For that trailer I would probably go with a SRW 3/4 or 1 ton with at least 2500 lbs of payload.
9-10k lbs is a pretty serious amount of weight. And you may get very close to that number pretty quickly.
There are some fake half tons that will "easily" handle that weight. However, they are pretty rare and typically special order.
Please remember that a truck having towing mirrors is not an indication that it's a HD truck.
I am a huge fan of the humble Half Ton and I want another one, however it is YOUR responsibility to properly match the truck and trailer together. The great news is that you are asking questions.
I will look for "half tons" with 1600-1900 ish lbs of payload and will buy a travel trailer in the 4500-5000 lb dry weight range. I am a fan of 28-30 ft trailers and feel that they are the optimal size between family space and ease of use in campgrounds and gas stations. Take a peek at the Surveyor and the Apex lines if you are committed to the half ton truck.
Otherwise, you are clearly in 3/4 ton land.
Kinda jives with my experience, though honestly, other than the unfamiliar interior, I find the Ram a softer, more carlike vehicle. Neither which are my preferred qualities in a truck. Nice to see and unbiased comparison. And the 0-60 is almost 2 seconds disparate on those 2 trucks, so seat of the pants is spot in on this case. A typical non brake torqued start is probably is even more of a difference.
Are you thinking the Ford will be the one because the comfort of the seats, or are there other factors you consider to be more important?
I wish I could put my finger on it and say "this is why" the F150 just fits me better. Maybe its because the F150 feels like the older trucks use to feel. The Ram and the Silverado half ton feel chunkier than the F150 do. I think that part of it is the dash height, both the Chevy and the Ram have tall dashboards. The F150 doesn't have this problem. With both the Chevy and the Ram I felt like I was physically working to drive them. The F150 fits like a glove. Seats, Dash, Vision over the hood, feel. Everything works together on the F150.
I have been researching this issue on the 20 hp loss on the base V6 F150 for 2015. I have a theory why its probably a GOOD thing. Remember that the base 2015 F150 V6 has an outstanding 7,600 lb tow rating... so that means that something positive is going on here. (It still has 43 more HP than the EcoDiesel)
lets look at some facts about the current 300 plus hp 3.7... this motor will make the power but it has to turn some serious RPM to make that power. It "almost" feels like turbo lag with the 3.7... rpms with little power, then HANG ON BABY....
The new 3.5 will have an 8 speed transmission... and... I suspect... will have a flatter HP curve.. at least with the 8 speed it will feel that way.
However, I just found out through my research that the new 2.7 EcoBoost is only a $495.00 option .... Hmmm.. I would sure like to drive one. LOL
I test drove an EcoDiesel last Saturday. Overall, nice ride. The power was not too bad. It was very comparable to the 2010 2v 4.6 F150 I also test drove. (Similar HP) I also test drove a Pentastar Ram and could very much feel those extra 65 horses empty, I am sure they are also evident while towing a load.
Well, today I got to spend some miles in both the EcoDiesel AND the Pentastar Ram side by side, well, one right after the other.
My dealership that I bought our Minivan let me test drive both today knowing that I wasn't buying today.
First drive was the EcoDiesel. It was a 3.55 rear axle Tradesman club cab model. 2wd. Man, this thing rides NICE. I couldn't hear the turbo spool up but I did feel a bit of turbo lag, especially from a stop light. Overall, pretty nice.
Next drive was the Pentastar V6. The Model I drove was also a tradesman club cab 3.55 rear axle ratio 4x4. Driving the 2wd and the 4x4 one right after the other I can say that the 2wd obviously rides better. Particularly in the front end. The 2wd was more nimble in handling, the 4x4 felt a bit more "chunky." Probably due to increased weight...(duh! Right!!)
As far as power the Pentastar performed as expected. The Ram edition of the Pentastar has about 15-20 ish more HP than the Pentastar in my Town and Country Van and I knew that the power should be great off the line.
Side by side, the Pentastar pulled harder and had more power than the EcoDiesel. I was surprised at how apparent the HP disparity felt in the seat of the pants. The Pentastar pulls hard off idle and moves the truck seemingly effortlessly. The Ecodiesel required me putting my foot in it a bit from a stop.
Overall, I am not sure that I personally would be happy paying $4000.00 more for 65 less HP only to gain an alleged 3 mpg gain on the highway.... this experience has me scratching my head a bit at the logic. The Base V6 simply outperforms the EcoDiesel.
Since I drove the trucks one right after the other and I drove the exact same road in the exact same conditions I figured that I would test the MPG indicator on the dashboard. I have found the indicator to be within .5 mpg on my Pentastar Van so I confidence that its relatively close.
Unscientific MPG Test Alert!!
How I did the MPG indicator test was to get both trucks up to speed and reset the MPG indicator. I did both on both trucks at about the same time and at about the same speed. When I got back to the dealership I noted the MPG indicated on both trucks.
EcoDiesel - 18.5 MPG
Pentastar - 23.3
Now, this MPG test was only over a 10 mile circle, but was interesting none the less... and really proves nothing. Just an initial obeservation.
The EcoDiesel is 100% out as far as I am concerned. Not enough positive gain for my money. The Pentastar can do everything the EcoDiesel can for thousands less...without future DPF and DEF issues to deal with just for the sake of a few more possible MPG.
In the battle for the V6 Full Size trucks the Pentastar Ram is the winner in my book followed by the Ford 3.7, EcoTec 4.3 GM, and the EcoDiesel last. Why the EcoDiesel last? Simple, it has less power than any of the base V6's available (you can even lump the Tundra's 4.0 into the mix and say the same thing) and you can FEEL the power difference.
Taking the motors out of the equation... the Ford fits me better. The seats are more comfy, the visibility over the dashboard/hood is better for me, the ride is better in my perception, Maybe its my 5 ft 8 frame that fits in the F150 better, I don't really know.. but I'm probably going to buy a 2wd SuperCrew XLT 3.7 Ford in the near future.
something is wrong.. my 99 F350 Dually didn't have overloads like the newer (05 and up) SuperDuties... and i never had an issue with sway.
You have something broke, or the trailer isn't loaded correctly. You need to check all components of the truck and trailer. Something is wrong.
I'd go for a new ecodiesel Grand Cherokee... JMHO..
7400 lb towing..
Modern day unibody vehicles are not anything like the musclecar's of the 60's and 70's.. todays Unibody's are very robust. Body on Frame has its place, thats for sure, but for these light weights, the unibody is very fine.
Especially given the frequency that most RV'ers tow.
I think we can help get you sorted out. However, we need some more info.
Personally, I am not a big fan of the Reese Dual Cam because of how finicky it is. It does work well when dialed in. When it's not dialed in..well... I'll just leave it at that. I much prefer a round bar Eaz-Lift with dual sway bars...again different discussion. LOL.
Let's put first things first.
1) Your WD bars are probably undersized for the trailer. The GVWR on the trailer is 7400 lbs, your tongue weight could easily be 1000 lbs plus loaded up. Basically rendering your 800 lb bars undersized.
2) make sure your tires (all 8) are aired up to max PSI that is located on the tires sidewall.
3) tell us if you have round bar or trunnion bar style hitch
4) Tune your brake controller so it makes the trailer brakes lead the truck so you avoid a situation where the trailer is stopping slower than the truck.
5) describe the sway you feel. Sway is nearly uncontrollable, what most describe as sway is just the suck and pull motion from passing vehicles. This is 100% normal. However, the suck and pull is unsettling if you can feel the TT being sucked and then the truck bing sucked. You want the pressure on the rig to be be the same from the truck to the trailer.
6) your truck is more than capable of handling a 7400 GVWR trailer, we just got to get some things squared away.
So if you can give us some more info and provide some pics we would love to help get this straightened out.
Here is my experience with a 31.5 ft TT and a 1997 F150, I towed with a standard WD hitch without sway control. It was not set up correctly and handled terribly, very scary situation driving like this.
I adjusted the WD hitch to be correct for the truck and pull again... The rig handled so much better, bu I got significant wiggle from passing vehicles, semis,and the worst was minivans!! Wiggle is the oscillation of the trailer independent of the truck, not sway, just the feeling that the TT was wiggling around back there.
I added a single sway bar and 75% of the wiggle between the truck and the trailer was gone.
I added a second sway bar and all of the wiggle was gone. The pressure from passing vehicles and wind pushed on the truck and trailer as one unit. There was little to no wiggle anymore, just a nice comfy tow...every single time.
I read on RV.net how I was unsafe and a danger to the entire community for running friction controls so I bought dual cam...I ran them and found that they towed no better than my rig did with the two friction bars. I now run two friction bars and prefer this set up.
We can help, we just need more info from you.
I called B&W and asked this question directly. I was told that "officially" B&W had not done any testing with the Reese Elite Underbed system specifically. However, they had heard reports from owners that this works. Some owners reported they were able to use the hitch with no problems...however, some owners reported that they had to grind a little off the B&W Companions attachment cams to make it work.
Please let me know if they tell you the same thing or something similar.
For your load the base 302 hp V6 3.7 would tow your trailer much easier and better than your current 4.6.
Supercrew 3.7 2wd all have the 3.73 rear gears and 6400 lb tow ratings and the 23 highway mpg isn't too bad a deal either.
Between the 5.0 and the EcoBoost, personally I would go with the 5.0
Forced induction is nice but I like the power off the line a N/A motor gives. Just personal preference here. No major issues with the EcoBoost.
Yes, all three manufactures are producing base motor trucks getting real world 19-22 mixed MPG depending on the driver.
I have read reports of Pentastar Ram and 3.7 F150 owners knocking down 23-34 mpg highway. I've not read too many reports on the 4.3 yet.
I'm not a brand of truck guy, I've owned Rams and Ford trucks, Several Chevy cars and am confident that all three makes a decent product.
The Pentastar is attractive to me more out of all three motors because of design advancement.
Things like the heads have integrated exhaust manifolds and my experience with my heavy Pentastar Van consistently getting 22-23 mpg in mixed driving and 28 mpg highway (yea surprised me too).
Overall, I'm leaning Pentastar Ram but that's based on just research, I will know more when I am looking out over the hood with the pedal mashed to the floor.
I scoped a crew cab Pentastar Ram online at the dealership I bought my wife's Van at. It has the 3.55 gears, 7200 lb towing capacity , and nearly 1800 lbs of payload. This truck would tow a lightweight TT Just fine. (thinking Apex 288BHS coming in at 4842 lbs dry)
I would not hesitate to use the 3.7 F150 or the 3.6 Pentastar or the 4.3 EcoTec GM to pull a trailer like this. They all three have WAY more HP than my old 5.4 97 F150.
The VVT in the EcoTec is still a question mark in my mind. One camshaft and VVT....I'm in wait and see mode. However, I have not read any reports of issues with the single cam VVT.
Today I went and drove a 3.7L crew cab F150. To say the least I am impressed with this little motor. It was a brand-new 2014 super crew 2wd XLT.
The motor is rev happy and whenever I stomped it from a stop it quickly went to 7000 RPM before it shifted out of first gear. The little motor pulled really hard going from 0 to 60 miles per hour pretty quick. The truck rode very comfortably and I liked the slope of the hood and the view the F150 gave looking over the Hood better. I found it slightly easier to judge tight turns with the F150 than the wide and tall front end of the Silverado.
The truck was right at $29,000 which I think is a little high but it is a brand-new truck. The really sad thing is the same dealership offered me a brand-new Ecoboost max tow package 4 x 4 XLT with cloth interior for $37,000 very tempting, but MPG and being moderately capable is a priority for me. I would really like to stay around 25k (with my trade and Down Payment) these trucks are also available used in the high teens and low 20's...the used trucks are not really a viable option for the Pentastar Ram's and the 2014 4.3 GM trucks yet.
As far as comparing motors between the 4.3l and the 3.7l using the 2014 4.3L Chevrolet truck that I test drove earlier this year as a test bed. There's no doubt that the 4.3 has more torque low-end however once the Revs really picked up the 3.7L Ford definitely pulled harder. That may be because the rear end on the Ford had the 3.73 ratio.
As it stands for me right now
1) Ford F150 Supercrew 3.7
2) Chevy Silverado 4.3
I am open to the Ram, I just have to go test drive one. Based on my price range the EcoDiesel is pretty well out.
One of my good friends used a 1st gen to tow a hybrid and later a 5000 ish lb travel trailer for years. Recently upgraded to a Motorhome. He pulled all over the Eastern US. NEVER one problem.
All seems to be normal. 200 ain't nothing to worry about.
On edit, In your last post on this subject you kept talking about upgrading the TV.
You want a new truck, you are not satisfied with the current truck.
Upgrade my friend, that's what you want to do.
Prodigy brake controllerProdigy P2 $125 Shipped Prime 2-day or extra $4 for next day.
Equal-i-zer hitchEqual-i-zer 4-pt WDH with integrated sway control.
Statistically the % of owners of the $2000+ WDH are more satisfied than the $500 WDH who are more satisfied than the $300 hitch. I see no reason not to at least get the $500-ish WDH at the relative cost over the basic WDH with friction sway control.
Note: Moderator edit to fix links to products.
I'm would bet that statistically based on sales volume as the measure of customer satisfaction that the numbers skew towards the standard WD hitch.
In most campgrounds I go to I see sway bars and regular WD hitches on 7-8 out of 10 TT parked. The others have an integrated sway and WD design. Most of those tend to be the E2 by fast way or the one by reese that's basically the same.
Most people on RV.net seem to prefer the DC or the Equal-I-zer...the majority of TT haulers are not on RV.net. My experience with a properly set up standard WD hitch and two sway bars vs reese dual cam proved to me that from my seat...there is little to no difference. Everything being properly set up.
I'm all for safety...but all friction hitches are about the same in effectiveness.
Blue Ox sway pro and the Hensley twins are exceptions and are a significant step up from the friction hitches.
At first I was thinking that can't be a new 2500 Ram...but by the 18" tire size listed it has to be a 2014 right ?
So if the payload is 17xx and the Gvwr is 10k, that means the truck is 82xx? Wow, thanks about 1000# more than my 07 srw 3500 4x4 mega weighed.
My truck's payload is just over 3000#.
2007 Mega SRW 3500 G56 5.9 curb is listed as 7,391 and 48RE as 7,313. GVWR of 10,100.
2014 Mega 2500 G56 or 68RFE curb is listed as 8,094 with a GVWR of 10,000.
Where did that 703lbs come from? I wonder how much is frame/suspension changes.
That's a big difference for the same wheelbase and basically the same running gear.
What's interesting is that per the Ram website the only Mega Cabs in 2014 with a 1790 payload are either a Canada Laramie with a GVWR of 9,900 and a curb weight of 8,114 or a 5.7 Gas Longhorn with a 9,000 GVWR.
So if it is a Laramie Longhorn as the OP thought it's a 5.7 Hemi truck, not a Cummins. Thou the same truck in a Cummins only has a 1,850lb payload and a curb of 8,153.
If it was a Hemi truck Ram accidentally put a Cummins badge on it.
It was a Cummins Turbo Diesel Ram 2500 Mega Cab 4x4 loaded.
The Ram website is not very exact. There are discrepancies from the site for the exact VIN to the sticker on the door.
Goes to show all the door payload sticker nazis how ridiculous some of the ratings are.
Don't think I've ever looked at that sticker on Any truck for advice on how to pump up my tires or how much I can carry and now I know why.
BTW a Ram 2500 in any configuration will laugh at 1700lbs in the bed. That's just enough to smooth out the ride a bit!
Grit, I totally agree with you. I have personally seen these mega cab trucks pulling large fivers. Are they over payload? Yep....based on the payload sticker, but they are likely way under the tire and axle ratings, with some exceptions of course
Generally, people only realize there is a problem after they come on here and find out how bad their truck is supposed to perform. At that point they get twitchy and go upgrade happy and earn their WP badge.