| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: HWH 325 leveling jacks manual problem

The solenoids are the culprit. They are shorting out. The solenoids are NOT continous duty solenoids. IF they stay on longer than 10 to 15 minutes, they overheat and short out internally. The fact that the other solenoids get hot point to that at some time the system was left ON in retract for mote than 15 minutes. That will happen when one or more jacks do NOT fully retract and the system will stay on until the jack is retracted or you shut the system off. You really need to replace all 4 solenoids. The ones that get hot but function will fail in the future. THAT is why the fuse blows---it PROTECTS the Main control board system. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/18/13 02:23pm |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Duo Therm AC freezing up

1. They only have 1 lb of coolant, so if you had low coolant, the unit would be TOO LOW on coolant to cool . This is NOT your problem
2. IF you have a wall tstat, then your unit has a freeze sensor. If you have a freeze sensor, it CANNOT freeze unless the sensor is defective or is NOT installed in the evaporator coils.
3. IF you have manual roof top Controls, then freezing is a possibility, you need to run on HI Cool and make sure the Evap fins are clean and your Air filter/s are clean. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/18/13 05:46am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Atwood Levelegs control board

1. There is no reset for power loss on Atwood Electric levelegs
2. Losing power to the Atwood system will NOT cause any problem
3. I have NEVER heard or seen any control board other than the original models that Atwoods have always had
4. You may have a problem with your Atwood jacks, but it was not caused by your Converter issue. Below is the only reset and does NOT take 2 hours ($200). Doug
5. NO CURRENT ERROR MODE
• During any operation if no current is detected from leveler after
leveler is activated, the following occurs:
1. Warning alarm will sound.
2. Power is removed from the control box disabling normal
operations.
3. The red and green LED’s for that leveler will blink on and off
to indicate the system is in an error mode.
• To proceed,
1. Press “ON”. This will shut the warning alarm off.
2. Simultaneously hold down all four direction buttons and the
“All” button. This resets the timers so controls will detect the
next clutch.
3. Press “RET” and “ALL” buttons. The system is now out of
error mode and ready for normal operations.
If step 3 does not fix the problem, individual levelers can be
retracted by simultaneously pressing the “RET” button and the
adjacent two (2) leveler buttons common to the leveler requiring
retraction.
|
dougrainer
|
06/18/13 05:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Electric fuel pump on 1990 pacearrow 460 v-8

my p-32 is the same the fuel puml is tied into the oil pressure switch so no oil pressure no fuel pump
Correct, it is a SAFETY item/issue. That is why they wire the Electric pump to the Oil pressure switch on the engine. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/17/13 05:57am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Max Air on Dash Air Condition

Max Air on a Class A motorhome does NOT make the fan blow at a higher speed. It DOES close the outside intake door and recirculates the Inside air which will result in colder air output. "Some" Vehicles, it does engage a higher fan speed, but not Class A motorhomes. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/16/13 06:08pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Onan Emerald 6.5 surge

Your Carb needle jets are gummed up. There are 16 needle jet holes and if ANY are restricted will cause surging. Remove the Carb bowl and unscrew the needle and clean out the holes. running any type carb cleaner will NOT remove the Varnish/debris in the holes. You must remove the needle jet assbly. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/16/13 06:04pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Onan Genset Points Replacement

The rotor thru bolt is the END on the right side as you face it. The engine is the left hand side and the Rotor/Armature is the Right hand side. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/16/13 02:17pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Help Identifying Wires Connected to Battery

2. The Green on the right is a protected fused FROM your tow vehicle and goes to the 7 way plug
Looks like #2 connects to three black and one red. I am thinking the red is the slide, small black is tongue jack, large black is from vehicle, the second small black..... no idea.
Jayco fuses the slide AT the inside 12 volt fuse panel. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/16/13 07:59am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: 2007 Georgetown 338. Location of engine comp light switch

The FIRST thing is test for 12 volt positive and ground AT the light. IF No 12 volt then trace back. Some use the Dimmer switch on the headlight switch for the power. Just like in a Car. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/16/13 07:57am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Help Identifying Wires Connected to Battery

1. The green on the left to the BLACK is battery TO the Power center inside the trailer and supplies 12 volts to the Trailer
2. The Green on the right is a protected fused FROM your tow vehicle and goes to the 7 way plug
3. White is ground
4. The orange/black is the breakaway
Is this unit New or new to you? You are correct, that is NOT how Jayco attached the wires when new. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/15/13 07:37pm |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: zoned air conditioning...

Turn to Zone 1 and set for "cool" and set temp to a low enough temperature so that the AC will come on. Switch to zone 2 and set to "off". Front AC will run and rear AC will not.
I did as you said and it did as you said. I think my thermostat might be funky. I had to hit the mode button about a dozen times to change from AC to off.
Matt B
1. Do you KNOW how to switch Zones on your OLD CCC 4 button tstat?
2. The fact that you had to push the button numerous times show that your tstat is worn out.
3. You can either do a google search for someone to repair your tstat or you will have to upgrade to a 5 or 12 button system that will require BOTH AC control boards be replaced along with the tstat. Your 4 button is obsolete and has not been available for over 10 years. The only recourse you have is to send off for rebuild. I think Dinosaur Boards will rebuild yours. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/15/13 05:10pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Intellitec only showing 30A service connected to 50A. ???

Has your display EVER shown 50amps. Mine only shows 20 or 30 even though we are on 50..it's never shown 50 and my manual indicates, even though you're on 50 it will only show 30..:h....Dennis
Ours never shows 50 either.. 20, or 30, but can be set to 50 with the button.
JSO, you are confusing the remote INVERTER display with the Intellitec EMS system display. That 50/30/20/15 button change is for how many AMPS you want the CHARGER section of the Inverter/charger to pull. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/14/13 01:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: DSI fault light on panel - Hot Water

Thank you all for your comments. The gas switch is off, so it must be a weird thing...cause with the gas switch off it should not be faulting, right.
Guess I won't be worried about it provided I have hot water on shore power.
READ my post again. Your tstat is bad and the ECO is tripping causing the DSI fault light. THAT is the reason for your scalding hot water. The ECO trips at 180 degrees instead of the tstat tripping at the normal 130/40 degrees. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/14/13 09:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: DSI fault light on panel - Hot Water

The DSI fault light only pertains to the gas side of the water heater. If it's coming on when the gas is off and you're using 120 AC, then you have a weird issue where something is shorting out between the two systems.
IF the Electric side fails to shut OFF (defective tstat) and the ECO trips the DSI fault light will come on. IF you have the unit on LP AND 120 at the same time and the LP side fails to light, the DSI fault light will NOT come on. Doug
What is the ECO?
Hi limit cut off. If the tstat fails, IT will open and shut the appliance off. Most ECO switches are at the 170/180 limit.
ECO Electronic Cut Off Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/14/13 09:25am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Really -- $1,500 for PDI ! Seriously???

PDI = Pre Delivery Inspection.
No where does it say that it is meant to be an all encompassing training session for the consumer. If you cannot understand the user manuals maybe you bit off more than you can chew. Some of the best training one can receive is by reading the manuals, that is why manufacturers go to the expense of writing and printing them. PDI's are just that, inspections. My mother complained to me that the PDI she received did not cover all the functions of using the convection oven, my response was "Mom did you expect them to cook you a roast? Did you try reading the manual?" I won't write what her answer was.:b
Correct. There are 2 different labor ops for a dealership
1. PDI
2. Retail customer delivery/Walk thru
Both are seperate items, but are INTERNAL and the customer never sees this part of his paperwork. UNLESS you are paying for it from some of "those" dealers:B Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/14/13 09:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: DSI fault light on panel - Hot Water

The DSI fault light only pertains to the gas side of the water heater. If it's coming on when the gas is off and you're using 120 AC, then you have a weird issue where something is shorting out between the two systems.
IF the Electric side fails to shut OFF (defective tstat) and the ECO trips the DSI fault light will come on. IF you have the unit on LP AND 120 at the same time and the LP side fails to light, the DSI fault light will NOT come on. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/14/13 05:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: Really -- $1,500 for PDI ! Seriously???

Dealers and pricing systems certainly differ and some are more "transparent" than others. Anyway here's my recent experience buying a new "leftover" 2012 coach.
The coach had been on the lot for some time and the dealer was "motivated". Over time we negotiated down to what he claimed was his actual dealer cost. (I believe this to be true since we were at approximately 65% of MSRP). I raised my eyebrows at a $2000 PDI charge that he would not negotiate.
His explanation...the coach manufacturer insisted that, if they were to honour the warrantee the coach had to be fully operational and as close to cosmetically perfect as possible when it left the lot. They had a long checklist that they had to complete, sign and send in. The idea here was that the manufacturer would of course cover any failed parts etc. as a warrantee item, but the dealer was responsible for minor wear and tear items or damage that might have occurred while the coach was on the lot and any final adjustments that the coach might require.
At this dealership, sales and parts/service operated as independent entities and therefore the sales department was charged for any work done by service. (Most car dealerships work like this).
What was done for $2000:
- checklist was completed and all systems checked as operational (water was added and plumbing checked, batteries topped up and so on...the tech even came looking for me since I had the remote control with the docs package and he wanted to check the DVD player.
- a number of minor cosmetic items that had accrued on the lot were repaired
- the awning was adjusted to make it deploy properly
- several hours were spent calibrating the levelling system (needed a reset/reboot)
- locate and tighten a leaking water fitting in the bathroom
- fuel and propane tanks were filled
- dealer paid for the first coach service (oil/ filters etc.) (at a truck centre)
- dealer paid for having coach weighed (at moving company)
- dealer paid for wheel alignment once coach was loaded (at a truck centre)
- cleaning person spent at least 3-4 hours cleaning everything inside and out
None of these things were "free" to the dealer and likely not covered by the manufacturer either. In short, I don't think in this case that they made much profit on the $2000 fee. One way or another, it was my money and think I got good value for it.
\
Curious. 6 days ago, you posted you just had your 1997 Thor weighed. You now state in the past 6 days you purchased a new 2012 model?????? The ONLY part of this post that is in error is this-----NO OEM requires a PDI to keep the OEM warranty in effect. Yes, there are a LOT of lot rot/damage that is NOT covered by the OEM warranty and the dealer is responsible for all that repair or maintenance. The LONGER a unit sits on the lot, the more things will need repair that the warranty does not cover and the PDI people are supposed to find and fix. THIS type thing is where some RV'ers get the shaft. They go out of there home state to buy that great deal and then return to the local dealer with a laundry list. A LOT of those items are NOT warranty and the RV'er will have to pay for those items. Those items are the responsibility of the selling dealer. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/14/13 05:34am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: atwood water heater, no water comes out

BOTTOM fitting is always cold and the top is always HOT. It seems either your bypass is in wrong position or the bottom inlet check valve is stuck. Doug
That is correct. Heat rises, so the hot output should be on the top of the tank. Do you know what the check valve off of the hot water output is for? Usually I have seen two check valves on the cold water inlet. One to keep the water from the domestic water tank from backing up and one from the city water supply to keep it from backing up. I'm trying to figure out why one is needed on the hot water outlet.
It is used on the hot side if the OEM has a single handle Bypass system for bypassing the water heater. Also, OLD plumbing codes (depending on the state, California USED to be one) required a check valve on both the Inlet and outlet. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/13/13 07:04pm |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Lippert Hydraulic Leveling Problems

The Trombatta solenoid is not the reason. LCI uses a PRESSURE switch to indicate jacks retracted. IF that pressure switch does NOT see and sense the static pressure on the system the Down light comes on. Doug
http://lci1.com/images/Flyers/LIPSheets/leveling/0008-pressure-switch-flush-fill-fitting-change.pdf
|
dougrainer
|
06/13/13 07:01pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
 |
RE: atwood water heater, no water comes out

BOTTOM fitting is always cold and the top is always HOT. It seems either your bypass is in wrong position or the bottom inlet check valve is stuck. Doug
|
dougrainer
|
06/13/13 12:55pm |
Tech Issues
|