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 > Your search for posts made by 'lanerd' found 739 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: M@G Break System

Dick, M&G is an excellent braking system with many people here having very favorable service from it. I seriously doubt if you can go wrong with it. Ron
lanerd 10/21/14 10:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV GPS and TPMS...yes or no

No burrito, thank you very much..... You're missing out. And burritos are WAY safer than tacos when you're behind the wheel. Safer? I donno know... burritos have a tendency to do strange, smelly things to my digestive system, which I might add, is NOT conductive to a pleasant trip.:E Thanks anyway... Ron
lanerd 10/21/14 10:15am Toy Haulers
RE: DEF addative

You DO know that DEF is NOT a fuel additive.....right? In fact, it's not even an additive as you don't add it to anything. It is used just as it comes out of the jug. I get mine at Walmart for a little less than $12 for 2 1/2 gallons. My DEF tank holds 13 gallons and I'll usually wait until it gets down to about a half tank (approx 6 1/2 gallons) and I'll buy two of the Walmart boxes (5 gals). I can get about 100 miles to a gallon of DEF. Don't confuse this DEF with a fuel additive. It does NOT go into the fuel tank as it has its own. The fluid is used in the catalytic converter to increase the temperatures so that it will burn any unburnt fuel in the exhaust system. After 7000 miles, I can run my finger around the "inside" of my tail pipe and my finger comes out perfectly clean. No soot or carbon what so ever. Ron If you are only getting 100 miles per gallon of DEF , you have a real problem that needs to be addressed.k Opps... I dropped a digit. Make that 1000 miles per gallon. Stupid finger! :o With a little over 7000 miles on my odometer, I've put in 7 1/2 gallons of DEF so far.
lanerd 10/21/14 10:10am General RVing Issues
RE: DEF addative

You DO know that DEF is NOT a fuel additive.....right? In fact, it's not even an additive as you don't add it to anything. It is used just as it comes out of the jug. I get mine at Walmart for a little less than $12 for 2 1/2 gallons. My DEF tank holds 13 gallons and I'll usually wait until it gets down to about a half tank (approx 6 1/2 gallons) and I'll buy two of the Walmart boxes (5 gals). I can get about 100 miles to a gallon of DEF. Don't confuse this DEF with a fuel additive. It does NOT go into the fuel tank as it has its own. The fluid is used in the catalytic converter to increase the temperatures so that it will burn any unburnt fuel in the exhaust system. After 7000 miles, I can run my finger around the "inside" of my tail pipe and my finger comes out perfectly clean. No soot or carbon what so ever. Ron
lanerd 10/20/14 05:24pm General RVing Issues
RE: Lost 12 volt for coach and chassis

I donno, I think i'd start with the batteries and go from there. Ron
lanerd 10/20/14 03:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: RV GPS and TPMS...yes or no

Our coach and toad both have factory built-in Nav units...plus both have bluetooth. The Nav units can only be programed when the vehicle is in "park", and the bluetooth makes the smart phone hands free. When in the coach, my lovely DW is the navigator and sole proprietor of the smart phone. All I do is say "yes dear" and respond to her direction commands. No burrito, thank you very much.....and technology is great! Ron
lanerd 10/20/14 11:07am Toy Haulers
RE: RV GPS and TPMS...yes or no

Strabo, some people are just so set in their ways that new technology passes them right by. Ron
lanerd 10/20/14 10:24am Toy Haulers
RE: Sewer Odor (most likely the grey tank)

Well the lack of chemicals is not the reason why it smelled. It had to be either a trap did not have water in it or you might have a plugged up vent. That is the only way that water would be syphoned when you dump the water somewhere else like the kitchen sink. Now as to chemicals: The old blue stuff is a waste of money because all it does is camouflage the smell. What you need is enzyme product to clean out the garbage that has gone down into the grey tank. The same goes for your black tank. I use Happy Camper which eats up all that is in the grey and black tanks keeping them clean and when you dump it does not run the neighbors out of the park. Some RVers think that by using lots of water solves the problem. (WRONG) You would be surprised when you flush the dish water how much sticks to the inside walls of the grey tank. Enzyme product will clean it out and you will never have bad smell. Ray... you must be a salesman for Happy Camper. If not, the above post is strictly your opinion and as such, not necessarily true. However, you are entitled to your opinion, true or not. So go ahead and pay the $$ for that stuff...it's your money. Ron
lanerd 10/20/14 10:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Today's weirdness....need some words of wisdom

Posted By: Ductape on 10/19/14 02:05pm The pressure won't escape from the toilet because the toilet has a valve in it. Unlike a home toilet, it is not going to back up. Sorry, but a black tank under pressure from a pressurized water source, WILL force water pass the toilet flush seal...just as it will force water up the vent line. Which ever is lower, will leak first. I have seen this happen with two DPs and a large Class C. And, if this happens to you, DO NOT try to flush the toilet...you MUST release the pressure in the black tank first by turning off the water and pulling the black tank drain valve. If you try to flush the toilet, be prepared for a shower of not so nice water. Ron
lanerd 10/19/14 05:35pm Travel Trailers
RE: Do you use an outside TV?

Roy...if you have neighbors, do you first ask them if they would mind you doing this? On our coach, the exterior tv was an option...one that we forgo. However, the hookups and power is completely wired to a compartment if I do decide to have one in the future. Personally, I just really don't see the need for one. Ron
lanerd 10/19/14 05:20pm Technology Corner
RE: Sewer Odor (most likely the grey tank)

That's fine as long as you realize you have a problem and the chemicals are just a band-aid fix. I'd be willing to bet that this scenario would consist of less than 1% of those who use chemicals. Ron
lanerd 10/19/14 01:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Is it wise to invest in a cover for my TT?

About the only problem I'm aware of with covering rv's is the movement of the fabric on the painted surface. If any dust or sand particles get under there, it will scratch and maybe even remove the paint. However, being in Kentucky, I'm sure you have winds, but no so much dust and sand. So, based on that, I would think a cover would be a good thing, especially if you get a lot of snow and rain. Protecting your investment is a good thing. That said, I would only purchase the absolute best cover with the softest interior I could find. Some have reinforced corners. Be aware however, that even the best will probably only last two to four years. Make sure you get one with a zippered access door to allow you inside if needed. Good luck Ron
lanerd 10/19/14 11:22am Travel Trailers
RE: Looking for info on Dinghy towing my '03 CR-V

Isn't there also a fuse that needs to be removed?
lanerd 10/19/14 09:51am Dinghy Towing
RE: RV GPS and TPMS...yes or no

Since just about everybody now days has at least one smart phone, GPS units are getting to be a dieing breed. I don't think I would invest in one. TPMS however.....is a MUST in my book. The cost of a complete TPMS system is cheaper than one 22.5 mh tire, not to mention the damage it can cause if it blows and takes out fender wells, wiring, cables, brake lines, etc. IMO, TPMS should be a mandatory accessory on all rv's with tires. Ron
lanerd 10/19/14 09:48am Toy Haulers
RE: Sewer Odor (most likely the grey tank)

But your tanks are a closed system with a roof vent. Something is wrong. I suggest you check the AAV (air admittance valve) usually located under the kitchen or bath (or maybe both) sinks. They are cheap and can be found at any hardware store. Siphoning water out of a p-trap is possible and once refilled, should eliminate any odor coming from there. However... You should never have a black or gray tank odor inside your rv. Adding chemicals or deodorizers is just a waste of good money.
lanerd 10/19/14 09:36am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Camping with Electricity along HWY 395 California

When you drive through Bridgeport, be mindful of your speed. It is not a speed trap, there have been several problems arise in town with all the travelers speeding trough town and RVs are very easy to spot and stop. Take a look at the back in angle parking as you drive through town. I don't know anyone who has figured that out yet and I worked in the traffic industry for over thirty years. It's just plain weird. David We just came through Bridgeport last week and noticed the back in parking. You're right...that's just plain weird. All vehicles were pointing out into the street, so I assume they do it this way so that no one has to back out of the parking spot into the traffic. We always just creep through there.... For the op, the only places we've stayed along 395 is Mammoth Mtn rv park..$50 plus $5 for dog and at Lee Vining at the MonoVista rv park. It was cheaper (about $30 and adequate. Ron
lanerd 10/18/14 12:54pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: MH vs 5er

If you are considering a 5er and truck, you really need to do lots of research and become VERY familiar with both the truck and trailer's weight ratings. Don't be misguided by the "dry" weights as they are pretty much irrelevant. Pay close attention to the truck's payload capacity, RAWR, GVWR, and GCVWR. The trailer's main concerns are the pin/tongue weight (again forget "dry" weights) and its GVWR. For quick estimations, use 20% of the 5er's GVWR for pin weight or 15% of a travel trailer's GVWR for tongue weight. For the truck, make sure you have about 1000 lbs of payload left over "after" the trailer is hooked up.... for you, passengers, tools, equipment, hitch, etc. For instance, if you find a 5er that has a GVWR of say...14,000 lbs, take 20% of that (2800 lbs) for the pin weight. That means that the truck that you will need to pull it, will need to have a payload capacity of about 3800 lbs. Don't go into a purchase until you are very confident that you understand all of the above. Don't listen to the salesmen when they tell you "this is ok, your truck will pull this", as they just want to make more on their commission. Be educated, be smart. Good luck Ron
lanerd 10/17/14 11:29am Beginning RVing
RE: holding tank maintenance

What beemerphile1 said!! You don't need anything but water. If you have an odor, you have a problem and it needs to be fixed....not covered up. Poor sensor readings are a way of life with the cheap level senors installed in the black tanks. For the most part, you'll just have to live with it. Just because the product is advertised, does not make it a requirement. Ron
lanerd 10/16/14 10:51am Travel Trailers
RE: MH vs 5er

Doesnt mean sitting is good for them Don... I never said it was "good" for them.... just that it's not bad for them. I think the unspoken key element here is time. For a month or a few months, setting will not cause any detrimental effects to a diesel drive train. Obviously, setting for years can and will cause problems with seals, gaskets, belts....etc. And depending upon the local environment and weather, diesel fuel can become contaminated with alga. For the average rv'er, who may keep their diesel in storage for the winter....letting them set the entire winter (or summer) will NOT be bad on the diesel drive train. I apologize to the OP for getting off topic here. Ron
lanerd 10/16/14 10:32am Beginning RVing
RE: MH vs 5er

I would rent a MH and take it on at least a one week trip of 1000 plus miles. Get a feel for it. To get the feel for towing a trailer you can rent trucks and trailers from a few sources, but your best bet is a friend or a relative that may have one and let you drive it while they instruct you. We prefer a 5th wheel but I think a MH would be a better choice for someone that has never towed or backed in a trailer. You do get more for your money with a 5th wheel- dollar for dollar. But once you add in the new truck the cost is very close to a mid-level MH. To answer the MH long drives vs 5th wheel long stay it boils down to two reasons: To go from the tow vehicle to the 5th wheel you have to get out in the weather, unlock the entrance door and get in the 5th wheel.In all my years of rv'ing, I don't think I've ever done so in bad weather. We always research the weather and make sure that it will be in our favor. With a MH you pull over and take a step back to the living area. No weather concerns. The other reason, before leveling jacks were added to 5th wheels it took longer to get settled in a camp site. MH would be setup in less than a half hour. 5th wheels would take up to an hour. Now that time difference has gone away due to the auto levelers on 5th wheels. So this no longer applies?
lanerd 10/15/14 06:03pm Beginning RVing
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