RE: Optronics Lights
Try "superbrightleds.com" should be all kinds come up...and their are many other mfgs. Google "LED replacement bulbs auto"
I tried them way back when....but they had the same socket/plug pigtails....and they got loose and/or corroded....if you use that kind of setup, try using dielectric grease on any outside markers and tails....should help with corrosion...
Sorry---didn't realize you were going for replecement "bulbs" only!
Good luck!
J
RE: Optronics Lights
I ordered my '04 FR CT with optronics LEDs all around, and retro-fitted my TT, PUP, and flatbed with both theirs and Petersen's...in many/most cases I've seen, they both make one-to-one replacement lamps for a lot of OEM lamps from many mfgs.
They are brighter---nite & day, they draw less 12V, and they are waterproof and tough as nails! There are other mfgs., but these two seem most popular...
check out "optronicsinc.com" or "pmlights.com"
J
RE: Blocked gas line
Is there an outside chance you're turning the tank valve on too fast? Some have safety valves which will drastically limit gas flow if turned on fast.
Then---if it's not a mechanically malfunctioning regulator or crimped gas line, it pretty much has to be either a shutoff valve, or foreign object inside the regulator valve or LPG tubing. I'd first try using a little compressed air on the regulator. Then, I'd try getting to the appliance furtherest from the tank and back-flushing the gas line with compressed air, then the next closest, etc..
J
RE: Mildew prevention ????
Does that do much good in a closed-up RV? I only get a hint of mildew if the PUP is closed up for a long time in the summer....seems to me like whatever the moisture is gonna' do as far as mildew, it's gonna' be easier for it to do when it's warm and things can grow better?????? What am I missing?
I've found the calcium chloride does the job in any temperature---even below freezing.
J
RE: Cleaning Suggestions for the "Gritty" Patch on the Stairs?
If ya' wanna' clean the feet before someone enters the rig, use the "scrusher" carpet add-ons---sure, they "squish!" That's how they work!
If ya' just want traction, ya' use the non-skid! Mine wash up quite easily....both my 5 year-old TH and the 13 year-old TT....just use the same Turtle Wax car wash I use on the sides.
So, if you're at a CG with a lot of debris, ya' just add the carpets---they attach with velcro---at least mine do....otherwise, leave 'em off....
J
RE: clorox in black tank?
I agree with the unbelieveable cost factor for replacing the valve.
Back to the OP.....if they used clorox, they killed off all the "natural" bacteria, and eliminated all chemicals that "normally" help the B-tank be odor-free....you just need to start over....there's no apparent reason that whatever you're using for odor control shouldn't control things if used properly....my Thetford porta-potti doesn't have anything objectional in the eway of odor when treated according to directions, and it DOES NOT have a vent!
Unless the RV guys actually removed the tank (did they have to???), there's no logical reason for the tank vent line to have been touched...there's gotta' be more to the story if there's a REAL continuing odor problem....
J
RE: How many volts does a fully charged 12V battery have?
Every deep-cycle mfg. of lead/gel/agm I've seen, recommends NOT going below 12.2V to 12.3V, or 6.2V.....and that's at/about 50% discharge....anything less than that on a regular basis, and you are shortening you're battery life significantly.
As far as charging, here's what Trojan recommends
J
RE: Just bought pup and have a few questions
Hey ams, I'll give you the same suggestions I would to any "new guy!"
When I'm towing in the hills, I use mid-grade or premium gas...manual doesn't tell me to, but performance & mileage is better. I would not ignore what Honda says...particularly if your PUP weight is anywhere near max.
Do you know what it weighs empty? Do you know what it weighs loaded and ready to camp? Ask around for the location of scales....truck stops, local landfill/dump have them----a couple bucks---about $8 at the t-stops....know your weights....don't be intimidated----there are usually instructions posted---you can just ask the operator how to go about it, first, too...
Google and save "The 12 Volt Side of Life." The battery info is limited to primarily lead-acid, which I suspect you have...should help you clear up battery & electrical Qs.
Nothing in the way of "green" sealants I know of---doubt they would hold up to UV and the elements for long.
Taking care of your rig: appliances should all have stickers with mfg., model #, serial #....record that info....you can download manuals at no cost at bryantrv.com.....scroll through the long list.
Green potty treatments? YES. Wally-World, RV parts have 'it.
A cover? You know how to wrap birthday gifts, right?!!!! Make sure everything is clean and dry inside---might even want to remove the cushions and throw 'em in the spare room. Get a tarp and cover your PUP......suggest using rubber bungies to keep it tight. Keep it tight!
Good luck!
J
RE: What to place under wheels during storage?
I've done all of the above with no tire problems. I have a '57 Jeep cab-over (that has never seen street use) with ORIGINAL Dayton snow tires, that's sat on blacktop with tire covers since I bought it in '72---a few minor sidewall cracks, but that's it...plow & haul wood with it year 'round.....
...depending on your local rain/snow, there's probably more to worry about than tires---moist soil, sand, turf under a stored rig can easily add to rusting wheels and frame and accessories---much more than if you lay a sheet of plastic under the rig, or park it on concrete/blacktop....
J
RE: Mildew prevention ????
Clean and dry is the key.
I use a 1-quart spray bottle with a 50/50 mix of vinegar/water....spray roof and awnings, and any other rubber/vinyl trim and caulking....let it sit awhile, and just rinse with water.....let it dry thoroughly. (Hint: mildew starts with spores you can't see. The vinegar---it is naturally acidic---kills the spores before they can grow.)
J
RE: Protecting batteries by connecting to shore power???
Do you know if your "Converter/charger" is a "multi-satge" unit? (Inverters "invert" 12V DC back to 110V AC. However, you MAY have a combo converter/charger/inverter!!!) I'd check the manual to be sure.
If it is a multi-stage charger, there's no problem----these m-s units will take good care of your batteries---probably the next best thing to being indoors on a similar charger.
BUT, I'd still check battery acid level every month to be sure.
(You CAN use an everyday battery charger, or a small solar panel to keep batteries topped off once they are fully charged, but the h-s units will to a FAR better job of giving you long life of your batteries.)
J
RE: Jack Nife clearance between truck and trailer
I don't see how drilling a hole behind the existing one in a 2" square solid piece of metal would make it any weaker or lessen the weight rating of the hitch.
An 11/16" hole through a steel bar and that won't weaken it?
Well, I really beg to differ. The hole would be in front of the other one so the hitch bar sits further out. Now you have less bar inside the receiver and a weak point where the hole is. If it were to be drilled far enough ahead that the old hole sits at the edge of the receiver, then this will drastically reduce the strength.
The whole idea is just not a good one. Far better to buy another hitch bar with a longer reach.
AGREE COMPLETELY with BobsYourUncle....removing almost HALF the bar stock with an 11/16" hole is very risky....can't quote the exact difference, but it's gotta' be significantly weaker----and the longer the bar, the more stress...
J
RE: Just bought pup and have a few questions
I use vinegar and water and a bristle brush to do the vinyl & awnings----many vinyl cleaners of all kinds work well---d-w liquid won't hurt, either-----alowing vinegar to "sit" awhile usually makes mildew easy to remove....but, follow up with a vinyl protectant and make sure it's dry before you store it---available at most auto and RV outlets...tranny cooler for sure.
Enjoy,
J
RE: I need some advice and ideas.
Or, go ahead and winterize, and just fill some 1 gal. milk jugs for flushing and add a gal. of pink stuff to the BW tank....then all ya' have to do is find the dump station......
FWIW: Friends have had the same issue and done it this way----and they added a couple gal. of pink stuff when everyone left, and left the BW tank dump 'til it was warm enough to haul the T out to the dump station. Cold weather shouldn't be a problem as far as odor, anyway---and it won't hurt the tank....
JUST TO BE SAFE, before anything, add a gal. of pink stuff to the BW tank and, WITH THE OUTSIDE DRAIN CAP ON TIGHT, carefully open the BW valve and allow some pink stuff into the BW tank drain tubing, then close the valve.
J
RE: Jack Nife clearance between truck and trailer
This general subject has come up regularly lately.....the receivers and hitch bars/balls are designed for their weight rating....and every mfg. of hitch products I've looked at, either implies or specifically states in some fashion, that modifications void the warranty and rating.....that includes welding and drilling....and that's why most wiring accessories use cable ties or SS clamps to hold the 7-pin receptacles to the receiver.....
There are many "longer" bars for lower weight ratings, but most of the class IV, and V are short because they cannot design/build them longer with 2" X 2" materials and maintain the rating!
Without offending anyone, suggest you operate within the design/weight ratings/size limits of your receiver, bar, and hitch without modifications....the life and/or rig you save may be your own!
J
RE: Bears & Pop-ups!!!
What they don't show in that commercial is the time interval between the time ol' br'er bear STARTS trying to get in, and how long it takes....and that's plenty of time for me to put "my two best friends" into action! Matter of fact, that entire commercial was staged......as mentioned, a little common sense goes a long way...if there's nothing to attract them other than being on their turf, it's a lot less likely they're gonna' try....
AND, tenters and us PUP & HT users need to realize it's a matter of seconds for the bruins to gain access....
J
RE: Winterize in Austin?
If you blow the water lines, drain the HW and FW tanks and low-point drains, run the pump dry, and add a little pink stuff to traps, you should be OK....a couple hpours of easy work, max.....I remove my pump and clean the filter here in NNY, and keep it plugged in for battery maint.....it doesn't hurt to fire up the furnace, followed by running the A/C a few times during the off season, too.
J
RE: Inline Fuse
....and get a small tube of dielectric grease to coat terminal & fuse connections.
J
PS---you'll get a far better price at Defender Industries marine supply, online.
