4KW. It can run with a coffee pot, toaster, small RV microwave assuming the A/C is running and not trying to start. It might not run a blow dryer and curling iron at the same time as the A/C is running, that combo can be a heavier load than RV microwave (and coffee maker loads depend on what point in the brewing cycle).
With 4KW of genset, the 30 amp main for the whole RV is likely to pop before you overload the generator. Your house limit is usually 3.6 KW.
When my women start running their morning grooming and breakfast appliances it is usually a tossup whether the 30 amp breaker in the RV or the 30 amp breaker at the power post is the first to go. They blow breakers in my house too, usually too much on a branch circuit, as in trying to blow dry under the heat lamps.
For the A/C alone, Coleman sets 30 amp service, 4KW genset, as minimum for their 15K BTU/hour A/Cs and heat pumps. Brief starting loads go 2-4 times that capacity, and only the larger gensets have enough spare rotational energy to handle the overload.
Route 66 RV in Claremore, OK has TT rentals. AAARV in Oklahoma City has TT rentals. H&K in Columbus, Kansas has RV rentals. Scotty's in Tulsa had rentals, but he retired from the business a couple years ago. There was a dealer in SE Michigan (Ypsilanti, I think) that had rentals about 10-12 years ago, but I long ago deleted my link to that one. I has found another one in southern Mississippi.
Point is, TT rentals are most likely to be dealers, often small dealers selling only towables, located in places where people go camping. Usually they are doing rentals to get customers interested enough to do some buying. Big national or regional RV rental companies are mostly only renting motorized RVs, it is an easier business to manage and make profitable, and there is much more demand for hop in and drive than there is for learning how to deal with a trailer.
I think you might find listings of rental dealers and rental operators at gorving.com. That's where I found some when I was looking several years ago.
Daly RV in Goldsboro
Howard RV in Wilmington
Wilmington RV in Wilmington
I really appreciate all the great information and your time. One is a 2016 FR Forster 3011DS with 32,600 miles on it. The second is a 2011 HR Alumalite 31SFD with 12,500 miles. They are asking $79,700 for each.....
I think both of those prices are way too high. But I haven't been shopping since 2011, so maybe there has been some drastic drop in the value of the dollar that we've not been told about, since official measures claim almost zero inflation since 2008 (my social security inflation adjustment for the whole period has been less than a third of a percentage point).
You have a chassis VIN and a final vehicle VIN. The model year code for the final vehicle VIN will be the model year of the finished vehicle.
Chassis model years and VINs tend to change late autumn of the previous calendar year. Thus 2016 model years might begin production around October 2015.
RV model years tend to change early in the previous calendar year. 2016 model years, and 2016 VINs might show as early as January 2015.
For motorized RVs, it is likely that most of the production for a RV model year will be on a chassis of the previous model year. Almost all of the production of a RV model year, motorized or not, will be accomplished in the previous calendar year, on chassis with VIN for the previous model year. That is just the way it is.
You are fortunate if you managed to get your motorized RV titled for the finished vehicle model year, rather than the chassis model year.
No treatment needed for the material, it is what is the side walls for most RVs. You are looking at 10s of years, maybe 100s of years, before it weathers through, in the worst possible UV exposure conditions.
Wash the roof if the appearance bothers you, otherwise driving through rain cleans it.
What you need to take care of are the roof seams (sides and ends) and caulking for all the openings cut through the roof material. Edge seam maintenance needs care in particular, because if an edge lifts when traveling at high speed, the material is strong enough that the whole roof panel can lift, while roofing materials of lesser strength might just tear away locally.
Small wastebasket goes under the sink, lined with plastic grocery bag. Anything that can be recycled goes into another plastic bag hanging from a peg or door handle. Trash gets carried to the dumpster daily, or more often, in campgrounds or RV parks.
What people do varies a lot. I know three cases of Florida - Michigan snowbirding.
My late brother would go down to Florida after Labor Day and come back to Michigan at the beginning of June. He would fly back to Michigan for Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays with family (usually hosted at his Michigan house, which was kept up in his absence by niece and nephew). His wintering place was in Citrus County, which is less crowded than South Florida but still warm enough if you are used to Michigan weather.
One cousin goes down (from forest cottage in NE Lower Peninsula) at beginning of October, taking about a month to get to Fort Myers. Last year he started leaving his RV in Florida, built a small camper in the large utility trailer he uses to carry his motorcycles back and forth, for camping enroute. He returns to Michigan April-May, again spending 2-4 weeks enroute. His kids come down to Florida for holidays, if they are not doing something else (like cruises or tropical vacations).
Another cousin goes down (to Hernando County) after the beginning of the year, returns to Michigan (Detroit area) towards the end of March. My grandparents lived in Hernando County 1950 to 1980, found it adequately warm for a mostly outdoor life in the winter.
What space works is something each couple has to figure out for themselves. Two people will not each have their own space in 18-foot TT (if you mean overall length, not box size). At that size, separate sleeping and living areas are unlikely. As you get to 22-24 feet overall length, you will find sleeping space separate from living areas, and at the upper end, maybe separate dining and seating spaces. But you will both be in the same room, all the time.
No place in Florida is going to have winter daytime highs in the 60s guaranteed. I lived Central Florida two years, most of the winter I was in summer uniforms with a jacket. However January 72 when we went to Key West, highs dropped into the 40s as far south as the Keys. But generally it highs will be 50s to 70s most of January and February, once you are south of Tampa. March is warm. Winter is the gray season in Florida, but not as gray as Michigan winters.
If it is TPO, it is a step up from EPDM, which gets generally called "rubber." RV manufacturers generally use one of these two.
PVC roofing membranes have been around for almost 50 years, and while they will de-gas plasticizers, the materials have shown about 30 year durability in commercial use.
While TPO membranes don't have plasticizers, durability is really unknown. TPO RV fabrics usually come with 20 year warranties, but current formulations have been in use less than five years. TPO was introduced as an alternative to PVC, with supposed advantages of better weather resistance but long term benefits vs PVC have yet to be demonstrated.
The PVC is probably going to be 10 to 20 cents per square foot more expensive than TPO, depending on thickness and grade. There are at least four different grades of PVC roofing membrane and thicknesses range from 30 to 60 mils.
Get the installer to explain why the PVC is better than TPO or EDPM alternatives.
You have to check each unit, as generalizations don't work.
Many TT model lines, and some lower cost fivers, will have plumbing outside heated space. This is harder to check than it used to be because buyers want "enclosed underbelly" so even entry price models will have a sheet of fabric or plastic hiding everything under the floor.
Premium towable lines, particularly fivers built for the full-timer market, will plumbing in heated space, though that might be below the floor. Some lines actually have heated basements containing utilities, also serving to make for warmer floors. Carriage used to do this for their Carri-Lite and higher model lines, but not for lower priced model lines. At Northwood, heated basement space used to be one of the differences between the Arctic Fox and the lower-priced Nash lines.
Most of the RV production is in cold parts of the country, and the production season starts in winter. Depending on QC procedures, RVs sent out for delivery may be dry (never had water in them) or may have been winterized after testing the plumbing. I would expect that Airstream checks out plumbing systems wet at the factory, so winterization is necessary before the motorhome goes out the door.
When a dealer dewinterizes is going to depend on climate, sales season, and whether showrooms are indoors. Prep for delivery often doesn't happen until after RVs are sold, except for models brought into indoor showrooms, so even when it warms up stock sitting outside may still be winterized. Not many winter buyers in cold climates will take delivery during winter; prep and delivery will often be scheduled for Spring.
Whether or not prep charges are itemized will depend on dealer policy and factory policy (terms of the dealer's franchise). Some manufacturers include prep as a line item in the MSRP so a dealer for that brand should not be adding the cost to the invoice. Invoice add-ons are often negotiable.
If you are willing to look around for something used, Canadian manufacturer Bigfoot used to make a series of Class C models that were designed for four-season use. They have since cut back to making only truck campers and travel trailers.
Motorcoach converters will build for four-season use, they do this for many of professional travel coaches that move bands, stage crews, pop stars around and those that get used as dressing rooms for movie locations (although that market has been moving toward semi-trailers). Typical use of these travel coaches, however, is that they are never shut down while occupied, using the main engine or a large generator as source of power and heat. Not really RVs, and expensive (high six figures or low seven figures when new). Similar costs apply to custom RV conversions of motorcoaches.
Otherwise, look at high-end Class A motorhomes. I know Newell Coach builds for four-season use. The factory has a few 7-8 year old used coaches for sale at $800,000 to $900,000 (a new one will be in the neighborhood of $2,000,000).
2011 rambler 2016 forester
In that case, I can't choose because I haven't seen a Holiday Rambler of that era. Prior to Monaco Corp shutting down the H-R plant and moving production, the H-R, Monaco and Safari C's were special, built up with framed walls. From then until the Monaco bankruptcy, with H-R brands being built by R-Vision, they were assembled from laminated panels, nothing special and not particularly better than Forest River C's.
Whatever is being built with that brand by the re-emerged Monaco, I've not yet seen. They've reopened the Holiday Rambler plant, but that doesn't mean they've gone back to H-R construction methods. 2011 brochures don't discuss construction, the Alumalite line looks like laminated panel construction, but it is hard to tell from photos.
I guess it depends on where you are in the relationship. When we were first married and in youthful trim, two of us in a twin was nice and cosy, and going to a double we seldom used more than half the bed. About 30 years in, we expanded to queen to have a little more sleep space for larger bodies. When an overseas move put us into a king it was "are you trying to get away from me?" But my sister and her husband totaled over 500 pounds and a king was cozy.
B designs tend to offer "twin" beds that are really more cot size, or shared beds that are larger than queen but not quite king, at the rear of the RV. Anything foldout in other locations is going to be smaller.
Given the compromises of fitting a house into a van, you have to work out what is most important to you. Across all manufacturer's offerings, most of the different compromises are available. You can also go to someone like Sportsmobile and build custom, if you can sort out your own priorities.
There are "stick" devices usually controlled by an app on phone or tablet, sometimes browser on a computer. There are box devices usually controlled by a remote with inteface on the TV screen. Most Blu-Ray players will stream, box style.
If your TV is smart enough, it can do its own streaming. Different brands of smart tv do different services.
What device can depend on what services you want to use. I've been butting heads with Google won't do Amazon and Amazon won't do Google, and either might not do Apple. Roku boxes will do almost everything, but last I checked my sister still has an Apple TV and a Roku to get the services she wants.
I use a Chromecast (now probably Googlecast) because it will send to the TV anything I can stream through the Chrome browser on any platform, and will connect direct to some providers (e.g. Netflix) controlled by browser or app.
What services? Depends on what you want to watch. I'm into classic movies, indie films, foreign films, and some 70s-90s TV series, so I haven't cut the cable (want TCM and local news) and subscribe to Netflix. Most of what I want from Amazon is PPV, so not doing that yet.
If you have a lot of cable network stuff you want to stream, subscriptions can add up to more than paying a cable service. Broad streaming service packages like Uverse can cost as much as cable or satellite, so its not like everything you get on cable is streamed at no cost.
What "cut the cable" means for local channels depends on where you live. Probably 80-90% of the population lives within a well provided broadcast market and can get 3-5 networks and some independents with a good OTA antenna, but something like half the area of the U.S. is outside market area for OTA broadcasters now that we are digital. I'm in one of those dead spots so I keep cable.
I recommend the Tampa show, if the time and place are right for you. That's where I started after coming back into the U.S. and wanting a look at everything. Most of the major dealers in Florida and southern Georgia bring stock, supplemented by units direct from factory.
You won't see all models there (dealers don't always stock everything in the catalog) but you should find all mass produced brands, all model lines within the brands. Central Florida dealers will have yet more in stock back at the store location.
I consider warranties on RVs to be a non-issue over the long term. 1-2 years, generally covering only "defects in materials and workmanship" a warranty is not going to cover whether the thing was designed to last a long time using it the way you want to use it.
If considering long term service plans, often billed as "extended warranties" pay careful attention to the details, what is included, what is excluded, a procedures necessary to getting something paid.
You don't know how small is too small until you try living in it. The longer you live in it, the more likely it will be too small.
With what you are considering doing with a motorhome, you will likely still be towing, another vehicle for getting around at your destination. I get by not towing when continuously traveling, but when going to a destination, I need transportation. Sometimes fellow campers, sometimes family, sometimes a borrowed car, sometimes my wife followed me in her car. Since she died, more often now I am towing a car, bought for the purpose. I am on my second one.
If you are always going to the same warm place for no more than two months, there are options that can be less expensive and less confining than ownership of a small RV, motorized or towable. There are warm places, not in resort areas or urban centers, where rentals or even second home ownership can be less expensive than ownership of a motorhome comfortable long term for a family of four. One problem might be that some of these tend to be 55+ communities, another is that small rural communities in the South can be a major culture shock for folks from other parts of the country (which is why snowbirds tend to congregate in snowbird communities).
Higher pressure also means a smaller contact patch, tire to road, and less traction at upper limits. Tire pressures get fine tuned for racing, you don't drive your RV at those limits except maybe an energency maneuver.