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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1318 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Schwintek slides

When Schwintek first came out 4 or 5 years ago, I thought they were junk. We had numerous problems with them on almost all the RV's that used them. Well after working on them and really understanding them, the problem is in the INSTALL and DESIGN by the OEM maker of the RV's. ALL the Schwintek does is move the room in and out on the side tracks. The Schwintek DOES NOT support or lift/hold the room. The ROLLERS do that and are designed and installed by the OEM. It just pushes it in and out. If the OEM designs the wall framing and chassis frames too weak or does not install the floor rollers correctly, then the system fails. If they do not adequately build a solid enough floor in the slide room(The OP's problem) and the rollers push thru or indent in the outer floor, the system fails. They sell and install about 10,000 of these per month. They have for over 4 years. To the Poster that stated he lubes---BAD IDEA- that will cause dirt/sludge build up and WILL cause operational problems. The only lube is a graphite type spray inside on the nylon blocks the driveshafts rotate on. The OP's problem is his dealer. Tiffin responds within 24 hours to all problems to a dealer. As a Tiffin dealer, we get responses within that 24 hours on ALL abnormal requests and problems. We have fixed Tiffin slides with the OP's problem. You install a 1/8 inch aluminum plate on the bottom of the slide where that roller has indented the floor. 1/8 inch will not affect the operation of the slide mechanism. Doug
dougrainer 04/26/15 07:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Shoreline RV5036

I KNOW that part (electric 50 amp cord reel internal connections), but cannot tell you where the Black/Red/White connects too. When I get that part in the shop, the ONLY logical thing to do is replace the Cord Reel assbly. But, if you insist on repairing. You can connect the White/Red/Black to any of the open ring terminals. ALL you have to do when connecting the 50 amp cord is to verify that the White/Black/Red/green(ground) is to the correct pins on the 50 amp end. Red and Black are interchangeable. Doug
dougrainer 04/26/15 07:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: date code on your batteries and age

Batteries have a melted in Date Code on the battery case. This is because, some people will NOT punch out the date code circles on a battery figuring that IF they wait for a problem they will then punch out the date code on the sticker showing it just a few months old. Almost ALL Towables are shipped with NO BATTERIES. There have ben exceptions on some brands or models but very few. Interstate audits their distributors and dealers and ROTATES and removes OLD stock. Soooo, If a RV dealer or retailer installs a battery more than a few months old, that is because, THEY made a choice to do that, not Interstate. Interstate goes by the melted Date code for their warranty policy. It is not really the purchase date because the purchase date will be within 1 month of the purchase. Interstate offers older batteries on a reduced cost to their retailers and those batteries may have been what was installed. Our dealership, the batteries are NEW every week. We go thru all our stock(about 20 to 25) every week. Doug
dougrainer 04/24/15 05:37am Tech Issues
RE: 80mph gusts wind ..ripped off half roof

The problem the OP has is simple. As I stated, NO Insurance company would pay to repair his 20 year plus motorhome. It would be totaled. He would get a check for the totaled RV. That said, the AMOUNT the Insurance company is talking about(less than $10,000), they denied the claim. I doubt you would be able to get a Lawyer to take this case due to the amount involved. BUT, your Agent is your go to guy. We have had claims denied before and once the Customers agent got involved, the claim was approved. The problem with Progressive and Geico is, they have no adjusters that have RV experience(At least in the DFW Texas area), so they do not know what to do with the estimates we give them. That is why it is difficult dealing with those 2 companies. Once the Customers Agent gets involved it gets better results. Doug
dougrainer 04/23/15 12:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Troubleshooting Dometic Control Board

1. It is NOT the Heating Element 2. It is NOT the cooling unit 3. It is either the Thermister or the control board. 4. A BAD Thermister will/can still ohm out correctly. 5. You replace the Thermister first and if the freezing continues you replace the control board. Doug
dougrainer 04/22/15 07:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Levelers Need Help Retracting

I had the springs replace two years ago, and about a year ago the jack started retracting slower and slower, until they quit about half way up. I tried what the HWH tech said at a rally, dry silicone spray, but it didn't help. I fabricated a piece of wood with a lever that gets them up, but finally got underneath, cleaned the seals with a toothbrush saturated with WD40, and wiped the jacks with it also. Since then, an occasional cleaning and wiping keeps them operating smoothly. BTW, I'm a full timer, and the jacks get raised/lowered an average of once a week. Personally, I think it's an inherent design problem, and I'm not going to replace any parts until the jacks lock up and won't move. Yes, it IS a design problem, but HWH has corrected the type seals used. That is why you replace the cylinder or have it rebuilt. This problem has been around for over 10 years and HWH has updated the type seals 2 times as the problem does happen on newer cylinders and they updated the type seals again a few years ago. Doug Doug based on what you stated are there years of MH's that we should not buy based on the seal design flaws? Say 3 years or newer they are good, and 3 to 12 years old they are a bad design, older than 12 they are good? Also when HWH rebuilds the cylinders in these years do the replace with a smaller tolerance o ring seal or the same one? As I stated. The problem does happen on units in the past 10 to 13 years old. Not ALL have the problem, that is why over the years HWH has stated various things to do that did NOT correct the problem---Wipe with Silicone/WD40/ATF. Once they received defective cylinders their Engineers determined the failure of the internal seal and redesigned them. Then after a few years, the problem came back but not as bad. They checked and did another redesign of the internal seals. So, the ONLY fix is a rebuild or new cylinder. NOT BUY, due to this type problem???? Not a valid reason to not buy when their are hundreds of thousands of HWH systems out there and the failure is small. The Diagnosis is simple. You extend all 4 jacks for 24 to 48 hours and then retract. If any cylinder does NOT retract within 5 minutes, that cylinder needs replaced/rebuilt. Doug The reason I asked this question is that my system is a 19 year old 200 series joy stick kick down jack which has failed to retract all the way about 3 times in the last 10 years. It retracts to about 4 ins. If I extend the jack and spray silicone on the shaft it works fine. The last time I did this was 2 years ago. I have the original square springs and they retract within 30 secs so it seems very reliable to me. I have been looking at newer MHs and it seems a lot of people post about retracting problems. Your system is NOT affected by this type problem. You "May" have defective seals but that would be from AGE, not a defective seal. A LOT of people post and instead of fixing the problem others argue to just lube or some other silly nonsense. Remember you have 4 jacks and rarely do more than 2 need replaced at any given time. Usually just 1 out of 4. Doug
dougrainer 04/22/15 12:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Levelers Need Help Retracting

I had the springs replace two years ago, and about a year ago the jack started retracting slower and slower, until they quit about half way up. I tried what the HWH tech said at a rally, dry silicone spray, but it didn't help. I fabricated a piece of wood with a lever that gets them up, but finally got underneath, cleaned the seals with a toothbrush saturated with WD40, and wiped the jacks with it also. Since then, an occasional cleaning and wiping keeps them operating smoothly. BTW, I'm a full timer, and the jacks get raised/lowered an average of once a week. Personally, I think it's an inherent design problem, and I'm not going to replace any parts until the jacks lock up and won't move. Yes, it IS a design problem, but HWH has corrected the type seals used. That is why you replace the cylinder or have it rebuilt. This problem has been around for over 10 years and HWH has updated the type seals 2 times as the problem does happen on newer cylinders and they updated the type seals again a few years ago. Doug Doug based on what you stated are there years of MH's that we should not buy based on the seal design flaws? Say 3 years or newer they are good, and 3 to 12 years old they are a bad design, older than 12 they are good? Also when HWH rebuilds the cylinders in these years do the replace with a smaller tolerance o ring seal or the same one? As I stated. The problem does happen on units in the past 10 to 13 years old. Not ALL have the problem, that is why over the years HWH has stated various things to do that did NOT correct the problem---Wipe with Silicone/WD40/ATF. Once they received defective cylinders their Engineers determined the failure of the internal seal and redesigned them. Then after a few years, the problem came back but not as bad. They checked and did another redesign of the internal seals. So, the ONLY fix is a rebuild or new cylinder. NOT BUY, due to this type problem???? Not a valid reason to not buy when their are hundreds of thousands of HWH systems out there and the failure is small. The Diagnosis is simple. You extend all 4 jacks for 24 to 48 hours and then retract. If any cylinder does NOT retract within 5 minutes, that cylinder needs replaced/rebuilt. Doug
dougrainer 04/22/15 09:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Levelers Need Help Retracting

I had the springs replace two years ago, and about a year ago the jack started retracting slower and slower, until they quit about half way up. I tried what the HWH tech said at a rally, dry silicone spray, but it didn't help. I fabricated a piece of wood with a lever that gets them up, but finally got underneath, cleaned the seals with a toothbrush saturated with WD40, and wiped the jacks with it also. Since then, an occasional cleaning and wiping keeps them operating smoothly. BTW, I'm a full timer, and the jacks get raised/lowered an average of once a week. Personally, I think it's an inherent design problem, and I'm not going to replace any parts until the jacks lock up and won't move. Yes, it IS a design problem, but HWH has corrected the type seals used. That is why you replace the cylinder or have it rebuilt. This problem has been around for over 10 years and HWH has updated the type seals 2 times as the problem does happen on newer cylinders and they updated the type seals again a few years ago. Doug
dougrainer 04/22/15 06:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator keeps auto starting ..

Go to the Genset. Look at the cable connections and you will find the REMOTE start wire harness. Disconnect this harness. You can still start the APU at the Genset switch ON the Genset. IF the Genset only starts in transit, you probably have a remote start harness pinched somewhere and while driving the movement of the motorhome is completing the GROUND signal that starts a Genset when the wire gets pinched. By disconnecting you verify that the Genset will not start again until the problem is found. IF it starts after you disconnect the remote harness at the Genset, you have an internal fault at the Genset. The Auto Start feature uses the remote harness to start the Genset, so disconnecting at the Genset will disable this feature. MOST Motorhomes that have Auto Gens start, that feature is NOT enabled from the factory but by the dealership Technicians when delivering the motorhome to you during the walk thru. If NOT addressed at the walk thru, the Genset start is never enabled. Unless optioned, I doubt a Southwind comes with the Auto Genset system. The 2015 Southwind standards and options show NO Auto genset option at all. I doubt you have the option. You have a wiring malfunction causing your problem. Doug
dougrainer 04/21/15 07:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic Refer Too Cold

If you have replaced the Thermister and get the same result, your rear main module is bad. Have you taken the ohm reading AT the 2 wire connector on the rear control board? If that Ohm's correctly your module is bad. Doug
dougrainer 04/21/15 02:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Getting Rid of a Residential Refrigerator

I had to wait. Cannot believe this. Less than 48 hours and 13 pages of responses. 1. A Man asks about going Absorbsion and the Forum Guru's that never met an Absorbsion they like, blast him. 2. People that have and have gone residential act like someone called the kids and wife/husband UGLY in public if you mention Absorbsion. These same people when someone asks for help with their Absorbsion refer, NEVER RESPOND WITH HELP, They just jump on their soapbox and state to hell with you and go residential. If you do NOT, you must be a moron. 3. I DEFEND Absorbsion refers, because unlike 99 44/100% of the people on these forums, I KNOW what the actual risk is in Absorbsion and there is NO real RISK. there is a LITTLE risk but not much 4. Would I prefer Residential. YES! But I do NOT knock Absorbsion or residential, they are equally viable solutions. The plain fact is, Residential is CHEAPER and if people do not boondock much, residential is better way to go. 5. Are residential cheaper in the long run? The jury is still out. MOST of the Hop on the bandwagon Residential people here on this forum do their own work. IF like most RV'ers, you have to pay someone to do the work, residential may cost you for future repairs, but will never rise to the cost of the intial Absorbsion price. So, I charge 2.0 hours($250) to pull and reinstall a residential refer for the Residential repairman to diagnosis and fix. I usually have to remove the doors and such and install the refer on a platform I made to prevent damage to the floor. I pull a residential about once a month for the Service man to diagnosis and fix. Others he can fix without the refer being pulled. Most are warranty or ESC repairs. A few have been Customer pay and have run as high as $600 parts and labor plus my $250 pull and reinstall. AS MORE residential become standard, we will see the longevity of theses refers after running down the road at 70 mph. Doug
dougrainer 04/20/15 08:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New or Used with Warranty?

Your BEST money bet is to buy used as you pointed out about depreciation. There is no such thing as a "used" warranty. What you mean is purchasing an Extended SERVICE Contract(ESC). As with all ESC's you MUST, read ALL the items covered and NOT covered and understand what is and is NOT. ALL policies have different coverages. That is why you will see prices vary widely. IF fulltiming, I would buy an ESC. The odds are when using the RV that much, your ESC will probably be a good bet. Doug
dougrainer 04/20/15 02:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Levelers Need Help Retracting

Extend the rams as far as possible. Wipe the rams down with ATF. With the rams wet with ATF try to retract the rams. It might take 2 or 3 times wetting the rams and retracting to get them to operate. It's a easy try to get them working. I am the original poster of this thread/question. I wanted to report back that I used suggestion above from deereone to wipe down leveling shafts with ATF and it worked extremely well. The leveling shafts retracted very quickly on the first try. Many thanks deereone! Another example where RV.net was a great help to me! Yes, this works for a few days/weeks, then the problem returns. The ONLY correct fix is to rebuild/replace the defective cylinders. Of course it is cheaper to wipe them down all the time with ATF. Doug
dougrainer 04/20/15 10:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help on Finding Tiffin Information: Allegro vs. Phaeton

Phaeton is the entry model. Allegro Bus is the fancier version with more options and more standard equipment. Doug
dougrainer 04/20/15 06:06am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2nd ac unit not coming on

Shouldn't I have 2 thromostats? and what could that 2 wire plug be by the night stand in the bed room.\ As I stated, there is no such thing as a 2 wire tstat. That "may" be the rear Zone temp thermistor wire and the Thermister is missing. You have failed to respond to a request----Does your existing tstat have an LCD screen or does it have black buttons and a black slider temp control? Doug
dougrainer 04/19/15 12:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winterizing Aqua Hot System

If you have AC power, put a couple of trouble lights with 60 watt bulbs in the AH compartment. Been doing it for years, works great, no "dewinterizing" required. UNTIL you have a severe storm that cuts your 120 power, then what do you do? You do NOT need the 60 watt bulbs. Just leave the AH on 120 and THAT keeps the boiler fluid hot and the hot water coil hot and protected(until you have that storm). Doug Haven't lost power in 10 years. I use the bulbs rather than leaving the electric element on due to a weak circuit breaker in my rented space that flips off if anything other than bulbs are put on it. Just because you have NOT lost power does not mean you will not in the future. Those bulbs do NOTHING to heat the copper coil in the Immersion tank of the AH. The copper coil is IN the tank reservoir, not outside. FYI, IF those coils freeze, there is NO REPAIR. Just complete AH replacement. That runs into $6k to $12K depending on the unit, plus about 8 hours labor at $125 per hour. Doug
dougrainer 04/19/15 08:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2nd ac unit not coming on

What size is the Genset ? In many (most?) cases, it will only support ONE AC and not both. If you have a 4K generator that is the case......and you need to be connected to 50 amp shore power to run both. Just the opposite, In many(ALL) cases, the Genset on a 50 amp RV will run BOTH AC units. In many(MOST) cases, IF the Motorhome came with 2 AC units the OEM always installed a large enough Genset to run BOTH AC units. A 5K and larger will run 2 Roof AC units. Doug
dougrainer 04/19/15 07:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2nd ac unit not coming on

NO Dometic Tstat will have 2 wires, so that plug is NOT for a tstat. IF your front tstat has the LCD screen(4 button CCC), THAT controls BOTH AC units. You should see ZONE 1 on the display. You need to push FAN and MODE at the same time to switch between Zone 1(front AC) and Zone 2(rear AC). The BAD news is this, they discontinued the 4 button tstat CCC in 2001 due to problems switching zones and other parameters. So, you may have a problem switching Zones, which is a defective Tstat. They are no longer available and there are some companies that attempt to repair them with good success. The wiring on your tstat is Phone TYPE 4 wire cable, so you CANNOT install any other kind of Tstat except what Dometic offers. Respond if this is what you have and I will go into more detail on your options. Doug Copy and paste this link for your tstat. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ccc.pdf
dougrainer 04/19/15 07:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winterizing Aqua Hot System

If you have AC power, put a couple of trouble lights with 60 watt bulbs in the AH compartment. Been doing it for years, works great, no "dewinterizing" required. UNTIL you have a severe storm that cuts your 120 power, then what do you do? You do NOT need the 60 watt bulbs. Just leave the AH on 120 and THAT keeps the boiler fluid hot and the hot water coil hot and protected(until you have that storm). Doug
dougrainer 04/18/15 02:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacing Air Cleaner Filter Winnebago Journey

You do not state year model. There were a few models years ago that required you cut an access hole in the rear storage compartment to get access to the Clamps to R&R the air filter. POOR design by Winnebago. Is that the reason you ask? Because you cannot figure out how to get it removed? Doug
dougrainer 04/18/15 09:45am Class A Motorhomes
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