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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1317 matches.

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RE: Dometic Penguin II A/c Heat pump installation

Hey Doug, I don't follow, there are 6 wires coming down from the top. 2 yellow , 2 blue a red and a black. Plus two phone jack wires. If what you say is correct, what do these wires hook to? The same six wires off the multi zone module are the same color so I wired them color to color. I plugged the phone jack in for the T-stat and of course hooked up the 12VDC to the red and black wires to the module. All I get is heat. The T-stat flashes E5 and the temp set.Help! You have to REMOVE the original Module. That module is a 5 button module. Those 6 wires and the Phone type connectors come from the 12 button module mounted on the top area of the Penguin. Like I stated, you messed up big time. You will have to go on top and set the DIP switches on the module on top. Did the penguin NOT come with a 2 x 4 metal box with the 120 wires in it? Doug
dougrainer 08/28/16 07:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Help! Rear Jacks won't retract 2003 allegro bus

You must have a hybrid system. HWH 2000 is air leveling only. Not familiar with a Air/Hydraulic 2000 system. HWH makes a Air/Hydraulic but it is not called the 2000 system. All you have to do is activate the Hydraulic motor and walk around the outside of the RV to determine its location and then the valves/solenoids will be on that pump. Here is the service manual for the 2000 system. Doug http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml31043.pdf
dougrainer 08/28/16 07:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Kwickie RV step

I have never seen a 2 wire Kwikee step. They all have 4 wires. Unless Fleetwood had a special step built by Kwikee for them. 1. RED large wire is the POWER (12 volts) 2. The WHITE wire comes from the On/Off switch 3. The YELLOW wire comes from the Ignition side of the key switch 4. The BROWN wire comes from the Pin/magnetic switch in the door frame 5. The Large GREEN wire that is not to the 4 wire goes to the Chassis ground. So, you should have the 4 wire pigtail that has the short wire ends that connects to the 4 wire harness to the step module. That means you do not have to cut any wires. Now, there was one model Kwikee step built for Van models that had just 2 wires, BUT, that step had a 6 pin rocker switch that you had to manually extend and close the step. It was NOT automatic when you opened and closed the door. IF that is the step you had, you will have to run the wiring per the instructions and then install the 4 wire system. Yes, cutting the wires would negate the warranty because the do not make the same motor for the 4 wire steps. I do not think they make your type step system anymore. Doug
dougrainer 08/28/16 07:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dometic Penguin II A/c Heat pump installation

Also are there dip switches on the unit on the roof as well as in the power module? I missed that. Are you stating you have a 8 x 8 inch galvanized box with a control board? If so, that means you really messed up. The Penguins come with a 12 button control board up in the HP box accessed from the top. So, it appears you are trying to utilize 2 different control boxes, which is impossible to do and I have never heard or seen that happen. You have to remove the original control module. Doug
dougrainer 08/28/16 04:28pm Tech Issues
RE: battery issue/ 3 way fridge

3 way refers. The 12 volt side is just to MAINTAIN the existing temp in a refer already at cooled temp. It is ONLY for operation while in transit. The Truck/Car Alternator will supply enough amps/volts to the RV battery and keep the refer operational while driving as long as the charge line is connected to the trailer AND the battery is charged and in good shape. Running on LP and 12 volt will not harm anything in the short term. Doug
dougrainer 08/28/16 04:23pm Tech Issues
RE: RM2652 Burner Will Not Stay Lit

The Universal kit is for a 2932770015. You had the 293277001. That may be your problem. Since the Thermocoupler is putting out the required millivolts, the only thing left is the module board is not processing that signal to leave the Gas Valve open. This is from Dino boards website and seems to state the universal board will not work in your application. Doug Note: The Mirco P-711 will not work to replace the 3850415-013 board found in Universal Power Board kits # 3308741.002 (2-way) and # 3308742.000 (3-way). These kits change the gas valve wiring and DC element wiring (in 3-way refrigerators only). Our 3850415.01 board will work to replace the board in both 2-way and 3-way kit.
dougrainer 08/28/16 04:18pm Tech Issues
RE: duo-therm a/c does not start

The clicking happens because the control board is 12 volt activated. IF NO 120 to the AC unit it will still click. The control board, is it in a 8 inch by 8 inch galvanized box right above the AC filter? Or is it up on top where you can only access it from the top with the cover removed and the flat metal cover removed? ON the control board you will see black relay towers. ONE will have a 12 gauge black wire and a BLUE 12 gauge wire. The BLACK is HOT 120 volts. The BLUE goes to the Compressor circuit. With NO 120 power to the AC unit jump the black and blue and restore 120 power. The compressor should come ON. Turn off immediately after the compressor either runs or does not. Post the results. I have never had a Fan Capacitor and the compressor capacitor fail at the same time. So, at this point, do not do any capacitor tests. I feel you have a 120 supply problem. Doug
dougrainer 08/28/16 11:10am Tech Issues
RE: Dometic Penguin II A/c Heat pump installation

1. You still have the 5 button wall CCC tstat control? 2. IF SO, did you install the 12 button to 5 button control board on the new Penguin? 3. IF yes to question 1 and NO to question 2, That is your problem. 4. IF yes, to question 2, you did not install and wire the 12 to 5 button board correctly. Doug
dougrainer 08/28/16 11:01am Tech Issues
RE: Coleman Mach thermostat ticking A/C won't come on

The metal label on the side of the upper unit bears no information, so I'm somewhat guessing as to the exact unit. In the owner's packet, there is a RVP consumer registration card bearing the information I'm forced to work with. Does it really matter which manufacturer I use for a replacement? All the a/c units I've looked at online components seem all the same. The replacement model for my a/c unit is a unducted model until you buy the duct kit. Is this what you mean by 'ducted models, there is no such thing."? And, as to the compressor, does it fail all at once? Works one time but not the next? I've read where they fail slowly. Is that wrong? Doug, thanks again for your valuable input/help. 1. Compressors can lock up and then when the outside temp changes can then run. Then lock up again. 2. The TOP AC units are all the same. DUCTED has to do with the inside plenum package. When you went to the RVP website, it states what to purchase and use with the current upper replacement model. 3. NO, you cannot change Brands without buying more parts. As far as I am concerned, there are only 2 GOOD long term makers of RV AC units. Dometic(Duotherm) and RVP(Coleman). Use other brands at your own peril. 4. RVP has 2 places for the model number. 1. On the top by the capacitor plate and from the inside on the round metal mount tray. There is a model sticker at both locations. Same with Dometic. Doug
dougrainer 08/28/16 10:57am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bad hydraulic leak

Your year Tiffin probably has the HWH slide on the Pass rear. I doubt the Slide went all he way out. It probably went out 2 to 4 inches? Is this correct? IF the Hydraulic hose for a slide either leaks or a cylinder leaks the affected room will indeed move out a few inches as it has lost its pressure to stay in. You go outside by the room and have your wife activate the switch for the slide. You will know within a few seconds if that slide has a leak. Hopefully, the leak is external. IF internal, you will see fluid and wetness on the carpet by the inside of the slide by the bed. The "smoke" was probably the fine mist that happens when a hyd leak happens from a very small pinhole. Since your wife stated inside, that probably means you will find oil inside. Doug
dougrainer 08/28/16 07:02am Tech Issues
RE: Coleman Mach thermostat ticking A/C won't come on

RVP did not make 15k your year. Ducted models, there is no such thing. The TOP units are ALL the same. Ducted is the Inside plenum package. Usually, when the Start Capaitor fails, you will not get that Umph at the compressor. That Umph is a locked up compressor. You can install a 15k and I would when replacing. You cannot blow out the ducts:B Use this link to determine your correct replacement. Doug http://www.airxcel.com/coleman-mach/service-support/model-number-changes
dougrainer 08/28/16 06:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coleman Mach thermostat ticking A/C won't come on

The top black is the start relay. The Capacitors are below it. You test a compressor with NO POWER and wires removed. For kicks, just replace BOTH capacitors. If that does not fix it the compressor is locked up. 20 year old unit----replace the upper unit. Doug
dougrainer 08/27/16 05:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Old Norcold Fridge - Died Suddenly

There is no ground, or there is no positive. I never had to check. BUT, there will not be BOTH. You NEVER need Pos and Neg thru this type switch. You are only routing the wires together. That is why I stated, connect all at the same time and the Eyebrow may light up. IF NOT, then the rear board is bad. Doug
dougrainer 08/27/16 02:37pm Tech Issues
RE: duo-therm a/c does not start

IF you put it on COOL mode and wait 5 minutes, the compressor will come ON. Even if the fan does NOT. IF that does not happen, then odds are you have no 120- power to that unit. Your unit(RV) should have the Intellitec EMS system. The POWER (120) for both AC units go thru that system. Now, turn off all 120 breakers and reset. Do NOT just look at them. I charge customers $100 to reset breakers. This is after they have called me and I tell them to do that. They fail to do that, bring the unit in, and they then pay $100 because they refused to do this simple task. May not be your problem, but it is more common than you think. The ONLY way to check for 120 at the AC unit is to access the metal control box thru the AC filter and open and test the 12 romex wire connections. It is VERY probable that the wire nut connections have melted loose. THAT is very common also. Doug
dougrainer 08/27/16 02:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic RM3762 Refrigerator not working on LP

Yes, you did the right thing. Replaced the Electrode first even tho it tested good. The Electrode flame signal on these models is in the main circuit board and will require a new board to fix your problem. Doug
dougrainer 08/27/16 12:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Coleman Mach thermostat ticking A/C won't come on

IF the fan runs you have 120 power to the AC. IF NO START CAPACITOR, THAT IS YOUR PROBLEM. ALL AC UNITS HAVE A START CAPACITOR. Doug Click the link for a detailed diag. Even tho it states mechanical controls only, the TOP UNIT is the same. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rvp/rvp6789mech.pdf
dougrainer 08/27/16 11:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: duo-therm a/c does not start

How do I remove the cover of the tstat? I do not see any screws or clips and don't want to break it trying to get it apart. This is the problem with the Internet. At least you asked how to do it without attempting it. You should have the LCD Dometic CCC wall tstat. There is NO fuse and you cannot remove the cover. A Reset will NOT fix your problem. I would check the Fan and make sure it will turn by hand. Does the tstat have display? Doug
dougrainer 08/27/16 04:31am Tech Issues
RE: A/C Question

2007 Class A with 2 Carrier Air V's. 20amp house breaker dedicated line to a 20amp gfi outlet. Then I have a 20amp to 50amp pig tail to camper 50amp cable. Meter that I have that plugs in to electrical outlet in camper shows with nothing really on green about 118volts. I know I can't run to AC units but when I turn one on the meter stays in green and runs it down to like 114 to 115 volt but still at the bottom of green zone on meter. Ac unit runs fine. Is this a safe set up and will it damage ac unit or something else. Thanks for any input. You do not have a 20 amp GFCI outlet on a dedicated 20 amp breaker. You may have a 20 amp breaker and a 20 amp GFCI, but unless you had someone install the wiring from your House breaker box to that GFCI, odds are that circuit is rated at 15 amps. Unless your wall plug pins look like this I -- and not this II, you have a 15 amp rated plug. ll slots in a receptacle are 15 amp rated. You also do not have a 50 to 20 pigtail. They are 50 to 15 amp Dogbones. Unless you have found a 50 to 20, which I have never seen. Remember, it is NOT just the line voltage you should be concerned about. It is the AMP draw that will cause heat build up when you do what you do. Fan Moors are not the concern. It is the Compressor, that is the concern from lower voltage. I would get a Digital multitester and read the ACTUAL line voltage and compare the voltage reading to that cheap plug in meter you are using. I have found that those cheap plug in meters with the needle can be OFF up to 20% from reading the true voltage. Doug
dougrainer 08/27/16 04:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Old Norcold Fridge - Died Suddenly

Doug, How do I hotwire/bypass tthatswitch to test? GOOD question. I think there are 6 wires to the switch. Maybe 5. I no longer have a schematic for that 30 year old refer. GOOD news is, you can connect all together as all it does is jump power to the board and the Hi humidity Heater strip. Find the HOT 12 volt wire. Then take each of the other wires one at a time and connect to the 12 volt wire. When you find the one that activates the eyebrow panel jut jump those 2 together. I would not worry bout trying to activate the Hi Humidity heat strip. Doug
dougrainer 08/26/16 07:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Air Conditioner recharge

1. ONE IS ON THE BACK OF THE COMPRESSOR 2. THE OTHER IS UP FRONT BY THE EXPANSION VALVE BY THE EVAPORATOR. Doug This is what it looks like. http://www.evanstempcon.com/serviceparts2.php?pullID=RV218729 Wow, that must be tough to get your gauges on. There must be a reason why they split the locations. Fortunately mine are both at the compressor. OK, for the SLOW people. They have 2 (TWO) sets of Hi and Low side fittings. 2 at the Compressor and 2 at the front area by the Evaporator/Genset. OP asked for location of the LOW side. I stated where each is located. IF he has Roadmaster chassis, it may also be located at the left side storage behind the drivers side rear tires where they locate the CONDENSOR coil on Roadmaster chassis. Doug
dougrainer 08/26/16 07:15pm Class A Motorhomes
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