To answer your question---NOT common to have the vent pipes leak. VERY RARE. Now, what you need to do is determine which tank is causing the odor. 99% of the time it is the GRAY tank, not the Black. Dump both tanks and fill and flush them both. Put a qt of Pine Sol in the gray tank with about 10 gallons of water and then drive the unit. See if you get the Pine sol smell. If so, you have a vent issue with the gray tank. If no Pine sol smell, flush the gray and do the same test with the black tank.
Common things that cause a tank odor
1. washer dryer prepped or w/d installed---the p trap has no water due to non use and the odor comes up there
2. Having a roof vent OPEN and the roof top tank vent, the odor is pulled in in transit thru the open vent
3. NO water in one of the sink/shower p traps(but if you use these sinks/ shower they will have water)
4. IF the 1.5 inch ABS vent pipes are not sealed in the top of the waste tanks or loose, you will get odor. The easiest test for this is to fill both tanks to where water comes up in the toilet and water flows into the shower pan. Once that water is there you check for leaks flowing off the top of the tanks.
5. LONG SHOT, but I have seen it. The wash bay, the customer keeps the dump hose and such and does not clean it out and the water bay smells horrible. THAT odor WILL migrate up into the RV as no RV has the water bay air sealed from the inside. Doug
I guess the OP is gone. BUT, Newmar NEVER installed frtliner maintenance free batteries for the coach batteries. You NEVER install sealed batteries for Coach batteries. Newmar always installed regular RV deep cycle batteries, as that is the BEST type for coach batteries. Someone installed those Frtliner batteries in place of the correct batteries at some time. Doug
The RV water pumps have a Thermal overload built in. They will run until the motor temp kicks the motor off and once it cools down will run again, so the pump rarely runs full time when the tank is empty. This helps prevent pump failure. But letting this go for days or weeks will destroy the pump unless you have no shore power and the battery eventually goes dead. Doug
Just found out they are POWER GEAR jacks....any more suggestions?
Yes, buy the rebuild kits for your 4 jacks. There is a number on each jack on a yellow label. The 2 front will probably be one size and the 2 rear a larger size. Doug
1. Newmar Diesel pushers, when you have them spec'd out with 2- 15k AC units, they will freeze you out.
2. Hopefully, they add the gasket between the Intake and Exhaust which is REQUIRED on Newmar top mount AC units. In-experianced Service Techs not familiar with Newmar will forget that gasket separator and then the units will NOT put out much air volume inside.
3. 2002 model. Count your TOTAL intake and exhaust round vents in the ceiling. Should be about 18 total. 2002 was when Newmar realized that they did not install an adequate number of intake and exhaust round ceiling vents. But, around this time, Newmar started using a slightly larger diameter vent which did not require the total of 18. To tell the difference between the old and new round ducts is simple
The OLD style, the round louver that turns sticks down about 1/4 inch
The NEW style the round turning louver is flush with the mount flange. Doug
If large enough, Hail will crack and puncture Fiberglass roofs.
They will usually NOT puncture Rubber(EPDM) roofs, BUT the hail will put holes in the decking under the roof and will require new rubber and decking. Putting a tarp over the roof will not do anything in large hail storms. Doug
What brand? HWH or Powergear? DO NOT USE ANY TYPE STOP LEAK. IT WILL RUIN THE MOTOR PUMP AND WILL NOT WORK ON THE SEALS. The PSI of the system is 2900 to 3200 psi. Powergear, they make a rebuild kit for their jacks(from $75 to $140 per jack depending on the model jack). HWH you can remove them and send them to HWH for rebuild but that takes about 4 weeks total, but is 1/2 the cost of purchasing 4 new jack cylinders.
If you have the 1 inch square drive shaft that uses the "pin" or bolt to secure to the motor shaft and you keep shearing the pins or bolts, the solution is simple. The HOLE thru the Square tube MUST be 1/4 inch with NO OVAL wear on it. If you have any oval wear, when the motor engages, the little slip caused by the motor before the driveshaft engages acts as a cutting edge and cuts the bolt/pin. Also, you CANNOT have any threads engaged in this area as you need the full 1/4 shaft to prevent free play. The fix is to cut the ends off the square shaft(1 to 1.5 inches to remove the oval holes, drill a new 1/4 inch hole thru the square drive shaft and use the hardened pins/bolts that are designed for the drive shaft assbly. You CANNOT use standard 1/4 inch bolts as they will shear off. Doug
What if any ZONE's does it show? If NO Zones indicated, that is the start of your troubleshooting. Did it work previously and it just went dead and have you had any work done on the AC system in the RV? Doug
This is an under the counter independent unit. It's only purpose is to make ice.
Make and Brand????? I will assume U line, as that is the most common stand alone in an RV. IF it gets cold(must be BELOW 10 degrees, the usual culprits are either the Tstat or if more than 5 years old, you will need a new mold/motor assbly as they usually get extremely rusted and corroded over the years and while you can buy the individual parts(120 motor-the bin switches and such), it is cheaper to buy the complete motor/mold assbly. This assbly is about $250 to $350 dollars and takes about 2 hours to replace. So, about $500 to $600 labor and parts. The tstat is about $75 and IF you just want to replace the motor and switches(comes as a unit) and NOT the complete mold assbly that part is about $95 to $115. Doug
"MOST" RV shows, at least the ones in DFW Texas area, you can look at most of the various Makes and Models at one site. How much Gas and money and time would you spend trying to drive to all the various dealerships in your area? Our Dealership as well as others, the PRICES at the show are usually lower to help spur sales. Our dealership will honor the show prices at least 2 weeks after the show for people that wanted to think about it. We do NOT force or make a potential customer feel that if they do not purchase right then, they are out of luck. Some dealers do not do that, but most will allow time to think and then purchase. There are also lower financing that is offered by various lenders at the shows to help the dealers spur sales. There are also "deals" and options that are included at the Show if purchased during the show. It costs a lot on Money for a dealer to invest in a show, so they have to do something to get the sales. The OEM's do not fully sponsor the shows. They contribute, but the dealer has to spend thousands of dollars in moving and set up and display's and then take down and moving the units back to the dealership. Funny thing is, in Texas, You CANNOT sell Autos at Auto shows. But you CAN sell RV's at RV shows. Doug
I was having the same problem. Called my repair guy and had the him look at the jacks. He raised them manually doing the back ones first and then the front. He raised them to max height and then checked the hydraulic fluid level. The tank was near empty. He explained that when the tank gets low that it will suck in air and that will cause the rear jacks to settle back down. Kept it in the up position for at least an hour, drove to local auto parts store and bought two quarts of transmission fluid. Then I added a half quart of transmission fluid and then raised and lowered the jacks on auto several times. Works fine now (24 hours later they are working). When I bought the motorhome a bad jack was found and it was "repaired" but they may have forgotten to refill the fluid tank. The repair guy said that when the jacks are auto leveled they do the front first which led to the problem of the rear jacks sucking air.
1. Fluid is ALWAYS added with jacks retracted.
2. Auto level is dependant on which side/corner is lowest. If the rear is lowest at auto level start, then the REAR jacks extend first. If one SIDE is lowest those 2 side jacks deploy first. If the FRONT is lowest, then the front jacks extend first and then the other jacks then extend.
3. Once the Reservoir is too low, it only takes 1 jack to suck air. But, yes, if the rear jacks deploy last and the reservoir is too low, then once those rear jacks extend and you run out of fluid they will suck air. But if you extended the REAR first, then your problem would have happened on the front jacks when extending.
4. If you have either HWH and the reservoir is filled to correct level, you will have at least 3 to 4 qts of remaining fluid even when all 4 are fully extended
5. If you have Powergear Jacks, the same, BUT, if fluid level is low, the dash down jack will alarm and show jacks down. Doug
Texas Incentives for Eco-Friendly Driving
Texas rewards drivers of eco-friendly, "green" vehicles. The following vehicles are exempt from smog and emissions testing:
Vehicles not powered by gasoline (including electric vehicles).*
Vehicles fewer than 2 years old.
THERE IS NO 5 DAY GRACE PERIOD ONCE YOU RE-ENTER THE STATE.
Inspection Grace Period
There is a five (5) day grace period for motorists to get their inspection sticker. An inspection certificate expires on the last day of the month that is indicated on the windshield. Therefore, you have until the 5th day of the following month to have your car inspected
On your unit, the chassis alt charging system is DIRECT to the chassis batteries and does not go thru any Newmar installed equipment. You do have a Bi charge (BIRD) relay system, but that is for the Coach batteries charging from the chassis system. This BIRD has nothing to do with the chassis system charging the chassis batteries. Now, if you have a problem(short or open in the Coach battery charging system, that "may" affect the Alternator output, but not likely. There IS a voltage regulator on all Diesel Chassis engine charging systems, but it is Frtliner installed. Either in the Alternator or close too it. Sometimes on Diesel systems, the lower voltage for a few minutes is NORMAL as the engine glow plugs may still be activated for a few minutes. If the batteries are old/weak, then the lower voltage may be a sign of that, not your charging system. Start the Genset, and let the coach batteries be charging from your Inverter or Converter which ever you have. Then start the chassis engine and see if you get the same voltage drop and rise. Doug
The Texas Inspection is done per where YOU have it registered. If you come to a Emission area, they do NOT do the Smog test, just the test that you are required to have in your county. So, you can go to any facility that can handle large vehicles. Doug
You buy an 8 year old used coach, NOT just any Motorhome, but a REPO, which YOU KNEW. You really think people that turned in a REPO unit took good care of it?????????????????????? Then this is YOUR list that you wanted taken care of which is reasonable.
1. Front (Zone 1) AC Interior water leak.
2. Rear (Zone 2) AC Squealing when starting.
3. Awning Wind Sensor issue (sensor not detected).
4. Water Heater – Still does not always wanting to start.
5. Missing ‘ring’ on Passenger map light.
I assume the dealer took care of THESE issues at no charge to you. If so, you have NO reason to be upset. ALL the other items are not part of YOUR original deal. They came up after the sale and IF any of the major chassis items came up on your drive home at the FIRST time you left the lot, then you should have returned immediately. From your post, those items did not. You purchased a USED REPO unit and expect treatment like you purchased NEW with a full factory warranty. Curious, IF the dealer called you up and stated he wanted you to pay for any problems on your trade in unit that they were getting ready for the new owner, you would gladly write a check to cover those items????? Its too bad you have all these problems, but putting blame on the dealer is not right. ONLY if he had knowledge of those major problems prior to the sale would he be liable. Doug
It did not work on electric or propane.
You said it cooled and then went up on LP. So, how did it cool down the first time? Also, you never responded to my question---Is the refer in a slide room. Also, IF the rear cooling fans are not operating the refer will not cool correctly regardless of heat source. Doug