Found a small piece of web/nest in the burner tube... Didn't fix the problem... pulled the orifice out and discovered it had the tiniest of bits in it. Blew it out and it's back to normal!
I got some good pics I'll post when I can get too my computer this afternoon...
The video didn't capture it well, but the orange is from the thermocouple and ignitor tips glowing orange. The flame itself was actually blue, but sounded weak and unsteady. A couple of times, when it lit, the flame backed up into the burner tube and made the jet-roaring noise that happens when the propane on my bbq is running out.
Eta: also, I didn't touch anything since putting it away in the fall... What could cause it to be getting more fuel or not enough air? I'll pop the tube off and see if there are any spider webs down it, but I would think those would obstruct the gas flow too, not just the air...
First trip of the season this weekend. It was kind of last minute, so I only had three days to de-winterize, clean, and prep. When we fired up the water heater, this was what it started doing.
It runs for a few minutes like that, then quits. I thought it was a supply issue, but lighting the three burners and firing up the furnace has no effect on it whatsoever, and the tank is more than half full. Temps are in the upper 70s during the day, low 60s at night, so I don't think it's a pressure issue. I did find a cracked supply hose on one side of the switching regulator, but changing tanks made no difference whatsoever.
What could be causing it to puff like that? Orifice clog? Valve issue? I'm at a loss... I'll pull the burner tube out after breakfast, and can use the electric element in the mean time, but would appreciate some suggestions.
I ordered one of those reversible PWM controllers on ebay as well. I thought it would be perfect. I tested it on the bench with my original single-speed Vortex fan and immediately found two shortcomings:
1. it produced an objectionable whine at every fan speed.
2. when in the "off" position, it still drew several milliamps of current. To actually turn it off and prevent battery drain, I would have to add a second switch.
I'm sad to report the same results. I wired it up in the campground yesterday and on anything short of full power, it sings like a bad bearing! Utterly unbearable... Maybe that explains why heng uses resistors rather than a pwm unit?
Suggestions on a quiet one? I can handle wiring the reversing switch I guess.
I am guessing a lot of you land loving RVers in here have never been on a boat ramp before. I would encourage some that say this is a bad feature to get a lawn chair and go sit for a day at a busy boat ramp.
Know what's funny? I've done exactly that at the ramp in the video! I used to live about a mile away from Elizabeth Park, and on Sunday afternoons, I'd ride over there with a six pack cooler and a sandwich, and watch the antics. Man, I could tell you some stories!
Found a video also...
(Footage is from Elizabeth Park in Trenton, MI and the Ford Yacht Club in Grosse Ile, MI... I grew up two doors away from FYC and regularly launched out of Elizabeth Park for years!)Thanks for the footage - I'm a Grosse Ile native and Elizabeth park was a great hangout spot. We launched a cruusier out of there as well - lots of time on Lake Erie catching perch and Walleye
Small world! (And the internet has made it even smaller!!)
I ran the VIN... It does, in fact, have the EB. It was registered to Brantal Contracting LTD and was serviced at Orchard Ford Sales (wherever that is...). 7-lug wheels make it a HD payload package for sure.
Also worth noting is that the original owner purchased a 48 month/100,000 mile Ford Extended Service Plan for it, and that should be transferrable to the next owner for a nominal fee. That's the NEW-CAR ESP which is slightly better than the USED car ESP they sell... (I wouldn't expect the Honda dealership to tell youthis though...)
But something is fishy... It had service work done at 27,120 and 37,123 miles... The listing shows the mileage as 23,xxx... Could be a type-o in the service history, but two of 'em? Not so sure...
Not saying an absolute, but depends on which ones
I'm a technologist and some of the stuff we dealt with while working in the laboratories
are just coming into product offerings now...a couple decades later...
Not absolute...meaning that if one is bad...they are all bad
Or meaning that if one is good...they are all good
Anyone who thinks IP is so good...have they gone to the RFID Chip in their neck/arm/etc ?
Even Mexico City staff has them in their arms. Mandatory...else fired. The
only way to get into their buildings etc...
That is around the corner for our vehicles...maybe...no more keyless
fobs...but just your arm/hand/neck/etc...no more lost keys, or fobs...
How wonderful that would be...right?
It's really wonderful... Right up until it doesn't work, then it's the biggest POS ever invented! I'm not a fan myself...
This has GOT to be the most ridiculous 'feature' I've seen on any vehicle. Ever. There are no words to express my disdain for this 'feature.'..It's getting old in here.
Old? I'm not even 40 (yet)!!
I'm not angry over the feature, it's more of a 'shake my head in disgust' sort of reaction... Yet another dumbing-down of the driving skills for life toolbox. (and for the record, I prefer a manual transmission, but sadly it's not been available in a vehicle that suits my needs in more then 20 years...) Like I said in another forum, it's cool to see existing technology that's already in the trucks being used for new and innovative (industry-first?) features. They're adding a few short wires, a switch in a spot that was already a blank-off panel, and some new programming bits and bytes. The electronic brake control, electric power steering assist, and cameras were already there.
In terms of rearward visibility, I can see that being an issue with some short-tongue trailers and fifth wheels... But there's no reason you couldn't use the mirrors at the same time...
I think that, to make it more useful, a remote control option would be a better choice... Link it to a smart phone with a secure wifi link and a dead-man switch, and allow me to step outside of the vehicle and maneuver it like a life-size RC rig, and I'd be ALL OVER THAT!!!
Found a video also...
(Footage is from Elizabeth Park in Trenton, MI and the Ford Yacht Club in Grosse Ile, MI... I grew up two doors away from FYC and regularly launched out of Elizabeth Park for years!)
This has GOT to be the most ridiculous 'feature' I've seen on any vehicle. Ever. There are no words to express my disdain for this 'feature.'... If you can't figure out which way to turn the wheels, maybe you shouldn't be towing the trailer in the first place?
Ford Pro Trailer Backup Assist Feature
Now, is the technology that enables this cool? Yeah. The nerd in me marvels at it. Is it at all practical? As far as I'm concerned, it's utterly useless. I'm confident that I'd be able to do it faster and at least as accurately...
eBay, tons of them. I first tryed one that had a reversing already attached, but that one set up harmonics. If you get the really cheap one and a DPDT switch you should be good.
I had the same problem with harmonics on the integrated reversing. Swapped it out for a standalone PWM and a DPDT switch and it works like a charm.
Nuts... that's what I ordered... there were a couple slightly different designs... Hopefully the one I ordered won't be an issue...
Understood. The pwm circuit board I ordered includes a reversing switch and a pot, both of which are on short writes, so I can put the board near the air flow and the pot in the existing home for the power switch. (The original fan is feed from a switch on the vanity, so no need to maintain a power switch on the fan, and the reversing switch on the pwm also has a center-off position on it...)
I figured out the switch while I was in the shower this morning... I've also found a couple of PWM speed controllers on eBay that I think will work (one has the reversing switch built in).
I'm also going to pick up another switch and some small LEDs to use as night lights/reading lights. We always use a battery-powered puck-light as a night light for the kids, so this will be the next evolution of that (and I won't keep knocking it off the counter when I'm in there!)
ETA: My only concern is with the speed controller not being weather-proof.... We have a MaxxAir cover over the vent, but during a heavy storm there.s always the potential for some moisture to get in there. I'm not too concerned as the speed control will be at the end farthest from the opening, but it would still be nice if I could coat the unit in potting compound or something similar...
Resurrecting this... can you please list the part numbers you used for the pwm and switches? I can get a smoking deal on the original vortex fan from my local shop, but I can't, for the life of me, figure out how to use a dpdt switch to reverse the direction... (I need to sit down and draw it out)
A schematic would help too, if it's not too much trouble... Thanks!
I went with these:
Yes, they're strap-ons, but I have crome mirror bezels and the plastic hardware and stretchy straps didn't leave any marks on them at all. My only complaint was the 'moaning' noise they made at-speed (they were NOISY!) but in terms of function, they were excellent.
Any of the ones that stick to the mirror glass itself will be pulling on the little plastic gears inside the mirror that drive the mechanism. They are not engineered to take those sorts of loads and will quickly fail. I would not recommend those solely for that reason.
Again, please explain how any part of the system knows whether it's level or parallel to any other thing. The bars are bent. It's geometrically impossible for them to be parallel to a straight frame rail.
Regarding your second point, look at the bar on BOTH sides of the cam, and both sides of the tongue. When making a turn, one cam moves forward, the other moves rearward. Yes, you are correct that the cam that moves to the rear is ramping up less of an incline. However, on the other side of the tongue, the bar is moving forward up a much steeper slope. Admittedly I haven't crunched the numbers, but I'd wager that the difference in correcting force between bars whose 'hook' on the contact point is more or less level compared to the force from bars with the angle seen in the OP's photo is pretty minimal.
I recall having a similar discussion here a couple months back... Someone found ONE manual somewhere which made a vague reference to the bars being parallel to the frame. (I think it was a round-bar from Blue-Ox, maybe?) None of the rest did, if my memory serves....