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 > Your search for posts made by 'rgatijnet1' found 1465 matches.

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RE: Used Diesel Motorhomes

After having a few DP's and gassers I know that a lot of DP's are very noisy up front. Not from engine noise but from air leaks around the front door, especially as they age and the door seal deteriorates. All DP's are not as quiet as some people would like you to believe. The wind noise can be very high. Easy to fix seal leaks...if indeed one has them than you are back to wonderfully quiet. You are still pushing a box through the air and the mirrors and front windows also provide plenty of "music" for the front occupants. It is not like a Class A is going to knife through the air whether it is a gas or diesel engine. They are still boxes with flat fronts.
rgatijnet1 03/04/15 06:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Used Diesel Motorhomes

After having a few DP's and gassers I know that a lot of DP's are very noisy up front. Not from engine noise but from air leaks around the front door, especially as they age and the door seal deteriorates. All DP's are not as quiet as some people would like you to believe. The wind noise can be very high.
rgatijnet1 03/04/15 05:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Used Diesel Motorhomes

A 5-8 year old coach will be 15-18 years old by the time you plan to get rid of it. At the high end of your expected usage, you will add another 30,000 miles to the existing mileage on whatever coach you buy. You will not wear out the engine, whether it is a gas or diesel power plant. Your friend racks up a lot of miles, so for him a diesel MIGHT be the best choice. Many of us have had both diesel and gas coaches. I have never heard of anyone on this forum actually wearing an engine out, whether it is gas or diesel. There have been instances of both engines having catastrophic(very expensive) failures but it was due to some other outside cause rather than the engine being worn out from just racking up the miles. Based on your description of the type of trips you plan to take, I would recommend a gas coach and save the extra cash to buy other items. With short trips the larger fuel tank is not very important. With your schedule, you will be spending more time parked at your destination than driving down the highway. I would concentrate more on a floor plan that you both like and put the type of engine way way down on my list of things that have any importance in your enjoyment of the RV lifstyle. .
rgatijnet1 03/04/15 03:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Circuit breakers on Inverter.

Your inverter has what is known as "pass thru" current. In other words, it is the TOTAL amount of current that can run through the inverter and it cannot be exceeded. The output from your inverter is fed to several different 15 and 20 amp circuits. Some, like mine, power the microwave also. In any case, you have two circuit breakers on your inverter and they are each equal to 1/2 of your TOTAL pass thru current. One of these two circuit breakers could easily be tripped if your TOTAL draw from several different outlets fed by your inverter exceeds 1/2 of the "pass thru" capacity.
rgatijnet1 03/04/15 12:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1995 P32 Rotors Overheating

I would replace both of the front rubber brake lines. The brake lines can break down internally and cause a restriction of the brake fluid. Then I would completely flush out your entire brake system. This should take 3-4 quarts of brake fluid. Check each part of the brake linkage, including the brake pedal under the dash, to insure that they are properly lubricated and operating with out any drag.
rgatijnet1 03/04/15 10:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tips on removing decals?

I would use a hair dryer instead of a heat gun. If you get the sidewall too hot, the glue that is used to attach the sidewall to the foam/frame will soften and the sidewall could start to de-laminate.
rgatijnet1 03/04/15 09:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: pluging in to 110 v when parked

Since the OP was asking about keeping his batteries charged, the answer is YES it is advisable to keep his coach plugged in to a shore power outlet. That being said some inverter/chargers will not charge BOTH the house and chassis batteries when plugged in to shore power. He may need an additional battery charger to take care of his chassis batteries. When the coach is sitting there are several parasitic items that will drain your house and chassis batteries, depending on how they are wired. You will have the CO detector, the propane detector, the smoke detector, the radio memory, satellite boxes, etc. Keeping your batteries fully charged is the best way to prevent them from freezing during the Winter, unless you want to remove them and put them in a warm location.
rgatijnet1 03/04/15 08:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Camping World Service - Woodstock, GA

Why not call a few auto AC shops and see if they will work on your coach?
rgatijnet1 03/04/15 06:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: workhorse chassis

Just do a Google search of the VIN and it will tell you the year, make, model. You do not need to go to the Workhorse website.
rgatijnet1 03/03/15 08:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: workhorse chassis

My 8.1L Workhorse runs down, and exits, on BOTH sides, right before the rear duals.
rgatijnet1 03/02/15 12:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil Change, shocks and possible wheel alignment

Mileage is not a factor for your tires if they were over 7 years old or had suffered impact damage from a curb or pothole. If your tires were wearing evenly with no cupping or other unusual wear, chances are you do not need an alignment and you may not even need shocks. If the coach was riding fine without any vibration I would just stick with the new tires, balanced, and see how the coach drives.
rgatijnet1 03/02/15 12:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: workhorse chassis

It will not be a Workhorse chassis but it would not be the first Allison transmission put behind a Ford engine. Here is a link that sells used Allisons for various Ford trucks. Allison/Ford
rgatijnet1 03/02/15 10:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dyna Beads

Columbus, Ohio area where may I get dynabeads installed? Most truck tire stores will have them. They will have the standard Dynabeads but very few shops have the larger RV Dynabeads. Order them online and take them to a shop to install or install them yourself with the applicator bottle.
rgatijnet1 03/02/15 04:22am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Nitrogen in tires

Nitrogen won't cause an explosion if the tires get VERY hot and out-gassing of compounds in the rubber occurs. This happened on a Boeing 727 some years back and one main-gear tire blew. The pressure spike was enough to fail the steel cord in the tire bead in tension. Detailed analysis, which I and a couple of fellow engineers did, suggested the pressure had reached about 12,000 psi before it blew out. It turned out the airplane had taxied over two miles and had the engines at higher than normal thrust level because the brakes on one wheel were dragging. The burst occurred about 10 minutes after take-off, with the wheels retracted. Boeing and the FAA concurred that nitrogen would not permit the explosion, and it became mandatory to use it on transport category airplanes. Bottom line - if your RV can accelerate to 150 mph in a couple of miles with a dragging brake and then you can put the wheels into a closed box, you should use nitrogen. Otherwise, don't waste your money! Nitrogen will not support combustion but it also will not prevent a blow-out on an RV tire that is overheated from running the pressure too low. No flame but same results.
rgatijnet1 03/01/15 02:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford F-53 Black Smoke

Black smoke is usually an indication that your engine was running rich. I run with a ScanGauge hooked up all of the time and one thing that I monitor is the air/fuel ratio. In normal operation it is running at 14.7. During hard acceleration or during a hill climb where the engine downshifts, the mixture is automatically enriched by your engine computer to provide more power and for cylinder cooling. I think that since your engine is running fine now, that this was just normal operation and nothing to worry about. The white smoke could just be some moisture in your exhaust system which is pretty common during the Winter. If you have access to a Scangauge, you may want to hook it up and see if your engine is running at 14.6-14.7 during normal cruise on flat land. If you can't do that, I wouldn't worry about it.
rgatijnet1 03/01/15 02:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: MH Tire Balance

Quote: "Equal has a similar applicator to add the balancing powder through the valve stem. If you use Equal, make sure you also use the special valve stem cores with the attached screen to insure you do not get a grain of the powder trapped in the valve core seal and loose air pressure. Dynabeads are much larger so you do not have that problem with them." End of Quote. Actually, the Dynabeads folks do recommend the use of special valve cores with screens on them to keep the beads from obstructing the cores. They sell such cores for that use. However, I have found Dynabeads work very well without problems with regular unscreened valve cores. In fact, ironically, the only valve cores I ever had problems with while using Dynabeads were the screened ones I bought from Dynabeads for use with their product. Several of those screened stems leaked air over a several year period, and I replaced each of them with regular cores with no further problems whatsoever. Kind of funny the way it worked out for me. Dynabeads come in different sizes. The ones specifically for RV's are the largest beads and are designed to work with standard valve cores and with any TPMS system. A lot of shops do not stock the larger RV beads and they then recommend the special valve cores with the smaller beads. The best bet is to just order the right Dynabeads and take them with you when you get new tires. Equal POWDER works fine if there is no moisture in your tires. Any moisture tends to cause clumping with is not a problem with the Dynabeads. Some tire installers use way too much lubricant when mounting tires and this can affect the balancing powder.
rgatijnet1 03/01/15 12:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Child safety in a prevost

duplicate. read the rules Where are the rules? Thats the point of my question. There are none that cover Class A RV's. It is not a car and even some states do not require you to be buckled up in the back seat of a car. As I said, you can get up and wander around, or use the facilities, in a Grayhound bus, which is as close to a Class A as you can find. Common sense dictates what you do in your own RV. Here is one link that lists all kinds of exempted vehicles for each state. Seatbelt laws
rgatijnet1 02/28/15 02:56pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Child safety in a prevost

Personally I would contact someone about installing whatever is necessary to properly secure a child safety seat in your RV near your captains seats. The front seats in your coach were not designed for a child safety seat. As far as doing the things you ask in a moving RV, most of us just use common sense. Legally the laws vary from state to state and most do not cover Class A RV's. Even commercial buses allow people to get up and move around. There are times when it is not practical to be up and moving around, like in a city, twisting roads, mountain roads, inclement weather, etc. There are other times when on a nice straight interstate highway, most of us will allow some movement to use the rest room, grab something to eat or drink. To move around for any length of time to play with a child, that may be pushing your luck. Again, just use common sense and think about what could go wrong. You are the parents and part of your job is to take care of your children who do not have the knowledge that you have.
rgatijnet1 02/28/15 02:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Nitrogen in tires

Since the air that you breathe is 80% nitrogen, what do you think? Of course nitrogen will fluctuate but maybe a tiny bit less. Just the typical BS to get more of your money. Unless it is free, nitrogen is a waste of money. Here is a link: Nitrogen or air
rgatijnet1 02/28/15 09:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Good Sams or FMCA Road side Assistance

CoachNet also covers all vehicles you own and will respond to any DESIGNATED camping area(private or government), whether it is sandy, grass, muddy, or paved. If you decide to pull off in to some field and get stuck, they will still cover you for up to 100 feet from a paved road. They have no limit on towing expense except that they will take you to the nearest facility that is capable of doing the repairs on your coach. If you decide you want a repair facility in another state, expect to pay extra no matter what ERS you chose. The big advantage to CN is that they have a 27/7 phone number where you can talk to an EXPERT who may be able to take care of your problem over the phone. The other ERS providers will just send someone to your location because the person that answers the phone does not have any expertise to diagnose exactly what you need.
rgatijnet1 02/28/15 07:25am Class A Motorhomes
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