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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Tow Vehicle Improvements
Here's my $.02 - I tow a 4800# 29' TT with a 2003 Chevy Tahoe with a 5.3L rated at 285 hp and 3.73 gears. It had a cat-back exhaust on it when I bought it so I can't speak for that before/after. I had the same concern as you. It struggles on the hills. I tried a cold air intake and between that and the exhaust the noise was almost unbearable. I took the intake off. Didn't notice any difference in power anyway. I did install a low restriction air filter though and opened up the air box a little.I had the ECM tuned and that made a noticeable difference. That was definitely worth it. But here is my take on it......it's going to slow down in the hills. Just let the motor do it's best and take your time and accept the fact that everyone is going to pass you. Sometimes I find that easing up on the throttle a bit helps rather than planting your foot in it all the time. With that said.....my next truck WILL be a diesel.
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no-logic
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06/13/13 04:37pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Installing RhinoFlex fittings
Just for future reference for anyone else......I heard back from Camco and they said to use Vasoline. It worked. Thanks to everyone who replied.
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no-logic
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06/05/13 06:24am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Installing RhinoFlex fittings
Use silicone greaseIs that something a hardware store would carry?
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no-logic
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06/03/13 08:38am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Awning travel lock necessary?
I just did the search that I should have done before posting. Lots of good ideas. Thanks. Now I just need to decide which one to use.
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no-logic
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06/02/13 09:04am |
General RVing Issues
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Awning travel lock necessary?
We have a 20' Dometic powered awning. I have heard some talk about the possibility of awnings unfurreling while going down the road.....and we all know what a mess that would make. I know our old trailer had a manual awning and we had some straps that were an extra security measure for the possibility of it actually falling open but nothing to keep the awning itself from unrolling. We never had an issue with that one. But on this one the arms are held in the closed position by the motor but again nothing to keep it from unrolling other than the spring. The locks that I have seen for the electric models would keep the actual awning from unrolling but nothing to keep the arms from falling open. Do any of you believe in any kind of travel locks for the electric awnings?
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no-logic
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06/02/13 08:02am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Installing RhinoFlex fittings
This is a genuine Camco RhinoFlex hose. What will the heat do? Soften it up a little?
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no-logic
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06/01/13 06:30pm |
Tech Issues
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Installing RhinoFlex fittings
Well our RhinoFlex hose started leaking and I really liked the type of hose so I removed the fittings and just bought a new length of hose. I found that the fittings are not real easy to screw on to the new hose. They go about half on to the new hose and I can't turn them any further. I tried silicone spray, spray wax, and WD40 and I can't get them to go on any further. Anyone have any tricks?
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no-logic
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06/01/13 11:44am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Flexibility of Furrion power cord
If the 30AMP cord is a bright yellow I suspect that it is a Marinco cord. Not cheap but they are very flexible. I have the Furon 50AMP cord that came with the fiver and it is a bear when it gets cold. I am seriously considering the purchase of a 50AMP Marinco cord. I bought the 50AMP female to 30AMP male cord for those instances when I only have 30AMP service. Much easier to deal with than the 50AMP cord and then a 50 to 30AMP dogbone.
Yup, I was looking at those too. That is probably what I will wind up with.
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no-logic
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02/25/13 11:26am |
Tech Issues
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Flexibility of Furrion power cord
The 30A power cable that came with our new '12 Palomino is very stiff and hard to work with....even in warm weather. I want to replace it with a Furrion cordset but I have never seen or handled one. Does anyone know if the Furrion cables are nice and flexible and easy to work with?
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no-logic
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02/24/13 02:35pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Delamination without water entry?
It's important to realize mot people here, when using the term "delamination" are speaking of side-panels which ARE LAMINATED using glues, internal wall studs, insulation, etc.
Your front cap is NOT a laminated panel - it's a mold formed fiberglass unit without the glues - made by an entirely different manufacturing process. Picture a household fiberglass shower stall, a simple boat hull, etc. It's possible for this laid-up fiberglass cap to separate - either from the framework inside OR within the sparyed glass fibres and resins which make up the cap.
I suggesst you double check with the insurance company - I've never heard of one covering water intrusion damage. Also, be sure WHO is paying for this internal inspection. I suggest you talk with a boat fiberglass repairman for another opinion.
Of course, pictures would be a help!Pictures now would be useless since you can barely see it anymore. The insurance company told me flat out that water damage would be covered. Any other reason for delam would not. But, I believe that hinges on the fact that the roof and seams have been maintained.....which they have.
Are you sure about that front cap construction? I've never heard that before.
And, by the way, we paid for the inspection. But only for now. I'm going to demand that the insurance company reimburse me since this whole process was their idea.
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no-logic
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10/28/12 12:50pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Delamination without water entry?
There is a wardrobe right behind it and the back wall of the wardrobe is solid with no signs of water anywhere. It did sit facing west during the summer months and yes the front is faded and the decals are dried and peeling off. We just brought it back from the dealer after deciding not to dig into it and you can barely tell where it was. It couldn't be water.
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no-logic
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10/27/12 03:38pm |
Travel Trailers
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Delamination without water entry?
Has anyone experienced exterior panel delamination without a leak being the cause? We have delam on the front panel of our '07 Keystone Zepplin and have been going in circles with the dealer, insurance adjuster, and a possible buyer. Apparently our insurance will cover it if it is the result of a water leak. But there are no signs of a water leak anywhere and I have kept up with maintaining the sealer. The front panel has not been removed yet because if there are no signs of water we are stuck with the cost. And the dealer is saying somewhere between $4000 - $4500 to replace the panel and relating repairs. The insurance adjuster wants them to just remove the trim strip on that side and "peek" inside. But the dealer says if it is decided to put it back together at that point that it will not look like it did when we brought it in because things like that usually don't go back together well. (Which I can understand.) So I was wondering what the chances are that is was not caused by a water leak?
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no-logic
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10/27/12 09:34am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Weight on the label vs. actual
Would it say on the yellow sticker if propane is in empty weight or not?
The FMVSS 571 says;
S9.3.2 The weight value for load carrying capacity on the RV load carrying capacity labels (Figures 3 and 4) must be displayed to the nearest kilogram with conversion to the nearest pound and must be such that the vehicle does not exceed its GVWR when loaded with the stated load carrying capacity. The UVW and the GVWR used to determine the RV's load carrying capacity must reflect the weights and design of the motor home or RV trailer as configured for delivery to the dealer/service facility. If applicable, the weight of full propane tanks must be included in the RV's UVW and the weight of on-board potable water must be treated as cargo.Thanks!
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no-logic
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10/22/12 02:39pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Weight on the label vs. actual
The weight of full propane should have been included in the yellow sticker weight.
Ron
on my trailer the weight of full propane (60lbs) is accounted for in the CCC figure. Your correct that propane is not considered cargo so it seems like some mfg show empty weight w/o propane and CCC = GVWR-empty weight- full propane tank weight. In my case CCC weight= 8600-7040-60.
I've seen trailers with propane part of empty weight and some with propane accounted for in the available CCC.Would it say on the yellow sticker if propane is in empty weight or not?
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no-logic
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10/22/12 04:33am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Weight on the label vs. actual
I know what it is supposed to weigh empty and what's included in that weight. I was just wondering if it can be trusted to be fairly accurate.
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no-logic
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10/17/12 05:28pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Travel Trailer Tires - Which Ones And Why?
I put the D rated 14" Kumho's on our last trailer. Never had a problem. I always carry an infrared temp meter and shoot the tires at every gas stop. Proper pressure and don't exceed the load limit....the keys to tire life IMO. The new trailer has Towmaster or some goofy brand. I intend on replacing them with Kumho's before spring.
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no-logic
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10/17/12 03:49pm |
Travel Trailers
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Weight on the label vs. actual
To those of you that have actually weighed their trailer.....Did you find that the weight printed on the specification label on the side is actually what it weighed on the scale? (+/- a few lbs.)
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no-logic
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10/17/12 03:12pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Two grey tanks - can they be linked?
I might have been reading into OP's post but I gathered he was trying to connect so that he could load shed. One tank has a good amount of capacity but little use versus the other tank which fills quickly. Maybe he can clarify what his intent was in connecting the tanks.Basically I am trying to increase capacity before having to dump. The front tank for kitchen sink water would be seldom used. So I would like to be able to fill both tanks from the bathroom sink and shower.
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no-logic
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10/16/12 04:37am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Two grey tanks - can they be linked?
All good info guys. But hard to envision. Anyone have any pictures they would care to share?
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no-logic
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10/15/12 06:34pm |
Travel Trailers
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Two grey tanks - can they be linked?
Our new Palomino T-245 has two separate grey tanks. One is in the back for the shower and bathroom sink. The other is near the front for the kitchen sink water. I know this can't be answered with certainty without knowing the plumbing but....is it feasible to link them together and have them fill and empty as one tank? Or would it be more screwing around than it is worth?
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no-logic
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10/15/12 03:20pm |
Travel Trailers
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