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 > Your search for posts made by 'tatest' found 549 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Substitue for Calgon for GEO method for tanks

Calgon is a brand now used by several different companies for a wide range of products. The original powdered water softener with that brand name was sodium hexametaphosphate. This is not the current formula for the Calgon-branded water softener, since the EPA banned the use of phosphates in many consumer products. But you can still buy sodium hexametaphosphate as an industrial product. Calgon dishwasher detergent is not the same thing as Calgon water softener, nor is the liquid the same as the powder. I use the combination of Borax and (non-phosphate) powdered detergent for my GEO method. Washing soda (disodium carbonate) might work just as well. The function of Calgon water softener products is to bind calcium ions in hard water, so they don't interfere with the action of soap (pretty much no longer used in the laundry) or certain types of detergents. Borax and washing soda have the same function. Most detergent formulas already include one or more "softening" agents. So not finding Calgon will not keep you from successfully using the GEO method, particularly if you are not dealing with "hard" water; the detergent is often enough. In bulk, or even in larger consumer packages, borax is a lot cheaper than the Calgon softeners and does double duty as an insect control, particularly ants.
tatest 06/22/17 12:20pm Travel Trailers
RE: tt moves

This is normal. Even with a lot more supports, a heavy walker can still make the floor bounce, and that will feel like trailer movement. TTs, for mobility, get lightweight construction. This happens in the housing industry too. My brother bought a house built in the '80s in which the floor bounced. The floor was panels over widely spaced trusses, each section was like a drumhead. Next house he went back to the '50s for heavier construction, 12 inch joists on 16 inch centers, hardwood subfloor. No bounce.
tatest 06/22/17 11:56am Travel Trailers
RE: When on House batteries, some outlets don't work

One more question..well two...Is there a reasonable way to "switch" circuits so I could choose which circuit was used? Or can one outlet be added to the existing circuit? That depends on the location of the inverter. If near the batteries and AC panel, some rewiring may be reasonable. It the inverter is near the outlet, fed by a long 12 volt run (common on small entertainment inverters) rewiring can be a lot more difficult. Once you move away from the electrical panel, much of the wiring would be run in channels cut in the foam core of your wall panels, not very accessible after the panels are skinned. Sometimes wiring runs go through cabinets, and can be easier to get to.
tatest 06/22/17 11:30am Class C Motorhomes
RE: When on House batteries, some outlets don't work

At the level of a Tioga, you do not have a whole house inverter. Most likely the inverter powers a single circuit for entertainment items that may be used going down the road. Note that the circuit on the inverter will always use the inverter, even when plugged in. Whole-house inverter/chargers (often 2000 to 4000 watts) and high amperage alternators to power them, with high capacity battery packs to back them up, appear on diesel pushers and sometimes large high-end gas motorhomes, rather than on entry-level C's. There are a few models of small motorhomes built as all-electric (Roadtrek's ETrek for example) but for a Tioga to have a whole house system someone would have had to install it aftermarket. If you are considering a use that needs whole house power from batteries, this will involve replacing the existing AC/DC converter with a high output inverter-charger, rewiring the AC panel to feed most circuits from the inverter (maybe everything except air conditioning), and finding a place to put at least four large golf-cart batteries. You might also check whether your chassis has an option for a second alternator, or a higher output full duty cycle alternator; an option like this is usually available for the emergency vehicle package on van cutaway chassis, but does not come as part of the RV package used for C motorhomes. Whatever you do to beef up the 12 volt side, it is still likely that you will need to be plugged in, or running your generator, to use air conditioning. There is just not enough power available from a 12 volt system readily carried on a C to run A/C; the ETrek does it by using an eletric-vehicle size battery pack and falling back on an engine-powered auto-start generator.
tatest 06/22/17 10:18am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Truck Camper, Class B or C for this?

Most B's are not going to have the storage you require, unless custom built as part RV, part cargo hauler. Typical B configurations lean toward people haulers with small kitchen and bath (like Winnebago Era 70X or Road Trek Versatile and Adventurous) or filling the whole thing with as much furnishings as possible (like Era 70M and 70A, or Winnebago's Travato and Paseo lines). Sportsmobile does custom building for hobby and professional needs, and to get the space you would likely start with a 24-foot van. All classes of RVs use pretty much the same RV components. The B advantage is an all-steel shell vs a built-up box, but to make the van into a house or a camper, they start cutting holes in it, and it is these openings that cause more trouble than anything else with RVs. Because of where things like waste tanks, house batteries, generators have to be put, B's often make it harder to work on the added RV stuff, but maintenance might also be no picnic on a poorly designed C. A C in the same length as a B is going to have more room inside (because it is built wider) and should have more storage underneath. Many C's have extended frames and long overhangs (mine is almost 10 past end of frame) and this will have an impact on trailer towing. E.G. C's on Ford's E-450 chassis may high capacity for flat towing, but after the RV is finished with a rear extension, they no longer have much capacity for carrying weight on the hitch. For towing a trailer with a C, I'd suggest something built on the DRW Sprinter platform, as Daimler does not allow extending their frames, thus the finished RV can tow what Daimler says the chassis can tow. B's are quite variable in what they can tow. Some of the vans used to build them might tow as much as 10,000 pounds when empty, but a van filled with a house is not empty. Others are more limited to start with, but may retain their full towing capacity when the van is fully loaded. DRW Sprinter as typically used for large B motorhomes will tow at least 4000 pounds when fully loaded. Something build on the RAM ProMaster might be limited to not much more than 2000 pounds when fully loaded. A Transit-based B what it can tow will depend on which of three engines was used. SRW vs DRW, most C's are duallys for the carrying capacity, some small ones are not (e.g. some builds on the RAM ProMaster platform). The largest and most capable B's are built on extended-length (22-24 foot) one-ton DRW Sprinter or Transit vans, while smaller B models are single rear wheel, and some are as short as 19 feet. Driving on dual rear wheels with one tire flat will overload and damage or destroy the other tire, particularly with a motorhome, which is heavily loaded all the time and needs all four wheels to carry rear axle load.
tatest 06/21/17 05:24pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Sugestions for Entry Level Cheap Dinghy

Just how old? Top candidate, if you need an automatic, would be Saturn S series, 1990-2000. Even most later Saturns work because they were on GM platforms using the 4T40E or 4T45E transmissions. Which brings up the second big group: GM compact and mid-size sedans using the 4T40E/4T45E tranmissions, 1995 to 2010. Models include compact Cavalier, Cobalt, HHR, Sunfire, Alero and mid-size Malibu, Cutlass, Grand-Am, G6, and 2000-2004 Saturn L, 2005-2007 Saturn Ion, and certain models of Saturn Vue. Also towable will be GM cars using 4T60E/4T65E, but these are not small, e.g. Equinox, Traverse, Impala-size cars.
tatest 06/21/17 04:02pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Rating guide

RV Reviews but it is not specific to Class C's and the rating approach is somewhat arbitrary. Then again, so is CR.
tatest 06/21/17 01:43pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Transporting kayak on roof of Class C

Winnebago roof is Filon sheet covering a block of foam. I'm not sure how a rack system might be secured to that material. Factory installed fixtures needing support get a mounting plate before roof is laminated together. Looking at the roof of my Itasca, with four vent covers, three antennae, shower skylight, refrigerator vent, air conditioner and two waste-tank vents, I don't see a big enough free space for a kayak, unless it was less than eight feet and could be carried sideways to direction of travel. But it I were to carry it that way, the aluminum frame running along the sides of roof (exposed part looks like a gutter) becomes a candidate for mounting a rack across the full width. I've used gutter-mount racks successfully before, to carry a 14-foot boat, but never had one more than 80 inches across; RV would need one 100-102 inches. Most on the market today are 48-60 inches. Most recent rack I bought was a suction cup mount with straps tying to the gutters. I last used that on a 1992 vintage pickup, but it could work on my van, which has gutters.
tatest 06/21/17 01:37pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Thor RUV Question

I think you will find that they are essentially the same, except for colors and style of trim. Thor does this duplication a lot, used to triplicate their C model lines, still duplicates more with C's than with A's. Winnebago once duplicated almost all their model lines across Itasca and Winnebago brands. We ended up with an Itasca Spirit instead of the equivalent model in the Winnebago Minnie line because my wife preferred the interior colors in the Spirit. A factor like this might determine your choice, or maybe a dealer selling the Axis will offer a better deal than one selling the Vegas (or vice-versa). For a long time Monaco Corp did the same with C's and A gassers, offering nearly identical models across several model lines in Holiday Rambler and Monaco brands, all built on the same lines at the Holiday Rambler plant.
tatest 06/20/17 07:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fleetwood Terra

When Fleetwood RV restarted under new ownership, the Flair was repositioned as the most basic model line, replacing the Terra/Fiesta twins. I think if you look at a new Flair, you'll see trim and furnishings similar to your Terra. All new Flairs have at least one slideout, and paint; those are a step up from the most basic Terra offerings.
tatest 06/20/17 07:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Kansas City to Goshen, In.

I regularly take I-35 out of KC, across US-36 to Hannibal, I-72 to Springfield, I-57 to US-24. Once on 24, it depends on my destination. For Western Michigan I'd usually go up toward Michigan City, using either I-94 or the Indiana Toll Road, depending on what I've learned about construction projects, to an artery going to my destination (whether Kalamazoo, Battle Creek, Lansing, etc). For Elkhart area, I'll take US-24 to US-31, then across US-20 to Elkhart, Shipshewana, Middlebury or LaGrange, or across US-6 to Nappanee or Wakarusa; US-6 gets you closest to Goshen, I suggest SR-19 north out of Nappanee then SR-119 into Goshen. SR-25 north from Logansport to US-31 at Rochester shaves off a few miles, but I don't usually take the RV through the center of Logansport, and even with just the car getting bogged down in traffic can cost more time than it takes to get on the US-24 bypass and drive the extra miles. The only real bottlenecks are Monticello (during tourist season and on market days) and Logansport (should you not bypass it). Watseka has built up considerably in the past 15 years, but I am usually through it in about 12 minutes, but wrong time on the wrong day can make that as much as 20 minutes.
tatest 06/17/17 10:16pm Roads and Routes
RE: Adding insulation WITHOUT tearing up the rig??

On your Jayfeather all flat walls are already full of insulation, except where channels might be cut for wiring and plumbing runs. The wall is made of a foam insulating board with a light wood skin glued to both sides, and a layer of composite sheeting on the outside. So anything you add to walls will have to be inside the trailer or outside the trailer. I'm not sure of your roof construction, there may be possibilities there if it has been built up hollow. I know that my roof is a built like the walls, a slab of foam insulation with inner and outer skins. One of your problems is that your TT is way too large for a single 13,500 BTU air conditioner, in sunny country. Another is that it is a lightweight, so it has been built with thinner walls than traditionally used for RVs built with foam core wall panels. Two inches is typical, lightweights might have walls an inch and a half to an inch and an eighth. A lot more heat goes through the windows than through the walls, and most of the heat comes from solar radiation rather that air temperature differences. Thus reflective insulation is the best place to start, and the windows the first candidates for coverage. Another really good idea is to park in the shade where possible. I learned how much the sun heats my RV (2 inch walls, 3-6 inch roof, 2 inch floor insulation) when I parked it closed up in the sun on a 70 degree day. It took only 3 hours for the inside temperature to exceed 99F, highest reading on my thermostat. Opening windows and using the vent fan to pull in outside air cooled it down to about 5 F above ambient.
tatest 06/17/17 09:40pm Travel Trailers
RE: New (to me) RV--lightweight toad recommendations

If automatic is necessary, older Honda Fit (pre-CVT) is towable and about 2600 pounds. Chevy Cobalt and other GM compacts in that family (like HHR) are towable and right around 3000 pounds, as were the Cavalier and Sunbird that preceded the Cobalt. I don't know about the next generation (e.g. Cruze) which got all new drivetrains. If you'll drive standard transmission, you have a wide range of front-wheel-drive subcompacts and compacts to choose from. Subcompacts ranging from 2500 to 2800 pounds, compacts just under 3000 to about 3800, with SUV crossover variations running somewhat heavier than sedans and low profile hatchbacks. I'm towing a Fit, but mine is manual transmission, just a personal preference.
tatest 06/14/17 02:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Gas or diesel class c

Diesel C today means either something about 25 foot long on Sprinter, RAM Promaster, or Ford Transit, or else a Super C on something like F-550, Business Class Freightliner, or medium duty International. Or if looking used, on Kodiaks, but many of those had the 8.1 Vortec engine rather than the Duramax, probably because of the chassis price difference. Most of the Super C's will be around 34-36 feet. The older C's built on E-series with diesels tended to be small models, because only the E-350 cutaway got the Powerstroke engine option, had GVWR almost 3000 pounds less than E-450, and a lot less payload than a gas E-350 because of the extra engine weight. BornFree sold a few on diesel E-350, Phoenix Cruiser offered as an option, and Winnebago had the diesel option for a couple of smaller floorplans in the late 1990s up to the discontinuation of the 6.0 Powerstroke.
tatest 06/07/17 08:38pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Windows 10 network error messages

When it happens to me it is usually because the cable company is having network problems. Not real obvious because the cable modem looks OK, I'm connected to them but they're not connected to their next tier provider, or their nameserver is down. But then the message is "Not connected to the Internet." I seldom see "not connected to a network" because I always have an intranet running my own router downstream from the modem. One tool I use for troubleshooting is my wifi tablet. If it is seeing the network and the Internet, then I can associate the problem with the PC. It sometimes fails to reconnect when waking up from a sleep mode, and I suspect the OS more than the hardware because a re-boot usually fixes it.
tatest 06/07/17 08:10pm Technology Corner
RE: We know what we want - but what models fit our needs?

Most of the C's I've seen over the years with no dinette, and opposing seating (other than Lazy Daze) have been B+ designs (some BT Cruisers, Coachhouse models around 2000-2005, Phoenix Cruiser, maybe some older Aspect/Cambria models or Jayco Melbourne before it was moved to the smaller Sprinter platform). These did not have overhead beds, and under 28 feet were usually a couch and one chair, to leave room for an entrance door. I would be shopping for a larger Lazy Daze.
tatest 06/07/17 02:42pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Generator replacement

As installed in my Winnebago, the factory selected Onan 4000 Microlite also will not fit through the access door in the side of the RV. The generator is removed and replaced through the bottom (mounted on rails, the compartment has no floor). The only thing that has to regularly fit through the access opening is the removable part of the generator cover.
tatest 06/07/17 02:23pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Jayco Melbourne, Steering is loose?

First, it is a truck chassis with recirculating ball steering and a high steering ratio, so it will have a little more play and more movement for a given effect when compared to the tight rack and pinion systems used on almost all front wheel drive cars and small to mid-size SUVs today. Day to day I am switching between a Honda Fit and an E-350 van, and there are definitely some driving adjustments to be made. But I am so used to the E-350 that it is the Fit that doesn't feel quite right, steering feels twitchy with no real center and lacking proportional feedback and return to center (but that latter part is because of the programming of the electric power steering). But as J-D says, proper tire inflation is critical on the front of this van chassis (and many other trucks in this weight class). The tires are chosen to support heavy loads on the rear, and the same tires are used on the front so they are interchangable. If you inflate to maximum pressure on the sidewall, rather than for actual load on the tire, you lose a lot of the contact patch and grip on the road. You also lose part of the turning power generated by tire flex. Inflation pressure the first thing I check when someone says their van or class C is wandering, but it is more of a feeling of being loose on the road than it is excessive play in the steering wheel. Play in the steering is best measured when standing still. Any additional wheel movement observed when driving would be from alignment or tire contact issues, rather than slack in steering mechanism.
tatest 06/07/17 02:16pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: too toad or not to toad that is the question

I don't tow when touring and sightseeing, do tow when taking the RV out to the lake to leave it there a week or two. Current tow is a manual transmission Honda Fit, previous was a manual transmission Ranger pickup.
tatest 06/05/17 05:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: The 1969 Draft Lottery, where were you & number?

1969 I was already in and filling a command slot for a major while I was temporary grade 1st lieutenant, still 2nd lieutenant permanent grade. When I finished university two years earlier, I wasn't concerned about my draft number, there was a duty to be fulfilled.
tatest 05/30/17 01:00am Around the Campfire
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