Ok i dont know how to post a picture but i wrote down everything
And yes appently i have a lot to learn . Had NO idea it was this complacated.
Once you know your total weight, you subtract it from your GCWR, which I believe you stated was 7200 lbs. This is your available payload. Once you know this number you can figure out what weight trailer you can haul.
I think you mean GVWR....not GCWR. If his truck has a 7000 lbs GVWR, the GCWR will be a heck of a lot more than 7200 lbs. Don't ya think? Need to proof read before you hit post.:R
I'm also a huge Duck fan...
Anyway... as mentioned, even with the 5.3, you STILL have to abide by the truck's ratings. The 5.3 only means that it will pull the weight better than the 4.8.
For your truck (again, as mentioned) you should be most concerned with the payload capacity more than anything else. So, once you figure that out (GVWR - curb weight)you will then be able to determine how heavy (not necessarily long) of a trailer you can pull.
To weigh your truck you don't really have to load it up. Just take it to the scales (preferably with a full tank of gas) and weigh it with you in it. That will be your curb weight. Then just subtract that from your GVWR (7000 lbs) and that will be your payload. Simple.
Then weigh EVERYTHING you put on or in the truck (including passengers, pets, equipment, tools, camping stuff, etc), and subtract that from your newly acquired payload capacity and what's left over will be what you can use for the tongue weight of a trailer..and don't forget to add the weight of the weight distribution unit and sway control device.
It's really not that complicated.
It's my understanding that if you have a two burner 1600 watt unit, that the two burners have to "share" that 1600 watts. In other words, if you want full power, you can only use one burner. If you use two burners, then they split the 1600 watts so that the two power setting will equal 1600 watts. So if you have the front burner using 900 watts, the back burner can only use 700 watts.
Also, I've heard that some of these induction units have a hard time "simmering".
Is any of this correct?
You need to find out your truck's payload capacity first. A 4600 lbs trailer plus 1000 lbs of "stuff" will have a tongue weight of about 700 to 800 lbs. So you gotta figure if your truck is capable of handling that weight, plus the hitch, you, passengers, equipment, tools, camping gear, etc.
I pulled a 5600 lb trailer for quite a few years with my 4.7L Tundra. It was not happy doing it, so I upgraded with a supercharger to up the HP to over 350hp and then it did pretty good. I also had to put air bags on the rear axle, and eventually got a Hensley Arrow to eliminate sway. My tongue weight was about 800 lbs.
So, you can probably do it, but I don't think you or the truck will be happy.
Well, I must live a charmed life...no stink inside, no stink while dumping, and no stink sitting out side from my vent or neighbors.
Plenty of water and rinsing out the black tank with soapy water from the gray tank every time I dump the tanks, works just fine for me. I too use a clear connection to insure that after I rinse the tank, nothing but clear water comes out.
I also insure that my stinky slinky is firmly attached to the sewer connection either by screwing it in tight, or putting something on it weighing it down if no threaded connection on the sewer opening.
And yes, the cost of those chemicals will add up to hundreds of $$ over the years. But, you're keeping a company in business with pay for the employees.
Interesting replies indeed. To each his own, I suppose. If you want to flush your $$ down the toilet, by all means go ahead....it's yours to do with as you please. I put all of mine in the fuel tank.
Have a great day.:C
We used AquaChem for 30 years because my poop does smell and the tank will have odors during hot weather or long dump intervals. I recently tried Happy Camper and found it easy to use and worked to keep odors down.
Many who have towable RV's may never have tank odor issues, but often motor homes, can have an issue when a toilet is flushed while driving. I don't care who you are, your stuff smells, but since there are a variety of RV types and toilet types, some will produce odors and some won't.
Don, of course your poop smells when it's NOT in the black tank! I don't think anyone said that it didn't. The issue here is about the smell from a properly working black tank. When it is vented and seals in the toilet and drain gates are in good shape, there should not EVER be any odor coming from it. If it does, something is wrong and needs to be repaired. Just throwing in chemicals to mask the odor is not fixing it.
I'm with others....plain ol water will work just fine. Spending hundreds of dollars on tank chemicals is just throwing your money down that toilet into the black tank. :S
I've had two motor homes, three trailers, and none of them have had black tank odors...even full and during hot weather. However, I do agree, when I dump a load into the toilet...boy does it ever stink! :B
Unless you have the heavy duty payload package (option 627),your limiting factor will definitely be the payload capacity of the truck.
In most cases you can figure your payload capacity by getting the truck weighed and then subtract that amount from the door sticker that shows the truck's GVWR. The difference will be the payload capacity. You then have to add up all the weights (including driver, passenger, equipment, tools, etc) that you are going to put "IN or ON" the truck and subtract that figure from the payload capacity figure you previously determined. Don't forget to include the MC, and hitch.
What is left over is what you can figure for the trailer's tongue weight. Typically, you can find that figure by multiplying 12.5% times the trailer's GVWR.
Yeah, CVT transmissions are becoming really popular. The ever popular Honda CRV will be using one in 2015 and now they are not towable.
Unfortunately, the rv toad market is only a drop in the bucket for overall sales of any one model of vehicle so the manufactures don't really consider this a problem.
We stay at Rice Ranch RV park and can walk to those areas, don't have to mess with traffic unless we want to.
We stay there too...usually with our Elk's RV Club members. A five minute walk across the highway puts you at the entrance to the big tent area.
We typically only go about every 3 or 4 years as we've found that it has pretty much the same vendors and same things for sale each year. If we need some work done on the coach, tow bar, or others items, we can always count on someone there to fix us up.
Posted By: the bear II on 12/15/14 08:11am
Unless you are a shopping freak like my DW Quartzite is a once in a lifetime visit.
To do Quartzite justice
Bear... the name is Quartzsite...think of it as two words...Quartz and site.
I know. You'd think that with all the oil being pumped out of Alberta, that oil by-products would be a lot cheaper. Last time we made the trip to Alaska, we spent over $5000 just for fuel, and most of it was in Canada.
Several good systems out there-- they do not involve dismounting the tire.
About my only recommendation is to stick with a company that is located in the U.S. and has been in business for at least a couple of years. The is as opposed to a vendor who buys some "look alike" senders and monitors, sell them at RV shows for a couple of events, has no parts inventory, no technical expertise and may be gone next year. But, I guess that advice applies to a number of things!
Since air (or Nitrogen for that matter) follow the Ideal Gas Law, I see no reason to monitor temperature in addition to PSI and the two are ABSOLUTELY/mathematically related. And, quite frankly temperature out on the valve stem in really not a very good indication of tread or sidewall temperature.
We are happy with our choice-- been on coach and toads for 3 years: http://www.advantagepressurepro.com/home.asp
+2 for Pressure Pro. Had mine going on 7 years now with the same sensors. Twice it has warned me of a loss of tire pressure which allowed me to pull over prior to the tire blowing and causing who knows how much damage. However, I did have a blowout on my toad's r/rear with no warning and still not sure what caused the blowout.
We were in Pheasant Run in Portland OR and they prohibit the use of macerators due to trouble with the septic system. It seems there may be a problem in the leach field plugging up with solids that do not have a chance to break down while sitting in the septic tank.
This doesn't make any sense at all. The macerator "liquifies" the contents of the black tank....how in the world could this plug up the leach line? :h
The whole purpose of a leach line on a septic tank system is to run the liquids out and let it seep into the ground. The less solids in a septic tank...the better it works.
Somethin' is screwy here.
The only problem with the PenFed card is that fuel purchases must be charged "at the pump". That can be difficult at truck stops.
All you have to do is call PenFed and explain the situation at the pump.
Wait a minute. Are you guys telling me that to use the Penfed card at truck stops, you HAVE to call Penfed everytime???
We had a factory installed Sani-con in our last coach and while it was convenient to use and stored in much less space, I found that it required periodical maintenance to keep it running efficiently. At least once a year it had to be removed, disassembled and cleaned out. Hair would wrap around the blade shaft and on two occasions I had to replace the plastic (?) impeller. Dumping time required five to ten minutes to empty and clean both tanks...kinda a downer when it was raining.
However, on the plus side it provided the capability to use the gray water to flush out the black tank...really handy! Using it at home allowed me to pump the tanks to our sewer clean out opening about 75 feet away. While on the road, it was simple to use, just pull it out and stick it in the sewer opening.
Our new coach came with the standard stinky slinky and while it does take up more space, it requires much less (if no) maintenance and will empty both tanks in a couple of minutes.
I removed the Sani-con from our old coach when we traded in so that I could use it at home, and thought seriously about using both in the new coach. Eventually, I decided that we really didn't need it, and I leave it at home.
Hope this helps
I have one 722 and I can watch different channels on two TV's. I need to use a regular dish antenna and we can record two channels at the same time.
We did this (with just one 722) for a couple of years and we found sharing the "recording list" was troublesome. Also, If I wanted to record something and watch another recorded program and she wanted to watch a live program (Dancing with the stars), it would knock off the program I was recording. This happened quite often and I guess you can imagine that it was a problem.
So, last year I brought along our 2nd 722 and that totally solved all our tv watching/recording problems. The two units are totally separated from each other (watching/recording) and sure made our tv watching lives much nicer.
Posted By: raymondfl on 12/04/14 12:58pm
I think I am going with two 722's that will allow for watching and recording in both bedroom and main cabin, will run the SD to the outside TV.
Great choice....I think you'll very satisfied with this combination. Hopper/Joey does give more recording options, but 2 722s provide a very simple and easy way to do what you are asking and plus you will only have two devices instead of three.
So in a spare moment of time I find a roof mounted satellite dish offered in Camping World...
My question is how prevalent is satellite TV offered in campgrounds? Do I spend the money on this or not? Thanks for your insight on this. TomB
Tom, the way I read this is that you are asking if the campgrounds offer satellite tv. The answer to that is "NO", they don't. Some offer cable tv through their own cable service, which in turn has its own antenna.....but the campgrounds do not offer satellite tv. If this is the case, I don't think you has a good grasp on the whole concept.
Occasionally RV parks do offer satellite service. R&D Family Campground in Milford, Virginia is one of them. They have various DirecTV dish antennas permanently mounted around the park and you just plug in to one of them. If you have your own DirecTV box, you are good to go. If you do not, you can rent theirs to use during your stay. I have not seen a lot of parks set up this way but some do offer satellite service.
You know, in all my years of rv'ing and all the rv parks I've stayed at, I've never heard of this being available. This has gotta be a heavy investment by the rv park.
So if this indeed the case, I retract my post above.
Especially the availability of getting HD with portable antennas and fixed dome antennas. We've had DISH for it seems like forever and we've always been very satisfied with it. Now with the capability to change our service address merely by going on-line, just enhances our like of DISH.
To each his own, I suppose.