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RE: Trailer brakes lock when I brake from the truck

There are a few things you can check, but I'll start by saying that now that we know you have a built in factory controller, if you can figure out how to check fault codes I would go there first.
http://www.piloteers.org/forums/attachments/2012-2013-pilot/38083d1338397837-7-pole-4-flat-adapter-faq043_tt_500.jpg height=320
Above is an image of the vehicle side of the 7 pin connector. The left side image is looking into the pin connector on your tow vehicle. First thing is to ignore the center pin as it's for backup lights. Now look at the blades arranged in a circle kind of like the numbers on a clock.
You will notice that the 11 o'clock blade is for a brown wire which is the tail and running lights. 1 o'clock is black wire 12V positive, 5 o'clock is your blue brake wire and 7 o'clock is your white ground wire. You might by now also have noticed that there is no brake light wire for the trailer brake lights. This is because when you put on the brakes your tow vehicle basically just turns on both turn signals but doesn't let them flash. So your brake light wires are actually both the green 3 o'clock and the yellow 9 o'clock terminals.
Set your meter to 20v dc volts (or just dc volts if you have an auto ranging meter).
Apply the parking brake and block the wheels on your tow vehicle. Now turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. Now put the black probe on the 7 o'clock blade and the red probe on the 1 o'clock blade. You should get battery voltage. Write down or remember this number. Now move only the red probe and check all the other pins. You should get no voltage on any other pin.
Assuming that the above tests are good, turn on the running lights and measure from the 11 o'clock pin (brown tail running lights) to the 7 o'clock pin (White ground) You should get battery voltage with this measurement or pretty darn well near battery voltage. Now keeping the black probe on the 7 o'clock ground pin, move your red probe down to the 5 o'clock (blue brakes) pin. You should have no voltage on this pin.
Assuming that the above tests are good, turn off the running lights and turn on the left turn signal so it flashes. Now measure from the 9 o'clock pin (yellow left turn) to the 7 o'clock pin (White ground) You should get flashing battery voltage although many meters are not quick enough to display this so if the numbers jump around it's probably good enough. The important part is the next measurement. . Keeping the black probe on the 7 o'clock ground pin, move your red probe down to the 5 o'clock (blue brakes) pin. You should have no voltage or flashing voltage on this pin.
Repeat the above test using the 7 o'clock ground and the 3 o'clock green terminal and the blue 5 o'clock terminal.
If you get no voltage on the blue 5 o'clock brake wire for any test you are probably good with no shorts on the brake light wiring on the vehicle side.
Turn off the turn signals and running lights and get a helper. If you don't have a helper handy, turn off the ignition until you can get a helper.
Keep the engine OFF, but the ignition on so the warning lights are all illuminated on the gauges. place a helper in the drivers seat and go put your black probe on the 7 o'clock ground and the 5 o'clock blue terminals. You should have no or extremely little voltage. Now have the helper just barely move the two squeeze levers together until you get a voltage reading. Did the voltage jump straight up to 9 volts or more? The voltage should ramp up as the levers are squeezed further and further. If the voltage jumps from 0 to 9+ volts with all lights off and no brake pedal pushes, then you most likely have a controller fault. If the voltage seems to ramp up smoothly with the lever being moved, you controller is probably okay. Just as a check have the helper let go of the levers and step lightly on the brakes until the lights come on. You should get voltage, but probably not more than 1.5 volts as the lights come on.
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opnspaces
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06/20/13 12:14am |
Folding Trailers
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RE: Beeping Propane Tanks

Does it have two tanks and does it beep from either tank?
I do remember a few years ago someone reported that theirs had a buzzing type sound and it took new hose pigtails (from tank to regulator) to stop it.
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opnspaces
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06/19/13 10:39pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Batteries going dead

There are a few things that are known to pull battery power even when everything appears to be off.
LPG alarm,
Radio memory,
Refrigerator (on propane)
antenna power booster,
possibly smoke/co alarm,
If the trailer is at home and you have time you could probably try pulling all the fuses in the panel and replace them one at a time over a period of days.
Could there be a light left on in a storage bay that you are not aware of?
Do you have a multimeter that you could use to check amp draw off the battery?
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opnspaces
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06/19/13 11:54am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Trailer brakes lock when I brake from the truck

Hey Obie66, welcome to the forum.
Could be a short between the brake lights and the brake wire for the trailer. Do you have a multimeter or a 12V test light that you can use to do some tests?
Do you have a friend or relative that tows with a 7 pin that you could see if the problem occurs with their vehicle? That would at least allow you to focus on the tow vehicle or the trailer.
You stated
I pulled over, unplugged my trailer plug (round 7 way), disconnected the emergency plug and re-inserted. The problem was gone.
Jeff
How did you disconnect the emergency plug( breakaway switch)? As far as I know the only two parts to the emergency plug are the cable/pin, and a positive wire to the battery. Are you saying you pulled and reinserted the pin?
Or did you disconnect the positive wire to the breakaway switch?
If you pull the power wire for the breakaway switch does the problem go away?
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opnspaces
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06/19/13 11:47am |
Folding Trailers
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RE: Propane tank refilled, cannot get gas flow

If you have two tanks try swapping the tanks side to side to see if it's the hose.
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opnspaces
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06/18/13 11:29am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Why won't 2000w inverter run 900w microwave?

Here's an idea to maybe help MP Soldier as he stated he's not sure about some answers. Take a list of questions with you to Camping world and ask for answers. Then if there are still problems you can post the answers here for a better insight. This is the list I came up with, if I'm missing anything somebody please post it. Camping World might not be happy about a list of questions, but hopefully they will at least fill in some of the blanks.
How long is the feed wire from the batteries to the inverter?What gauge wire is used from the batteries to the inverter?What amperage fuse is in the wire from the batteries to the inverter?Before any testing what is the battery voltage measured with a multimeter at the batteries?Before any testing what is the battery voltage measured with a multimeter at the inverter?With the inverter turned on and the microwave OFF, what is the voltage measured with a multimeter at the 120V AC microwave plug or a nearby plug on the same circuit?With the microwave on heating a cup of water what is the AC voltage?When the Microwave shuts down, what was the AC voltage at the time?When the microwave shuts down, what is the battery voltage measured at the inverter?When the microwave shuts down, what is the battery voltage at the batteries?What are the voltage readings if the above tests are performed while plugged in to shore power?Does a different microwave or other inductive load like a 1,500 watt heater affect the voltage differently?
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opnspaces
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06/18/13 11:25am |
Tech Issues
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RE: How long is my RV?

Well my 27 footer is really 29'6" but it's a Jayco so it's probably not much help. Is this a covered spot, a garage spot, or just a spot on a field? I wonder if they are charging by the foot.
If they are just charging by the foot I would get a quote for a 27,29, and 30 footer and if the prices are acceptable then tell them you'll get the exact length when you go hook it up to pull it over. If they need the length to make sure it will fit, then you're probably going to have to go measure.
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opnspaces
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06/18/13 10:03am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: How long is my RV?

Well my 27 footer is really 29'6" but it's a Jayco so it's probably not much help. Is this a covered spot, a garage spot, or just a spot on a field? I wonder if they are charging by the foot.
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opnspaces
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06/18/13 10:00am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Open Range Roamer window problem

I wonder if the person you talked to didn't fully understand what happened. It sounds to me though like the hole in the trailer might be cut too large.
Is there any sign of damage on the front of the trailer or on the window frame itself?
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opnspaces
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06/18/13 09:03am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 2000 Coleman PUP heater/furnace?

I believe the knob you are describing is just to control how often the compressor cycles. So the further you turn it toward red, the closer the output air is to ambient temperature.
I guess you could try it on a cool night and crank the knob to full red. Then see if you get actual heat output.
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opnspaces
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06/18/13 08:48am |
Folding Trailers
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RE: 2000 Coleman PUP heater/furnace?

You could try looking at the outside of the trailer for a heater exhaust. It will have one or two circular metal holes
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LsRIH2DjSHo/TjST9jn-4uI/AAAAAAAABEA/jTTKNgN2HaU/s1600/FurnaceSuburbaExhaustAssy.jpg height=200
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-whqVeFHroNc/TjSUHszffSI/AAAAAAAABEE/9EeXepxl9c4/s200/Furnace7.jpg height=200
If the exhaust exists then look on the inside of the trailer where th exhaust sits.
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opnspaces
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06/17/13 10:10pm |
Folding Trailers
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RE: 2000 Coleman refrigerator/propane issues

On mine I can hear it once it's lit. It's kind of a dull roar if I put my ear near the vent. You can also probably see the blue flame once lit.
I second lighting the stove first to purge any air out of the propane line.
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opnspaces
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06/17/13 10:01pm |
Folding Trailers
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RE: 2000 Coleman PUP LP gas tank bracket

Agreed, the "J" hooks over the top ring on the tank, and the threaded portion goes through a hole in the tongue and is held on with a wing nut from the bottom. link
Edit, if you have the short J bolts, the J portion goes through a hole in the skirt on the bottom of the tank and the threaded portion goes again through a hole in the tongue.
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opnspaces
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06/17/13 09:52pm |
Folding Trailers
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RE: rebuilding of a roof

If you can't get a document it might not be too bad to wire it yourself. What is on the roof that needs power? If just a few lights and a fan then you can probably run two 12 gauge wires up one of the roof posts. Do you still have to old wiring? That can give you a clue on what to do. I would carve a groove in the foam insulation and run the wires in a hard plastic conduit inside the grooves. Then put a thin wood on as the finished ceiling and covering the foam and groove.
But ultimately run a black wire up and T off of it for the positive side of any lights or the fan. This is parallel wiring. Also run a white wire up and T off of it for the all negative connections on the accessories.
Is there a rooftop AC?
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opnspaces
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06/17/13 07:20pm |
Folding Trailers
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RE: EZ Open Handle

That's an interesting idea. Like Lynnmor I assumed it was just a pull handle until your clarification.
I wonder when they're going to come out with the motion controlled automatic door. Now that would be cool. Well at least until a bear walked by smelling dinner and the door obligingly opens wide. :E :B
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opnspaces
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06/17/13 02:23pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: hitch blocked by another trailer

127 replies and counting and still the OP refuses to tell us the rest of the story?? Time to close this thing up!
Why close it? The thread will fall out of favor like all the others and fade off into the archives.
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opnspaces
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06/14/13 10:03pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Tightening Air Condition Gasket

No pictures, but if you remove the four screws holding the ac grating on the ceiling you will see the four bolts. Just give them a bit of a turn probably not more than 1/2 to 1 turn and put the grating back up.
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opnspaces
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06/14/13 03:30pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Takena 1865 design flaw?

I tend to not alter or modify anything. It's not that I'm not capable, I just don't like to change stuff that is already there. In your case I would probably not think too much about throwing a duffel bag full of clothes on the floor to hold the door open while driving. If the door rubs on a wall while open I would throw one of the couch pillows behind it to hold it away from the wall.
The only direction of motion that is really a concern is motion from the back of the trailer to the front. This is because the brakes will be the strongest force causing things to slide forward. Next would be acceleration forces, but I only see that as a problem with a big truck and a small trailer. I can tell you there is no way my 3/4 ton Suburban is going to be able to accelerate fast enough to make anything slide rearward in the trailer. After that I think the side to side movement is almost non-existent. Unless you're cornering like an F1 racer, I don't think anything is going to move too much.
Put something soft on either side of the open door while in transit and don't give it a second thought.
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opnspaces
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06/14/13 10:29am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Our new TT is FINALLY here! - Help with our first trip out

I say take whatever distance trip you want. Sure we always recommend camp driveway, but that's not by any means mandatory. If you've done any camping at all then you can always just consider the trailer as a large comfortable tent and pack accordingly. Then if anything doesn't work you will still be camping and still have sleeping arrangements and food/water.
The most important thing is to make sure EVERYTHING works when going through your PDI at the dealer. Don't sign anything until you either have a due bill for any broken items, or the item is fixed. You would be surprised how fast they can will get on any repairs if the money for the purchase is still firmly in your pocket. Once you sign on the dotted line many dealers get a bit lazier about fitting in your repair.
Make sure to start the refrigerator on Propane or an extension cord at least 8 hours before you start loading it. Also pre-chill everything in your home refrigerator before you load it.
If you get a full hookup site I would recommend traveling with some water in the fresh tank. Once on the site hook everything up and make sure it all works still. Then turn off the water spigot and flip the breaker on the power pole and make sure everything works. If you run out of water or power just go ahead and turn on the spigot or flip the breaker.
Good luck and go have fun in the new trailer. :)
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opnspaces
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06/14/13 09:48am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Jayco Water Pump Question

I guarantee you that you have a water pump. Just hook up your batteries and the turn on the water pump switch on your monitor panel. It'll start pumping and making noise. If there's no water in your tank though it will never shut off on it's own, you'll have to flip the switch.
Once you put water in the tank it will cycle on and off as needed.
On mine it's under the bottom kitchen drawer, but yours could be anywhere.
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opnspaces
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06/13/13 10:25pm |
Travel Trailers
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