RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 1149 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 58  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Rv GPS programming for Trailer ?

Tiffin told us at the last Tech school to program TOTAL length for the RV and tow vehicle. Doug
dougrainer 09/04/15 05:37am Tech Issues
RE: New thermostat, does that it need a delay?

You don't need a delay. The Coleman compressors have their own internal short cycle delay. The delay will not allow the compressor to restart for about two minutes when power is lost or shut off. This is to let the pressure bleed off prior to restart. WRONG. The delay is built into the wall tstat. Doug You are correct in the OPs case... However, my system of two ducted Coleman A/Cs uses the Intellitec ECC and there is NO delay in the wall thermostat. I was incorrect in stating that the A/C compressor contained the delay, when it is actually located in the ECC controller. Your RV is 18 years old. Lets try to keep advice on at least RV's built in the last 10 years. THAT is what my expert advice is based on and the fact that the OP stated he was buying NEW tstats. AS to your case. IS the EMS Intellitec the one Fleetwood used back then that BOTH AC units were controlled by that ECC system at one wall panel that had a slider control for temp adjustment for each AC? If so, that system was designed just like the older RVP wall tstats. Since the system did not use a RVP built tstat, Intellitec incorporated the delay into their system. Winne and Fleetwood both used that system back then. Doug
dougrainer 09/04/15 05:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Diamond Shield

Whether it is Diamond Shield or 3M. MY opinion is, on motorhomes, you should allow at least 90 days for the paint to "cure" before installing any type shield. Back in the early 2000's before the factory's offered the shields as an option, we had 3M installed on sold motorhomes and NEVER had any type problem. Once the Factory's offered it as an option, we started seeing the type problems that are on this thread. Usually, the motorhomes had at least a month to cure before we sold them. At the factory, the shield is installed within a few days of being painted. IMO, if the paint has had time to cure and the product is professionally installed, there are no problems. Doug THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH BOTH PRODUCTS. IT IS HOW IT IS INSTALLED AND WHAT IT IS INSTALLED ON. If the paint or fiberglass is not properly set up and cured, then the product will have problems. If NOT installed correctly, it will have problems. After observing numerous installs on motorhomes, it is the INSTALLER than can make a big difference.
dougrainer 09/03/15 05:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Kwikee Step Problem

Run the chassis engine when hitting the motor. That extra 1.5 volts is needed to get a bad motor to kick free. Doug
dougrainer 09/02/15 05:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New thermostat, does that it need a delay?

Thanks I will get the thermostat without out the delay. You do not understand. IF you are buying a RVP tstat, it already has the delay. Doug
dougrainer 09/01/15 01:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New thermostat, does that it need a delay?

Most residential stats have a setting for "heat anticipator" which is needed for home furnaces but is not used for rv's. Your time delay is built in to the heater control panel and there is no time delay in the stat. There may be exceptions to this but I'm not aware of them. Wrong also, The delay is built into the wall Tstat. Doug
dougrainer 09/01/15 01:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New thermostat, does that it need a delay?

You don't need a delay. The Coleman compressors have their own internal short cycle delay. The delay will not allow the compressor to restart for about two minutes when power is lost or shut off. This is to let the pressure bleed off prior to restart. WRONG. The delay is built into the wall tstat. Doug
dougrainer 09/01/15 01:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New thermostat, does that it need a delay?

ALL current RVP wall tstats have a compressor time delay. Post the P/N of the Tstat you purchased. But, NO, you do not have to have the delay. The delay is just a convienance factor for RV'ers that would attempt a quick restart without allowing the compressor head pressure to equalize. Doug
dougrainer 09/01/15 07:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV Repair Work at Camping World

Yes, CW will warranty their work as well as most RV service companies. YOUR problem is, YOU fixed the one problem without giving CW a chance to rectify their error. You should have called them back and explained that you paid for the EMS problem to be fixed and it was NOT. Did you not check the EMS system before you left CW? Or did it work when you left CW? Doug
dougrainer 09/01/15 06:04am Camping World Service and Installation
RE: Penguin A/C compressor locked up

If you replace the penguin with a current penguin the penguin comnes with the 12 button control board and as you realize you have to purchase a 12 to 5 button control board kit and install it on the penguin. IF you want to go the Brisk air route, you will have purchase a 5 button upper control board kit that this kit, the board comes in a metal galvanized box and you make your various connections on the pigtails of this box. It will have the Phone type plugs on the side of the box. You MUST specify that you want a 12 button to 5 button Brisk air conversion kit and want the kit that has the galvanized housing that the control board mounts in. This is only if you are buying a Brisk Air HP. If you purchase a standard Brisk Air AC, you just purchase the standard 5 button control kit in the galvanizes box. Doug
dougrainer 08/31/15 12:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electrical Issue 30 vs 50 Amps

Your Y splitter, the second leg was not connected to 120 power. So, only 1/2 of your RV had 120 power. Obviously the Inverter/charger side did not have incoming 120 power to activate the charger section. Doug
dougrainer 08/31/15 12:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Magnum 3000 Inverter Issue

1. Disconnect the large 12 volt positive cable to the Inverter for 10 minutes and then reconnect to reset a Inverter. DO NOT have the 120 shore power or Genset ON when you do this. 2. The 50 amp or 30 amp setting only has to do with how MUCH 12 volt amps are used when charging the batteries. The default is always 30 amp when power has been disconnected. The difference between 30 and 50 is about 1 hour difference in bulk charging so just let the 30 amp stay. On 50 amp the bulk charge rate will draw about 12 to 13 amps AC amperage. On 30, the amp draw is about 9 to 11 amps. This is ONLY while the system is in BULK charge and it will go off bulk charge quickly (less than 1 hour) if the batteries are at least 75% fully charged. Doug
dougrainer 08/30/15 07:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Roottop AC

How large (small) is your genset? A 50 amp system would need at least a 6000K genset but since there is also a "surge" factor it might take 7-8K to simply break even. I have a 15K genset on board and have never encountered a similar issue but I certainly can see where this could be an issue. A Genset 5.5 or larger has more than enough power to start and run 2 AC units. Doug
dougrainer 08/30/15 07:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Roottop AC

There are a lot of smart people on these forums. How come NOBODY on this thread noticed one thing???? He stated on 50 amp service he did not notice a spike or problems. But on 30 amp he did. HOW DOES THE "BAD" AC KNOW HE IS ON 30 AMP SERVICE?????????????? Appliances do NOT know what the total amperage is available. They only "see" current(voltage). Which may mean his available voltage is NOT steady at 115 or higher. Also, you cannot expect to run 2 AC units on 30 amp service as the breakers are going to trip. His tell is when he is on Genset. THAT points to he DOES need either a new compressor start capacitor or just spend a few extra dollars and install a Hard Start kit. The compressor is aged and the extra jolt from a hard start capacitor will probably fix his problem. He also needs to install a Hard Start on the other AC as it does not cost that much and will probably help him out down the line. Doug
dougrainer 08/30/15 07:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: LP Fill Fail

1. YOU ALWAYS OPEN THE 80% VALVE WHEN FILLING---NO EXCEPTIONS 2. If it is NOT opened when filling, you are violating the LP regulations for filling. The purpose of the 80% valve be opened while filling is NOT(NOT) to allow air to escape. There is NO air in a properly purged LP tank. ONLY LP VAPOR. 3. The REASON for the 80% valve to be opened is simple. IF you get liquid LP out of the 80% BEFORE the Auto shut off stops the fill, YOU STOP THE FILL REGARDLESS. The tank has reached its safe fill when Liquid comes out of the 80% valve. Auto Shut Offs are not that accurate at times. 4. YOU OPEN THE 80% ON PORTABLE DOT CYLINDERS ALSO FOR THE SAME REASON. AND shut off for the same reason. Doug
dougrainer 08/30/15 07:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: GFI circuit problems...

The 120 element trips a GFCI, because a GFCI DOES NOT really sense a SHORT. What it does is sense the imbalance between the White(Neutral) and HOT(black) wire. Which a SHORT does make happen. But in this case, the 120 element does not have a ground wire, just the Hot and Neutral. The Element IS inside a metal steel tube which is connected to the RV ground. When a Refer 120 element BLEEDS current(defective element) it will cause that imbalance of current and if ON a GFCI circuit will trip the GFCI. If NOT on a GFCI circuit, the 120 element will operate as designed, as that bleed is not enough to cause a Circuit Breaker trip as from a short. Doug
dougrainer 08/30/15 07:02am Tech Issues
RE: LP Fill Fail

let me spell this out more clearly, the vent did not fall off, it was/is there in tact. She did turn it open a little to see if there was any gas in there which there was not, then she pulled the handle and propane shot out, but I could not see from where as I backed away. Maybe the gasket was missing on the nozzle, or like some said the bleeder valve is bad. I'm going to take it apart You state LP came OUT. You mean LIQUID came out or LP VAPOR came out? Out of the 80% valve(bleeder) or the fill nozzle area? If the fill nozzle area, then the gasket was missing or not seated. If LIQUID came out of the Bleeder, the tank was FULL. If Vapor came out the Bleeder, that is normal. Regardless, the person filling your LP tank is NOT qualified and should NOT be filling LP tanks, PERIOD. I will assume in your State, there are no regulations that govern LP operations. Doug
dougrainer 08/30/15 06:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: GFI circuit problems...

Ohming out this type problem will NOT work. This type problem, the Heat Element will work and show correct resistance when plugged into a NON GFCI plug. What you DO, is, disconnect the 120 element from the control board and operate the refer on 120. If it does NOT trip the GFCI, replace the 120 element. This is just to prove to you that it IS the Heat Element. I KNOW it is the heat element from years of fixing this type problem. Doug
dougrainer 08/29/15 06:27am Tech Issues
RE: GFI circuit problems...

The problem is the refer 120 element. Replace it. Doug
dougrainer 08/28/15 03:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic Refrigerator

According to Dometic, the models with NO climate switch, the Heater does run 24/7. You also disconnect AT the interior light module. Doug Current production units 6 cubic foot and up. When the refer is on the climate heater is on constant no timer. Frame heater .4 amp. Control system running on AC .2 amp Control system running on GAS .3 amp.
dougrainer 08/28/15 01:51pm Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 58  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2015 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS