RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1069 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 54  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: toilet help needed

Dometic did not say whether or not they want the toilet back. I'm supposed to contact the lady once I have completed repairs and let her know. Thanks for the explanation on how the toilet works I guess I'm having a hard time with "that's how they work" when my first toilet had instant water. The Dometic was supposed to be a better toilet. The new one is supposed to be delivered soon so i will update when I find out anything. thanks again I forgot. They NEVER want them back. They are classified as a hazard, due to the Waste issue. Doug
dougrainer 02/10/16 06:51pm Tech Issues
RE: toilet help needed

Those 2 screws are NEVER installed by Dometic when built. Those screws are supplied when you replace the water inlet valve and you use them when you replace the valve. ALL those screws do is make sure the new valve does not "pop" loose since the original is a plastic catch type system. I would suspect this water valve is defective or has some type of debris in it. But, Dometic has built thousands of these model toilets and that is a new complaint, that I also have never heard of. They sent a new toilet because I assume they want the old back to test it? Or did they just state to throw the old away? Doug
dougrainer 02/10/16 10:20am Tech Issues
RE: Plugged toilet metering hole

A caveat- the filter you have pictured is for the suction side of a pump- it is not rated for pressure. That filter connects to the input side of the water pump. IF you do NOT have one installed now, INSTALL one and that will prevent any future plastic problems from the Fresh tank. Doug
dougrainer 02/10/16 05:58am Tech Issues
RE: Plugged toilet metering hole

If it was plastic from the fresh tank, ALL your Faucets and the Toilet would be plugged up. I see this all the time and it is hard mineral deposits. It looks like plastic, but is really minerals. If you want to use some type filter, I would use the standard Canister Filter a lot of RV's use and install at the outlet section to the Water Pump. That way, ALL water is filtered. Doug https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-6025-culligan-rvf-10-rv-water-filter-system.aspx?utm_source=Googlebase&utm_medium=Feed&utm_campaign=Product&utm_term=RVF-10&gdftrk=gdfV213098_a_7c3846_a_7c14580_a_7c6025_11076_0&gclid=CJ76xcX56soCFQgcaQodiRQGeQ
dougrainer 02/09/16 08:02am Tech Issues
RE: Hydraulic Leveler Not Retracting All the Way

If you are in a place with cooler temps, the jacks will retract slower then during the hot Summer. If you just cannot get it to retract all of the way, you can put a bottle or scissors jack underneath it and use that to push the cylinder up to a full retraction. Cooler climate will indeed slow the retract time, but if you have to use any other means other than the springs to fully retract you have a defective jack. Doug
dougrainer 02/08/16 09:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hydraulic Leveler Not Retracting All the Way

We struggled for a few years with one that wouldn't come up, then another. Changed springs.. worked for a while. They would drop slightly while driving so I would unplug the the system at the control box under the hood opening to shut off the alarms. Had to use a 2X4 to lever up two of the jacks.. Finally got tired of doing it and had the jacks removed and I sent them to HWH to be rebuilt. The removal and installation upon return cost 250.00 and HWH charged 750.00 to rebuild them. I painted them myself because HWH wanted 20.00 each to paint them. They work fine now. Wow thanks for the input I wonder what the life expectancy is? Seems like maybe electric would be the better choice in the long run? We never had any problems with our levelers on the Fleetwood Pace Arrow 2007 thru 2016 except minor one time towards the end of 2014. HWH charged $750 to rebuild 4 jacks. IF you have Electric jacks, just 1 jack will cost more than $750 to replace. Electric jacks are NOT reliable and cost more to fix when they break. That is why you rarely see Electric leveling jacks on motorhomes in the past 5 to 7 years. Doug
dougrainer 02/08/16 09:06am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hydraulic Leveler Not Retracting All the Way

I have a 1993 coach with the HWH levelers and all have their original springs. I can't help but think a slow retracting leveler is due to something else, such as dirty fluid, closed valve or dirty jack. I spray mine with silicone fluid just before retracting. The fluid seems to keep the seals lubricated, although I would assume MD3 fluid (automatic transmission fluid) would do the same, if not better. I changed the fluid several years ago as a preventive measure. it takes about a gallon if I remember correctly. I also lubricate the zert fittings and spray the moving/pivoting parts with silicone spray. Remember to check the manual release valves on top of the pump to make sure they are closed. You must have KICK DOWN jacks. Totally different parameter and animal from the more common Straight jacks. You do NOT have to change the fluid. There is nothing to contaminate the fluid. But, some feel better doing that. Doug
dougrainer 02/08/16 06:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dometic 2852 Refridgerator - Manual Override.

my dometic will get to about 38-41. when using refrig it creeps up to 43. I was looking at manual and it says In AUTO mode operation, the temperature is controlled by a single temperature setting. B. MANUAL MODE When operating in the MANUAL mode, the AUTO mode indicator lamp (A) will be off, and the refrigerator will run continuously on the energy source selected by the control system. I do not have a manual option. only auto, and gas. when on gas I think it to would be controlled by the auto temp of about 40. so if I want colder I can try the dino thermistor. also when on gas it does not always re ignite and goes to check. is it difficult to change the igniter unit out. What model number and year model RV? There is NO manual mode I am aware of on a Dometic refer in the past 20 years. The AUTO just means it will operate on 120 volts if 120 is available and will AUTO go to LP when 120 is NOT available. The LP mode means (or releasing the Auto button and it is OFF) just means the refer will run on LP all the time even if 120 ac is available. ALL modes are Thermister (tstat) controlled. Doug
dougrainer 02/07/16 01:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Hydraulic Leveler Not Retracting All the Way

You should have HWH jacks. Go to the TOP of the offending jack and you will see a 2 wire quick connect. That is the DOWN light magnetic switch. DISCONNECT that switch and the light will go off. You can also Start the engine, put the system is STORE, take 6 or 8 foot 2x4 as a lever and you can lever the offending jack fully up. Since you have a 2008 model, the problem is defective inner jack seals and that jack will need rebuilt or replaced. Doug
dougrainer 02/07/16 09:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Adding LP oven

Older RV's (more than 10 years) usually have the drawer/s under the cook top. Those drawers are removed and the cabinet pieces cut out between the drawers to install a Oven/cooktop. They usually made sure those drawers will be the same size as the Oven as they did not make cabinets for just a Range only. They did not want to make 2 separate cabinets because they did not know what the final option would be(Range or Oven combo). You will not be able to use your old Range top. You will install a combo. I would NOT buy from a salvage yard but buy a NEW Combo unit. There is NO adapters needed for the LP. You use the same LP line that is on the Range Top and that LP line will connect just as before. The cabinet will NOT have to be beefed up. The Range AND the Oven are supported by the counter top. Most OEM's will install a wood panel UNDER the Range or Oven and you can use the existing panel under the range and drop it down far enough to mount under the new Oven. Doug
dougrainer 02/07/16 06:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Kwikee Step Linkage Kit Install

Here is the EASY way to replace either the motor or the linkage. When you remove the motor/linkage, make sure the linkage is not fully extended or retracted. Operate the motor by having someone open or close the door and once the linkage starts to move, disconnect either the motor connection or (easier) the 4 way quick connect. That stops the linkage halfway. The steps should be able to go in and out with just using your fingers. IF THEY DO NOT FREELY FLOP IN AND OUT, THE STEP IS RUSTED AND THE STEP ARM LINKAGES NEED LIQUID WRENCH TO FREE THEM UP. Then it is a easy task to then get the pin into the linkage to the step pivot. You never have to loosen or remove those concentric side lock adjustment pivots. Doug
dougrainer 02/06/16 07:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Suburban Furnace exterior vent types (with pic)

That lip won't keep out more than a drop of rain. It is there to allow the install of a bug shield, which hangs on the lip and is secured by a spring. The difference in length is probably to allow it to fit in the new furnace and not the old one. Chuck The lip isn't there to "allow the install of a bug shield." The furnace manufacturers specify in their manuals to never block the exhaust or intake of the furnace with anything, including screens. Wow, Most every RV supplier out there, including Amazon must be totally unaware of that, including us and most RV's we have seen. http://www.amazon.com/JCJ-M-200-furnace-Outside-Fitting/dp/B0002UHWIG Chuck Aftermarket suppliers could not care what their products may do to a appliance. Suburban/Atwood/Dometic/Norcold all state to NOT add bug screens to the outside vents. The REASON is- they do not want the instake side to pull in weeping willow type debris that would block off the correct amount of fresh air required to get the LP to air mixture in correct burn proportion. On Refers, those screens block OFF up to 50% of the cool fresh air needed to correctly cool the refer. They all state adding those screens voids the warranty. I advise my customers to remove the screens when they come in if they have a problem with the appliance under warranty. We do not void if they have those screens and they are clear of debris. I have NEVER seen any real build up on those screens in all the years I have worked on RV's. Doug
dougrainer 02/05/16 07:40am Tech Issues
RE: Outside entertainment compartment leak

Weep hole are NOT installed to drain condensation off the inside of the windows. They are installed because most windows are slider windows and when raining or washing, water can enter and fill up the glass slide felt track. The weep holes allow that water to drain outside and not fill up the track and overflow into the inside of the RV. Also, most have a Weep hole plastic cover and some do not. This is to prevent in transit air from pushing water inside and prevent whistling noise from the in transit air rushing over the slit in the windows. To the OP, GET that RV to a Bounder dealer and get the Cause fixed before more damage happens from more rain. They will determine if the Window gasket is correct or not. Doug
dougrainer 02/05/16 07:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dometic Refrigerator quit

I am having a hard time finding a replacement, I am going to call Dyers to see if they can help.Leave it to me to have an appliance with a very hard to find replacements..It is really irritating..!!Dyers has 6,,only $171.96 each!!!!!!The replacement is 3851005011. Dometic does not have it?????????? Doug
dougrainer 02/04/16 06:34am Tech Issues
RE: power leveling jacks

It really depends a lot on the type of jacks you have. I have the HWH series 200 kick down jacks and have rolled forward several times. One time I pulled into a campground after dark and could not tell how unlevel the site was and rolled backwards and jamed the rams into the dirt and grass and they would not fully retract until I cleaned and lubed them. It is quite scary when a 16,000 lb MH rolls of the jacks. They ARE designed to roll off with no damage. They are NOT designed to roll off with no damage. Granted, you may not experiance damage, but they are not designed to do that. Kick Down HWH jacks are designed to gently drive FORWARD to drive off. IF the Motorhome moves rearward, you will destroy the jacks if they go to far. They are NOT designed to roll backwards. They will lock and break or damage something. Doug Not according to HWH when this happened to me I called them and they told me they were designed to roll backwards and forwards and not fail. I spent quite a bit of time with their tech on getting the pistons cleaned and working again. That was 6 years ago nothing broke and they still work fine. I know you disagree with silicone spray but he told me to clean them with silicone spray or WD 40 with I use once a year to keep them retracting quickly. You misunderstood what they told you. You CANNOT roll backwards or drive backwards with Kick Down jacks. THERE IS NO PIVOT TO ALLOW THAT GOING BACKWARDS. It will damage the jacks and mounts. Doug(working on HWH for 30 years and HWH factory trained).
dougrainer 02/04/16 06:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: power leveling jacks

All sound like very logical explanations and they make sense. But why would the engineers, the same folks that tell you not to raise the wheels off the ground, engineer and attach them in a way that you can? More to the point, allow them to lift the coach off the ground but be under-engineered in way to allow for lateral failure. And why does the auto level feature ignore this "rule"? I've had mine lift off the ground in auto mode. Hydraulic rams for the most part aren't terribly expensive or complicated. Beefier ones could be installed pretty easily to prevent this type of failure. The auto feature has no idea and there is no way for that feature to know if a tire comes off the ground. The auto feature, if just one jack reaches its maximum extension will shut the system down because the system knows that 1 jack has reached its maximum extension and if that corner needs to go up to level it cannot and shuts the system down. As to your mention of why engineers "allowed" the design. YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO READ THE OPERATORS INSTRUCTIONS AND THEY STATE TO NOT ALLOW A TIRE TO LEAVE THE GROUND. Doug
dougrainer 02/03/16 06:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: power leveling jacks

It really depends a lot on the type of jacks you have. I have the HWH series 200 kick down jacks and have rolled forward several times. One time I pulled into a campground after dark and could not tell how unlevel the site was and rolled backwards and jamed the rams into the dirt and grass and they would not fully retract until I cleaned and lubed them. It is quite scary when a 16,000 lb MH rolls of the jacks. They ARE designed to roll off with no damage. They are NOT designed to roll off with no damage. Granted, you may not experiance damage, but they are not designed to do that. Kick Down HWH jacks are designed to gently drive FORWARD to drive off. IF the Motorhome moves rearward, you will destroy the jacks if they go to far. They are NOT designed to roll backwards. They will lock and break or damage something. Doug
dougrainer 02/03/16 06:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: power leveling jacks

Just curious, I've been in situations where my tires were off the ground and never had an issue. I mean where is the RV going to go? It's still on the ground via the jacks. The jacks have a footprint about equivalent to a tire. The jacks would have to laterally collapse and then it would drop to the tires anyway. I seriously doubt there is a risk of it skiing down a hill on the jacks. And they will only extend so far thus inhibiting you being on a step enough incline for an issue to occur. Sorry I just never understood the "tires have to be on the ground" thinking. I see lots of folks at CGs all the time with tires off the ground. I've never seen an issue where it took off because of it. Not trying to be crass, I've just never seen or heard of an actual issue. If you use your jacks, and then add boards under your tires, what's the point of the jacks? You might as well just have leveling boards and drive up on them. It depends on the type jacks. If you have HWH kick down jacks and you lift the weight of the motorhome off the tires, the motor home will then shift FORWARD as the jacks are forced to flip on the Kick down pivot point. If the slope is great enough, if you lift the tires off the ground, the motorhome CAN slide that downward slope a little bit and then the jack pistons usually bend a little. Then you cannot get them fully up. You last statement is kind of lame. Which is easier-- 1. Putting extra boards UNDER the jacks to get more lift? 2. Or getting out and adding a slope to then attempt to drive onto a bunch of boards? I think the answer is obvious. BUT, you NEVER lift tires off the ground. ALWAYS install support boards under the tires(front) if you do that. The reason is, IF one of those jacks developes a leak or starts a retract, that corner will then come down and put a stress and possibly harm the frame or pop or crack a windshield if in front. With boards under the tires the boards will support that corner if a jack fails. Doug
dougrainer 02/03/16 01:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Loss of partial power

Nope only single pole solenoid. After looking at my salesman cut off switch after I bypassed it there is 5 leads on it. wonder if when bypassing solenoid if that eliminated the power supply? Trying to find new switch to replace old one,nobody stocks and factory has $99. min order. Hope Monaco can help find in the am. Thanks for all the good advise so far. Still have not found my power loss for wash mach. Only one GFI on coach that I can find. It is working. Will pull receptical tomorrow and check if it is ok. Since it is a plumbing fixture, I would think that your washer should be on a GFI circuit. Washers are not required to be on a GFCI circuit. AND, the other 120 appliances he mentioned not working would not be on a GFCI circuit(roof AC). If he has partial 12 volt power in the RV, then the Battery Disconnect switch is not the fault. ALL it does is open and close 1 solenoid. It does not control various 12 volt power leads. Just the main 12 volt power to the Coach battery systems. Doug
dougrainer 02/03/16 05:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Loss of partial power

Your AC thermostat gets it's power from the AC unit itself through a two wire connection to a reducing transformer on the 120 volt power input to the AC. If you do not have power to the AC thermostat, you do not have 120 volt power to the AC unit. Not necessarily. On my unit, I have power to the thermostat even with no 120v power to the rig. It runs the furnace. NO RV has a 120 to dc Transformer on the AC/Furnace tstat control. RV tstats are 12 volt. The roof AC control is 12 volt also and has NO Transformer. Residential systems DO have this type Transformer. Doug
dougrainer 02/02/16 09:26am Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 54  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2016 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS