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Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Replacing 12 volt Engine Battery

Really good responses, guys and very helpful. I'll head out to check out a few batteries next week. Thanks for the input.
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exportman
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11/21/09 08:14pm |
Tech Issues
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Replacing 12 volt Engine Battery

It is time to change the 12 volt battery in the engine compartment of the motor home. Did a search here but couldn't find what I wanted so here goes.
My existing 12 volt has a group size of 78-72mf and a CCA number of 750. It is a side terminal battery. The positive connection is a threaded bolt and the negative connection is a female thread so that the small bolt on the negative wire screws into the battery. The engine is a 7.4 liter (454) in a Bounder motor home.
Any recommendations as to brand?
Is the 78-72 mf a standard number that applies to all manufacturers?
Thanks.
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exportman
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11/21/09 12:00pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Clicking, ticking sound from front wheel

Thanks to all who offered suggestions to fix my little problem.
I took the wheel cover off and drove the RV around the block really slow and didn't hear any clicking/ticking sound. Then I made sure that all of the artificial lug nuts were tight on the wheel cover ( one was a little loose) then put it back on the rim and secured it tightly but not too tight. The next drive around the block was good news. No noise. Seems like the problem is solved.
Again, thanks for the suggestions.
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exportman
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11/09/09 05:05pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Clicking, ticking sound from front wheel

So many terrific suggestions. I'll check them out this weekend.Thanks.
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exportman
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11/06/09 01:21pm |
Tech Issues
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Clicking, ticking sound from front wheel

I have a 32-foot class A on a Chev-workhorse chassis. When I slow down or start up I get a clicking, ticking sound from the wheel on the driver side front. The clicking speeds up as the vehicle goes faster and slows down as I stop. It is only heard while moving. Can't tell if it does it a higher speeds because the engine noise drowns it out. I removed the wheel cover just to see if there might have been a stone in there rotating around as the wheel turned. Nothing was in there.
The question therefore is whether anybody has had a similar problem and what suggestions there might be before I have to bring it down to a dealer. Thanks.
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exportman
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11/05/09 08:41pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Removing a wheel cover

Thanks for the help, everyone. I got a bite on the nuts with a monkey wrench and they came loose. All is well. Thanks again.
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exportman
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11/05/09 03:39pm |
Tech Issues
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Removing a wheel cover

I want to remove the wheel cover of Bounder Class A RV and need advice. It is 19.5" with 10 lug nuts. It is a fairly standard wheel cover used by most of the RV companies with motor homes in the 26-34-foot size range.
Do I understand that only one or two of the 10 lugnuts actually hold the cover on. If so, how do I know which ones are the removeable nuts? Is there a special tool needed or will the tire iron do it? Thanks.
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exportman
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11/05/09 03:01pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: how to get a laptop working in motorhome

Dutch 12078 andBillh:
How does the tethering work? Is is just a unique connection cord from the phone to the laptop? I assume it is a "dial up" so is a little slow, is this right? How do you get to the internet? Do you just set up a dial up connection to Verizon or Sprint in some type of set up mode? Is the cost based on your regular minute charge? Thanks. This is very helpful
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exportman
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10/14/09 10:03pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: For Jalama Beach and Lake Cachuma fans..good news!

I'm not sure where this proposal is on the approval list. However, I love the place and can't help but think that as a former resident of Newbury Park and now living in Clovis I could visit this wonderful beach campgground more often if I knew that I could get a site. It's nuts to drive 50, 100 or 200 miles and be turned away with virtually no other nice campgrounf to go to as a back up. It makes so much more sense to set aside some sites for reservations for those of us travelling long distances. Why not set aside at least a few on the water, a few in the middle and a few up on top as reservable sites.
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exportman
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10/13/09 10:10pm |
RV Parks, National Parks, State Campgrounds & More
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RE: how to get a laptop working in motorhome

Re obgraham's response, I have a question about #2. $60 per month for a connection fee is a lot of $$ given the likely 2 year commitment required. For those of us NOT full-timers and who already have a service at home is there an option to buy the card outright at Best Buy for example and then pay on a month to month basis for the connection fee to Verizon of AT&T? The $60 per month is reasonable for the months being used but not for the 9 months the RV isn't.
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exportman
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10/11/09 11:53am |
Technology Corner
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RE: Is an accumulator tank necessary

JUrban
Just wondering when You put yr Shurflo Smart Sensor in whether the 4.0 is OK or is the 5.7 that much better. Thanks.
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exportman
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10/10/09 03:57pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Is an accumulator tank necessary

But Shurflo makes an accumulator tank and the camping world part is #2290. No disrespect, but are you sure they don't recommend it?
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exportman
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10/09/09 06:16pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Is an accumulator tank necessary

T Bone:
I'm missing something. What is a Pex?
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exportman
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10/09/09 05:40pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Is an accumulator tank necessary

Rolling Condo
Thanks for the FloJet suggestion. It looks nice and compact and easy to install but the price is more than double Shur Flo. I need to think about that.
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exportman
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10/09/09 01:18pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Is an accumulator tank necessary

John
the reviews on the CW site are mixed for the particular unit you recommend. Understanding you're having good luck with it, I'm wondering if you also have an accumulator tank in that big coach you drive.
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exportman
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10/09/09 10:04am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Is an accumulator tank necessary

Further info to my post, in 2005, I was having some installation work done at the CW store in Rocklin, Ca. One of the items was a new pump. After it was installed, the pump wouldn't pump anything more than a trickle out the faucet. The installer said I needed an accumulator tank which he didn't have in stock. So, I told him to take out the newly purchased pump and put the old one back in. I've been living with an ever increasing noisy pump since then. Was this guy just mis-informed? Why wouldn't that new Shur-Flo pump work?
On edit, I am reading the posting above this one re the tank. Hmmm.
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exportman
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10/09/09 09:38am |
Tech Issues
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Is an accumulator tank necessary

I am looking to buy a new Shur flo water pump. My old one is much too noisy. The whisper king model offered at Camping World looks to meet my needs. However, I'm wondering about accumulator tanks. Is it a necessary item with this pump or is it just nice to have?
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exportman
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10/09/09 09:28am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Surge Protector

Thanks for the input and advice everybody. I removed the old 30 amp receptacle and bought the new one and installed it. All works fine. In examining the old one, the round hole (ground) looks like the contacts had come loose inside. All is well now.
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exportman
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08/30/09 09:29am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Surge Protector

When I plug the 30 amp cord into the 30 amp recptacle, I get power but not the ground signal/light. But when I use an adapter going from the 30 amp down to a 15/20 amp plug and plug that in to the same box (which has a 30 amp and two 20s), I get the green/ground light.That tells me that the ordinary plug 15/20s is OK but not the 30amp receptacle.
I'm thinking that the 30 amp receptacle nmay have partally bit the dust.It gets the juice but maybe not the ground. So, for $9 I'm going to replace the receptacle and see what happens. Anybody disagree?
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exportman
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08/25/09 10:06pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Surge Protector

Pls explain "probably missing a ground in the RV." Does this mean my rv isn't grounded?
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exportman
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08/23/09 05:52pm |
Tech Issues
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