There is absolutely no reason to be spending $1000 to replace the fuel pump in these rigs. I did mine today, by myself, and the cost was $150 for the new pump.
It seems like a huge task, but take your time and really it's disconnect a few fuel lines, return lines, and fill lines, unbolt 6 bolts and pull the tank out. Installing new pump is easy and then reverse.
As the OP outlined, I thought I had all the fuel out and my gauge was below empty, but I still siphoned 10 gallons of fuel out after I pulled it from under the rig.
Really no big deal, just a lot of working on your back on the ground under the rig.
We use the canister behind the sink....works fine. We have also added wire baskets to the walls around the sink to hold items as well as above the door. Above the door we keep the umbrellas, flashlights, and dog leash.
The more I think about it, I'm probably going to drop the tank, but others have posted the access hole method so I have to think about it. One guy had to replace his pump 3 times; so, the access hole was an easy thing for him.
Thanks for the input and I'll let you know how I fair.
Great write-up. Unfortunately, I'm getting ready to follow your path and replace the pump in mine.
I was thinking of cutting a hole under the bed to gain access without removing the tank. Having seen how things work, would I be able to disconnect things and pull the pump out?
Your write-up doesn't sound to hard to pull the tank, but thought since I could conceal the hole, could be an easier option.
I went from a 5ver to a Class C about 7 years ago. Recently, I have been thinking that I wish I would have kept the 5ver. I like the C, but seems like I'm working on it most weekends. It's an older C and fighting the water intrusion issues for several years. Had a trip a couple weeks ago and prior to that getting the C ready noticed that it needed a tune-up and some other things. Scrammbled to get it drivable for the trip. Made the trip, but now I'm thinking a fuel pump is needed; so, will be spending a weekend again fixing that. Of course, everything needs maintenance.
The family really likes the C in terms of traveling and being able to use the bathroom and watching movies while we drive. My biggest issue is when we get where we are going. I'm pretty much stuck and have to rely upon others to drive around. We are looking at adding a tow option, but that opens a whole new world of work and expense.
Looking to someday getting up a setup to tow my wife's Volkswagen Beetle behind my Class C (E350). The Beetle is light and we have it so thinking it is doable.
Ran across a fairly good deal on a used Tow Master Tow Dolly, but it does not have brakes on it. I'm thinking I really should have brakes on the Tow Dolly. Is this a deal breaker?
Wow! When I got mine aligned I talked to all the local farmers in the area about where they get their big trucks aligned and they all told me the same place. I called them up and they said they work on many motorhomes. They quoted $150 for the alignment and told me over the phone that it would likely require extra parts to get the alignment correct, but they had them in stock and would not be a problem. Dropped it off and several hours later they called me and it was done. Never had any problems and didn't have to pay for extra parts, all was included in original quote.
I've got a E350 and was just looking at this yesterday. Both my front seats swivel by pushing a bar under the seat, but I couldn't find any way of rotating them 180 to be able face the rear cabin area. Passengers side, no room because behind it is the dining seat bench. Maybe if that was removed. Drivers side and the "sofa" behind it.
or a seized caliper. I've had that issue and had to replace a caliper. Had an issue a couple months ago. Got stopped in traffic for 3 hours going up and down hills near Branson due to road construction. When I got going finally I swore I had a tire blow out. Called the boys who were driving behind me to see if I had any tires down. The front end was shaking really bad, then all of a sudden stopped and drove line normal. The only thing I can think of is a caliper got seized up due to holding the brakes for 3 hours. I've checked them and they seem to be working now, but keeping a close eye on them.
I should have know better when they originally tested the module. It heated up doing the bench test to the point you couldn't touch the back side. When I questioned this they said that is why they test it 3x in a row to heat it up and see if it will fail.
No problem on the follow-up post. One of my quarks is people that ask for assistance with a problem on some forum and when they fix it, they don't post back as to what fixed the problem.
I would definitely push on those areas and see if they are soft - both above and below. My guess you will probably find some soft spots. If so, there is a leak. You make the call if you want to deal with this, but it will not get any better and will get worse if it is soft. With that said, I put a new rubber roof on a couple years ago myself (what a project). Because I was working by myself, I do have one spot that didn't get enough glue and I didn't get the rubber pulled tight enough on that spot and it looks like that. I keep an eye on it, but hasn't caused any issues so far. But the wood underneath is strong and sturdy.
I wouldn't really describe it as that. I read somewhere that on start up the engine will briefly check the idle speed and may rev up and down and then settle at the proper idle. Not sure what controls that - maybe the IAC. Also kinda sounds like the TPS (throttle position sensor) may not be sending a good signal.
On mine, as soon as you started it you could feel a miss. If you watched the pulley's, you could see the slightest "pause" and the rpm drop and recover. As it warmed up, it got worse, more constant and more severe. Driving it, it would "buck" when accelerating from stop, miss when sitting at stop sign, and occasionally miss at highway speed.
Good luck. It's frustrating trying to figure these things out when you don't have a code to go by. Just about anything could cause something to happen and if the sensors are working they are giving signals to the computer to adjust, it is just that they are trying to adjust for something not running right. Example, a dirty MAF doesn't mean the sensor is bad, so no code. The engine is trying to adjust mixture based on the MAF sending false information. I have had this issue on more than one vehicle and if yours has a MAF, I would start there by cleaning it. The new engines are way more efficient, but sometimes I long for the good old days without all these sensors and a couple adjustments to the carb, fixed most things.
Well, IT'S FIXED! (I hope, knock on wood). Maybe this will help the next guy, so here is my life the last week.
Friday: After reading and researching, I was positive the issue was due to a dirty MAF; so, after work I tore into it looking for the MAF. Well, this vehicle does not have a MAF. I took off the throttle housing and cleaned it out real good. At the same time, took the IAC off and cleaned it up. Installed everything and still there is the miss. Time to regroup.
Saturday: Again, after more research pretty sure it is an ignition issue or a fuel pump issue. I put the fuel pressure gauge on and it is holding steady at 32 psi. Not great, but within spec. (Probably in for a fuel pump in the near future). Engine is missing, but the fuel gauge doesn't show this. Now thinking probably not a fuel pressure issue. Hook up the timing light again and sit for several minutes watching the timing mark jump around every time it misses. I'm thinking at this point many people on the Ford forum said there was an issue with the PIP (Pickup Sensor) in these vehicles. Off to the parts store for a new distributor thinking to myself, I'm just throwing parts at this thing. Put the new distributor in and still the miss. Okay, it seems to get worse as it heats up....ignition module. I find the ignition module behind the battery and off to the parts store. They check the module and it test "good". I return home, put the ignition module back in and think what can cause it to get worse when it heats up...coil? So, off comes the coil and back to the parts store. Can't test it, but I'm running out of options. New coil....still the miss. Okay, time to give up and turn this one over to the professionals. I'm back in the house and I come across this post about the same issue and the guy states he tested his ignition module at two different places and both times showed good, but what eventually fixed his issue. What the heck...I've already spent a small fortune chasing this and it's a shame to replace everything in the ignition system, but the module. So, back to the parts store. By now they don't even ask what vehicle I'm working on. I tell them to give me an ignition module and say what the heck. Back home, installed the new ignition module and wow....no more miss, no more stumble. It is running better than ever (it should). Take it out on a test drive and feels like a new vehicle.
Hope it stays like this and hope this helps somebody else.
I just went down to the parts store and talked to them about getting the codes. They can do it, but said if it isn't triggering the "Check Engine" light, there probably will not be any codes to read. (Yes, mine does not have the check engine light on. I know it works, I unplugged the MAP Sensor and the check engine light came on. Also ran better, but at higher RPM. I put in a new MAP sensor and problem still exists. Again, don't want to throw parts at it. I've read could be just about anything....bad distributor (mine seems tight) to even alternator not putting out enough juice.
Again, appreciate the input....more minds is better than one.
Thanks for the replies.....
Who knows about the gasoline. I've ran 3-4 tanks of gas through it since May. In June ran several tanks and had no issues. A couple days ago put a couple cans of HEET in the tank and injector cleaner. Drove it about 25 miles today low speeds and on highway. Not noticing much at higher speeds but low speeds can feel the buck. Idling in the driveway, can feel and see the "miss".
I'm starting to think it may be a distributor issue like was mentioned, but still open to ideas.
1996 E350 Ford 7.5L
Just noticed a slight "stumble" when in idle or driving. To address, replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Also, changed air filter, fuel filter and checked timing (right on 10 degrees). When driving occasionally the stumble will become very noticeable but has not stalled out. None of the things I've done made it better or worse.
Took it to the lake a month ago and it ran perfect. Came home and parked it with 1/2 tank gas. It's been very hot since then, wondering if got a lot of condensation in tank. Got up the other day and drove it to the gas station and put some gas in it. Following that noticed this stumble. Can't say if it was there before getting gas, but definitely after.
I'm wondering if I might have gotten some bad gas, but fill up other vehicles at same gas station and never had an issue. Today went to another gas station and got 10 gallons of gas and put a couple bottles of Heet in tank and still have the "stumble". Starts fine and idles fine, but occasionally can feel the stumble for a millisecond. I haven't put a code reader on it and the "Check Engine" light is not on.
Thanks for the response...exactly what I needed. Thanks for the pics on the spout. I seen that, but didn't thank that was it. I was looking for something you pull out. Found info on another board about a spout behind the battery that looks like a traditional pull out spout for the ignition timing. I was thinking that was it.