I would challenge it to back up this little 4x8 enclosed trailer that I have.
The problem is being able to SEE the trailer to back it up. With the trailer straight behind you, it cannot be seen in the side view mirrors no matter where you adjust them. If you can see it in a sideview mirror, it is too late; you're jackknifed.
Ford is working on a solution to that problem too. One solution has been out there for a while in the form of a back-up camera on the tailgate. I know several people who have/use them and they're helpful for smaller trailers.
I had a similar problem with my F150 and a single-place jet ski trailer. With the jet ski on it, I could see the handlebars over the tailgate, but with no ski on the trailer it's impossible to see. It took a $6 bicycle flag and a stainless steel bolt and wing-nut to solve the problem. The flag was trashed after about two years, but the fiberglass pole still served as a good guide when backing the empty trailer down the ramp.
I had a similar experience with Weathertech... Ordered a set of mats for my wife's car this summer. Somehow, despite several 'verify your order' pages, I ordered the wrong color. I called customer service, explained what happened, and figured I'd be on the hook for shipping the new ones in the right color. Much to my surprise, they issued the RMA and said that as soon as they receive them, they'll send the right color free of charge.
They did exactly that! My error cost me $11 to ship them back and nothing more. Couldn't be happier!!
I have a coworker who has extensive experience pulling trailers with his truck, and is more than capable of doing it himself. He was part of a group of employees who got to try out the feature as part of its development.
He wants it.
He said that even though he's more than capable, the system actually works really well for what it does.
That rating is rated for the hitch receiver ONLY, not necessarily for your truck.
But yes, if you use a WDH with it, the receiver can handleup to1500lbs.
You need to check the truck's spec as far as how much hitch weight it can handle.
This. That is the receiver's rating and in no way affects the vehicle manufacturer's ratings for GAWR/GVWR.
How do I deal with the jerks?
I don't. I learned a long time ago that no matter how bad a driver the other jack-wangs are, getting upset about it won't make them better drivers.
I do my thing. When they cut me off, I back off. They obviously needed to get there faster then me. Have at it. When they are hanging out along-side me for too long, I give the tail a little waggle. They usually get the hint.
Make sure your insurance is paid on time, and don't worry about it. It's not worth the stress!
And honestly, I've driven through any number of metro areas, both with and without a trailer. This phenomenon is not unique to Chicago.
I read a good article a few years ago about that exact phenomenon. They trended the price of crude with the price of regular unleaded. As the price of crude went up, so did the price of gas. However, when the price of crude droipped, it took, on average, three months for the gas prices to correct back to the 'normal' levels that paralleled the crude prices before the increase.
The biggest advantage a tuner will provide is better shifting. In my opinion, that alone is worth the investment. I've had one on my 2000 f150 almost since it was new, and it makes a world of difference. Power wise, I'm never going to feel the extra 15hp they claim it makes, but it never hesitated to downshift, and firms up those shifts noticeably.
Got gas today here in southeast Michigan for $3.69/gallon (for premium... Regular was 2.89 on the same pump). Gas shot up more than a dollar a gallon in many places here last week after there was news about a regional refinery that had to shut down for repairs. It has been trickling back down since everyone realized the stations were full of it and the supply would not be significantly affected, but it's still not toeing the 2 dollar mark yet...
I have almost the identical combination to you. I used my 2000 F150 5.4 4x4 to tow our new (to us) Jayco Featherlight 29y (30-ft, 6800lb loaded) the first summer we had it. The truck had about 85k on it then, and wasn't my daily driver at that time (it is now). On paper, all was good. I dialed in the weights with the WDH, and we set out on our summer of camping.
Did it get us there? Yes.
Was it a pleasant experience? No.
Would I do it again? If I had to, and only then, not happily.
We have a Reese WDH with a friction sway control. Even with the sway control locked-down tight, I still got pushed around a fair amount. I never had any times where I felt out of control, and was white-knuckled a bit in heavy semi traffic on the freeway, but it was never a relaxing trip.
The next summer, we upgraded the tow vehicle to a 2010 V-10 Super Duty. Had I known how much better it would tow the trailer, I wouldn't have suffered through the first summer with the F150. The Super Duty is downright pleasant to drive pulling the trailer. Same trailer, same hitch (I think I tweaked the head angle one notch to account for the longer wheelbase of the truck), same sway control; night-and-day better towing experience. The drive is downright relaxing now. No concerns about insufficient brakes, I don't get blown around by passing trucks, and the rig is downright planted. I do, on occasion, get pushed around a bit in heavy crosswinds, but we're talking 30-40mph gusts that would blow the truck about unloaded too. It'll drag that trailer all over town all day long and never break a sweat.
In terms of power, the F150 had a tough time holding overdrive at 55 or 60 on the flat lands. Any mild hill caused it to drop out of OD, so on the west side of Michigan, I spent a lot of time screaming in 3rd gear.
The V-10, by comparison, still needs to drop a gear or two from time to time, but the tow/haul mode makes short work of it, but the added ponies help it hold the higher gears a lot better. Mileage while towing is about the same (9-10), but the available power is night-and-day by comparison.
If you need to pull a 5th wheel and you don't have a pickup maybe.
I saw a big DP pulling a 5th wheel rubble decker car trailer with one, I guess that would be the only way to do it.
I've also seen this several times. Lots of racers use them at the drag strip around here. (OK, a handful, but they're not a rare sight) You can get a whole 'nother car in a triple-axle 5er stacker compared to a tag trailer.
After reading through your first post, my though was, right from the start, that the fan is a symptom of something being hot, not a failed part. I think we can all agree at this point that it was/is working just like it's being told to by the ECU.
On this front, checking the cooler is essential. It's possible that the cooler isn't getting fluid to cool (the bad bypass valve theory, and they do, on occasion, fail), the oil-to-water heat exchanger could be plugged/failing to transfer the heat, or the secondary oil-to-air heat exchanger (if so-equipped) could be experiencing the same issues. Without logging their data and being able to compare it to a similar vehicle, they're relying solely on what the ECU can tell them, and all it's telling them is that the fluid is hot; not WHY the fluid is hot.
Troubleshooting the system components should be fairly simple. It can be done remotely with thermocouples, but it's difficult to do and requires a ton of work. Shooting it with an IR thermometer generally provides sufficient information for troubleshooting purposes.
My bet is either a bad bypass valve, or a clogged radiator. I've seen certain kinds of coolant gel in the passages of the radiator, but that was generally only on the diesels, not the gas engines. (Caused by a strange chemical reaction between the coolant and the materials in the system)
Good luck, and keep us posted. The suspense is killing me!!
On a Ford Explorer forum I used to frequent, someone several years back asked a question inquiring what could be dripping from his moonroof? He had recently purchased the vehicle used, and something oily was dripping from around the moonroof area, near the overhead console. We were all at a loss since, aside from a small dribble of water that leaks past the seal and out the drains, there's nothing there that could leak, let alone an 'oily' substance, in any way, shape, or form.
A couple weeks later, he posted some pictures. He dropped the overhead console, and inside it, he found about 8 pounds of a mix of dog food, cat food, and paintballs. Yes, paintballs... As in the kind you put in a paintball gun and shoot people with. Apparently some little chipmunk had been raiding the dog food, cat food, and his stash of paintballs, and carrying them up the suspension, through some hole in the body, up the A-pillar and into the space above the headliner and overhead console. The paintballs, being bio-degradeable, had essentially melted in the humidity from the air, and it's the 'paint' that was dripping out, looking oily because of the pet food.
Looking at the pic, I strongly suspect you are simply smacking the overload spring over bumps. They are really stiff, so you'll feel it contact. I really like the TorkLift stable-laods, as they keep the overloads engaged, eliminating the "whack" while also giving you more stability form the stiffer spring rate.
This is my guess as well.
It's a simple thing to check for: Put a piece of masking tape on the bump-stops and on the overload springs under their perches. Take the rig for a drive, and see what's rubbing. That'll tell you for sure what's making contact and when.