Dennis has given good advice. Don't worry about the truckers as they are just out there doing a job. The only conversations I've had with them have all been pleasant.
On this last trip, I began to look for the next refueling stop during down time the night before, and google maps will let you see an aerial view of the selected truck stop so that you can see how to enter to get to the fuel pumps and then how to exit.
Enjoy your new DP. Pictures?
(...text deleted...) as long as I've been camping, starting with a couple of trucks and campers, then, two class Cs, a '78 Dodge "4-Star" (440 cu.in.), an '89 Ford Class C, (460 cu.in.), a '99 Fleetwood Bounder Class A with the V-10 and finally, our present coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 C-7 CAT and, every one of those units have the engine alternator charge both sets of batteries.
(...text deleted....) but, are you sure that you don't have something broke or, disconnected that is supposed to be charging your house batteries while driving? Sure seems a bit odd to me but, again, I'm no expert. Just wondering.
Thanks for your post.
I would love to find an existing charging circuit to keep the house batteries up while driving.
When the chassis is produced by Freightliner and delivered to the manufacturer of the motorhome, it only has cranking batteries. The house batteries are added by the motorhome manufacturer. As far as I can tell, Holiday Rambler (Monaco) did not add the charging circuit to this model. If anyone out there that has a 2000 era Holiday Rambler on a Freightliner chassis reads this, please chime in and let us know if your chassis has a device to automatically tie the two circuits together.
Any/all ideas welcome.
ALL Monaco/HR built motorhomes charge BOTH battery banks from the Engine Alternator. Regardless of year. The fact that you have verified yours does NOT, means nothing except your system is malfunctioning. Find and fix the dual charging problem also. IF your APU (Genset) was running during the voltage spike, that may be your problem, Was your Genset running? Doug
Thanks for the reply Doug. I have learned a lot from all of your posts.
I am positive that there is nothing in the battery compartment tying both battery banks together, and I've been into/around most everything on this coach since buying it about 10 years ago. This coach is on the Freightliner chassis. Is there somewhere beside the battery compartment that could house the dual charging components?
More Info. Model 413-05 V3.02 Sony Monitor. When you go to reverse the camera works but when in drive it goes back to the main screen and the joystick will not control the monitor. Anyway to wire it where just the monitor runs all the time? Thanks Randy
I don't know about the Sony monitor, but most LCD monitors have two control wires. One makes the monitor come on when the coach is in reverse, and the other makes the monitor come on when power is applied to that wire. You could remove the monitor and try swapping the two leads.
If you could find an installation manual for your monitor it would make the job much easier.
Good luck. Of course the best solution is getting the aladdin system working again.
In Baton Rouge, stay at Farr Park Equestrian Center. Electic and Water (nice dump station) in the middle of BR, great folks running the park. Do check directions heading in, so you don't have to cross high railroad crossing. When my dad became critically ill while we were staying there, they lead me to hospital after I closed up RV. They told me to stay as long as needed and just pay them when I got ready to leave. Park is nothing fancy, but convenient and watching the horses in the paddock was relaxing.
X2. We enjoyed watching the horses, and the students in training during the late afternoon. Nice, quiet park. PS..No sewer and sign on dump station states $10 dump fee but that fee is for folks not staying in the park.
Where is your voltage measured? Most of the time voltage reported is at the output of the charger/ alternator. So your batteries will actually be getting significantly less than 14 volts if that is the case.
12V has a significantly higher voltage drop over a cable run than 120V.
The VMSpc takes the voltage reported over the data bus to the diagnostic plug at the front of the coach. I really don't know specifically where it measures the voltage. I suspect the engine ecm sends it to the chassis VDC then into the data bus.
Look at your alternator. If it has a separate "sense" wire vs just having it wired off the B+ terminal, you might check that its connection to your chassis battery, isolator or where ever it is connected is clean and tight.
With an external sense wire, if there is resistance, it does not "sense" the full voltage and can lead to overcharging.
I am not suggesting that a little over 14 VDC is overcharging in cold conditions, but is something that can be easily checked.
Thanks for the tip. I didn't even know what a separate sense wire was, but just found a good description on the net. I'll check for this.
Oh yeah I forgot putting the front slide out the drivers seat wasn't up far enough and the slide caught and ripped the back. My brain has been in neutral to much. :o
We've all had these kind of days. After rubbing the driver's seat with the slide, I taped a small sign over the slide switch that I have to lift up to get to the switch. Since doing this, I haven't hit the driver's seat with the slide (yet).
It will get better.:)
14.1 to 14.3 volts is very high in the SUMMER. In winter, it is actually normal with a alternator that has temperature compensation.
Thanks for this info. I'm usally driving in hot weather, so this winter weather was a change and the voltages looked a little out of line. I'll consider it normal unless it continues in the hot weather also.
This forum is a great resource. Thanks for all the replies.
Fred (the other fred)
I maybe mistaken but I am pretty sure your house batteries do in fact charge off your alternator while the engine is running. I think you will find your chassis batteries charge first then after your chassis batteries are up to around 13.6 volts the Trombetta relay energizes and now the house batteries charge also. Look at your monitor panel to see what the house battery voltage is before starting your engine, after driving a while check it again and I think you will see a higher voltage.
Back to your post I think you will see lower voltages in warmer outside temps.
Blessings and Merry Christmas
My coach does not have the Trombetta relay, so no charging of the house batteries from the engine alternator. I've also verified this with a voltmeter on the house batteries. Somewhere in the years after 2000, Monaco added the relay.
Yep, most of the kits include a compressor.
I just did a quick search on ebay, and found the 1/4 inch electric solenoid and a single trumpet air horn. With those two items, you'd only need a switch, some tubing, and wiring. You can also get a used air horn from a big truck junk yard, and may be able to get the solinoid there also.
On my Endeavor, the air horn is beside the generator on the passenger side, with the trumpet pointed down toward the road.
The motorhome is described in signature block below. With the VMSpc monitor, I normally see voltage in the range of 13.6 to 13.8. Today on the highway, I am seeing 14.1 to 14.3, then back to 13.9. When stopped for a quick lunch with the engine on fast idle (1000 rpm), I was seeing 14.3 and sometimes 14.4 volts. We were operating in temps of 40 to 50 degrees, so I don't suspect the grid heater turning on.
On this coach, the house batteries are not linked to the cranking batteries in any manner, so the alternator is only charging the cranking batteries and supplying voltage to operate the chassis.
Need advice on what the most likely cause of this could be, or maybe some troubleshooting advice. I'm thinking one or both of the 2 year old cranking batteries may be going bad, but they still crank great. I felt of both of them as soon as we stopped for the day, and they were not warm so I don't suspect overcharging. I'm also considering that the voltage regulator in the alternator may be beginning to fail. The alternator has about 100,000 miles on it.
Is 14.3 to 14.4 too high for charging voltage? Your thoughts appreciated.
Yes, you can hook your 2 battery banks together (+ to +) with alligator clips. I would suggest at least 8 gauge wire. Just remember to remove the jumper if you boon dock.
As previously mentioned, the Ultra Trik-L-Start is a very good option.
Install it and forget it.
x2 been doing this for years.
The 1996 Dutch Star that was my first motorhome had manual locks on the end of each slide (one on each end). If your design is like that, you must unlock those first. I hope your problem is that simple.
When we're boondocking, I can balance the two tank levels using the third valve I installed on the main waste outlet. That usually buys us at least two or three more days before we need to dump, sometimes more.
X2. This works well.
I would sell my RV north of Atlanta, take a cab through Atlanta, and buy a whole new RV south of town. Then continue my trip!
(An Atlanta-born native!)
I just found this post when searching for info on by-passing ATL. Thanks for the laugh!!!!
We lived in Atlanta for years, and I got a big laugh out of this post also.
To the original poster, it really is not all that bad. You've received some good advice.
All of the Power Gear system's I've seen sense jacks up by the level of fluid in the reservoir using a simple float switch. Get all the jacks completely up, and the fluid should be up to or very near the plug for adding fluid. Being just a little low can cause the alarm to sound.
I have seen the float switch become out of position if the mount gets twisted.
well, we drove it home today. Got used to riding in it in about, oh, 2 minutes :) Only one problem. We FROZE. There was heat coming out, but not transferring to the rest of the coach. I don't look forward to wearing coats, gloves and hats like I did today on our trip. We can't figure out how to get the radio to work, either. What else....the heater thermostat doesn't work either, gotta get that fixed. brrrrr...I'm still chilled from the 3 1/2 hour drive home. lol Sure is fun riding in it :)
Congratulations on getting your new diesel motorhome. From your other post, I see that you have a 1999 Holiday Rambler Endeavor....37 foot, which will be very much like my motorhome.
The engine that produces the hot coolant for the heater is a loooooong way from the heater. If like my coach, the hot coolant does not flow directly to the heater, but first goes through the outside jacket of the water heater (to give you hot water while on the road). This will reduce the coolant temp a little bit. Moving that coolant through 37 feet of heater hose will also cool it a little. My motorhome has very poor dash heat, and always has. I'll admit that I've done little to try to correct this problem. I have sealed up some air leaks along the front of the motorhome to reduce the air infiltration while moving down the road.
When we travel in the cold, I run the generator and the two roof heat pumps, or if it's really cold I run the propane furnace.
I just repaired my atwood water heater using one of atwood's troubleshooting guides.
Look at the website below and see if any of the multiple troubleshooting guides for surburban sw10de heaters will help.
multiple troubleshooting guides sw10de