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 > Your search for posts made by 'gijoecam' found 62 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: North American Truck of the Year

As for the V8 Ecoboost/Ecobeast I can only report what I was told. If they choose to lie then that is on them. Sad if that is what he was doing IMO. Don I wouldn't call it lying so much as protecting proprietary and confidential information. All Ford employees sign a confidentiality agreement, and to reveal proprietary and confidential information could result in disciplinary action up to and including termination. Needless to say, compromising company secrets is 'frowned-upon' by management for obvious reasons. :)
gijoecam 01/20/15 10:03am Tow Vehicles
RE: North American Truck of the Year

Being an engineer, I applaud innovation but I'm also very critical in that the essence of good engineering is to design by/to function. I'm not convinced Ford had that in mind for a working truck, but to be fair the actual percentage of truck buys who buy trucks to have something in the bed a handful of times a year has risen exponentially... Don't need much truck to haul groceries and hockey equipment. Repairs to that aluminum body are going to be expensive every way around. The insurance companies are not keen on them - I know this to be fact. Will be interesting to see how it ultimately proves out. Nothing innovative at all ,Aluminum has been around in automotive bodies forever in whole or parts. Insurance companies could care less they will charge what ever extra it will cost to repair and so far it seems to be between $100 and $200 a year,each individual will make their own decision. To me the never rust is a major plus,and yes I know al oxidizes. Nothing innovative, huh? You have no clue... In terms of using aluminum in a vehicle? Ok, I'll give you that one. But using all aluminum bodies on three quarters of a million vehicles a year? Nobody does that (yet). Just the manufacturing and assembly of the body alone took an 8 billion dollar investment in infrastructure, equipment, and new technology. The entire manufacturing process of the aluminum body is an utterly amazing feat, and to be able to do it on the scale Ford is required significant investment from the raw materials suppliers too... 5 years ago, nobody could have done it because nobody could pedicure the amount of aluminum needed to make that many vehicles. Ford essentially owns all the output currently available from the aluminum industry to sort the f150 and super duty for the foreseeable future. It'll be interested to see the commodities cost for GM if they jump on the aluminum bandwagon too.
gijoecam 01/15/15 04:27am Tow Vehicles
RE: For the Mathematicians:

Now that I know how to doi it vertically, how can it be done horizontally? For example, if I want to torque my hitch ball. I suppose I could flip my shank 90 degrees and torque it vertically using the various methods suggested previously, but what if this could not be done? How could I do it? Bruce Obviously flipping the shank 90 degrees is the easiest way to let gravity do the work for you. There are any number of Rube Goldberg-esque methods one could employ to turn the applied force horizontally, but I suggest the easiest.
gijoecam 12/26/14 06:57am General RVing Issues
RE: Tiny Homes

We saw the same episode and wondered exactly the same thing. Ok, so maybe they wouldn't have gotten the rooftop terrace, but all her other wants and needs could have been met for the same money in any of a dozen RVs. Oh, and it would have had heat, AC, and no composting toilet. Ok, so it wouldn't have had the reclaimed wood on the walls and ceiling, or the tile floor and fancy sink (which I've seen at Lowe's). And yes, it would have looked like a camper rather than a house... but in my opinion, it would have been significantly more functional...
gijoecam 12/25/14 06:35am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: For the Mathematicians:

Wow, holy reading comprehension failure here... The OP asked about using a 24" BREAKER BAR in lieu of the torque wrench. The torque wrench won't work; we've already established that. Its design and function don't have anything to do with the question. At a distance of 2 feet, 300 ft*lbs of torque requires 150 lbs of force. It really is that simple.As I said, how you going to measure the 150lbs of force? Perhaps his spouse or child weighs approximately 150 lbs? Perhaps he does? Maybe he has a few 50lb bags of something laying around? Why does it matter? He asked the question. My assumption is that he can figure out how to weigh the 150lbs he needs.
gijoecam 12/24/14 09:12am General RVing Issues
RE: Diamond Plate Tool Box

Gotcha... That was going to be my next question: How you planned to access it with a soft cover in-place. If it was mounted at the rear of the bed, a folding soft cover like an Extang Trifecta would work well, but up at the cab, getting the cover on and off could prove to be a challenge as the front mounting clips would be along-side the box... I'm not sure if a box that reaches the edges of the bed would work in that case...
gijoecam 12/23/14 10:03am Tow Vehicles
RE: Tiny Homes

I've seen a few episodes of those shows... The ones I've seen have been way expensive, and while they look nice, they look like functional disasters on wheels! I can't imagine constantly subjecting them to 60+mph winds and the rigors of road life without constantly losing roof panels and/or shingles. I even commented to my wife one time that the couple on one particular episode who had a compact car and a $30,000 budget could afford our truck and camper combo (30-foot Jayco with a V-10 crew-cab Super Duty) for the same price, and would not have to worry about what to do with the human waste or how they were going to heat it comfortably!
gijoecam 12/23/14 08:45am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: How Do You Handle Litter Odor?

We use(d) Arm & Hammer with our fur-babies for the last 7 years. But the best solution for us was when we switched over to the Litter Robot automated litterbox. No more scooping, thorough cleanings three times a year, and emptied it only on Mondays and Thursdays for years! Seriously, the best money I ever spent on those cats!!
gijoecam 12/23/14 08:36am RV Pet Stop
RE: For the Mathematicians:

Wow, holy reading comprehension failure here... The OP asked about using a 24" BREAKER BAR in lieu of the torque wrench. The torque wrench won't work; we've already established that. Its design and function don't have anything to do with the question. At a distance of 2 feet, 300 ft*lbs of torque requires 150 lbs of force. It really is that simple.
gijoecam 12/23/14 08:31am General RVing Issues
RE: Nitto Blowout

That's strange because I've had the exact opposite experience with those same two tires. THe M/S's were great on dry pavement. On anything else, they were almost undriveable. In the winter, the tread pattern loaded up with snow and did not clear well. The AT2s, on the other hand, have never left me stuck in 80,000 miles on the Explorer, and the last 20k in my F150. (I even pulled out a stuck tow truck with them last winter!) Actually not strange at all. Look at the weight of vehicle you are running the tires on. An Explorer and an F-150. The AT 2's come factory on a lot of the newer F 250/350, 2500/3500 series trucks and it seems they are NOT lasting a long time, nor giving good traction as they wear down. Those trucks are extremely heavy, a lot of diesel motors, compared to the two vehicles you have used the tires on. That's why so many on-line reviews of tires are worthless. Subject A has a heavy F350 type truck, but all the reviews they find are from folks driving much lighter weight vehicles, giving glowing reviews of such and such a tire. So Subject A buys them and finds out they are horrible for such a heavy vehicle as they own. Understood... But also not the same tires either... C-rated on both of my vehicles versus the E-rated tires on the SD's. Given my experience with them, I am planning to put them on the Super Duty when funds allow as I only put 3-4k a year on her.
gijoecam 12/23/14 08:25am Tow Vehicles
RE: Diamond Plate Tool Box

I have to ask: Why? Are you looking to be able to hide it with a tonneau cover? If so, where would you mount it: Front of bed or rear of bed?
gijoecam 12/23/14 08:21am Tow Vehicles
RE: Difference between Hydo and Aqua?

In Canada they call the electricity hydro, because it is generated by water in a HYDROELECTRIC turbine and generator normally situated at the base of a water dam, some times the generating facility will be at the base of a valley and the water source above the valley, water being delivered by large pipes. navegator I always assumed that was the reason, though I see 60 miles-worth of wind turbines here in Southern Ontario from Windsor out towards Niagara Falls... I wonder what percentage of Canada's electricity actually comes from hydroelectric sources? Off-topic... Sorry...
gijoecam 12/22/14 11:20am General RVing Issues
RE: How best to fix leaky Galvanized pipes in my stick house

I, too, would go with PEX if copper was not an option (materials are costly, labor is high, but I personally like the security better than PEX... no personal experience outside my travel trailer with PEX though) I do like the ability to run it with no joints from the manifold to the fixture. That would certainly eliminate any potential leak points for sure! My next house will likely have PEX.
gijoecam 12/22/14 11:17am Around the Campfire
RE: This came as a surprise

Very few municipalities have laws that outright ban personal trailers or RVs from parking in the street just for this specific reason. There are people who own them and need to do what some posted (i.e. park it, then go get supplies to load up) and in my experience, most of them make some provision for this. (Usually for a limited number of hours). In the OP's case, I'd like to know what, specifically, the law he was cited for breaking states. Even though it's only $42, if I was in the right, I'd sure as heck fight it!!
gijoecam 12/22/14 11:07am Travel Trailers
RE: Change weight by adding washer to WD hitch?

Only if your hitch is configured like the one in the sketch. There are no less than three different arrangements of couplers on the frame rails, each of which will result in a different angle of the bars with respect to the frame or ground. For example, looking at Page 2 of the Reese Trunnion Bar Installation manual you quoted above, step 2 illustrates the different height off the ground where the trunnion bars should start for a rough set-up based on the coupler's mounting to the frame. If you pull it up to 5 links under tension, there's no telling where exactly it will end up as that is a function of the coupler's mounting point and, in the case of the coupler mounted to the bottom of the rails, the frame rail height. I still fail to understand the geometry of a curved bar being parallel to anything. And again, IF the bars end up parallel to anything, it's nothing more than a happy coincidence. It is neither a design intent nor does it affect the function of the hitch assembly in any way.
gijoecam 12/22/14 10:59am Towing
RE: Difference between Hydo and Aqua?

Sounds like the question has already been answered, but when I read the OP's question, what came to mind was being in Canada where they often call the electricity 'Hydro' (no clue why that is?!)... So in my head, I took it to mean Water (Aqua) and Electricity (Hydro)...
gijoecam 12/22/14 10:49am General RVing Issues
RE: Issues Getting the Camper Level

Having a low profile trailer, we have run into this issue several times. What seems like a 'slight' grade to a conventional trailer can be a 'sliding off the bed' grade for us. I've had the spare tire (mounted under the tongue) 1/4" off the ground, and I've also had the tail of the trailer almost dragging as well. Managed to get it level both times, but it was close!! To the OP, I would have either dug some clearance for the coupler, or driven the trailer wheels up onto some more boards.
gijoecam 12/22/14 10:45am General RVing Issues
RE: Nitto Blowout

I couldn't get rid of my Michelin LTX A/T2 tires fast enough! Absolutely no traction in snow, not much better on a wet road and forget about wet grass. The don't wear near as well as the LTX M/S tires that have enjoyed a great reputation for the last 20 years. If you want to hear a bad word on the Michelins, just visit a Ford truck forum and listen to the guys talk about the A/T2 tires that came on their trucks from the factory. That's strange because I've had the exact opposite experience with those same two tires. THe M/S's were great on dry pavement. On anything else, they were almost undriveable. In the winter, the tread pattern loaded up with snow and did not clear well. The AT2s, on the other hand, have never left me stuck in 80,000 miles on the Explorer, and the last 20k in my F150. (I even pulled out a stuck tow truck with them last winter!)
gijoecam 12/22/14 10:20am Tow Vehicles
RE: Lippert StrapTek WD setup

I understand the theory behind using the straps as a form of sway control, but in reality, I don't see it working all that well. All it does is shorten the length of the connection between the bar and the frame, which increases the rate at which the connection angle changes front-to-back when turning. In theory, if the trailer moves off-center, the downward force of the spring bars causes a righting moment on the hitch head (fore and aft). In reality, I can't imagine that force being anywhere near the forces generated by the spring bars contacting the friction pads, but I've been wrong before. However, before I buy into the system, I'd want to see some analytical testing of the two side-by-side. Telling me your system is as good as or better than a proven setup that's been around for decades without some sort of data to back it up doesn't fly very far with me...
gijoecam 12/22/14 10:05am Towing
RE: Change weight by adding washer to WD hitch?

Finally had a chance to review your links from a computer... I don't know what manuals you looked through but the Standard Round Bar (generic) installation manual has a picture at the bottom of p.5 that shows the minimum and states: Illustration 7, shows the correct and incorrect hook-up position of the spring bars. To allow movement when turning, there should be at least 5 links between the lift bracket and the spring bar. The number of links should be the same on both bars. Adjust head tilt to accomplish correct chain length.. Please indicate where in that manual it indicates that they should be parallel? Your quote specifies the number of links, but neither the text nor the sketches indicate anything to do with parallelism of the bars to anything. Note what Eaz-Lift states on p.3 and gives illustrations. Again, nowhere does it state that the bars should be parallel to the frame under load.. It does state, Spring bar should be parallel with trailer frame, or a slight angle up or down You can't stop reading in the middle of the sentence. In addition, the Drawtite Trunnion bar installation manual states on P.4: There must be at least 5 links between the lift unit and the spring bar. This is necessary for proper operation of the spring bars during turns. If there are less than 5 links, the angle of the head assembly must be increased. Again, no mention of parallelism, only number of tensioned links to allow for bar movement while turning. The Reese Trunnion Bar installation manual states on P.3: Raise trailer tongue and rear of car with jack. Lower yoke of snap up bracket until it is parallel with the ground, and slip the closest link over the hook (If there are less than 5 links between hook and u-bolt PLACE CLOSEST LINK ON HOOK, adjust ballmount angle rearward, and repeat procedure). Again, no mention of parallelism to the frame. And finally, the Reese Round Bar installation manual states on p.3: Lower yoke of snap up bracket until it is parallel with the ground, and slip the closest link over the hook (If there are less than 4 links between hook and u-bolt adjust ballmount angle rearward, and repeat procedure - see Fig. 3 & 4 below). Please read your quote more carefully: Lower the yoke of the snap-up bracket until it (they are referring to the yoke of the snap-up bracket, not the spring bar) Also, note the illustration directly below that line where it shows the bracket in the parallel position, and the spring angled down away from the frame rail as 'right'. Lastly, I fully understand that the trunnion style bars move just like the round ones do and the only reason I mentioned the trunnion style bars was to clear up the common misconception that ALL WD bars should be parallel to the frame. Hope this clears it up a bit. Barney And this is where I take issue with your statement: NONE of the spring bars for ANY hitch setup I've seen are *supposed* to be parallel to anything. If they turn out to be (more or less) parallel to the trailer frame, ground, or any other arbitrary surface, then it's just a happy coincidence and nothing more. As long as there are 5 links or more under tension, and the tongue weight is being properly redistributed, who gives a flying fig whether or not the bars are parallel to anything? Parallelism does not, in any way, shape, or form, affect their function. Also, lets just say, for the sake of discussion, that your statement is correct. Lets say that you have your trailer set up such that the spring bars are more or less parallel to the frame rails. Then you go camping for a week, and your front-kitchen camper now has an empty fresh water tank up front, full holding tanks behind the axle, and a now-empty cooler that once contained several hundred pounds of 'brown-pops.' With the lighter tongue weight, you would agree that it may be necessary to drop on link on the chains so as to reduce the weight distribution effect on the tow vehicle, correct? Doing so would result in spring bars that are now pointed (more or less) downwards... Should the head angle then be readjusted so as to make the bars parallel again? I don't see that sort of recommendation from any of the manufacturers anywhere... Any setting with 5-links or more under tension is OK as best I can tell from the links you listed.
gijoecam 12/22/14 09:57am Towing
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