Your fuse / breaker box is actually two electrical systems. 12 volt DC system uses the fuse panel and 120 volt AC uses the circuit breakers. The 120 VAC passes through the breakers to power up the converter, AC outlets, and air conditioner. Your fridge is connected to both. It is plugged into an outlet (hidden outside) and wired into 12 VDC system for gas operation. If fridge is set on auto, and you are plugged into shore power, it is running on 120 VAC, and completely seperate from your lighting system.
The lights are 12 volt only. They get power from your battery, or, if plugged into shore power, directly from converter.
The listed symptoms don't make sense, unless there are problems with both 120 VAC and 12 VDC systems.
First, determine what your power usage might be. Lights, water pump, fan, gas detector, refridgerator, furnace, television, radio, etc. Keep in mind, on a cool night, your furnace could put a heavy drain a single 12 volt battery, and your solar panels give you nothing in the dark. Changing all the light bulbs to LED's, will cut lighting power usage, by about 70 percent.
Approximately 250 watts solar output, 30 amp controller, and a battery bank big enough to handle your power usage. Wire runs should be short as possible and done with 10 - 12 gage stranded copper wire.
What I have:
Two 128 watt (24 volt) panels
Two group 24 batteries
30 amp MPPT controller
The MPPT controller takes up to 48 volt input, and, converts it to 12 volt output.
If you go with PWM controller, your panels must be 12 - 18 volt. Many panels state they are rated at 18 volts, but, actual output is more like 14 volts, which is fine for charging your batteries.
Has anyone ever added a new roof vent? I don't mean replacing an existing one ... I mean cutting the hole in the roof and putting one in where there wasn't one to begin with. Any tips or thoughts?
I did it on a previous trailer.
I emailed the manufacturer (Starcraft) and told them what I wanted to do. They actually sent me drawings that showed all the roof structures along with AC ducting. They couldn't send wiring diagram, because, wiring inside the ceiling is done while the unit is being built.
With the drawings and a stud finder, I was able to measure and mark the spot for the vent.
To prevent hitting any wiring, I used a spiral zip saw, set to cut slightly less than the depth of ceiling panel. Then finished the cut with a razor knife. Good thing cut was so carefull-- I did find wires, but, they were not cut. There was enough slack in the wires, to just move them out of the way.
I used a long (small diameter) drill bit. Drilled (at the four corners) up through the roof. Then, up on roof, cut (with razor) an "X" between the four drill holes. Fold the rubber roof material out of my way, connect the dots and cut hole from the top. Cut the hole with rounded corners. Fold rubber roof material back into the 14" hole and cut off excess hanging inside.
Install the vent (as directed) with butyl tape and caulking. Inside, install the trim ring. Done
Just heard from my RV dealer that the TV plug checks out OK, which seems to indicate that the problem is with the trailer. It is stored out of town, so I will have to wait a while to be able to check it. What am I looking for on the trailer side that would cause the running lights to not work? Are there fuses anywhere else besides in the converter inside the coach?
I still think it is a fuse in the truck.
Have you done the jumper test (pictured above) on the trailer?
Make sure battery is charged and hooked up. Use a wire, flasher, or fuse to jumper between those terminals on the trailer plug. Your running lights should come on.
Fuse protection for the running lights, brake lights, and turn signals are in the truck. You said in your PM, your brake and turn signals are still working. If the problem is in the trailer, it would have to be a broken hot wire or a bad ground, which would most likely affect other trailer lights.
I would take a meter or test light and confirm what the RV dealer is telling you about the truck. See the picture above, test for voltage between the corresponding terminals (3 & 4) on the truck. Do this check with truck running and lights on. With test light, it will just light up. With a meter, you should see 12 - 14 volts DC. If truck fails this test, find the bad fuse in the truck.
If truck passes and jumper test fails on the trailer, next step is removing and opening the running lighs (all of them) and looking for bad bulbs and corroded or broken wire connections. When you re-install the running lights, remember to caulk them.
Hopefully, previous ownwer left some owners manuals for all the appliances.
You'll want to know date / milage since last wheel bearing repack. If unknown, do it ASAP.
You'll want to know age of the tires.
If propane tanks are 12 years or older, they may need to be recertified.
Any signs of leaks.
Lots of possibilities. Process of elimination could take some time.
Are any high amp usage (electric heat, electric water heater, microwave, air conditioner, etc) items being used?
Are other items (power tools, air compressor, other trailers, etc) running on the same circuit?
Are you using an extension cord that is maybe too long, not heavy enough to carry the load, or, not in good condition?
Any electrical connections that might have moisture?
Something plugged into an outlet, in your trailer, that might be shorted or not grounded?
Still could be the outlet.
There is no website that shows average retail or dealer cost. Best you can do, find the floor plan that fits your needs. It might be available from several manufacturers. Then research dealer prices, on those particular makes / models, from places like RV Wholesale.com, RVtrader.com, etc.
You find, the same make / model, with same options installed, will be advertised with different MSRP's. That is because, the individual dealers set their own MSRP. They base it on dealer cost, dealer nstalled options, delivery charges, and dealer mark up. One dealer might say MSRP is 40K and he'll sell the unit at 35% off MSRP. That unit will cost 26K. You might see the same unit with MSRP 35K and the dealer will sell it at 27% off MSRP. That unit is also in 26K range.
The average is 25 - 30 percent off MSRP, but, some dealers push the envelope on determining what the MSRP is.
Take a look at this ready made rack, pictured as doing exactly what you want to do.
Propane is heavier than air, and, will settle toward the ground. Would still be a good idea to use some leak detector.
get a meter and check your fuses and connections.
learn to use a meter before you throw any more money at the problem.
Sounds like your converter is working. You get 12 volt when plugged into shore power. No 12 volt from battery power.
After you've checked the main fuses (30 amp), in the fuse panel, and you're sure they are good, look for one of these. It, or, they (could be more than one if you have a slide out) will be mounted up under the trailer frame, somewhere near the connection of cable coming from positive side of battery.
Could also be a bad connection where positive battery cable connects to the trailer. Could be bad connection on negative battery cable to trailer.
Try a little test.
Check this running lights in camp ground link. Instead of a jumper wire, you can use a blade fuse to short the terminals. If your running lights turn on, your problem is in the truck.
Most likely a fuse under the hood of truck. Check owners manual.
Ford has a fuse specifically for trailer running lights. When it blows, I still have brake and turn signals, but, no running lights.
The fuse on Ford looks like this.
Maybe, Chevy is wired somewhat like Ford.
A friend of mine (a few years older than me) has had a couple strokes and early onset dimentia. He's in a nursing home and has days he doesn't recognise his wife of 30 years. He is only 69 years old.
My father, at 85, is still driving, living on his own, clears snow off the sidewalks around his condo building, goes out to breakfast with his buddies (everyday), and keeps himself busy with buying and selling things at auctions. If he had a place to store an RV, I would not be surprised to see him buy one.
There is no set age when folks should stop doing things they enjoy.
What rings the bell to us was when we saw msrp oDoes this mean Keystone make a higher quality trailer?? n passport is a few grand higher than the surveyor even though passport have less features than surveyor. We got a quote on passport to be $22800 and Surveyor to be $22300
Does this mean Keystone make a higher quality trailer??
Simple answer: NO, MSRP has nothing to do with quality.
Neither, Keystone nor Forest River, give their dealers a "manufacturers suggested retail price". The advertised MSRP's you are looking at, are determined by the individual dealers. They are based on dealer cost, dealer installed options, delivery charges, and dealer mark-up.
I was searching last year, I noticed the models I was looking for, had MSRP's that varied by as much as 10,000.00. I couldn't understand why two identical units, would have different MSRP. My short list included two Forest River products and three Keystone products. I wrote to both companies to find out why. Their answers were the same as I listed above.
I would like to add solar versus buying a Honda or Yamaha Generator. I would have to buy 2 Honda EU2000I's to run the A/C and would rather spend that amount of money on buying an initial solar set-up.
Does anyone have any experience or recommendation in setting up a solar system for this size trailer? If so, do you have any recommendations for a budget of $3,000.00 or less?
I would appreciate all answers or replies since I am not a high tech type of person. Thank you in advance for any comments or replies.
First steps in adding a solar system are determining your actual power needs (you won't have AC, microwave, and possibly television), determine location and length of possible boodocking, and increasing power storage capability (batteries). Changing your light bulbs to LED will save considerable power.
In boodocking situation, your best bet for cooling, is open windows and maybe, a 12 volt fan.
I'll be interested in this also. I didn't think it was possible to add enough solar on a TT to be able to run the A/C. That's why I got two Hondas.
It's possible, but, not realistic. You would need a battery bank that would take up your master bed room. You would need to upgrade your axles and tow vehicle to handle all that extra weight. You would need to cover the entire roof, with panels (that may not be enough). You would need 24/7 sunshine. You would need an inverter that puts out 3500 - 4000 watts (one of these cost near 600.00) . The cost of two honda's would be nothing compared to all the panels and batteries.
Check this out:
1,560 v/a (per hour)
139 amp hours unreachable level of efficiency
End of day 8 hours?
139X8 = 1,112 theoretical amp hours
Battery discharge limit 50% means a 2,224 amp hour battery bank
(20) golf cart batteries
And this is just theory. Now comes inverter losses, and the rest of reality.
"...... Let's say the jiggle with just your tug (no trailer) is a zero, and jiggle with the TT (but no Andersen) is a 10. What number would you assign to the jiggle factor on your rig WITH the Andersen installed?"
You may think that I am exaggerating, but the answer is "zero" or the same as or better than running solo. The urethane "springs" settle down the jiggles or what some call "porpoising". Those who have not tried it will argue, those that have, won't.
I don't think mine is down to zero, but, the wife has commented that she no longer needs to hold her chest, when we hit a bad spot on the interstate. I94 has a lot of them.