RE: Installing a Honda 2000watt gen internally
How will you get cooling air into the airtight enclosure? Honda 2000 is air cooled, requires a supply of cooling air, or it will quickly overheat and be ruined.
Perhaps you could use two sealed air ducts leading outside, with an in-duct blower, wired to run whenever generator runs, to provide forced air cooling.(visualize 2 ducts similar to a clothes dryer)
How will you provie airtight access to generator for starter rope, fuel resupply, etc?
Sounds impractical to me.
RE: New Tow Vehicle on the Horizon
Am towing a 3,500 lb Casita with a 2009 Ford F-150, 4x4, 5.4L, 3.55 axle ratio, equipped with the new 6-speed OD auto transmission.
It climbs right along with auto traffic over Monarch Pass and Wolf Creek Pass in Colorado. You'll be turning more than 4,000 RPM in 3rd or 4th gear. Your rig is about 1,300 lb heavier, but should do well.
Skip is right about axle ratios. Mine has the 3.55 axle, standard ratio (not 3.73, which is an option) with the trailer package. Ford's tow rating is 9,700 lb for 4x4 Supercab with BOTH 3.55 and 3.73 ratios. Perhaps 3.73 or higher is not advisable with the 6-speed transmission. You can drive in 5th gear with the 3.55 axle if desired when towing, which is analagous to a numerically high axle ratio. This is not feasible with 4-speed transmissions. It gives the best of both worlds....power when towing, and quiet, economical cruising when not.
Mine pulls the Casita at 60-65 MPH on the flat in 6th gear. Any mild upgrade causes a downshift to 5th. Fuel mileage averages 14.9 MPG (via odometer and long division) towing on flatland interstates.
RE: Fuel on the Cassiar
To begin with.....Cassiar Highway (rte 37) is approx 450 miles long. (NOT 1,000 mi.)
Cassiar Hwy runs from Yellowhead Hwy (rte 16) in the south, to AK hwy (rte 1) in the north. (junction with AK hwy is about 12 mi west of Watson Lake)
You're traveling southeastbound from Whitehorse. Why would you want to drive 12 mi past Cassiar/AK hwy junction to Watson Lake (and return), in order to buy fuel in Watson Lake, when fuel is available at the junction? (gas, RV park, etc) Sue is right.
During the season (late May through early September), fuel is available along Cassiar every 75-100 miles, at the most. (Why are you concerned, with the transfer tank?) Cassiar is presently about 95% paved...is not always smooth, but is paved.
IMO, traveling the Cassiar is a vastly superior experience, vs. following the AK hwy. My thoughts below:
1.) Stop at Boya Lake Provincial Park. (just north of Good Hope Lake) Boya Lake CG is generally considered to be one of the most outstanding campgrounds in BC.
2.) Invest a day. Go to Telegraph Creek. (see a "Milepost") Turn off at Dease Lake. Take your TV. Leave the TT in Dease Lake....is not for the "pavement/hookup/campground" crowd, but is not a daredevil thing either. You may find that experiencing the lava promontory, 1890's Telegraph Creek, and the drive along vertical canyon wall 400' above the river below in Stikine canyon is outstanding. These may be the high points of your entire trip.
3.) Go to Stewart/Hyder....many, many posts and much info. regarding them... glacier, bears, toaster museum...there's something for everyone here! How can you miss?? Tip; if you want to see bears, check salmon counts, reported by Fish & Game for rivers in the area. (use your internet skills to peruse current data) When the salmon are running, bears are there!
Welcome feedback from those who've actually been there.
RE: Health Insurance in Canada
If you have a separate medicare supplement policy, it does cover you when traveling in Canada. See your policy. (Double check this, but I don't think it's changed.)
Medicare supplements are alike in this regard (regardless of the provider), since foreign country coverage is mandated for all Medicare supplement policies by law.
On my policy, coverage is 80% of Medicare-approved expenses, during the first 60 days of a trip, after a $250 deductable, with a lifetime limit of $50,000. Supplement covers 100% of additional Medicare-approved expenses after my costs exceed $1,000.
RE: HARD TOP TONNEAU COVERS???
Take a look at "Roll-n-Lock" tonneau covers. They make a model to fit your long-bed Chevy. http://www.rollnlock.com/
Don't know what you mean by a "semi-hard" cover. Roll-n-Lock (and other) best quality roll-up covers are locking, roll up to give you full bed access, and are just as rigid as one-piece covers. These covers are expensive. ($1,000 plus)
Suggest you see an actual cover and then make up your own mind regarding rigidity.
There is a drawback to the roll-up covers....they are not totally water tight. (leak slightly along the edges in heavy rain) I don't believe there are any totally water-tight tonneau covers, except possibly those that are gasketed and mount on top of the bed rails. (Let's hear from those who disagree!)
Installed one of the above on my 2009, F-150. I'm pleased with its quality and functioning.
RE: PSA/Prostate help
See the following 45 minute video of seminar at Stanford University if you wish to educate yourself re. prostate cancer, PSA's, biopsy, treatments, risks, incidence, etc:
http://www.researchchannel.org/prog/displayevent.aspx?rID=3945&fID=345
Above seminar provides a balanced, authoratative discussion of this subject.
RE: Brake system for Range Rover
Assume you are towing with an air-braked DP.
The "Brakemaster 9160" by Roadmaster is exactly what you are looking for.
It is truly proportional. There is no intrusion into the towed vehicle's systems
RE: traveling with outboard motor
IMO, before.
Position boat with transom at water edge with bow pointed away from shore. Clamp motor to transom in the "tilt" position. You have solid footing, and will not skewer boat if you slip. Lift motor at skeg while pushing boat away from shore. In most cases, this will allow boat to float free. If too shallow, you will have to wade in about ankle-deep.
Don't drag your inflatable over rocks, etc.
Installing a heavy motor with boat afloat is difficult at best, and catastrophic at worst. Motor must be transferred directly from dock to transom. There's no place to rest a motor on its skeg, as an intermediate step, without damaging most inflatables. Is a very difficult transfer with heavy motor, while standing in the unstable boat.
RE: traveling with outboard motor
I have an 11' inflatable sportboat with aluminum floorboards, air keel, etc, rated 20 Hp. Have two outboards: a 2-stroke, 15 Hp Evinrude weighing 75 lb, and a 4-stroke, 3 1/2 Hp Tohatsu weighing 40 lb.
Physical size and weight (particularly, weight of a 100#, 25 Hp 2-stroke) should be considered. Physical size of above motors is almost identical. Powerhead of the 3 1/2 Hp is about the same physical size as the powerhead of the 15 Hp. Length is the same.
Either 15" shaft motor will fit crossways in the back of an SUV. I wouldn't consider any other location, based on the difficulty of manhandling a 100# outboard into and out of a trailer, even if you have space for it. There are no issues transporting most 2-strokes in any position.
I formerly carried the 15 Hp for seneral years in an outside compartment of my 38' DP (now sold). This worked well after I modified the compartment door to open a full 180 deg, so that motor could be directly swung into compartment, rather than installing the 75# motor at arms-length under the original 90 deg. extended door. With experience, abandoned this in favor of carrying both motor and boat in the SUV toad.
Boats are usually launched at some distance from where RV is parked. Use the toad/TV for transport. You don't want to take entire RV to and from launch site. I found that moving motor (or boat) from RV to toad, and back again, was a hassle that got old fast. (may be why many give up on the whole idea)
RE: replacing batteries w/ gell cells..still need to vent?
Itsalleasy is correct. AGM's can outgas. They should be installed in vented boxes.
I note that you refer to "gel cells" in the heading, and to "AGM's" in the body of your post. Be aware that these are different technologies, with different characteristics.
RE: Jeep Liberty Tow Vehicle
I tow a 17' Casita TT (fiberglass "egg") with a Jeep Liberty 4x4, 3.7L V-6, auto trans, with tow package. With tow package and weight-distributing hitch, the Liberty is rated to tow 5,000 lb with 750 lb max tongue weight.
My Casita is 9'-3" high and 6'-8" wide, is equipped with a 2-bar (600 lb bars) WD hitch and a friction-type sway control. Actual scale weight as towed is 3,490 lb. Actual tongue weight (Sherline scale) as towed is 495 lb. The hitch is adjusted so that the trailer rides slightly nose low, and the body drop at front wheels and at rear wheels of the loaded Liberty is the same when trailer is attached.
Conventional wisdom (short wheelbase, etc) suggests that towing a 17', 3500 lb, hard-sided TT with a Liberty is a marginal situation, at best. Surprisingly, my actual experience with the above set-up has been quite the opposite. It is somewhat more stable and less wind-sensitive than previous trailers I've towed with large vehicles. Have actul experience towing with the Liberty in 30+ mph Kansas winds.
Am not sure why I got the above happy result.(did not expect it) I suspect it is due to the combination of 3 factors: heavy tongue weight (15% of trailer), equal distribution of tongue weight between ft & rear of TV, and the rounded contour of the Casita. Whatever the reason, I'll take it!
Re. 2wd Liberty....it may have different ride height and spring rates than the 4wd. Don't know. If so, you will get somewhat different results.
Would like to hear from others with experience (not expectations and opinion) actually towing with Liberty.
RE: Do I need more protection for my toad?
It depends on where you drive.
No, IMO, if you drive on paved roads 99% of the time like most DP's. Occasional short sections of gravel (a mile or so) through construction zones and the like that are traveled at low speeds should be OK.
OTOH, you DO need additional toad protection if you travel significant distances on unpaved roads. Rear flap and flaps behind rear wheels did not adequately protect toad behind my DP, when traversing several hundred miles of gravel road.
Use the search function. This topic has been endlessly debated on the forums many times, without a definitive answer. My take on all that is that some type of additional shield installed on the towbar is needed per the above, is most favored, and is most effective, vs. bras, coatings, etc. There is plenty of discussion and opinion for you to choose from.
RE: Can't Open Compartment Door
Had same problem in the two rearmost compartments in my DP after several hundred miles of rainy travel on gravel roads in Yukon. Latch mechanisms were packed with mud and could not be actuated.
Look at the latch striker plates on your compartments. Striker plates on mine were surface-mounted on the face of the steel compartment frame...each plate was attached with 2 hex head sheet metal screws.
From underneath, shine a flashlight up into the gap between the inside face of compartment door and the door frame. If like mine, you will see the latch plates and their attaching screws. Using a small combination wrench, remove these screws and the latch plates.
Hope the above is understandable. This will work if you have the same door configuration.
RE: Hypalon or PVC inflatable in Alaska?
One more time....
Hypalon is a registered trademark of DuPont Corp. It is a coating material, not a base fabric. Hypalon is highly resistant to UV degradation, and to degradation from contact with hydrocarbons. (spilled gasoline/oil) Polyvinyls are not.
Strength and snag resistance are dependent on the base fabric used (type, denier, weave), and on seam construction, not upon the coating on the fabric.
A PVC boat will do the same job, but will have a shorter life than an equivalent Hypalon boat. PVC will cost 10-15% less. (see Walker Bay Boats for one cost comparison) Your choice....
I see you've dropped the 8 Hp for 10 Hp. Good idea! 10 Hp should reliably get you up on plane and will go 15+ mph with a load.
Also see that you're planning to put the 10 Hp on a 10' boat, rated for 10 Hp max. IMO, it's not a very good idea to power any boat (rigid or inflatable) with its placarded max Hp. These tend to handle poorly at max power. Believe you'd be happier with an 11 footer, rated for 15 Hp. It should plane easier, handle better, and will go just as fast as the 10'. (only 10 lb heavier)
If you have not already done so, look at Defender Industries website. (http://www.defender.com/) They are the largest retailer of inflatables, stock many brands, and list specs for many different boats. You won't go far wrong with an Achilles or Avon.
RE: inflatable boat to Alaska?
Back again with an opinion. I'm sure you will get many, probably contradictory.
I think your proposed boat is too small, and the proposed motor's too big. The incremental weight/cost increase of a somewhat larger boat is small. The interior space increase, seaworthiness, and increased carrying capacity are large. Suggest 10'-11' for 2 people. (a foot of length makes a big difference in inflatables)
Tube diameter and, particularly, the fabric used are most important. A 15" tube diameter in this size boat is OK.... 16" is better, and 17" would be better yet. Fabric is paramount. (also alluded to by several knowlegable posters above) You can save 50% on cost by buying unreinforced film or light weight fabric, but you're likely to get only 10-20% service. Get a boat constructed of 1000 denier (or more) coated fabric. Quality is not cheap.
My boat is now 18 years old. Bought it in 1991 along with a 15 Hp, 2-stroke Evinrude motor. Boat is 11', 1000 denier coated fabric, aluminum floorboards, fiberglass transom, air keel, rated 20 Hp and 1150 lb capacity, weight 128 lb in two packages. It'll go 25 mph with one person....exhilarating. but often airborne. Has been transported in my airplane, in various Beavers and Otters for fly-in fishing, in compartment of DP, in cars, minivan and Jeep. Has run whitewater in Tonsina and Copper Rivers (and elsewhere) salmon fishing in AK, has been used extensively in Long Island Sound, and has been towed behind rental houseboats. It's as servicable today as the day I bought it.
IMO, an 8 Hp motor is a poor choice. It's heavy, and not powerful enough to reliably plane the boat. If it did so, would be squirrely on an 8-9 footer. Get a 3 Hp 4-stroke motor. (got one a year ago...now have 2 motors) It's quiet, light weight, will push your boat along at 7-8 mph, and will run all day on a gal. of gas. Forget the electric. You don't need the hassle of a 50 lb battery and recharging.
Don't purchase a rigid-floor sportboat like mine. Employ new technology. Get a boat with a high-pressure air floor. (not roll-up floor) The rigid-floor boats have excellent performance, but are quite difficult to assemble, even if you're facile.
Guess I've disagreed with much of what you propose...sorry!
RE: inflatable boat to Alaska?
A small boat(any kind) greatly expands your horizons when in the interior of northern Canada and AK. Once you're more than 1/4 mile away from a launch point, which will be complete with cars, people, dogs, etc, you'll find scenery, wildlife, and fishing that the shore-bound never experience.
An inflatable boat is an excellent choice. They are extremely stable and carry a large load, but are not something you want to paddle very far when going upwind. (3ft forward and 2ft back) You should have a small motor and need a quality boat with multi-ply coated fabric construction if you want something durable that will withstand dragging, snags, etc.
I don't suggest a canoe, unless you are already a canoe person. You're likely to find the lack of stability unnerving.
Don't get fixated on AK. Northern BC and the Yukon offer lakes, rivers, and scenery that are fully the equivalent of what you'll find in interior AK. Leave the RV-stream on the AK Hwy. For example, check out the Campbell Hwy in the Yukon in your Milepost. (340 miles, half gravel, a tenth of the AK Hwy traffic/people, access to mountain lakes and streams, no-hookup, lakeside government campgrounds) You can really enjoy a boat there, and may even catch a fish!
RE: The Cassiar Highway
Where's Sumas? Total length of the Cassiar Highway is approx. 450 miles. Cassiar is presently about 95% paved.
Recommend a side trip to Stewart and Hyder. Search these on the forum. There is much information/photos available.
If you're not afraid of gravel, go to Telegraph Creek. (turnoff at Dease Lake) Take your toad. It is not a road for large RV's. This is a stunning drive into the Stikine River canyon, and to a settlement little changed since since gold rush days.
Boya Lake provincial campground (just north of Good Hope Lake) is generally considered to be outstanding.
RE: Running a fridge on inverter with 2 6volt batteries
djmiranda1:
Correct....21 hours. If starting with warm fridge (warm contents?), fridge will run continuously until it and contents are cooled to the set temperature. This could take several hours with a lot of warm contents. Once stabilized, I'd guess that the duty cycle to maintain this temp. would be in the order of 30%, unless you keep opening the door or have 100 deg. ambient.
More good news....Using the .9 amp Sanyo fridge, you would one-half discharge your batteries in 20 hours (no other loads). That's 1/2 of the discharge rate used in determining their 225 ah rating. Expect more than 225 ah from your fully-charged batteries at this lower discharge rate. (peruse "Peukert Effect" for details)
With the Sanyo fridge, sounds like a good, workable system, using your present batteries. The 1.5 amp fridge would be pushing things without added battery capacity.
I operated a 1.2 amp deep freezer in my DP for about 5 years with a 450 ah battery bank. Had no problems except remembering to recharge every 2 days when not traveling in order to keep things cold. You will need to recharge daily.
If you locate your fridge in a cabinet or in any location where its condenser coils are not fully exposed, you must provide forced air flow over the coils. I used a 120 vac computer cooling fan blowing over the coils. Wired it through the freezer thermostat, so that fan ran only when when freezer was running.
RE: Running a fridge on inverter with 2 6volt batteries
Your two 6 volt batteries, rated at 225 ah each, can deliver a total of 225 ah of energy at 12 vols when connected in series. (not 450 ah)
Batteries shouldn't be discharged more than about 50% if you expect them to last. This gives you about 112 ah of energy available at 12 volts before recharging.
Fridge draws 1.5 amps at 120 volts AC. That's 180 watts. Typical inverters are only 80/90% efficient. At 85% efficiency, this means you must put 212 watts (180/.85) into the 12 volt supply side of an inverter, in order to get 180 watts AC output for the fridge.
212 watts/12 vdc input equals 17.6 amps DC at the inverter input. A typical inverter, therefore, will draw approx. 17.6 amps from your batteries whenever the fridge is running.
112 ah available/17.6 amp draw means that your batteries will theoretically last 6.3 hours before you need to recharge. (That's with the fridge running 100% of the time. Not likely. At 50% duty cycle, batteries would last 12.6 hours, etc.)
Be aware that compressor-type fridges have high starting current. You will need at least a 600 watt inverter to start your fridge. 600 watt inverter may not be big enough. (depends on the specific inverter)
Above ignores the effect of the high battery discharge rate. Your batteries are rated to deliver 225 ah when discharged over a 20 hour time period. They will not deliver 225 ah when discharged at a higher rate. (in 10 hours, for example) You can expect an additional loss in the above application. (the faster the discharge rate, the less available battery capacity)
RE: How to seal LP Pigtail Hoses and Main Regulator Hose
Typical LP hoses have a pipe threaded fitting on one end, and a SAE flare fitting on the other end.
Use NO SEALANT on compression-type fittings. (SAE flare,for example)
Use sealant on pipe threaded fittings. The best choice is liquid teflon sealant. (in flexible tubes, from auto supply stores) There is also a special tape sealant for LP. Do NOT use common white teflon tape. It shreds when the fitting is tightened, thereby introducing particles of tape into the LP system which can plug orifices and regulators.
