Oh, yes they do. Our house is about 60 yards across the street from a salt-water marina waterfront (the houses across are about a half mil more than ours!). The first season we owned our rig, I decided to put the jacks down for storage. Within about 3 weeks, the piston rods were showing signs of corrosion. I polished it off and retracted the jacks.
When I queried the system manufacturer, they said it was OK to leave the jacks down if you weren't "close" to salt water. When I asked them to define "close" their reply was "within 60 miles". We're within 60 yards. Now, I'm even reluctant to put the jacks out when were close to the ocean on an overnight!
What I decided to do was to go out once a month and jack up one end until the tires are off the ground. I then rotate the wheels about 2/3 of a turn. The following month, I do the same at the other end. After our typical off-season, the tires have been rotated at least 2/3 of a turn, and maybe a full turn. I reckon that's enough to prevent flat-spotting. The tires were new three years ago, and I don't see any evidence of damage. We've only put 5000 miles on them so far.
The first winter we had our Georgetown, I figured taking most of the weight off the tires, rather than having them stationary for 5 months in one position was probably better. It might have benefitted the tires, but. within a week or so, I noticed rust on the exposed piston rods of the jacks.
I polished it off and retracted the jacks. I contacted the manufacturer of the levelling system to inquire about leaving them out. Their reply was "As long as you're not close to salt water, you can leave them extended." When I inquired what their definition of "close" was, their reply was "within 60 miles". Since we're within about 60 yards (houses across the street are salt-water marina waterfront), I don't leave them down any more. I'm even leery about using them at waterfront campgrounds!
What I do now, about once a month during winter season, is to levitate front or back jacks until the wheels at that end are just off the ground (my third driveway is nearly flat and was specifically laid as an RV storage driveway), then I rotate the wheels at that end about 2/3 of a turn. Repeat at the other end the following month. At the end of our approximately 5-month annual downtime, the wheels on both axles have supported the static load in three different directions.
I don't know if it helps the tires or not, but I figure it can't hurt.
A follow-up to my earlier post - watch out for fridge problems. The Dometic unit in ours died in April, just as we were 2 days from leaving on a 3-week trip down the Oregon coast. It got cut to 2 weeks and we got a new fridge after we got back. The average lifespan of those things is 10 years and we were out about $1800 to replace it.
We had a couple of other problems. The first was the slide topper on the living room slide. The original owners had always parked it at their house with the slides deployed. The LR side of the rig faced south. When we looked at the MH, the leading edge of the topper for that slide was frayed. We didn't think it was a problem, but in fact, the entire topper fabric was rotted away, leaving just the netting-like substrate. We got rain water into the dinette cabinets. Fortunately, there was no other damage and I was able to build a replacement.
Our second, still unresolved issue is the generator. I was out of action for about 3 months after a cardiac op and din't get out to the RV to run the generator. When I finally did try, it wouldn't start. Since we don't use it (being FHU campers!), I haven't chased it down, but I'll have to get it fixed before we try to sell.
Somewhere in Western Washington state, there's a double-decker that was professionally converted from a Neoplan bus. There was a post series about it on this group a few years back, but I couldn't find it.
Maybe the owner is still around and could re-post?
Since I rarely drive the RV after dark, I haven't bothered doing anything with mine. After being used to 100/75 watt Halogens on my cars in the UK. I found US headlights so dim, I was afraid to go more than 45 mph for fear the wind would blow them out. They're a bit better now they're more powerful than the 48/36 watt sealed beam lamps were in the 1960s,
Check whether it has Autopark. That can be a very troublesome system and its primary failure mode is to apply the parking brake when you're driving along. We decided not to consider a P30 or a Workhorse, primarily for that reason. We went with an '02 on a Ford F53 chassis with the V10 engine. We have had to replace the fridge this year - about an $1800 job.
Since we never drive after dark, our headlights are purely for other drivers to see us. There's enough square feet being lit that nobody can say they didn't see us coming.
There may be a 20% increase in light between the DRL mode and "real" headlights. but it's hard to tell.
To be honest, Seattle taxes for Metro Transit aren't part of the gasoline tax. They put that on the sales tax percentage and maybe as an add-on to vehicle taxes and maybe even an addition to property taxes. Since we don't live there, I can't be sure.
I think the gas tax increase is to pay for road and other infrastructure improvements. Goodness knows, the Seattle metropolitan area needs megabucks to solve its traffic woes. For those of us out in the dingle-weeds, their problems are none of ours, except the gas tax increase will affect us all. It may run us off the RV life-style - it's marginal already with the price of gas.
When I worked for Skagit Transit (75 miles north of metropolitan Seattle) we got the county taxpayers to approve a small increase in the sales tax to keep the system running. It's a very conservatively managed agency that provides useful service to the county, and works within its budget. The residents are favorably inclined.
We have a 2002 Georgetown 325, which is a 32-footer, F53 chassis and 6.8 L V-10. We bought it in 2010 from the original owner. Bedroom and dinette slides. It has about 15,000 miles from new, and we've put about 3K on it.
With the potential increase in gas tax in WA (an additional 11 cents) it's going to get to the point we can't afford the lifestyle any longer. If you're interested, send me a pm.
Running larger vehicles might get a LOT more expensive here in Washington before long. We already have one of the highest fuel taxes in the nation and the pols in Olympia are pushing for another 11 cents increase, to be imposed in January.
There doesn't seem to be much political opposition.
If you're anywhere near Mount Vernon, there's a truck-driving school in town (Biddix) that might be a place to start asking about lessons. They may have branches elsewhere, too.I was fortunate when I took a post-Boeing-retirement job as a transit coach driver for Skagit Transit and their instructor taught me about diesel pushers.
Driving a 40-footer on our express service through downtown Everett in evening rush-hour was scary the first couple of times, but it got me over the "hump" and our MH is no problem, though at 32-ft, it doesn't really qualify as "big".
Being fairly close to the US/Canada border, we see Triple E rigs quite often. I believe someone here in Anacortes has one. I've talked to owners on some of our trips and they've all been enthusiastic about them.
As a Georgetown owner (bought used from the original owner), I'd recommend the Southwind. It's a year younger (ref the 10-year rule at some CGs). When new, GTs were priced right for the marketplace, but the quality left something to be desired.
Our is "OK - but". The floor plan suits us quite well, two people and two Labradors, but the quality of construction isn't the greatest. I had to replace the cabinets over the dinette after a failed slide topper let the rain in. I was not impressed by the way it had been built.
The cabinetry looks good, solid oak doors, good quality hardware, but the stuff behind the doors is cheap hemlock with oak wood-tape stuck on. Electrical wiring looked like the shop floor techs had made it up as they went along with whatever color wire was handy.
Definitely would not recommend Georgetown, but I have no knowledge of the quality of your other option.
Don't know about Thor, but in my Georgetown the fresh-water tank is in a cupboard underneath the bedroom wardrobe/drawer complex. I drain it for the winter, but it's not at risk of freezing as I have electric (oil-filled radiator) heat in the MH to maintain an inside temp in the mid-30s F and the heater is close to the bedroom.
Since it'e pretty close to empty, it's not a problem if the quart or so remaining in the 20-gallon tank freezes. There's lots of room for it to expand.
When we first got our MH, I ran the generator about every 6 weeks for about 45 minutes with one a/c unit as a load. unless we'd actually used it during a trip. Since we're always FHU campers, and stay away from hot summer places, we'd only used it once (Eastern WA, July 4th, 108F) so we could run both a/c units.
In Dec 2011, I had a cardiac problem and had 4 stents installed. By the time I got around to going out to the RV to exercise the genny, 4 months had gone by. It hasn't run since. When trying to start it, it backfires like crazy, spits out clouds of white smoke, then dies.
I guess I'll have to get it fixed before we try to sell the MH. It's annoying that a generator with only 55 hours on it from new is so recalcitrant.
Based on the above, I'd definitely recommend running for "exercise" at least once every six weeks, even in summer, if it hasn't been used "for real". BTW, this is an '01 year generator ('02 MH) with a carburetor.
Our 32-footer (bought used) came with a complete spare wheel with tire (19.5 rim size). I don't think it has ever been taken off its mount since new! It's attached underneath the propane tank with a heavy chain and hook.
My only caution would be to be very careful about weight distribution on a long Class C. Before we bought our Class A, we looked at a few 31' C's on the the E450 chassis. The amount of rear overhang on many of them scared me to death.
I dug deep into the books on one of them (a Forester 31) and was amazed to see the empty weight numbers. The holding tanks and fresh-water tank were all aft of the rear wheels, and even with them empty, the rear axle was within 200 pounds of its weight limit.
For 30-minutes work with an air compressor and a quart or so of pink stuff, you wouldn't need to worry about it. To be technical, the pipes don't freeze - PEX is solid at regular atmospheric temps. It's the water that freezes, and unfortunately, between +4C and 0 degrees C it expands, causing the pipes to burst.
We're Georgetown owners (32' 2002 model purchased in 2010 from original owners). It had just under 12,000 miles on it in 8 years. We've had three problems in three seasons.
The first was water into the living room slide out due to a rotted out slide topper. My fault for not realising the fabric was completely shot, leaving just the mesh. No damage to anything major, but I had to replace the overhead cabinets due to the moldy smell. I built a new set, utilising just the doors and associated hardware from the originals.
Once "under the skin". I was less than impressed by build quality, particularly in the wiring for the overhead lights and the manner in which the cabinets were attached to the ceiling/wall.
The second issue was self-inflicted. At the end of 2011, I had a cardiac issue that resulted in an angioplasty with four stents installed - all fine since. During convalescence, I missed the regular "exercise the generator" between December and March. It hasn't run since, despite my ministrations. It's not a big deal until we come to sell it, because all the hours on the meter (just over 60) suggest that even the first owners never used it - just exercised it. We've only used it once.
The third issue was the fridge. It died just two days before a 3-week trip down the Oregon coast in April. We replaced it when we got back, as the issue was a failed cooling unit. Since it's likely we'll be selling next year, we went with a new Dometic that fitted perfectly in the old slot. I couldn't see spending almost as much on replacing the cooling unit as a new fridge would cost, since the rest of the fridge hardware was the same age.
Overall, for the price we paid, it's a fairly good rig. It rides like an 11-ton box-truck, which is what it really is under the skin, but for 5,000 miles a year, we can live with it and spend the money on gas and CG fees.