Removing Dicor
I'm repairing the nosecap to roof seam, and would like to remove the several layers of Dicor on the seam before I replace with Eternabond. I know you can put the Eternabond directly over the Dicor, but it has collected quite a bit of dirt, and also dams up water on the roof. I'd just like to remove it and make the seam as smooth as possible.
Any pointers other than using a putty knife with a hefty amount of elbow grease on how best to remove the Dicor? Would a heat gun set on low heat help, or would that just turn it into a sticky molten mass of goo? Once the bulk of it is off, it seems to dissolve in acetone.
RE: Silicone Caulk or Putty Tape for Sealing?
As always, fantastic replies. Thanks. Is there a consesus that silicone sealant has no place on an RV? I'm thinking about the seals on the top of items projecting off the sides of vertical surfaces - running lights, appliance cutouts, hookups, windows, etc. Would Proflex/Proseal be called for here as well? These seals don't have the discoloring problems associated with the squeeze-out material, but need maintained nevertheless. From what I am hearing, using a home-center product like DAP or one of the GE silicones is just asking for problems.
Silicone Caulk or Putty Tape for Sealing?
Our Jayco uses putty tape under all the edge trim. It's the kind that extends out from behind the trim piece after it is applied, and the trim is usually attached with screws at various intervals that go through the trim and putty. It is the type of stuff that remains pliable even after several years. This characteristic also makes it a dirt magnet, and all our corner and gutter seals are 50 shades of black (apologies in advance for those who's caught the pun).
Would it be advisable to remove the excess (the squeeze-out) and apply a good silicone sealant or should I continue to use the putty?
RE: Reverse Sticker-Shock
Were you happy with the rig and the price you paid when you bought it? If you weren't, you never should have bought it. If you were, enjoy the purchase you made and don't look back.
John
John, please re-read my original post. I specifically state price was a secondary issue. We are blessed with sufficient resources to be able to afford depreciable assets, and we certainly get our "money's worth" from our rig, despite its "street" or "book" value.
The point I was trying to make was the rate at which RV's seem to be losing value. Is this being caused by the condition of the general economy, the housing crisis, or an overall downturn in RV ownership? I'm happy with my purchase, and don't plan on selling any time soon, so this is only a paper loss for me. But it does make me think adding a replacement loss rider to my insurance policy might be a good idea.
But as one poster noted, money is being made in bank loans. It makes sense that rates for RVs would be rising if the rig is used for collateral. Unless one puts up about 50% downpayment, the loan is underwater within a couple of years. The banks are essentially making an unsecured loan. So entry into RV ownership through purchase of a new rig is more dificult than in the past. That should make well-maintained used rigs be in greater demand (i.e. maintain their value longer). But that doesn't seem to be the case. I'm more concerned about the overall health of the RV industry than my personal situation. Prices seem to indicate inventory is far outpacing demand.
Reverse Sticker-Shock
I was looking at some classifieds today and saw someone selling (or trying to sell) our make and model-year fiver. The asking price was a little more than one-half what we still owe on our rig, which we purchased new three years ago. Now I know one does not buy an RV as an investment property, but I was shocked at just how much and how quickly the values have decreased. We bought our latest rig at the peak of the recession when it was a very favorable buyer's market, and I still think we got a very good deal. Price is really a secondary issue, as we enjoy ownership, and make good use of it, so to us the purchase price was justifiable. It's recreation - not an investment. And who doesn't like trading-up every so often? But with all the TLC we give our rigs, you'd like to think it is still worth something to someone other than just its intangible value.
But the way prices on used units have sunk makes me wonder how dealers are able to sell any new inventory. Have people involuntarily left RV ownership, or is the industry in overall decline? I can't imagine being able to build a new one for the price being asked for well-maintained used rigs, let alone make a profit off the sale. I wonder if fuel prices are making potential newcomers think twice about shelling out major bucks before getting that first rig. Or has the overall economy caused folks to have to leave RV ownership. At these resale prices, there is going to have to be some major consolidation amongst manufacturers, as there must be way too much inventory available to satisfy demand. It should concern us all, as fewer manufacturers means fewer choices, and eventually fewer dealerships. Even if you aren't in the market for a new rig, I think a healthy primary and secondary sales market is in everone's best interest, as it is affects everything from service to park quality. From what I have seen recently, the market is not very healthy, and doesn't look to be recovering very quickly.
RE: Gray Water Tank Overfill
Backing up into the sink is exactly what happened. This is a galley tank. I was able to add 20 more gallons after the gauge indicated "full." It's a 42 gallon tank, so it was reading full when in fact it was slightly over half-full. Since I had cleaners in the tank, I'm wondering if suds may have formed and tripped the full sensor, because when I dumped it the water looked as clean as when I put it in. So I think the tank is quite clean. Just a thought.
Gray Water Tank Overfill
When a gray water tank overfills, is there an overflow line that would cause gray water to spill similar to the FW tank, or will gray water simply back up into the lowest common inlet (sink, shower pan, etc.?) I am presuming it's required to be a sealed system, save for the inlet and vent.
The reason I ask is my level gauge is showing the tank to be full, but I have measured the amount of water I put in the tank by manually filling it with a bucket, and I'm coming up about 20 gallons short. I'd like to fill the tank completely full with some detergent and water, let it soak for a while and see if I can get the gauges cleaned off so they are a bit more accurate. But before I start throwing more water into the inside, I want to make sure it isn't going to show up someplace unexpected.
