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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1384 matches.

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RE: Can I install two thermostats to control one furnace?

Ok, thanks all for your quick responses. Wa8yxm thanks for your inputs, I went and checked the wires going to the furnace, there are actually 5 wires in there. A 12 volt, two white and two grey. I disconnected a white wire that controls the furnace, if this one is disconnected, the heat and eventually the fan will stop after all the heat is dissipated. There is another white wire that controls the heat only, if I disconnect the second one, the fan only runs but not the heat. So, I installed a bi-metal T=stat in series with the white wire that controls the furnace On/Off. Actually cut the white wire and connect it to the new T stat, one end to one screw of the T stat, the other to the other screw. Now, for Room heat, I put the living room furnace switch on and at full heat. I then put the switch ON on the room T Stat witch will make the continuity but only if the temperature lever on this new T stat calls for heat. When the room temp reach the room T stat preset, it cuts the power to the furnace. The furnace finishes it's cycle and shuts off. For living room heat, I keep the room T stat ON and at full heat, and the living room T stat ON, but this time, the living room T stat has the controls, it will shutt off the furnace once the living room is at temp. Looks like it will work? The grey wires, I do not know what they are used for but If I disconnect them, the furnace completely stops, fan and heat, so I do not touch these ones. Any advices? Please respond with the brand and model of your furnace. Monaco used both Atwood or Suburban and NEITHER have 5 wires. They have 4 wires. Unless you have the 2 stage Atwood but that would require the Atwood wall tstat and usually Monaco did not install this model Atwood furnace. Doug ." I disconnected a white wire that controls the furnace, if this one is disconnected, the heat and eventually the fan will stop after all the heat is dissipated. There is another white wire that controls the heat only, if I disconnect the second one, the fan only runs but not the heat". Unless someone has modified your system (or you have the 2 stage Atwood) there is NO such control or wiring on an RV furnace that will allow the Furnace fan to run and not start the Burner. Doug
dougrainer 11/23/14 04:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Can I install two thermostats to control one furnace?

We have two thermostats and only 1 furnace. We never have both turned on for the furnace - reason being, the furnace would run almost constantly between the two locations calling for heat and when it does run, heat comes thru every vent anyway just like it does with only 1 turned on. What are you trying to accomplish by having 2 hooked up? If you want to bump it up from in bed in the morning before getting up to let it warm a bit first, that would work as long as you later turned 1 of them off. You have 2 tstats and only one furnace. BUT, only 1 of those tstats controls the furnace, usually the front living area tstat. NO RV has 2 tstats that control 1 furnace. Doug
dougrainer 11/23/14 04:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dometic Fridge not cooling

sounds like a bad thermister uplug it then put the inside part in a glass of ice water more ice than water wait 10 minutes then check the ohms it should read between 8,000-10,000 ohms A BAD thermistor will NOT stop cooling. It will stop adequate cooling. Doug Doug ALL things ARE possabile i did have a thermister wire short and shut the board off but do believe the cooling unit is plugged as you do. please also note the op stated as well of replacing the unit and not repairing it OK, but in 30 years I have NEVER seen that happen. I have worked on thousands of refers. BUT, the fact remains, IF you suspect the Thermister, then unplug it at the board. A BAD thermistor will still OHM out correctly OR if shorted will indicate that. But, YOUR very rare short shut the board OFF. The OP's board did not shut off. There are multitudes of things that stray from the ordinary, you ALWAYS go for the simpler common items when troubleshooting. Doug
dougrainer 11/23/14 02:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic Fridge not cooling

All lights are on, inside fridge and outside on the display. No Yellow stuff in outside compartment/ JCat At this point, the ONLY thing to do, is wire the 120 elements direct for 24 hours. IF the refer does not get below 10 in the freezer and 40 in the refer, the CU is bad, either blocked or a leaker. You don't always see the yellow ammonia residue on a leaker unless you dismantle the burner flue insulation cover. Doug
dougrainer 11/23/14 12:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic Fridge not cooling

sounds like a bad thermister uplug it then put the inside part in a glass of ice water more ice than water wait 10 minutes then check the ohms it should read between 8,000-10,000 ohms A BAD thermistor will NOT stop cooling. It will stop adequate cooling. Doug
dougrainer 11/23/14 12:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Theft from Coach while at Dealer

I am really surprised that the shop admitted they left the door unlocked. And I am also wondering why you had to learn about this theft from Directv and not the dealer? Also, I am not sure about a signed contract limiting the shops liability for leaving property on their watch, but a good friend of mine had his car broken into at a private parking lot in Sacramento. There was a big sign posted, "not responsible for loss,etc". Turns out there were a lot of break-ins on that lot. My buddy took the lot owner to small claims and won, even though they had the sign, park at your own risk. They apparently had some responsibility to secure customers property. They do NOT have to admit or know the RV was locked or unlocked. IF there is forcible entry, then it is assumed the RV was secure. NO forcible entry, then it is assumed the RV was not locked or secure. No brainer. Doug
dougrainer 11/23/14 12:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Blown Engine, 8.1l

If it is going to be sitting for a period of time why purchase the registration since its not going to be on the roads. Once its fixed then do the reg.. Could save the money? I have know several individuals that have been at a park for yrs and they do not keep current registration on the RV. If it is NOT registered, his Insurance may lapse. He needs to talk to his insurance company IF he decides to not renew. Doug
dougrainer 11/22/14 03:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: electrical problem

2004? wow it only lasted 10 years. If mostly plugged in I would get the 35 or 45 amp PowerMax. If charging from generator a lot then get 45 amp IOTA or 60+ amp Progressive Dynamics. www.bestconverter.com I doubt that WFCO was original equipment. National never used WFCO parts in their motorhomes or Trailers. Doug
dougrainer 11/22/14 09:58am Tech Issues
RE: Stove problem

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-2BR-1066050-Match-Lite-2-Sealed-Burners-Stainless-Steel-/321577284021?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 This is probably the model/style the OP has. You only have to have the flame lit for about 5 to 10 seconds MAX, for this style thermocoupler to stay open. Doug PS, from the operation manual. "If the burner ignites the knob can be released after approximately 10 seconds. 2.7. The knob may now be set to the required burner position"
dougrainer 11/22/14 09:51am Tech Issues
RE: Stove problem

Stove top burners typically don't use a thermocouple (ovens due because of thermostat) Stove top burners have a on/off control......feeds a burner tube to the burner. At burner is a diffuser ring and spark ignitor (piezo or electronic) Lift up burner top...check for obstructions in burner tube, diffuser ring. Also check for flow of propane---right at on/off control and where tube connect is orifice. It could be clogged or tube is not properly connected-------propane should flow down center of tube. You missed the part where he stated he has to PUSH the knob in to start the flow of LP. He also stated that just one of TWO burners has this problem. That points to the 2 burner range model that you have a Thermocoupler for each burner and the Thermocoupler is either loose or defective for that bad burner. Doug
dougrainer 11/22/14 07:42am Tech Issues
RE: The big voltage rip off in my SUV

If you would run a 8 gauge charge wire from your Alternator charge lug to the 7 way on your tow plug(you will have to adapt from 8 to 10 or 12 gauge at the plug to get it inside the plug. Then run a 8 gauge from your Tow trailer side to the RV battery. I will bet your charge problem will go away. Wire SIZE is critical when charging 12 volt systems. The factory tow vehicle wiring is never large enough to adequately do a good job. Also, doublecheck the ground wire also. The larger (8 gauge) ground wire is also needed. It takes BOTH large cables on a 12 volt system to flow the current needed. Hopefully you are not using the ball as the ground. Doug 14.4 is more than enough to charge your battery.
dougrainer 11/21/14 01:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Roadmaster Kwikee level best Jacks sensorsr broken

Page 8 shows part number for the proximity sensor. Power gear/ Kwikee Yes, you could splice back onto the sensor if you have enough wire to do so. I would recommend soldering and heat shrink. This is not the same as mine, I have the jacks legs that retracts 90 degree. That's why you need to email PG and ask them the P/N and where you can get the switch. Doug
dougrainer 11/21/14 12:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Roadmaster Kwikee level best Jacks sensorsr broken

You will have to email Powergear/Kwikee and ask them if they still have parts for your system. They do not sell to retail customers but only thru authorized Powergear dealers. Doug PG.info@lci1.com
dougrainer 11/21/14 08:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: DC side issue Coach Batts not charging

There are exceptions but basically here are the switch position explanations and options. Main = Coach chassis battery, this is the one that cranks up the main engine AUX = House battery, this is the one that lights and heats your life, cools your food and controls all the stuff that makes you comfortable. It likely also runs the slides in and out. They must be in the ON or USE position for the house converter to charge them. NOW: the house converter... IF the original batteries which you were told were good were stone dead.. they may have shorted and popped some fuses on the converter.. OR: the converter may have died for other reasons.. here is a quick check. Plug in, with the AUX switch off for at least a minute,, Do the house lights still work? NO = Bad converter UNLESS you have a big inverter in which case it depends on how it's wired. (inverters may be wired in before the AUX switch) But if you do not have such an inverter AUX-OFF they will not charge. Finally: SOME motor homes... The house will charge the chassis provided it is connected.. Some.. it will not,, Some does not matter if connected or not. As you can see,, OPTIONS... alas, you need someone to look over your coach (Fellow RVer can do it) to figure out this. 1. MOST motorhomes will still operate the 12 volt coach systems on Converter or Inverter/Charger IF the Battery disconnect is off. Some do require the Battery disconnect to be ON before Converter power is supplied, but very few, so your test for the 1 minute is NOT a valid test with the Aux off. 2. NO correct "large" Inverter/Charger will ever be connected thru the battery disconnect. MOST battery disconnects have a 100 amp DC limit. Large (over 1500 watt) Inverter/Chargers will go over 200 amps in Invert mode. You ALWAYS connect the battery cables direct to the large Inverter/chargers thru a 250 to 300 amp DC fuse. Doug
dougrainer 11/21/14 05:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Re&Re underbelly cover

They make a zipper flap that has adhesive to adhere to the underbelly. You take the flap and cut to the size of the zipper and then use the tape to glue to the underbelly. OEM's use to install these years ago to gain access to slide motors or holding tank recessed valves so you did not have to drop the underbelly. Doug http://mobilehomedepotmi.com/mh_catalog2/trap-flap.html
dougrainer 11/20/14 03:41pm Tech Issues
RE: DC side issue Coach Batts not charging

It would also help if I understood fully the battery mode switches also mom/duel I get the batt condition button with gauge. That's obvious but if I don't have one of the switches like Aux in the right position would that keep them from charging? I've got all the books and paperwork for all the components on this rig with the exception of anything from Winnebago instructing me on how anything works like what switches are for what. It's a guessing game On your year Winne. The Dual/MOM functions like this On DUAL when you push it, it stays locked in. This closes ANOTHER charge solenoid (that silver one like you purchased), that engages both battery banks to charge while driving down the road. If you leave the Dual switch engaged and you turn the Ignition key OFF, then that solenoid opens. Most leave this switch on all the time. The DUAL side uses Chassis battery power to close the solenoid when the Ign key is ON. On MOM (momentary,called emergency start on other RV's), which is spring loaded and will pop back when you release it, pushing this side and holding it, will close that silver solenoid to use the Coach Batteries to jump start the chassis engine if the chassis batteries are low or dead. The MOM side uses the coach batteries to engage the charge solenoid. As you found out, you have a broken Intellitec Disconnect relay and it operates completely different from a solenoid that uses 12 volt to close the solenoid. The main feature of the Intellitec is, it is called a "latching relay", which means it does NOT consume any 12 volt power once engaged or disconnected. Doug
dougrainer 11/20/14 03:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replace Refrigerator..Or Cooling unit

1. They do NOT wear out. There are no moving parts to wear out. What you have is a partially (or fully ) blocked cooling unit. This is from years of those times you parked unlevel. It accumilates 2. If you have the EG2/3 series that puts the refer over 25 years old. Have you had the recall from 20 years ago done? Regardless, on a refer more than 25 years old, it is better to replace it, not repair it. 3. Go 2 way. The 3rd way is a 12 volt heating element and it is ONLY for keeping the existing cold when in transit. You never use the 12 volt when camping. 12 volt will not cool down the refer. Doug
dougrainer 11/20/14 01:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic 2652 RBX Not Properly Vented In Tango Trailer

I see Dometic paying a bunch of money for something that the first tech should have easily caught Venting and installation is the first thing to check. AS Chris mentioned, there should have been a big red flag once the 2nd unit failed. Can the OP respond? Did Dometic or the OEM trailer maker pay for all the repairs? I find it hard to believe that if Dometic was paying for the repairs, their system did not flag the numerous cooling units and state that the installation needed a complete check out. These units rarely fail and to go thru multiple Cooling Units shows that the so called Technicians did not know what they were doing. If a customer came into our shop and had multiple failures fixed by other service centers, I would NOT just put a new cooling unit in without checking the installation parameters. Sadly, this was NOT a Dometic problem but a OEM problem causing the expensive failures. This type of ventilation problem (lack of a upper baffle) is more common than people think. Usually, you do NOT get a complete failure, but lack of correct cooling and the customer blames the refer because he does not realize he has a problem with the install. Doug
dougrainer 11/20/14 05:39am Tech Issues
RE: Suburban heat pump

Hi, Chances are that the thermostat is made by Suburban, or at least might have the Suburban name on the thermostat someplace. The rooftop A/C unit or heat pump probably is not made my Suburban. More likely it is a Coleman, Dometic, or another brand. The Furnace normally is built by Suburban, and one other furnace manufacture. So I am not surprised by their confusion. Anyway most RV heat pumps have a thermostat that will shut it off at about 40F outside air temperature, and switch it over to the propane furnaces. This is normally automatic. Also if you don't have 120 volt power, the furnace will come on right away with any call for heating. If you have only 105 volts, it will still try to run the heat pump, though it is bad on a compressor to run it at below about 104 volts. Good luck! Feel free to ask any question. Probably most have been asked at least 10 times over the past 10 years! Fred. The tstat is RVP. NOBODY uses the Furnace brand tstat on motorhomes in the past 20 years. The Furnace brand tstat does not have the ability to control roof top AC/HP operation. Unless someone has modified the system, the Wall Tstat will be the same brand as the roof top AC/HP unit. You will see the Furnace brand Tstat on inexpensive Trailers when they do not have ducted and Wall mount roof AC tstat controls. Doug
dougrainer 11/19/14 05:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold On Lights Stays On With Frig Off

My Norcold Model N843 refrigerator on light stays on after the refrigerator is turned off. If I push the on/off button, then the refrigerator starts in one of the modes. I am sure the refrigerator is off because I open the door and the light is out. If I turn the master switch for my house batteries off and back on then the on light stays off. Is this something a hard reset would fix? No, a hard reset is ONLY for a NO CO condition, nothing else. You probably have a bad optical board(this is the inside push button display). Doug
dougrainer 11/18/14 07:40pm Tech Issues
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