I'm not sure about 2002, but when I was shopping in 2004-2006 Fleetwood was touting TPO on their Tioga/Jamboree roofs as a superior fabric.
I don't think EPDM roofing was bonded to other materials in RV applications. TPO was sometimes fabric backed.
You haven't really talked about what you do. If it involves moving around continuously, staying on highways, a B (van conversion) can work, and since it need not be any larger than a full size SUV (sizes range from under 19 to 25 feet) it might be parked in places that have large vehicle restrictions, though it might be trickier if you have to deal with commercial vehicle restrictions.
Truck camper works better, on an appropriate truck, if you want to go off road or use wilderness roads. A small camper on a tall 4x4 pickup retains most of its ground clearance, while a B typically has less ground clearance than the original commercial van, because of the RV stuff that gets hung off the frame under the floor. Not all designs, but typical.
If you spend a lot of time living in it, a small A or C motorhome might be more comfortable than a camper van or truck camper. This depends on how many people and how much space each needs, and how you feel about daily conversion of multiple-use spaces.
You might check all your rules (HOA as well as city codes) on RV parking, because there might be more to the restrictions than length. My city has length and height limits defining what can be parked in a driveway and what needs to be hidden behind the house.
For long-term camping I have a 29 foot C that I keep in storage. For traveling, and as a base for tent camping, I have a 12 passenger van from which I've pulled seats and done some minor conversion. As a passenger van of that size, the city code treats it the same as a large SUV, though it is about a half foot taller than a 4WD Suburban.
Pittsburgh is a pretty good starting point. From there your two-day travel time and 600-700 mile Myrtle Beach distance could take you to:
Almost anywhere in New England or Upstate New York, but particularly the Adirondacks or White Mountains.
Anywhere in Michigan, including the Upper Peninsula, which has hundreds of destinations that fit description of what you say you like.
Nashville, with nice public campgrounds outside the city, decent RV parks on Music City Row, and a town full of historic and musical attractions. Or stretching the distance, Memphis, which might not be quite as gentile, but Elvis was there.
Atlanta, Chicago, or St Louis, if you are inclined to visit cities. NYC, DC and Boston are also within reach, but are not so easy as RV destinations.
The southern Appalachians, either the natural beauty of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, or the commercial attractions at Gatlinburg or Dollywood, depending on your inclinations. You might not be up to the climb to Clingman's Dome.
Branson area of Missouri-Arkansas might be another day of driving. The attractions are sort of a hillbilly Disneyworld or family-friendly Las Vegas. From Pittsburgh, however, Dollywood is a start on the same theme, closer to home.
A motorhome on the F-53 chassis might have a towing capacity as high as 10,000 pounds or as little as 4,000 pounds. It depends on the size of the motorhome, as smaller ones leave more of a basic 26,000 GCWR available for towing.
Ford and Chevrolet truck dealers are easier to find than Mercedes-Benz truck dealers, though some Freightliner dealers help fill in the gap. With the realignment of franchises under FCA, I'm no longer sure what is the status of dealer support for medium truck chassis under the RAM brands, although in rural areas I'm finding most dealers sell and service Chrysler, Dodge and RAM passenger vehicles and light trucks.
Mercedes-Benz parts, even service parts and special lubricants, tend to be more expensive than domestic models.
Both parks are huge. You need a vehicle to get around. A shuttle to the gate would not be of much use.
Parking at the most popular stops, in Arches particularly, can be problematic at the busiest times of day at the busier times of the year. In October 2007, I found a few stops where there was no parking for anything larger than a motorcycle at mid-day, but there was plenty of space early morning and approaching sunset.
You have to work out adjustments for inflation.
In the early 1960s I could buy a new Rambler American for $1500 but what I actually bought was a slightly used Renault 8 for $650. A good working wage was $100 a week, my military salary was $330 a month, gas was 20 cents a gallon and cigarettes 35 cents a pack (17 cents if I bought them in North Carolina).
My second car was a $2400 BMW (same salary, I had to finance) and the third a $3200 Audi. By 1980 my new Chevy Citation was $7000 but I was making $3000 a month. $3000 a month today is "poverty level" although there are still places where $5 is considered a good wage, but those people don't buy cars.
It's not that bad today if you are modest about what you buy. My 2012 Honda Fit was $12,000 new (and functionally comparable to the 1968 BMW) and not to long ago I got a slightly used one-ton van (19,000 miles) for just over $20,000. The price of a E-150 with all the trimmings was $42,000, almost half the price being electronic tech and upgraded trim.
Folks paying high prices for trucks and SUVs are mostly buying electronic tech that was not available at any price 50 years ago.
I have always done it alone and I have a rigid (no adjustment) tow bar. I use 2 magnetic, extendable, rods with a ball on top. Just drive forward until the balls touch and hook it up. Pretty easy and simple. They are available from RV dealers.
But how do you hold the tow bar out in front the toad so you can line up? That part was the one I struggled with for a fixed tow bar.
I started with a fixed length tow bar, used chains hooked into eye-bolts I put in the bumper to hold it slightly above level. I eventually got an extensible tow bar to replace it.
Tow bar brand doesn't matter, type or which model within a brand does matter. You want an extensible towbar, rather than a rigid one, so that you get within range of extensibility rather than trying to move the towed vehicle to match up a connection within an inch or so.
You also need to work out your own procedures, which might be different for grades vs level ground. This mostly has to do with when to set a parking brake, when to release it, and takes some running back and forth if doing it all single. Basically, your towed vehicle needs to be free to tow it, sometimes to extend and lock the bar, but you don't want it free to move when you are standing between the RV and the toad. One thing I've found sometimes unhooking, I need the toad free to move in order to unlock the towbar arms, but want the parking brake on before I pull the pins.
Solo with a tow dolly is also doable, because you deal with hooking up the dolly when it is empty and presumably light enough to manhandle, and toad goes on and off the dolly only when it is hooked up and stabilized by the motorhome.
I'm using a Blue Ox Aladdin, the aluminum construction helps keep weight down for handling the equipment off the RV, 7500 pound capacity is adequate for my 2600 pound toad. Ready-Brute is in the same class with integrated braking available, Roadmaster's Sterling All-Terrain is equivalent, because while not aluminum, it has the equivalent capacity and is still lightweight. Roadmaster offers lighter capacities (Falcon) and heavier (Blackhawk) in their all-terrain lines (lever operated rather than push button).
Main reason for the Aladdin was a local RV dealer had one used, almost new, for about half price. If it had been a Falcon with the same deal, I probably would have bought that. My first tow was under 4000 pounds, and they've gotten smaller since.
It depends on the local market and the dealer. Something between 20 and 30% below MSRP is often negotiable, for brands sold through dealers.
For direct sales from a factory, the price is sometimes negotiable for what might be in stock, but not always negotiable for built to order, but when there are no dealers MSRP doesn't really have a meaning.
Look at prices offered by discount outlets like RV Direct, use that as a bargaining goal with working with dealers selling the same thing.
I've tried several different routes during the three years my daughter lived in Ocean Springs. From Little Rock.
I-530/US-65 to I-20 to US-49 at Jackson. US-65 gets quite lonely, and rough slow two lane, in Louisiana. It is better road in Arkansas.
I-40 to I-55 to I-12 to I-10 (gets messy around Memphis, and had construction detours on I-40 during that period).
I-530/US-65 to US-82 at Lake Village, crossing at Greenville. Pick up US-49 at Indianola (became my preferred route, for traffic and spacing of rest stops). Greenville is slow going through.
I-530/US-65 to US-82 at Lake Village, crossing toward Greenville. Mississippi SR-1 on west side, down to US-61 to bypass Greenville. US-61 to I-20, I-20 to US-49 at Jackson. This is another lonely road, and was in rough shape when I last used it.
We've had different sleep cycles for 40+ years. We've never closed doors or curtains. Our RV had only curtains, they were unused because my late night activities did not impact her sleeping. Her getting up early did not impact my sleep, unless she started frying bacon. I have a very good nose.
For control of sound, light, smell in a RV, there is really no difference between a door and a curtain. There is not much to a RV door.
It is a brand name for TPO roofing frabric. Maintains its original color longer the EPDM fabrics, usually.
The materials, EPDM and TPO especially, have not been in service long enough (10-20 years) to determine which has a longer life, considering that the most recent TPO formulations have not much more than five years experience.
A trailer designed to install and use a RV genset would be easier than trying to work out a location to install generator on a RV not so equipped, and providing ad hoc electrical connections and fuel supply.
Northwood makes some generator-ready models in their Arctic Fox line. Several lines of fifth-wheels, particularly toy haulers.
For a trailer, fuel supply is most likely LPG. A generator large enough to reliably power your RV air conditioner will go through about 3-4 pounds of fuel per hour, whether that is gasoline or LPG. Keeping up with fuel needs could be your most pressing problem keeping air conditioning running. In motorhomes, this is usually managed by tapping the large fuel supply for the engine that moves the RV.
It would be interesting to see the specs on the offering. A "worksite generator" could be 1.5 to 2.4 KW, easy to support with a 200 amp alternator matched to a good 120V inverter of that size. Most current offerings of "emergency vehicle" or "ambulance" packages for Class 3 to Class 5 trucks readily handle these loads, so what might be novel is moving the option (easily achieved with an alternator upgrade) down into the Class 1 truck market. Hybrid tech not needed, just install a bigger alternator at a cost of about $30 at factory.
The loads you are speculating about for RV needs are in the 8-10 KW range, requiring up to 40-50 KWH battery storage for your scenario, and 800-1000 amps of alternator capacity to back it up. With respect to engine output, 10 KW is in the 12-15 horsepower range, readily available at a fraction above idle for any prime mover capable of moving a 7 to 20 ton RV at highway speeds. It is just a matter of supplying a large enough generator or alternator was attached to the engine. Hybrid tech usually means installing an alternator/motor in the 20-50 HP range, so with a hybrid the electric powerplant becomes a freebie rather than an extra cost option.
There exists, today, "all electric" Class A and Class B motorhomes with such capabilities, without any need for hybrid propulsion. It is just a matter of sizing the battery bank and the engine-driven charging system. The Class A offerings usually have an independent genset backing up the batteries, as the smaller 10-20 HP genset
engine is usually more fuel efficient than running a 400-600 HP prime mover at idle power.
I love our 6.8L V10 F250. If we ever had to replace it, I'd be looking at an older truck with a V10 in it. Use it primarily for towing and gets little use over the winter.
We have 4.10 gears and it will out-tow just about any other pickup on steep hills. From BC to CA, over to NV and back via UT and ID, got on avg. 8-9 mpg and IIRC, as low as 6 something on a long steep uphill leg and 11 something on a long downhill leg. As high as 6600' elev. so far as well as some steep grades and no lack of power towing a 7K lb TT. MPG really sux on short local trips.
They oughta come out with an eco-boost V10. Make V10s great again. :)
I would like to put a supercharger on my V-10 motorhome.
It's possible if you don't mind spending a lot of money.
Whipple made one for the Triton V-10 in the 1990s. It was a positive displacement blower (as used for scavenging 2-cycle diesels). It needed a lot of room under the hood, so I don't know about fit into motorhome chassis. The positive displacement blower is very noisy.
Vortech and Paxton once made kits for centrifugal superchargers for the V-10. These were an even more difficult fit than the Whipple, and the boost profiles were more suitable for drag racing than boosting low RPM torque. Turbochargers have also been installed on the V-10 in F-series and Excursion applications (not to mention V-10s that have gotten stuffed into Mustangs).
Probably not, if it must really be shorter than 26 feet, because even with slideouts making more room, you need a larger box to fit kitchen, bathroom, sofa, dinette, and a bed on the floor.
With dinette, but not sofa, this was a common size and layout for the rental market for about 10-15 years from the late 1990s until the collapse of the RV industry in 2007 to 2008.
Models 22B and 24D from Fleetwood in the Jamboree and Tioga lines. There was a 26Q that had the rear bed open on two sides, but that was 27 feet or longer and still had either sofa or dinette, but not both.
Model 24M from Jayco in the briefly made Escapade line. You could get sofa, dinette and rear bed in the Escapade 28G, but that was almost 29 feet long.
Model 25DS in Jayco's Greyhawk line.
Model 2450S in Forest River's Sunseeker line. Sofa, dinette and bed in the 2900, which was 30 1/2 feet long.
Models 23A and 24T in Thor's Fourwinds, Chateau Sport and Dutchmen Express lines. The 24T was 26 feet long in the Ford, a bit over that as a Chevy. Sofa, dinette and bed in the 28A, just under 30 feet long.
Model 24V in Winnebago's Minnie and Itasca Spirit lines. Sofa, dinette and bed appeared in the 29B and 29K models, which were 29 1/2 feet long. These floorplans migrated to the Outlook line in 2006, then to the entry-level Access line in 2008. The 26A model in all of these lines offered a little more room, adding a chair (not a sofa) to the living area, but was a bit over 27 feet long on the Ford chassis, 28 feet on the Chevy.
Winnebago put a dinette and rear bed in the Mercedes-platform View and Itasca Navion 23J models, about 24 feet long. This evolved to model 24J in later View/Navion models. Look also at the Melbourne models from Jayco, Chateau and FourWinds Sprinter models from Thor.
There are more options if you don't really need the cab-over bunk, which opens up offerings from Phoenix Cruiser and some newer, smaller motorhomes. Winnebago puts a rear bed in dinette in the Promaster-platform Trend 23L; this offers a studio loft bed rather than a cab-over. The Transit-platform Fuse 23T has a walk-around rear queen bed, dinette and bench seat up front, but no loft or over-cab bed. Look also at Thor's Siesta Sprinter, Citation Sprinter, Synergy lines, and Gemini and Compass RUVs on the Transit platform.
Not needing cab over also opens up small Class A lines like the Mercedes-platform Winnebago Via, rear corner bed and street-side dinette in model 25P, just under 26 feet long.
Smaller than the tent floor, so water does not collect on footprint/tarp/plastic sheet to collect between footprint and floor.
Footprint vs tarp? The term "footprint" is a sales tool, it might very well be a tarp (another term now badly misused) or something less.
My 45 year old tent has a waterproof plasticized floor, so I've never put anything under it that has been sold as a footprint, but when setting up on frozen ground, I have a space blanket I've cut to fit, which seems to help a little bit on heat flow.
Many modern tents have fabric floors of lighter or more fragile materials, so something on the ground (canvas, tarp, plastic, carpet) can help, but whatever you choose, you want the tent floor to cover it.
My first two tents didn't have floors, I carried flooring material as needed, usually canvas tarps, sized to fit inside the tent.
Staking the footprint? I don't think so, under the tent it shouldn't move.