A buddy at work suggested something I hadn't thought of: replace the light with one from a camper. It would have a switch built on which I could replace with an spdt on-on switch, feeding one from the some circuit and one from a hot circuit protected by the battery saver relay. A bit more complex than originally planned, but should work well.
Should be a power wire in the trailer wiring bundle
I considered using the switched charge life at the trailer connector as a last resort, but that would also require a switch the light itself does not have one.
As Chris previously mentioned, the Intellitec Monoplexer is the easy way to accomplish what you want to do.
Good. Have been trying to figure out how to use the shower without running to kitchen and back after I've opened the faucet. Pump switch is in the kitchen and there is no pressure switch in my pump. The pump manual says not to run it against closed faucet. Don't want to add a pressure switch either - it's scary when it suddenly comes on like a thunder.
What pump do you have? I haven't seen an RV water pump that didn't utilize a built-in pressure switch to regulate the on/off cycling of the pump.
Ditto. You could probably get them out, and might be able to disassemble them to the point of being able to get the washer out, and if you're really lucky, find a replacement washer that will work...
I'd replace 'em though... It's really not worth the effort.
That's certainly the circuit I want to use, but I'm not sure where a good place to catch it and run the wires might be... Unfortunately the schematics don't show anything blunt-cut for that purpose. :(
I have a 2010 SuperDuty (Crew cab, short bed) I recently bought a used cap for. There are two pairs of wires at the rear corner, one for the third brake light and one for the interior dome light. There is a brake light signal wire in the wiring harness at the bumper, so that's easy, but can anyone tell me where the easiest/best place would be to catch power for the interior dome light circuit? I'm not seeing anything obvious in the schematics for the truck.
Indeed, those are the two concerns. Even with weight distribution, one must still ensure that the tongue weight does not exceed the receiver's capability. The rule of thumb is just that: a generalization, but a good reference point. Outside the 10-15% TW range, things can often make for an unpleasant towing experience. There are always exceptions, but it is a pretty decent reference value that can be used.
But as was mentioned, ultimately, the actual axle weights are what matters.
I do like the new Ford transmissions which had a true gear selection, which will lock top gear and let the speed drop a few MPH on hills, instead of downshifting hold the exact set speed no matter what.
Yes, but when you go from auto to manually setting the gear, doesn't it start pumping more fuel trying to maintain speed? That's what my car with the manual tranny does anyway, and I doubt that it's more fuel efficient. Being able to set a relatively constant throttle would be better I think.
It has to do with the efficiency of the Persian. For a particular load at a particular speed, it takes a certain amount of power to do that work. The question is: at what gear and, therefore rpm will will the engine produce that power most efficiently? Every combination of tire vehicle and trailer will have a slightly different answer that question. There are no generalizations that can be drawn across all makes, models, or powertrains. This thread will go on ad nauseam...
Been using it since I was in high school (20 years ago! Yikes, I feel old now!!) Huge fan. On the windshield of a new vehicle, it usually takes two coats a couple of days apart to get it on there thoroughly. Not sure why, but it's always been my experience that the first coat doesn't take well.
Since I started using the Rain-X washer fluids, it lasts even longer and seldom needs to be reapplied but maybe every second or third year for the windshield. (Usually twice a year if I use the cheap washer fluid) The side-glass and rear window will go several years as well.
There are no one or two specific parameters that can be summarized even further to determine what's 'best' or 'most efficient' for any one particular rig. Every rig is different and every rig will generate different results.
Now, if you isolate as many variables as possible and focus on one specific rig, the easiest thing to do is spend $15 or $20 for a bluetooth OBD-II scanner, plug it in, connect it to your smartphone, pay the $5 for the Torque app and look at the instantaneous fuel economy numbers. You will find that under certain loads and certain operating conditions, the engine will have a 'sweet spot' where fuel efficiency is maximized. This is a result of the particular combination of tow vehicle, wind resistance, wind direction, transmission gearing, final drive ratio, tire size, tire compound and rolling resistance, air temperature, fuel octane rating, fuel quality, humidity level, and several more I'm sure I missed. Some vehicles and rigs will run more efficiently at higher RPM/lower gear. Some will be more efficient at a lower RPM/higher gear.
FWIW, on my daily commute with my 2000 F150 5.4, I've found that on flat, level ground, I can eke-out about 15 if I set the cruise around 66. If I slip in behind a semi and draft, I can either up the economy to over 20 at that speed, or I can up my speed to almost 70 with the same fuel economy.
The old saying, 'your mileage may vary' certainly applies here.
The first one.
It could also be worded this way:
Tongue Weight = (Rear axle weight with trailer)-(rear axle weight without trailer)-(weight transferred from front to rear by the tongue weight)
That last term is (front axle weight without trailer)-(front axle weight with trailer)
I do NOT recommend using these...don't think they have enough strength
holding several tons of trailer going at highway speeds
I see nothing wrong with using them, provided they are rated for the weight. THe ones I have to use are rated for 10,000lbs each. I have the cast spring-clipped hooks you showed above, but the hook will not physically fit through the hole on the receiver without interfering with the pin for the receiver. (Too much stuff, not enough space)
I have a handy-dandy spreadsheet to plug & chug the numbers for me. (I can send it to you if you'd like). I had to tweak one number to make the two gross combined readings equal the same for the spreadsheet to work properly, so I removed 20lbs from the trailer axle weight in your second pass. (20 lbs is basically the tolerance of the scale)
That being said, I got the following values:
Actual Trailer Weights
Gross Axle Weight 7,140 lbs
Tongue Weight 1,240 lbs
Gross Trailer Weight 8,380 lbs
Tongue Weight (% of GTW) 14.80%
Trailer Effect on Tow Vehicle
Weight added to rear axle 1,740 lbs
Weight transferred from front axle 500 lbs
Actual Tongue Weight 1,240 lbs
Weight Levered off Rear Axle 600 lbs
Weight Transfer to Steer Axle 420 lbs
Weight Transfer to Trailer Axle 180 lbs
My conclusion: Your trailer is a little on the heavy side, but given that you have an F350, I'm confident you are still under the rear GAWR for the truck. Some additional weight distribution (think grabbing another link on the chains or tipping the head back one more notch) would help restore a bit more of the weight back to the front axle and reduce the chances of understeer in wet weather.
In reality, the truck isn't anywhere near its limits.
I'm with the majority that the Andersen hitch plate in no way caused the damaged/torn weld. It it, in fact, rubbing the bottom of the frame, but that's it. My money is on the damage coming from the fork truck they likely used at the shop.
Another item to note: The measurements are decent references to get the truck 'in the ballpark'. The truly dial it in, WEIGH THE RIG!! It's easy, costs $11 or $12 at most, and gives you the opportunity to see exactly how effective (or INeffective) your setup is at managing the tongue weight.
I used some cheaper Camping World strap-ons for a year with my F150. I originally bought the ones with two mirrors, but three mirrored surfaces were just too much movement in my peripheral vision all the time. I exchanged them for the single lens strap-ons and it was much better. It takes some getting used-to either way.
you wont need them with the gas engine in the 250. its when you get the heavy diesel engine it eats up alot of your payload capacity.
Say what? Heavy diesel is on front axle. Heavy pin weight is on rear axle. Airbags do not change payload, they level sagging trucks.
I get what he is implying though... take two otherwise-identical trucks, one gasser and one diesel, and in f250 form, the gvwr will be 10k for both vehicles. The extra weight of the diesel will eat into the available payload, despite the weight being over the front axle.
On some Fords (and I don't know if yours is one offhand) you can pull the excess cable from the pedal mechanism, then insert a pin into a hole on the pedal assembly (I was able to use a small screwdriver) to hold that spring tension off the front end of the cable. THen, if you can manage to disconnect any of the clips, you can separate any cable you want. (I was replacing the front cable on mine, and couldn't separate the clip without a hammer, punch, and solid board to whack it on)