Be aware that the 2010 model was the first for the Navistar Monaco products. They later sold out to Allied Specialty Vehicles, who later sold out to REV . Not sure how this will (or has) affected getting service, parts, or even if they did a good job or not.
I think if it was me (and this is purely my opinion) I don't think I would entertain the idea of this make, model, and year.
Just my thoughts...
Well Todd, this is an often posted question. Are you an FMCA member? If yes, they provide a yearly toad publication listing all that can be towed 4-down. If not, then I suggest you go to www.remcoindustries.com/Towing/ and insert different brands that you might be interested in.
As far as tow bars, the four major brands are Roadmast, Demco, Blue-Ox, and Readybrute. In addition to the tow bar, you'll also need a base plate for the truck, light kit, and auxiliary braking system.
Same as George, but we have dual VIP722s which provides us with a separate Dual receiver for each one of our TVs. Record while watching a live program, or record two programs while watching a third pre-recorded program.. Very simple to disconnect from the house and reconnect in the rv. And like Paw Paw, we also use the DISH.com chat feature. I set up a small word program that tells them exactly what I need and I just cut and paste to the chat line. I change the service address in the word program prior to cut/pasting with our current address (usually an rv park). This eliminates any confusion you might have with the operator.
We also have the automatic and hard mounted Winegard Traveler antenna. One push of the button and it will raise and lock onto all three sats within a minute or two. It is kinda pricy (approx $1500), but boy is it worth it....especially if you have a portable antenna that you have to locate the sats by hand. Also, with all three sats in focus, there is no changing of the sats when changing channels.
Double towing is regulated state by state. You need to check your states regulations to get the correct answer. Most states either require a CDL or that the first trailer be a 5th wheel....or both.
What?? 34 doesn't go to Florence...it goes to Waldport.
If you take 20 over the mountains and NOT cut off on 34 in Lebanon, you'll have to go through all of Albany and Corvallis...... not good!'
So, to answer your question. Look for the 34 in Lebanon.
When at Lebanon (on 20), you need to cut off on 34. It will go directly west to Corvallis (and bypassing the town area) where it will reconnect with 20 that will take you to Newport.
However, that said. Hwy 20 over the mountains is a really curvy road..several 15mph curves and many 25 or 35. While it is shorter, it will probably take you longer than if you take 22 to I-5 and then south on I-5 to the 34. Or take 126 to Eugene and then north on I-15 to the 34.
Much depends upon what you are driving. A little info would be helpful.
I was thinking 38 also. He wants to spend as much time on 101 as he can before getting to Newport, but I've never been over that road. I always take 34 to 20 and I have taken 126 before. But he's wanting to get over to the coast as soon as he can.
I have a friend coming up from California (Lake Shasta) and he wants to get over to Hwy 101 and come up the coast to Newport He has a 35' Gasser with Jeep toad.
Wha is the best route for him to cut over?
We either the 22 to Salem and I-5 down to 34 to Corvallis and then 20 to Newport. Or..... we take 126 to Eugene and north on I-5 to 34 to Corvallis and then 20 to Newport.
Hwy 20 to Sweet Home/Lebanon is very twisty with several 15 mph curves. We have gone that way a couple of times, but do not recommend it.
As mentioned, Hwy 22 to Salem over to Hwy 18 is a very good road, but you have to go through city streets in Salem and Lincoln City. Lots of traffic and stop lights.
The only thing I can add to this conversation to those, beyond all logical reasoning, that still think they need chemicals, is to ask you to try just using water. Rinse your tank out real good (soap, water and a little highway movement will do the trick), keep the over head vent closed and fan off when flushing and just see if you still have a problem. If you do, try to locate exactly where the odor is coming into the rv, as there will be a seal or something amiss and you'll need to correct it.
And to Tinstar, if you think this post was over a long time ago, why are you still here?
I would start by totally gutting the inside....every thing, just so you know exactly what you are working with. There can be some bad damage inside the walls under the floor, that you can't see and will never know its there until it bites your in the a$$.
Big job for sure.
After weighing all the thoughts and solutions, I have come to one conclusion. Anyone that thinks their black tank doesn't stink (or the stuff inside of it) needs to have their nose checked because it does.''
You have missed the whole point of this discussion. It's not about if chit stinks or not....of course it does. What we are talking about is how to keep that stink out of the rv. Black tank systems are designed to contain that stink "in" the tank and not in the rv. If the black tank system has good seals, no stink will escape. Of course if you hold open the toilet valve long enough the stink will come back up the pipe and into the bathroom.....ESPECIALLY if the overhead vent is open and the fan is on.
So...... if the system is working correctly, there is absolutely no reason to put any deodorizers in the tank as the stink will be already contained in the tank. Therefore, just using plain water is more than sufficient to keep the system operating correctly.
I hope this helps to provide a better understanding for you. I, and others, were only pointing out to the OP (and others, including you) that black tank chemicals (much like special rv toilet paper) is not necessary, nor required, and is only making your wallet lighter.
However it is only prudent among those of us with years of experience to provide a cheaper and easier alternate source.
thanks for the reply Ron however iam pretty confident I have as much experience as you,bill and others
its not very hard to pour 5 oz of fluid in the toilet each time the tanks dumped and super flushed lol
But you see, that's the whole point. "Why" pour 5 oz of fluid that costs $$ when you don't have to and water will do just fine that doesn't cost anything? Granted that 5 oz doesn't cost much, but over a long period of time with many, many 5 oz being poured....it will definitely add up to a lot of $$ that could have been used more wisely.
Obviously you are set in concrete on this issue and have no desire to hear alternatives. Fine. It's your $$.
Have a great day and see ya on the road.
I don't agree. The explorer looks like it is pretty level to me with the exception of the truck not being on level ground. The awkward positioning of the combination distorts the actual hookup. Too bad the OP didn't take a picture when the Explorer and trailer were on level ground.....might be a whole different story.
Ron its not like I would not consider the water solution suggested at all? I just found it was not working for me when as said I get about 2/3 full and its been warm out(80-90)If I have bath vent open and flush its stinks? what can I say ? so I use tank de odour and it works for me. People here asked about tank chemicals.I gave my brand and opinion.When people say Black tanks don't give odour I simply disagree that's all there is to it
So you have tried just water...correct?
And therein lies your problem. As I mentioned previously, why don't you close the vent and turn off the fan before you flush? That's a lot cheaper than purchasing chemicals to mask the odor.
Yes, the OP did ask about chemicals. However it is only prudent among those of us with years of experience to provide a cheaper and easier alternate source.
Ok, I'm gotta here.
It's interesting that nobody has mentioned the fact that the trailer wheels are back near the crown of the road, the TV's rear wheels are in the gutter, and the TV's front wheels are up the incline into the parking lot or next lane. This will exaggerate any angle at the hitch. The rig does seem to be hitch-heavy, but not as severely as perception might indicate.
Exactly. Much to do about nothing.:R
Again, with all due respect, I don't understand why you won't even consider that there may be an alternative answer to this issue. Have you tried just using water and washing the inside of your tank when you travel?
We also live in Southern California with 115 degree summer temps and spend 5 months of the year in our motor home for the past 8 years with pretty much the same size of motor home. So I feel I'm pretty much in the same situation as you. I've had a pop-up trailer, 18' single axle trailer, 25' dual axle trailer, 35' DP motor home and our current 42' DP motor home. In all, I have only used water and nothing but water and have not experienced odor inside the rv except for one time with the 25' trailer when the toilet seal broke. However, I do "wash" out my black tank every time we travel and replace my drain hose every three years.
I and others here, are just trying to show you that there is a different possibility for you to explore. We are not trying to down play your beliefs or mock you in any way. Obviously, using just water will reduce the cost of tv'ing considerably.....just think how many $$ you've spent over the many years of tv'ing for odor masking chemicals. I bet it's a bunch.
So, like I said. Give it a try. I think you'll be surprised and pleased with the results