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 > Your search for posts made by 'gijoecam' found 168 matches.

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RE: Gas Below $2

I read a good article a few years ago about that exact phenomenon. They trended the price of crude with the price of regular unleaded. As the price of crude went up, so did the price of gas. However, when the price of crude droipped, it took, on average, three months for the gas prices to correct back to the 'normal' levels that paralleled the crude prices before the increase.
gijoecam 08/25/15 12:40pm Tow Vehicles
RE: tuner for sub or not

The biggest advantage a tuner will provide is better shifting. In my opinion, that alone is worth the investment. I've had one on my 2000 f150 almost since it was new, and it makes a world of difference. Power wise, I'm never going to feel the extra 15hp they claim it makes, but it never hesitated to downshift, and firms up those shifts noticeably.
gijoecam 08/24/15 08:18pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Gas Below $2

Got gas today here in southeast Michigan for $3.69/gallon (for premium... Regular was 2.89 on the same pump). Gas shot up more than a dollar a gallon in many places here last week after there was news about a regional refinery that had to shut down for repairs. It has been trickling back down since everyone realized the stations were full of it and the supply would not be significantly affected, but it's still not toeing the 2 dollar mark yet...
gijoecam 08/21/15 03:24pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 1999 F150 towing 6500# 26' travel trailer question

I have almost the identical combination to you. I used my 2000 F150 5.4 4x4 to tow our new (to us) Jayco Featherlight 29y (30-ft, 6800lb loaded) the first summer we had it. The truck had about 85k on it then, and wasn't my daily driver at that time (it is now). On paper, all was good. I dialed in the weights with the WDH, and we set out on our summer of camping. Did it get us there? Yes. Was it a pleasant experience? No. Would I do it again? If I had to, and only then, not happily. We have a Reese WDH with a friction sway control. Even with the sway control locked-down tight, I still got pushed around a fair amount. I never had any times where I felt out of control, and was white-knuckled a bit in heavy semi traffic on the freeway, but it was never a relaxing trip. The next summer, we upgraded the tow vehicle to a 2010 V-10 Super Duty. Had I known how much better it would tow the trailer, I wouldn't have suffered through the first summer with the F150. The Super Duty is downright pleasant to drive pulling the trailer. Same trailer, same hitch (I think I tweaked the head angle one notch to account for the longer wheelbase of the truck), same sway control; night-and-day better towing experience. The drive is downright relaxing now. No concerns about insufficient brakes, I don't get blown around by passing trucks, and the rig is downright planted. I do, on occasion, get pushed around a bit in heavy crosswinds, but we're talking 30-40mph gusts that would blow the truck about unloaded too. It'll drag that trailer all over town all day long and never break a sweat. In terms of power, the F150 had a tough time holding overdrive at 55 or 60 on the flat lands. Any mild hill caused it to drop out of OD, so on the west side of Michigan, I spent a lot of time screaming in 3rd gear. The V-10, by comparison, still needs to drop a gear or two from time to time, but the tow/haul mode makes short work of it, but the added ponies help it hold the higher gears a lot better. Mileage while towing is about the same (9-10), but the available power is night-and-day by comparison. Good luck!
gijoecam 08/20/15 01:08pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Anyone have or used one of these? automated safety hitch

If you need to pull a 5th wheel and you don't have a pickup maybe. I saw a big DP pulling a 5th wheel rubble decker car trailer with one, I guess that would be the only way to do it. I've also seen this several times. Lots of racers use them at the drag strip around here. (OK, a handful, but they're not a rare sight) You can get a whole 'nother car in a triple-axle 5er stacker compared to a tag trailer.
gijoecam 08/20/15 12:42pm Tow Vehicles
RE: F-150 fan clutch issue: second act

After reading through your first post, my though was, right from the start, that the fan is a symptom of something being hot, not a failed part. I think we can all agree at this point that it was/is working just like it's being told to by the ECU. On this front, checking the cooler is essential. It's possible that the cooler isn't getting fluid to cool (the bad bypass valve theory, and they do, on occasion, fail), the oil-to-water heat exchanger could be plugged/failing to transfer the heat, or the secondary oil-to-air heat exchanger (if so-equipped) could be experiencing the same issues. Without logging their data and being able to compare it to a similar vehicle, they're relying solely on what the ECU can tell them, and all it's telling them is that the fluid is hot; not WHY the fluid is hot. Troubleshooting the system components should be fairly simple. It can be done remotely with thermocouples, but it's difficult to do and requires a ton of work. Shooting it with an IR thermometer generally provides sufficient information for troubleshooting purposes. My bet is either a bad bypass valve, or a clogged radiator. I've seen certain kinds of coolant gel in the passages of the radiator, but that was generally only on the diesels, not the gas engines. (Caused by a strange chemical reaction between the coolant and the materials in the system) Good luck, and keep us posted. The suspense is killing me!!
gijoecam 08/20/15 12:39pm Tow Vehicles
RE: A testament to the robustness of the Ford V10 platform

On a Ford Explorer forum I used to frequent, someone several years back asked a question inquiring what could be dripping from his moonroof? He had recently purchased the vehicle used, and something oily was dripping from around the moonroof area, near the overhead console. We were all at a loss since, aside from a small dribble of water that leaks past the seal and out the drains, there's nothing there that could leak, let alone an 'oily' substance, in any way, shape, or form. A couple weeks later, he posted some pictures. He dropped the overhead console, and inside it, he found about 8 pounds of a mix of dog food, cat food, and paintballs. Yes, paintballs... As in the kind you put in a paintball gun and shoot people with. Apparently some little chipmunk had been raiding the dog food, cat food, and his stash of paintballs, and carrying them up the suspension, through some hole in the body, up the A-pillar and into the space above the headliner and overhead console. The paintballs, being bio-degradeable, had essentially melted in the humidity from the air, and it's the 'paint' that was dripping out, looking oily because of the pet food. Crazy!!
gijoecam 08/20/15 12:12pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Device (other than airbags) to help rear suspension

Looking at the pic, I strongly suspect you are simply smacking the overload spring over bumps. They are really stiff, so you'll feel it contact. I really like the TorkLift stable-laods, as they keep the overloads engaged, eliminating the "whack" while also giving you more stability form the stiffer spring rate. This is my guess as well. It's a simple thing to check for: Put a piece of masking tape on the bump-stops and on the overload springs under their perches. Take the rig for a drive, and see what's rubbing. That'll tell you for sure what's making contact and when.
gijoecam 08/20/15 11:59am Towing
RE: Safety chain placement

Second, I have yet to see a configuration that would allow the breakaway cable to be pulled when the coupler separates from the ball but the chains are still attached. It would require some very specific-length cables and attachment points such that the cable is pulled if the ball drops more than a couple of inches, and that assembly would still need to be able to articulate as the rig makes turns and traverses hills and valleys. That setup only exist in theory as best I can tell... You are correct that your cable lengths need to be closely set and I have mine where when the safety chains are fully extended the breakaway switch is pulled, but the 7 pin cable hopefully will still be connected. I have tested my configuration by attaching all the cables/chains with the tongue off the ball and at the same height as it would be normally and then slowly pulling the TV forward till the chains are taught. Here is a picture of what my "ACTUAL CABLES/CHAINS " looks like and this is not a theory, but real and I'm sorry if you still don't believe it's possible, but I know along with a lot of other folks in past posts say it is ;): http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u639/12491/E-350%20Van/16%20Dec%202007%20Trailer%20CIMG0001_small_zpse4ukfkg6.jpg width=600 Larry I posted before reading through JBarca's post linked earlier in this thread... I stand corrected as I now see that it *is* possible to set up the arrangement such that it'll pull the safety cable before detatching. (I've been wrong before... It happens...) ;) There is, of course, the eternal debate as to whether or not this is the preferred sequence. On my particular vehicle, I would have a difficult time making it happen as there is no other attachment point for the safety cable anyways. Unlike JBarca's bumper, I don't have a tow-capable bumper with the auxiliary safety chain connections on it. In fact, on my particular truck, the nearest thing to an attachment point that's NOT a safety chain connection on the receiver is another three feet farther up the frame, adding to the challenge.
gijoecam 06/01/15 11:16am Towing
RE: 5.4 is a screamer!!!

NO you don't need to go to 4.30 gears. a waste of money, and NO they won't give you better MPG. 2500 RPM is 2500 RPM no matter if you are in OD or 3rd gear. Best thing. Lock out OD. That little button on the end of the shifter. Press it, and you will see a little icon on the dash that will tell you OD is turned off. It will then hold 3rd gear longer, because it can then lock the torque converter. With the OD on, and running in 3rd. the torque convertor is not locked up, and can cause the trany to heat up and the engine actually runs at a higher RPM that 3rd gear. Locking out OD will stop that. The TC will lock in 3rd gear if the conditions merit it whether or not OD is locked-out. Locking out OD stops it from dropping into 4th and lugging and/or constantly shifting in and out. If it'll hold OD on the flat-lands without hunting between 3rd and 4th, let it. It's not going to hurt anything. If it won't, lock out OD and let it do its thing. I agree that it's got to rev to make the power you need to move the shoebox through the air. Personally, I though tthe 5.4 was a dog in my 2000 F150, let alone in the super duty (another 1500 lbs of truck) pulling a bigger trailer... It's not going to set any land speed records, but it'll get you there. Getting back to the original question, I don't think you're going to see any significant mileage gains by re-gearing, and if they do, they'll be miniscule, if they can be measured at all. It takes a certain amount of energy to do the work of dragging the rig over any given hill, and there's no guarantees that the engine running a couple-hundred RPM higher will gain you any efficiency.
gijoecam 06/01/15 10:56am Tow Vehicles
RE: 2013 F350 getting new turbo today

That looks like a blow-off sticking or being slow to respond to me... But the graph certainly shows the surging pretty clearly! I guess it could also be the turbo itself not spinning consistently too. Hopefully this fixes it! I haven't heard of too many of the new diesels having issues, but I'm glad you're getting it sorted out!
gijoecam 06/01/15 10:47am Tow Vehicles
RE: Safety chain placement

The way I read the DOT requirements for the breakaway cable, it specs the switch must be activated to apply the trailers brakes after the trailer has separated from the tow vehicle. It does not specify "when" in this chain of events. Where the safety chains are presumably keeping the rig together ? Or after a total breakaway ? Strictly speaking, it "sounds" to me like the reg is saying "after the hitch connection has failed, and also after the safety chain connection has failed". Right, wrong or otherwise, I have my breakaway cable connected in a way that the pin would only be pulled in the event the safety chains failed, and the trailer is totally disconnected from the truck. Personally, I would not want the trailer brakes locked and sliding, especially if it happened to be wet pavement, while the trailer is still hanging on by the chains. YMMV....and your connections may vary as well.... I agree with you on this for two reasons: First, it's the only thing that makes sense. Locking the trailer brakes while the trailer is still attached to the tow vehicle by the safety chanins isn't a good idea. Second, I have yet to see a configuration that would allow the breakaway cable to be pulled when the coupler separates from the ball but the chains are still attached. It would require some very specific-length cables and attachment points such that the cable is pulled if the ball drops more than a couple of inches, and that assembly would still need to be able to articulate as the rig makes turns and traverses hills and valleys. That setup only exist in theory as best I can tell...
gijoecam 06/01/15 09:22am Towing
RE: Evasive Maneuvers when towing

When it comes t other drivers, I think everyone else (the OP included) has it covered. When it comes to wildlife, I have a 'One Meal Policy:' If I can eat the critter/object/thing in the road in one meal, I don't even think about taking evasive actions. On larger animals, like dogs, deer, etc. my policy is to brake as much/hard as is practical for the conditions, and hit it if necessary. I know it'll do some damage, but likely not as much as parking the rig in the ditch will. For the largest of the critters (bear, moose, elk, elephants), the law of tonnage wins-out. I'll do what I can to avoid them.
gijoecam 06/01/15 09:10am Towing
RE: Vortex II Vent Fan Reliability Improvement

Double-tap...
gijoecam 05/27/15 05:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Vortex II Vent Fan Reliability Improvement

Thanks. For $10, I ordered two because I can always find another project for one of these!
gijoecam 05/27/15 05:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Water Heater Acting Strange

Found a small piece of web/nest in the burner tube... Didn't fix the problem... pulled the orifice out and discovered it had the tiniest of bits in it. Blew it out and it's back to normal! I got some good pics I'll post when I can get too my computer this afternoon...
gijoecam 05/25/15 08:05am Tech Issues
RE: Water Heater Acting Strange

The video didn't capture it well, but the orange is from the thermocouple and ignitor tips glowing orange. The flame itself was actually blue, but sounded weak and unsteady. A couple of times, when it lit, the flame backed up into the burner tube and made the jet-roaring noise that happens when the propane on my bbq is running out. Eta: also, I didn't touch anything since putting it away in the fall... What could cause it to be getting more fuel or not enough air? I'll pop the tube off and see if there are any spider webs down it, but I would think those would obstruct the gas flow too, not just the air...
gijoecam 05/25/15 04:56am Tech Issues
Water Heater Acting Strange

Video Hey gang, First trip of the season this weekend. It was kind of last minute, so I only had three days to de-winterize, clean, and prep. When we fired up the water heater, this was what it started doing. It runs for a few minutes like that, then quits. I thought it was a supply issue, but lighting the three burners and firing up the furnace has no effect on it whatsoever, and the tank is more than half full. Temps are in the upper 70s during the day, low 60s at night, so I don't think it's a pressure issue. I did find a cracked supply hose on one side of the switching regulator, but changing tanks made no difference whatsoever. What could be causing it to puff like that? Orifice clog? Valve issue? I'm at a loss... I'll pull the burner tube out after breakfast, and can use the electric element in the mean time, but would appreciate some suggestions. Thanks!
gijoecam 05/25/15 04:02am Tech Issues
RE: Vortex II Vent Fan Reliability Improvement

I ordered one of those reversible PWM controllers on ebay as well. I thought it would be perfect. I tested it on the bench with my original single-speed Vortex fan and immediately found two shortcomings: 1. it produced an objectionable whine at every fan speed. 2. when in the "off" position, it still drew several milliamps of current. To actually turn it off and prevent battery drain, I would have to add a second switch. I'm sad to report the same results. I wired it up in the campground yesterday and on anything short of full power, it sings like a bad bearing! Utterly unbearable... Maybe that explains why heng uses resistors rather than a pwm unit? Suggestions on a quiet one? I can handle wiring the reversing switch I guess.
gijoecam 05/24/15 12:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Now I've seen it all...

I am guessing a lot of you land loving RVers in here have never been on a boat ramp before. I would encourage some that say this is a bad feature to get a lawn chair and go sit for a day at a busy boat ramp. Know what's funny? I've done exactly that at the ramp in the video! I used to live about a mile away from Elizabeth Park, and on Sunday afternoons, I'd ride over there with a six pack cooler and a sandwich, and watch the antics. Man, I could tell you some stories!
gijoecam 05/22/15 01:04pm Tow Vehicles
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