I would first try to determine the cause of the blowout and also determine the weight you are carrying before considering what type of tire to buy. Was it due to incorrect inflation pressure, exceeding weight capacity, wear, manufacturing defect, etc.
Are the replacement tires the same size and load range as the OEM tires?
If not the door sticker info will not apply.
Stickdog, do you have "E" or "G" load range?
I would weight the axles with the maximum load that you carry and use the Michelin inflation tables HERE.
I don't believe load inflation tables can be called nonsense as one poster suggests. (I don't quote posters here anymore as it tends to pi$$ some of them off and they get nasty in their replies).
The best wear and safety performance from a tire can be had by using load inflation tables.
Why do the major tire manufacturers publish inflation tables for their tires as exampled in the following links:
Another absolutely not. Our Alaska trip in 2007 with another couple and their TC was the joy of a lifetime. I bought the TC just for the trip as I did not want to pull the fiver there and back.
Over 11,000 miles with no time schedule, took nearly 3 months.
Near the end of the trip, we put the TC on the Alaska Marine Ferry ship Columbia in Skagway and got off in Bellingham, WA 5 days later.
Took nearly 4,000 digital photos and still enjoy looking at them now and then. The memory is what makes the trip.
Not really wanting to return as there is still much of the lower 48 that I want to see....in the TC that I bought for Alaska.
Did anyone read this post or are you just shooting from the hip because it has not affected you, yet .... believe me, if you are using a jetpack and a Verizon customer, your day is coming, as thousands of others have found out.
Since you are able to make this prediction, certainly you must know the cause, so please tell us.
Oh well, guess it's just something else to look forward to, like the Maya prorhecy of the end of the world that didn't happen last December.
The OP states "because it uses about 1gb per half hour", I doubt very much the problem lies with Verizon. That is a phenomenal rate of data just for surfing and emails. If Verizon was going to overrate your usage,as some have claimed, they would certainly be smart enough to do it in smaller increments and not to the point that your monthly amount is consumed in a matter of hours. How dumb to think otherwise.
Have you contacted Verizon about the problem?
I have a Jetpack 4260L on Verizon 4G LTE network and only use around 3.5GB in 30 days of surfing and emails.
I am using a computer....
If I go to mail and hit any letter then the email addresses associated with that letter appeat to include some incorrect ones. That is what I am trying to delete. Not from address book.
The email addresses you see when you type a letter are from your address book. As mentioned earlier, left click on the To: and your address book should open with edit and delete options.
I see frequent references to the decal on the door, for the PSI. I have not seen it posted that this applies to the specific tire listed on the door. My point is, the PSI on the door does not apply to all tires. Change the tire size and the decal probably no longer apply
Absolutely, the decal is no longer valid if the tires have not been replaced with like tires.
Last year I helped a friend look for a used truck. You would be surprised at the number of trucks with 50K+ mileage that had tires that were less rated that the OEM tires. I guess when some replace tires they tend to go cheaper, which is usually lower rated tires.
My truck camper is BIG, it is off the truck 3 or 4 days a year. Those 3 or 4 days are used for servicing, rotating tires, etc. I do not deflate my tires from 80 psi for the 1% of the time the camper isn't on the truck. Though mr young would seem to insist that I should, that "his" way is the only correct way.
Sleepy, why must you always reply with a snide remark that has nothing to do with the discussion.
I never insisted or even implied that you "should do it my way."
I merely stated in my orginal post that one does not need to inflate to the side wall pressure unless they are carrying the load that requires it.
Wether or not this applies in your situation I do not know. So the discussion is not about you, your rig, your driving habits, your lifestyle, etc.
I'm simply trying to debunk the myth that the pressure listed on the tires sidewall is what the tire should be inflated to.
sleepy, you can have the last say on this, but please, you don't need to make sarcastic remarks.
I think you'll find that the table is marked "Maximum Load" for a given pressure. That is not a recommendation.
I also think you'll find the vehicle manufacturer has a specification for tire pressure listed on a placard usually located on the driver's doorpost.
This is essentially what I posted. You determine the weight the tire is carrying and then look at the inflation table to see what pressure the manufacturer requires (recommends, just a choice of words), to inflate the tire.
Yes, the drivers door placard does give the required inflation pressure, but this given pressure is only valid if you carry the maximum load (RGAWR), which is also stated on the placard.
The dually in my sig has E rated tires, whic are rated at 3042 lbs at 80 psi. But the door placard gives 65 psi inflation for a maximum rear load of 9350 lbs (RGAWR).
If I stay within the weight limits why would I ever want to inflate to 80 psi in the rear tires? Even if I ignored the GVWR and loaded up to the axel rating I still would not need 80 psi.
The old myth of setting them at 80 and forgetting it, as stated many times on the forum, just doesn't make much sense to me.
did you quote me or take a line out of context? No matter.
My TC is on 99% of the time... it's an 1161 with lots of mods... it really "likes" 80 psi all around...
If I had a little TC I might need to lower the psi... wouldn't need a dually either.
After 40 years of doing this I have a pretty good idea what I'm doing.
And I get very good milage on the tires, even wear all across... I do have the alignment checked anytime I see a reason to.
I quoted what you said.
"I follow the tire mfg's recommendation... and fill the tire to the max on the sidewall of the tire... the tire has less rolling resistance at 80psi than at 65 psi.. that translates into better MPG at 80 psi."
First of all, the max pressure on the sidewall is not the mfg's recommendation. It is simply a statement by the tire manufacture giving the pressure that is needed to carry the tires maximum designed load weight.
The manufacturer usually gives the "recommneded" pressure in their load inflation tables. Hence my statement that you do not need to inflate a tire to the given sidewall pressure if you are not runing at the maximum designed load weight.
You didn't specify what the total weight that you are carrying on your GMC 3500 dually, but I can surmise that you probably need the extra pressure to do so.
As to your statement "After 40 years of doing this I have a pretty good idea what I'm doing" you sound like you were offended by my post.
My intention was not to offend you and I apologize if I did. My post was just to correct the implication you made.
Surely you haven't been driving around for 40 years with all that unnecessary air pressure in your tires.:)
I follow the tire mfg's recommendation... and fill the tire to the max on the sidewall of the tire... the tire has less rolling resistance at 80psi than at 65 psi.. that translates into better MPG at 80 psi
If you are not carrying a sufficient load to require the maximum sidewall pressure, then you don't need to inflate the tires to that pressure.
True the tire may have less rolling resistance, but it also will have abnormal wear. More important, safety wise, it will have less braking and traction ability as it is over inflated.
This morning I received a phone call from a man who identified himself as a representative of Good Sam ERS asking if there was anything he could do to facilitate my upcoming due payment for my ERS. I told him no and informed him I had sent the payment of $112 a coule of days ago.
He then explained that for an additional $69 I could extend the coverage an additional 15 months to the year I had just sent payment for.
I was about to accept the offer, but when he said although they had my credit card on file, he even gave me the last four digits plus the expiration date, that I would still need to give him the first 12 digits of my credit card. What!!??
I told him I would not give anyone my credit card number over the phone especially since I did not initiate the call. He persisted and after telling him two more times, I hung up the phone.
My question to the ERS team is simple. Was this a scam or do you really do business in this manner?