I will look at the flow restrictor in the shower heads. Also with the shower head removed, the pump does not cycle on and off, it stays on. Course it will go thru a lot of water without the shower head....
Camping World has the roof vent/hood for the range. If you are talking about the one on the side of the trailer that the oven fan vents out to. It is about $9-10. I am assuming they would also have the shower door cover.
With the shower head removed, it does not do the hot and cold cycle. It stays at whatever temperature I set it at. So, I have replaced the shower head with 3 different shower heads, every shower head does the hot/cold cycle. what do I do?
Recently upgraded to a 2006 Sunnybrook 31BWKS. When taking a shower, with a full and hot, hot water tank. The shower starts out hot, then, the water pump kicks on, and it goes very cold. Water pump turns off, gets hot again, water pump turns on, goes very cold.
The dealers service department has looked at it twice, they say all the valves in the water lines are open as they should be. They claim it is part of the water saving feature, that the pump does NOT run constantly when the shower is on. And also claim the hot and cold is because my shower head is not mixing the water properly. I replaced the shower head and still have the same issue.
Is this normal, and can someone please please please give me a clue as to what is going on?
Recently purchased a Sunnybrook 5th wheel. I have an area 32" wide, by 23" high, by 7" deep. There is an additional clearance of 3" forward of that before the slide would be in the way. I have toyed with putting in an electric fireplace. However, I know nothing about them. Any input would be most appreciated. I am currently supplementing my LP furnace, with a Lasko 1500 watt ceramic swivel heater. I am looking for more heat output, and something a little more classy than having a heater in the middle of my living room. Please feel free to give me any advice you know of!
Welcome to the fun world of RV'ing. If you run into any problems, this is a great site to get advice, and help. Great deal on the trailer, hope you and your family enjoy many trips together, my wife and our daughter certainly do!
Just make sure when you install the new valve, that the rubber seals on either side on not pinched, bent, or stuck on the bayonet valve. Learned this lesson the hard way. It caused my black and gray valves to never seal, and always have back up at the drain cap. Use vaseline, or some type of heavy grease to hold the seals in place on either side of the valve, then install the new valve, insuring the seals stay in place. Should take car of the nasty non-sealing problem, like I ran into to. Otherwise they are easy to change, might be harder to get to them depending on your trailers under body insulation.
I do the same as Dtaylor, I level first on blocks if needed, with the slide side slightly higher, as it will "settle" some, then extend the slide, and do a final level with my stabilizers. I am somewhat nervous about tweaking something by putting out the slide, then leveling. I have never had an issue doing it this way.
EDIT: I posted the below before I read the post right above this.
GAH! Got to pay better attention to things.
Another option, is to get a "jetpack" or a mobile wi-fi router. I have one through verizon, and it requires a password to accees it. Therefore you are limiting it to only people you give the password to. I use it on my laptop when we are travelling for netflix, going online, etc.
Everything! A/C, Microwave, Small jets, satelites, Toyota Prius. hahaha. With that kind of generator, you would be ok to pretty much all your trailer needs. I would really consider the noise output though. While some of the newer ones are pretty quiet, would still think that might be a tad loud for others. Just my thoughts.
I have had the same issue is my sunnybrook, and thought of the same thing. What about using some type of serrated nail. If that makes sense. I have pulled my trim strips down to run the stereo wiring, and never had an issue re-attaching them. But, I have noticed in mine, the panels also appeared to be glued on. I would think Liquid Nails would work fine. Only problem is if you ever need to pull the panels, they will be destroyed from the glue sticking.
"Both leak. The cap on the end is all that keeps a puddle from forming under the outlet."
I recently replaced both my tank valves, with the Valterra ones. Be very careful when installing these, or any other cable operated valves. There are certain clearances for the cable to operate correctly, and close all the way. Also, you will almost have to disassemble the valve body to install it on your unit. If not done right, it can crimp the seal, causing leakage. Don't ask me the details of how I know this, had to shower twice to get rid of the mess. Once you figure it out, it is pretty easy to install though. Just take your time.
I don't know about converted per se. But, you can buy both cable operated, and just standard pull valves at Camping World. Cable operated is handy, whereas the handle only would require crawling underneath my trailer to drain my tanks. I am sure that is why a lot of trailers come with the cable operated, due to where the valves are mounted.
I can't speak to their trailers, but, I owned a Lance Max 11' Camper for many years. Never, ever, ever had a single issue with them, other than the solar panel system. It would not charge, and discovered a corroded connection on the roof. After cleaning the connection, all was well. The camper had a slideout that really expanded the inside. I went everywhere with it, up mountains, through gravel pits, smooth roads, rough roads, everywhere. Again never had an issue with construction, or anything. If their trailers are of the same standard as the camper, you will have a good trailer there. I have had 2 other campers before the Lance, and was very happy with the Lance, and the quality of the unit.
As far as removing the tub, and putting in a shower pan, I have remodeled a couple of campers and trailers in my time, it is not hard to do, just need to be careful, and plan your steps well. I recently had to completely gut my bathroom due to a water leak, then fix the leak and install new flooring, plumbing, shower pan, shower surround, toilet, etc. All together it was about a week job, but, that was just a few hours here and there during the week, then all one day on the weekend.
An additional consideration might also be how long you can run these items through an inverter, before it takes so much power out of your batteries that other 12v items don't work. Such as heater, fridge circuit board, lights, etc.
I have the same control unit pictured above that skipnchar posted. There is a delay on mine. When turned on, and switched to A/C, it takes a bit for the signals to process, the satelites to align, and then it kicks on. Might try what other postes have said, and just switch it, then wait. And if your are getting any kind of display on the LCD panel, then obviously it is turned on.