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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1550 matches.

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RE: Norcold low dc beeping

Norcold 1200 LRIM model. Beeping low dc but stops when i open either fridge door. House battery shows 13.6 with rv running and it is beeping with rv running. It starts beeping again a minute or so after door is opened and closed. Any ideas? If you leave the doors open for more than a minute, what beeping or indicator do you get? 1200 models have a beeping that will indicate if the door light switch is NOT closed. You have to adjust the door up to stop that indicator. The 12 volt power MUST be read at the input to the refer, not just what the house battery shows. The refer is sensing lo DC voltage, so check the voltage at the refer 12 volt input with a digital voltmeter. When you open the refer door, the rear fans also stop and that may mean the voltage is just at the minimum. When you close the door those 2 fans start up again. Doug
dougrainer 07/25/14 03:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold low dc beeping

ur door is not sealing properly I Believe you mean NOT LATCHING correctly. There is no indicator of a refer door not sealing correctly. Doug
dougrainer 07/25/14 03:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold 1200 Fins Frosting

Your thermister may be bad. It is clipped to one of your fins and you should have a wire running to your light. I replaced mine and all is good again. Easy to do yourself, mine cost about $23.00 I believe. Explain how a new Thermister will stop fin icing/frosting. Doug
dougrainer 07/25/14 10:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coleman 15K rooftop heat pump

The 15k RVP heat pump ramps up the heat pretty slow, but once it gets "cooking" it throws out a lot of hot air. The specs are 12,700 btuh at 47 degrees, vs. 5,600 btuh for the heat strip, using about the same amount of electrical power. I have NEVER seen a Heat Strip on a RVP HP. You can add one, but why???????? Same with Dometic. Some models you can add a Heat Strip to the HP, but WHY spend the money???? Doug
dougrainer 07/25/14 05:55am Tech Issues
RE: Coleman 15K rooftop heat pump

I've not gotten the point of a heat pump in a RV at all because of the single motor fan design. Why not just a regular A/C and a heat strip, although the best bang for the buck is a Cheap Heat system to supplement the RV furnace, and not bother with semi-workingheat solutions from a device designed to cool the environment. RVP HP's for the last 3 or 4 years are a 2 motor system. 1 motor for the interior and 1 motor for the Condensor. Doug
dougrainer 07/25/14 05:53am Tech Issues
RE: Coleman 15K rooftop heat pump

There's an example of how it works in this document http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/pdf_documents/1976497.pdf. I have like you sometimes wanted to use only the heat pump to raise the temp more than 5 degrees and found the furnace kicking on to be a nuisance. I've considered the toggle switch you mentioned, haven't done it yet. I often set the thermostat to 4 degrees above the room temp and walk it up as the room temp rises. Just another example IMO of poor design, optimized for those who don't care to understand how things work at the expense of those who do. If "electric heat" isn't working I'm perfectly capable of noticing that and switching to "gas heat". RVP decided that IF there is a greater temp called for than 5 degrees, you would have to run the HP a very long time to heat up the RV. So, they have the Furnace come ON if you set greater than the 5 degrees. IT DOES NOT LOCK OUT THE HP IN THIS SCENARIO. The HP is on standby and if the set temp gets to that 5 degrees with the furnace, the HP comes on and heats the rest of that 5 degrees. Normally, unless you have an extreme blue norther hit you and the outside temp drops dramatically, when the inside needs more heat, the tstat calls for Heat and the HP will come on and heat that next cycle. And continue doing so. Yes, that is correct, but that is when the system cannot function normally and heat up the Interior. The sequence is for when you initially get into a subcold RV and you need the temp raised more than 5 degrees. When the system has reached the temp OR the inside temp is within that 5 degrees the HP will function normally. Doug
dougrainer 07/24/14 08:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Coleman 15K rooftop heat pump

RVcomfort gave you an over-simplified version of what really happens. The thermostat does not know if the furnace is running or not. When there is a 5-degree separation between the set temp and room temp, the thermostat "assumes" you want or need help from the furnace. If the heat pump by itself doesn't bring the room up to the set point over a time period, the thermostat "assumes" it's ineffective and that's when it gets locked out. There's an example of how it works in this document http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/pdf_documents/1976497.pdf. I have like you sometimes wanted to use only the heat pump to raise the temp more than 5 degrees and found the furnace kicking on to be a nuisance. I've considered the toggle switch you mentioned, haven't done it yet. I often set the thermostat to 4 degrees above the room temp and walk it up as the room temp rises. Just another example IMO of poor design, optimized for those who don't care to understand how things work at the expense of those who do. If "electric heat" isn't working I'm perfectly capable of noticing that and switching to "gas heat". RVP decided that IF there is a greater temp called for than 5 degrees, you would have to run the HP a very long time to heat up the RV. So, they have the Furnace come ON if you set greater than the 5 degrees. IT DOES NOT LOCK OUT THE HP IN THIS SCENARIO. The HP is on standby and if the set temp gets to that 5 degrees with the furnace, the HP comes on and heats the rest of that 5 degrees. Normally, unless you have an extreme blue norther hit you and the outside temp drops dramatically, when the inside needs more heat, the tstat calls for Heat and the HP will come on and heat that next cycle. And continue doing so. Doug
dougrainer 07/24/14 01:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Coleman 15K rooftop heat pump

Once the furnace kicks in due to the 5 degree separation setting, the HP comes on line at the 5 degree mark. Once the RV is AT the set temp, the HP will KEEP it at the set temp without the furnace coming on again. Just use the furnace for that initial heat up. Doug
dougrainer 07/24/14 08:09am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 Fins Frosting

Frost build up is NORMAL on RV absorbsion refers. The fin temp will be 10 degrees COLDER than the temp of items in the refer----25 degree fin temp--35 degree temp in the refer of the items. Your model has a 48 to 54 hour defrost timer ONLY if left ON continuously. If you turn it off and on again before that 48 to 54 cycle the timer starts over. You do NOT have any defrost button, NO refer (RV) has a Defrost button. The defrost time just shuts the refer OFF for about 2 hours to let the fins melt any ice/frost and then it starts up again. Ice/Frost on the fins just indicates that there is humidity in the air. Make sure you backside drain line for the evap pan has the check valve in it to prevent moist(humid) air migration back up into the refer. Doug
dougrainer 07/24/14 08:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What solvent to clean EDPM?

Manufacturers mostly use unleaded gasoline to clean the seams of EPDM roofing materials. But you need to clean any dirt brushed or power washed away before cleaning the underlying EPDM with solvent cleaner. I would like very much to see any reference to a manufacturer of EPDM or TPO that recommends using gasoline to clean their roofing material. I would like to see ANY reference to using a highly flammable gasoline to doing any type work on an RV. BTW, NOBODY uses Gasoline to clean a roof EPDM or otherwise. Doug
dougrainer 07/23/14 02:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Front A/c in 2000 Fleetwood bounder 34d

Without the Model number of the old one, nobody can tell you. the year 2000 was just about the time that Dometic and RVP started producing 15k AC units. before that the largest was 13.5k. The odds are, on a Fleetwood Bounder your year model the original WAS a 13.5k unit. Since they delt with a ESC to replace your unit, their paperwork should indicate the OLD model number. IF you have an Energy management system(EMS), then you probably had a 13.5k. When 15k came out the 15k was an OPTION and not standard. So, you need to contac Fleetwood and give your VIN and ask what size was on your particular unit. Doug
dougrainer 07/23/14 09:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: A/C issue with fan

This is really hard to understand. Which fan are you talking about: the A/C fan or the furnace fan? What do you mean by "heat and/or A/C in the off position"? Are they both off or is one of them on? Does it matter which position the fan switch is in: "On" or "Auto"? If we're talking about the A/C fan turning on, does the compressor also run at the same time, or just the indoor fan? What brand thermostat are we talking about? The A/C fan is trying to cycle itself evry few minutes. The thermostat control has one slider switch that has 3 positions. Heat, Off and A/C. I have this in the off position. Since the thermostat is Off, the fan switch should be dead I assume. But the cycling occurs no matter which position is chosen. The odds are, if you do NOT have a Lo/Hi or Lo/med/hi fan switch on the tstat, then someone has installed an aftermarket Tstat and THAT may be your problem. Doug Not really sure if the compressor is trying to cycle. Not near the rig at this time so I don't know the brand name of the thermostat. The odds are, if you do NOT have a Lo/Hi or Lo/med/hi fan switch on the tstat, then someone has installed an aftermarket Tstat and THAT may be your problem. Doug
dougrainer 07/23/14 05:58am Tech Issues
RE: Need a hint please! RE: 97 Allegro Bus/DuoTherm/onan gen

On most the gen set overrides the shore power. I think the opposite ! On mine the Shore power overrides the genny. If the switch in your home senses shore power it will use shore power. My thought is to switch the fridge manually to propane/gas and then unplug the shore power. Conduct the a/c test then replug the shore power and put fridge back on automatic. Run the genny with just the fans running on the a/c for a little while just to make sure everything is functioning well on genny then load up each a/c one at a time. Check for surging of the genny after turning each one to a/c. I have a feeling the genny has not been used in a while. ALL Transfer switches come with the APU as the controlling over ride. ON some Transfer switches you have a switch internally that you can change the option to Shore Power as control and the over ride. Some OEM's (very few less than 1%), will have the Shore Power as over ride. Doug
dougrainer 07/23/14 05:54am Class A Motorhomes
RE: HWH Hydraulic Jacks

I found the fluid resevoir low on the HWH system I have on my 2002 Itasca Sunrise 32V. The two front jacks were not completely coming down or up, and then the front slide started to move very slowly when extending. I topped off the fluid resevoir and voila!, they work. Low fluid or NO fluid would NOT cause a HWH jack to retract slow or not at all. Doug
dougrainer 07/22/14 12:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash A/C oil

The compressor HAS the required amount of oil. There is a reservoir in a Compressor that should have been filled to the required level by the compressor supplier. You do NOT just add an oil charge to an AC system. Too much oil will cause problems. Doug
dougrainer 07/21/14 07:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Fuel Pump runs with key in "Run" or "Accessory position"

Older Chevy P 30 chassis that had dual tanks OR they had a vapor lock problem and the OEM installed a aftermarket fuel pump, they used one of the oil plugs at the oil filter block housing and installed a oil pressure switch that only when you had oil pressure would power be routed to the electric pump. Engine not running(no oil pressure) no fuel pump running. This is the easiest and a good safe way to power an Electric fuel pump. Doug
dougrainer 07/21/14 02:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Cable TV Not Working

ALL RV's that have roof top antenna's and a sidewall CABLE inlet, will have a switch between Cable and Antenna. This switch is usually the Roof Antenna wall switch which is also the booster. Since you get OTA signals fine to the TV's that means the booster must either be turned OFF or put in the "Cable" position. Winegard Antenna's, the booster is just switched OFF and then the Cable is routed thru to all TV's. Jensen Antenna's, the switch is a 3 position switch, OFF in the center, and then push 1 way for Roof and the other way for cable. It will have a metal toggle switch. The Winegard will have a push button switch. You DO have a Booster somewhere, you just have to find it. Doug
dougrainer 07/20/14 06:52am Tech Issues
RE: Atwood 6 gal gas water heater problems?

"Testing" an Ignitor board will NOT tell you the problem the OP has. His problem was lighting and running a few minutes and shutting down. THAT IS an indication you have a bad board. The Ignitor tester cannot test for this type problem. Doug
dougrainer 07/19/14 01:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air Condition high/low question

As far as I know the only thing that HI of LO effects is the speed of the fan. It is like the fan speed in a vehicle, the faster the fan the quicker it should cool as it is moving more air. Coils usually will freeze up for three reasons, either the coil is dirty and it traps moisture which will then freeze, or system is low on refrigerant and that makes it a bit more efficient before it quits. Also there should be a T-stat on the coil that senses the temp there, so it should not freeze up. If your coil freezes up either sensor is out of position, or it is not working right. Correct to a point. The LO fan speed travels air thru the fins slower and that allows the Evap to get colder and the AIR is colder as it has just a little more time to have the hot air removed and thus freeze IF the unit has no freeze sensor. On HI speed the air flows faster and turns over the hotter air faster to get cold. ONLY wall tstat systems have a freeze sensor. This is why the instructions state to run on hi cool to prevent freeze ups if there is no freeze sensor system. Doug
dougrainer 07/19/14 07:28am Tech Issues
RE: Shaw direct in Florida

You need to call Shaw to see if they beam the signal below the border. Most Sat providers spot beam their signal to a specific geographical area. Dish and Direct cannot get programming in Canada and Canada Sat providers do not broadcast to the lower USA. One of the problems is getting the Elevation and Azimuth to "hit" the Sat beam. There is the curvature of the earth that prevents that signal no matter how up or down you point the dish. Doug
dougrainer 07/19/14 07:20am Class A Motorhomes
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