try a logitech harmony. I use it for my home theater, I have about 10 remotes. This can control anything and even starts up my gas fireplace.
x2. And I also use it for starting our gas fireplace at home. if what you want to control is a IR remote harmony will have a extremely high chance of controlling it.
haven't lost ours. In reality in over 60+ years of camping starting with my folks when I was still in diapers, neither my folks, ourselves or my 3 brothers has ever had anything stolen when camping.
We aren't careless, but we don't take any extra ordinary precautions when camping either.
Is it possible, definitely, but my observation is that the vast majority of campers are honest and a helpful folks, much more so than the general population.
BTW we went with the portables since most of the time the trailer ends up under trees, so portables seemed the way to go. We have two 80W portable panels. leave the out during the day sometimes with a cable and lock.
That's what they are suppose to do...water collects on the slide awning and not on the slide roof.
Retract your slide about half way after a rain storm and the water will shed off the awning and be gone...
Slide awnings have extra material and are spring wound so that they can flex down with a water pool.
1) reach up with a broom handle under the awning and lift it a little to drain before retracting.
2) run the tongue jack up or down before retracting to let the water run off.
I don't bother doing anything till I'm ready to leave. then I do (1) or (2) above or just ratract it a foot or so and stop and then most of the water will drain off.
I don't use balls, noodles etc. because more than likely I'd forget they were on top then retract and squish them.
depends on the trailer layout. If the trailer as a seperate living/sleeping quarters the ducted air will get air to the bedroom through the ducts. if it is un ducted, all the air will exit the AC into the area around the AC and may not cool the bedroom very well.
If there really aren't seperate living/sleeping quarters it may not make as much difference.
Also, ducted air will feel a little less "drafty" IMHO. Most ducted unit will also let you open the main exit just like unducted air to rapidly cool the area around the AC if desired.
even if it only runs on 120V AC battery power solutions sells a very nice lithium ion battery pack and small inverter than will run the cpap for at least 3 nights w/o charging. and with the included charger you can recharge it during the day from a car or trailer battery. or only use the inverter they sell.
there systems are designed for cpap users, and they know there stuff and can answer most any question you have for your specific cpap machine. Give them a call.
I need a microwave oven that is compatable with the honda 2000i. The genset will not run my 1100 watt panosonic microwave even though I by pass the main power panel and plug it straight to the microwave.
I have a internal 4KW genset but would not prefer to use it.
What brand and wattage micowave will work with the honda 2000i wired though the main power panel?
thank you experts!
Our 1100 watt home microwave draws about 1600VA. That''s pretty much the limit for a honda 2000. You'd need to turn virtually everything else in the trailer off, including the charger. The panasonic inverter models all should run off the honda 2000. You would need to turn the power level down some on the 1100 watt model but since they actually vary the magentron output rather than cycling between 0 and 100% power you can run it off the honda 2000. In fact we run the panasonic 950w small inverter model off a 1000W sine wave inverter. Just set the power level to 50% or less and it runs fine. At 50% power it draws 850VA.
Many diesel tuners with multiple programs, have "tow" settings are close to stock.
And their higher HP settings are usually not recommended for towing.
There is also one out there that claims that it can not be traced or detected by a dealer if it is returned back to stock before returning it to the dealer for service.
If it modifies or replaces the factory ECM even if it returns the factory tune when removed it CAN be easily detected on later model GM's and they can/will do a search to verify that only factory ECM tunes were installed before authorizing a warranty repair.
But as you mention, many of the tuners either don't recomend or flatly state do NOT use the tunes when towing, or only recomend the lowest tune for towing.
My wife and I are heading to Glacier Nat Park in early September. I`m just wondering if having a set of tire chains is advisable? Thanks!!
Having grown up around Glacier, YES. especially by late septt chances of snow are pretty high. Now, personnally when I carry them, but unless it is critical we just stay parked till roads are clear again when towing. BTW many states will require chains on one trailer axle when you chain up the TV.
likelyhood of needing them low. Having them if needed-----priceless!
we go to glacier every year. There have been years when logan pass (going to the sun highway) has been closed for few days due to a snowstorm in late june or early July and closed for the season in early Sept just after labor day. course you can't tow over going to the sun anyway. Snow at higher elevations can happen suddenly in the park at higher elevations in the park or the passes getting to the park from the west.
It is slightly better to run a dedicated ground than a well done frame ground. If they salt the roads there, a ground to frame may corrode more easily over time.
a poor frame ground is bad news, but then so is a bad wire ground.
However, using good techniques and connections a good frame ground is much better than dedicated wires. In fact, I did a recent test of frame ground resistance vs and equal length of #3/0 welding cable. My frame ground had 1/3 the resistance of the #3/0 welding cable. With 100A going to the batteries when charging (4x T-125's) the current through the welding cable was a shade over 30A, so there was 70A going through the frame ground path.
Results will vary amongst trailers based on frame construction. If your frame is welded not bolted and reasonable size use the frame. if it is bolted construction then individual wires may be better. Frame has much larger cross sectional area and multiple paths even though the resistance/cross sectional area for the frame is about 5X that of equivalent copper cross sectional area.
for my frame grounds I drill and tap a hole then get a square washer the same thread size, grind down through the paint/powder coat. tighten the nut down with a bolt and then weld the nut to the frame. Then use copper paste on the threads and lock washer of the bolt. for heavy wire I use a 5/8" square nut, smaller sizes for smaller gauge. heavy wires crimped with a tin plated lug and attached using a hydraulic hex crimper tool, then sealed with adhesive lined heat shrink.
If you aren't drawing high currents, it probably doesn't matter much either way.
I bought 28 "48SMD LED Light panels)to convert the 12 Volt lights to LEDs. So far I have converted two florescent fixtures, removing all the florescent components, circuit board, etc., and sticking the LED panels to the fixture housing and then replacing the fixture lens cover.
Everything works fine except that the LEDs are giving off a great deal of heat. I thought that the LEDs would be extremely efficient since all the consumed energy converts to light, not heat. That does not appear to be the case as there is a lot of heat being produced. Removing the lens cover from one of the fixtures I cannot keep my hand on the 48 LED panel because it is too hot.
I bought these LEDs on E-Bay for $2.75 each. Are these just cheap (crummy) LEDs or are they supposed to be that hot? At this point I'm not sure I want to convert the rest of my fixtures.
Thanks in advance for whatever comments or suggestions you might offer me.
First, LED's are more efficient than incandescent lights but still VERY VERY inefficient, on the order of 15% of the energy is converted to visible light, the rest is heat. (incandesent lights are on the order of 1% efficient on light conversion) So, they will get warm. Second, many cheap LED arrays, use simple dropping resistors to set the voltage. Good as long as the voltage is constant. But in an RV when the charger is on, voltage can be as high as 14.6V, or as low as 11.5V with no charger and low batteries. These cheaper arrays are designed for a nominal 12V, 14.6 really increases the power and heat. enought that I've had the LED's get hot enough to melt the solder at 14.6V. Solution is to buy quality units that are regulated to supply a constant current to the LED's. Then they are warm to the touch and will last.
It's not the reverse polarity fuses. It the positive line fuse coming off of the battery post.
It doesn't blow all the time, but it has blown 4 times now. It's only rated for 30 amps and the battery is dead. If the PDI does charge at it's full current output of 45 amps, that's what the problem is but both Jaycos I've had came with 30 amp battery post fuses.
you need at least 50A, preferrably a 60A fuse to the battery. The PD can easily give you the full 45A to the battery, and that will blow the 30A fuse. Also make sure the wiring between the converter and battery is rated for 50A,( #8 wire at a minimum)
They are trying to market their "o3b®" system the same way Motorola® tried to market their "Iridium®" system.
$2,000 to $3,000 for a telephone and $5 per minute for talk time won't fly.
I recently did some checking, Iridium prices are now down to about $500 for an older model phone and $2/minute if you buy a prepaid 1 yr 250 minute card.
But, I doubt I'd need more than 30 minutes/year, so yup, still pretty spendy. I'll stick with my spot connect for sending messages, just wish it would also recieve messages.
also, sat phones are not a cure all and something that will always get you a connection. In some respects they have more limitations than cell service.
1) you have to have basically a clear view of a sat. Iridium LEOS sat are pretty good for that, Globalstar GEOS sat. have much worse coverage and don't go real far north or south, since the sat are all stationary above the equator, nor many places at sea. At least with iridium if you don't have a sat in view, waiting a short period of time will have one fly overhead since they are covering the globe in a web and not stationary. Glad to see this company is also using LEO sat. However it takes a lot of them to give total coverage.
2) you can't have much of an obstruction, even inside buildings or in a dense metro area sat phones often don't get a signal. Deep canyons, or lots of tree cover are other issues.
I have friends with iridium sat phones, probably the best overall coverage and there are places with cell coverage and no sat phone (no big deal), sat phone coverage and no cell (again, it works) but also been a fair number of places where neither cell nor sat phone can get a signal.
none of the current sat phone providers have anything resembling acceptable or affordable data rates, so if someone offered that, even with potential reception issues, that would be a big step forward.
Garmin website indicates 2-3 weeks for delivery if you order from Garmin.
they also show a wireless backup camera with a 45' range as an accessory. If so, and if it really works at 45' that would be nice. The wireless backup cameras I've tried have been useless on a trailer, very limited range.
Just wondering if anyone has tried installing performance chips in there TV for better performance when towing. I know very little about them but have been reading some online about performance modifications for engines. My specific engine is a 4.6l in an F150 4x4 3.73gears . It has a towing package and tows my 3050lb (empty) camper fine, but a little more bang is better if it is not too expensive. Some of the more expensive chips have dash mounted displays which would seem to be helpful in monitoring the engine / trans etc. Edge is one brand I read about. runs about 300-350.00. Just wondering if anyone had tried such a thing.
mfg have started getting wise to performance tuning and warranty claims. My son's new (2013) ford f250 work truck has a sticker under the hood above the radiator that basically says installation of any performance enhancing devices that are not CARB approved will result in warrany exclusion for any failures. See your owners manual for further warranty exclusions.
Since they specifically state that exclusion you won't be able to fall back on MM warranty act to get coverage either since MM says mfg can set exclusions on warranty coverage for aftermarket parts if it is called out in the warranty.
Now try finding a tuner that has a CARB approval number!
Now, if your out of warranty, your on your own anyway.
I hate generators, but I have a 1500w Champion, think I paid about $250 for it a few years ago. We use it to charge our battery and to run our drip coffee pot. Even running it a couple of hours during the day, it does not fully charge our battery, so the battery gets weaker and weaker and it won't last all nite. The gen is quite loud and I'm embarrased to run it. Wish I could afford a Honda, but that's not possible with the gas prices, it takes most of our money just to get to the campground.
what converter do you have??? Reason I ask is that the common WFCO converter isn't known for being a very good charger. They seldom go into the bulk charging mode so your left with only charging at 10-15 amps instead of the claimed 55A or so. takes a LONG LONG time to charge the batteries that way.
then two hours of charging will get you a long way towards a full charge.
same thing on many older trailers with a fixed voltage charger at 13.6V. One option is to buy a Black and Decker 40A Vector battery charger and use it. Makes a world of difference. Or change the existing converter to a newer PD or Iota unit.
if you have a quality converter that will output 40+ amps, you'll likely find that a 1000-1500W inverter will overload when the batteries are deeply discharged. Converters draw lots more current than one would first guess. As an example, a PD 65A converter draws close to 13A @120V. My advice buy a honda or yamaha 2000W. cost isn't much more than the 1000W, noise level is virtually the same, and you won't risk overloading the generator.
If your converter is in the 45A range then a 1500W would probably work.
40A at 12 V is only 480W. Try again.
your negleting the conversion efficiency and the poor power factor correction and it it's 12V, it's 14.6
so 14.6x40= 580 watts
at 80% effiency thats (580/.8) now we are at 725watts.
now take the typical iota and PD power factor of .7 (725/.7)= 1035VA
so your pushing it with a 1000W generator, since it is VA they care about not watts in most inverter generators.
In reality, a PD 45A converter will draw between 1000 and 1100VA at full output, I know I've verified it. a PD65A converter draws 1300+VA at full output.
So a 40-45A typical converter is often marginal on a 1000W generator, and from experience of fellow campers will usually cause a honda 1000 to overload initally unless you kick it out of boost mode. High temp or high altitude make it worse Given that the honda is rated at about 800 or 900VA continous.
Now, if you have the more recent and common WFCO 55A or bigger converter, run it on whatever you have, more than likely it will never go into bulk mode, so it stays at 13.6 volts at 15A or so and won't draw very much current. Course it will take much longer to charge the batteries.
Silicone sealer (RTV). Put a dab on the back of the panel (right on the 3-M tape is fine), and stick in the appropriate position in the receptacle. Take a folded paper towel or something, and put between the cover lens and the panel to hold the panel in position (OBVIOUSLY don't turn the light on while the paper/whatever is between the panel and the lens), and snap the cover lens in place. After a few hours, the RTV will be cured, and the LED will stick in place. Remove the paper. I've done 10 LED's in my RV this way, and it works EVERY TIME.
x2, or just pop out the metal reflector, and use rtv to stick it down while on it is on a workbench.
BTW, many of the ebay chinese arrays don't appear to be using the real and correct VHB from 3M and second, if they are on when the converter is in bulk charging mode (14.6V) and are un regulated, they arrays get to hot and are at a LED junction temp that can lead to premature failure of the LED's. Been there, done that. We dry camp a lot and my first ones did as you've seen, and the LED's gradually got dimmer and dimmer.
switched to current regulated arrays and not only are they much brighter than the ebay units I had, but they work and stay bright.
I have a 1999 Four Winds TT. Recently I noticed the battery getting very hot when plugged into a shoreline. I checked the voltage at the battery with the battery removed and the regulator is cranking out 17.8 volts. I know it should be in the 12.5-13.2 volt range. Is there a way to adjust the output or will I need to replace this one?
Thanks for any feedback.
what's the voltage with the battery installed? Installed you should be in the 13.2-13.6V range if the battery is fully charged.
Forgot which manufacturer I have on our present rig, but I suggest you pay the extra $$$ and get the model with the metal wrap. When rolled up, this will protect the topper material from being torn, scuffed or abraded by branches and limbs in tight sites and overhanging trees on narrow streets.
We have had both..the metal wrap ones that we have now are worth it.
x2 on the ones that roll into the metal canister. That's what we have stay clean, look nice, protected from sun, wind etc. BTW ours are dometic.