Have you compared the 43 Ventana to the 42 Phaeton? We did and found the Phaeton much more coach for about the same $$.
You needed to look deeper. :W
One is laminated, and will at some point delaminate, the other isn't and won't.Mine hasn't and I haven't heard of any other Tiffin doing so.
One has Comfort Drive, the other doesn't.Don't need it. My tag axle Phaeton drives easily and straight down the road...wind or no wind. I can easily drive it with one finger. After doing over 35,000 miles with Comfort Drive I wouldn't be without it. Good for you. I'm sure after 36K miles, I will say the same. Driving home last Sunday in monsoon conditions just reaffirmed my feelings on Comfort Drive.
I know a lot of people love their Tiffins, heck I even bought into the hype and recommended on to my parents. I'd never do that again. :B I was working on that thing constantly, even fixing the stuff Red Bay had supposedly fixed when, like so many others, theirs too made the trip back. Friends had an Allegro Bus, same deal. Cracked sidewalls and endless trips to Red Bay. They gave up and sold theirs. I passed another Allegro Bus on the Interstate a few weeks back, another one with a big crack coming at the rear slide opening. Like any other brand, there will be a few that come out of the factory that should have been turned into junk. Just today, there was a post of a person who had nothing but trouble with his MADP.
As to the OPs question on the Ventanna, nice coach. As mentioned above, hung wall construction, Not proven to be ant better than lamination.Comfort Drive, As far as I (and others I have talked to) more of a sales gimmick than any thing else. and Newmar quality. No better and probably no worse than Tiffin quality. Check the recalls....I see more for Newmars than I do for Tiffins. As always, I would suggest walking through your local campground and look at the units that are 10-15 years old. They look good when they're new. Look at the older ones and see which ones stand the test of time.
We camped last weekend with friends with a 2002 Dutch Star that I believe has over 100,000 miles on it now. It looks as good today as the day it left Newmar. If you take good care of your coach, even a 99 Itasca will look good as my friends does.
Yes, I'm biased, Yes, you are.as we've owned (3) new Newmars and they've all been great. That's great. Good to hear.My own personal dealing with other builds haven't been so good.Thats just you.
Obviously, those with a certain brand will laude that brand unless they get a bad one. Even tho we hear a lot of complaints here on this and other rv forums, the biggest percentage of people will not come on here and just post positive ones. I've had several different rv's, all different brand/models and I gotta say I've been lucky in that all of them have been good ones and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them. Our choice of the Phaeton over the Ventana was personal, not necessarily because it was a better coach. I just got more bang for the buck and there hasn't been a day that I've regretted that decision....just as I'm sure that Bruce wouldn't either.
It can take 3-4 weeks to process. If your account is not updated by Monday please let us know. Corporate will also be monitoring your account as well. Thanks for getting back to me!
This transaction still hasn't taken place and I received notice this morning that my ERS has expired. I have contacted Comenity Bank on this issue and they said the 10,000 points was applied to my ERS.
Looks like the right hand isn't talking to the left hand.
Our resort is also very different from what you describe. However, when ever you get a diversified group of people together, you're gonna have differences of opinions, likes and dislikes, and groups that will click together....just like in high school! Typically, this will cause some problems, but overall, they will come together for the greater good.
We have quarterly HOA dues that cover everything with the exception of individual site electrical power. It's a little more expensive than others, but overall, it's worth it.
We bought into this resort prior to the HOA take over from the original developer who declared bankruptcy. Since then, the resort has really come together and is now a 5-star resort with a Good Sam 10-10-10 rating. We spend our entire summers here in cool 65-70 degree weather on the Oregon coast and use it as a hub to travel and explore the Pacific Northwest.
I would never belong to a resort like you describe. Look elsewhere.
Life is good.
I got a 10 sensor unit for my last coach and wouldn't you know it, my next coach had a tag. Had to buy another monitor for 12 wheels plus two new sensors.
If you even "think" you might be trading up in the future, I'd go ahead and get a 12 wheel unit and save a bunch of $$ later on.
When you are moving from place to place, do you take everything out of the cupboards and drawers and refrigerator?
No. Everything we put in the cabinets and fridge, we put into plastic bins. The fridge bins are clear so you can see what is in them, and the cabinet bins are colored with labels on the front naming contents.
With the bins, nothing shifts around or falls out when we open the doors.
Hope this helps
We take this route often: I-5, 89, 44, 36, 395. Just not in the middle of winter.
We take this route twice a year in our 44 footer. Can be a little narrow in places, but mostly very good road. There is one underpass (train tresses) that has warnings of low overpass, but we are around 13' and have no problem with it.
I think you're referring to an antenna...not a satellite....right? Those little satellites circling in orbit can get a little expensive.
Speaking from personal experience, I like DISH and I've heard good reports on their Tailgater portable antenna. I've never had Direct, so really can't say one way or the other on them. I don't know if the Tailgater is an automatic (don't think it is), but if possible I would get an automatic tuner antenna. Trying to sight a manual antenna to the satellites can be a real chore.
We just remove our DVR from the house and install in the rv and connect to the antenna (Traveler) mounted on the roof. If we go more than a couple hundred miles from home, I get on-line to MyDish.com and access their chat line and tell the person to change my "service" address and then I get the local network channels.
Really quite simple.
Since you will be buying a new truck also, I would first find the trailer that I really wanted and then get the truck that is MORE than capable of pulling it.
New or used is always a decision only you can make. Personally, I would shop around for a used one that is not more than three years old that someone has taken good care of.
Depreciation hit on a new one will probably be around 20%. However, if you intend on keeping this trailer for many years, I would probably buy new. I think you'll find however, that most will buy their 2nd trailer within a few years of the first one.
Financing a new one for 20 years? I wouldn't. Maybe five years. I would look for a used one that I could pay cash for or finance for three years at most.
Go to rv dealers and just look, look, look. Don't let the salesman talk you into ANYTHING until you have done your research. This forum, and others, are a good source for finding out the particulars of a certain brand/model and what other owners have to say about them.
Most of all, don't get into a hurry. Determine exactly what you want before you're ready to buy.
As for the truck, don't be misled about the mfg'ers "tow capacity" bull. It is only an advertisement gimmick. Payload and rear axle capacities are more important. For trailers, take about 12% of the trailer's GVWR for tongue weight. Trailer mfg'ers quoted tongue weight is normally much less that the actual tongue weight.
Hope this helps
As Old Biscuit was alluding to, mfg's "tow ratings" should not be a factor as you will run out of payload capacity long before you come close to their tow rating. Find your payload capacity on your door jamb and use that for figuring out what you can to. Typically, that labeled payload capacity includes a full tank of gas plus a 150 lb driver. Any thing else you put on the back of the truck.... you (anything over 150 lbs), passengers, equipment, tools, camping gear hitch, trailer pin/tongue weight...etc will be counted towards that limit. If you don't know the trailers pin/tongue weight, you can usually figure 12% for tongue trailers and 20% for 5th wheels.
Hope this helps
I used to get Motorhome magazine and it was fun for a while. But then it seems like it was a little different spin on the same thing every month. It also started to occur to me that 95% of the mag was an advertisement for CW and GS.
That's because it's owned by GS and last year they combined their catalog with the magazine. But I doubt if it's 95%.
I not only get Motorhome Magazine but also the FMCA magazine. Both have lots of good info on new equipment, repairs, problems others have had, appreciation of good rv parks/repair shops and stories of places to visit.
I look forward to getting both each month.
I see nothing wrong with that. It's just an act of good faith and shows the dealer you're serious. However, I think an "emergency" clause should be in there someplace.
But, this will also make the buyer "think twice about it" before he/she jumps into the deep end. Buyer's regret can be devastating.
I've been to several rv parks that have requirements that any dog tied (chain, rope, etc) up outside, the owner must be out there with them. No dogs left alone. Same thing inside the rv. Also, some parks don't allow those retractable leashes. I know....dumb rules, but nevertheless, rules are rules.
I'm not sure of "laws". I suspect that if a private rv park, it's up to the park owner to set rules. If State or Federal campground, they also will have "rules" (again, not sure if it is laws). Best to check in with the campground host or the person at the rv park that checks you in.
It's really simple logic.
and/or loos of insurance coverage.
It is a matter of physics, not logic.
The insurance carrier cannot deny coverage unless it specifically states in the policy vehicles without supplemental braking are not covered, if the driver of the vehicle is breaking any law there is no coverage, or words to that effect. The insurance carrier cannot just deny coverage because a vehicle could not stop quick enough. That doesn't make sense.
You have taken my statement completely out of context. The "logic" statement referred to the following: It's really simple logic. If both vehicles have brakes, the emergency stopping distance will be shorter "than" if only one has brakes.