If you can find insurance, it will be pricey. Unless you are eligible for Medicare, and you might still consider that pricey. Adjust your expectations.
When I retired at age 58 to travel, I signed up with an Aetna "Traditional" plan that covered wife and me nationally (80% with very high deductibles and out of pocket maximums) for about $2200 a month premium. When traveling outside the U.S. we also bought travel insurance with emergency medical coverage. Premiums are high for "take it anywhere" coverage using nationwide networks, and it will never be 100%, can be as low as 50% for out of network.
So leading up to Medicare, I paid almost $200,000 in health insurance premiums for coverage we didn't use for five years, until my wife's terminal illness, which cost the insurance plan at least $900,000 and cost us another $150,000 over three years for deductibles, co-pays and treatments not covered by insurance.
Since her death, I've been on Medicare, paying about $6000 a year in Part B, Part D and Supplement premiums, deductibles and co-pays. So far, Medicare and the supplement pay almost nothing because I don't need much medical care, it all falls within deductibles.
I know things have changed with the ACA, for those not on Medicare, and the nationwide coverage options are probably fewer now, but when you find insurance for travel, be aware that it will not be cheap. To meet the "affordable" part, insurers have moved more into HMOs, localized providers, and managed care. Carte blanche will be expensive, and if you find an insurer that still offers that type of policy, premiums will be very high and coverage less than 100%.
If not yet on Medicare, you need to find an insurance broker and explain your needs, but expect to pay high premiums.
If on Medicare, taking Part B and an F supplement (UHC covers nationally) will provide the most complete coverage, N supplement will cover about 80% with slightly lower premiums.
Although not "normal" you might encounter winter weather anywhere along that route in the second half of October, or it could be warm and dry. My Southern Michigan children and siblings have had snow before Halloween the past two years, and the northern plains have seen their first winter storms in early October. But if it gets wintry on the plains, it doesn't last long, so waiting it out is a possibility.
Northern Rockies, earliest snows can occur late August, early September, but then again it is not winter here to stay, just an early sample. I've crossed passes as far south as southern Colorado in September, to find snow piled up from earlier storms, but the roads were dry and the weather warm when I went through. At the other extreme, it can still be quite warm; you have to prepare for all possibilities.
I think you will find that your RV park options along US-90 are either at Bay St Louis or Biloxi and beyond, with little in between. I'm not sure, my daughter left the Biloxi area for a new assignment in Kansas three years ago, so I have not visited since then.
My own preference is the Davis Bayou camping area in the Gulf Islands National Seashore (senior discounts and all that) but that would be campground, not RV park, and it is well beyond Biloxi, a bit east of Ocean Springs.
Happens often at this time of year. 2016 brochures and websites will be made up fall and winter 2014 based on meetings with customers (dealers are the manufacturers' customers) and production of 2016,brochure models starts Jan-March 2015 with first deliveries April and May.
When models don't sell early spring, dealers feed retail customers' concerns back to factory sales staff, unpopular models don't get made anymore (some may not get made ever) and production shifts to models features that are selling. Additional models are introduced to retail customer preferences, never make any retail catalog, though dealers should have catalog pages for these.
It is an acquired skill. Two points are most important:
1. You know the value to you of what it is that you want. A satisfactory deal is when the price fits that value. That an even lower price might be possible, or that someone else might get a better deal, does not matter..
2. You have to be willing to walk away when you can't get the price that matches value. Otherwise, you are at the mercy of the negotiator on the other side of the deal.
I've been in negotiations for assets at the billion dollar level. If we can't figure out #1, we had no business being there. That can involve a lot of homework, a significant investment of time (andtime is money). I've been in negotiations where my management didn't pay attention to #2, had to win at any cost, and sometimes winning meant losing.
The house has to fit your needs, living init, traveling in it. in a RV club with 200+ man-years experience spread over 30-40 members drifting through 30 year life of club, I don't think anyone has traded or sold a RV because of quality issues, they make their swaps because their choices don't fit their needs, their needs change, and some just would do something else than RV.
Specific features that work for one family don't work for another. I know what works for me. I need everything accessible without changing the configuration of the motorhome, that includes not having to move slideouts. That's because we lived in thing on the move, stopping in the middle of nowhere (or the center of a busy city) for lunches or potty breaks.
I like the shower being separate from the bathroom, and the dressing area being yet another space,so that people doing different things getting ready for the day have different places and can do them at the same time. If there is only place where everything gets done, one person at a time in sequence,it can take hours for agroup to get moving in the morning. OTOH if there is only one person, or if privacy/modesty are non-issues, this all matters less.
Slideouts are features. They make RVs roomier when camped, can cake them less usable when underway. Some people only use their RVs when camped for a while. Others want full use enroute. As one of the latter group, I don't think I will buy another RV forwhich slide outs reduce functionality when moving, or mean that getting up and getting ready slows down the process of getting under way,.
But you've decided you want a superslide, while I, with two slides, would rather nit have one at all. Different strokes for different folks.
At 43,000 miles the chassis is barely broken in if properly maintained, but the house is 10+ years old and needs continuous attention even if not used. So you need a RV expert to look at it, mor than a mechanic.
Greyhawk was Jayco's mid range motorhome in 2004, fitting between an "essentials all included" Escapade and a Granite Ridge with "luxury" interior furnishings. No better, no orse than other manufacturers' mid-range lines, but recognize that many in that era used mid-range as their entry level,as did Jayco before and after the years they offered Escapade. All Jayco C lines were made on the same lines using the same production methods in 2004.
You want it to have no damage from long-term water leaks, and no leaks now. Other than structural damage from leaks, most other issues tend to be minor. If you plan to use the generator, make sure that is working, as they tend to become a problem when not regularly used. I have two friends in my RV club who have never run the generators in their C's, peroid of ownership three to five years, and have no confidence that the things will start. That is one component that tends to be expensive to repair, because the work usually has to be bench for access, and remove/reinstall labor can be high.
Sure it was Dodge chassis? I think the Federal bailout of Chrysler in the1970s took them out of the medium truck and RV business before Newmar introduced slideouts for RVs.
In the early 1970s when most RVs were on Dodge chassis, most C's were 19-21 feet long, anything more than 24' was unusual.
Not really a class C chassis. That would mean a cab-chassis or cutaway.
What it is, E-series bare chassis used for GVWR up to 14,500 GVWR, F-53 bare chassis over that rating. No different from when everyone was using the Chevy chassis, G-series up to 12,300 pounds, P-series from that rating up to 18,000, which was not exceeded until Workhorse took overthe chassis business and introduced the W-series for ratings 20,000 and beyond.
Peak horsepower of the version of the V-10 used in the E-series could be boosted by 20% if there was room for exhaust headers, and the ECM is reprogrammed to raise the torque peak to a higher RPM range. There are Banks packages to do this for the two-valve V-10 in F-series and the F-53 motorhome chassis, but the headers don't fit the E-series engine room. Somebody else may have a high-flow exhaust that fits.
This doesn't help your problem with high revs. To raise the peak horsepower, it is necessary to extend the already impressive torque curve to a higher RPM, so to get 360 HP rather than the factory 295-305, you have to get it at 4800-5200 RPM, rather than the 4500-5000 range that gives you around 300 HP now.
If you want big torque and higher power at lower RPM, you need a bigger engine, or a supercharger that effectively makes a smaller engine bigger, in terms of the amount of air pumped through. There was once a kit that used a positive-displacement (Rootes-type) blower on the V-10 to increase airflow and torque 30-40% across the whole RPM range, but this was designed for pickup truck applications and probably does not fit the space of an E-series engine compartment.
My experience is that I can live in my RV for about the same cost as living at home, which is a low cost, low land value area. But I still have to pay those costs at home.
Moving around in the RV, that costs a lot more than living in it. But the biggest cost is just owning it. That's whether I use it or not. I know people living RV lifestyles with costs in the range of $600-800 a month and have met others living a $10,000 a month lifestyle, and I'm sure it can go higher.
Yes, there are RV lots to be purchased in quite a few different. places. If that is the question.
Can you buy a small piece of land just anywhere, and live on it in a RV, then no. You will have to deal with zoning and housing codes, which have become more widespread and more strict over the past 50 years s. I cannot make the same choices my grandfather made when he moved to rural Florida a little more than 100 years ago.
You have to consider the shape of your load. There are a few hatches like the Focus and Mazda 3 that have "cargo volume" numbers to match some somewhat heavier SUVs, but small boxy subminis like Qube may have space that works better.
I plug in a Chromecast, which can show almost anything being viewed in Google's Chrome browser, on PC, Mac, phone or tablet. It does require that you have some control over the WiFi connection being used, e.g. I can't see it piggybacking on a public WiFi, although it might be technically possible on an open WiFi.
I've encountered two problems. The first is when the controlling device goes to sleep or otherwise drops the connection to the content provider, the Chromecast might just go on playing the content to the end, and I have to cut power to force it to reboot. The other is when there is a connection glitch from net to the device, causing either a "brain freeze" or a "sorry, Chromecast has to reboot." The first almost always restarts the stream (NetFlix, at least) on the PC or Mac, and it can again be directed to the Chromecast. The second, the PC or other controlling device does not catch on that it has lost control, and the session needs to be restarted there, too.
Because of the way I'm using the Chromecast, I'm considering replacing it with something that does not require control from another device. In your case, however, it would work if all your content can be played through a Chrome browser.
VGA cable gives you VGA results, but anything on the laptop screen is on the TV, which is not the case for most of the other devices, which are going to the net for the content rather than carrying your screen display.
Unless the TV is fairly new and a "smart" TV what looks like a USB is probably a service port, and not recommended for any USB device, not even for power. If it is a smart TV, it can probably go to the net for content all by itself.
Went just across the state line from Arkansas into Oklahoma and bought our 5th wheel. Did not pay a penny in Oklahoma sales tax but paid 6.5% in sales tax for Arkansas when it was registered. I had 30 days to complete this.
Oklahoma does not charge sales tax on vehicles, whether going out of the state or staying in the state. So this is an atypical circumstance.
Instead, we pay an excise tax when a vehicle is titled, which may or may not be partially offset by sales tax paid in another state, depending on tax compacts. I've been burned on this, so like I say, do your homework.
What is "typical?" There are trailers intended for easy towing that are kept to 6 1/2 width and height of 8 foot or less, and travel trailers go up to 12 feet in height and 8 width for the "luxury" market where high ceilings are a feature. 7 1/2 or 8 wide combined with height between 10 and 11 is pretty common in the "lightweight" market, although the low height is often gained by running low to the ground, and some owners find themselves flipping the axles or otherwise lifting their low profile TTs to gain groung clearance.
You need to visit some RV dealerships, go to RV shows, act out living in various size trailers (and or motorhomes) to figure out just what it is that you need for the way you want to live in it. You don't have to buy new, but before seriously shopping, you need to figure out what kind of space your RV lifetyle needs.
Your mid-size SUV, if upgraded for towing, has limitations beyond "maximum tongue weight" and "maximum tow weight" figures, as the tongue weight has to fit along with people and stuff into the "maximum cargo capacity" of the SUV and there will often be tradeoffs between what you can carry and what you can tow. Even with one-ton full size van, I can carry 3000 pounds or tow 6500 pounds, but can't do both at the same time. At max tow, payload is down to a little over a ton.
A further, often neglected, limitation on tow capacity of cars, SUVs and light trucks is the "frontal area" assumption, which is often a number close to the frontal area of the vehicle, with no formula for how a larger area should reduce "tow capacity." For the Honda-built SUVs, vans, and more powerful luxury sedans, there is a history of the automatic transmission not being up to the loads that can be imposed; I know earlier models got included in a settlement for extended warranty, don't know how this applies to 2006 model year. I do know my daughter had to have transmissions rebuilt early on her 1999 and 2006 model year Honda minivans, but that didn't keep her from buying yet another one.
What you can reasonably expect to tow would include molded fiberglass "eggshell" trailers in the 13-17 foot range, with max weights under 3500 and frontal areas around 50 sq ft (rather than 75-96 sq ft of typical box-shaped TTs) but these are pretty small for extended living. I do know people who do this, and others that even live extended times in folding trailers, but they've greatly simplified their lifestyles, and often combine the small TT with a tow vehicle having good cargo capacity, like a pickup with a shell or a full size van.
We have one couple in our RV club who pulls a 19-foot Amerilite with a V-6 Highlander, but they don't pull it very far (few hundred miles a year) or live in it very long (3-5 days at a time).
BTW, I pay $9.95 for oil and filter change, and vehicle inspection, on my (daily driver) one-ton passenger van, at the Ford dealer. Some other places will do it for about $20, Honda dealer wants at least $25 for the oil change on the Fit I tow behind my motorhome from time to time. Expensive service has more to do with diesel vs gas, than capacity of the light truck.
Someone quoting $500 doesn't want the job. The most expensive tires you can buy in the size used for vans and van cutaways should be under $300 installed and you might find cheap tires close to half that.
In your area there are tens of thousands of vans and small commercial vehicles using the same tires, so there must be tire dealers that service them. This work is often done outside, places like Walmart, Sears etc often have a policy of not working on anything that can't be brought in and put on a lift. A Chevrolet or Ford TRUCK dealership will do the job, but maybe not at the lowest price.
I like to buy my tires through an alignment shop that does medium duty trucks, because an alignment check (but not realignment) and brake inspection in included with tire installation. I pay about 10% over Tire Rack wholesale, which is a bit under Tire Rack retail Internet prices, for the tires, mounting, balancing, and the inspection freebies.
No specific recommendations for San Jose, but I know what kind of place to look for, anywhere. It will usually be along the highway or near a truck route through town, or in a light industrial zone, not in strip mall or shopping center annex.