Blowouts don't occur often as a result of slight overinflation. Actually, blowouts are quite rare, the more usual tire failure in the belted radial era has been tread separation from overheating, whether caused by excessive load or under inflation (two ways to see the same thing) or excessive speed on a damaged tire. After tread separation, the tire body will quickly get damaged enough to deflate, but even then it is not often a blowout, which is an explosive event.
I've seen them used in commercial RV parks, and in many large seasonal parks with lots of permanent residents, golf carts are the culture.
They are generally not used in public campgrounds, which often have a "licensed vehicles only" policy for use of the roads, as reaction to problems with irresponsible use of ATVs.
Whether you use a cart enough to make it worthwhile is thus going to depend on where you go, and cost relative to your resources. After all, many folks have some quite expensive things, like vacation homes (and for some of us, RVs) that get very little use, but are worthwhile when we do use them.
Depending on how much "older" and whether Ford, Chevy, Workhorse, VW, Daimler or Dodge, and which level in the chassis series, it could be as little as 2500 pounds or something in excess of 5000 pounds, for the chassis itself. A motorhome manufacturer might further limit towing capacity based on frame extensions and towing equipment installed.
New series E-450 have GCWR of 22,000 pounds with 6.8 V-10, implying tow capacity of 7500 when loaded to 14,500 GVWR. Ford says 10,000 max tow, but that would have to be a relatively light MH on the chassis. E-450 with 5.4 V-8 is GCWR 14,000, but it is unlikely that you will find that combo in a C motorhome. A couple manufacturers used the bare chassis E-450 with 5.4 to build "RUV" Class A's for a while, but I think most went on to use the V-10 or moved to other platforms.
Older E-450 had GCWR of 20,000 pounds implying tow capacity of almost 6000 when loaded to GVWR of 14,050. Again, Ford rated the chassis at 10,000 max tow, applicable for vehicles lighter than a typical motorhome (chassis itself is around 5000 pounds, depending on equipment package).
On earlier E-450 some RV manufacturers installed 3500 pound hitch limiting tow to 3500. Others installed 5000 pound hitch, rating to 5000 flat tow, 3500 load carrying with typical max 350 tongue weight, this because the frame may be extended 6-10 feet, changing leverage at the hitch.
E-350 cutaway chassis is currently 18,000 GCWR with the 6.8 V-10, 13,000 GCWR with the 5.4 V-8. It has been 17,700 GCWR with the V-10 in the past, before brake and suspension upgrades somewhere around 2008 model year.
It was once conventional for the Express 3500 cutaway to be rated GCWR ~ GVWR + 3500, so usually about 16,000 pounds when used at maximum GVWR of the era, 12,300 pounds. Workhorse upgraded from this to get GVWR 14,050 and GCWR 18,000 but still labeled it 3500. When GM came back into the market they produced an Express 4500 matching E-450 capacities. But that's recent, so if an older Express 3500, towing capacity is usually 3500, equipment installed to be consistent with Chevy's limit at full weight.
Older G-30 or Dodge B-300, expect no more than 3500 pounds, and that's going to also depend on which engine is installed: 350 vs 454 on older Chevys, 318 vs 360 vs 440 for Dodge B-series.
Other platforms, I think the VW T4 used by Winnebago was limited to 1500 pound tow, Sprinters are going to be around 3500-4000 at the most, might be substantially less depending on model year and engine used.
Plan for a 3500 pound flat tow, and you'll be OK for most.
GVWR and axle and tire ratings will be in the DOT mandated label in the door jamb. DOT does not put GCWR on this label, it will be in the owners manual. RV manufacturers will a supplemental label with VIN and ratings for finished vehicle, which might or might not include GCWR. I had to go into my owner's manual from Winnebago to get finished vehicle tow ratings, which matched a label on the hitch receiver.
I don't. I can life with what little movement I feel. Compared to a similar size TT, a C motorhome is built on a much sturdier frame, and has much more mass compared to the mass of people moving around inside. 200-300 pound guy rolling around in the overhead bunk can make things move, probably still would if you put down scissor jackes at the corners or used leveling jacks to lift the frame off the wheels.
What fits, and still ventilates the condenser coils, preferably without forced air. Thus it might not be residential per se, rather a compressor-evaporator cycle refrigerator designed for mobile or marine use.
Really small compressor fridges, sold for dorm, motel, minibar use, often have about 1/2 the interior volume compared to similar package size absorption units. That's because the refrigeration unit has a minimum package size. Once you get up to 12-16 cu ft (if you have the space) the situation gets better, because the size of the compressor refrigeration unit doesn't grow much as capacity increases.
Most RV manufacturers are putting in Whirlpool or Samsung residential units at 16-18 cu ft, not a typical size for a C motorhome or small travel trailer. If you are trying to replace a 6-12 cu ft RV unit, expect a substantial reduction in interior volume, and you'll be shopping bar or dorm refrigerators, not residential models.
B+ usually has cabinets because thats's all the space there is up there. Most I've seen would be hard pressed to fit a sort, cot-width sleeping area in that space. If you want bunks up there, look for a C with bunk-size section over the cab.
If all you want is storage, you can get as much space as the OEM cabinets used, which for some models is a lot, others not so much.
My Ford E450 chassis does not have a factory one installed underneath behind rear axle. I would like to install one in that location. Are they available from Ford or another source?
The OEM chassis is too short for a mount, and Ford does not provide a spare in the RV options package for E-350/450. The RV manufacturers, if they provide a spare and under chassis mount, will put the mount in their extension of the OEM frame, unless they've decided to use that for something like wastewater tanks.
I carry one, have never used it, maintain the pressure for use on rear dually. It hangs on mount Winnebago provided under rear of motorhome. Not all manufacturers provide for a spare, salesmen can come up with a "liability" excuse for those who don't.
It is up to you how much space you think you need. I know people full timing in 18-foot van conversions and the 17-foot model of the Casita. For both cases, their full time lifestyle is mobile.
I've met a man full-timing and work camping in a pop-up, 12-foot box. His lifestyle was not so mobile, rather seasonal moves between work locations.
Personally I would be more comfortable at 24-28 feet, for separation of living or working areas from sleeping areas. But that's old habit, I have friends of my generation (WW2 children) getting into the small house movement or moving into tiny urban apartments.
However, most of the full timers, and even the snowbirders, I know are living with 300 to 400 sq ft of space, e.g. 38-45 feet of motorcoach or 38+ in a fiver. Some of the snowbirders make their moves with an additional vehicle hauling a 24-30 foot utility trailer full of toys, or a substantial boat.
The space has to be adequate to your chosen lifestyle, or your lifestyle adjusted to the space.
New Horizons custom builds fifth wheel RVs in a range of sizes. They could probably build whatever you would like to design. I don't think anything in your requirements really requires a garage and loading ramp, which is what makes a toy hauler a toy hauler, except you did specify a ramp. But I suspect New Horizons price list is way over your cost expectations.
I understand the toy hauler recommendations because they come in a range of prices and have an empty space in addition to the house facilities (usually up front).
You might also consider motorized if constantly moving. Winnebago and Forest River both have divisions that do custom builds for non-RV applications (mobile offices, command posts, bookmobiles, mobile stores, medical facilities, etc). Any mix of storage, office and living space is feasible, provided the coach is sized to fit the need. Again, this is not cheap.
$10,000 today in the new RV market will not buy a small travel trailer. I suspect for a toy hauler large enough for your list of what you want, you'll be closer to $20K before going to somebody for customization.
I consider the Honda Fit I've set up for towing to be a car worth owning. Not loaded with expensive electronic toys, initial price is low, making it a goot value. With manual transmission it as much fun to drive as my little BMW 1600-2 was half a century ago, with same weight and power, and none of the mechanical flaws that made the Beemer such a pain to own.
It is essentially a SUV, micro-size. If you want a taller version, there is the HRV, if they offer it with manual transmission.
You will find parks like that, mostly ownership or membership, in the upper part of the lower peninsula of Michigan. Spaces are sometimes open for rental when a site owner decides not to return to Michigan during the summer.
Here too, as in the mountain West, summer is peak season and demandi is high, traffic coming from midwest industrial cities. Upper LP is summer destination for the wealthy of Detroit and Chicago, tradition going back to late 19th century when they got up there by train and boat.
Mine has a 1/2" drain on the fresh water tank, with a ball valve. I've seen others with 3/8 or 1/4 inch drains, sometimes ball valves, sometimes a valve like I usually see on a coffee urn. Some brands have a fresh water "command center" with 3 or 4 valves, there will be a valve configuration to drain.
Lacking any tank drain valves, you might pump out through a low point drain.
After getting a tank filled with bleach solution, I always run water out through each tap to get bleach solution into each line, because if the tank needs to be sanitized the water lines likely also need it.
I do all this with the water heater bypassed, as I drain and flush that after every trip, in any case.
If the literature doesn't say vacuum bonded, then it is likely that one or more production facilities is using presses and faster setting adhesives. High volume plants tend to use presses because volume is enough to cover the greater capital investment. Using vacuum bags requires less investment but more labor, and longer production cycles because of need to use slower setting adhesives and the additional time to bag and unbag each panel.
AFAIK, my travels since Katrina, US-90 was not wiped out, what was there is there, and most of the areas have continued to develop, at least the parts I visit in Mississippi.
What is interesting depends on what interests you. IDK Louisiana because I like to come down through Mississippi and go east to Florida, avoiding LA entirely. I-10 to US-41 or I-75 when in a hurry, US-90 and US-98 when I am not.
Are you breeding? All the fuss with Zika is because this virus is associated with birth defects. For the rest of us, in these warmer areas, the mosquitos carry other things more directly hazardous like West Nile, equine encephalitis, bird flu and malaria. Biting flies carry even more interesting diseases in warm and temperate climates.
Media is all over Zika because for young people the scariest thing they can think of is deformed babies. They aren't ready to think about what can kill them (like influenza, 30,000 to 50,000 a year, without biting insects).
I lived 2 years in Myrtle Beach about 50 years ago. It didn't but could get below freezing. Most of November-February it was too cold for the heat pump and we had to run resistance heating as emergency heat. Weather was mostly gray, and when wet, just cold rain but sometimes freezing rain. If the roads iced up, everything stopped until the weather warmed up.
Most of my work took me inland 50-100 miles, where it was often below freezing. Overcoat or lined trenchcoat over coat and tie was adequate for trips from car to a building. More time outdoors, I wore my Michigan winter gear.
My duties took me into three counties in N.C. They weren't much different from the six I worked in NE S.C., coastal and coastal plain.
N.C. has a lot more variation, actual coast, coastal plain, piedmont, Appalachian mountains have quite different climates. The mountains can get serious winter weather, though the worst of that is on the Tennessee side.
I'm from Michigan, would consider snowbirding there sticks and bricks (because I still like at least a little winter weather) but not in a RV which might be marginally insulated for the cold spells. If I didn't want to deal with winter weather, I'd be somewhere south of Savannah, and to stay above freezing most of the time, Fort Myers or beyond.
My daughter lived a couple years at Fayetteville, on the N.C. coastal plain, and it could get really cold. But she could drive to Wilmington, where temperatures were moderated by an ocean too big to freeze.
This is the tough part, because it depends on personal preferences.
I can do 2-3 days at Mackinac Island before I run out of things I want to do. I can go back a few years later and do it all again. Other people have seen all they want to see in a day, yet others go to the island for a week, two weeks, or the whole summer. If I'm going someplace for the whole summer, I want a little more to do, so maybe Chicago, NYC, Beijing, the whole of England, but not a little resort island.
The Door Peninsula has more to work with, if what you want to do is explore nature's wonders or what cultural features have been created for summer visitors. I have no direct experience with the Door Peninsula, only comparable environments like the Traverse City area of the NW Lower Peninsula of Michigan, Baraboo area of Wisconsin, Driftless area of SW Wisconsin, and the Marquette area of the Michigan Upper Peninsula. Any of these I can keep myself busy exploring. I'm a geologist, I explore the rocks and history of economic uses. I have botanist friends who study the plants, biologists looking for bugs and reptiles.
With what interests me, I could likely survive the whole summer in the NW corner of the Lower Peninsula (tens of thousands of families have been doing it for more than a century) but I'd be lost after a week on Mackinac Island unless I connected with some really interesting people.
But not eveyone has such interests. I have a sister who is happy sitting quietly for a week on a beach, before ready to go back home. Another sister needs amusement parks and theme parks, or someplace whete she can zipline a couple miles of treetops, or jump out of a perfectly running airplane for the thrill of falling a mile before opening her parachute.
So what turns you on. History? Exploring? Studying nature? Roller coasters? Theme parks? Chilling on the beach with a not very good but easy to read best seller? Or jumping out of airplanes?
I've not been in cabins at Natioal Parks except for the shelters on hiking trails, where you carry in everything you need.
Oklahima State Parks have varied cabin facilities at different prices. 50 parks have some type of cabin offering, at least rustic. For those, a sleeping platform where you roll out your bedding, a cold water sink and counter, a lighting and a couple of utility outlets. Maybe climate control, maybe not, except for windows that open. They work up from there, depending on park, a varous prices, but none that I know of provide kitchen and food service utensils. I've had that sort cabin of facility at commercial family resorts, but not at public parks.
I've had more experience with group camping facilities, which usually have two or more bunkrooms with military type cots, equpped kitchens, restrooms for one or two genders, but not always showers.
If planning to travel using park cabins or shelters, without knowing what is at each stop, I would be equipped for independent tent camping, just not carrying the tent.