Somewhat like DJ in that I probably have half a dozen or more GPS units around for the cars, truck and boat. I like the Garmin Nuvi series as well and just recently, last six months, bought a Nuvi 2557LMT, which as indicated has the lifetime maps feature. The 5 inch screen was one of the main selling features I wanted, as well as lane assist. None of them are completely up to date on the maps. However I have noticed that location seem important to how fast the map makers update their products. The last time I was in Boston to see my daughter, it even had the alley ways showing but get out into western Colorado and some of the secondary gravel roads are not shown. I suspect they are more concerned with, keeping the ones sold and used in the larger population areas updated first.
I like that Garmins in that they all tend to work much the same. Very little learning curve needed when buying a newer model, except for one strange one I have on my boat.
Decide what features you want on your GPS unit. I personally don't need Blue Tooth or the ability to look at photos on my GPS. But I do like to plug in a TOPO micro SD chip into the side slot so having that is important to me. Also the last time I did the map upgrade, I found it all wouldn't fit on the GPS on board memory so a micro SD chip had to be added, which for me meant I had to down load my Topo chip to a larger Micro SD chip so I would have memory space for the entire new map upload. Not a real problem but a bit of a pain to do.
Someone above mentioned a Host Class C as on their want list. Here is a new one at a dealer, that is now 6 model years out of current. Up until a couple of months back, they also had a 280 model, but it must have finally sold. Not sure why any dealer would keep a unit this long and I have been watching it for at least the last 4 years on their lot. I would think that most dealers would have put a fire sale price on it, and sold it years ago. Just the floor plan interest, if they have such on it, would have to be some serious dollars after 6 years.
While not a Class C, my 2011 Chevy one ton DRW pickup has what GMC refers to as 3 "unique" wheels on it. Took it in to the tire shop I have used for years to have the tires rotated. Was told about the 3 wheel situation and told the tires have to be taken off the rims/wheels and moved to a different wheel. He didn't recommend doing it as he said he would have to charge me $150 for the job and at 4 rotations a year, I would be spending about $600 a year. He told me to leave them alone, keep them balanced and use the $600 to buy a couple of new tires later if they wore out sooner.
Thought this was strange so talked to the Chevy service manager where I bought the truck and he confirmed the 3 unique wheels on my truck. He said the change was made during the 2011 model year but the 2011 owners manual didn't show this, but the 2012 manual does.
The inside rear wheels are the same, steel they be, the outer ones are the same, aluminum alloy and the front alloy ones have a different off set than the rears according to the service manager. Except for short distances, he advised me not to swap them around. The OEM spare tire also has a steel wheel, full sized tire, and can be used front or rear but not permanently recommended by the service manager.
I too question whether this change was really necessary or not. But it is there on my pickup but don't know if the Chevy RV chassis uses the same or not.
We had an early 80s model Mobil Traveler (MT) with a 350 Chevy engine in it. As I remember it was about 25 ft in length with bunk beds. We had two young daughters at the time so the house layout was great. However, even though it was and probably still is our favorite RV we have ever owned, it was a maintenance nightmare.
The seller, shall we say was less than honest. He was an Alaskan snowbird that wintered in Arizona and summered in Fairbanks. He would fly outside to Arizona, buy a used RV, live in it for the winter and drive it back to Fairbanks the next summer. Told me he had done this for a number of years. When I asked him if it used any oil on the trip up, he told me, some like most RVs do. Yeah, the first time I checked oil consumption it was a quart per 100 miles. Rather than buy oil by the 5 gallon buckets I had it checked out and found 3 of the 8 cylinders had cracks in the heads. So the first head change occurred in the fist few months of ownership.
The engine in our rig did not have good cooling for either the engine or the accessories mounted on the engine. We had to replace the alternator three times, the power steering pump, etc. but the big cost item was having to replace the heads (3) three different times. The rig had just over 20K miles on it when we purchased and finally got it to over 100K when we traded it in. Either the front clip had to be removed or the engine dropped down out of the frame to be able to change out the heads. The labor cost was very high but it wasn't a job I wanted to take on. We had to replace the Quadrajet carburetor once at a cost of over $650, back then. The heads were cracking between the valves and we were lucky a chunk of head metal didn't drop down in the piston hole while the engine was running. also had to have the transmission rebuilt twice, had to replace the furnace, the AC roof unit and the fridge. The fridge was obviously put in place prior to the roof being added so the dealer had to remove the passenger seat and front door to get the ole one out and new one in.
Plus the floor and the dog house got too hot to even have your feet on the floor when driving in warmer weather. I had to build an elevated insulated platform on the passenger side for my wife to put her feet. Never did solve the heat transfer problem.
The rig we had used a 4KW Generac and the low hours on it when we purchased it was a factor we liked. However after a few years of dealing with that generator, I could see why it was low hours as I wasn't able to keep it running any better than the first owner. LOL It was still under 200 hours when the odometer on the RV rolled over the 100K figure. Basically if there was a part on that MT that moved, I had to replace it, sometimes once and sometimes multiple times during the 80K miles we put on it.
Take a look at how you plan to use any older RV. If a 100 mile trip to the lake or favorite campground a dozen times in a summer is about it, then older ones are often a good buy. But if you plan to put lots of miles and nights on/in the RV, a newrer one, even if high mileage may be a better buy in the long run.
The memories we have of the old MT are great, as we made 6 round trips to/from Alaska to the lower 48 with it and I knew where some of the best and worst Chevy repair shops in the country, were located. LOL If the owner is a good handyman or woman, then the older ones can be a good hobby as well. But if you have to hire most of the repair work done at a shop, probably not a good buy for most people. My wife told me one time she thought we had probably spent $4,000 or more a year, for maintenance, on the MT the years we owned it and I suspect her figure, of costs, is low, but the family enjoyed the rig and the trips.
The odd size of wheel is also a problem and was becomming such by the time we got rid of the MT. Just a few shops stock a tire to fit a 16.5 in wheel, and the ones they still make are about double in cost and often have to be special ordered. So if the old rig still has the 16.5 inch wheels on it, be ready to spend about $2,000 to replace then with an appropriate sized 16 inch tire and wheel.
First I would try holding the round bar with a strap wrench. If it slips when trying to remove the nut, then wrap the round bar with some tape, like Gorilla tape with enough thicknesses to keep the pipe wrench teeth from going through the tape to damage the round bar. You may find that once you can hold the round bar from turning, you may still need to use an impact tool, either a manual one hit with a hammer or a pneumatic or electric one.
As a last resort, I keep a nut spliter tool, in my tool chest. You do have to replace the nut with a new one, but the old one, will come off, usually without damaging the threads on the bolt.
OP, I am not seeing anything to make me think the right tank in your photo is a horizontal tank. The left one is but the right one appears to just be a standard (old POV valve) vertical tank laid on it's side. If that is true then the left tank is delivering propane vapor to the regulator,as it should, but the vertical tank laid on it's side is delivering liquid propane to the regulator, not a safe situation at all, IMHO.
Horizontal and vertical tanks have the vapor pick up tube, inside the tank, located so it is always in the vapor, not the liquid propane. Some BBQ grills have a built in regulator and can safely operate off of tank pressure. I have seen then that have to have only low pressure propane fed to them as they don't have a built in regulator. Low pressure propane is normally about 1/2 PSI at the appliance. Tank pressure is very dependent on temperature, etc. and can go as high as 200 PSI.
For one of my standby generators here at the house, I run 10 PSI to it's demand regulator as it is a 13KW unit and 1/2 PSI is not enough propane supply.
I would highly recommend finding someone, that is knowledgeable about the use of propane and have them go over your system before you start adding hoses to it for a grill.
I think you have to send the Mayor of Flat Rock Alabama a little re-election donation to get added to the list. I need to get that sent in also, I guess. Remember, we have the best government in this country that money can buy. LOL
Give some thoughts to what you and your passengers, if any, want to do and see. This will in some ways determine when and where you need to be in Alaska to accomplish your goals. If your main interest is to photograph wildlife, especially new borns, then plan to be there in early summer, at some of the known good locations, such as the Chena Hot Springs road, the Alaska hwy area south of Watson Lake are just two of the many places i think of for this activity.
If you are planning to fish for salmon, then you have to be where the runs are in progress. Check something like the www.alaskaoutdoorjournal.com to see when the historic fish runs have occurred. They don't tend to vary too much from year to year.
Probably the majority of travelers go north on the Alaska hwy and then many of them return south on the Cassiar hwy. Some use the Alaska marine ferry system for part of one leg north or south. About the only way to see SE Alaska and coastal western Canada is by boat, ferry or cruise ship.
From south Florida, i figure about 10 driving days to Fairbanks and the same returning. However, we seldom drive straight through but will stop here and there for a few days and make it a two or three week trip to and from. Most trips we don't stop much on the way up or back in the lower 48 but keep a list of the places we wish to return and visit on a different trip.
Consider your age and health, as it can determine if one trip is all that is in your future or will there be multiple ones. It can be the trip of a lifetime for most, one that you can do over and over again. The far north country is so huge, there is no way to see it all in one lifetime, I have concluded. I tried for 25+ years to see it all and it just wasn't possible for me to do. Did my best to wear out 5 airplanes, a half dozen RVs and several boats but never saw over 3/4 of Alaska I would guess. Much of that was from the air at 3,000 to 10,000 feet. LOL
A new traveler, needs to decide what they want to see and do. This is often influenced by where you live or have lived. I notice people from the Pacific Northwest aren't as impressed with the mountains and water as I am, having grown up is southern Oklahoma. Have several priorities in your plans. If you are mainly going for the scenic photography and you hit a rainy summer like this past one, 2014, then you may have to fall back to doing more fishing, indoor type stuff, hiking in the rain and figure you will return again to do the outdoor photography, when the sun is shinning more. Or check the weather and go to a different part of the state or territory where the weather is more to your liking. Be flexible, I guess, is what I am trying to say.
The miles per dollar idea is a good one, IMHO. Worrying about the cost of such a trip and planning for the cost of the trip, are two different things to me. While I don't feel I worry about the costs associated with a trip to Alaska, I enjoy the trip much more if I feel I have a good handle on my expenses, and are staying within the envelop I have set prior to the trip.
I like to use a lot of "rules of thumb" calculations, probably going back to when I was an active pilot flying in rural Alaska, averaging between 3 and 5 flights a week for 17 years. So I consider distance in terms of hours, not miles, fuel used in terms of gallons per hour or pounds per hour, etc.
If you ask me how far it is from Whitehorse YT to Northway Alaska, it is 3 hours, which you can roughly convert over to about 300+ and change, miles. Most of the planes I flew in Alaska, averaged about 100 knots per hours. I budget for our trips to Alaska, in the basic categories, as every one else, fuel, food, vehicle maintenance, entertainment, emergencies contingent, etc. I know from past trips north, I was using about 1,000 gallons of diesel with our Dodge and truck camper which got about 15 mpg. But since then I have switched trucks and the current one gets about 13 mpg. So now I have to figure about 1,200 gallons of fuel. Then rough guess, what the average cost of diesel is going to be, and I have an estimate on my fuel costs. My 2004 trip cost for fuel, were in the area of $3,000usd and now with the increase of fuel prices and less miles per gallon, I am looking at double the fuel cost.
Some costs my wife and I have some control over, camping costs for one, boondocking or commercial campgrounds, entertainment, eating in or out as much, etc. So we try to keep our trip costs under $10,000 overall for the trip. About $7,000 more than staying home, when you remove food costs but we figure we spend about 10% more for food when traveling. So I am getting about 3.3 miles per dollar of fuel at $4 per gallon.
What makes us feel good about our trips is traveling on cash, not on credit. We keep a bank travel account set up, that I transfer money into each of the prior 24 months before we head to Alaska so that, close to the total cost, is in that account. I then run on a debit card for the most part till I get to Canada, where I switch over to more cash and some credit card purchases. Our debit cards will go either way. I tell the fuel pump it is a credit card and it goes on through without a pin number. Then when we get to a good wifi system, I will use my electronic bill pay, to pay off any credit card charges we have incurred.
It sure makes decisions easier to make for my wife and I, if we want to spend a certain amount of money or not, for something or some service. If we are considering somewhat expensive items, we will often chose to do one this trip, and save the other till the next trip. Since I am only 72 Y/O, I figure I have lots of time left, to do the others. LOL If I don't make it, I won't ever know anyways.
As Bill says, the size is of importance to some people. The largest DPs have fridges the size found in many homes or larger. But the down side to some, is that you have to have them plugged into electrical power, enough battery power and inverter power to run them during the driving day, or have an auto start generator that will start to recharge the batteries on board.
My truck camper has a three way fridge in it, propane, 12 volt or 120 volt. Down side is it is slow to cool, and small but I don't have much room in my TC anyways.
Our 5th wheel has a two way, propane and 120 volt fridge. It is a bit larger by about 2 cubic feet, but has the same drawbacks of being slower to cool. The residential style fridges cool quickly as they have a compressor which the propane ones don't have, being they are absorption types.
If a person plans to live in their rig or mainly camp in full hook up sites in campgrounds, the residential ones work very well. For boondocking, if you don't mind your diesel generator running at different times of the day and night to power your fridge, then they work as well for that.
I have been running RVs for 50 years now and have never had a fire in a fridge unit and all of mine have been the multi fuel source, gas or electric. So I wouldn't be the least concerned with a fire. But as with any use of propane or NG, you have to check for leaks on a regular basis, especially if you get a smell of the gas in or around your rig. Not saying a fire couldn't happen, but as a former fire fighter and arson investigator, I have never had to deal with a fire in an RV fridge.
It tends to be easier to get a residential fridge repaired, it seems. Many times when one of the RV multi fuel source fridges goes bad, it just gets replace at a high cost.
You will find several long pulls, no matter how you go. I like the route the skipper outlined as well. East on Hwy 160 over Wolf Creek Pass (10K + in altitude. to Monte Vista and turn north on Hwy 285 to Poncha Springs and Hwy 24 on into the Springs. You will go over Poncha Pass, 9,000+ and Wilkerson Pass on Hwy 24, at just over 9,000 as well. Not any low altitude passes east to west across Colorado but this one is safe for most drivers. Just don't expect to be able to hold highway speeds while pulling these passes and keep your speed under control on the downside as well, by using gearing and your exhaust brake if you have one.
You could also run across on Hwy 160 to Walsenburg and go north on Interstate 25. Not sure it would take any longer to do this route. When you get to Salida area, you can also go east on Hwy 50 into Pueblo and north on the Interstate. No matter which route you chose, you will have to go over some high passes.
We lived in Ouray, prior to moving here to the swamp country of Florida. Our route of choice out of Ouray, not Cortez as you are needing, was to Montrose, east on Hwy 50 to the Canon City area and cut up NE from Penrose on Hwy 115 to the Springs. Highway 24 from the Salida area is a much more scenic, IMHO, way to get to the Springs. You can run into a bit of traffic on 24 from Woodland into the Springs, at times, as Woodland has become a bedroom community of Colorado Springs. My wife grew up in the Springs and her family moved to Woodland, where she attended high school, so for old times sakes, we often have to drive through that area. LOL
There are many ways to cut across Colorado. Out of Cortez, you could take Hwy 145 north over Lizard Head, a 10,000 + pass, but a nice road with shoulders, in most places, go by Telluride to Placerville, cut east on Hwy 62 to Ridgway, north to Montrose on 550, then east on Hwy 50. This is my preferred route in winter time when the storm clouds are dumping white stuff everywhere.
The program that Camen and Joey are involved with is the delivery of new rentals to Anchorage. They get a greatly reduced rental price and the Anchorage rental agency gets their RV deliver directly from the factory in the Lower 48. They probably don't have a choice as to where to turn it in, it is in their contract.
A couple of springs back, ABC Rentals or GAH Rentals sent 150 new Class Cs to Alaska with this method. It is a win- win situation to me. When they get to Anchorage they turn in the RV and fly home. Some people rent for an extra week or so to stay longer. To me, 17 days will make for a great trip. Not as long as some can make, but it will give them a good idea of what to do on the next few trips they make to the north country. I can make it from south Florida to Fairbanks in 10 driving days, with a few stops along the way it works out to be about two weeks . From Iowa 17 days will give them a very nice trip. I have often said, I would fly to Alaska, just to spend a weekend, if I could afford it, which I can't. LOL
Several of the big RV rental agencies in Anchorage are also dealers, so they buy directly from the factory. The renters apply to take the new Class Cs north on a set departure date. They can rent all the basic items they need, such as pot and pans, linens, etc. Then at some time, the rental agency loads all the pots and pans, linens, etc in a truck and sends it back to the lower 48 for the next years renters to use. The rental agency will have people at the factory to go over the rigs with the people, explain all the working, how to handle any problems, etc. Folks leave out in assigned waves and the route they take north is, as I understand it, is up to the travelers, to a large degree.
Most of the renters will fly into the factory area. The rental agency furnishes transportation from the nearest airport to the factory to pick up the new rigs. They have the process figured out, from telling the renters where the nearest grocery stores are, to how to order pizza to be delivered to their RV, that first night.
Why ask such a question on the open forum? Only the moderator or the administrator are going to know the answer. Over the years I have sent several PMs to both, and have always gotten an answer back, not always the answer I wanted to hear, but I have always received a response in a reasonable amount of time.
Asking a question such as the OP asked, is also making a statement at the same time.
We actually have three sewer drains, for four tanks. The rear half bath for the slide out bunk room, a galley tank for the mid kitchen and the forward bath room. So when parked, I use a Y to connect the front main tanks to the galley tank with short 5 ft hoses, then a longer one to the dump location. I keep a long hose connected to the rear sink-toilet. To dump, I change which hose is stuck in the dump inlet.
Yes it is a pain, but we use the fifth wheel only for longer stays. The truck camper goes most trips for short stays, when we are traveling, as it has only one sewer outlet. On the 5th wheel, I carry about 50 or 60 ft of sewer hoses and many connectors.
In Florida, there is also the question of illegal aliens, in large numbers. Many will buy a low cost vehicle and never register it, as they don't have a permanent address or even a drivers license, issued here in the US or Canada. Most of these vehicles also don't have the required liability insurance. With all the laws concerning PC, (probable cause) for an officer to stop a vehicle, an expired tag, is considered an acceptable PC for a stop. No profiling is allowed these days, by any one other than the customs and other border officials.
Another issue that Florida seems to be getting concerned about are part year residents, voting here in person and in their old state, by absentee ballot. If they scan an out of state tag, and then check the voters registration lists and find the same owner on both. That person should have a problem IMHO.
Florida seems to have few if any concerns with out of state visitors driving on out of state or out of country tags, property owners or not, just so long as they don't try to claim homestead exemptions or vote in Florida and elsewhere.
Instead of using an extension, I have seen RVers extend the trailer tongue, to the needed length. Recently I was looking at a posted blog where a couple took their TC round trip from Michigan to Alaska, pulling an enclosed cargo trailer with a motorcycle in the trailer. He had the trailer tongue extended and said it all work fine for the trip.
I was using an extension for towing my Jeep 4 down behind my TC/truck but when I decided to add a Ready Brake System (a mechanical surge brake system) it was of a length, I didn't need the extension anymore. My truck does have a Class 5, 2 1/2 inch receiver, under bumper.
Extending the tongue on my boat trailer would be a very easy task, not perhaps too cheap to do, as it is 4 inch tubular aluminum but could be fabricated longer at any good metal shop in this area. As mentioned above, a dropped ball and a longer tongue may be worth considering for some TCers.
Sounds like the guy wasn't missing in the first place. Just wan't where someone thought he should be. Probably figured out what his US cell phone was going to cost him, to use in Canada, and he turned it off. LOL
The Timmy Ho's and Burger King merger was on the TV news last night. They were saying that Burger King will save about $50 million dollars a year on taxes by being headquartered in Canada, due to the corporate tax structure of both countries.
Wonder what they will call the new place? King Ho's? Timmy's Burger?
The same issues apply to Canadians that have enhanced drivers licenses from BC, Manitoba, Ontario and Quebec. Quebec is dropping their EDL and not issuing any after Sept 30, 2014. Current, Quebec EDLs, will be good till they expire. As mentioned above, the EDLs are good only for land and water entry into either country, no air.
A year or so back, our local paper here in Florida, had an article about a Canadian snowbird couple, that drove their car down here and crossed into the US on their provincial EDL. About mid way through the winter, they had an emergency situation develop, back home and needed to return to Canada quickly. But found out they couldn't buy a plane ticket, back into Canada, without a passport. The article stated they ended up flying to upstate New York, renting a car and driving across the border. It mentioned they both applied for a Canadian passport, while they were back home, before returning to Florida to finish out their stay.
I suspect the EDLs were created mainly for people that cross over and back, often, for work, shopping, to see family, to farm, etc. Passports just aren't that expensive in the long scheme of things, a bit of a hassle at times to get or renew but overall somewhat painless.
It is my understanding that if you cross into Canada on an EDL and get sick and need to be airlifted back to the US, for insurance coverage, you have a problem. If you have a passport, no problem. Now I have also been told if you do die, from your illness, while in Canada on an EDL, then the rule no longer applies, for them to ship your body back to the US by air. A very comforting thought, I am sure.