RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact  

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'stevenal' found 75 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: TC + extended hitch

That unit is 600/6000 so wouldn't work for me. Also, I'm not sure where the 15-3/4 is measured from. I've seen it represent the length of the shank which means the extension would be more like 10" rather than 16". Thanks for the link! Measured hole center to hole center, so you are correct about the effective extension length.
stevenal 08/26/16 08:54am Truck Campers
RE: TC + extended hitch

As an ME, I assume that a product that is rated has gone through testing. I have not done any towing to speak of though which is why I posted the topic. I appreciate informed opinions with real world experience to back it up. The dealerships may have both, but they come across as tools of TL or whoever else pays the bills making them tough to trust. The only thing that is a given is that the mfg installs a hitch and rates it at some load. If I don't exceed that I should be good. If not, they would be sued and out of business. Sometimes you need to look around a bit, but you will find the standard extension's ratings do speak of a reduction in rating for the hitch it attaches to. The TL is designed as system, and I would trust their ratings. I think Reese has a similar system. Another method is to use a long draw bar, which claim no reduction in rating. Longest drawbar I know of.
stevenal 08/25/16 09:01am Truck Campers
RE: Happijac 4600 jack broken

It's a standard roll pin, available at most hardware stores. Because of the gap presented by the threads on the shaft, the pin is exposed to more moment than needed. Try to avoid full retraction under full power. The clutch on the motor does not protect the pin.
stevenal 08/25/16 08:47am Truck Campers
RE: The roof..the roof. the roof is

An easier way. Simply inserts into the pipe, no need to mess with the flange.
stevenal 08/22/16 09:01am Truck Campers
RE: Honda EU 2000 ability = impressive

JamesJudasPriest, What brand/size AC do you run?
stevenal 08/10/16 09:02am Tech Issues
RE: What does 4000 VA mean?

Go with road-runner's answer, I see no error. No phase shift in DC, so no need to worry about pf on the DC side.
stevenal 08/05/16 08:52am Tech Issues
RE: Dometic v.s. Duo-Therm Hard Start Kit - yikes, help....

According to the spec sheet, it uses an 88-106 uF cap; same as the 6E.
stevenal 08/04/16 08:38am Tech Issues
RE: Dometic v.s. Duo-Therm Hard Start Kit - yikes, help....

Chris, What do you think of the SPP4E? 90-130V, up to 1 HP.
stevenal 08/03/16 01:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical Head Scratcher

As suggested by smkettner, my old Magnetek ran the lights from a section of the converter that is isolated from the battery. Interrupt the AC, and the lights (and anything else connected on that side of the converter) would switch over to battery power with a blink. A faulty switching mechanism in the converter could cause the problem described. Might be time for a new converter.
stevenal 08/03/16 01:31pm Tech Issues
RE: scissor stairs

A ladder won't work for me as I have two large dogs that travel with me. I think my steps were made by Hijacker. I like those new steps that are made by Torklift that have feet on them. I think on uneven ground they would give a much stabler stair as well as level the stairs better. Does anyone have the new feet on their stairs? Do you like them? Answered above. You do need to open the link, though.
stevenal 07/25/16 11:36am Truck Campers
RE: LED Bulbs

We're not talking 110V bulbs with built-in power sources the OP is looking for 12V bulbs like 1156 base - no power supply. These are DC, LED bulbs so there is NO interference with anything electrical. Dan Sorry, wrong on both counts. LEDs require and come equipped with current driver circuitry, and this circuitry is known to cause interference. The problem becomes worse in the marine industry, where radio communication is crucial. Therefore, look to that industry for the best solutions to the problem. https://store.marinebeam.com/controlling-emi-1/
stevenal 07/25/16 11:32am Truck Campers
RE: Pros/cons of class B and P/U slide in?

Most TCs have an escape hatch above the cabover bed. We used to let our pit-lab sleep in the truck. A thief would find it difficult to drive with all her kissing.
stevenal 07/22/16 09:09am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: scissor stairs

My stairs are starting to feel unstable. I have them for 10 years. Is there some maintenance I should be doing? I have tightened the bolts at the top. It is a 6 step set of stairs. I can't see a name but I want to say it was a Tork lift but I am not sure. If they are at the end of their life which set of stair do you like? I like those new legs that Tork lift has come out with. Anyone have those? Yes. See http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27929418/gotomsg/28511578.cfm#28511578
stevenal 07/20/16 09:01am Truck Campers
RE: Pros/cons of class B and P/U slide in?

The flatbed would put your camper considerably higher since the bed is above the wheels, more stairs involved. With a crew cab, there is lots of storage room. The Bs we saw did have lots of storage for small items, but lacked room to put bulky items.
stevenal 07/20/16 08:54am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Pros/cons of class B and P/U slide in?

Have you noticed how many stair steps there are to climb into a camper on a 2500/3500 4x4? Hows your knees? For me, the answer is four. No basement in my Bigfoot. Another couple steps to get up into the cabover bed. To answer the original question, storage room was a big plus for the truck camper. The back seat is dedicated to storage, plus the cabover bed holds chairs when in transit. Recently looked at some Bs, and just didn't see enough storage room for our needs. To use the seating area in the Bs we looked at, one must fold up the bed and stow the bedding. This is a hassle we presently avoid. Unequal bedtimes also complicates this issue. Our mattress is one piece, very comfortable, and where the dogs can't get to. Drivability can be improved by enhancing the suspension, but I understand there are Bs that can also benefit by these upgrades.
stevenal 07/18/16 09:04am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Water heater anode torque: wrench doesn't go that low?

Lots of posts speak of leaking, but none speak of the electrical connection involved. For the anode to work properly, there must be good metal to metal contact at the threads. Probably not much torque needed, but leaking is not the entire story. Also don't want the thing vibrating loose on the road.
stevenal 07/13/16 01:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Anti sway bar question

stevenal 07/11/16 01:17pm Truck Campers
RE: Replacing factory rear sway bar with larger diameter one

Yes; Roadmaster on the back, Hellwig on the front. I won't wait when I get my next truck. Stableloads and anti-sway bars will go on before the camper does.
stevenal 06/27/16 08:55am Truck Campers
RE: Water leak on floor from where??? (2002 Bigfoot 2500 10.6)

Check the windows. The window over my dinette leaked until I reset it. Press on the window flange on the outside to see if it moves. If it does, don't bother trying to seal it with caulk. You need to remove and reset the window with new butyl tape. Then you can apply caulk.
stevenal 06/22/16 01:25pm Truck Campers
RE: Refrigerator & High Altitude

Cleaning it didn't fix it. I was at around 9k last weekend and same problem. Here is what it does when trying to run on propane and the problem arises when it tries to light. It'll light, but it will keep sparking the ignitor (even though I can hear it burning). It'll continue to spark the ignitor and after a short while, it'll stop sparking it and I think it then closes the gas valve, so the pilot goes out. Repeat, repeat, quit. I've got the wind covers off again and thinking the probe that sticks into the flame must need to be lowered or something. Its the only thing I can see that senses temperature (ie.. that would tell the unit that the flame is lit...but if this is the problem, why the flame isn't as hot at higher altitude is a bit of a mystery to me. It's important to know that the thermocouple isn't the only thing that senses whether the flame is present, the igniter itself performs this function as well. The continued sparking makes me suspect this part of the circuit. I believe it works by measuring the conductivity of the flame, and the altitude might affect this somewhat. You may need to adjust the igniter, replace the igniter, or replace the board. I recommend the Dinosaur Electronics replacement boards if you get to that step.
stevenal 06/03/16 01:54pm Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 4  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2016 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS