We had NG (from GS) and while their rates were sufficient, I happened to get a ticket (first one in over 20 years) and they almost tripled my rate.
I then researched and got 10 (yes, 10) quotes from just about everyone I could think of (including Progressive) for our four cars and the motor home. Believe it or not, Geico was the lowest and was even lower than my previous NG rate before the ticket.
Of course, next year they will probably raise my rate and I'll have to do it all over again. Point is, check "MANY" different companies for the lowest. You'll be surprised how different they will be.
Yours must be different than ours. We just deflate the mattress and then it folds up with the sofa bed. Really simple.
Do you know if yours can be done this way. If not, I think I would instruct the kids (using the term lightly) on how to put everything away.
There is such a chart but it is useless.
Posted By: Turtle n Peeps on 10/05/15 07:56am
No there is no chart for what you are trying to do.
Ahhh.. I think you two need to have a conversation.
OP... as others mentioned... for 1/2 ton (and sometimes even 3/4 tons) tow vehicles, the vehicle's payload capacity is what will be maxed out first. You can pretty much forget the "tow capacity" as typically it is just the manufacture's figure that is based upon a trailer with NO tongue weight. Most travel trailers will be an approximate 12% of the trailer's "loaded" weight which is usually somewhere inbetween the dry tongue weight and its GVWR.
It's recommended that if you haven't purchased either the TT or the TV, to purchase the TT first and then match up the TV so that it can pull the TT without being closer than 80% of the TV's max ratings.
Hope this helps and good luck
A lot depends upon the questions asked above. If you're gonna travel a lot, probably a mh is the better way to go.
What in the world do you need a roll around tool chest for? I do carry a good assortment of tools with me, but all can easily fit into a small chest that I can pick up. It's a common error for people to want to take much more with them than is really necessary. Most items, when needed, can be purchased.
Another food for thought is the type of vehicle you want to drive when not in your rv. Most times, driving a 1-ton dually around in a crowded city can be a little uncomfortable.
There have been many posts regarding mh v.s. 5er. Do a search and I'm sure you'll find most of your questions answered already.
Good luck in your decision.
Rubi.. it's hard to say and probably only time will tell. A lot depends upon where you are at. If in a dry state (area), it may just not be a problem at all; however, if in a humid area, the moisture may stick around long enough to cause mold and mildew....not good.
By the way how and why did you put water into the gray tank? I can understand doing this with the black tank, but I don't think I've ever heard of this with the gray tank.
Sorry no one has answered your question, but yes, a high nose on the trailer will cause sway.
I think the better wording here is that it "may" cause sway...not "will".
All things considered, the best advice given to you so far is that info provided to you by Barney. Assumptions will usually tend to come back and bite you in the butt and in your case, it probably will.
Since you have time, I would get the Sherline and make absolutely sure what your tongue weight actually is. And as Barney said, visit the sticky at the top of this forum and read it thoroughly.
I assume you have some sort of weight distribution set up...if yes, many can be converted to a Reese Dual Cam system that has built in sway control and will work much better than either a single or double anti-sway friction bar. The cost is a little more, but you will get much better performance.
Good luck and hope this helps
Well, I gotta say that the info provided in that iRV2 post, doesn't really convince me that these problems (trailing arm bushing & H frame deflection) were a major problem with the early Monaco/HR 8-bag chassis. I checked back on recalls (again, of those problems) by Monaco in those years and found nothing. As I mentioned previously, I have friends in our rv club who do have Monaco 8-bag products who have never experienced these problems and have no complaint about the ride/steering.
For the OP, with all things considered, I would recommend either the Diplomat or Endevor. However, with that age of a coach, you are going to have to expect problems...just the nature of the beast. If you are inexperienced with DPs, I highly recommend that before purchase, that you hire an expert to inspect it first.
Hummm.. I have lot of friends with the Monaco 8 bag chassis and not one of them have ever mentioned the problems Neverhome describes. We had the R4RR chassis in our 08 Safari Simba and it was a rough riding rig. We had to replace the trailing arms after two years of ownership. Of course, the dealer never mentioned this problem to us when we bought it new. Fortunately, our extended service provider picked up the whole bill.
I will check out the post at IRV2. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
PS... ok, went over to IRV2 and looked up that post...There are over 100 pages for this post.... I went through the first few pages before I got really bored with it and never saw anything about trailing arm bushings or H frame problems. Can you be a little more specific as to where I can find this info you're talking about?
One more thing, I'm not sure when Monaco quit making the Windsor, but it was most definitely above the Diplomat and didn't have the tag axle. I have one on each side of me right now. One is a rear bedroom the other is a rear bath.
The HR Endeavor and the Monaco Diplomat are exactly the same. They are the top coaches in the single axle group. The higher coaches have tag axles and are longer. I hope this helps but the coaches built by Monaco before the bankruptcy are of much better quality. If the electronics haven't been updated then they will need it.
The bad bushings in the trailing arms were corrected by 2001. The later coaches have a much more substantial bushing but beware, the Roadmaster chassis had a design defect which caused deflection of the H frames and made steering a nightmare. There is a fix now and it is not very expensive to do.
Sorry, but the Monaco Camalot (and sister units in Holiday Rambler, Beaver,and Safari) were inbetween the Diplomat and Dynasty and was available with and without a tag axle, depending upon the length.
I have never heard of a problem with "bad bushings in the trailing arms" on Monaco products. I googled it and found nothing. Additionally, I also googled "deflection of the H frame"...and once again found nothing. Please provide some substantial info on these two problem...if they do indeed exist.
However, Monaco did start a recall of the trailing arm defect on the following coaches:
Monaco Knight 2002 - 2004
Monaco Cayman 2002 - 2009
Holiday Rambler Ambassador 2002 - 2004
Holiday Rambler Neptune 2002 - 2009
Safari Cheetah 2002 - 2007
Safari Simba RD All Years
Safari Zanzibar/Sahara 2002 -2005
Beaver Baron All Years
The recall affects Rear Suspension Trailing Arms ONLY ON THE R4R and RR4R CHASSIS with the "Monaco Gold" or sometimes referred to as "R-Way" suspension. Monaco started replacing these trailing arms with exact replicas which also were defective.
After the Monaco bankrupcy, a private company (Source Eng) started making an upgraded trailing arm that would replace the defective Monaco unit. These replacements are still availible today.
To those ignorant people that think they don't need any chemicals,......
in our long stay campground in AZ, we would sometimes get in the downwind current of the dump station there, and most times it was not a problem. till every now and then, one would pull up, (usually an old one) and you talk stink !!!!
IMO, if you don't use "blue", stay outta my campground !!
Actually, I think anyone who lives downwind current of a dump station is the ignorant one. That's just plain stupid. :S
Dump stations are notoriously filthy, smelly, and just a totally bacteria infested place. Living close to one doesn't speak highly of the person who does.
HR and Monaco were like Chevy and Oldsmobile. Monaco and HR had the same basic models, but each had items that were just for that brand. Some think Monaco was the slightly better and some think HR was slightly better in the same basic floorplan. BOTH are equal. Doug
And Beaver, also part of the Monaco family were the best of the bunch! Just saying!! LOL
Don't forget Safari!!!
To the OP... be aware that Monaco had a trailing arm design defect in their RR4R and R4R Roadmaster chassis across their 4 brand names. Monaco went bankrupt prior to repairing any of these hundreds of coaches and the follow on owner (Navistar) was not responsible. Therefore, owners of those defective coaches were on the hook to get this repair done on their own nickel.
Ask me how I know!
Either open or stowed, I would not allow my children to jump on the couch.
With our present rv and all of our previous rv's (that had slide outs), I have always used them in either position without any problems being created.
I've had Pressure Pro on my previous motor home and toad and transferred them to our new motor home an toad and after almost seven years, I have only experience one time when the sensor vibrated loose a little bit causing the sensor to stop sending. My monitor immediately notified me that I had lost connection and at the next stop, I found and tightened the sensor back on and have never had another problem with it. I do, however, now make it a point to check the sensors prior to travel.
Our new toad, 2011 GMC Terrain, came with factory TPMS and I have never experienced a single problem with it in the 75,000 miles we've driven it and the 10,000 miles we've towed it.
Checking your tires prior to travel is a good thing, but does nothing when your going down the highway at 60mph and you run over something that causes a tire to start leaking. If the leaking continues, the tire will eventually come apart and cause lots of damage....much more than the cost of the TPMS.
You mentioned: "I dislike them because it gives you an excuse to NOT do what you should be doing on a regular basis."
Just because you have a TPMS, does NOT relieve you of your responsibility to check your tires prior to traveling. The TPMS will warn you of leakage, but will do nothing to tell you of cracks, bubbles, rocks, or other debris that tires (especially duals) can pick up that will cause damage.
TPMS is a great safety device that every rv'er should be using.