valve FIRST when checking for Water Heater heating problems. IF the water is NOT scalding hot out of the Pop Off valve the problem is at the Water heater, no where else. His OHM's are correct. Odds are he has a bad tstat. But, he needs to post Brand and Model number of the Water Heater. Doug
dougrainer 04/18/18 06:56pm Tech Issues
RE: kwikee step malfuncuntion driving through rain

You should be under warranty for your 2018 motorhome? I doubt the control box got wet inside. They have those controls very well sealed and I have never had a control box get water intrusion on a Kwikee step. What WILL cause your problem is the door magnet or Pin switch whichever you have, the brown wire (1) that goes from the Door switch to the control box. IF that connection is not weather tight and water/corrosion gets to it, That may complete the ground signal to open and close causing the step to extend and retract. This connection is underneath at the step wire connections and NOT inside a sealed water tight area. The step door magnet/pin switch is a normally OPEN, which means NO ground signal is sent to open the step. IF you get water/corrosion intrusion, that would complete the ground signal and the step will extend, then retract as the corrosion is not a complete ground circuit. Doug
dougrainer 04/18/18 06:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Slide out motor

Powergear an Kwikee are part of the Lippert(LCI) group. Dometic has nothing to do with LCI. Doug
dougrainer 04/18/18 02:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood Furnace starts then stops - sounds water logged

The expansion tank/accumulator will act same as the air pocket and absorb the increased volume/pressure and avoiding the spike that would otherwise be created by the expanding water. Can be installed anywhere between the pump and water heater. Basically it is a permanent air pocket. I had an issue a decade ago where the spike in pressure was causing a leak at the pump. Very hard to detect due to the intermittent nature. Dealer failed twice to find the leak. And yes I did notice a spike in pressure when the hot water was used up and then no water was used while it re-heated and expanded. This is when I realized the issue and found the leak. I had an apartment building doing the same thing except it has 2x 100 gallon water heaters. I was having leaks soon after the water company required a backflow device on the main water supply. My plumber put a 2 gallon expansion tank on each water heater and the issue stopped. Leak under the slab was costing $4,000+ each time. I recommend an expansion tank for all closed water systems including your home or the RV. It really works. I understand your rational. BUT, the problem remains. Once the WATER HEATER air gap is gone and the W/H is heating up, the pop off valve will still seep regardless of the Accumulator. The problem is INSIDE the W/H tank, NOT the Water system. Doug
dougrainer 04/17/18 05:49am Tech Issues
RE: Atwood Furnace starts then stops - sounds water logged

You need to order from an Atwood supplier a Part Number 32397 updated door gasket. Atwood had a problem with the original door gaskets and this seals better. Doug This would suggest that Atwood is at least partly responsible for the OP's water intrusion issue, since they admit that their original gasket was inadequate. If water running down the wall from the slide rail was going in, I would expect that any rainwater running down the wall would do the same. I would contact Atwood about this problem. You are correct. BUT, Rainwater running down the sidewall is NOT his problem. Rainwater directed to the furnace by the slide cover run off is the problem. Doug
dougrainer 04/17/18 05:45am Tech Issues
RE: Atwood Furnace starts then stops - sounds water logged

As another poster mentioned, Your video shows the Pop off valve seeping. That is NORMAL, if you have lost your air pocket in the water heater. Follow these instructions to restore the Air pocket to stop that drip. Doug Dripping Pressure Temperature Relief Valve Weeping or dripping of a pressure-temperature relief valve while the water heater is running DOES NOT mean it is defective. This is normal expansion of water as it is heated in the closed water system of a recreation vehicle. The Atwood water heater tank is designed with an internal air gap at the tank to reduce the possibility of weeping and dripping. In time, the expanding water will absorb this air. To replace the air follow these steps: To restore the air: 1. Turn off water heater. 2. Turn off incoming water supply. 3. Open the closest hot water faucet in the coach. 4. Pull handle of pressure-temperature relief valve straight out and allow water to flow until it stops. 5. Allow pressure-temperature relief valve to snap shut, close the faucet then turn on the water supply. Or for a permanent solution get a small Shurflo expansion/accumulator tank. http://www.adventurerv.net/shurflo-accumulator-tank-camper What happens when the Water Heater DOES lose the air pocket?????? An accumulator tank is not going to stop the loss of the air pocket. MY understanding of this tank is to give steady constant volume pressure on water pump to prevent pulsating when on water pump. Doug
dougrainer 04/16/18 02:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood Furnace starts then stops - sounds water logged

You need to order from an Atwood supplier a Part Number 32397 updated door gasket. Atwood had a problem with the original door gaskets and this seals better. Doug
dougrainer 04/16/18 12:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood Furnace starts then stops - sounds water logged

Good Video. Bad news. Atwood will probably not be responsible for this problem as it is a bad install by the OEM. Yes, the design and run off of the slide cover has caused your water intrusion. The removable door needs to be installed better with a better gasket. DO NOT use silicone to seal the removable door. Your real problem is the vertical mount. It is OK to install vertical, but you must take special care tom prevent water intrusion. Your interior where all the water is, is causing the circuit board to not function. If you dried out the area and the circuit board the furnace would probably run correctly. The furnace will NOT run if you leave the chrome exhaust pipe OFF. You can just insert it into the exhaust metal pipe to run the furnace once it is dried. Without the metal exhaust pipe installed the intake impellor will just draw exhaust gas back into the chamber and snuff out the flame. If it was my unit or my customers unit, I would make and install a drip cap on top the furnace mount to make sure the water could not flow down the side of the furnace from the slide cover. Doug That's the weird thing- in person, it looks like the circuit board itself is dry. Everything that is wet is below that separation. Everything above it seems to be dry. ...... I think. My concern is that I don't know who installed the slide topper/awning rail since the unit did NOT come with slide toppers from the factory. I had the dealer (who is now 1000 miles away) install them. If it was the dealer, then I'm basically screwed without a fight to get reimbursed for whatever work has to be done to correct this issue. I'm asking some friends with a Spartan 1245 of the same year as mine. Any thoughts on how to dry this thing out? Slide Toppers were installed. That does NOT mean they were incorrectly installed. Nobody expects that the water run off would hit this one particular Furnace mount. So, this becomes an issue. It is NOT the RV OEM's responsibility. It is NOT Atwoods responsibility. It is NOT the slide cover installing dealers responsibility. It is just one of those weird things that happen. Doug
dougrainer 04/16/18 12:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood Furnace starts then stops - sounds water logged

As another poster mentioned, Your video shows the Pop off valve seeping. That is NORMAL, if you have lost your air pocket in the water heater. Follow these instructions to restore the Air pocket to stop that drip. Doug Dripping Pressure Temperature Relief Valve Weeping or dripping of a pressure-temperature relief valve while the water heater is running DOES NOT mean it is defective. This is normal expansion of water as it is heated in the closed water system of a recreation vehicle. The Atwood water heater tank is designed with an internal air gap at the tank to reduce the possibility of weeping and dripping. In time, the expanding water will absorb this air. To replace the air follow these steps: To restore the air: 1. Turn off water heater. 2. Turn off incoming water supply. 3. Open the closest hot water faucet in the coach. 4. Pull handle of pressure-temperature relief valve straight out and allow water to flow until it stops. 5. Allow pressure-temperature relief valve to snap shut, close the faucet then turn on the water supply.
dougrainer 04/16/18 12:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Beaver Patriot house batteries

The OP should have stated that he has AGM batteries because the compartment is NOT ventilated by design. He should have also stated that HIS battery compartment is designed for TALL AGM batteries, not regular size RV batteries. EACH battery weighs 119 pounds. He has 4- 6 volt Lifeline AGM's and unless he can find another brand AGM that fits his size in the compartment, he is stuck with Lifeline as the battery he needs. He could go smaller like regular RV AGM's , but he will lose the capacity of the larger Lifeline's AGM. Doug
dougrainer 04/16/18 10:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Atwood Furnace starts then stops - sounds water logged

Good Video. Bad news. Atwood will probably not be responsible for this problem as it is a bad install by the OEM. Yes, the design and run off of the slide cover has caused your water intrusion. The removable door needs to be installed better with a better gasket. DO NOT use silicone to seal the removable door. Your real problem is the vertical mount. It is OK to install vertical, but you must take special care tom prevent water intrusion. Your interior where all the water is, is causing the circuit board to not function. If you dried out the area and the circuit board the furnace would probably run correctly. The furnace will NOT run if you leave the chrome exhaust pipe OFF. You can just insert it into the exhaust metal pipe to run the furnace once it is dried. Without the metal exhaust pipe installed the intake impellor will just draw exhaust gas back into the chamber and snuff out the flame. If it was my unit or my customers unit, I would make and install a drip cap on top the furnace mount to make sure the water could not flow down the side of the furnace from the slide cover. Doug
dougrainer 04/15/18 06:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Opinions from other repair techs re: replacing rubber roof?

I am surprised that nobody has comments re the newer herd of wacum bonded walls, I am no rv tech but are aware of the difference in designs. Frank. What do walls have to do with this problem? Explain your reasoning. Doug
dougrainer 04/15/18 05:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold flu baffle removal

Just use compressed air to blow UP from the burner up. That will remove any debris. Otherwise, you will have to pull the refer to remove the Baffle. You could remove the top roof vent cover, but that entails MORE work than is needed. Much easier to pull the refer. Besides, if you pull the refer top cover, then that exposes YOU to liability if there becomes a roof leak. The Roof people will state you caused any possible roof leak. While you can access the Baffle wire from the top roof vent, believe me, it is easier to pull the refer. Doug
dougrainer 04/15/18 01:55pm Tech Issues
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