I can't speak to their trailers, but, I owned a Lance Max 11' Camper for many years. Never, ever, ever had a single issue with them, other than the solar panel system. It would not charge, and discovered a corroded connection on the roof. After cleaning the connection, all was well. The camper had a slideout that really expanded the inside. I went everywhere with it, up mountains, through gravel pits, smooth roads, rough roads, everywhere. Again never had an issue with construction, or anything. If their trailers are of the same standard as the camper, you will have a good trailer there. I have had 2 other campers before the Lance, and was very happy with the Lance, and the quality of the unit.
As far as removing the tub, and putting in a shower pan, I have remodeled a couple of campers and trailers in my time, it is not hard to do, just need to be careful, and plan your steps well. I recently had to completely gut my bathroom due to a water leak, then fix the leak and install new flooring, plumbing, shower pan, shower surround, toilet, etc. All together it was about a week job, but, that was just a few hours here and there during the week, then all one day on the weekend.
An additional consideration might also be how long you can run these items through an inverter, before it takes so much power out of your batteries that other 12v items don't work. Such as heater, fridge circuit board, lights, etc.
I have the same control unit pictured above that skipnchar posted. There is a delay on mine. When turned on, and switched to A/C, it takes a bit for the signals to process, the satelites to align, and then it kicks on. Might try what other postes have said, and just switch it, then wait. And if your are getting any kind of display on the LCD panel, then obviously it is turned on.
Also check the RV dealers lot for recent trade ins, that are not posted yet. I have bought several units that way, pretty inexpensively. Some have required some work, but, all were below what they would have asked for after they inspect them, clean them, and list them.
Also, how old is the battery? And, has it been fully charged then load tested? An internally shorted/bad battery will not properly charge, and will give erroneous readings. If the battery is good, all the above advice is excellent! However, starting off with a bad battery, will not make any of the above advice help you at all. And don't assume an auto shop will properly recharge a battery. A lower amperage and longer time to charge is best. Generally, auto shops do a high amp quick charge time which only gives you what I would call a "surface" charge, not the deep charge that a deep cycle battery needs.
c3saving, that is the funniest post I have read in a long time! Thanks for the advice/laughs!!! We are considering a trip to California Disney, but, I am sure all the advice crossing over to pretty much any trip, to any place.
The nice thing about a slide, is the extra room it gives you. The bad thing is the increase in maintenance for the slide, seals on the slide, slide awning. That being said, I hve had both a Lance Camper, and now a 2001 Sunnybrook Trailer, with slides, and have had no problems with either one in all the time. I do check the slide, seals, and awning occasionally to make sure everything is ok. So overall, I like the slide, and they are not really more of a hassle.
I am in the process of remodeling my Sunnybrook trailer, it also has the black plastic looking piece underneath it. What I discovered is my holding tank valves were leaking, and puddling above the plastic. My holding tanks are right above it. I am wondering if that is the same situation you have.
digmed, you might also want to consider what your are going to be using your trailer for. If you are planning on spending any time in it, NOT plugged into shore power, then you are relying on the batteries to run your lights, refrigerator circuit board, heater fan, etc. If this is the case, I would really recommend looking into a couple of camper, or "house" batteries, deep cycle, and make sure they are properly installed, and wired in. And, while your tow vehicle, in a perfect world, will trickle charge your batteries, over time. You do not want to rely on the tow vehicle as your only means of running power to your trailer.
This sight is a great place to get help and advice, and also check out the link that Dennis M M posted. Read everything you can, and ask all the questions you want, we are all here to help each other.
Never mind. I went back and looked at it again, I forgot about the vanity sink-on the drivers side-also has a vent tube. GAH! Now I have to figure out how to get that one out. It does not vent through the roof, just a little vent tube coming out of the tank, and ending in the cabinet below the sink. Sheesh I feel stupid!
While trying to drop my gray tank, on a 2001 Sunnybrook 30'. It seems like there is something on the drivers side of the tank keeping it from dropping. The tank vent on the passenger side has been disconnected. I am wondering is there 2 vents? I looked on my roof, and don't see another vent for it, but, something is definitely keeping it from sliding forward, and down on the driver side. It appears to be a flat top tank, and I am unable to find any info on line for pics on it. I would really really appreciate any help. This is the last part to take out before I start my plumbing repairs.
There are no bolts, but, it is not moving. It is a U shaped channel, with the U facing up to the tank, and even with mirror, I can't see into it. It almost feels welded, but, I can't tell, and there are no welds on the outside of the U. Without dropping the black tank it won't slide over the bar and out. And I am NOT dropping the black tank. If I have to I will cut the bar, and weld in a new one. But, was hoping not to have to go that route. Thanks for the replies.
I am in the process of remodeling my bathroom due to a broken water pipe. I installed Allure laminate wood flooring. While reading the brochure, it very specifically states it is NOT intended for travel trailer use. That being said, the main problems with laminate or pergo, is they require a reasonably constant temperature to prevent them from separating, or buckling. For a small area such as my bathroom, which is about 5X5, I am not to concerned about that. For a larger area, like a living room, you might want to go with padave's advice and stick with linoleum. It is more resistant to temperature fluctuations that you will experience, and padave is right, laminate is quite a bit heavier than linoleum. As far as the hot water heater, I would really think about replacing it, you never know when you are going to want hot water. Might seem like not such a big deal now, but, I know when we are camping we want hot water at times. I don't know about patching it, never had to deal with that.
I have to drop my gray tank to fix a broken pipe. I removed the forward most support that bolts to the frame. However, there is a mid tank support that I can't figure out how to remove. Does anyone know if these are welded to the frame? No amount of hitting it seems to loosen it. I am at the point that I am going to cut the support, and install a different one. If someone knows if it is just jammed into the frame, or welded into the frame I would really appreciate the help. Thanks in advance!
I installed an AM/FM/CD/AUX stereo in my trailer, that did not come with a stereo at all. You can buy an amplified antenna that mounts inside a cabinet that works very well. Don't have to drill through the roof. It uses a standard 12V+, and grounds through the stereo if your are looking for a radio antenna.