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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1129 matches.

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RE: Leveling systems - HWH and then there's ???

You have a 15 year old Motorhome and you are upset because you want to diag and fix yourself and HWH is backlogged for 2 weeks????????? You may be having trouble because you need the HWH system professionally checked out. Remember. the system IS 15 years old. IMO, HWH builds the best of the Levelor systems. Doug No, I am not upset at all. I was just asking a question, which is what this board is all about. We've had problems with this system on and off for over 10 years. Thanks for trying though. Glad to know HWH is considered a good system. You do know that the HWH website has an extensive easy to use service manual for ALL their systems? It gives a step by step procedure for various problems. Doug http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml13514.pdf
dougrainer 07/28/15 03:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Schwintek slides

I too have problems with my Shwintek slide room in my Palomino Solaire. It's scheduled to go back to the dealership (AGAIN) next month. The kitchen slide buckles, pops, won't move in and out smoothly and will not stop running even when the slide is completely out- it sounds like the motors will rip the entire slide room out of the camper if I continue to hold down the switch. I also find metal shavings and the other day found a snap ring on the floor underneath the slide. OEM or not, it really doesn't matter to me. All I know is, I am one of many that are having these ridiculous problems with this type of system in these types of vehicles. Perhaps the Shwintek is simply not a realistic system for campers that are made cheaply and towed around on cheap suspensions. Perhaps the Shwintek is poorly engineered as well- metal gears with aluminum tracks, really? I also dread the day when I have to manually move the room in and have to dig for some control panel to disable the motors. My old camper had a worm gear that I could manually crank in the room securely (not that I ever had to in seven seasons of camping.) You are correct. Schwintek systems are not for inexpensive(cheaply) made RV's, motorhomes or towables. The frame and sidewalls MUST have adequate reinforcement and bracing or the flexing of the frame and/or sidewall will not let the Schwintek do its job. ALL the mechanism does is push and pull the room in and out. Nothing else. ALL room support is supplied my the OEM RV maker. When the Schwintek is removed from the room, 1 person can push the room in and out because the room is supported by numerous floor rollers under the room. 75% of Schwintek problems are the fault of the OEM maker and/or the install by the OEM. Doug
dougrainer 07/28/15 03:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Power Plus Leveling Jacks

Thank you for all of the replys. I guess now you can say "you have heard of Power Plus leveling jacks" dougrainer. It is a good system when it works, one button extend and retract. I have tried all of the numbers I can find.The 668-5511 number is always a recording as is the 750-1611. I have left numerous messages and email s and haven't received any response from them. What good does it do me now if they are out of business????:B Doug
dougrainer 07/28/15 03:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leveling systems - HWH and then there's ???

You have a 15 year old Motorhome and you are upset because you want to diag and fix yourself and HWH is backlogged for 2 weeks????????? You may be having trouble because you need the HWH system professionally checked out. Remember. the system IS 15 years old. IMO, HWH builds the best of the Levelor systems. Doug
dougrainer 07/28/15 10:07am Tech Issues
RE: Engine alternator only charges engine battery

Winne/Itasca used to have a switch on the dash labeled MOM/DUAL. To charge the coach batteries when driving, you MUST have that switch in the DUAL indent. Does your Model have this switch and is that switch switched to the DUAL side? The MOM is spring loaded, but the DUAL side will stay indented in that position. The DUAL side supplies 12 volt power to that charge solenoid/relay. Doug
dougrainer 07/27/15 02:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Duo-Therm Thermostat

The 5 button CCC wall tstat. They are ALL the same. As to Auto Genstart and Heat Pumps and other features, THAT is controlled by other control boards in the RV. But, the only thing the 5 button does is respond to the existing various Dometic control boards and THOSE boards tell the tstat what they do. You buy a new 5 button and then do a reset so it will download the various features of your existing AC/HP control boards. You CANNOT use the current 12 button CCC programmable tstat. The 12 button will not respond to your existing control boards. Doug I just clicked your link. The list of so called features is VERY misleading. Yes, the 5 button has the capability, but ONLY if the other features and control boards are installed on the RV for those features.
dougrainer 07/27/15 02:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold N821 takes FOREVER to get to cool temps

One potential thing that could answer your question. If you are comparing results with and without AC connected I assume your 12v system is not being charged. Without the converter running the lower 12v system voltage may affect the control circuitry for better or worse, including the thermistor circuit. Pure speculation on my part. During my testing, 120V was being supplied to the entire trailer, the fridge as well as 12V via the batteries, just as if it were running as it normally does. Only thing different is that the leads for the heater were supplied 120V separately and without being regulated by the control board. Thanks for the comments. When it ran OK on propane, was the main 120V still supplied but with the fridge manually switched to propane? My point was that the ~13V charging system could be negatively affecting the thermistor detection circuit. Ironically, I just bought a thermistor for my Norcold 621L because it was melting when running on propane but working great on AC. I'm just getting started and I may have a propane issue. I also haven't retested since I removed and cleaned the burner/orifice. I figured it's inexpensive enough and nice to have on hand. I haven't replaced it just yet. You are confusing a THERMISTER with a THERMOCOUPLER/SPARK ELECTRODE. The 12 volt operating range of a RV refer is 11 volts to 14 volts. The 12 volt low or high will not affect the incoming and output voltage to the 120 element. Doug
dougrainer 07/27/15 05:28am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold N821 takes FOREVER to get to cool temps

At 120 volts the 120 element will draw/output 300 watts of heat. At 114 it will be 285 and at 110 it will be 275. Doug Sorry, but not quite correct. Power output of a purely resistive device (like a heater) varies as the square of the voltage (as per Ohm's law). At 114 volts it would be 270 watts and at 110 it would be 252 watts. If really low, say at 105 volts, the output would be (105/120)x(105/120)x300 = 230 watts. Thus a fridge would be operating at 230/300 = 77% of it's nominal cooling capacity. That's why running on low voltage can make a big difference in fridge operation - the lower it gets, the output of the 300 watt heater is exponentially worse. In that case it's better to run on propane. Thank You, I did not know that equation. But, thanks to you, it makes the equation and power of lower voltage even MORE critical. I was taking amps times voltage to get watts, which is how I was taught. Doug
dougrainer 07/26/15 10:43am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold N821 takes FOREVER to get to cool temps

That is why I would want to know the digital amp draw on the 120 volt heat element wiring. Doug I don't have a meter to show amp draw, only volts. At my house, it is about 60 feet from the breaker box to the external garage, then thru 10 ga ext cord another 100 ft to the trailer, then the 30 amp cord about 30 ft to the power center. So the 120 volts at the house is never 120 at the trailer. Usually 114 - 116 on a good day, a few volts less when it's hot with the a/c on. And that's kind of the voltage I see when out camping in the summertime. When that ~114 volts are fed direct to the heating element, I get good cooling. Still don't understand why everyone is saying change the thermistor. The thermistor controls both gas and electric operation the same, and on gas, the fridge works wonderfully and the setting of the temps on gas works wonderfully. So, can changing the thermistor be the solution?? If it is, I would like for someone to explain it to me so I would understand WHY it needs to be changed. I'm not trying to be argumentative, just want to UNDERSTAND. If you don't UNDERSTAND, you don't LEARN. I can take the trailer to the RV replace to have it repaired if I just want it fixed. But I wouldn't LEARN ANYTHING. I agree with your thought. IF it works correctly on LP but not on 120, then do not replace the Thermister. But, you still have a 120 volt supply problem. UNLESS, you have an aftermarket 120 element or an Element that is NOT the correct wattage for your refer. That is why I would want to know the amp draw of the element. Doug
dougrainer 07/26/15 08:51am Tech Issues
RE: Power Plus Leveling Jacks

Interesting. I have been in the RV industry 40 years and 36 as a RV Tech and have NEVER heard or seen the Power Plus system on any RV. They state on their website they have been around for over 35 years. Their website states they are extremely backlogged. Doug
dougrainer 07/26/15 08:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold N821 takes FOREVER to get to cool temps

Ron, In Mexico I could not use electricity to cool my Norcold. Had to use gas 100% of the time. Sal at Kool Fun in Gardena, replaced EVERYTHING TWICE including the cooling unit. Kool Fun rebuilds cooling units. They used new Norcold parts when they attempted and failed to fix mine. So, Sal does NOT know what he is doing. Doug
dougrainer 07/25/15 03:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold N821 takes FOREVER to get to cool temps

Forget what I said at the beginning. As you know, what you find at one point in time proves not to be so (proven by my 8 day camping trip). So here is the situation: Unit does not cool properly on electricity (yes, the voltage is not 120, more like ~114), but it cools very well on gas. You think the thermistor is bad - and it might be - but why does it control properly on gas but not on electric? That's what I'm not getting. If the thermistor is bad, wouldn't there be a control problem on both gas and electric? Yes, if the Thermister was bad, it would not cool correctly on either mode. But, as I stated, LOW 120 voltage will diminish 120 operation. What kind of meter are you using to determine the AC line voltage? I would also want to check the amp draw of your 120 element. They either work or they do NOT work, but in rare(extremely rare) cases, the sleeve that is welded to the burner flue has separated or bad weld and does NOT transmit the heat correctly. At 120 volts the 120 element will draw/output 300 watts of heat. At 114 it will be 285 and at 110 it will be 275. So, in hot climates with lower line voltages, the line voltage can be critical for good 120 operation. That is why I would want to know the digital amp draw on the 120 volt heat element wiring. Doug
dougrainer 07/25/15 03:31pm Tech Issues
RE: HWH leveler problem

Do you mean the PUMP will not run when engaging the right side? OR, the right side jacks do not extend when engaging? If the pump does NOT run, then the problem is in the Joystick electric control plate. Remove the Round knobs and remove the Joystick black cover plate and clean out or blow out the area around the swivel of the Joystick. There may be dirt/debris stopping the electrical contac. Doug
dougrainer 07/25/15 03:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Propane issues in 2015 forest river Georgetown

Down near the floor in the kitchen is an electronic propane gas detector. Just asking - I thought these auto-shutoff systems had been gone since, um, 2005 give or take? I thought I read that somewhere. Am I mistaken? Forest River still uses the Auto/ electric solenoid LP systems. MOST RV makers stopped using them because of failures of the system. But if you get a trickle of LP that means the solenoid is opening. IF the LP appliance is in a slide room the possibility is the rubber LP feed line may be pinched because it was not installed correctly. THAT usually causes this type problem. Doug
dougrainer 07/25/15 03:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold N821 takes FOREVER to get to cool temps

No, not last and final. I went camping in Arkansas for 8 days. Weather was hot 95*-100* and very humid. I started on electricity for the refrigerator and it cooled nicely, but then it seemed to be ineffective, like 50* in the fridge section, and it just wouldn't get colder. So, I thought, what the heck, I'll switch to LPG and see how it goes. IT WORKED GREAT! The lettuce freezes just like it used to do. And I could see that the thermistor was working because on GAS, the temp control worked as it should. So, my conclusion from this camping trip combined with the prior testing that I did (thank you Old Biscuit) is that the board just does not regulate the 110V function properly and I will order and install a new board. I checked with Dinosaur boards but the do not have a replacement to fit my trailer so I will go with a new factory unit. Your conclusion is wrong. The Board does NOT see or care which heat source is cooling. ALL it does is turn the heat source OFF and ON depending on what the Thermister tells the board to do. Remember, LOW 120 voltage will cause LOW performance on 120. If that is happening, then switching to LP will fix that type problem. Doug
dougrainer 07/25/15 06:42am Tech Issues
RE: Converter abbreviations question

Your Radio will be on a circuit that has other 12 volt appliances on that circuit. There are only 4 screws that hold the radio in the cabinet. You will find a ATC fuse on the back of the radio harness. Just pull THAT fuse to kill the radio. If you do NOT see the 4 screws, they are behind the side covers of the radio. Those side covers just pop off, pull them outward. Doug
dougrainer 07/24/15 07:34pm Tech Issues
RE: 06 HR ambassador electrical problem

Inverter is off and still power to wall outlets. Cannot switch from 50amp,it does not change when I try IF you are on 50 amp service, you CANNOT change the amp setting. Are you on 50 amp service? On 50 amp service the amp draw meter will also be blank. It only shows amp draw on Genset and less than 50 amp service. Now, the way your Intellitec "knows/sees" it is on 50 amp service, It "sees" the 2 phase 120 Black and Red power input. Since those 2 leads are out of phase, that is how the Intellitec knows it is on 50 amp service. Now, you indicate you are on 20 amp service, and it shows 50 amp. That IS strange. What type of 20 amp are you on? Home outside receptacle? You can reset the Intellitec system by just disconnecting shore power and turning the battery disconnect OFF for 10 minutes then back on. That will do the same thing as pulling the fuse on the Intellitec module to reset. Doug I should have mentioned, IF you have done nothing to the Intellitec control board or the breakers in the breaker panel and this problem just came up, the odds are the Intellitec module board is bad.
dougrainer 07/24/15 02:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: A/C Tripping breaker

Capacitors START the motor and the compressor. They are not needed/used once the compressor is running. IF the system is tripping the 30 amp also, that points to a defective compressor. The compressor starts and slowly the amp draw rises until it goes over 20 amps. You need to check the amp draw of the compressor as it is running, and monitor for 30 minutes. IF it is over 15 amps, it is defective. Correct - they help start the motor. They are not being used after that but they are always in the circuit so if one were to short while the AC is running, it will stop everything. The cap is not removed from the circuit once the motor starts, it just isn't necessary any more. It has to stay in the circuit to be charged again.I don't understand these explanations. My RVP/Coleman air conditioner has a START capacitor and a RUN capacitor. I expect that all compressor-based air conditioners have the run capacitor and most have the start capacitor. The RVP wiring diagram for mine clearly shows that the start capacitor is removed from the circuit by the start relay, while the run capacitor is in the circuit all of the time. The service manual text also explicitly states this. I know from first-hand experience with other motor-driven devices that when the RUN capacitor fails the motor will draw more current and often pop a breaker. The purpose of the run capacitor is "to give the motors high starting torque and maintain high power factor during running" (quoted from RVP/Coleman service manual). Without the power factor correction the motor has to draw more current to pull its operating power from the power source. You are correct. I should have explained fully. IF the Motor capacitor was BAD, it would not start the motor. But, once the motor is started, it stays in the loop. Doug
dougrainer 07/22/15 01:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Trouble with new AC

I will assume Newmar has used the 3 wall temp probes. Usually the Wall tstat on your model is the Zone 1 temp sensor, but I believe Newmar started to use a separate temp probe like the Zone 2/3 for Zone 1. If so, find that sensor and remove the plastic cover and let the Thermister bulb end hang loose out of the wall hole. IF there is a wire loom clamp over that Thermister bulb, remove it and discard. Then retest your system and let us know if this has eliminated the problem. It will not hurt the fan by this cycling but it is annoying. IF the problem goes away, reinstall the Thermister bulb behind the cover and do NOT use any type clamp over the thermistor bulb end. Doug PS, IF they are Penguin units, then the main control board was also new each time they replaced the Roof top units as Penguins come with a new control board already installed.
dougrainer 07/22/15 09:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: A/C fan quit

1. Can you turn the fan by hand and it freely turns? 2. FIRST thing is to check the Fan start capacitor. This is a common problem on RVP Roof AC units-----Bad Fan Capacitor. Doug
dougrainer 07/22/15 06:01am Tech Issues
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