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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1483 matches.

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RE: Norcold issue - Freezer Good, Frig Bad

"It's possible to dislodge a slug of solidified coolant by removing the fridge and inverting it. I've heard of also rapping the piping with a soft faced mallet but I've never tried that." NO it is NOT possible. The blockage "slug" is welded to the inside tubing and Inverting or hitting with a hammer cannot dislodge it. Besides, IF you could dislodge it, it HAS to go somewhere and it will then get stuck somewhere else. Doug
dougrainer 07/21/17 09:59am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold issue - Freezer Good, Frig Bad

jplante4 wrote: Check that the drain from the drip pan is stopped up. This allows warm air to run into the fridge part. ' Stopped up'..... what does this mean?? 1. IF stopped up NO air can go up and water cannot drain off 2. Norcolds have a CHECK valve on the end of the drain tube, so air cannot migrate back up. Also, Air migration will only happen in transit if the drain tube is open to the air. Doug
dougrainer 07/21/17 09:57am Tech Issues
RE: warranty issue

There HAS to be more to this story than the OP is sharing. When the OP went thru the unit when he purchased it and had his walk thru, did you not see this damage? IF there was damage, it should have been noted at that time. If you had no walk thru, THAT IS YOUR FAULT. Now, Heartland has a BAD reputation among Dealers. Numerous Dealers in our area dropped Heartland due to this type problem. Luckily, we never fell for carrying Heartland. Unless you can talk to Heartland and get them to step up, you will probably have to get a Lawyer. It may also be, (very common), that your Dealer has already been paid to fix the problem and either did not fix it or did a poor job and the problem came back. Which is why a OEM will deny warranty. I would ask Heartland direct if they have already paid for this fix on your RV. Doug
dougrainer 07/21/17 06:08am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold issue - Freezer Good, Frig Bad

The OP needs help. Not a bunch of Yahoos arguing over which type refer is best in their opinion and the needs for their type refer. It gets annoying when someone posts help and we have to wade thru a bunch of BS. You don't like Norcold? Fine, just SHUT UP. You have made your point on EVERY Norcold thread for the past dozen years. To the OP, need more info but I will assume you have the 1200 since you have 9 tstat settings. FIRST thing is to verify the rear cooling fans are running. THAT is the most common cause of low performance in the bottom and the freezer works. Doug
dougrainer 07/20/17 06:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Airxcel seems to take forever to cool park model

Of course, if you are in Minnesota you should not need as much cooling capacity as we do in Sarasota, Fl. :) Chris, As someone who has lived in Northern Indiana(Elkhart) Kansas and Oklahoma/California and Texas, I HOPE you are joking. One thing I have learned living in Texas for 37 years is, a LOT of Texans and people in the south are Ignorant of the weather North of Texas. They think it snows in the summer and never gets warm. FYI, Minnesota mean summer temps are 92 to 98 in June July and August. With highs hitting 104 to 106. Right now, YOU are at 86 degrees. Minneapolis is 81 degrees. NOT real different:B So, the AC capacity will be the same required for southern temps. Just not as long a heat problem. Doug
dougrainer 07/19/17 02:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Strange AC cycling?

Yeah coach is 09, zone 1 & 3 AC were replaced with the Mach 8. Atwood Thermostat. OK, per RVP. 1. The original AC units do NOT match the exhaust(cold) air into the roof of your unit. There MUST be a modification to route the cold air direct into the ceiling duct. IF this was not done then you have a restriction and cooling problems. Which would cause the freeze sensor to trip prematurely. How long ago were the units installed? 2. RVP states they have seen problems with NON RVP wall tstat controls Specifically Atwood Tstats. The person I talked too at RVP was not sure if there was a fix for non RVP tstat operation problems. Doug
dougrainer 07/18/17 12:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Strange AC cycling?

1. What year model RV? Mach 8 were not available 2009 2. If 2009, have all 3 units been replaced with Mach 8's? 3. Wall tstat. Atwood or RVP ZC? Doug
dougrainer 07/18/17 10:41am Tech Issues
RE: Bay door lock failure Monaco

There are NO solenoids. They are standard Door lock 12 volt MOTORS. 1 per door lock. Usually on all brand motorhomes, there is a relay at the keyless door control module for EACH side. So, the relay for THAT side is inop. Maybe just has a wire unplugged. Doug
dougrainer 07/18/17 08:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Strange AC cycling?

If you think about your statement that the ac tries to restart and fails after shutting down within 5 seconds and then after another 10 seconds it's able to restart it reflects the imbalance in pressures in the system which is alleviated somewhat with the additional 10 second delay. Given enough time( not sure how long, maybe at least a minute delay), the compressor can overcome this load. Not sure about your system but some thermostats have a variable delay built in and can be reset. NOT RV Tstats. The delay is built in and not adjustable. Odds are it is the Overload ON the compressor and not any other component. I also fail to see how this unit(AC) could cool down at all if the compressor is short cycling as fast as you state. Also, posting the MODEL number of the AC would help. The components on RVP AC units have changed over the past few years and they do not all have the same operational components. A few years ago I had a Tiffin with a similar complaint. You could time it almost exactly on the short cycling. Turned out a piece of Ductwork had fallen down and blocked the cold air output and this was enough to trip the freeze sensor for those short cycles. What you can do is remove the top Evap cover and run the AC. IF it does NOT short cycle you have either a defective freeze sensor or the ducting has a small blockage. Doug
dougrainer 07/17/17 01:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Roof Air won't start without fan running

RVP(Coleman) and Dometic do not have any such relay. NOW, if you have a Carrier brand(orphan), they may have such a control system. But, odds are it is your aftermarket tstat, even tho it has worked for years. It may be defective. Doug
dougrainer 07/17/17 10:46am Tech Issues
RE: intermittent loss of DC coach electricity

I HATE the Term Salesman switch. WHY? There is NO such item. Wouldn't that be sweet if there was such an animal? You go looking at motor homes (or RV's in general) and the salesman starts babbling about the cupholders or some other useless feature. You reach up and turn the "salesman switch" to off and he slumps into a quiet trance. Now THAT is a good switch. Doug
dougrainer 07/17/17 10:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 50 amp MH, plugged into 30 amp, ok to run 2 ac units??

For ScottG. I looked up the breaker info at work from the NEC. Doug Circuit Breaker Ampere Ratings Circuit breakers have an ampere rating (typically marked on the end of the operating handle). This is the maximum continuous current that the breaker can carry without exceeding its rating. As a general rule the circuit breaker’s ampere rating should be the same as the conductor’s ampacity.
dougrainer 07/17/17 07:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 50 amp MH, plugged into 30 amp, ok to run 2 ac units??

ScottG. Sorry, I DON'T LOOK UP info to prove you wrong. YOU do that. I have been an RV Technician for 38 years(still am) and I have NEVER seen any technical info for what you state as it pertains to RV's. Remember, until about 20 years ago All RV's were 30 amp. You want to post misinformation, it is up to YOU to prove you are right. Just not "someone" on the Internet told me. Doug
dougrainer 07/17/17 06:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: operating temperature

"Want to screw up your driveability? Put a LOWER Tstat in the engine. Doug" I love it. A general broad sweep statement versus reality. Yes if a 160F thermostat is used it will certainly harm emissions, driveabilty, and even the lifespan of the engine. But, I went back and I looked and looked for such a disparity in my post. All I found was a 194 - 200 degree value. Hypothesizing is a funny thing. It brings out the dreaded monster extrapolation. As an argument against, never use a verbatim opposing view. Always "extrapolate". Higher, lower, colder, hotter, quieter, louder than what the opposing viewpoint clearly states. This can be be accomplished by simply using a cognitive with no set value. The idea is to allow an engine to operate at optimum temperature. If an individual deludes themselves that an "average" pickup truck operates at the same engine temperature as a motorhome then that's OK if that individual does not profess that "It means the same thing". I have too many years experience to fall for delusions. One of the things I rely on heavily is common sense. If a pickup truck's normal operating temperature is say 216F it is of factory calibration and therefore correct. If that same drivetrain is installed in a NON FACTORY chassis and operates fifteen or more degrees hotter, which value would you believe to be "correct"? If reducing temperature to that of the factory pickup truck is harmful (hello?) an emissions test will reveal it in a heartbeat. California emissions tests are not pass/fail. They use numbers and they use a spans. A range of acceptability that meets compliance. Or not. Emissions tests include HC CO and NOX among others. It isn't a static test. Motor vehicles are put on a chassis dynomometer and tested under load. And idle, and high idle. By comparing vehicle tests, before and after, it is positive proof of an impact or not of doing any maintenance or adjustment. One does not CAUSE driveability problems and not see it in an emissions test. To argue the point would border on the ridiculous. So the idea is to ADJUST engine coolant temperature to reflect that of a NORMAL PRODUCTION FACTORY (Means Ford, GM or MoPar) MOTOR VEHICLE. Normal means range. Acceptable min/max temperatures. What I am saying is it would be foolish to endure the ramifications of a borderline too hot engine. If 20 degrees can be subtracted and still remain within the range as recommended by OEM it will save money. The motorhome builder could give a dham if your hoses last four years rather than eight. It could care less if your chassis batteries last three years rather than seven. It could care less if a throttle position or crankshaft position sensor lasts four years instead of ten. Excessively high heat destroys stuff needlessly. "The Extrapolator" will take the above statement and goose it to try and include every RV in all parts of country, in all driving conditions in every season of the year. An intelligent person will weigh facts and come to a conclusion such as: My rig does not run hot or does so very infrequently I live on Vancouver Island it never gets hot here. I simply do not drive when it gets broiling hot I live and vacation in flat country Or, the best one... I simply don't give a **** I have had to fight this issue for forty years with regard to underhood chassis batteries, extremely high heat and phenomenal rates of grid corrosion. Simply reducing engine coolant temperature to NORMAL helps. Forced air cooling helped even more. This brings up a question not related to batteries. Two questions... How many of you know for a fact what temperature the transmission fluid is on the RETURN line from the transmission oil cooling device? How many of you have installed a transmission cooler or substituted a larger transmission cooler? I apologize for dealing in reality. A bad habit I guess... You are pretty smart, But, like a LOT of smart people you are NOT that smart in all things. MY post was in response to 40 years as an RV Technician. I have seen all the silly things RV'ers have tried with using lower tstats to keep the engine running cooler and the problems they experience. Now, You seem to think Chevy/Workhorse and Ford build Class A and Class C chassis for someone that does NOT install a RV on them. They take into account the weight and design for what the RV maker is doing with the chassis. Those RAW chassis's are BUILT for an RV, nothing else. You USE the control systems that are designed by the Chassis makers. Doug
dougrainer 07/16/17 09:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Which type of NON-silicone for caulking after installing window?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Kwik-Seal-Plus-10-1-oz-Kitchen-and-Bath-Adhesive-Caulk-with-Microban-18516/100163430 We use this. 1. It comes out white to verify you have all cracks and nooks covered. 2. Dries so clear you cannot believe it is installed 3. Adheres to Glass/Fiberglass/ Plastic, almost all things except EPDM roofs. 4. Like others we NEVER use silicone. Doug
dougrainer 07/16/17 09:03pm Tech Issues
RE: intermittent loss of DC coach electricity

I had that problem and it was a bad relay that the "salesman" switch was connected to. I HATE the Term Salesman switch. WHY? There is NO such item. RV's have a Battery Disconnect switch. In 40 years as a RV Technician, the only time that term has come up has been from someone on a Forum posting that term. Whew! I feel better now:B IF the 12 volt disconnect is ON and the unit has power, the Disconnect switch will NOT open and stop 12 volt power. So, if the OP HAD 12 volt power when he started, then the Disconnect switch is not his problem. Now, he COULD have loose nuts on the Disconnect solenoid which would cause his problem. That is why he needs to check all the battery and battery operated switches for loose connections. Doug
dougrainer 07/16/17 08:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 50 amp MH, plugged into 30 amp, ok to run 2 ac units??

As another recently pointed out to me, a 30A outlet is only intended to deliver 24A max continuous. I think if you go out and check the plug, it may be quite warm. You should also check the voltage inside your RV. It could be very low. OK, Please state where you get this information. It is WRONG. A 30 amp RV shore Power plug is rated at 30 amps and 30 amps continuous. Doug
dougrainer 07/16/17 08:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: intermittent loss of DC coach electricity

Your batteries are probably bad or the connections to the batteries are corroded and loose. Shore Power/Genset and starting the chassis engine just uses the Alternator(chassis) or the Power Converter(Inverter/charger) on Shore or Genset. Doug
dougrainer 07/16/17 04:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 50 amp MH, plugged into 30 amp, ok to run 2 ac units??

The simple answer is NO. Each AC unit will pull from 12 to 15 amps HI cool. That leaves you with 3 to 6 amps left for everything else in the RV. Your refer on 120 pulls about 2.5 amps to 4.0 amps. The Power Converter/Inverter-Charger 1 to 3 amps. Add other 120 appliances and you will overload the system. Also, monitor the actual 120 line voltage with a digital Voltmeter. Odds are the line voltage will also be lower than safe/normal operation. If below 110 volts, then shut off 1 AC unit and run it on Hi fan only. There are NO safeguards for running systems on substandard supply poles. If the voltage is LOW, then you risk harm to some appliances including the roof AC units. Doug
dougrainer 07/16/17 04:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: operating temperature

Your cooling system thermostat does not open until coolant reaches 192-196 Deg F. Its OK. Boiling temperature of WATER is 212 Deg F and pressurized cooling system increases this temperature even more. Yes and NO. 50/50 water and Antifreeze moves the boiling point to 223 degrees. Adding pressure, increases it more (about 45 degrees). So, you need Antifreeze. Which will have a pressurized Boiling point of about 268 dgrees. Which I would hope nobody runs their Engine on straight water. Doug
dougrainer 07/16/17 03:51pm Tech Issues
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