Use a meter to check the fuses. They may look good, but, still be burned out.
If fuses are all good, start looking for a bad connection. Pull the converter out of the wall, and check connections where the wires connect to fuse panel and ground bar.
Could be moisture frozen in the motor / gears. Warming with a blow dryer or forced air heater, might help.
You say motor turns, Is that manually or electric?
If motor runs electrically, it could be a shear pin. Here is a link to an article (with pictures)about shear pins.
If motor doesn't run electrically, it could be a short stop breaker. Like this
I've used my TT in cold weather, numerous times. Here are some of the challenges I've experienced:
1. Finding a dump station can be difficult. I've been in campgrounds that will only provide electric. No running water and no dumping.
2. I have electric tank and pipe heaters installed to within 10 inches of the dump valve. High winds and very cold temps, that wasn't good enough to protect the valve itself. Now, I carry plenty of disposable pocket warmers. When I leave the campground, I remove the cap on dump valve and put in a couple warmers . Then replace the cap. They keep the valve thawed until I can get to the dump station. Don't dump the warmers in the sewer.
3. Had an ice storm that killed shore power in the campground. I had enough pink stuff to winterize right away.
4. I've had ice build up on television antenna. Had to get up on the roof and thaw it out to bring it down storage position.
5. I've had the propane regulator freeze up. Plenty of gas in the bottles, couldn't get any out.
Disposable pocket warmers, RV antifreeze, ladder, and a 12 volt hair dryer come in real handy.
thanks everyone!Oh yeah, how do I measure the cab height? is it a physical measurement we need to take, or is it in the spec sheet?
It's a physical measurement.
Measure truck bed floor to where you have two to four inches clearance above the cab. If there are clearance lights or antenna of some kind, make sure to clear them.
On a potential camper, measure from bottom of the camper box to bottom of cabover.
Your seller will probably already know if you need spacing in your truck bed.
I needed three inches of spacer, to put my TC in an F250.
I screwed a double layer of 2 X 4 and one layer of 1 X 4 on the bottom (around the perimeter) of the camper. It raised the camper 3.5 inches and gives me that open space underneath.
My fresh tank is up front. That open space allowed me to run a drain tube to the rear of the camper. Now I can drain the fresh tank, without getting water in the truck bed.
Your sig shows an F450. For certain years, Ford cab height is higher than GM and Dodge. Some campers were / are a bit short in cab clearance. When doing your camper shopping, check measurements for cab height. You may need some type of filler (wood, foam, etc) in the truck bed. You may also, consider a rubber bed mat.
On my TC, the wood is actually fastened to bottom of the camper, and I have the bed mat.
Besides winterizing, consider the surface the trailer will be parked on. You may want to place wood under the tires, if you're parking on grass / dirt. Consider purchasing some tire covers and do a thorough springtime inspection.
Outdoor storage will weather the tires and caulking faster than being indoors. In the spring, check caulking on roof seams, around running lights, doors, and windows. Clean and recaulk any cracks.
Have one, a trunion (1500 lb) bar broke within the first mile of towing. Blue Ox replaced the bars, but, they did not arrive in time for my trip. Have not had an opportunity to tow with it since.
Hopefully, it's not a common occurance and doesn't happen again.
Probably, cheaper to hire someone who knows what they are doing, than driving 1500 miles. Maybe there is an RV dealer (close to brother in law), who could send someone out to do it. Maybe, brother in law knows someone local, who could do it.
If pipes are already freezing, it could be too late.
Could be slush in the lines, P traps, and holding tanks. The pump may not have enough pressure to push it out. Blowing lines may not work either. It's possible, the trailer will need to be warmed up to do winterizing.
All depends on how cold and length of time.
cdlaine said it well. I too, received the same promises and low wages. I was also in that goup who enlisted in the 70's. A time when military members didn't get the welcome, that they get today. Walking through L.A. international airport, 1974, in dress uniform, some upstanding citizen thought it would be appropriate to spit on me. We held up our end of the deal, they should do the same.
Since retiring in 1995 (with 20% service connected disability), I too, have experienced the increased premiums for that "free" medical and dental care. I just received my info package for next years dental coverage. Higher premiums and lower benefits. This past July, I was on a trip and needed to visit a clinic for some stiches. I found out, stiches cost about 100.00 each. I had to have five of them. Tricare paid 40.00 out of 500.00.
Washington needs to cut spending, but, not on promises made to those who paid (and continue to pay) to keep them in the cushy life style they've become accustomed to. DOD is not the only budget item subject to cutting. It's been cutting for several years. Every squadron, every aircraft carrier, and every Naval Air Station that I served on or with, have been decommisioned, realigned, or closed, and the associated personnel costs went away with them. This downsizing was done to all services. Where did those savings go?
When was the last time we heard about downsizing welfare (that continues to rise), foriegn aid (that continues to rise), congressional pay and benefits (that continues to rise), the IRS (they just got 10,000 more agents to help with affordable health care), and multimillion dollar vacations for white house residents?
There was a recent change to secret service protection for former presidents. Used to be ten years after they left office, that was good enough for everyone prior to the current one, now it is lifetime. How many former presidents have needed secret service protection? How many closed commisaries and retiree benefit cuts, will it take to pay for that?
There are many, who are clueless as to what some military benefits really are. My mother in law, at one point thought, due to low pay, base exchanges and commissaries were where we went to pick up our free groceries and clothing and such. No doubt, there are policy makers in Washington, who have never served, don't know anybody who has served, and think the same as mother in law used to.
Am I proud of mine or other peoples service -- Yes
Am I proud of our self serving elected officials -- None come to mind.
Has anybody used these ultraheat pads down into subzero temps?
I have them installed on both TT and TC. They were factory installed on the trailer. I added them on the truck camper. Deer camp in North Dakota, it's not unusual to see - 5 to - 10.
They worked fine, except for the dump valve. My tanks were warm enough, but, the dump valve froze up. This was with pipe and elbow heaters installed to within eight inches of the valve. Warm tanks are useless, if you can't get rid of the stuff.
Little trick I have learned -- Put a gallon of pink stuff in each tank, before use, and a couple hours before dumping, I put an extension (six inch) on the valve, fill it with disposable pocket warmers, and put the cap back on. By the time I get to dump station, the valve is thawed enough to dump. Put the used warmers in the trash and dump as usual.
Also, it can be difficult finding an open dump site. Many of them close up in cold weather.
My brother had a similar situation, along with a ten inch crack in the tank. We used a polyurethane caulking, around the collar and fiberglass mesh with the caulking, to cover the crack. It's still holding after five years.
The caulking was Vulkem 116. If you use it, clean surfaces to be caulked, wear gloves, and make sure you're well ventilated.
Hello all, I'm new to the forum, it looks very helpful. I have a question about pulling with a F-250. We shopped today for a new rv, thinking about a 32ft bumper pull. The dealership is trying to sell us a weight distribution system and a sway bar. Do I need a weight distribution system? Do I need a sway bar? The trailer is 7765 pounds unloaded, and a dry hitch weight of 780lbs. I'm thinking I don't need the weight distribution, but maybe a sway bar? Thanks for any help!
That UVW 7765 and dry hitch weight of 780, is what the trailer weighed when it left the factory. It did not include propane, battery, or any dealer installed options. Propane and battery will add about 100 lbs to both UVW and hitch weight. Now the numbers are UVW 7865 and 880 hitch.
Average load of dishes,bedding,camping gear, and groceries, is about 1000 lbs. This makes loaded weight 8865 and hitch (average 12% of loaded weight) weight 1064. Keep in mind, at this point, your black and grey holding tanks are still empty. When full, they could add a lot more. (My black and grey combined, 114 gallons at approximately 9 lbs per gallon.)
Depending on how the trailer is loaded, the hitch weight could be as high as 1330. My hitch weight varries +/- 200 lbs, depending on how much fresh water is onboard. (My fresh tank is behind the axles.)
There could be a situation where you would need to tow with tanks fully loaded. If that happened, you would be over 9000 lbs and pushing that 1300 lb hitch weight.
The dealer is correct in advising you to get weight distribution and sway control. The WD is due to the weight and sway control is due to trailer length. Thirty two feet, is a lot of sail. (My trailer size and weight are similar to what you are looking at. I tow with an F250, and, I can tell you, "you need WD and sway control".)
The best brand depends on who you talk to, and, how much money you have. Most convenient are those with integrated sway control. You should look at hitches rated for at least 1200 lbs, 1400+ would be even better.
Do some research on hitches and hitch sources. The RV dealer may not be the best place to buy.
First, check with local locksmith, to see if they can make copies. They may or may not have the blanks.
There are several sellers on eBay, who have blanks for the various RV locks. Some will cut them, if you provide the code. Go on eBay and do a search for "RV key blanks".
Last time I had keys made, I purchased the blanks on eBay, and got them cut at a local hardware store.
Use pallets under the floor of the camper to support it.
Pallets, blocks of wood, jack stands, barrels, pretty much anything that will support the floor.
I use these.
My brother built a basement (interlocking plywood sheets) to set the camper on.
Could be a fuse or reset breaker. Breakers look like this.
Unplug shorepower and test (with a meter) the 12 volt fuses. All fuses good, restore shore power and move on to the breaker. Sometimes, cycling shore power off / on (you already did that with fuse check) will reset the breaker. Some breakers have a button for resetting.
Follow the positive battery cable, from battery, under the trailer, to a junction box. Look for a breaker near that junction box.
If breaker is good, it should have 12 volt power between the two posts. Another test, disconnect shore power, and test continuity between the breaker posts.
Breakers are available (under 10.00) at most auto parts stores. They come in varying amperages. For a slide out, most likely a 30 amp.