Some older refrigerators operated on 110 Va/c, 12 DCv and propane, those had the disadvantage that they would run the house battery down very fast, so the manufacturer decided that only 110 Va/c and propane where a better deal.
Today all are 110Va/c and propane and they can switch from one source to the other so long as the house battery is conected.
When you had a 3 way RV refer, the refer was and is not designed to COOL DOWN on 12 volt heat Element. Never was. The 12 volt Heat Element was for In Transit operation to MAINTAIN the existing cold in the refer. In the 1980's Dometic came out with the AES control system for the 3 way refers. You had an Ignition activation controlled wire to activate the 12 volt element. This Ignition wire was optional. NO Ignition wire with 12 volts, then the 12 volt element would not activate. With a Motorhome, you ran a 12 volt wire from the ignition side to the refer. With a Towable, you ran the Ignition wire from the Tow vehicle thru the CENTER post of the 7 way Bargman tow plug to the refer. 3 way refer's now, they just make YOU understand that you must have the Engine running when you engage the 12 volt heat Element. Doug
Norcold only sells complete doors, no replacement gaskets. Frost is
normal on full timers. The test is to defrost and do a dollar bill test. You insert a dollar bill at all areas with the door closed and you should feel the friction when pulling it thru the gasket. The odds of BOTH doors having worn out gaskets is rare. Make sure that you do NOT have anything in the freezer that would push against the doors to keep them from fully closing and sealing completely. Doug
I would get the standard Monitor Panel Well nut (3/8 inch hole to be drilled), insert the well nut and then liberally Loctite the screw threads and install the threaded screw and let sit overnight. There is also a Well nut that does NOT have the removable screw, but threads that will seal this type tank. Doug
This is the 2nd one I would use.
This is the first one
I have found, that with stranded wire, you tighten as tight as you can, then wait a few minutes and re-tighten. You will be surprised how much the 2nd torquing will yield. The stranded wire has time to collapse and then the 2nd try completes the job and they do not come loose. Using Locktite is NOT a good idea. With Locktite you will have the set screw glued at the set spot, then when the wires collapse, the screw will then be loose, since you will have to tighten it again. It is NOT the screw coming loose(backing off), it is the wire strands collapsing that causes the looseness. Doug
Turn it off for 24 hours to let it cool down. Restart and run for 24 hours. IF it does not cool correctly you have a "cooked" cooling unit. You will have to replace the cooling unit. Depending on how long it ran with blocked ventilation will determine if you severely damaged the cooling unit. Doug
Doug, Last year the recall box light came on steady, and they checked the frig out and just the box was bad. Now the box light is on again steady, sorry fore the wrong info before.....
shop replaced the box and thought that was all it was, then issues with it getting red light on again, now say the control board is the problem? Who knows!
Who Knows? I know as that is what I do for a living. The control box has NOTHING to do with the function of the Recall box. There are 2 ways the recall box is installed. It depends on the Model of the Rear main control module. The older units, the recall is installed BEFORE the 12 volt input to the Main control module. Newer units are wired to terminals inside the Main control module and IF you have that module, you will get the Li-OP display on the inside optical display. Now, as I stated, you ALWAYS replace the Thermocoupler sensor AND the Recall box as a set. If you did not get the Li-OP code, you have the older which has NO connection with the module board. You may have a defective cooling unit and the recall is just doing its job. Sometimes you cannot see the yellow residue as it is inside the burner flue area if you have a leaker. What I would be doing if I had the unit, I would hot wire the 2 120 elements for 24 hours and make sure the rear cooling fans are on or install an extra fan blowing up if they will not come on. If the rear cooling fans do not come on, THAT is part of your problem. The fans are required to operate on a 1200. Doug
The LAST Dodge Class A chassis was 1979. There was a severe glut of Dodge Chassis back then. There were 1982 titled motorhomes with 1979 Dodge chassis. The CORRECT Year and Title date is the COACH Date, NEVER the chassis year. When the Motorhomes are manufactured, they issue a MSO (Manufacturer Statement of Origin). There is NEVER a title issued as that is a function of Government. The Dealer gets the MSO and once sold, it is given to the local Gov. office that issues Titles. The MSO WILL have the correct Year date for the Motorhome and will NOT be based on the Chassis year. MOST Gov Title people know how this is done, but you always run into untrained or ignorant people that do not take the time to do their job correctly. Then you have to jump threw hoops to get it corrected. Dealerships run into this all the time on used units. Doug
I would check the CENTER unused pin on the trailer side. Make sure it is not connected to anything in the trailer or the tow truck. This pin is used for reverse lights if the trailer has them or an activation wire for a aftermarket part installed on the trailer, which you do not have. VERIFY that the GROUND pin on the truck side and trailer side is connected to a good ground. You cannot rely on the hitch ball to make a good ground connection. Doug
Well, here we go again! Norcold 1200LRIM frig on the blink again. Cooling unit replaced in February 2011.
Recall box installed at that time. Recall overheat sensor failed summer of 2013 and replaced under warranty with Norcold revision "E"!
Now I have mh in shop for blinking light on frig again, they changed the overheat temp sensor and running frig today, said it is working correctly. Called later today and said failed, think control board is bad, troubleshooting it tomorrow.
When is enough enough...and just put a residential one in...already out $2000 for the cooling unit 2 1/2 years ago now.....?
You said the LED on the recall box is "blinking"? I have NEVER seen the recall box LED blink. It is either ON(failed) or OFF. You do NOT replace just the Overheat sensor, you replace the complete kit with new recall box. Hopefully they did replace the complete kit not just the sensor. IF failed again at the shop, then the odds are you have either a failed cooling unit(leaker) or the ventilation is blocked. The normal operating temp of the refer is about 350 degrees. The Overheat sensor does not trip until over 700 degrees. So, if NEW recall kit installed and the new kit tripped, the system DID ITS JOB. It is not a false trip. Doug
Open the POP OFF valve and make sure your water heater has water in it. You may have the bypass valves in the wrong position, your 5 minutes is about the time it takes for an empty water heater to overheat and trip the tstat if no water in it. Doug
For what it's worth .. my Class C is over 20 years old ... has wall thermostat that controls both heater and AC .. and the Coleman AC unit did not come with freezer sensor.
That does not mean it was never offered or installed. Years ago, a LOT of OEM's did not install the freeze sensor because the production workers did not know what they were. They threw them away. Doug
Leveling systems are NOT required. But, they make life easier if you have one. IF you have a slide out, you will want a leveling system installed. Motorhomes will lean to the extended slide out side without a leveling system. Most Class A's with slide outs built in the last 10 years have leveling systems. The only reason a Class A would not have one is, it does not have a slide out or the OEM was trying to save money and build a unit with a lower price point to compete with other OEM's. Doug
PS, this is one item that will add to your re-sell value down the road.
OP, if I understand your post above, it's working with the refer section at 37 degrees??? Unfortunately you have decreased the cooling capacity of your unit with a partial blockage that cannot be fixed. In warm weather you may have to add another fan to help it to cool enough. Good luck and keep us posted.
I'm not clear what you mean.
What I did was use the diagnostics to display the fin temperature.
The FIN temp shows your refer is NOT cooling correctly. The FIN temp will be 10 degrees COLDER than the refer. So, if your fin temp was 26 degrees the refer would be cooling to 36 degrees. Your refer is only cooling to 47 degrees. At this point you need to either go to the BOS mode or hot wire the 2 120 elements direct to 120 and make sure the cooling fans are running during the 24 hour test. If after 24 hours the refer is not at or below 36 degrees, your cooling unit is bad. You want to put a cup of water in the refer and measure the water temp,NOT the air temp after 24 hours. Doug
I will not belabor to argue the point further, but no....
20 years ago a t stat on the wall was the heater, and did not control the a/c
But, the point is, there are VERY FEW 20 year old RV's(towables) still in service. MOST of the complaints and calls for help on these forums are RV's no more than 15 years old. About 20 years ago, is when they started putting wall tstats in motorhomes. Doug
Very few RV AC units have roof mounted controls. IF you have roof mounted controls, you MUST leave it on Hi Cool in high ambient and hi humidity conditions to prevent freeze up. MOST RV units have a wall tstat and IF they have a wall tstat, they have a freeze sensor mounted in the evap coil. If installed correctly and functioning, the AC can NEVER freeze up from any parameter. So, if the OP has a wall tstat, he needs to check and verify the freeze sensor is indeed in the evap coil. Doug
i would say the Majority of Rv's ever MGF and on the road have the controls on the A/C units
yes most new middle and high end RV's of "CURRENT" mfg have t-stats on the wall for a/c and heat
don't know when the change over to wall mount t-stat became predominate in sales of new rv's, but, i don't think the are predominate in totality
only in new mfg for the past few years, maybe the past ten, maybe less
Well, lets look at EXPERIANCE. I have 35 years as an RV Tech, we sell Pop-ups to 500K motorhomes. We service ALL kinds. My statement is dead on. Pop ups will have roof mounted controls. Bare Bones small Trailers will have roof mounted controls. These 2 are in the extreme minority of sales. So, as I stated, the majority of RV's will have wall mounted tstats. Doug
Isn't a properly functioning expansion valve supposed to prevent freezing, regardless of fan speed?
NO, is the simple answer. Expansion valves are what help produce the cold, NOT regulate it. There is no "expansion" Valve on a RV roof top AC unit. The use a Capillary tube system. Even on RV Dash AC systems with a Expansion valve, there is a mechanical cold tstat that shuts the compressor off if the evaporator starts to freeze up. Doug
"ddstoval"......Try PPL Parts. They have parts for the Dometics and different models. They will also help you match up to what you have. You might also think about bumping up to a 15K if yours is a 13.5K predominately used in your era of coach.
You didn't say what was wrong with yours. Mine was only blowing hot air. They commonly have reversing valves that are easily replaceable that go bad. For about $50-$60 you can buy many of the common parts (start capacitor, reversing valve) from PPL to tune up the old unit.
Reversing valves are NOT an available part from Dometic. The ELECTRIC COIL that engages the reversing valve is the only available part. Doug