Personally I find it much easier to back in over the passenger side. I'm able to pivot around in the seat and see that side just fine, rather than trying to squint into a mirror. I have a lot more practice backing to that side as that's the only way I can jack-knife it into my current driveway, and despite how narrow it is, I usually manage it on the first shot these days.
But the key regardless of which way you go, is practice. Again and again and again. Every site will be different, every situation will present its own set of challenges. Every one will teach you something about handling your rig. :)
For starters, a 9k trailer will have a tongue weight in the 1000-1300lb range. Air up the bags if you think it will help, just readjust the hitch to compensate for it with a lower drop to level the trailer back out.
Here's another option for you:
THen send it over to Quigley for a 4x4 conversion, and you should be golden! ;)
But seriously, you could pick up a used e-series with a diesel for under $20, then send it over to Quigley for a 4x4 conversion, and be good to go! More space then you could possibly use, 4wd, and camper-pulling would never be an issue!
If I had 40K to put into a vehicle that had to seat six large (or tall) people, had to have 4WD, and needed to be able to capably tow a decent size trailer, I'd be looking at a van.
But not any van...
Both come with full Factory support, and can be serviced or repaired at ANY Ford dealer nationwide. They use mostly off-the-shelf components from Ford.
They're not cheap new, but used ones in good shape can be had in that price range easily. It's about a $13k option on a new one, but they can't be beat! There's a 2007 on ebay now with a v-109 and nder 30K on it right now!
(Just thinking... Not sure if you can still order them or not as they are being phased-out for the Transit... :( )
ETA: I'm forgetting that they both convert other non-Ford vans into 4x4 as well... I'm a little biased towards the blue oval product myself...
Haven't towed with it, but I've put about 15k on my company's work vehicle in the last year, a 2014 Explorer Sport. The ride is a little stiff, and I am old enough that I prefer the cushier seats in the Limited over the boards in the Sport.
That being said, I love the fact that the EcoBoost makes that tank of an Explorer go like stink! 12PSI of forced induction makes a night-and-day difference compared to the naturally aspirated motor that was in the limited I had a couple months back as a loaner while my truck was in the shop.
I would think that towing-wise, it would do about as well as the last-gen Explorers in terms of stability.
A buddy at work suggested something I hadn't thought of: replace the light with one from a camper. It would have a switch built on which I could replace with an spdt on-on switch, feeding one from the some circuit and one from a hot circuit protected by the battery saver relay. A bit more complex than originally planned, but should work well.
Should be a power wire in the trailer wiring bundle
I considered using the switched charge life at the trailer connector as a last resort, but that would also require a switch the light itself does not have one.
As Chris previously mentioned, the Intellitec Monoplexer is the easy way to accomplish what you want to do.
Good. Have been trying to figure out how to use the shower without running to kitchen and back after I've opened the faucet. Pump switch is in the kitchen and there is no pressure switch in my pump. The pump manual says not to run it against closed faucet. Don't want to add a pressure switch either - it's scary when it suddenly comes on like a thunder.
What pump do you have? I haven't seen an RV water pump that didn't utilize a built-in pressure switch to regulate the on/off cycling of the pump.
Ditto. You could probably get them out, and might be able to disassemble them to the point of being able to get the washer out, and if you're really lucky, find a replacement washer that will work...
I'd replace 'em though... It's really not worth the effort.
That's certainly the circuit I want to use, but I'm not sure where a good place to catch it and run the wires might be... Unfortunately the schematics don't show anything blunt-cut for that purpose. :(
I have a 2010 SuperDuty (Crew cab, short bed) I recently bought a used cap for. There are two pairs of wires at the rear corner, one for the third brake light and one for the interior dome light. There is a brake light signal wire in the wiring harness at the bumper, so that's easy, but can anyone tell me where the easiest/best place would be to catch power for the interior dome light circuit? I'm not seeing anything obvious in the schematics for the truck.
Indeed, those are the two concerns. Even with weight distribution, one must still ensure that the tongue weight does not exceed the receiver's capability. The rule of thumb is just that: a generalization, but a good reference point. Outside the 10-15% TW range, things can often make for an unpleasant towing experience. There are always exceptions, but it is a pretty decent reference value that can be used.
But as was mentioned, ultimately, the actual axle weights are what matters.
I do like the new Ford transmissions which had a true gear selection, which will lock top gear and let the speed drop a few MPH on hills, instead of downshifting hold the exact set speed no matter what.
Yes, but when you go from auto to manually setting the gear, doesn't it start pumping more fuel trying to maintain speed? That's what my car with the manual tranny does anyway, and I doubt that it's more fuel efficient. Being able to set a relatively constant throttle would be better I think.
It has to do with the efficiency of the Persian. For a particular load at a particular speed, it takes a certain amount of power to do that work. The question is: at what gear and, therefore rpm will will the engine produce that power most efficiently? Every combination of tire vehicle and trailer will have a slightly different answer that question. There are no generalizations that can be drawn across all makes, models, or powertrains. This thread will go on ad nauseam...
Been using it since I was in high school (20 years ago! Yikes, I feel old now!!) Huge fan. On the windshield of a new vehicle, it usually takes two coats a couple of days apart to get it on there thoroughly. Not sure why, but it's always been my experience that the first coat doesn't take well.
Since I started using the Rain-X washer fluids, it lasts even longer and seldom needs to be reapplied but maybe every second or third year for the windshield. (Usually twice a year if I use the cheap washer fluid) The side-glass and rear window will go several years as well.
There are no one or two specific parameters that can be summarized even further to determine what's 'best' or 'most efficient' for any one particular rig. Every rig is different and every rig will generate different results.
Now, if you isolate as many variables as possible and focus on one specific rig, the easiest thing to do is spend $15 or $20 for a bluetooth OBD-II scanner, plug it in, connect it to your smartphone, pay the $5 for the Torque app and look at the instantaneous fuel economy numbers. You will find that under certain loads and certain operating conditions, the engine will have a 'sweet spot' where fuel efficiency is maximized. This is a result of the particular combination of tow vehicle, wind resistance, wind direction, transmission gearing, final drive ratio, tire size, tire compound and rolling resistance, air temperature, fuel octane rating, fuel quality, humidity level, and several more I'm sure I missed. Some vehicles and rigs will run more efficiently at higher RPM/lower gear. Some will be more efficient at a lower RPM/higher gear.
FWIW, on my daily commute with my 2000 F150 5.4, I've found that on flat, level ground, I can eke-out about 15 if I set the cruise around 66. If I slip in behind a semi and draft, I can either up the economy to over 20 at that speed, or I can up my speed to almost 70 with the same fuel economy.
The old saying, 'your mileage may vary' certainly applies here.
The first one.
It could also be worded this way:
Tongue Weight = (Rear axle weight with trailer)-(rear axle weight without trailer)-(weight transferred from front to rear by the tongue weight)
That last term is (front axle weight without trailer)-(front axle weight with trailer)
I do NOT recommend using these...don't think they have enough strength
holding several tons of trailer going at highway speeds
I see nothing wrong with using them, provided they are rated for the weight. THe ones I have to use are rated for 10,000lbs each. I have the cast spring-clipped hooks you showed above, but the hook will not physically fit through the hole on the receiver without interfering with the pin for the receiver. (Too much stuff, not enough space)
I have a handy-dandy spreadsheet to plug & chug the numbers for me. (I can send it to you if you'd like). I had to tweak one number to make the two gross combined readings equal the same for the spreadsheet to work properly, so I removed 20lbs from the trailer axle weight in your second pass. (20 lbs is basically the tolerance of the scale)
That being said, I got the following values:
Actual Trailer Weights
Gross Axle Weight 7,140 lbs
Tongue Weight 1,240 lbs
Gross Trailer Weight 8,380 lbs
Tongue Weight (% of GTW) 14.80%
Trailer Effect on Tow Vehicle
Weight added to rear axle 1,740 lbs
Weight transferred from front axle 500 lbs
Actual Tongue Weight 1,240 lbs
Weight Levered off Rear Axle 600 lbs
Weight Transfer to Steer Axle 420 lbs
Weight Transfer to Trailer Axle 180 lbs
My conclusion: Your trailer is a little on the heavy side, but given that you have an F350, I'm confident you are still under the rear GAWR for the truck. Some additional weight distribution (think grabbing another link on the chains or tipping the head back one more notch) would help restore a bit more of the weight back to the front axle and reduce the chances of understeer in wet weather.
In reality, the truck isn't anywhere near its limits.