There was a RV-geared indoor only storage lot that opened up in south Anchorage back in 2010 or 2011? I think. It was pricey, but it even had indoor garages with full hookups and venting so that the RV's could be lived in while there.
No idea on the name, or if it was successful and is still open. Heard about it via an article in the Anchorage Daily News.
You could also check with some of the RV dealers or repair facilities in Anchorage. They may know what you are looking for.
Be aware that once you have tossed an item (toy, rock, stick, shoe, glove, etc) for a Border Collie that knows fetch:
1. that dog will continue to bring the item to you to be tossed until your arm falls off
2. fetch increases a Border Collie's physical stamina without tiring the dog for long
3. that item is only good for tossing and is no longer good for self amusement
Regarding #3 -
Our BC's will drop their balls down the stairs, chase them down to the bottom, bring them back to the top, drop them again. Over and over and over and....
Sadie our BC also LOVED the infant stage of our boys - where they where just learning to sit and throw, and would sit in one spot and throw what ever she brought them. Of course, they could only throw it about 3', but they would do it forever, and giggle the whole time. That infectious little baby giggle that they soon outgrow....
We use J&J Smart Charters in Ninilchik. Great retired military owned family run company.
Fishing out of Ninilchik means you are on the fish faster than coming out of Homer. You also get to be pushed out/pulled in by skidders which is an amazing and unique experience (no docks). I am always in awe of the courage of the unfortunate kid who gets to stand on the back of the skidder and release the boat!
Taking the trailer means you can put a small CF freezer in it to store all the fish you are going to catch! You can also load it up with cheaper frozen foods at the "big" towns along the road system.
We've taken a freezer with us a bunch of times. It will stay frozen for days if it is full in Alaska temps, and when we get to warmer temps in the lower 48, we plug it in nightly. Never had a problem with anything thawing.
Moose's Tooth for unique and AMAZING pizzas and beer. In Anchorage. Heck, even Sicily's Pizza beats all the typical lower 48 chain store pizzas!
Hula Hands for Polynesian/Hawaiian food. Also in Anchorage.
Wasabi Garden in Eagle River has the best sushi we have ever had anywhere.
Piccolinos in Eagle River for Greek/Mediterranean food.
You can definitely use a living quarter horse trailer as a toy hauler, but I would NEVER use a RV toy hauler as a horse trailer for the same reasons others have listed. RV's are simply not made to haul live animals like horses.
Horse trailers can definitely be just as nice, or even MUCH nicer, than RV's. They are generally built A LOT sturdier and heavier than typical RV's.
The main issue, IMO, that a person would run into when using a horse trailer as a toy hauler is width. Some living quarter horse trailers are only 6'9" wide on the interior, with fully exterior wheel wells. Many are 8' wide on the exterior, but still have the wheel wells bumping into the interior which brings you back to the 6'9" limit... Most fifth wheel toy hauler garages are built above or behind the wheel wells, so you have the full 8' or more interior space to load toys into.
Cost wise... you will pay a lot more for a LQ horse trailer than you will for a toy hauler. A LOT MORE. A cheap model with a slide out will run you close to $150K, a decked out "super slide" model with full bath, mid tack and lots of bells and whistles will run well over $200K. You can find "weekender package" LQ horse trailers for about $30K. Cabinet with a toilet, "cowboy shower" in the horse compartment, tiny sink, tiny fridge, tiny microwave, bed in the nose over the hitch, and no seating area. Good enough for a weekend when 90% of your time is spent outside the trailer.
... it looked to me as if he was not tolerating the milk replacer (tummy upset)...
I have no idea if this applies to puppy milk replacer, but I know LOTS and LOTS of people are having trouble with the current formulations of "large animal" milk replacer. The kind you buy in a 25lb or bigger bag to feed calves, kids, lambs, foals, etc. Apparently some manufacturers have decided to forgo using powdered dairy milk and are substituting soy instead. The soy is wreaking havoc on the digestive systems of the newborns.
Might be something to look for on your puppy milk ingredient list, and discuss with your vet.
I am praying it all works out and Graham is able to be a spoiled rotten house dog!
Not sure we're our license fees go. They charge us $7 per pet plus an extra $20 for a pet fanciers license since I have 4 cats & 2 dogs. I would think with full timing no license needed, just rabies certificate, since home is we're you park it.
Ouch! Those do seem like pretty high fees!
I have lived in several states/towns that required pet licenses. Most fees were $2-4 per neutered/spayed animal, but intact animals were higher to license (~$10). I would think compliance to the licensing would be better if the fees were kept reasonable. But I also agree with the tactic of charging those with "too many" animals a higher fee, though I do not feel that 4 cats + 2 dogs is "too many"... Over 10 animals total (cats + dogs) is probably too many for the average owner, though.
With many municipalities performing licensing with a good-ole' carbon-copy paper pads and corresponding metal tags distributed at multiple vet clinics in the municipality, you DO have to wonder if it is an efficient system. Does a city employee *really* spend hours and hours transcribing that info into a searchable database? Especially since those pads might sit around the vet clinic for months, or even the entire year.... I know ours did. The city did not want them back until the end of the year. What is the point of the license then?
On the flip side, how successful would the program be if the municipality forced the fee and tag into the cost of every Rabies vaccine sold at clinics within their city limits? Would it cause a clinic to loose customers? Especially if they could just drive a few miles over to the next city/town/county and get the vaccine cheaper, without having to pay the fee??? And what about those clients that don't live in the city limits, would you then have to make sure they get charged a different fee? I would assume a license tag CAN be included into vet clinic software and then linked/uploaded via internet to the city's system (it was never done at any clinic I have worked at, but I seem to remember the software having the ability to do so). The State of Oklahoma has had something similar for years, which tracks sales of controlled substances via client driver's license number and DOB. AFAIK, it still has to be manually uploaded to their DEA each night at the close of business, but it is quick and works. Their system even recognizes incorrect info, and flags the clients account so that the clinic can attempt to collect correct info, vs. the state spending time/$ to track down the person.
That's where we wanted to stay during my MIL's surgery at TMC, but they didn't have any spots available. We ended up at Lakeview for 3 weeks instead, which was nice, but All Star seemed pretty spectacular online, and were very friendly when we spoke to them on the phone, too.
...I am in unfamiliar territory. I wish to go some place in the region. I am not on an interstate.
At what general speed will other traffic I encounter be traveling?...
The speed I drive will also partly depend on the terrain and roads I am driving on in "unfamiliar territory". If the road is steep up and down, blind curves, etc. and I have NEVER driven on it, you can bet I will not be going fast - maybe 45 mph, even if the speed limit higher. If I have been on it enough to memorize where I need to slow down due to sharp curves, then I'll be driving the speed limit.
If it is a flat wide open you-can-see-for-miles type road like those often found in the Midwest/west, then I just might exceed the speed limit by a few MPH's.
If I am in a residential area, no matter the terrain or how often I have driven the road, then I ALWAYS do the speed limit. Even if that means dropping from 60 mph to 20 mph for a mile or two. This often severely PO's the people behind me, but I'd much rather drive slow and be prepared for traffic turning out of side streets/driveways.
If it is a busy multi-lane road, I try to go with the flow of traffic within reason. I do not like being the speed bump going the speed limit when everyone else is doing 15-25 mph higher.
Speed limits between my house and the DC Beltway vary from 35 mph to 55 mph. People drive about 80 mph. I generally drive 70, and feel like my life is in danger not because I am speeding, but because the flow of traffic is blasting past me like I am standing still.
Even on our narrow twisty 2-lane blind curve every 400' roads, people drive way too fast and pass dangerously. If I can pull over and let them pass, I do, but there are stretches for 5-10 miles where there is zero shoulder, trees up to the road that get their branches sheared off by traffic. No way to pull over there. I've had people pass me and the 4 cars ahead of me, without having a clue what is coming around the curve, over the hill, etc.
I have learned what the posted speed limits are on our local roads. I don't need the GPS for them. But in unfamiliar territory, I generally drive the speed the GPS says, unless the flow of traffic forces me faster. I know the GPS is not 100% accurate, so I am always alert for speed limit signs.
On any interstate, once I am away from a metro area and the traffic thins out, I usually drive between 70-75ish.
I haven't written a check for a utility bill in about 10 years. Anything and everything that I have to pay monthly is set up to automatically deduct out of my checking account. I don't have to do a thing. Wouldn't have it any other way!
The only thing I write checks for anymore are the kid's school lunches (because if I pay them online, I get charged a 6% "convenience fee"!!!!) and my horses' farrier. A box of checks lasts me close to 2 years!
We have a Smart car that we haul in our Voltage toyhauler. We have driven it on well maintained level gravel roads without a problem (Amish roads).
But, I am not sure I would tackle any of the severely washboarded potholed gravel roads in AK with one. Or even some of the frost heaved sections of road. The Smart simply does not have the clearance to handle that type of beating at highway speeds. You'd have to drive slower than you could walk if the gravel road conditions deteriorate after a rain, as they often do... Even the paved roads could be treacherous - the heavily traveled sections around Anchorage in particular have SEVERE tire ruts - they measured them at 6" deep when we lived up there. Being that the Smart has a narrower wheel base than those ruts - you'd be in for one heck of a fun ride!
Absolutely LOVE our Smart for commuting and getting anywhere here in DC cheaply. Not sure we'd drive it much in AK, though.
Sure are a lot of RV's for sale in the YT, dontcha think???? And 5 days to get from somewhere in YT to Louisiana??? In the winter??? Those Nigerian guys need to study up on their geography.
Scams, all of them.
There has to be a way to get it done. My MIL is on 2 controlled drugs, and has been for 15 years. She sees a Dr. once a year, so I know she is not getting a hand-written 'script every month. She doesn't even go to the pharmacy to pick the meds up, she is home-bound - family members pick up her meds, or they get delivered by pharmacy employees or USPS.
I would talk to your Dr.'s office and to a chain pharmacy. They should both be aware of the regulations. I am sure you are not the only one with the issue of needing controlled drugs on the road, you just need to ask the people that know for the answer.
Our raptor is 13'4'' but it is also 41'9'' long I would go deeper than the 40 you have. From a seller stand point if a rv buyer is looking at the house he wants he stuff to fit. I have looked at a few house with sheds and most are 12 tall. I would likely spend more raising the roof 4 ' than tearing it down and building new.
I have never heard anyone say the have to much space or to much horsepwer. JMHO
I agree. Building as big as you can afford has multiple benefits... potential buyers if you sell the property will be able to fit whatever they own, and YOU will be able to fit whatever you buy in.
I would LOVE to be able to purchase a property with building on it that I can actually use as-is!
I would talk to a local realtor or appraiser about "adding value" to your property. In some areas, a shop/outbuilding has to have concrete flooring, heat/air/electric AND plumbing in order to "add value" to your property.
We ran into this issue while living in Oklahoma. We were planning on spending ~$40K putting up a large building (40x60x16 w/5 tall garage doors, people door, and a 16' deep lean-to along the 60' side: DIRT FLOOR AND ELECTRIC ONLY) to store 3 trailers in, that also had horse stalls in it. Thankfully, we talked to an appraiser first, who, during our appraisal, told us we would only get $15K in "added value" if we were to build the shed. Definitely not a good financial decision considering we would be selling the home within 3 years.
The building will most likely increase the "sellability" of your home. Not sure that is even a word - but basically, the building will make your home more attractive to potential buyers. But don't bank on the "added value" until you speak with an appraiser.
Our 43' TH and our horse trailer both have load lights on the back that are on a separate switch. You do have to get out and manually turn them on/off, but they easily light up a path to back up.
The first time we brought the new TH home was after dark. We had to back it about 200' into our driveway, off of our private road. Trees, fences, and ditches on both sides of the 8' wide road, and two 90* turns to back thru to get in the drive. Wouldn't have been able to do it without the load lights.
And, what if we all dumped our grey tank contents on the ground? For years? Granted, no Super Fund site but every little bit of dumping like litter hurts. It's the cumulative effect.
Considering the small number of pop-ups on the road compared to all other RV's, I doubt it would have any effect at all. Pop-up sinks ARE NOT the same size as any other RV. They are tiny - I'm gonna guess they hold a little over a gallon if empty and filled to the brim - the amount of water dumped is tiny. We ARE NOT talking about dumping a 40 gallon holding tank - we are talking about a few gallons of soapy water.
If you are going to jump down the throat of a pop-up dumping their gray water, than you darn well better not EVER wash your car in your driveway/yard... There is 100x more soapy water on the ground as a result of someone washing a vehicle....