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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1168 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Replacing heater with a/c?

There is no inexpensive EASY way to install/add a AC to connect to the Furnace floor ducts. RV's are not designed to have that done. There is no room AT the existing furnace area and that area is where you would have to have the forced air start at. Your best bet, is to either replace your roof AC with a larger unit or ADD an extra Roof AC and have 2 if you need that much cooling. The reason local HOME AC companies cannot do that job is because there is NO AC unit designed to do that. They are also not qualified and understand how RV's are put together to do what you want done. Doug
dougrainer 07/02/15 06:22am Tech Issues
RE: Dometic Brisk Air II 15,000 freeze

Your mechanical Tstat has a sensor bulb/tube. Make sure it is sensing the RETURN air and is in THAT air flow. Doug
dougrainer 07/01/15 03:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Electric fuel pump?

Years ago, (1977 thru about 1986) on both Chevy and Dodge Class A chassis's, the Motorhome OEM's put a electric fuel pump to prevent vapor lock. BUT, the main thing they did for safety was to power the electric fuel pump thru a additional oil pressure switch. NO oil pressure, NO electric fuel pump. They did NOT remove the mechanical pump. They used the Oil pressure switch to prevent the fuel pump from operating if the engine died(accident or breakdown), so no excess fuel could flow. Doug
dougrainer 07/01/15 02:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fridge - works on AC but is 'weak'

NEVER replace a 120 element with a higher wattage element. It is NOT safe and is not needed. Nobody remembers that one cause of the Dometic cooling units failures was because Dometic installed a higher wattage Heat Element. Instead of the 325 watt they installed a 350 watt. I disagree with Chris LP versus 120. We have pretty hot temps in Texas from June to October(90 to 105). I NEVER have a problem with running and/or checking the performance of a RV refer running on 120 only. LINE voltage will make a big difference on 120 operation just as LOW LP pressure will cause poor performance on LP. The refers are designed to run equally on 120 and LP. Thgis is why it is critical for every RV'er to have and understand how to use a voltage multimeter. Always check your line voltage inside the RV. IF it is below 112 to 115, then your refer may not perform as well in 85 plus temps. Switch to LP when your line voltage drops. Doug
dougrainer 06/30/15 02:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic RM2354 3 CF 3-way not switching off DC

This fridge has an auto selector where I can select either AC, DC or propane. It is stuck on DC and I can't get it to switch to an alternative power source. Yes, my inverter has both fuses and breakers. When I turn the fridge off, the inverter fan stops spinning, but when I turn it back on, it defaults to DC power and the inverter fan start going again. I will state again. You have a CONVERTER, not an Inverter. Converters take 120 ac and convert to 12 volt dc. Inverters take 12 volt dc and INVERT to 120 ac current. The CONVERTER fan spins because the HI 12 volt load caused by the 12 volt side of the refer. That indicates you do indeed have 12 volt power to the refer. You CANNOT run the refer on 12 volt ONLY. It requires too much DC power and is designed to be on 12 volt only when you are in transit. The 12 volt element maintains the existing cold in the refer and is designed to do ONLY that. You must run on LP or 120 when cooling. Since you cannot get it out of 12 volt only mode, the only 2 items would be the inside control button assbly or the outside rear control module. I would suspect the outside control module. Doug
dougrainer 06/29/15 01:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic RM2354 3 CF 3-way not switching off DC

1. You have a CONVERTER, not an Inverter, 2. The LED lights light up when either the fuse is blown or pulled and there is a 12 volt LOAD on that circuit. So, if the LED for the refer did NOT light up when the fuse was pulled, that indicates the refer is NOT connected to the 12 volt power fuse. Find out if there is 12 volts to the rear of the refer. It requires 12 volts to operate whether on 12 volt/120 /lp. Doug
dougrainer 06/29/15 10:48am Tech Issues
RE: Dou therm AC unit clicks when turning AC unit on

There is voltage to trailor my plug ends work . Yes circuit breakers are not tripped and no fuses are blown ALWAYS turn the 120 breakers OFF and then ON again when checking. They can trip and they look like they are not tripped. Doug
dougrainer 06/29/15 05:24am Tech Issues
RE: "Top-of-The-Line" A/C Replacement (Only the best)

Doug, What are your thoughts on the Atwood Air Command A/C's? I have none other than I would not buy them due to them being new on the USA market. They look like a knock off of the older Coleman Mach units. I would NOT have my customers be the test RVer's for that product. The difference between Coleman and Dometic is the FORD versus CHEVY argument. You have people that hate one over the other, but in the end they are comparable units. Doug
dougrainer 06/28/15 04:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Dou therm AC unit clicks when turning AC unit on

Did you check the circuit breaker? AS noted, your controls are 12 volt and that is the click you hear. The Fan and Compressor must have 120 volts. So, no 120 to the unit or AC and the AC will not run. Doug
dougrainer 06/28/15 04:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Quieter A/C Units

I have a 2014 40' with 2 AC units on the top. Not sure of the brand but suspect Dometic? They seem to cool alright if you can stand the noise! I think the heat is ducted but I doubt the AC is. We bought this MH with the idea that we would use it 2 years and then figure out what we want or did not want in the next MH that we plan to keep a while. Any recommendations? Your post points out things that bug me. You do not know what brand AC units. Do you not have the Large owners operators manual packet? That will have your appliance brand and model numbers. A 40 foot should have ducted air. You think the Heat is ducted, but doubt the AC is??? WHERE does the cold AC air come out at??? 99% of motorhomes have ducted air and the AC cold comes out the ceiling mounted ducts. The FURNACE will come out the floor ducts. IF you have Heat Pumps (this is where the owners pack comes in), then in HEAT mode the heat will indeed come out the same ceiling ducts as the Cold air on AC. Remember, your AC units are mounted right over your head. Doug
dougrainer 06/28/15 06:53am Tech Issues
RE: Duo-Therm Comfort Control Center 3106463.007

Reset worked everything working great. Thanks Ivylog!! If you had NO display, how could you reset the CCC tstat????????????? The reset procedure will NEVER restore a Blank LCD screen. I will bet you had NO 12 volts to the RV. The tstat system requires 12 volts to operate the tstat. Doug
dougrainer 06/27/15 07:57pm Tech Issues
RE: "Top-of-The-Line" A/C Replacement (Only the best)

Carrier was the WORST in RV AC units. That is why they are no longer in the RV AC business. You only have 2 choices for RV roof top Units. Do NOT think the 3rd (Advent) is in consideration. They are a cheap China knock off of Dometic. 1. Dometic 2. RVP (Coleman). The furnace is not a real factor as both RVP and Dometic control kits have the 2 wires for the furnace function. You will have to change out the wall tstat and the upper control board/s when you go to the new AC units. The Carrier control system is not compatible with the RVP and Dometic systems. IF you have the remote control Carrier tstat system, then you will have to run the tstat wiring to where you want the wall tstat. Doug
dougrainer 06/27/15 07:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Insurance Co hasn't settled claim

I hope the OP comes back. ONE thing not mentioned and one thing WE require when we have the local Auto glass companies replace customers windshields-----THEY MUST BE PARKED FOR 24 HOURS BEFORE THE RV IS MOVED. Failure to do this will result in the glue/sealant from adhering correctly and you risk what happened in the OPs scenario. I wonder if that is what has happened, since they were on a trip. They moved the motorhome before the sealant had time to set up. Doug
dougrainer 06/27/15 05:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Furnace repair update!

Seems odd. Does the burner cycle against the limit switch? Great to hear that it was fixed. The NORM for the limit is CLOSED. When it fails, it is OPEN. If OPEN, no 12 volt current goes to the Ignition module and the unit will not light. Doug
dougrainer 06/26/15 01:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Trying to understand Refrig fans - inside and out

Hot air rises. Same principle on the INSIDE of the refer as on the OUTSIDE. On the inside, with NO extra fan, the convection air rises from the rear up and thru the Evap fins and then hits the top of the refer and flows over forward and down the front, removing the heat from the items in the refer. That is the design of a absorbsion refer. Also, that is why it is CRITICAL to NOT have block type food or plastic baggie type food against the REAR wall of the refer. That will stop the normal flow of air up and over. You want a 1 inch gap to help air flow. So, following this principle, you want your added inside fans blowing UP from the bottom. Doug
dougrainer 06/26/15 05:36am Tech Issues
RE: Replacing Dometic Air Conditioner

Doug, I have three of the older Duo Therm units (Dometic 630515 Heat Pumps) on my 04 Dynasty. What would be the newest model # of a Dometic 15K Heat pump that would work with my 5 button Tstat? I would be willing to buy a spare unit to have on hand so I would not have to go through all the things you posted above. Thanks They do NOT make a unit like your old one. You are stuck. I doubt you could find one. The new style has been out almost 5 years and that means ALL the old styles are sold and installed. What YOU have to do, is just purchase a New Penguin HP add the 12 to 5 button control board kit. This adds about $125 to the price plus the labor to install the kit. Doug
dougrainer 06/25/15 12:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: one leveling jack retracts

Yes, The pressure is held at the power unit and the solenoid is replaceable. But, manually open and close it first. Sometimes debris gets in the needle and causes seepage internally. Doug
dougrainer 06/25/15 05:40am Tech Issues
RE: Air Conditioner runs but won't cool

yellow wire has power leaving the thermostat but not when it reaches the controller box... The yellow wire is open somewhere. USE the unused white wire and connect it instead of the yellow. Also, cut the spade terminal OFF at the AC control box and test the yellow again. Sometimes, they crimp and the insulation stops the copper to spade connection. Or they neglected to strip the yellow before crimping. Doug
dougrainer 06/24/15 04:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Air Conditioner runs but won't cool

Doug, no LED's but here's two pics of the board itself and the wiring diagram. within the compressor relay the "NO" (black wire) had power but the "COM" (Purple wire) did not. http://i.imgur.com/vSZXdh2.jpg height=480 width=640 http://i.imgur.com/FWAKg6f.jpg height=480 width=640 The BLACK is the 120 hot feed to the AC board. The Purple goes to the start capacitors. That black box is the relay that CLOSES to supply 120 power to the purple wire. So, If you have it set for COOL and no 120 power to the Purple wire, then the odds are the wiring between the tstat and the control board is open or miswired. It is extremely RARE for a wall tstat to be bad, it is 99% the wiring. It takes 12 volt power to close that compressor relay. In the shop, I would apply 12 volt power to the "Y" spade and see if the relay closes. Before that, I would check for 12 volts on the "Y" feed wire from the tstat. Doug
dougrainer 06/24/15 12:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Replacing Dometic Air Conditioner

Thanks for the comments. It will help me talk a little more intelligently when I call around. As for the problem... It's been longstanding, at least in some form or other. About 5 years ago, the furnace became erratic. It would not work below about 40 degrees. I had it worked on several times, by different shops and never did get it fixed until (MAYBE) this winter. Now, this spring, when out for the first time, the AC's... (BOTH of them) would not blow cold air on AC setting. In fact, the compressor would kick on, but it would blow hot (heat pump) air instead of cold. Took it to the shop and they said they got the front one working, but the back one worked for a few minutes and died. So, they want an obscene amount of money to get the back one going. I think they just don't want to work on it any more and shot me a price I would never agree to??? We shall see. I'm picking it up this afternoon. Thanks again for the help. I'm not on here much anymore, but I know where to go when I'm in trouble. Kind of like your kids (grin) IF you have the older Dometic HP and it blows HOT when calling for cool, you either have a bad reversing valve electric switch or the reversing valve is BAD. The switch can be replaced. The VALVE cannot and the unit is trash. YOUR model HP, IF the reversing valve circuit fails, the unit blows HOT when calling for cool. The NEW Dometic HP's, because of that default, now blow COLD if the reversing valve system fails. Because of this change in design, the NEW Penguin HP's will NOT work with the older 5 button wall tstat. The new Penguins come with the 12 button tstat control board already mounted on the unit. So, you MUST buy and install the 12 button to 5 button change out kit and install it on the NEW Penguin HP units. This lets the unit operate with your 5 button wall tstat. As I mentioned, IF both units are 11/12 years old, it would be best to replace BOTH roof top Penguin HP's and then just purchase the 12 button wall tstat. Because the New Penguin HP's already have the 12 button control board installed as part of the price. It is all plug and play, no wires to run. The new 12 button has programming capabilities for times on and off like Home type tstats. Doug
dougrainer 06/24/15 12:33pm Class A Motorhomes
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