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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1564 matches.

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RE: Magnum normal float amp draw

You want help but you fail to answer questions. Click on this link. Respond and verify THIS is the remote panel you are looking at for that amp draw. IF it is NOT, then your question is NOT about the Magnum system. Doug http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sites/default/files/MagDocs/64-0003-Rev-G-ME-RC_Web.pdf
dougrainer 02/25/17 12:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Magnum normal float amp draw

Are you reading the MAGNUM remote panel? Or are you reading the Intellitec or PCS 120 EMS system remote. I will bet you are reading the EMS (energy Management system) remote and if so, that jump would indicate the Water Heater 120 element engaging (4 amps plus the 11 to 12 amps the Element pulls) ---16 amps. Once the 120 element heats the water, the element turns off and your voltage drops to that 4 amps. If this is NOT the case, I would look at loose cables on the coach batteries. Doug
dougrainer 02/25/17 02:23am Tech Issues
RE: roof clearance lights

Awesome thanks for all the good info. Now that hall know what they are can u please tell me how the heck to get them out lol? & what I can go back with? & where I can get them? Thanks a ton. Would like to get this done before the rain sunday You drill them out like regular rivets. Doug
dougrainer 02/24/17 12:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: roof clearance lights

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/apalach/media/2ndPull1541.jpg.html
dougrainer 02/24/17 08:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: roof clearance lights

That is just an expandable rivet. Yes, now that you show the Teardrop style clearance light, that is how Tiffin installed them. I thought you had the older Bargman rectangular lights. That is what confused me. Doug
dougrainer 02/24/17 08:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Atwood water heater

Modules only "burn/melt" if you have had a flame Flashback. Caused by a burner tube restriction. You need to check and clean both the burner tube and the exhaust burner tube that goes thru the water heater. Doug
dougrainer 02/24/17 06:16am Tech Issues
RE: roof clearance lights

Yeah similar to that but the screw is much smaller & doesn't have a head on it. Also the anchor is longer & bends in then I guess when u screw it down it expands at the bottom. Not like any anchor I have seen before but that's what it is I wish you could post a Pic. Doug
dougrainer 02/24/17 06:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: roof clearance lights

It screws into the Fiberglass. On some Tiffins, there is a GROUND wire that must be riveted to the light assbly. as the Fiberglass has no ground. On others there are 2 wires per light. The 12 volt and the ground. Doug
dougrainer 02/23/17 05:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: roof clearance lights

Thanks.. it is not riveted... it is washer with a screw coming thru it... it appears u have to unscrew it from the underneath side. Tiffin NEVER installed clearance lights from the back side. I have NEVER (in 37 years) seen any exterior clearance light installed from the backside. IF it is indeed screwed from the inside of the capo. someone else did that, not Tiffin. If you determine they need removed from the backside, I would remove the clearance light by breaking it off, cut off the screws and install correctly from the front. Doug
dougrainer 02/21/17 02:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: roof clearance lights

Tiffin does not rivet clearance lights in the cap or sides. IF it is riveted, someone else did that in the past 20 years. The use standard wood screws, not machine screw and nuts. Doug
dougrainer 02/21/17 12:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator problem

You would think after 2600 posts, you would KNOW to include brand/model of refer. Are you positive you have waited long enough for it to switch? IF the refer does NOT call for cooling it will NOT indicate switch to LP. Once it calls for cooling it will then start on LP and show it. Doug
dougrainer 02/21/17 12:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator problem

My Taxes are too high. Doug
dougrainer 02/21/17 12:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dometic 13.5 A/C

Model 3310741-016 dometic 13.5 A/C, a squirrel chewed thru the wiring on this unit. Wires go from start capacitor to the condenser. They also chewed thru the plastic condenser housing. The 5er is a Montana and was prewired for the second unit which I am referring to. I have some questions regarding this problem. 1. Is the pre-wire power source connected to the same breaker as the original unit? 2. Is the plastic condenser cover available to buy? 3. Can the cover be patched and if so what is the best product to use? The hole is the size of your fist. Thinking of metal over the hole and then eternabond over the metal. Thanks! 1. NO 2. Yes, but I would find a replaced bad unit and use it. 3. I would patch it. The fan motor covers are REQUIRED on Low Profile 600 series Penguin units. They are there to force the air thru the Condensor fins. Both the Fan covers and the TOP cover are required for getting air thru the Condensor. Doug
dougrainer 02/21/17 08:27am Tech Issues
RE: Dometic 13.5 A/C

That is not a model number. That is the control box Part Number for a Dometic. Doug
dougrainer 02/20/17 05:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Fiberglass roofs

So basically what I said???? No, the glue did not fail. The air intruding under the Rubber caused the rubber to pull loose. BIG difference. HOW do you think we remove the old rubber when we replace the Roof?????? Doug You blow on it? People like you we fire as customers. You are not worth the BS you bring. To answer your STUPID response--you cut in strips and PULL it off the decking. It takes a LOT of strength to rip those small strips OFF a correctly glued roof. So, this shows the force of wind at 60 mph getting under the Rubber and pulling it loose to bubble. To also answer your stupid response, if glue failed why do you not see bubbling at the middle or rear of a rubber roof in transit? Because there is no place for the wind to get under at those spots. Doug
dougrainer 02/20/17 05:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What is this on my battery

I would guess a circuit breaker. If you can get to the flip side of it any model numbers or product names printed on it will be of great assistance. 6 hours before you posted he stated it WAS a Circuit Breaker and WAS connected to the jack. Doug
dougrainer 02/19/17 06:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Need help diagnosing roof A/C

The output temp of the air is within one degree of ambient on both cool and heat. BUT, This time I did all the testing over again using shore power, last time I used my generator just to exercise it. On shore power the compressor only had a draw of 7.2 on cool and heat! After check and re-check I went back to generator power and got the original readings of 10.5 :@ I also used two different meters just to be sure. My volts on shore power held 115 and the ambient temp was 60 degrees, amp draw only 7.2, should have been almost 10. My guess is that testing on the generator was not the best idea due to variances in voltage. And that the shore power reading is the correct one. So is 7.2 amp compressor draw low enough to indicate a Freon leak? Thank you I have NEVER seen a variance due to Gen versus shore Power. Yes, 7.2 would indicate NO coolant. No offense, but you really do not know what you are doing. You have just enough knowledge to get almost the complete picture. But, you got there. You have a BAD leaking unit. Replace it. Doug
dougrainer 02/19/17 06:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Fiberglass roofs

So basically what I said???? No, the glue did not fail. The air intruding under the Rubber caused the rubber to pull loose. BIG difference. HOW do you think we remove the old rubber when we replace the Roof?????? Doug
dougrainer 02/19/17 06:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fiberglass roofs

Okay Doug I get it. The roof bubbling is not because the glue failed. It's because the air caused the glue to fail?? Was I wrong because I used the word glue instead of adhesive? Isn't glue an adhesive? Either way didn't the glue fail and cause the roof to bubble??? No, Adhesive or glue, it will not cause bubbling if it fails. The bubbling is caused because air is getting in somewhere and getting under the Rubber and bubbling it up. You would be amazed at how small (less than a 1/4 inch) gap anywhere in the front area that is not correctly sealed and allowing the Air in transit to get under the rubber. Of course, the longer this continues to happen the larger the bubble and amount of membrane comes loose from the existing adhesive. Eventually the force of the air will rip the rubber away from the front Cap and the rubber will flap and no longer bubble. Usually we find the area where the sidewall awning rails are not correctly sealed and there is that small 1/4 inch hole allowing road wind to get in. This will not leak water in but allow wind to get under the rubber. Also this can happen when the EPDM is incorrectly replaced and they did not insert the membrane UNDER the Cap or front metal rail. Doug
dougrainer 02/19/17 04:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hand Held Air inflators

Out shop compressor is set at 175 PSI and is a 75 gallon compressor. It take me on average 1(one) minute per 10 lbs to inflate Motorhome tires. So, if the tire requires 120 PSI and the tire is at 90(this is usually what customers have dropped to), It takes me about 3 to 5 minutes to air up that 1 tire. HOW long do you think it would take this cheap type of system to fill a motorhome tire that requires in excess of 60 psi? A LONG TIME, if it can ever get it that high, regardless of its 200 psi rating. Those type tools are best for Auto/Trailer tires. Doug
dougrainer 02/19/17 01:40pm Tech Issues
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