RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'opnspaces' found 505 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 26  
Prev  |  Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Positive or Negative to Battery switch

Beemerphile1 and Wgriswold have it correct. You have a trailer (5th wheel) and that has an emergency breakaway switch wired into the circuit. If the trailer becomes disconnected from the truck the brakes will engage and hopefully stop the trailer before it kills somebody. Considering the breakaway needs 12v to engage you have to interrupt the positive side of the power BUT wire the breakaway around the cutoff and directly to the battery. This ensures that the emergency brakes will work regardless of whether you remember to engage the cutoff switch before towing. There is no parasitic load from the breakaway switch, it's just an on/off switch. If you interrupt the ground your emergency switch power will not get back to the negative terminal of the battery unless you run a separate ground wire. But this will also allow the rest of the coach to use that same ground wire effectively negating the cutoff in the first place. As someone else said in the automotive world they switch the ground, but in this case you need to properly disconenct the positive to be safe.
opnspaces 04/21/15 03:45pm Tech Issues
RE: New 29' travel trailer dog walking

Based on your description you're not over reacting. But here's another suggestion. Can you have a friend follow you and record the trailer pulling off center as you drive down the road?
opnspaces 04/20/15 11:22pm Travel Trailers
RE: Reversed Polarity and Open Ground

Why are so many so hasty to declare the OP's surge protector as faulty? As pointed out in that No Shock Zone article I linked to earlier any of these surge protection devices can be fooled if there's sufficient voltage differential between the source neutral and ground ... so who's to say definitively that this isn't happening in the the OP's case? Have they checked? Have they even bothered to check the source with a polarity checker that would instantly indicate any wiring errors? I'll bet not, and I'd also bet that any differential that may exist is varying, which would explain why the surge protector is sometimes fine with it, other times not. As for the surge protector itself "failing", perhaps it has, meaning perhaps in the past it's been subjected to an excessive surge and has in fact done it's job by sacrificing itself, protecting the trailer's electrical system. The OP seems to be awfully concerned that "the $450 surge protector that has lasted 18 months" has failed where in reality it may have actually done exactly what it was designed to do. To the OP - rather than continue on with these online WAGs call the manufacturer with the details of the unit you have and ask someone who does understand how their device is supposed to work. Good grief! :S I'm with SoundGuy on this one. I would buy or borrow an outlet tester they are less than $10 and come in handy from time to time. http://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0 height=300 Link Or this one that can also be used to test GFCI's. Link Plug the tester into a 30/15 amp adapter and plug it into the garage outlet. Do the LED's on the tester say the wiring is reversed? If not then remove the protector and plug the trailer directly into the garage wall. Now go plug the tester into an outlet in the trailer and see what it says. If the tester says the outlet is good then the surge protector did it's job and now needs to be replaced. If the tester shows a problem then the surge protector is doing it's job and the problem needs to be fixed in the trailer. After this the OP should use the adapter and tester to test the campground pedestals every time before he plugs in his trailer. If the OP lived anywhere near me I would drive over with one of my many outlet testers and test his setup for him.
opnspaces 04/18/15 10:09am Travel Trailers
RE: Well, the Trim is fixed-I hope....lol

I'll bet the putty tape being new and pliable will seal up around the threads of the screws. If you're still a bit nervous about it you could pull the screws one at a time and add some sealant and screw them back in. Personally I would probably leave it as is though.
opnspaces 04/18/15 09:46am Travel Trailers
RE: Water Pressure

Contrary to what everybody else suggests I believe your overflowing toilet is completely related to your low pressure problem. It sounds like you have an internal blockage in the RV as the pump won't run and the city water is slow. My guess is something like sand or other debris is in the line and plugging all the aerators. This same something also jammed the toilet valve open causing the leak and overflow. Start at the outside of the RV. Disconnect the water hose from the trailer and turn on the spigot. Is there pressure at the hose? If you have a garden sprayer try attaching it to the hose end and seeing if you have pressure. Next look at the screen on the city water hookup and see if it has any debris in it. Don't remove the screen and press the pin in the center of the fitting or it will usually dislodge the o-ring and you'll have to replace the fitting. If everything still looks good reconnect the hose turn on the spigot and go inside the trailer to where the city water connection comes in. Look at the hosing there and see if anything looks amiss. If not move on to the faucet closest to the city water inlet. Unscrew the aerator from that faucet and see if you get any water flow. If it has low pressure let it run for a bit and see if the blockage comes out. If you do have good flow with the aerator removed you're going to have to remove all the aerators and flush out the lines. Don't forget the outside shower and also drain the water heater. Once the system is clear disconnect the water hookup from the campground spigot and turn on a sink to drain the pressure out of the lines. Now turn on the water pump and see if it comes on.
opnspaces 04/18/15 09:36am Travel Trailers
RE: haulin a generator

My generator ride in the trailer on the floor just behind the couch. Other times it's in the front storage compartment. I always put the generator in the storage compartment at night. That puts it right under my head while I'm sleeping and I've never noticed any fuel fumes.
opnspaces 04/18/15 01:25am General RVing Issues
RE: 2007 Coleman Fleetwood Utah converter help

Coleman went out of business a few years ago so no point in calling them. But you might try Randy at bestconverter.com 888.828.1893 I've seen many posts on here about people who were very satisfied after they called him. He might be familiar with you unit or able to suggest a good replacement.
opnspaces 04/17/15 10:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Child/baby seat confusion

I looked at my local Walmart and they have forward facing child seats from $176 to upwards of 400 dollars for the really fancy ones. Target is another national brand that has reasonably priced seats Check out this page from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The type of seat that people have been referring to is the Forward Facing car seat in yellow box second from the left. Just under the pictures is a link to select a car seat based on your child's age and size. Link As far as buckling the seat in the van, it's as simple as sliding the buckle through the back of the seat and clicking it to the buckle. then have your husband put his knee into the seat and add some weight while you tighten the belt. then just leave it secured there for the trip.
opnspaces 04/17/15 09:52pm Beginning RVing
RE: Equal-i-zer head identification

Well I learned something today, I didn't realize they had a hitch that large. But at any rate as you say based on the website you have a 400/4,000 lb hitch. For grins I just measured the sockets on my 1,000/10,000 hitch and they are 1 3/8 inches (35 mm) across. If your sockets are the same size you'll have to wait for Progress mfg. But I would say if they are smaller then you definitely have the wrong hitch.
opnspaces 04/17/15 09:34pm Travel Trailers
RE: Reversed Polarity and Open Ground

Sorry, I don't have an answer, but I'm curious. Does your shore power cord have the factory end on it? Are you using any kind of adapter anywhere on the shore power? Does this happen if you plug in at home as well as at the campground?
opnspaces 04/17/15 04:36pm Travel Trailers
RE: Equal-i-zer head identification

I've never heard of a 4,000lb Equal-i-zer hitch. A call to Progress mfg will probably answer your questions though. I imagine they will ask you to measure the size of the square sockets as I believe they use different size bars and therefore different size sockets for the different ratings. Phone: 801-377-9599 Toll Free: 800-478-5578 Mail: Progress Mfg. Inc. 533 S. 500 W. Provo, UT 84601 USA Email: info@progressmfg.com
opnspaces 04/17/15 04:33pm Travel Trailers
RE: Lighting on trailer

Sounds like a grounding problem. The brake lights are grounding through the headlight circuit and turning the lights on kills the ground. My guess though is it's not the headlights themselves that are killing the ground. I'll bet it happens if you just turn on the running lights but leave the headlights off. First thing I would do is grab a long wire or a set of battery jumper cables. Temporarily connect a ground wire from the trailer to the tow vehicle and see if all the lights work. Next pull the bulbs out of the taillight housing and inspect them. Do they both have a dual filament or did somebody force a single filament bulb into the socket? Inspect the sockets and housing and make sure they aren't melted and the contacts in the socket are free to move and spring back if you push them. If there is a ground connection in either light housing then make sure it's tight. Try running a separate ground from the outside of the light socket to a ground on the trailer. See if the lights now work with the headlights on. Do the running lights work correctly?
opnspaces 04/12/15 04:15pm Travel Trailers
RE: Spray foam for travel trailer ceiling and walls?

Hey 72cougarxr7 welcome to the forum. We had a member Spike99 a while ago that did just that. Normally I hate to say use the search engine, but in this case I can give you enough of a lead to make the search possibly easy. Click on advanced search, type spray foam into the key words field, type Spike99 into the message box, and on the date posted box click the dropdown and select archive - over one year ago. Make sure you click the search button on the bottom of the screen as just pressing enter will not work and clears the screen. Here's a few links to get you started based off that search. Link Link
opnspaces 04/11/15 10:51am Travel Trailers
RE: slotted/drilled brake rotors

I do not have them. I would guess that they make no difference unless you're racing down mountains towing a trailer with the brake controller disconnected. For a normal street vehicle they are not going to have any positive effect and most likely will have a slight negative effect as there is less surface area for the pads to grab. All that being said, in reality you probably won't notice one bit of a difference positive or negative except that your wallet will be a bit lighter.
opnspaces 04/11/15 10:35am Travel Trailers
RE: Best hitch for highwall toy hauler pup?

I would look at the receiver on your tow vehicle and see if there is a sticker stating the capacities of the hitch. If it's not there then try the owners manual. I would guess that your hitch is rated for 500lb weight carrying only and 1,000lb weight distribution. Based on your tongue weight you might need weight distribution. I'll bet that you don't need sway control on that trailer, especially if you load things on the front deck.
opnspaces 04/11/15 10:29am Folding Trailers
RE: Former or Inactive members

I always liked Mousefarts posts. I believe he still posts, just under a different name. Remember Rubiranch? He drove an old ford and pulled an old trailer. I think he eventually had a run in with a moderator or two and decided to quit posting. Sooperduty formerly FordSooperDuty and before that FordSooperDootyDieselSmoker. My guess is he's still on here just under a different name that doesn't contain Sooper in it. LAdams, yep I miss his posts and contributions. Mike4947 (I think those were the numbers) moderator on the folding trailers forum. He was a fountain of knowledge and to this day I read posts that we're struggling to help with and I think "man we could use Mike4947 right about now". Then there are a bunch of us who used to post a lot and slowed way down recently. I know for me life just got in the way and I'm reduced to mostly reading the posts and maybe only posting once every other day.
opnspaces 04/08/15 11:01pm General RVing Issues
RE: vacuum test

probably doesn't mean anything except that the port you're plugged into is ported vacuum (right in the venturi or very close) Or if the air filter is still installed it might be restricted. Remember the pistons going down are trying to pull the air in through the carburetor and the butterfly in the carburetor is restricting the airflow causing a vacuum between those two points. When you floor the accelerator pedal the butterfly goes wide open and the air rushes into the manifold faster than the pistons can pull it out so the vacuum goes to zero until the engine catches up.
opnspaces 04/08/15 10:32pm Tech Issues
RE: BE CAREFUL with your 120V side of things

Most of us that think we been shocked by 120 volts are dreaming. A full 120 volts thru any part of your body, can and will kill you deader than hell ! Or you could get off lucky w/ just your finger blowed off. Getting shocked is one thing, but completeing the circuit between the black and the white/bare is a story you may not live to tell about. I've been shocked by both and fortunately I'm still here. 240v was helping a friend weld with an old Lincoln arc welder. There was an uncovered screw sticking off the side of the clamp that held the electrode. He knew it was energized and pressed it up against my bare shin (yes I was welding in shorts) and that shock HURT. :E I remember I was holding a large combination wrench in my hand at the time and almost cracked him in the head for that. I've been shocked multiple times by 120v thought the most recent was definitely a dumb Darwin award worthy trick. I had a digital meter and was checking a power cord looking for how people were getting shocked when unplugging it. I got bored or maybe I lost focus, I'm not sure which. I put the red lead in the positive slot on the cord. Then I grabbed the bare black lead in my other hand. I don't remember what I was thinking, but it sure got my attention.:M
opnspaces 04/08/15 10:24pm Tech Issues
RE: seeking advice: 4+ accessory repairs on a 19 year old RV

I asked at my usual RV shop what level the CO detector should be at and he thought up high, so I asked why they had all these combined LP and CO detectors for sale, and where should they go? He shrugged, and said personally, he would have two different ones so the LP could be at floor level and the CO higher. I have no clue what is the correct answer on that, but that is what we now have. The previous CO up high and the new LP alarm down low. LPG is heavier than air so the detector is mounted low. CO is slightly lighter than air, but the difference is so miniscule that the usual recommendation is to mount around mid wall. Follow the directions that come with the new detector for your safety.
opnspaces 04/08/15 10:03pm Tech Issues
RE: seeking advice: 4+ accessory repairs on a 19 year old RV

ok, this is a lot for me to ask, but I know some folks will be there for me, as time permits. We bought the 1996 Coachmen RV van two weeks ago in a somewhat competitive as-is/great price rush, so I knew we would have a few repairs and upgrades to consider. The 19 year old Coachmen Chevy van is new to us. I have at least some repair sense, having old cars for many years, but RVs and their accessories and appliances are new to us. Here are the things I am working on; any advice will be appreciated; thanks in advance: -older vent fan on roof, doesn't work, doesn't look that great, probably needs re-sealed; I just went ahead and purchased the standard fantastic-fan, I'll figure out the installation from online info and videos. Curious if this has its own 12v fuse? The old fan likely had a fuse. Easy test would be to ground the power wire for a half second and see if a fuse pops. Don't leave it grounded long though in case it's not fused. -carbon monoxide and propane sensors (long, narrow individual styles mounted over and under each other) - look original - were disconnected. I connected them today, both go on, one tests well, other questionable on test (no alarm). Online info says replace after 5 years. These are likely as old as the van. They are expensive I see, but life is precious. Any confirmation that it is time to replace? run, don't walk to buy replacements? They should both be replaced. -trying to figure why the gas water heater seems to heat whenever the coach power is on, whether or not the heater switch is on - could this be a broken switch, always on (even though it is a gas heater)? Does it decide on its own to ignite? Today I was not sure it turned itself on, but previous says I think it did.Sorry I would be guessing on this. -3 way refrigerator trips the breaker within about 60 seconds or less every time on 120 power when plugged in, but works fine long term on 12V when plugged in or van running. Have not tested on gas yet, but 120 power trips the breaker again and again. Probably a bad ac heater, I don't know if they are repairable but I would see if I could figure it out if it was mine. -microwave runs 3 to 5 seconds then stops. On low power it ran 8 seconds maybe. It is not tripping a breaker, just stops running (and clock starts flashing as if power went out). I thought it was tripping breaker at first, but now realize it is just stopping, and I just need to re-set clock. I assume I need a microwave repair, or replacement, but want to figure out which. Nothing suspected in coach, or breaker box (I don't think?). well it's either the microwave or the wiring. Can you find the microwave plug (look in the cabinets next to it), unplug it and plug it into a heavy duty extension cord to your house. Now see how it works. -last item is just general water-proofing, leak sealing. I figure, just look for moisture or wetness after rain, remove old sealant as needed, use new sealant as needed. reseal anything that looks cracked or is lifting off the surface. thanks again for any advice, sorry to have the long list, but figured I would throw it all on the table. God Bless America, the open road, and the freedom of RV's!
opnspaces 04/08/15 09:57pm Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 26  
Prev  |  Next

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2015 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS