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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1246 matches.

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RE: Onan 4k microquiet carb

Are you POSITIVE that you have the correct Carb for your Model AND SPEC number? Doug
dougrainer 11/21/17 08:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Onan 4k microquiet carb

I wonder if yours is California CARB unit. Chris, ALL Onan Carbs are California compliant. Onan only builds Carbs that are California compliant. They have done so for over 25 years. They made the decision that it would be impossible to build a Carb for just 1 state. They would have no way to track where the 49 state models would go. Because of this is WHY you cannot buy Onan OEM Carb rebuild Kits for those built for the past 25 years. You can rebuild them, you just cannot buy the internal parts from Onan if you have a bad internal part. Doug
dougrainer 11/21/17 08:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Inverter On or Off

Your model is made by Magnum Energy. Your model is an INVERTER only. NO 12 volt charger. So, to answer your question, DO NOT LEAVE THE INVERTER ON. Only turn it ON when you need to run the Refer when NOT connected to Shore Power. If left ON, then if you lose 120 shore power, the Inverter will drain your existing battery Power in about 24 to 36 hours. Also, I do not advise customers to leave Inverters ON unless you want Inverter Power. The reason? Inverters (stand alone or Inverter/chargers) are out of sight and out of mind. Some RV'ers ALL THE TIME, forget they had the Inverter ON (stand by mode) and when they park to store, the Inverter then is ON and drains the batteries in a few days. How do I know this? Simple. About 75 percent of my motorhome customers drop their unit off for service and after a few days the coach batteries are either DEAD or way below 11 volts. BECAUSE they left the Inverter/Charger ON. They forget. Out of sight and out of mind. Fulltimers rarely have this type problem as they are in their units 24/7. Doug
dougrainer 11/21/17 08:21pm Tech Issues
RE: GFI electrical question?

1. I have NEVER seen an Icemaker trip a GFCI (39 years) 2. I HAVE seen a Refer (RV) trip a GFCI due to a faulty 120 element 3. If you suspect the refer is ON the GFCI circuit, just turn the refer OFF. If the GFCI fault goes away, then replace the refer 120 element/s. Doug PS, if you have NO idea what and how various wires are used/connected. STOP. You can create more problems and when you decide to have a professional look at it, it will be harder for him to get various receptacles wired up. It will increase your bill.
dougrainer 11/18/17 08:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: GFI electrical question?

The FIRST thing you do is disconnect the LOAD side of the GFCI. See if it trips. If it does, then that GFCI (new) is bad. How many wires to you have on the LOAD side of the GFCI? If more than one Black wire, disconnect one set of the Black/White wires and leave the other connected and test again. If you have NO TRIP, then the other set has the problem. If you have just 1 Black/White wire on the LOAD side, you have to go to the other GFCI controlled plugs and disconnect them ALL and then see if the TRIP goes away. If it does, you reconnect until the TRIP happens. Odds are, EACH controlled outlet will have 2 or more sets of wires at its connection. Now, for the OUTSIDE outlet. The only sure way to verify and really test is to pull it out from its receptacle and verify no moisture OR corrosion from moisture. Remember, a GFCI measures the IMBALANCE between the WHITE(neutral) and the BLACK (hot). When imbalanced(Short) it trips the GFCI. There may be GFCI controlled outlets you do NOT know or see on your RV. You have to find them ALL. Doug
dougrainer 11/18/17 03:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: PERPLEXING OVEN PROBLEM

The Pilot ASSBLY has a fault and Suburban can explain the Fault. I just call them with the symptoms and they send me a replacement Pilot assbly. Doug
dougrainer 11/18/17 11:37am Tech Issues
RE: Leak in hydraulic line for rear jack

AP is original P/n. RAP is Replacement P/N. Doug
dougrainer 11/18/17 11:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: PERPLEXING OVEN PROBLEM

Replace the Pilot assbly. Doug
dougrainer 11/18/17 08:17am Tech Issues
RE: Leak in hydraulic line for rear jack

HWH pumps run at 2900 to 3200 PSI. You do NOT have to replace the complete line. IF the Shop has a tool(I do), you can install the metal flare ends on the end of the bad hose in front of the damaged area(cutting out the hose from the jack to the damaged spot) and then just make a short hose to go from the original to that Jack. Saves time and money. Doug I called a Hydraulic shop yesterday and asked about adding a splice fitting where the line was chaffed through by the frame, and what they described to me was a junction fitting that screwed into the cut line with a retaining nut to secure it. They said it works well with Parker hoses. It was about $30 for the fitting and about $200 for the complete line. They could not install it on the MH so the line would have to be removed anyways. Is this what you are describing? Is there a name for this fitting I can give them? No, I have a portable Hydraulic Swagging tool I purchased from HWH 25 years ago. The Metal ends are installed exactly like HWH installs them. HWH no longer sells that tool. There is nothing wrong with cutting out the bad spot and swagging a new fitting on the old hose and making a new hose for the length from the Jack to the bad area. Your other hoses are the same age as the bad one. You going to replace those also? If you follow the thread about NOT using the good part of the old hose. If it was a front Jack, I would replace the complete hose from the jack to the Joystick. The Swagging tool allows me to make HWH hoses to whatever length I need. Doug This is the tool http://www.hwhcorp.com/mr751000.pdf That is a nice tool, it looks like you can use it without removing the whole hose, is that true? Yes, That is the whole purpose of the tool. I use HWH fittings and hose. I can make 1/4 and 3/8 hoses. Doug
dougrainer 11/18/17 08:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leak in hydraulic line for rear jack

HWH pumps run at 2900 to 3200 PSI. You do NOT have to replace the complete line. IF the Shop has a tool(I do), you can install the metal flare ends on the end of the bad hose in front of the damaged area(cutting out the hose from the jack to the damaged spot) and then just make a short hose to go from the original to that Jack. Saves time and money. Doug I called a Hydraulic shop yesterday and asked about adding a splice fitting where the line was chaffed through by the frame, and what they described to me was a junction fitting that screwed into the cut line with a retaining nut to secure it. They said it works well with Parker hoses. It was about $30 for the fitting and about $200 for the complete line. They could not install it on the MH so the line would have to be removed anyways. Is this what you are describing? Is there a name for this fitting I can give them? No, I have a portable Hydraulic Swagging tool I purchased from HWH 25 years ago. The Metal ends are installed exactly like HWH installs them. HWH no longer sells that tool. There is nothing wrong with cutting out the bad spot and swagging a new fitting on the old hose and making a new hose for the length from the Jack to the bad area. Your other hoses are the same age as the bad one. You going to replace those also? If you follow the thread about NOT using the good part of the old hose. If it was a front Jack, I would replace the complete hose from the jack to the Joystick. The Swagging tool allows me to make HWH hoses to whatever length I need. Doug This is the tool http://www.hwhcorp.com/mr751000.pdf
dougrainer 11/17/17 01:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hyper extension of slides?

Some electric slides you can remove the inside flanges and hyper extend the room. You MUST! support the room to keep it from falling over. Most of the time you can install wood braces from the bottom of the room to the heavy steel racks that drive the room out. The room sits on the racks via the wood blocks. You are only going out even with the hole cut out, no more. But, as the other poster stated, you do not have to remove a slide room to replace the flooring. Doug
dougrainer 11/17/17 06:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leak in hydraulic line for rear jack

HWH pumps run at 2900 to 3200 PSI. You do NOT have to replace the complete line. IF the Shop has a tool(I do), you can install the metal flare ends on the end of the bad hose in front of the damaged area(cutting out the hose from the jack to the damaged spot) and then just make a short hose to go from the original to that Jack. Saves time and money. Doug
dougrainer 11/17/17 05:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Leak in hydraulic line for rear jack

HWH jacks have ONLY 1 line per jack. Your system. EACH Jack line goes from the Jack to the JOYSTICK control. NO other lines and they are each separate. NO junction or T. You are confusing the 2 lines that go from the Joystick to the actual reservoir/pump. The Pump has just 1 high pressure line from the Joystick to the Pump. The other line is a larger diameter line and is a LOW pressure line since there is NO pressure when retracting your HWH jacks. Doug There are 5 Pressure lines. 4 lines for the 4 jacks and 1 line from the Pump to the Joystick.
dougrainer 11/16/17 06:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dometic RM2453. LP good, AC freezes, nothing on DC.

1. It is NOT the size wire gauge for SAFETY. It is the SIZE wire gauge to adequately transfer FULL 12 volt power to the refer. The smaller the wire gauge the LESS 12 volt power is transmitted to the 12 volt element. 2. You have as BYPASS tstat. That is why it freezes on 120 and cools correctly on LP. The POINTS in the 120 side of the tstat are welded/stuck together and the unit runs 24/7 on 120. You need a new tstat to fix the 120 problem. IF you have a silver metal capillary tube inside on the evap fins the tstat I linked too is the correct tstat. It is a 120 and LP ONLY tstat 3. Regardless of what the OEM did does NOT make the original install correct. Chinnok motorhomes were about the same size as yours and their Dometic 3 way refers had 8 gauge wire to the refer from the battery. 4. While some 3 ways do have a tstat on the 12 volt side, that does NOT change the fact that the DC element is NOT for cooling down, only maintaining existing cold while in transit. 5. I doubt the element sleeve has come loose. That is extremely rare, I have only seen 1 in 38 years. Doug Your model does have the 12 volt thru the tstat, but this is what the instructions state. Doug DO NOT operate the refrigerator on 12 volt when the vehicle is parked. The amperage draw of the 12-volt DC heating element can discharge a battery in a very short time. The installation of a 12volt DC operated refrigerator requires a relay to be installed on the tow vehicle or in the caravan. The relay will automatically shut off the 12 volt DC power to the refrigerator when the ignition is turned off.
dougrainer 11/13/17 04:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic RM2453. LP good, AC freezes, nothing on DC.

1. MY advice is based on 38 years as an RV tech and still working 2. The SIZE gauge wire to the back of the refer is CRITICAL to 12 volt DC operation IF you do NOT have at least 8 gauge wire, then DC operation is futile. 3. WHAT size gauge wire is to the refer? 4. What Year refer is this? Does the refer have an auto ignition LP flame or do you have to manually click it to light? Doug Look at this link. Is this your tstat? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-2931336016-RV-Refrigerator-Thermostat-RM2453-RM2322-RM2333-/391386035328
dougrainer 11/13/17 02:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic RM2453. LP good, AC freezes, nothing on DC.

As I stated, the tstat has no relation to the DC element. The DC element is wired direct. BECAUSE, the DC element is a maintainer of existing temp. It is NOT designed to cool DOWN the refer. Now, the same tstat operates in both Gas and 120 mode. IF it operates on LP it will operate the same on 120. The ONLY variable for 120 operation is the line voltage. If too low(below 108) then the refer will not operate correctly on 120. Same if the LP burner is dirty or the LP pressure is NOT at 11.5 inches W/C. So you need to recap. 1. Does the refer operate on LP correctly? 2. Does the refer operate on 120 correctly? 3. If one mode does not, state what it does not do correctly 4. HOW are you attempting to operate on DC? Camped or in transit? Doug
dougrainer 11/13/17 05:47am Tech Issues
RE: Auto Transfer Switch?

That switch is part of the Parralax Converter box and chassis. This link will show what it looks like removed from the Chassis. Inside is a RELAY with the Shore Power and Genset wires connected. Then there are the 3 wires that leave it and connect to the 120 Breaker panel. Doug To look at it, just remove the 4 screws holding the Converter chassis to the cabinet and pull it out as a complete unit. Remove those top 2 screws and the ATS cover comes off. http://www.parallaxpower.com/ats301-transfer-switch-ats301
dougrainer 11/12/17 06:28pm Tech Issues
RE: IOTA ITS-50R Transfer Switch Failure

If NO Genset, there is no reason to install a ATS. Hardwired with rated wire nuts is OK. I hope he also wire nutted and taped off the 3 feeds from the Genset compartment. If someone added a genset in the future, those wires will be hot when the genset is started. I would put a note on the Geset area wiring 120 box that the ATS has been removed for any future owner or repair Tech. Doug
dougrainer 11/12/17 11:12am Tech Issues
RE: Filling Propane Tanks

Since people do not care to research the issue, here is a simple version of what can happen with a slightly overfilled tank and THIS has happened and documented. A lot of RV'er transport 20 or 30 lb DOT tanks in there Motorhome or Towable(usually 5th wheels) storage. So, it is 70 degrees when filled and they overfill the DOT tank and you throw it in the RV and take off. You go to a climate that is 95 plus and camp out. The interior storage heats up and the LP heats up. Then its system blow out valve opens and spews LIQUID LP inside your RV. What happens when that LP reaches an Ignition source? There are lots of them inside and up in a RV. Most would blame the Norcold 1200 refer if it had one:B Same thing can happen in your enclosed Pick up bed or the trunk or interior of your car. I have seen enough REAL evidence in 40 years that I believe what Texas mandates and what we practice is the BEST way to handle LP. Doug
dougrainer 11/12/17 11:10am Tech Issues
RE: Filling Propane Tanks

I find it funny a person from OREGON defending an unsafe LP fill practice. HIS state (New Jersey also) has not allowed their own drivers to fill their Auto's for almost 70 years as an UNSAFE practice. This is what Oregon stated in 1951 to pass the Law. "Back in 1951, when Oregon first mandated that only trained station workers could put "Class 1 flammable liquids" into cars, the state mainly didn't want people accidentally blowing things up". So, HOW many people in the other 48 states have blown themselves UP in 70 years filling the Auto Gas tanks????? :B Stay in Oregon and let the rest of us live normal lives:W Doug
dougrainer 11/12/17 11:04am Tech Issues
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