The article is talking about a fee for a particular activity, not "to hike" as a general thing. There are already other fee activities (and regulation of traffic) in that park, in other national parks, and there have been for many years. a fee helps in the regulation of activities that need to be regulated to manage the number of people doing it at one time, and cover costs produced.
I've been paying fees to camp for at least 50 years, and don't view that as some sinister expansion of government control or loss of a fundamental human freedom, that I couldn't camp for free like people did when there were only a few thousand visitors a year more than a century ago.
I think you will find even more regulation in the most crowded national parks, e.g. control of traffic in the busiest Yosemite trail areas.
Circular route is way too long if you are going for shortest distance. I've seen the map before, make great advantage of roads through corners,and no rules about retracing.
I think one of the maps shown was a 48 capitals trip, which makes it more of an 8000 mile problem. Having to return makes for an even longer distance, particularly if your start-finish is in an inconvenient arbitrary place.
You have to work your way through the employee chain to find someone who knows the rule, which for most states means use the model year of the motorhome, not the model year of the incomplete chassis.
Problem is not that they were built in different years, that is rarely the case. Most manufacturers do not leave parts inventory sitting out in the weather for months. The problem is RV manufacturers choice of model years, as they are somewhat exempt from DOT rules on this.
Chassis manufacturer can make 1997 MY chassis as early as October 96, can make it through December 97. Can't start 1998 MY until October 97. Georgie Boy starts making 1998 MY in March 1997, maybe some as early as January. So from March through October, every 1998 Georgie Boy is on a 1997 chassis, even if both chassis and completed vehicle were made in the same month.
Problem starts when someone uses the chassis VIN to register or title the vehicle. It also has a finished vehicle VIN that will be encoded with the model year of the finished vehicle. Use that VIN, there is no discrepancy. If a state requires use of the chassis VIN, they need to record both VINs. Not every clerk understands this. Some states may choose to be stubborn, then it is not even a motorhome, it is a Workhorse or Ford bare chassis that you are titling and licensing.
You eventually found the right clerk, I see, in a state that does the right thing. I had to bring the RV to the tag office so the tag office manager (no DMV involvement in Oklahoma) could come out to inspect the finished vehicle VIN.
You can mix brands if it is the same stuff. Most of the time it is 100% propylene glycol with only color and a bitter flavor added. This will usually be rated -50F and dyed pink. The label should list the ingredients.
From time to time I've come across other alcohol water mixtures, sometimes dyed pink or red. They might have lower ratings. They usually have a lower price. I would not want to predict the resulting level of protection if a propylene glycol antifreeze were mixed with a product made with a mixture of water and ethanol or isopropyl alcohol.
If I try peer through the reflections from your windshield to see whether or not you are waving, the distraction and pyschological tendency to steer towards the direction I am looking means we just might have a head-on collision.
Learned from a motorcycle safety course.
I find that the nearest standard size fits loosely, a flat sheet can be installed military bunk tight, if that's how you want and are willing to do the work.
Realistically, fitted sheets no longer can be assured to fit "standard" home mattress sizes, because of the great variation in thickness among various models of the same nominal size. Depending on costruction and where it is marketed on economy to super premium prices, a standard full or queen might be anywhere from four to eighteen inches thick. A fitted queen could be sloppy loose on one and not at all fit the other.
CruiseAmerica is the only natioal rental company I am aware of doing one-ways, and it take substantial advance reservation sometimes, and there is a one-way fee. The one-way fee isnot going to be as much as the mileage would be foe a two-way. Indeed, mileage will likely be your big cost, as daily allowances on RVs tend to be small,100-200 miles a day.
Six people, a 30 C will likely be more usable for six adults than any A much under 40 feet, as the two types are in different markets, with most A's designed as home for a couple, road trip for a family of four.
I am assuming you'll want to cook and sleep in it. Otherwise, a small travel coach or party coach might work better. I know of bus companies that have coaches with capacites from four to forty passengers, other up to about 8-12 with sleeping and lounge combinations. Since these are mostly used by entertainment road crews, many of the companies operate out of Nashville, but I know I can hire something like from Dallas, Oklahoma City, Peoria, Kansas City, considering the transportation companies I've traveled with. From KC, we've used Kincaid and Trailways. Starting from Atlanta, I would check for transportation companies operating from Atlanta, or may Jacksonville or Orlando.
These will not, howver, be rentals, they will be charters with drivers. They are priced accordingly. If you want a non-stop cross country run, you'll likely have to pay extra for two drivers, because of the mandatory rest periods.
Six people, long trip, that's usually executive transport category, something about the size of 18-30 passenger airport bus but with bar and lounge facilities for a smaller number of people, rather than full of seats. If you want bunks aor sleeping enroute, that is more or a crew coach, with bunks for four to eight people, lounge seating, entertainment type kitchen, toilet and maybe a shower, in a 38-45 foot motorcoach shell.
Just some alternatives to the RV/motorhome option, from someone who does it time to time.
I'm not going along with the idea that a $3500 tow vehicle is necessarily worn out. Prices drop quite a bit regardless of condition, on age alone. I just sold a Ford Ranger with 36,000 miles for $3000, 13 years old. When I was shopping TTs I found an eight year old supercab F-250, 45,000 miles, equipped with class V hitch and 18,000 fifth wheel hitch, for $4500. A RV dealer was using it for local deliveries and moving things around on the lot, and that price was for anyone buying a trailer with it.
4Runner, though, is not a good choice for towing a full-time size TT, unless you can full time in a very small space. Singles can learn to do that, can be a bit more difficult for couples, even more for just friends.
Old, low mileage potential tow vehcles exist, they are just hard to find. Particularly in the 3/4 ton category, where really good work trucks come off lease at 1-3 years with modest mileage and prices close to half of new, or owned trucks come out of the fleet at 8-12 years, really low prices, but totally worn out. Hard to find the in-between.
Used TTs are even more difficult at your price. Yes, age brings them down to that price rage, all sizes, but you'll look at a lot of 10-15 year old wrecks before you come across one well enough cared for to be usable without a lot of up front repair or rebuilding.
I've only looked a little at the conversion van market, but most of what I found was if they are old enough to have a $5000 or under price, they are also pretty well worn out. Most were bought for family travel, bought a high prices so "we have to keep it and use it" and got a lot of trips before finally deciding to sell the thing.
Full size U.S. made trucks the past 10-15 years, especially those in HD categories, had heavy enough running gear to be good for 100,000-150,000 miles if well cared for. They could be good for that much more, or they could be starting to be troublesome, and need some expensive work to extend the usefull life. Most of the ones you'll find for sale at low prices will be in the second category, i.e. "the value of this is just not high enough for me to spend $3000 more on a new ..." whatever it is that it now behaving as is near end of life.
I pack and unpack, because outside storage is just too hot for much of the year to leave behind anything heat sensitive or perishable. I work with the checklists my late wife developed for her inside part of it, but I don't take so much that it is any more than a 30 minute job, or more than 5-6 trips from the house to RV. The packing is a lot less work than the pre-trip mechanical inspection, water system sanitizing and flushing, which is a few hours spread over one or two days.
One thing that has helped has been keeping the checklist handy, so that I can note what did not get used, and what I needed that I failed to bring. Enough of this refinement, you'll find that you are packing a lot less stuff than you formerly packed.
I can run my A/C for about 30-45 minutes on a 15 amp circuit, no extension cord. Then the breaker trips thermally. The 15-30 adapter also gets pretty warm.
So you should do better with a 20, but the extension cord, even a 30 amp cord and additional connection resistance, is going to cost you some voltage. Try it, put in a voltage meter to see what happens to voltage inside RV when A/C is running. I don't like to see it below 108, not too much of a problem for me at home because I'm close to the transformer and get 130v at the garage outlet.
Watch all of your plugin connections, and the adaptor, for heating. If you have a problem, it will most likely be a socket or plug burning up. Especially if you have cheap 15 amp lamp-grade sockets on that 20 amp circuit.
A trailer to carry your camping gear, or a trailer to live in?
As a starting point, Smart says "no towing" but you can buy a hitch and people do tow up to 500-600 pound low profile trailers.
For carrying stuff, I would be looking at trailers sold through motorcycle dealers, although most motorcycles towing have considerably more excess power and cooling capacity than the Smart.
Fold something to sleep in, some motorcycle dealers also handle folding tent trailers, the smallest being around 400-600 pounds. I don't think you will find a travel trailer, not even a collapsible, that has facilities like kitchen and bathroom, and fold down to the frontal area of a Smart, much under 1000 pounds. The small retro TTs with just bed and maybe exterior kitchen I've been seeing have been in the 800-1200 pound range and 6 to 8 feet tall, 4-7 feet wide. Those would be the Little Guy, the 4-wide is targeted to Smart towing.
Researched this a lot looking for something to tow with my Honda Fit. Ended up buying a used one-ton van, changed the question.
Recently introduced MyPod is even smaller and more streamlined, but I have not yet seen it. Online it looks like a sleeping space only. Trailers like this are even manufactured for bicyclists to tow.
When my wife and I car camped, we managed without a trailer. Tent, kitchen, other camping gear fit into our two-suitcase sizec trunk. Don't know how carrying space of Smart compares..
May not be quite that long, depending on where you are going. When my daughter lived in Nashville, I would make it to there from Bartlesville by 4 PM if I started at 8 AM. Memphis is about six hours, Knoxville about 12, all of this timing of course depending on what happens when you go through each major city.
Going to Nashville, if I split into two days, I would end up somewhere in the Delta country between Little Rock and Memphis. Little Rock is too soon to stop unless you get a very late start the first day, and when going to Nashville, once I get east of Memphis it is "I'm almost there, let's finish the trip today."
Seat positions. The only forward facing seat really designed to hold a forward facing toddler seat will be the right front. It may not be LATCH but will at least be belt and tether. You have to turn the air bag off, and it is still not as safe as center-rear in most cars, but at least the toddler won't be where so much of the house will collapse on top of him.
I used the dinette when my granddaughters were toddlers. We got a special small seat that worked with belt only, pulled out cushions and belted firmly against the seat framework. Not all are built that way, and I've not seen the seat we used sold anywhere here, my daughter got it in Europe where standards were different. One child facing rear, the other facing front. With enough height of seat structure and the child seat, a forward mounted toddler seat facing rear might be safer than facing front, certainly safer than facing sideways on a sofa where the seat might not mount firmly.
The girls were four when they started traveling in the RV. My grandson is turning three next month, I still don't think he is ready for long RV trips. He does much better in a car, particularly when with his cousins.
We also have him facing rearward, he is small, and my daughter wants to keep him there until absolutely too big for a rear facing seat. There is a huge downgrade in safety when the child is being restrained by straps across chest and belly, versus restraint by spine, neck and head against a full surface impact absorbing structure, with some comfort padding over it.
Putting a child in a motorhome is always a safety compromise, compared to traveling in a modern car or passenger truck with today's required safety equipment. Depending on collision forces, things will be flying around, furnishings can break loose, and the whole structure can collapse or shatter into pieces. Compromises in child safety seat position with respect to the seat manufacturer's recommendations are probably minor after the compromise you make by choosing to carry the child in a fragile box full of loose components and furnishings. You probably have to see a wrecked RV to understand this.
There are many things I like about it, but I bought it for it's main function RV Routing. It does not do a good job of route planning. I have used Marine and Highway GPSs and always check the routes. Just saying with all the information and technology this should be a problem of the past. GPS has been around for what? 20+ years. The interstates and most roads have been around much longer. Much like Marco Polo we still need to rely on paper maps and commonsense.
The GPS satellites have been operational (full constellation of 24 birds) for 19 years, final launch of the first set was 1995.
Computerized automotive navigation, goes back to the mid 1980s using other location technologies, like radio direction finding and inertial guidance, but did not roll out to consumers until 1990 when inertial reference systems became stable enough for use in cars and costs could be brought down to a few thousand dollars. These functioned as moving map displays.
First GPS receivers for street use were shown at CES in 1998, but the modern "plan a route and talk me through it" technology did not show up until the GPS system was made available for public use in 2000, and navigation devices could incorporate a relatively inexpensive GPS receiver for location, rather than inertial systems. Actually for the talking part of it, I think more like 2002 with introduction of TomTom, followed quickly by the Nuvi with similar cost and capabilities. My earlier Street Pilot just beeped when it need to give me an instruction, which I had to read before it disappeared.
That is kind of a coincidence, as that is also when turn by turn navigation was finally introduced for pre-GPS automotive navigation systems. That first one (MASS) got locations data from wireless Internet connections, the way phones do now, but it worked only where an infrastructure was set up for it.
But the real problem with these devices, whether they use GPS or something else for location, is in the map databases. The maps have errors, permanently installed maps don't keep up with changing conditions, and we have expectations that don't match routing assumptions. On 101, the map database says the tunnel is too low for your RV, based on official information about clearances and the height information you supplied. You think it should route you that way, because you know you can make it through by keeping toward the center. That kind of information is too iffy for the routing program to deal with, when the official clearance info says the vehicle does not fit.
I'm wondering if the pure truck GPS units do a better job of keeping you off undesirable roads....you know, the roads you wouldn't drive your car on let alone a 45 foot mh?
A pure truck GPS should keep you on "designated" routes to which big commercial truck is restricted by law. This is a much more restrictive routing that possibly used for RVs, if the RV map database is correct. RVs are generally not subject to the "designated highway" legal restriction.
There may be further point restrictions based on size and weight, in some cases. The RV mode should be catching these physical restrictions.
I suspect there is a single point physical restriction in the map database for the route OP prefers to take. The restriction may not be real, or it might have been temporary. But this is more likely the problem than any fundamental flaw in the routing algorithms, and it is something that gets corrected with map updates.
When I first got a routing GPS, it had difficulty getting me from my home to downtown, just ten blocks on a through street that goes to a three-way intersection a block from my house, and the three streets have different names. Garmin couldn't handle it, Streets and Trips couldn't handle it, Mapquest couldn't handle it. They all sourced maps from what was then known as NavTeq. DeLorme Street Atlas knew how to get through that intersection, DeLorme makes their own maps.
NavTeq eventually caught the error, Garmin got the update out first, it was a couple more versions of Streets and Trips before that one was fixed.
Another error I caught on NavTeq maps was in West Lafayette. Going north out of town, the maps had me going up one of the local through roads to turn right on Sagamore Parkway. At point I was to turn, the parkway is elevated, there is no intersection, no ramp, no frontage road. Somebody was coding the intersection points (nodes in GIS terminology) from old maps. The version of S&T I am currently using still has the error.
Not only can you not totally depend on routing programs because of map database errors, you cannot necessarily depend totally on paper maps and atlases. They get out of date as roads are changed, and they simply have errors. Maps used to be drawn from aerial photography, what is seen from the air might be different from the situation on the ground.
Additionally, published maps at one time had intentional errors for the purpose of catching copyright violations. I once tried to take a road that wasn't there in South Carolina to a town that was actually someplace else a couple miles away. I don't remember the map publisher on that one, but I got a map from another publisher that had better information for that location.
You will not find much variation in quality of map databases from brand to brand, as there are not that many companies building routing databases, most brands are buying the same maps. Different brands buy updates at different intervals, and even when you buy two different brands the same day, the vintages of map data could be several years apart.
I've come to like Google Maps because they are doing their own work, rather that buying from someone else, and they are constantly at it, running vehicles on the streets and highways to develop ground truth.
That was a nice decription for construction of a framed trailer, but the Rockwood is laminated wall.
An aluminum perimeter frame with some stiffeners is set into a foam core that has had channels cut for the frame, and for routing in-wall wiring. Don't know about F-R, but some manufacturers put the wiring harness in the channels at this stage. Also in cutouts in the foam core will be the attachment plates, heavier plywood or sheet metal, for everything that will hang on the interior or exterior of the wall.
On this goes a precut interior panel the size of the whole wall, which has adhesive on it. Flipped over, a precut luan exterior panel the size of the whole wall, with adhesive is applied. What happens next depends on pressing technology at the plant.
If using mechanical presses, this luan-foam-luan sandwich gets pressed as the adhesive sets. Then the outer fiberglass skin, pre-cut and whole wall size, with adhesive, is layed on the sandwich and the wall gets pressed again.
If using vacuum bonding, the outer skin goes on before pressing, the whole thing goes in the bag at once, and pressed together for a longer time. Slower setting adhesives are used.
But either way, the entire surface of the interior and exterior panels is glued to that foam core. This sandwich is what gives the wall its basic strength, and it is meant to never come apart.
What happens when a wall like this gets wet inside is that the luan panel rots, its own two or three layers separate. Remnants of luan will be pretty well stuck to the foam. Because the adhesive is stronger than the foam, chances are pretty good that pulling off the interior panel where it is still solid, or cleaning remnants where it rotted, will tear up the foam core.
What happens in further manufacture varies. In some RVs, all the interior fixtures that will set on the floor are set on the floor. The laminated wall can be set on the floor, or it can be fastened to the edge of the floor frame (or if Winnebago, two metal channels interlock.
The ceiling and roof might be built up framed with rafters or trusses atop the walls, or the whole thing might be another sandwich panel (this is still pretty rare in low cost TTs). If coming as a single piece, the top might screw to the edges of the wall, the wall might screw to the edges of the roof structure, or interlocking metal channels might be used.
The result, for repair purposes, is that to repair a badly damage laminated panel wall, it is necessary to detach everything from the wall, including the roof, and remove the wall from the RV, replacing it with a newly built wall, or at least rebuild the wall as it was originally built on the bench, if you can do so without destroying the foam core.
This makes laminated walls so expensive to repair that a major delamination is often a total loss, even on a fairly new TT. It is not usually a DIY job because of the need for the specialized materials, tooling, workspace, and pressing equipment.
This is one reason some RV buyers prefer walls that are built up as frames, rather than laminated foam core panels. These are still not simple to repair, but repairs can be made.
If your roof-ceiling structure is not laminated, that is probably reparable. The section over the slideout, what has most likely happened is that the luan panel has come apart, and you might be able to make a cosmetic repair. I don't know that you can make a structural repair, to restore the original strength of that section over the slideout.
Whether or not you need to restore that strength, I also don't know. If you are lucky, most of that section might have aluminum framing, a header over the slide opening and some studs carrying the weight of the of the roof support channel down to the header. But this framing, if there, is primarily reinforcement of that narrow section over the large opening, because in a laminated panel, the main load carrying is done by the inner and outer skins, as they are bonded to the foam core. You will not regain that strength with a local patch, and you are not likely to duplicate the bond strength without pressing the wall.
I wish you good luck. As it is a small damaged area (or maybe I should say, if it really is just a small area that has come apart) you might have some probability of success, if you are careful in the future not to put to much weight on the roof over that slide opening.
Mostly they are matched to two classes of tow bars.
Roadmaster attaches towing brackets permanently to the car, then attaches a removable baseplate (which comes with the tow bar) to those brackets.
BlueOx, Demco, some older manufacturers no longer prominent in the retail towbar business, permanently attach a baseplate to the car, providing "tabs" to which the towbar is attached. There are differences in tab configurations, but there are also adapters. Other towbar makers like NightShift Auto (ReadyBrute brand) will attach to a Blue Ox or Demco baseplate.
Things are starting the change, as some modern cars don't have the front end strength to handle two independent towing brackets, so the Roadmaster towing brackets for this will include hidden baseplate. These models often replace the cars hidden bumper. The external baseplate or cross-bar is still attached before hooking up the towbar.
You can do adaptations. You can buy an external baseplate to attach certain BlueOx towbars to Roadmaster brackets. You can buy fittings to install the external crossbar/baseplate from Roadmaster to the tabs coming out from a BlueOx permanent baseplate. But you can't necessarily adapt anything to anything.
The cleanest looking (if you are looking for "invisible") installation is made by using brackets or baseplate from the manufacturer of the towbar, or at least of the same type of towbar connection.
I chose my type of towbar based on the instructions for fitting of brackets or baseplate. For my Ford Ranger, I chose the Demco baseplate for how it attached to the frame horns and where the tabs came out, the others were much lower for that installation. For my Honda Fit, I chose the BlueOx baseplate, because of how it attached and because when all put together, I still had my original bumper. The Roadmaster bracket/baseplate solution for that car and model year meant discarding Honda's impact-absorbing bumper.
So with any given car, not only will the fittings be different for different towbar brands, but the installation might be quite different for various baseplate/bracket brands.
The fact that the Admiral is on 22.5 wheels and the Mirada is not, suggests that the Mirada is built on a lighter capacity (lower GVWR) chassis. Empty, it might be nearly overloaded.
You actually have given me a lot of information in your post. I didn't know about interlocked walls - still not sure what I would look for to confirm whether or not they are. But good information none-the-less.
I am pretty sure this particular coach was made by Monaco. Depending on the source (like everything else) some people like Monaco... others don't - for what that is worth.
One thing I found TRUELY interesting is that they both have a GVWR of 22,000lbs. Considering that the HR has a higher UVW... it means that it is closer to being overloaded than the Mirada is.
I am learning more with each post!
It is a H-R gasser, so it was built either at the H-R plant in Wakarusa, or by R-Vision. C and A gas motorhomes in that era with brand names owned by Monaco Corp (H-R, Safari, Monaco) were built by one of those two Monaco Corp owned companies. The Monaco plant would have been building premium diesel pushers for those three brands.
So I'm not sure what you mean by 'built by Monaco' whether you think the Monaco division built it or just that Monaco Corp owned the company. If built by R-Vision, it would have been built by R-Vision only after Monaco Corp bought R-Vision, but would have been built differently than way Holiday Rambler built those three brands for Monaco Corp.
Eclipse is still in business, can probably provide a new door. Although they have a factory service department (Riverside) they recommend starting by taking the problem to the selling dealer.
Yes, if you don't see fasteners, it is likely held together by adhesives, which were probably cured or set up under pressure. I haven't been to that plant, don't know whether they use slow-setting adhesives and vacuum bags, or thermally cured adhesives and presses.
Whatever you use if you DIY, you will need to clamp it together while the glue sets up, at least that's my experience fixing my RV bodywork.
My father delivered mail...his route required him to drive an LLV...He could not "walk, rub, skate ride a bicycle, take the bus or subway"... Of course his vehicle did not meet the above requirements....
That can be about when and where, also. The CDL is fairly new, not yet 30 years. When I drove vehicles for the Federal government, I did not need a state-issued driver's license at all, and purposely left my DL at home in those circumstances. The DOD issued me an appropriate license for what I was required and qualified to drive.
But that may not be how the U.S. Post Office did it. Or later, the USPS, which is supposedly no longer an agency of the U.S. Government.
USC Title 49, says that you need a CDL to operate a "commercial vehicle". Under the same title in definitions, a "Commercial Vehicle" is described as:
(4)“commercial motor vehicle” means a motor vehicle used in commerce to transport passengers or property that—
(A)has a gross vehicle weight rating or gross vehicle weight of at least 26,001 pounds, whichever is greater, or a lesser gross vehicle weight rating or gross vehicle weight the Secretary of Transportation prescribes by regulation, but not less than a gross vehicle weight rating of 10,001 pounds;
(B)is designed to transport at least 16 passengers including the driver; or
(C)is used to transport material found by the Secretary to be hazardous under section 5103 of this title, except that a vehicle shall not be included as a commercial motor vehicle under this subclause if—
(i)the vehicle does not satisfy the weight requirements of subclause (A) of this clause;
(ii)the vehicle is transporting material listed as hazardous under section 306(a) of the Comprehensive Environmental Response, Compensation, and Liability Act of 1980 (42 U.S.C. 9656(a)) and is not otherwise regulated by the Secretary or is transporting a consumer commodity or limited quantity of hazardous material as defined in section 171.8 of title 49, Code of Federal Regulations; and
(iii)the Secretary does not deny the application of this exception to the vehicle (individually or as part of a class of motor vehicles) in the interest of safety.
Application can vary state to state, as states are permitted to be more strict. Paragraph (B) requirements might be as low as 9 passengers, even not driving for hire. A 11, 12, 14 or 15 passenger van in private use might require a CDL. This is one reason I permanently pulled the unused back seat out of my 12 passenger van, to stay out of trouble on licensing in states that are more strict on passenger count. People with huge families, actually needing to carry 12 or 15 people, have to be careful where they travel. Same for drivers for clubs and church groups.
Similarly, a state can change that 26,001 to something less, and it can also create a special class of non-commercial license to be require to operate a vehicle of a certain size.