RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1409 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 71  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Another HWH Leveling System Problem

OK, you have NO 12 volt ignition side power to the main control box. 8 PIN BLACK CONNECTOR - CN8 on the plexiglass control box will have pin 6 wire number 6120 (red wire), THAT wire should have 12 volts when ign key is ON. If not, find where Winne connected the 12 volt ignition on the front area chassis fuse block or dash. The fuse holder(HWH) is in the area of the parking brake and dash red down indicator. The odds are it either came out of the fuse block or the fuse for that circuit is blown. Once you find that 6120 wire, jump a 12 volt positive to that wire protected by a 5 amp fuse. Then see if the touch pad comes alive. I bet it will. Then find the problem where Winne connected the 12 volt ignition. If HWH system wired CORRECTLY (most are not) the 6120 ACC wire may be on the Ignition side. The reason HWH has 2 wires at the Dash (Ign and ACC) is, if the system is wired to the ACC, you can operate the jacks system and the down Buzzer will NOT sound when either extending or retracting. The Ignition side is for when you start the engine and jacks are extended you will get the warning buzzer. Most would prefer it wired correctly, where you can extend and retract using the ACC side and not listen to the warning buzzer. Doug
dougrainer 01/29/15 02:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: step control module

Found the problem. On the metal gear, the last tooth was worn allowed the motor sprocket to slip past the tooth and hammer. I adjusted the linkage and moved the gear back. Thanks for your help. What you did "fixed" the problem, but is NOT correct. Your "throw" on the extension of the step is not as far out now, since you modified the linkage. The correct fix is to replace the drive gear plate. They cost about $60 from LCI. Doug
dougrainer 01/29/15 08:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Forest River not playing the by the rules.

Interesting that Ford maker of the Chassis is not included in the report. Next time you pay 150 thousand for an entry level mh, consider how much of the cost is administrative bureaucracy. The OEM (Forest River) just notifies customers as a courtesy (they do NOT really have to do it) if there is a chassis recall. Ford DOES have a complete division as does other chassis/auto makers for safety/product recalls that do follow the Federal law. Doug
dougrainer 01/29/15 08:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Forest River not playing the by the rules.

But it doesn't really say what the safety issues/recalls were. What is says is simple. Even tho FR probably sent the required notices for any safety defects/recalls to owners and fixed the items as required, they failed to notify the NHTSA on any such action as required by LAW since the dates mentioned by the NHTSA. So, since FR did not do what is required and their answer was " the dog ate my homework", They are being fined. I doubt any RV owner was at risk, they just did not send the required paperwork to the NHTSA. Doug
dougrainer 01/29/15 05:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Another HWH Leveling System Problem

1. Have you removed the touch pad to verify that the multipin connector is connected and secure? 2. The touch pad requires Ignition(or acc) power to power it up. Have you checked that source via the online HWH service manual? 3. Your post is unclear. I believe you stated NONE of the LED lights on the touch pad come on regardless of the slide rooms operating. True? 4. There are 2- 12 volt solenoids at the HWH pump mounted on the motor. The primary, which the main battery positive cable connects to is the "power on" solenoid. THAT solenoid is what is activated by turning the key and touch pad on. The 2nd solenoid just activates the pump motor for hydraulic pressure. Do you have the rectangular control box with the clear plastic cover? Have you removed the plastic cover to check the various fuses AND the tightness of the various machine screws that secure the wire terminals on the circuit board? 5. Have you tried pushing the touch pad buttons REALLY HARD? If you have no LED lights at all when the key is ON, then forget this. Older touch pads get bad contacs and you have to push the buttons extremely hard which means you replace the touch pad. 6. The control box does not really control the slide operation, so your control box may be burnt out. Doug
dougrainer 01/28/15 09:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: furance filter

There is NO Furnace filter. That Filter on your model is IF you have the basement model AC or Heat Pump. That filter is for the AC/HP system and not for the furnace. Doug
dougrainer 01/28/15 08:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: step control module

Look at the pie shaped pivot gear. See if some of the teeth are broken off. If so, replace both the gear and the motor. Doug
dougrainer 01/27/15 10:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: step control module

We have a Newmar 2008 Dutch Star 4023. When the steps retract the motor will not stop and the steps hammer several times. We are in Texas and called our dealer, he said to replace the module which we did. I checked the voltage and it was 13+. I also cleaned all ground wires. This did not solve the problem. The dealer has no other suggestions. Has any of you had this happen. What do I do now? How Dun, Well Sir, one of the first things I need to know here is, what exactly do you mean by "hammer" several times? You see, the reason I ask that is because I just finished working with a problem on our step that sounds incredibly close to what you're experiencing right now with yours. Ours has been operating just fine for the time we've owned the coach, about 3.5 years. But, we just came back from our annual Quartzsite AZ trip and, upon parking the coach at home, and the step retracted, it made a "hammering" noise for a couple of seconds. I opened the door, which, extended the step and that went as normal. But, upon retracting the step, it made the hammering again. So, I decided it was time to operate. I removed the step motor and drive mechanism. I put it on the operating table and began to dissect it. I came up with what you see in the pictures. There's two gears in that gear box. One, the Driven gear, is about 3" in diameter and the other one, the Drive gear, is about 1" in diameter. The driven one, has one broken tooth and one about to break. The drive one is flawless. But, if you look close at the picture of the drive gear, you'll see the broken tooth of the driven gear, lodged in between two teeth of the drive gear. So, in cleaning things all up, I noticed that the driven gear, only rotates about half way in the total movement of the step, either in or out. That leaves the other side of the driven gear, completely brand new and not used at all. So, because the shaft of the driven gear allowed me to do it, I rotated that driven gear 180 degrees so that, the drive gear comes in contact with all brand new teeth on the driven one. I put it all back together with new and way better grease than the factory used and, it works absolutely flawless. No noise(s) what so ever. I got lucky on that one. Now, could this be your problem too? Who knows? It's actually quite simple to remove that motor drive assembly and, do some dissecting on the operating table. It would take you about 1/2 hour, from the time you started pulling it off the coach, to the point it's all apart on the work bench. There's only a few moving parts so, it's not very hard. Take a look at the pics and see what you think. Maybe it's your same problem. Scott http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/P1030959_zpsxnjpxx5i.jpg http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/P1030960_zpsvi5kmghg.jpg http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr159/FIRE-UP1/P1030963_zpsrldmduuu.jpg You have a Kwikee step. The OP has an LCI and is a different animal. His problem is the step motor. Doug
dougrainer 01/26/15 09:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: what is reasonable profit for the dealer

Dealers don't 'buy' new units most of the time. They take them on consignment and have a set fee that has to be paid back to the mfr after the sale. Reasonable profit - hard to say - depends upon volume. A dealer who sells 300 units at average $150,000 per year can make a lot less per unit than a dealer who sells 30 units per year. I would expect the manufacturer to get between 40 and 60% of the MSRP, and the difference between that and the sale price is the dealer's gross profit. Not operating profit which would likely be only half the gross profit, and probably only 10% of the gross profit might be net profit. Plus - is the owner a paid employee with a set salary - which makes her/his money part of the operating costs, or does the owner take her/his money out of the net profit after all expenses are paid? Absolutely false on the first part. ALL dealers PAY for their units the minute it leaves the factory. They either pay for them out of their own money(VERY RARE) or have a Financing Institution That "Floorplans" the units on his lot. The dealer then pays monthly interest on ALL the units on his lot except the used units. But, some dealers can also Floorplan some of his used units. It depends on how good his credit is with the Financing institutions. If the Factory has a lot of excess units (VERY rare after the 2008 meltdown), then the Factory may have a program to pay the Interest on those particular units for a set time to help move them. Doug
dougrainer 01/26/15 09:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Camping World repair now generator doesn't stay running

That is great for Good Sam to reach out. To the OP, would you please do the same and let us know what the results are. I agree and I actually emailed the facility earlier and the tech called me today. He suggested I try holding the start button for the gen down long enough to see if it provides power to the electrical system throughout the coach. I'll give that a try later today- and I've responded to the Good Sam reach out also. DO NOT DO THIS. Usually, if you leave the start switch engaged and you have a running problem, it keeps the starter engaged also. Easy way to burn up a starter. Doug
dougrainer 01/26/15 01:57pm Camping World Service and Installation
RE: step control module

If you have LCI/SCS/Coachstep (all 3 are the same step), then your step motor is bad. Doug
dougrainer 01/26/15 01:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Camping World repair now generator doesn't stay running

You have a 14 year old RV. IF all they did was work on the charging system,(you don't state what that problem was), then there is NOTHING on the charging system that would kill the APU when you release the start button. Have you checked the APU oil level? THAT (low oil) would cause your problem. Doug
dougrainer 01/26/15 06:01am Camping World Service and Installation
RE: Looking for Carefree Awning Parts

You misunderstood what Carefree told you. That particular awning and parts are NOT out of Stock. They discontinued the awning and all parts over 10 years ago. The only part available is the awning fabric, which is the same fabric type they still build. The only real solution is to replace the complete awning and fill in the screw mount holes for the arms on the slide out flange. If damage and insurance is paying, they replace the awning with current style AND install a new window awning since your model doubles as both and pay to have the old holes filled in and painted. Doug
dougrainer 01/25/15 03:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Kwikee Doorstep

Doug, is this the linkage that you refer to as being not available? All three versions of the linkage are available. Richard Yes, that linkage is available, but if it is broken on a 25 year old motorhome, the odds are the rest of the system is bad also. Doug
dougrainer 01/25/15 03:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: "popping" jacks

There is a solution for this involving the use of a specific oil. If you go to Lippert's website there are instructions about how to resolve this issue. It is an additive you add to the Trans fluid which is what is used in the Jacks. It is called Anti Stick-tion fluid. You add 1 qt into the system. Below is what is recommended. Doug Torco RFF Grade 15 Maxima Fork Oil Grade 15 Caterpillar Hydraulic Oil Additive 1U-9891
dougrainer 01/25/15 03:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Monaco Cayman air bags

If it has a solid front axle I highly recommend the "Safe Steer" system from Demming New Mexico. Cost is abut $400 and you can install it yourself in about an hour. I installed it on my Discovery Freightliner chassis. It changed my driving from "white knuckle" to one handing with a coffee in the other.. Best dollars I have spent on the coach so far. bob These type systems (also Safe-T-Plus) are NOT to be used as bandaids for steering/control problems. They are blowout type control systems that also help in normal windy uneven road tracking. BUT, the main thing is, get your RV to ride and track correctly before adding another type system. A CORRECTLY aligned/maintained front suspension will operate correctly and adding a system just makes it easier to drive. Doug OP, Find a shop that specializes in large Diesel front end systems and have them evaluate and fix. A QUALTY shop will find and fix your problem. Doug
dougrainer 01/25/15 10:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bay heater snap disk in HR>?

There are 3 places. ALL are behind that white plastic top cover above the bay heater. On the forward wall above the heater. Right above the heater. On the rear wall above the heater. Just use a can of PC air upside down to test it. That will freeze it to test. Doug
dougrainer 01/25/15 10:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How to re charge roof ac

It's an 06 cross-country sport coach. I do have an extended warranty and deductible is 250. It does cover ac repair/replacement. I do know a lot of things cost less than deductible to do is why I was asking. What freon would be in a 2006 model year? Freon 22. If you have an ESC and the unit has a leak, the ESC will replace the complete upper unit. Doug
dougrainer 01/25/15 07:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Selling a Distressed Motorhome

Depending on where you live(State), IF YOU KNOW OF SIGNIFICANT ITEMS THAT IMPACT THE ITEM, you must disclose it or you may be sued even if you list AS-IS. The fact you KNEW certain items were in bad repair does not keep you from being liable by claiming AS-IS. This is especially true in Texas. The best way is to disclose ALL items you feel are in bad repair. This does 2 things for you. 1. It keeps your from being liable after the sale. 2. MOST important, It keeps you and a potential buyer from wasting your and his time on the phone or in person when all the bad items are then discussed. Once the potential buyer KNOWS the problems, they can make a informed decision to buy that clunker. This limits your responses to only those that understand it is a clunker and are willing to purchase such a vehicle. Doug
dougrainer 01/25/15 07:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Propane compartment help

It is against code to enclose an LP tank DOT or Motorhome ASME. The LP is heavier than air and if when filling or there is a leak, the LP MUST be able to flow down and away. Doug
dougrainer 01/25/15 07:29am Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 71  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2015 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS