I have my jacks up. But what I do is put wood cribbing snug under the jack pads while the suspension is still aired up, then I dump the air bags. This way I keep the jacks retracted and not exposing the cylinder shafts, but I still take some of the weight off the tires.
I always store mine with blocks under the jacks and air system bled so that the jacks do not have to be extended. This minimizes loads on suspension and tires when stored. Jacks down is also a way many folks go.
Might have already posted this. On my older RV, I had HWH jacks with manual valve levers. I could gently retract the jacks.
On my newer rig, I have touch pad controls. The minute I hit the "store" button, they come down suddenly and hard. Am I missing something, or is this how they are supposed to work?
Yes, it is normal. HWH offers Velocity valves that slow the fluid to prevent sudden dropping. Doug
One of the first improvements I made to my bus was to order the velocity control valves from HWH. They were fairly easy to install but would depend on access to the reservoir/pump area. It works great and does not slow down the storing process by any noticable amount and completely eliminates the sudden drop experienced at the beginning of the store cycle.
Mine as originally equipted came down very suddenly and was not a pleasant experience. We don't hear this complaint often from owners, so I thought that the HWH had corrected this issue for later versions of the levelers.
Update, The Knusaga company is not in business anymore and the best I can determine, a company in MO took over their line, but no name of company yet. Found a couple more outlets for the entire mechanism (RV620) at roughly same price of $300.
So, on my drivers seat, I had a small worm gear drive go south and need to replace it. I contacted Villa, the mfg. and although they were very nice, they explained that they sell an assembled seat with some parts purchased from others. This is understandable, and I'm sure all do the same. To replace the gear box, they would sell the entire under carriage for $300. I asked for the supplier of the unit, which again they gave me. No complaints about service here, except I cannot seem to get a telephone number to work. Anybody have contact information for Knusaga Corp, in Michigan. I have telephone 810 798 8567, which is disconnected, and 810 798 2402 which gives a fax tone.
I was hoping the wires and connections would be labeled. Is there a schematic on the inside of the cover? You stated that you can start the engine with the SLIDE EXTENDED. I thought that was the point of the safety interlock----To NOT start the engine when the slide was extended. Was that a typo? Regardless, I would disengage the system to not affect the engine starting at all. Doug
No schematic. I can only start with the slide extended if the switch (override) is depressed. Sorry, if that was not clear.
As it currently stands, when the slide is in and I can not start, the only recourse is to depress the aforementioned switch. So until I find out why it fails to start with the slide in, I don't see how I can remove that switch from the circuit. If I knew where to look as to how it is inserted or had a schematic, maybe this would be an option. This issue is intermittent, that is, the fail to start with slide in only occurs once in about every 20 starts or so, but is still something I want to trouble shoot and fix if possible because this can't be normal. Said another way, whatever the mechanism is that tells the control the slide is in has a problem that I would like to fix. Like I said before, I've never been stranded, because pushing the switch always cures the fail to start.
That is VERY strange.
So if you boondock, and you want to start your engine for any reason, only way to do it is to pull the slide in first?
Keep us posted on what you find out, very curious.
I'll get that inside pic for you soon.
There you go, that is the point, the switch I referred to earlier allows you to start with the slide fully out, as in boon docking situation. Maybe others allow this automatically, but not mine, there is an interlock.
I'll try again since the basic question is still; does anyone know what is the normal method for detecting the position of the slide-out especially the IN position. From what I have already described, there is obviously a lock-out in play here that prevents starting when the control perceives a condition of slide out. Again, the slide is not out, in fact, it is in and manual locks are in place. I want to troubleshoot this issue and would like a place to start. I have opened the slide-out control box. Some relays, integrated circuit components, etc. I don't see any obvious adjustment pots. The control was made for HR by Todd Engineering, but a quick internet search shows no commercial product they sell for RV slide-outs. If nothing turns up here, I may try to contact them and see if anybody has a clue.
We did not start selling Monaco/HR products until 1998. BUT, I have NEVER seen any Monaco product have such a feature. I also have NEVER seen such a feature on the thousands of motorhomes (multitude of brands) I have worked on over the past 34 years and especially since Slideouts have become standard on almost all motorhomesin the past 25 years. What makes you believe your HR has such a feature? There is no good reason to have such a feature on a motorhome. If the slideout is extended and you attempt to drive OFF, then you are pretty stupid if you do not see that slideout in your side view mirrors:B I do believe there are a few brands that have such a feature, but I have never seen them. Where is this override switch located and are you positive that a previous owner did not install it? It does NOT make sense to have such a feature and then have an override switch that negates that feature. Doug
Firstly, the reason I came to the forum knowledge base was to find out whether there was knowledge concerning such systems and how or if it was adjustable. I do not know whether the previous owner (died) installed such an override switch or if it was a factory installed feature. The switch is located in the center console area ie if you pull the drawer out the momentary push button switch is concealed in the drawer cavity area. What I can tell you other than the previous description of the actions that occur is that if you unclamp the travel clamps, extend the slide, return the slide, reclamp the travel clamps, the problem goes away ie the engine starts immediately. I'm not trying to defeat this feature but only trying to adjust the false alarms that I'm dealing with, OK. You know, the use of such a interlock is not that stupid because IF the slide was not secure, for whatever reason, its not a bad idea to prevent movement (no engine start). Yeah its stupid to have that happen, but you've certainly seen worse, right!!!
My signature HR has a single slide out (LR & Kit. driver side). Occasionally, I have an issue with the engine start up, that is, there is a safety circuit that if it senses the slide is out, will not allow the engine start circuit to complete. BTW, the slide is not out, in fact it is in and travel clamps are in place when this occurs. Does anyone know whether this is a limit switch that needs adjustment and where its located? Or is the in/out position stop strictly a motor torque sensor and is it adjustable? Luckily, there is an override switch that I can depress that allows the start circuit to work, so I've never been stranded, but I would like to adjust this issue away, if I can.
So, based on what the Salt Lake techy said if the power steering still works fine, no increase in steering effort, you do not have a bad pump. The fan motor (actually a hydraulic motor) is not running but still turns, you might check the priority valve, I think that's what they call it. As I understand, it regulates the flow to the two devices since two systems run on the same hydraulics. If it is like mine, follow the pressure line from the hydraulic pump to a junction block with 3 or 4 lines into it, about 3 X 3 X 1 inch steel. Check with Salt Lake to determine the procedure to clean this valve, but in my case the regulator plunger was removed, cleaned with a solvent, then re-torqued back in place.
This is the procedure that Spartan ran me through to repair a overheating/lack of steering problem that I had a few years ago. As it turned out the pump was going bad and not capable of running both fan and steering at the same time, but they had me check the priority valve.
No plumber here either, but in my experience when removing older plastic plumbing fittings be sure to clean all the mating surfaces up not with abrasives but just 409 or some other good degreaser, apply a little Vaseline to the joints (inside and outside) and do use new slip seals. The seals are not very soft to begin with but depend on compression action to seal. After use for a while they get stiff, so new ones always are a good idea.
A vote for GS here. Recently I was considering some maintenance that required tools I just don't have and thought of a mobile RV service. I called GS roadside service and got a couple of names to check out from their list of recommended repair folks. Well, it turned out that one was a shop about 10 miles away. Discussed the job with the tech and decided the best alternative was to take it to them since they were very closed to me. Took it there, got the job done at a fair price and was very happy with theirs as well as GS service.
My '03 does not require any fuses to be pulled, in fact after going thru the procedure to shift into neutral, I turn the key to the lock position and remove the key. This does not lock the steering. Has worked for me for many, many miles.
Not reasonable at all. They are providing you with technical assistance (paying the person on the phone to find the PN you could not find on line), they probably have the part in inventory (which takes investment), and you want to beat them out of a sale? I call that unreasonable.
FYI -I spent 40 plus years in the parts business and our supplier's part numbers were always proprietary.
I know on my set-up it's neccessary to undo the exhaust pipe hanger for the generator and swing the pipe out of the way to get the hinged door all the way open. I have also found it better to remove the two screws that hold the door to the hinge and get that totally out of the way. Gives better access.
Go to the RV Chassis Parts web site and see for the 8.3C mechanical engine that there is a "Bracket, TPS" available for around $145. The pin that the sensor cable attaches to, via a slotted cable end, is part of this bracket. The pin on mine was nearly wore thru and gave erroneous info to the system ie low counts. The bracket is easy to replace from the passenger side access door to the engine, assuming your's is like mine. Also when assembling be sure to put a healthy dab of grease on the connection as there is no other provision to lube this junction and is the ultimate reason they fail. Other connections in the area have grease fitting type connections, but not this one, so lube it ocassionly.:( Yeah, the parts not that cheap, but I went this way rather than risk a makeshift solution to the problem.