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 > Your search for posts made by 'tatest' found 204 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Towing capacity question

Ford lists maximum towing capacity for passenger vans based on GCWR - weight of empty van with full fuel and driver, pretty much industry standard for rating passenger vehicles if there are no factors calling for a lower rating. So how much of that maximum is actually available will depend on how much load is in the van. My E-350 with the same engine (but 3.73 gearing) gets a 6000 pound tow rating because the van is just that much heavier. You can overstrain the engine as tuned for the van, it won't put out any more power than it is designed to put out full time. That's not necessarily the case for some performance tunes in special versions of pickups and some SUVs, but in the van the engine is limited to 100% duty cycle ratings. I don't know about the transmission, which rating of the E4OD got put into the E-150. I would definitely consider an accessory transmission cooler if you don't have the factory tow package with the heavier radiation and cooler from E-250/350 vans. I suggest locking out overdrive. With the ratios in my E-350 (60-series version of the transmission) and slightly lower final drive, that has me running 2800 RPM at 70 MPH, rather that the 2000-2050 I see in overdrive. For towing, I can live with the extra noise, it is essentially the same RPM my 6.8 V-10 cruises at in overdrive, and means about 40% more HP available as you get to full throttle at that speed.
tatest 02/17/18 03:02pm Beginning RVing
RE: I need Help!

In my 30 foot class C which has bed space for 6 people, 8 if some of them are small children who will bunk together, we've made six short trips (2-3 weeks) with four adults, three of those with two children, toddlers at first, the last with them children age 12 or so. Four adults for any length of time was crowded in the sense of people always being in each others' way, and regular daily activities had to be carefully scheduled. It was something we could do, having grown up with a family eight in a 800 sq ft 3 bedroom - 1 bath house, moving into one larger as we expanded to ten. So how well it works is going to depend on how well this collection of people can live together in crowded conditions. But there is another factor, that being the carrying capacity of a Class C. Every time we traveled with 3-4 adults plus children, the motorhome was overloaded by at least a few hundred pounds, mostly because of the amount of clothing and personal items each person considered necessary for 2-3 weeks survival. What you want to do would be better done in something closer to forty feet in length, on a chassis that can handle 22,000 to 26,000 pounds (or even better, 45 feet and 36,000 to 45,000 pounds, i.e. the size of a commercial motorcoach). Most of these larger RVs are built for full-time living for two people, but there are a few family oriented models out there.
tatest 02/17/18 02:34pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Shopping for something that can be livable in the winter

I would start by looking for a used Bigfoot in my price range. These are molded fiberglass shell, in three sizes (17.5, 21 and 25 foot) originally designed for year-round use. For permanent living alone, I would be inclined toward one of the 21-foot floor plans, although I know a few people who are quite satisfied with the space they have in 16-foot (and even 13-foot) models of other brand off these "eggshell" trailers. Originally well built, but used, I think would be a better starting point for adaptation to extreme cold than any new low-cost lightweight trailer on the market. Keystone's Zeppelin line was originally one of their ultralights, when I first saw them in 2004, but the product may have changed since. There is a wide range of wall, floor and ceiling thicknesses, products built for the ultralight market may have walls as thin as an inch, less than 3/4 inch of insulation, and effectively no insulation in the floor. Not a good starting point for modification to winter use.
tatest 02/06/18 10:47pm Travel Trailers
RE: Cheapest State for Class A License Plate

You paid $650 for what? Just the tag fee, or did that include a one-time sales or excise tax, or an annual property tax? Oklahoma licenses a privately owned Class A motorhome as a passenger vehicle, annual fee $96 each of the first four years sliding down to $26 after 16 years registered. But there is a 3.25% excise tax when first registered, $11 title fee, and the legislature just added a 1.25% sales tax on some classes of motor vehicle sales which probably include a motorhome. Licensed as a private passenger vehicle, your motorhome would be exempt from city/county personal property taxes in Oklahoma. Most other states are as complex in their tax structure, as it might apply to owning and operating a motorhome. If a big hunk of that $650 was a local personal property tax, tagging a vehicle in another state might not get you away from that, unless you keep the property out of that tax jurisdiction.
tatest 02/06/18 10:06pm Beginning RVing
RE: Class A Need Propane as we Travel Interstates

When traveling I most often used campgrounds as a source for LPG, topping off on the way in or on the way out. My wife liked KOAs, and most KOA locations sell LPG, it may be a franchise requirement. Flying J is another option, if you are in Flying J country. Other travel centers with major trucking business may retail LPG, as it is used by some refrigeration technologies. Most of these locations are retail, they will usually have a higher price than retail services at a major wholesaler, but not always. Some LPG wholesalers don't really want to keep staff on site to handle casual small sales, and price to discourage customers. I've found that when I was out about 1-2 weeks every month, I would need to top off once every 2-3 months, usually about half of my 18 gallon capacity. In winter, running the furnace overnight at 20F to 40F, about once a week. Casual summer camping since my wife died, once a year.
tatest 02/06/18 09:48pm Beginning RVing
RE: Remove front bumper/bolt tow bar to frame

All modern towbars attach to towing brackets or base plates that are bolted to the frame (or front "subframe" structures in unit body vehicles). The usual practice for Blue Ox and Demco equipment is a permanent baseplate of standard width, installed to put the towbar mounting points just below or just above the bumper. For Roadmaster equipment, the typical solution is a pair of towing brackets bolted to the frame, coming out under the bumper and sometimes the fascia, curving back up to an appropriate height. To these will be attached a baseplate cross-member that comes with the tow bar, although in some recent Roadmaster installations the attachment is a full baseplate, as used by Blue Ox, so the cross-member is a redundant control of towbar spacing. The Roadmaster solution for my Honda Fit was a full baseplate that bolted to the bumper mounts, permanently replacing the crushable bumper with something more solid; for this reason I chose Blue Ox, which mounted the baseplate to the bumper horns, well behind the bumper. All of this modern towbar stuff, however, is about convenience handling a vehicle that is towed regularly and hooked up and unhooked almost every day. An alternative solution for vehicles that actually have frames, rarely used for recreational towing, is to install a front hitch receiver, and use a receiver to receiver towbar. I've seen RV delivery drivers using this. You can get front hitch receivers for most pickups and body-on-frame vans. In the 1950's and 60's we used bumper to bumper towbars that clamped to bumper face bars, for moving around damaged vehicles when we didn't want to use our wrecker. But bumpers were different back then, we could tow most cars with the wrecker just hooking a bumper, or finding an opening in a frame rail. I've recently seen bumper to bumper towbars, and receiver to bumper towbars, in use for towing vehicles of appropriate vintage, i.e. they still had frames. For towing our (1930-1949 vintage) race cars to and from the stock car track, we bolted fabricated mounting brackets to the bumper horns, as the cars raced without bumpers. This seems to be more like what you are proposing. You can expect to remove the driveshaft on an Express of that vintage for any tow at highway speeds, or any tow beyond 20-50 miles, unless you can add on a lube pump for the automatic transmission. For what you want to do, a one-time move, I would rent a trailer large enough to carry the towed vehicle. This class of trailer, in the rental market, will usually have surge brakes. For flat towing, you would have no braking for the towed vehicle. Braking taken care of, I would be a little less concerned about tow ratings, which are largely about managing vehicle longevity and warranty costs, but there are also handling issues, particularly at highway speeds.
tatest 01/21/18 12:13am Dinghy Towing
RE: cars to flat tow for class C motor homes

When they say " I don't even know it's back there", don't believe it unless it's a bit diesel pusher. I certainly know my 2700 lb. Sonic is back there behind out 30 ft. Class C V-10 because the MH feels like a lively car when not towing. I would never tow some of the pick-ups and big SUV's I see towed. I know my tow is back there because as soon as I pull out of my street I am trying to accelerate to 30 mph going up an 8% grade. The other times I know it is there is when entering a 15-20 mph curve a little too fast, because the towed vehicle first pushes the rear of the RV to the outside of the curve, then pulls it back to the inside as the tow starts to come into the curve.
tatest 01/20/18 11:31pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Honda Fit

Is anyone towing a Fit, manual transmission with the Proximity key? I was wondering how that works. Does the Fit have a locking steering wheel? We currently have a MINI and the steering wheel doesn't lock, so we can tow it with the ignition key removed. Ed Headington My 2012 has proximity key (Base model). The steering wheel locks when the key is pulled out, so I turn the key to OFF position and leave it in the lock. I lock the car remotely with the second key. I've considered getting a third key, maybe valet, but that would mean juggling keys during my tow setup procedure, and the steering wheel is going to lock when I pull out the real key to put in the dummy.
tatest 01/20/18 11:25pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Smaller RV's?

There must be market for smaller motorhomes, 25 feet and under, because the major manufacturers have added more offerings in this size range, particularly B and C types on European-size vans and cab-chassis combinations (Transit, Sprinter, Ducato/Promaster). I don't know about younger people wanting them, but they've been popular with my (70+) age group, downsizing from large towables and medium-length A and C motorhomes, as they change the way they use there RV from second home more toward travel vehicle. My age group is also paying premium prices for restored VW-based camper vans, like those we used 40-50 years ago when it was all more like camping than house on wheels.
tatest 01/20/18 07:40pm General RVing Issues
RE: Need name for type of bed system

If it was a Safari Trek, I think Safari called it a Magic Bed. Other manufacturers offering similar drop-down beds have used different names. Winnebago likes PowerLift when powered, Studio Loft when manual pull down. HappiJac is an add-on system using the garage space in toy haulers.
tatest 01/20/18 07:19pm Beginning RVing
RE: Building a park from scratch, opinions welcomed!!!

Even with destination campgrounds filling up, people need a reason to stay at your location. I choose my locations on three priorities: 1) If I am going to stay for a while, the place has something for me to do. Lakes, fishing, small amusement parks have been draws. I.E., you are creating your own little Disney World. These places can be off the beaten path. 2) The place is convenient for an overnight stop and has the facilities a traveler needs. These include power, water, sewer hookups, LPG sales, showers, and a convenience store stocking also RV needs. A small restaurant, on premises or nearby, is a plus. Location is preferably within a few miles of the highway I'm traveling (not necessarily an Interstate, but most of RV traffic in the most densely populated parts of the country will be on Interstates). 3) The place happens to be on the highway I'm traveling, about the time I need to stop, and there is no place else within a couple of hours of additional travel. I am still looking for the basic amenities, but with no alternatives will do without the showers, restaurant, and store. I've parked behind gas stations or motels, offering hookups, on such occasions. You can build the greatest RV park in the country, with respect to services and amenities, but if it is not convenient to travelers, or has vacation destination drawing power, you will not have many visitors.
tatest 01/17/18 10:40pm General RVing Issues
RE: Goverment Shutdowns

Yes, I've been stopped. The last time the government shut down, the gates closed at all of the Army Corps of Engineers recreational access facilities in our area, representing roughly half the available campsites on the water. Folks in the campgrounds (not including volunteer hosts) were asked to leave. There was enough advance notice of service resumption that I was able to book a site on the day the campground reopened, but for the duration of the shutdown, the Corps campgrounds were not an option.
tatest 01/17/18 10:25pm General RVing Issues
RE: South fort Myers Fla. Campings

My cousin winters at Upriver (at Fort Myers), together with a group of other bikers who ride around from bar to bar and party a lot when they are together in the campground. The CG is pet friendly as well as biker friendly. I assume your "reasonable" is about cost. South Florida costs what it costs, there is not a lot of variation except that it tends to cost more being farther south or closer to the beach. But whatever the cost, if you like to party with old bikers, Upriver is worth looking into.
tatest 01/17/18 10:15pm Beginning RVing
RE: Time to buy and how pay

re. big bag of cash. aren't there issues with over 10,000 cash purchases? bumpy Cash transfers over $10,000 need to be documented to the IRS, to be legal in the U.S. It is just a matter of filling out the proper form. The form is not necessary for larger transactions through banks (including checks) because those are reported by the banks automatically, and actually cleared differently. It takes me much longer to clear a $60,000 check or a $300,000 check than it does for a $500 or $5000 transfer. Biggest hurdle will be title and registration, which usually must be issued to a person (or equivalent legal entity) resident in the state in which this is done. This has been almost universal as the states changed their practices to comply with Homeland Security requirements. There are law firms that specialize in handling this, although many visitors simply use a legal resident known to them as their proxy.
tatest 01/10/18 08:15am Beginning RVing
RE: Hello - new 85 20ft MW, from an auction, now what

400 miles? That is not enough to get it delivered from the factory in Iowa to hardly anywhere else in the U.S. I am suspecting at least 100,400 miles. Best sources of information, considering the mixed conflicting answers you get in this forum, would be a generic RV book, like "The RVer's Bible" which is now available as an e-book, and the "RV Repair and Maintenance Manual" from Abe Books. Equipment in RV's is generic, but what they were installing 30 years ago would have been significantly different in detail from equipment used today, or even 15-20 years ago, because of shift from manual and mechanical controls to electronic controls, particularly on LPG appliances. Winnebago has manuals online, but not necessarily that far back. Go to winnebagoind.com, at the top of the page is an clicky for "Resources" that will take you to older manuals and brochures. I don't find even a sales brochure for the MinnieWinnie in 1985, just images of a generic Winnebago brochure. There is a brochure for the Sundancer, the model line in the Itasca brand that was equivalent to MinnieWinnie in the Winnebago brand. There are images for the 1986 MinnieWinnie brochure, but some of the product information may not be correct, as running changes were common although the model offerings did not always change from year to year. For chassis information, you would be looking for G-series owner and repair manuals from General Motors. The G-series chassis is a different animal from the van, which was unibody. The G chassis was sold both bare and with the cab from the van. A manual for the van might fairly well cover engine offerings and cab equipment, but not chassis components and the heavier duty running gear. Documentation for most RVs is a package of user manuals and sometimes installation manuals for most of the house equipment installed. For recent years a lot of these were published in electronic form (PDFs typically) and can often be found online, but 1985 is early in the era of electronic publishing.
tatest 01/10/18 07:54am Class C Motorhomes
RE: How do you get used to such a small bed?

I already posted. Who dredged this one up out of the archives?
tatest 01/05/18 04:05am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: $1 difference between gas and diesel, WHY ??

Oil was never $110 a gallon. I don't remember it ever reaching $110 a barrel (42 gallons). Product prices go up and down with crude oil prices, but prices for which product go up and down with supply and demand. Diesel is the same fraction as fuel oil for heating and electrical power generation, demand changing seasonally for both markets, tending to be higher in winter. Gasoline demand peaks during summer months with vacation travel and heavy use of automobile air conditioning in stalled traffic. In fractional distillation, the proportion of different fractions (gasoline, jet fuel, kerosene, diesel and fuel oil) depends mostly on the crude oil input, but can be adjusted by more expensive secondary processes to produce more of one fraction than another. Thus diesel and fuel oil cost less relative to gasoline when gas is in higher demand and more costly methods are needed to produce it, but the balance shifts in the other direction when fuel oil is needed for heating and electric power generation, and gasoline is been sold out over overstocks. Add to this, the markets are global. Crude production is global, refining is global, consumption is global. Transportation costs are on the order of 1/10th of production and refining costs, so the seasonal cost of diesel fuel in California might be determined by the market for fuel oil in China.
tatest 01/05/18 03:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: enclosed Trailer problems with campgrounds

I have found this varies quite a bit. In many public campgrounds, and private RV parks where you choose a site to fit your motorhome, a trailer will end up in overflow parking within or outside the campground. This works the same for flat-towed vehicles, boat trailers, or accompanied separately driven vehicles and their tows. However, for big-rig sites in big-rig friendly RV parks, it should make no difference whether you trailer or flat-tow, so long as your rig fits on the 60-80 foot site.
tatest 01/05/18 03:30am Dinghy Towing
RE: Long Bed TV as a Daily Driver???

From an Oklahoma viewpoint, long-bed, even with a crew cab, is not a problem. Everyone's truck is at least 20 feet long. But in urban areas with more traffic density, tighter turning radii and smaller parking spaces, smaller is better. Everybody wants four door crew cab trucks these days. But a long-bed standard cab is usually shorter than the shortest of short-bed crew cabs. So you still have choices. Three to four cab lengths, at least two bed lengths, most combinations available from most manufacturers. If I had to use the truck to carry around 4-5 people most of the time, I would go for crew-cab with a 6-foot bed, and struggle with the quirks of a slider fifth wheel hitch. If carrying passengers only occasionally, I might consider an extended cab (Ford's Super Cab) with a longer bed. Just myself (my reality) it would be a "standard" cab with at least 7-foot bed, to stay away from the slider hitch problems, although I know folks who have knocked out a truck rear window backing a fiver with an eight foot bed and standard hitch. It is a matter of matching size to your needs, but for convenience, no larger than necessary. My current truck is a one-ton van, built as 12-passenger. I didn't need the 15 passenger capacity that adds another 20 inches of length, just under 18 feet is long enough. But seriously, I do not treat my trucks as daily drivers, although trucks fill that role for almost half the population here. I keep a subcompact hatchback as a daily driver, the truck is a special needs vehicle, more expensive to operate but what is needed when it is needed.
tatest 01/05/18 03:05am Tow Vehicles
RE: cars to flat tow for class C motor homes

I've towed a 2001 Ford Ranger pickup (about 3600 pounds) and a 2012 Honda Fit (2600 pounds). Smaller tows better. Both were manual transmission, an issue for some folks. For "less expensive" consider used vehicles (now called pre-owned). My son-in-law seldom pays more than $5000 for a vehicle, and has had a couple in the $500-1000 range (both would have been towable four-doors), which he considers disposable, drive it until it breaks. I would not buy any new car as a towed vehicle. I bought the Ranger 6 years old, for about 1/3 of original price. I drove the Fit three years before converting it to a towed vehicle.
tatest 01/05/18 02:51am Dinghy Towing
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