Eternabond probably wasn't in existence when Doug learned how to repair roofs. I doubt EB on a roof spot will diminish the value at all and if installed correctly, is probably stronger than the roof material. Get with the times Doug, EB is the new way to fix things and is cheaper than owners having to pay guys like you hundreds of dollars to do it the old way.
I use Eternabond. BUT, there is a RIGHT way and a WRONG way to do repairs. Yes, Eternabond was not around 34 years ago. But, it is NOT a wonder patch. So, YOU would be happy if your new car got a bad scratch on the paint and the dealer just either dabbled a touch up paint on it or put a similar colored patch of tape to cover it???? IF ANY of you went up on a roof and saw a bunch of Eternabond all over the scrapes and holes the owner caused, you would be happy to purchase that RV??? What do you think a Dealer does on a potential used trade in RV when he sees Eternabond patches on the roof???? What do you think the potential BUYER will think when he sees Eternabond patched on the roof? Insurance companies PAY to replace the complete roof just from one tear or hole, NOT just state "Eternabond it". Now, no insurance, then yes, Eternabond it. Doug
X2 what Doug said (or is that X3 ;) )
ET to me looks like junk, and I would steer clear of the rig unless the price was right.
me to, and I'd be clear no matter what the price. As I mentioned in a previous post I ended up with a tear in the roof from a branch. Insurance paid (less deductible) to replace the entire roof. In fact, in most states they are required to pay for a complete replacement since they law states it must be repaired to "pre loss conditions".
And it would be very difficult to tell mine had ever been replaced, dealer did a fantastic replacement job.
The other thing working against us in trailers is the heat loss rate relationship to square feet of living space.
regardless of how well insulated a trailer is, it will loose (or gain) heat faster per sq ft than a stick built house. The reason is that heat is lost/gained through the walls/floor etc. and doubling the square feet of living space doesn't double the wall area, it goes up by far less. As an example, I did a calculation and our 2600square ft S& B house has only a little over 3x the wall/floor/ceiling area of our 240 square ft trailer. 10x the square ft, but only 3x the wall area. Add in the trailer lower insulation, the higher window to wall area etc. and it's all against a trailer. Explains why it takes a 35KBTU furnace in a trailer running pretty constant vs. a 80K BTU furnace in 10x bigger S&B house to keep the same temp. Or what seems like a pretty big AC unit compared to a S&B house to keep it cool.
I'd bet that any sensible RV repair will do exactly as I said, either w/ a touch eternabond, or a spot of Dicor.
But whatever, just don't come cryin back here after they send some monkey up there w/ a power driver and he strips 1/2 the screws out, and then when they fall out, he can go back there again, a different monkey this time will run longer screws,....right into something that will make this staple problem seem like no problem at all. I've had it all happen,......even had my warranty bought from me for $500, only because they even admitted they couldn't fix nothing right !
Remember the recent screw run into the FWT ? That small change compared to what very commonly happens. Yep, I hate shops !
There definitely are some bad shops around, sounds like you have foud at least one of them. But not all shops are bad. The dealer we bought our trailer from has IMHO a fantastic shop with highly qualified workers. Our roof ended up needing repair after a run in with tree branches. Insurance paid for a new roof minus deductible. Shop foreman went through with me the replacement process they use, and when I got it back it looked like new. I'd trust our dealer with any work.
On the other hand, there is another dealer down the road that is just the opposite. One to stay away from.
Ok, I will answer, Dryer outlets come in two flavors and one of them can be wired two different ways.
The two flavors are 3 and 4 wire
Now if it's a 3 wire the answer on converting ins likely NO, you will really need to pull new 4-wire feed line to do it properly and safely.
If it's a 4 wire then you need to look at the wires.
There are 4 wires, One white, and either a black and a red, or two blacks, and a bare or green.
Forget the bare/green for the momnent.
Are the black, red and white wires ALL THE SAME SIZE.
If so, then you can convert.
yes, the 110/220V appliance wiring is a real can o worms!!
A wide variety of NEC code changes over the years has really made it a quagmire IMHO.
The "3 wire" dryer plug systems still have two 120V legs and a neutral, just like 3 wire ovens and stoves of the same era. The motor and controls run off one leg at 120V. The heating element across the two legs for 240V.
There is also a neutral/"ground", but in "days of old" around WWII, NEC allowed neutral and ground to be tied together at the appliance plug. Ergo, no seperate ground available, and therfore no seperate ground back to the panel. (Or that's what the folklore is anyway) Was comon and per NEC code at least through the 80's in the US for dryers, ovens, stoves etc.
So, a 3 wire may or may not be adaptable. Is it really a 3 wire or a 4 wire? with ground in the box, but not at the outlet.
One BIG issue is that as you point out, the neutral
in these old 3 wire systems (and some 4 wire as well)neutral was often NOT the same guage, it was smaller. The heater element, which was the 30, or 50A draw is across the two hot legs, so no current flows in the neutral from that load. The motor and control circuit doesn't draw near as much current, so in these old systems any neutral or ground wire was often a smaller guage.
I think it was sometime in the late 80s' early 90's that NEC code changed and now requires a 4 wire system (two hot legs, neutral and ground) for dryers, ovens, stoves for new construction or remodel.
You'll have 240V across the two hot legs, 120v from either leg to neutral, and a ground. Same as the configuration of a 50A RV. But for an RV the neutral must be the same size wire as either hot leg. RV's have lots of 120V stuff and often little or no 240V stuff, so current flow is from each 120V hot leg to the load and back through the neutral to the panel. depending on the load balance in the trailer between the two hot legs, you could end up with anywhere from 0 to 50A in the neutral leg.
And to add to the mess, often the 3 wire setup was aluminum wire, which requires special recepticals that are rated for connection to aluminum wire.
Don't know if Aluminum is still common or allowed on the 4 wire dryer, oven, stove or not. But if that's what you have on a 4 wire system, make sure you use the proper receptical.
When we remodeled and I switched the dryer, stove, oven to 4 wire copper.
so.... IMHO unless you really know wiring, best left to an electrician.
How many folks have been able to get the brakes set such that they can get at or close to lockup??
Reason I ask, is that on both my trailers, I can get the electric brakes to slow the combo down, but certainly well shy of lockup. That's after adjusting the brakes to the point just shy of dragging, upgrading the wiring to #12 etc. with a prodigy controller.
They will lock on gravel, but not on dry pavement. And if activated at a stop, it takes quite a bit of throttle to get moving, can tell they are definitely engaged.
I was looking for one this summer for a friend. Couldn't find the 40A unit anywhere, best I could tell it had been discontinued. There were some of the smaller units available, 10A??? But that wasn't what he was looking for.
It's a shame if it is gone for good, IMHO a very good bang for the buck. It plus HF manual one is all you need.
If anyone finds a source please post it.
Luckily, I bought one a year or so ago.
So BFL don't let yours go up in smoke!!!
I just busted out my EU2000i for this thread. I haven't run it in 8 months. Warmed it up and started the dometic 13,500 brisk air circa 1999 and it fired right up with a small dip in rpms. Then cycled it off and put it on econo mode and turned AC back on. Took about 1-1.5 sec of throttle up and then ran fine.
After the AC was running I switched to econo mode on gen and it only needed about 1/2 to 3/5 throttle to run the AC on high.
Of course the temp was 75 and at 1400 ft and will probably use more power at 100+ degrees.
Btw, no hard start cap on my unit till it comes in the mail tomorrow.
My honda 2000 will start my coleman just fine at 75-80F, even in eco mode. But it won't when it get's into the 90's. But the brisk air is known for being easier to start than the colemans. However, the real test is above 90 and above about 2,000ft.
I never stay in a park. Always in the forest or out in the desert. Think I'll get a deck mount PD 60A and wire it into my wfco panel. I have planty of room in the back. I'll remove the wfco conv unit to allow good air into the box. Opinions please.
I mounted a PD60A in my pass through, only a few feet away from the battery bank. Gives the max current and will keep it in bulk mode as long as possible. If your WFCO is very close to the battery bank, not an issue, but the closer to the batteries the better off you will be for holding max charging current.
IMHO the 60A is a nice compromise. It's about the biggest non PF corrected converter you can easily run off a 2000W inverter generator. Anything bigger that isn't PF corrected can be problematic, may run up against the max VA for the 2000VA. generators. Don't recall exactly but I think my PD60A draws about 1400VA at max current output.
Looking at 3 different converter manufacturers surge current limit resistance:
Parallax: 2 ohm
Progressive Dynamics: 1 ohm
Iota: No thermistor, ac source resistance and converter input resistance is adequate.
None of these are failing! Their surge current limit is perfect in protecting all parts.
Tell me again why do you want 5 ohm?
without schematics it's hard to determine how input current is limited in each design.
The PD and Iota are not power factor corrected, the boondocker is. The PD and Iota have lower max output current.
And, there are multiple ways to limit inrush current in a design, an NTC thermistor is just one very common method, but not the only way by any means.
Kinda like saying since my mercedes needs only a small battery, no reason to use two big ones in my duramax, just put one small one in and it should work fine.
I believe (course your future use may prove me wrong, but I'll say it anyway) that if you use the part proposed by powermax and "change" your use scenerio to the following that your failures will go away.
a) Have the converter off for 3 minutes minimum
b) connect the battery(s) to the converter
c) power on the converter
and your failure will go away.
With a battery connected at power on, the input caps charge, the output circuit starts a ramp up towards 12V. At some point in time the output voltage is above the battery voltage and it starts to supply charging current, but it won't supply 100A instantly, it will ramp current up as the control loop keeps the output voltage rising. How long? don't know. Depends on how it was designed, may take fractions of a second, may take a few seconds till it can supply the full 100A. But the control circuit determines that. And thats likely how it was tested.
As a result input current stays in check and rises predictably till it supplies the needed current to sustain output.
In your previous case as I understand it,
The discharged battery connected to the converter that had no load on it and a voltage in the 15 range with a battery voltage in the low 12V range that looks almost like short circuit. This likely caused a very rapid discharge to the input caps, the ouput voltage drops way down, feedback circuit goes into fits trying to keep the output voltage up, may even oscillate or go in and out of current limit for a while and it takes a sustained high current draw, maybe well in excess of the nominal 15A for a while (seconds?) till the output recovers.
And the current WFCO is certainly much quieter than the PD replacement
What ??? I've had 2 PD for 13 yrs total, and I never heard either of them. And it ain't because I'm very far away from it, actually I can see it. And it ain't cuz I never have it maxed out either. Maybe cuz I bought it on ebay, and the fans not working.:(
All i can say is that the PD drop in replacement for my WFCO 55A has much more fan noise than the WFCO does. However, it does go into bulk mode when it should, that's the advantage for me.
I wouldn't call the fan noise objectinable, it's just noisier.
I've put PD replacements in a few other folk's WFCO and they made the same comment. Fan is noisier.
The reason for looking at the smaller thermistor is because it has no, or very little ceramic material surrounding it. The thermistor that we're dealing with has a time constant of 134 s. It's slower due to the attached mass. Still, the small bead thermistor has a sizable time constant.
I could go on with this discussion, but it's really a moot point that we're arguing. The turn-on surge current is not the problem! Regardless if we're using a 2 ohm or 5 ohm device, the energy dissipated in the thermistor is only 35J. The part fails at 1200J. It isn't failing during turn-on. Your argument that the 5 ohm part is better during turn-on is not valid. That is not the problem.
the 134 second time constant is how long it takes to COOL to 50% of initial resistance with no current flow in free air. I has a very limited relationship to how fast the thermistor heats up. that is an entirely different time constant and is dependent on current and the mw/C thermal impedance. Proper choice of thermistor and it will heat up to the near 200c expected operating temperature in way less than 134seconds. Probably in seconds or less.
PD and powermax make direct replacements for current WFCO assemblies, don't know if it will fit yours, but Randy at Best converter will let you know if you give him the WFCO model number.
If you seldom boondock, another alternative is to just replace the existing WFCO supply with another WFCO. My experience is that the WFCO's are reliable, very comparable to PD. The big downside is if you dry camp, the current 55A model is prone to not going into bulk charging mode so it takes forever to get the battery charged. But if you don't boondock, not as much an issue.
And the current WFCO is certainly much quieter than the PD replacement.
By all chassis I was referring to all of an individual vehicle's systems not all vehicles. My point is that there is nothing that is going to fulfill the OPs needs for around $100.00. And for Westend, I worked for BMW for 30 years of my 38 year career, the last 8 as an independent, and there are a few good diagnostic tools available if you have the where with all to purchase them.
I try to get by with an OBDII reader and my wits. I do have the Bentley Manuals and they lay a lot of it out there. I would like to reset the indicator light for the airbag and my DSC is also not engaged. The latter may be due to a failed sensor on one of the axle ends.
I'm not looking into getting into the trade ao I may just take it into the shop to look at these two things. Also, not trying to make it into a new vehicle, it's an '01 530 with 165K on the clock so value is diminishing fast.
you might try an alldata subscription. Not that expensive, and IMHO they provide way way way more troubleshooting info on a specific vehicle than bentley et.al. manuals. You may not even need a code reader to solve your problems, they may have info on how to reset.
Just let me know when you guys have figured out the reset on my BMW airbag system. As far as I know, the airbag check light needs to be reset with a mfg's proprietary reset tool. Some shops have these reset tools and all dealers have them.
I removed a side airbag to repair a window regulator and now drive with the light on.
you might check one of the BWM forums. On my mercedes, it's a similar situation, service interval and airbag need a special tool. and I was able to buy a tool on ebay for about $50 that will reset the service interval along with the airbag. I use it to reset the service interval since I do my own service. Haven't had to use it on the airbag.
I have CarMD and it didn't pick up any codes so I'm also working up the food chain to something better. I do have a couple of shops I trust to do the check but if there's a reasonably priced reader ($100+/-) out there that would do the job I'd probably upgrade to it.
have a scanguageII, sold as a mpg and other data display that also reads thrown codes or pending codes. Also for different vehicles it can query for other data.
However, while I've used it to pull codes for myself and others on a wide variety of vehicles and always had it give the data needed, I don't know if it will pull airbag related codes for you.
Not as good as the SW based tool I also use, but if you know someone that has one you can give it a try.
It really does depend on the specific vehicle. Using my Sprinter chassis as an example, there are "zillions" of codes from every computer in the vehicle that can be accessed via the OBD port, but Mercedes has done an effective job of keeping the chassis-specific codes a secret. There are only a few several thousand $ devices that can read the proprietary codes. You'd probably have better luck on a forum dedicated to the chassis type, rather than an RV forum.
Most aftermarket OBD readers have very limited amount of codes they are able to "read". Most of those codes which CAN be read will be for the ENGINE ONLY.
OBDII ports do have ALL codes available but they do not typically release what all the codes mean.
Reading any other codes including transmission and body codes WILL require a very, very expensive reader from the manufacturer of the vehicle.
Your best bet is to take to your vehicle manufacturers dealer, pay the ransom money to have them hook it up to your vehicle ($100-$200?)..
THE DEALER is the ONLY reliable way of getting the body codes read CORRECTLY.
while I do agree than many "generic" code readers limit the readout to ECM stuff, reading other stuff may or may not be difficult. I've queried many non ecm related codes on my silverado, including many transmission and BCM codes as well, Things like fuel level and any transmission status info as well. and on my mercedes I can get virtually all the codes through the obdII port with simple available SW. That includes things like checking the headrest motors, door lock functions, seat position, seat heater operation, all the AC codes including reading AC pressure.
And alldata often has a very comprehensive and extensive list of codes, not just ECM but body, transmission, etc. along with the recomended diagnostic tree if you need to decipher codes.
However, resetting safety related codes, such as air bag can be very very difficult to do. As you might expect, from a liability standpoint the mfg don't want things like that to be reset without verifying that whatever cause the code to be set is fixed and there are no related issues.
For example on my mercedes, I can easily reset virtually all the codes, except a few "safety" ones, like the airbag. that takes a unique tool to reset.
That IS why it is OFTEN BETTER just to go to the dealer in the FIRST PLACE.
Even if you are able to pull and read the codes, not all codes are the same or result in the same repair. ONLY the manufacturer knows for sure.
As far as resetting codes, there are many that simply can not be reset without the OEM "tools" and it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and even then from day to day of manufacture.
Some codes do not need reset, just need a certain amount of "cycles" once the bad part is replaced or the trouble has corrected its self (many emission related codes will turn the CEL off after several successful drive cycles once the sensor is back in operating parameters).
The OP has a Airbag fault, this can caused by errors with the airbags, crash sensors, computer, faulty USED replacement bags (yep, folks DO resell BAD used airbags which had been fired and repacked) or even a bad (or wrong) airbag light on the dash.
With the complexity of todays vehicle airbag systems (my newest vehicle has not only front airbags but side bags in the seats and airbag side curtains in the roof, all told six airbags that would be a lot of money and time to find a bad one) sometimes it is cheaper, quicker just to pay the dough at the dealer...
If your comfortable going to a dealer, fine, but the dealer is certainly NOT the only alternative. The mfg isn't the "only one that knows for sure". Show me a code that you can read out that doesn't show up in alldata for the specific vehicle configuration along with the mfgs diagonstic tree. There may be a very few, but the vast vast majority are public. And any good independent shop has access to the same information, and in most cases the same diagnostic tools and SW the dealer has access to.
I've had codes thrown in cars since the check engine light first showed up in cars in the 80's. I've never had an occasion where I wasn't able to easily pull up the fault code(s), determine what the fault indicator was for, find a diagnostic tree for isolating the fault, fix the problem and clear the code and not have the code reappear. Yes,there are cases where the code won't clear till a specific drive cycle occurs without a failure. And there are airbag and a maybe a few other safety related codes that may take a trip to the dealer or repair shop to clear after the fault has been fixed.
And in every case, the fault code and diagnostic tree quickly isolated the fault to a very specific part in the system.
Never once have had to go to a dealer.
My local chevy dealer preys on service customers and is not a reliable place to get work done (I'm a Mechanical Engineer, I've taken vehicles to good independent shops after the dealer diagnosis and I have stories). I'm retired and a widower (no one to provide transport to the nearest alternate dealer who is 20 miles away in the next town) so my effort is to resolve this some way other than going to the local dealer. I have an AllData subscription on this vehicle.
If you have alldata, I'd go to a independent service shop and ask them how much $$ to pull the codes for you. Then pull up alldata and see what it shows. Once you get that far, you'll probably know if you can fix it, if it will go away after so many engine cycles if the fault doesn't re appear, or if you need someone to fix it.
I see no reason with any "check" lights to rely on a dealer if you (a) have some mechanical ability, (b) have a way to get the code and (c) have access to all data to do a diagnosis.