Welcome to the fun world of RV'ing. If you run into any problems, this is a great site to get advice, and help. Great deal on the trailer, hope you and your family enjoy many trips together, my wife and our daughter certainly do!
Just make sure when you install the new valve, that the rubber seals on either side on not pinched, bent, or stuck on the bayonet valve. Learned this lesson the hard way. It caused my black and gray valves to never seal, and always have back up at the drain cap. Use vaseline, or some type of heavy grease to hold the seals in place on either side of the valve, then install the new valve, insuring the seals stay in place. Should take car of the nasty non-sealing problem, like I ran into to. Otherwise they are easy to change, might be harder to get to them depending on your trailers under body insulation.
I do the same as Dtaylor, I level first on blocks if needed, with the slide side slightly higher, as it will "settle" some, then extend the slide, and do a final level with my stabilizers. I am somewhat nervous about tweaking something by putting out the slide, then leveling. I have never had an issue doing it this way.
EDIT: I posted the below before I read the post right above this.
GAH! Got to pay better attention to things.
Another option, is to get a "jetpack" or a mobile wi-fi router. I have one through verizon, and it requires a password to accees it. Therefore you are limiting it to only people you give the password to. I use it on my laptop when we are travelling for netflix, going online, etc.
Everything! A/C, Microwave, Small jets, satelites, Toyota Prius. hahaha. With that kind of generator, you would be ok to pretty much all your trailer needs. I would really consider the noise output though. While some of the newer ones are pretty quiet, would still think that might be a tad loud for others. Just my thoughts.
I have had the same issue is my sunnybrook, and thought of the same thing. What about using some type of serrated nail. If that makes sense. I have pulled my trim strips down to run the stereo wiring, and never had an issue re-attaching them. But, I have noticed in mine, the panels also appeared to be glued on. I would think Liquid Nails would work fine. Only problem is if you ever need to pull the panels, they will be destroyed from the glue sticking.
"Both leak. The cap on the end is all that keeps a puddle from forming under the outlet."
I recently replaced both my tank valves, with the Valterra ones. Be very careful when installing these, or any other cable operated valves. There are certain clearances for the cable to operate correctly, and close all the way. Also, you will almost have to disassemble the valve body to install it on your unit. If not done right, it can crimp the seal, causing leakage. Don't ask me the details of how I know this, had to shower twice to get rid of the mess. Once you figure it out, it is pretty easy to install though. Just take your time.
I don't know about converted per se. But, you can buy both cable operated, and just standard pull valves at Camping World. Cable operated is handy, whereas the handle only would require crawling underneath my trailer to drain my tanks. I am sure that is why a lot of trailers come with the cable operated, due to where the valves are mounted.
I can't speak to their trailers, but, I owned a Lance Max 11' Camper for many years. Never, ever, ever had a single issue with them, other than the solar panel system. It would not charge, and discovered a corroded connection on the roof. After cleaning the connection, all was well. The camper had a slideout that really expanded the inside. I went everywhere with it, up mountains, through gravel pits, smooth roads, rough roads, everywhere. Again never had an issue with construction, or anything. If their trailers are of the same standard as the camper, you will have a good trailer there. I have had 2 other campers before the Lance, and was very happy with the Lance, and the quality of the unit.
As far as removing the tub, and putting in a shower pan, I have remodeled a couple of campers and trailers in my time, it is not hard to do, just need to be careful, and plan your steps well. I recently had to completely gut my bathroom due to a water leak, then fix the leak and install new flooring, plumbing, shower pan, shower surround, toilet, etc. All together it was about a week job, but, that was just a few hours here and there during the week, then all one day on the weekend.
An additional consideration might also be how long you can run these items through an inverter, before it takes so much power out of your batteries that other 12v items don't work. Such as heater, fridge circuit board, lights, etc.
I have the same control unit pictured above that skipnchar posted. There is a delay on mine. When turned on, and switched to A/C, it takes a bit for the signals to process, the satelites to align, and then it kicks on. Might try what other postes have said, and just switch it, then wait. And if your are getting any kind of display on the LCD panel, then obviously it is turned on.
Also check the RV dealers lot for recent trade ins, that are not posted yet. I have bought several units that way, pretty inexpensively. Some have required some work, but, all were below what they would have asked for after they inspect them, clean them, and list them.
Also, how old is the battery? And, has it been fully charged then load tested? An internally shorted/bad battery will not properly charge, and will give erroneous readings. If the battery is good, all the above advice is excellent! However, starting off with a bad battery, will not make any of the above advice help you at all. And don't assume an auto shop will properly recharge a battery. A lower amperage and longer time to charge is best. Generally, auto shops do a high amp quick charge time which only gives you what I would call a "surface" charge, not the deep charge that a deep cycle battery needs.
c3saving, that is the funniest post I have read in a long time! Thanks for the advice/laughs!!! We are considering a trip to California Disney, but, I am sure all the advice crossing over to pretty much any trip, to any place.
The nice thing about a slide, is the extra room it gives you. The bad thing is the increase in maintenance for the slide, seals on the slide, slide awning. That being said, I hve had both a Lance Camper, and now a 2001 Sunnybrook Trailer, with slides, and have had no problems with either one in all the time. I do check the slide, seals, and awning occasionally to make sure everything is ok. So overall, I like the slide, and they are not really more of a hassle.
I am in the process of remodeling my Sunnybrook trailer, it also has the black plastic looking piece underneath it. What I discovered is my holding tank valves were leaking, and puddling above the plastic. My holding tanks are right above it. I am wondering if that is the same situation you have.
digmed, you might also want to consider what your are going to be using your trailer for. If you are planning on spending any time in it, NOT plugged into shore power, then you are relying on the batteries to run your lights, refrigerator circuit board, heater fan, etc. If this is the case, I would really recommend looking into a couple of camper, or "house" batteries, deep cycle, and make sure they are properly installed, and wired in. And, while your tow vehicle, in a perfect world, will trickle charge your batteries, over time. You do not want to rely on the tow vehicle as your only means of running power to your trailer.
This sight is a great place to get help and advice, and also check out the link that Dennis M M posted. Read everything you can, and ask all the questions you want, we are all here to help each other.