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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1387 matches.

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RE: Electric Fireplace or AC/Heat pump

RV electric fireplaces are about 5000btu and heat ONLY in the location area of the Fireplace. A Roof top RV HP will be either 13,500 or 15,000 BTU of heat and will distribute that heat more evenly thru out especially if ducted. The fireplace will pull about 12 amps versus about 13 to 15 amps of the roof HP. So, it is better to have the dollars spent on a HP. Doug
dougrainer 12/21/14 11:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Atwood A/C with heatpump operation question

Thanks guys, It is the inside fan that is coming on and off. It may be just sampling the air temp. To determine if heat is required. It is the first time I have needed the heat function. Will call manf. According to my post with the actual Atwood operation instructions, your HP is doing as designed. Doug
dougrainer 12/21/14 11:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Atwood A/C with heatpump operation question

You will need to contac Atwood. I have 35 years as a RV Tech and have NOT seen the Atwood on any of the RV's we service. Dometic just bought out Atwood and it will be interesting to see if they continue the Atwood refers and AC/HP brand. When you state 2 fans. RVP also has the 2 fan system. 1. Small fan for the Condensor and the other normal size fan for the inside whole has air. BOTH operate continuously when the compressor is ON. If the compressor cycles OFF, then the condenser fan shuts off also. 2. So, if the upper condenser fan is the fan that starts and stops, then I would say that is NOT normal unless the compressor is also stopping and starting at the same rate as the fan, which IMO is not normal also. Doug PS. AMAZING WHAT YOU FIND WHEN YOU READ THE OPERATOR MANUAL:D below from the manual After the delay, the compressor will start. Usually the fan will stop and will not re-energize until the heat exchanger has warmed and then the fan will start to blow warm air. - The unit will heat in the heat pump mode in ambient temperatures above approx. 45°F. The furnace will automatically engage at ambient temperatures below approx. 45°F
dougrainer 12/21/14 09:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: I solved my air flow problems

Good fix, but one thought. I think a lot of RV's use this ducting system that runs the length of the coach so that when on 30 amp and only one A/C is available, you can get some A/C to all portions of the coach. In your situation, 3 A/C's, if you were stuck somewhere on 30 amp, you will have blocked off the ability to provide air to the rest of the coach when running the center A/C unit. I'm guessing in your coach and how you use it, 30 amp camping is not a common thing....same with us, but others may run into an issue by blocking the ducting to the center unit. A neat solution by Newmar would be some powered baffles that could be turned on and off if there is limited amperage. These ducting systems are so small and crammed into a roofline, that they're hard to build effective baffling systems. The biggest issue is that there just isn't enough room in the roof of these RV's to make baffling and ducting that works well.That's a great point. I hadn't thought of that. But since I simply stuffed the insulation in there, I guess I could just pull it back out if necessary. How about a pillow baffle that would deflate when needed on 30 amp? It wouldn't require much room for mechanical systems at all. Yes, what you did "fixed" the kitchen problem, but Newmars Duct design has been the same for 20 years. Regardless if 1 or 2 or 3 roof AC's. As a Newmar dealer Service tech for 20 years, I have never seen or had such a problem as you found except for my last part of this post. As the other poster stated, you have made your unit a true 3 zone separate system. As he pointed out, you HAVE to have each AC running for your blocked off Zone for that zone to supply cool/heat. While what you did has "fixed" the problem, it is NOT a correct long term fix. You need to contac Newmar and find out what the real problem is as it is NOT correct for a Newmar product. Years ago, Newmar DID have a problem with collapsed ductwork and had to have the complete insulated ductwork replaced on affected coaches. This required removing the roof top (rubber or fiberglass) and removing and installed the new duct assbly's. Also, IF the required roof AC gasket separator is not installed correctly(seperates the intake from the exhaust) then you will get diminished air flow out of the AC. The only way to verify this is to pull the roof AC, have you had any of the roof AC units pulled or replaced? Doug
dougrainer 12/20/14 03:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Day Two Trip Home, Aqua Hot Problem

X3 on stuck check valve... tapping on them will usually fix. Can you get heat out of the bedroom and bath zones? If so run them and the dash heat to stay warm until you get home and then worry about getting the front to work. We did not mention the learn curve on these things can be a challenge. Did not want to scare you and hopefully the multiplex system will not give you problems. In a year you'll look back and say... that wasn't so bad.:B This is a common problem on Aqua hot units. To stop the problem it is best to run the furnace zones for a few minutes once a month. This keeps the Zone check valves from sticking. Doug
dougrainer 12/20/14 03:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Slide Problem on Fleetwood Discovery

Install a 25 amp auto reset 12 volt circuit breaker. That way, you do not have to keep replacing the fuse when it blows. Once that is done, you can troubleshoot. Usually, on this type problem on Fleetwoods, the MOTOR is bad. Replace it. It is just plain worn out. There is nothing but the motor from the rear control board that has the fuse. IF the room extends and retracts with no obvious binding, then the motor is bad. Doug
dougrainer 12/20/14 10:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Propane fuel gage

There are two places to take the reading: at the gauge by the tank, or reading at your monitor panel. When the tank is filled correctly by a knowledgeable person you should see "full" on the monitor panel. The needle on the gauge by the tank may actually read somewhere above 3/4 full since the tank requires a 20% vapor space. The monitor with readings of: empty, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and full are actually showing the reading when the tank liquid level is near the sensor mark. That means the "full" reading LED will go out rather soon since the tank should only be at 80% (liquid). Remember that you when you see "3/4 full" it means the tank is somewhere between 3/4 and full (just below the 75% level when first noticed). When 3/4 LED goes out and you see 1/2 full you are somewhere in between. Thing to remember is that you would only know it is somewhere over 1/2 full. Unless someone checks often and happens to catch the 3/4 LED just go out you do not know you just went below 75% level. The needle-gauge at the tank tends to read lower. I play it safe and tend to refill the tank soon after the monitor looses the 1/2 full LED. If propane is not available close to my location I make sure I refill when the tank gauge needle is dropping close to 1/4 reading. Not completely true. Filling a ASME tank to full will result in the TANK gauge to show that 75% to 85%. Which is the correct liquid volume. Now, to the INSIDE monitor panel readout. It depends on the brand/model of the Monitor panel system. Some systems (the majority) have either E-1/4-1/2-3/4/F or E/1/3-2/3-F. These type systems will NEVER read full unless the tank has been overfilled or the RV is leaning to the LP tank side and the liquid float is higher than level. Some systems have an adjustable (pot) screw on the monitor panel and those you can fill the tank to 80% and then manually calibrate the remote readout to JUST the FULL light. Doug
dougrainer 12/20/14 07:28am Tech Issues
RE: Problem with norcold on gas..

I would replace the Spark Electrode/wire assbly. The odds are the ceramic insulator around the metal electrode has hairline cracks and is "leaking" current/spark instead of at the electrode tip. But, you should smell the accumulation of unburnt LP when you go out and check it. Gas valves rarely fail, I cannot remember replacing a refer gas valve(Dometic or Norcold) in the past 10 or more years for failure to operate. Long shot is, when you remove the spade terminal from the Black Piezo tower on the control board, you MUST use something to hold the Black Piezo tower in place. Failure to do that and attempting to pull the spade off the Piezo will cause the 4 solder pins that mount the Piezo to the board to pull loose and cause either failure or intermittent failure. The good news is, if this has happened, you can remove the control board and solder those 4 points instead of replacing the board. That Black Piezo transmits the hi voltage spark signal and also processes the return flame ac signal signifying that the flame is on. So, if the solders are loose it will cause intermittent problems. Doug
dougrainer 12/20/14 07:20am Tech Issues
RE: Does the engine alternator charge house batteries?

ALL motorhomes except 1 model of the old Alfa charge both banks from the chassis alternator. On Monaco, the lower lines did not have the Shore power chassis charge module, but, you could buy the module from Monaco and plug it into the LF storage fuse panel, as it had the quick connect and a spot to mount it. Doug
dougrainer 12/19/14 04:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dometic AC Compressor won't stay running

As you figured out, you need the clamp on Amp meter to watch the compressor amps and what those amps are in that 20 to 30 seconds. Once the compressor starts there is no reason to suspect the start capacitor because it did its job. There is a limit on the compressor and the odds are your compressor is bad. The amp draw will show you that. IF the amps do not go over 15 amps and the compressor still kicks off, then the Freeze control is probably defective. IF you have a system doing what you have, then the compressor should attempt to start every few minutes. If not, that points to something telling the compressor to not start---The freeze sensor. Since you full time, a freeze sensor is cheap and easy to replace. I would do that regardless of your amp meter. Take that out of the loop by replacing it. You can also trace the freeze sensor to where you can separate the 2 wires and cut the wires and splice them together on the circuit board side. That will bypass the freeze sensor. Doug Since you have 2 units, just swap the freeze sensors.
dougrainer 12/19/14 12:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Problem with norcold on gas..

What is the fault code? "F" which means NO flame. Gas valves either work or they don't. Has the OP verified the LENGTH of the spark at the burner? It may be sparking, but the spark may be weak from to close of a gap. Does the OP smell LP when it fails? The refer should attempt to light 3 times before it shuts down. Does it try 3 times and if so, you will really smell LP at the back of the refer IF the gas valve is opening each time. Is the OP positive that when it attempts relight that the spark he hears is AT the burner(may be bad electrode wire OR bad ceramic on the electrode case which will bleed the spark current away from the burner). Doug
dougrainer 12/19/14 08:22am Tech Issues
RE: Dometic fridge door

Are you POSITIVE that there is nothing that is hitting the door on the inside. I have had numerous times that customers come in and when I look inside, they have a shelf or some type item that is hitting one of the door trays and will not allow that door to freely pull tight and allow the magnet to do its job. Doug
dougrainer 12/19/14 08:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: furnace reset

What your wife did should NOT have shut the furnace down. I think it was a coincidence. Intake or interior exhaust vent blockage will not shut a furnace down. It might kick out the over temp switch, but that switch will auto reset unless defective. IF it does trip and not reset, the furnace will still come on and attempt to fire 3 times before shutting down. If your furnace fan does not come on at all, then either the furnace fuse is blown OR on some models, they do have a 12 volt circuit breaker inside the furnace that must be manually reset. So, check all you coach 12 volt fuses at the fuse panel. IF you have the model furnace that has an outside access door, remove it and you will see a schematic and also that circuit breaker if you have one. Doug
dougrainer 12/19/14 08:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Intermittent Problem with Fridge

The rear cooling is probably your problem. What you need to do is verify that when the temp rises and you do have flame or the 120 is hot, IF you do not hear the fan then the fan tstat is intermittent. Common problem for Dometic rear fan tstats to fail. What you can do if you have easy access to the top outside side vent, remove it and you will see the fan tstat on the condenser coil, Install a 2 wire jumper to the tstat and run down the back side to the rear bottom. Then connect those wires together to run the fan continuously when this problem happens. You can also leave the jumper wire connected to run the fan 24/7 and your refer will be more efficient. Also, make sure the area above the condenser fins(ceiling) has a baffle or curved roof baffle to direct all the air out of the upper vent door. ANY gap that goes above the rear access door will allow hot air to stay trapped and you will lose some cooling efficiency. If not properly roof baffled, then when the fan fails to run, the convection hot air cannot be driven out the top and will cause the cooling unit to not operated correctly. Doug
dougrainer 12/18/14 07:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Intermittent Problem with Fridge

1. Temp rise on your model will not cause any indication or beeping. 2. IF there is a failure, you will get a flashing LED stating what has failed 3. Should the door be kept open for too long (more than 2 minutes), the blue external LED starts flashing until the door is closed. Only with AES models an acoustic signal is initiated (pulsing whistle tone). ?? Should the electronic control detect any failure, an acoustic signal will sound (pulsing whistle tone) for 30 seconds (only with AES models). It is repeated every hour, if the fai lure is not resolved. At the same time the display starts flashing (for trouble-shooting, please refer to section 4.13). 4. For a problem like this you usually disconnect the Temp Thermister which will cause the refer to run full time. Then see if it stops cooling in your parameters problem. IF so, then replace the Thermister. 5. Does your model have the optional rear cooling fan? Not ALL of this model will have the rear cooling fan. If you have the fan, then your fan Tstat may be defective. Doug
dougrainer 12/18/14 01:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Intermittent Problem with Fridge

Check your converter and coach batteries first. The fridge needs good constant 12 volt for the thermostat to work irregardless of what mode you are using. My fridge would come on and you think it was working but then later on it would not cool. What happens is the fridge reaches the temp set and shuts off like it should. Only thing is if there is a 12volt problem the thermostat won't work and the fridge can't come back on. Fools a lot of dealership repair shops. Doesn't get past a good mobile RV repair guy though. Mine was low 12 volt from bad converter that actually was boiling my batteries. Henceforth my AC and fridge would come on but couldn't come 'back on' when the thermostat called for it. Dealership just wanted to replace both.:S Mobile Repair guy said otherwise. Was a big learning experience for me how things work in an RV and how to always call a Mobile RV repair man! :B How much did the Dealership Service dept charge you for their diagnosis and why did you not have them do the repair? Doug
dougrainer 12/18/14 11:00am Tech Issues
RE: Awning placement question

Your awning is mounted as designed. It is supposed to be higher. That valley is on all roll up awnings. If you do not want to store it that way, you can remove the bottom stop washer/screw and stops on the outer arms. You can then roll the awning out 6 inches, drop the outer arm down a few inches and then retract. This will cause the awning to NOT roll up tight but will allow you to have that slope. Just remember to reinstall the side arm stop bolt/washer in the spring and put the awning back to correct install. A lot of work for something that is not really needed. Doug
dougrainer 12/17/14 03:17pm Tech Issues
RE: massive 12 volt battery issues

Didn't have time to check things last night, but I did get the name and model of converter: Atwood Mobile products converter/charger STV 75 So, if no shore power, cord unplug, does the 12 volt system have to go through the converter. Basically, if the converter is bad can you still run the 12 v system? If so, then my disconnect is not working. That was not Factory installed, someone else installed in the past 20 years. Doug
dougrainer 12/17/14 06:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: massive 12 volt battery issues

Didn't have time to check things last night, but I did get the name and model of converter: Atwood Mobile products converter/charger STV 75 So, if no shore power, cord unplug, does the 12 volt system have to go through the converter. Basically, if the converter is bad can you still run the 12 v system? If so, then my disconnect is not working. If the Converter is bad, your Disconnect MUST be working and the red LED on the disconnect switch must be on for the coach batteries to supply power. IF you have 12 volts in the RV when plugged into shore power, your Converter IS working. Find the disconnect Intellitec solenoid up front, all you have to do is use a 4 gauge jumper wire from each large side terminal to bypass the solenoid. Doug
dougrainer 12/17/14 06:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Questions about slide-out room on DP motor home

That type assbly is on older Monaco/HR Diesels. It is a lock assbly that engages when the room fully retracts. Doug
dougrainer 12/15/14 08:07pm Class A Motorhomes
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