To answer your question which is best....
There are so many different makes, models, floor plans, and engine sizes that any would probably fit your criteria. Which make model is better than other makes and models? Who knows? In my estimation, the mfg's all make comparable coaches and really none are better or worse than others. Of course this excludes the million dollar plus coaches which I assume you're not inquiring about.
Your best bet is to go visit mfg websites, dealerships, rallys, mfg'ering plants, and look at floor plans, options/accessories, storage capability, etc., and find what tickles your fancy.
Nope, the new road is STILL not finished so the few hairpin turns are still there. However, just take it easy and obey the speed signs and you'll be fine. The road, in places, has little no shoulders, but absolutely beautiful scenery.
Will you be staying at Pacific Shores Motorcoach Resort?
What is the name of this park you're talking about. Wouldn't happen to be Shadow Mountain would it? If so, we've stayed there several times in both our 26' trailer and 36 motor home. Some of the spaces are a little small, as this is an older park that wasn't designed for big rigs, but completely doable in our 36 mh.
We did have some problems getting out, as the drainage dip on the side of the roads causes the tail of the motor home to drag....it was easier to back out the way we pulled into the site.
Yes, there were cars/trucks in the roadway that hampered entry/exiting....but we just ask them to move for a few minutes and never had a problem. Everyone we met there were friendly and helpful.
One problem (other than the drainage problem) we encountered was that there are a lot of cotton wood trees there and they shed all over the place. I had to get up on the roof and sweep off the slide out tops before bringing them in.
Personally, I kindly liked the place, but I seriously doubt if we would stay there in our new 43 footer.
I've heard that the RV mfg'ers have move the DEF tank on 2015 motor homes to the driver's side. Haven't seen any 2015's, but it is strange that originally they all put them on the passenger side.
Last year I bought my DEF at our local Walmart and recently went down to purchase another box full, and was informed that they no longer carry it due to it having a short shelf life and that they have experienced a lack of sales on it. Found it for almost the same price at the local NAPA store.
The trailer will have a GVWR of about 7600 lbs. 12% of that is 912 lbs, which you should figure on for max tongue weight. Subtracting that from the Tundra's payload capacity (1410 - 912) only leave you with about 500 lbs for you, passengers, equipment, tools, etc. Not loading the trailer to max weight will provide a more positive towing ratio.
Even tho you will be pushing most of the weight limits, I personally think you will be ok with that combination and with a Pro Pride (or Hensley) your towing experience will be very favorable.
Not to be contentious, but there is no good fueling in either Newport, Phillomath, or Corvallis for a 42' motor home pulling a toad. The best bet (that I'm aware of) is to go over to I-5 via 20 and 34. At the intersection of 34 and I-5, there is on the east side a 76 that is very doable and also a CFM (I think) truck station beside the 76 that will take public vehicles. Both of these are easy in and easy out.
Or, once on I-5 going north towards Portland, just north of Salem is a Pilot/FJ station.
Also, if you want to go 99W out of Corvallis, you first have to go through downtown Corvallis. Not a good idea.
The shortest, easiest, most direct, and have access to easy diesel....is 20 to 34 to I-5.
We make the trip from Newport over to Corvallis several times a year with our 43' motor home and toad....it's really not a problem and it's the shortest route.
However, Hwy 18 (just north of Lincoln City) is a much better highway; but, you will have to connect to Hwy 22 and go through Salem. Not that big of a deal, but a little more traffic lights to negotiate and contend with.
We will be heading out of Newport to attend the FMCA rally in Redmond in a couple of weeks, and I think I will do the Lincoln City, 18, 22 route to Sisters and then 26 over to Redmond. Change of pace.
What is an in-tank rinser? Our camper has a valve on the outside that allows to rinse the black tank by hooking up a hose. Is that what you're referring to?
Yes. When your tank is about 2/3rds full, and before emptying the tanks, turn on the water for this valve and it will put fresh water into the tank. Be very careful that you don't overfill the black tank as it will create a really bad mess inside the rv. Just as soon as the full light comes on, open the black tank dump valve (leave the water running into the tank). Add more water to the black tank so that it will be there prior to using the toilet. About 5 gals will usually be sufficient. BE SURE TO TURN THE WATER OFF TO THE BLACK TANK!!!!
Posted By: DutchmenSport on 07/28/14 10:45am
Don't know what kind of camper you have, but let's assume your black and gray water Y into the same outlet. If they do, here's a trick that REALLY works.
First you need to purchase a 3rd valve, like a flush-king
Camping world sells them, as does any RV dealership.
What you are going to do is back-flush the gray water into the black tank.
Step 1. Attach flush king and open the valve.
Step 2. Open the valve of the black tank and let everything drain until it stops.
Step 3. Close the flush king.
Step 4. Open the Gray valve and let the water back-flush into the black tank for about 5 seconds then shut the gray valve again.
Step 5. Open the flush king valve and the black valve and you'll be amazed how much MORE will come out of the black.
Step 6. Repeat steps 2 thru 5 two more times! Each time will pull more and more out.
Step 7. Once done, close the black and open the gray and open the flush king, and let the gray finish draining, cleaning out your hoses.
This simple process will pull a LOT of stuff from the black tank. You'll be amazed.
The secret is to get a flush king valve, or something similar, with a clear section where you can see what's coming out.
About TP... any brand that works for you! The secret is the amount of water to flush it out of your black tank!
This is also excellent advice. Be aware that if you have space limitations, you don't necessarily need a "Flush King" as you can purchase a 3rd gate valve, without the extra clear tubing and hose connector, that is much smaller. Granted, the clear tubing allows visual inspection of exactly what is coming out (dirty or clean water) and gives you a better idea of what's happening. I installed a 3rd gate plus a short clear connector on mine and I follow the above instructions.
Hope this helps
My opinion is you need to add plenty of water with each flush. Get the tank near full before draining and you will probably not have a problem.
EXACTLY!! THIS is your problem, not the toilet paper or chemicals (which by the way are for covering up odors...not for dissolving paper).
Water, water, and more water until the tank is 2/3rd full before dumping.
If you don't have an in-tank rinser, get one and install it.
Do you use a Power Protection Device when you hookup to power (anywhere, not just in a campground)? And what type?
rocmoc n AZ/Mexico
yep... every time i plug in my mh's power cord, it goes through my Surge Guard first. No exceptions.:C
Forget the "tow rating" of your Yukon....it's the payload capacity that you should be concerned with and keep in mind when buying a new TT. Tow ratings are a fictitious figure made up by the mfg to enhance the selling advertisements. You will max out your payload capacity long before you reach the max tow rating.
Best bet would be to get your Yukon weighed and subtract that weight from the posted GVWR of the SUV to get your "actual" payload capacity. Anything and everything you put in or on your Yukon will go against that payload capacity....including the tongue weight and the W/D unit of the trailer, you, passengers, equipment, tools, etc.
Typically, the mfg'ers "dry" weight of the trailer (including its dry tongue weight") will be much less than actual figures. Therefore, it's usually an accepted process to use 12% to 15% of the trailer's GVWR to come up with a max tongue weight that should be used in figuring it's effect on the tow vehicle.
Good luck in your quest.
What makes you think you need ANY chemical in your black tank? If you follow the correct procedures in dumping and rinsing your tanks and all seals/gaskets/vents are in good operating condition, you should not be experiencing any odors at all.
Do you have an in-tank rinser? Most rv's today come factory equipped with one. If you don't have one, purchase and install one. Using plenty of water every time you flush the toilet will also insure you have lots of water in the tank that will enhance the flow to allow all solids to drain properly.
I also use the water in my gray tank to help in this process too. I installed a 3rd drain gate at the bottom of the "Y" where my gray/black drains are connected. Once I drain the black, I close the 3rd gate and open the gray gate to allow half the soapy water in the gray to flow into the black. Once that is done, I close the gray gate and open the 3rd gate again to drain the black tank once more. You'd be surprised at the amount of stuff that was left in the tank after the first dump.
You don't need chemicals...they only provide $$ revenue for the mfg.
I assume you are referring to a "towed" car...not a tow car. If this is the case, you should be posting in the "Dinghy" forum.
A tow car is one that is "doing" the towing...not "being" towed.
You might try eBay too.
I use a baking soda solution. I mix a small box of baking soda in a 1 gallon water jug and let it dissolve completely and then pour into the tank with about another 5 gallons of water. Drive around a little bit and run the water from the fresh tank through all faucets, toilets, and drains.
Then fill tank with fresh water and do the same with the driving and faucets.
Is there anyway you can get the dealer to weigh the tongue of the trailer? Most all have a Sherline scale that they can use with very little effort on their part. If not, maybe you could purchase your own, not only for this fact finding effort but also for future use. When we had our TT, I had one and used it every time we loaded the trailer for camping. That way, I was always absolutely sure of the trailer's tongue weight and I could adjust moving things around to get pretty close to exactly what I wanted to insure my truck wasn't getting overloaded.
However, if indeed the figures come out like you've estimated.....yep, you'll be overloaded very quickly and I forsee a 3500 in your future.
You are one of the very few new post people that have come on here with the knowledge that payload is the main factor when determining what size trailer you can pull. Very good!
Most here, do recommend using 15% of the GVWR of the trailer as the figure to determine the tongue weight (usually called CYA), but I bet the majority of TT's never get to this high of a percentage.
I don't think you have a choice. Only 101 goes out of port angeles. Head south on 101 to I-5 down to Portland.
101 goes both south and west from there, the western route will follow the coast and the other route would be a more direct route to Portland.
Scenic go west - speed go south
That's what I meant... only one road in or out of PA....101
Highway 20 from 22 down to Sweet Home is doable. However, be prepared for some sharp curves and narrow roads with little or no shoulders. We typically just take 22 to Salem. From there you can either continue on 22 over to 18 to Lincoln City, or go south on I-5 down to 34 and over to reconnect with 20 to Newport. About 20 miles longer on 22, but a much better highway with less sharp curves.