Many of the "low clearance" lists may include clearances well above the state minimums on highways and roads designated for use by commercial traffic. The folks who plan routes to move oversize loads may need to know what is less than 16 feet, or what is less than 24 feet. These are the primary buyers of this kind of data. They also need to know points of minimum width, low hanging wires, road and bridge weight limits.
What you usually want to know as a casual user of this information, the clearances below state minimums on city streets, local roads, and rural highways not designated for commercial traffic, is often not in these databases because the primary buyers don't use those roads. Thus your database probably doesn't include the railroad underpass in Wichita Falls with 7 foot clearance, or all those trees with limbs at 11 to 12 feet overhanging the street.
Pedestrians have had the right of way on marked crosswalks every place I've lived since I started driving 54 years ago. This is not some new idea.
Most small towns in Oklahoma and Kansas pull the speed limit down to 20 mph or less in the CBD where the hazards include crosswalks and on-street parking. The stupid traffic management mistake here was probably having too high a speed limit.
You will find high-volume discount RV dealers in the Elkhart area who specialize in out of state business, different dealers for different brands. Not all are in Indiana, some are in southwestern Michigan. Similarly in northern Iowa for the brands built there, eastern Kansas for the brands built in that area. These I know about, but I would expect a similar situation for RVs built in Texas, California, and the Pacific Northwest (which includes Canadian exports).
Finding these dealers? Ask the sales department at each particular RV manufacturer. Jayco has told me where to look for models not in the showroom, Winnebago makes similar recommendations for a Forest City dealership.
So the idea, in principle, is buying close to the factory (it is not always in Indiana) saves transportation costs, and buying from a high volume discount dealer who turns over inventory quickly often gets you a better discount.
it has a rubber roof. I wouldn't buy it myself. I visited the Dynamax factory once when they were making top of the line units. I guess they had to make a lesser unit to survive?
Dynamax didn't survive. They got bought by Forest River, thus the changes in direction to cover lower cost markets.
Holiday Rambler only if looking at the premium model lines (welded aluminum framed construction) built prior to the 2008 plant closing. After the Monaco acquisition they started putting the H-R brand on some laminated panel wall models (sold as lightweights) and after they shut down the H-R plant the brand became badge-engineered R-Vision models.
I don't think H-R is still produced. The reinvented post bankruptcy Monaco Corp eventually moved towables production for all brands from the R-Vision plant back to the Holiday Rambler plant, but did not use the traditional H-R building techniques. The plant was shut down again in 2014 and Monaco Corp left the towable RV business.
Okanagan, if they are still in business. I liked the way SunnyBrook TTs were built (aluminum frame) but they got purchased by Winnebago who is probably now making them the Winnebago way.
Don't discount Forest River's heavier models. Your Surveyor shows you what they can do when building to a slightly higher price point (without glitz).
Eighteen inch difference in wheelbase matters more for maneuverability than an eight inch difference in overall length. But it doesn't matter all that much, my 29-footer with 190-inch wheelbase also needs to make wide turns, has a huge turning circle, and I have to watch what the rear end is doing on really tight turns. Even my standard length E-350 van with 158-inch wheelbase needs to turn wide. The E-series does not have a particularly sharp steering cut.
If what you need in a C takes you past 30 feet of length, you should be looking at short (26-32 feet) A-gassers, which will give you more living space for a given length, better maneuverability (more steering cut on F-53 than E-450), and usually at least a ton more chassis capacity (might be two to four tons, depending on which F-53 GVWR the manufacturer chose to use). Unless you need the overhead bunk, you will find the same space in a A-gasser can be about four feet shorter than in a C.
My driveway RV parking area kept me under 30 feet, and in a C that is almost overloaded when empty, but if I could have used a 30-32 footer it would have been an A (Sightseer or Hurricane were our top choices in 2005) which at the time were actually less expensive than comparable size C motorhomes.
For similar trim level, fittings, floorplans and costs as the Sunseeker, look at Forest River's FR3 series. Nexus does not build shorter A gas motorhomes, but you might look at Winnebago's Vista/Sunstar, Jayco's Alante, Thor's Ace, all in the Sunseeker's entry market category.
Winnebago's ERA 70C has a rear bath somewhat larger than the one Forest River put in one model of the MB Cruiser. But this floorplan, which looks like it was designed for single full-time living, has no permanent bed, and the foldout sofa bed needs a slideout to be opened for you to unfold the sofa. Specs don't give the size of the refrigerator, but since it is a two-door model, probably at least 6 cu ft.
Sportsmobile, which custom-builds on Ford, Chevy, Sprinter and Ram Promaster vans of all sizes, can build a rear bath in some of the extended vans, but maybe not always a dry bath, because not all long vans have a long rear overhang. Design your own, it's fun. Then they'll tell you whether or not they can do it, and help you work out a compromise they can build.
You will not find much difference in campsite availability for 38 vs 40 feet.
35 feet is not the point where the number of usable sites stops dropping. This is more like 18-20 feet. We have campgrounds here where whole sections are reserved for tent campers or small trailers, camper vans or truck campers that can fit into an 18 to 20 parking space. The same campground has another loop where site lengths range 30 to 50 feet, so there some sites would be usable, others not.
In RV resorts, and RV parks that don't have camping, this length would not be an issue, pull through sites might typically be 60 feet or so to accommodate "big rigs" towing. Under 40 does not usually put you into the "big rig" category.
There are a lot of different kinds of folding beds. Are you asking about a bed with a two-piece folding mattress, a pull-out sofa bed, or a jack-knife sofa?
I've found the first only moderately comfortable, not because they fold but because it is a high density ("memory") foam construction, and my body prefers a mattress with a lot less give, like a firm innerspring with no topper or a pad on the floor. But a lot of other people prefer softer and put foam pads on top of even soft mattresses.
Pull-out sofa beds? I've slept on some really good ones and some really bad ones. It all depends on the quality of the mattress and the underlying spring structure. Mattress too soft, and I might feel the crossbars in the bed frame. Springs too giving, and the sag hurts my back.
Similarly for jack-knifes, there are good ones and bad ones. The one in my motorhome, the cushions are good enough, but proportions of seat and back are not equal and there is a crack to fall into. Bridging it with a foam topper makes it too soft for me. But I've slept on jack-knife folders on cruise ships that were just fine for me.
I was able to do some checks this morning on the battery boost relay. Before doing anything, the house battery read 12.7, and the engine read 13.2. This was after sitting in my driveway overnight without shore power.
Turned the key to accessory (just before start), pushed the boost switch several times just for grins, and heard the boost relay operating. Started the engine and measured voltage (no boost). The engine battery read 14.4, and the house read 13.7. So I assume the alternator is charging the house battery. Wonder why the voltages aren't the same?
There is enough resistance in the battery isolator and wiring to cause that much of a voltage drop. Both voltages may go down as the voltage regulator responds to the charge state of the engine battery.
Camping Life. It is one of the portals to this collection of forums. If the magazine is still published, there should be a link on this page to subscribe.
I used to buy Camping Life on the news stand at Hastings, from time to time, but we are losing Hastings. Finding it depends on how good your news stands are and what they choose to carry. Most discount magazine sellers don't carry that title, though my sister says the company she works for (markets under several names) can add almost any title a customer asks for; she runs customer service.
Never mind looking for it. I click on Customer Service, it says "Camping Life is no longer published." Sadly, it was one of the best magazines in the group, but the market was probably too small.
I thin what's being talked about is a conventional torque-converter plus planetary gear automatic with the option of shifting it manually, either with some type of floor shift lever or paddles on the steering wheel.
Two other things that might be referred to:
A computer-controlled gears-on-shafts manual transmission (which might involve more than one gearbox in tandem), with a single clutch between engine and transmission. Examples include the six-speed autoshift Fiat uses in the Ducato (we get it in the Ram Promaster diesel), and autoshift motorcoach and heavy truck transmissions. Most have automatic clutch actuation from a standstill.
Double clutch gears-on-shafts manual transmissions controlled by computer, usually with electronic selection among several shifting profiles (names like economy, city, sport, track, insane). Most have double gear trains as well as double clutches. These have worked their way over from racing technology, and can be as smooth as the smoothest automatics, or faster than all but the best drivers can consistently shift really good manual transmissions. Sometimes there is still a "manual" program option but the clutch pedal is gone. This is often the only transmission now offered for premium GT cars and high performance sport sedans, but the technology has also worked its way into economy cars, particularly where engines are too small and MPG standards too tight to allow for the inefficiencies of torque-converter automatics. The other alternative for automatics in economy cars now is the CVT.
Looks like Roadmaster's Stowmaster, maybe an earlier version of it. AFAIK Roadmaster is the only vendor that included that angle-iron crossbar as part of the towbar. This is what gets bolted (safety-cabled) to Roadmaster's separate towing brackets.
iPad is a tablet (that runs iOS, keyboards optional). Microsoft Surface is a tablet that runs Windows 10 (comes with keyboard). There are a number of other Windows tablets (or laptops with detachable keyboards), but most of the rest of the tablets on the market today are running Android OS (from Google).
iPads come in a couple different screen sizes (Mini), different weights (Air), performance levels (Pro) and all models offer a range of storage sizes. iPads come with or without mobile data capability, all have WiFi.
Surface tablets come at different performance levels, with Surface Book and Surface Pro operating at laptop levels, with 13 inch screens and capable of handling almost any Windows application that can deal with the amount of storage available. Surface 3 is Atom processor instead of Core family, 11 inch screen, lightest package in the family. Surface is probably the most expensive of the Windows tablet-style laptops available, other brands can be $200 and under.
Android tablets start well under $100 and go to over $600, depending on screen size and quality, processors, memory, storage, connectivity, and other hardware options.
Following my oldest daughter's example, I started with an iPad2 (for my wife, when she got too weak to hold an laptop in her hospital bed) which I am still using four years later, for Internet access from my easy chair and while traveling (I got it with 3G data capability). It shares information with an iPhone I bought a couple years later, through Apple and Google cloud storages.
My granddaughters bought Kindle Fire tablets, which are full function WiFi tablets, because they were cheap, but use them only as readers and game machines, borrowing their mom's iPad for heavier Internet work (like shopping) and using iPhones for their social connectivity.
My youngest daughter has a Galaxy Tab (I think 8 inch) with data connectivity which she uses while mobile, but still uses a 15-inch laptop for most of her school work. She uses Google cloud storage to connect the two and share data (her university account also uses Google shared storage).
Issues in choosing:
How much do you want to pay?
What intellectual investment do already have in an operating system's style?
What applications do you use offline?
How much storage to you need?
How portable do you want it to be (pocket, purse, book bag, backpack)?
Do you want to read it in bed (e.g. my original size Nook is easy to hold and read, the iPad I find too big, would need the Mini for reading in bed).
Do you have other devices for which you want to share information (e.g. Apple plays with Apple, Windows plays with Windows, though Google has sharing apps for all platforms if you will synch through Google).
We also have a picture of us standing in the four corners. Almost as interesting to me is the fact that it's not accurately located. With the advent of accurate GPS surveying it is "off". Forgotten how far off, but it ain't the real four corners.
That's a myth. The location is defined by statute to be where the 19th century surveyors placed the monument for the SW corner of Colorado.
GPS coordinates are irrelevant to definition of state lines, not only because they are based on an earth model and datum different from what was used to define those boundaries, but the GPS coordinates for any location in North America will continuously change as North America moves relative to the 0-0 point for GPS.
Since the front piece is most likely not laminated, it can't delaminate. It can buckle, it is an attachment and fit problem, and the fit does change with temperature and change of geometry as the various pieces of the "box" move around. You need to make sure that the seams, front to roof, front to sides, stay sealed, and none of the pieces are actually detaching from each other.
For long trips on a diagonal I plan a "preferred" route then modify it to adjust to short term weather forecasts and reports of road conditions.
For example, past 35 years we've been doing winter trips (home for Christmas) to southern Michigan. The shortest fastest route is I-44 to St Louis, I-55 to I-80, then I-94 into Michigan. But day to day conditions can make some part of that unusable, and there are dozens of alternatives for different sections, like going I-35 north Through KC to DesMoines to get around problems in southern Missouri or central Illinois, or taking I-70 from St Louis to Indianapolis to avoid a storm in northern Illinois, I-70 to I-75 to go through Ohio because northern Indiana is messed up. I've even gotten as far as Chicago before diverting to I-80/90 toll roads to avoid a lake effect storm in western Michigan, and once went as far south as Memphis coming back home because everything further north was shut down west of I-57. A lot of times my strategy was to travel north-south behind a storm, delay driving through it, and certainly to avoid staying in the storm system to be running its full north-south length.
If I get off the Interstates to use the trunk highways, the number of alternate routes approach hundreds. We don't have the high density of Interstate routes you enjoy in the East, but our trunk highways tend to be almost as good and less heavily traveled.
For your trip I-90 out of Albert Lea is probably the fastest route, I-94 out of Chicago costs very little extra time (and connects back to 90 to cross all the western mountain ranges). Taking I-70 out of Indianapolis to Kansas City, then I-29 to connect with I-80 to Salt Lake City, then I-84 and I-82 into Washington adds about an hour to the trip (42 vs 41 hours driving time).
That's a choice of three Interstates across the northern plains, and two choices to cross the Rockies with little difference in travel time. You make your choices based on weather forecasts or known hazards (e.g. you don't want to cross North Dakota if the Red River is flooding, you don't want to use I-80 if there are late blizzards in Wyoming). All cross the Cascades on the same route, I don't know the weather risks for that; I think it is snow chains country.
There are three other Interstate crossings: I-80 crossing the Sierra Nevada into central California (reached from I-70 or I-80, two different Rockies crossings) or I-40 to Bakersfield and up I-5, or I-20/I-10 into Los Angeles. This most southern route has the least problems with winter weather but is at least a full day's extra driving. I-40 is usually through with winter by late March, and getting into the spring thunderstorm season. I-70 and I-80 can still have winter weather, which is why we watch the forecasts for travel.
I have drum breaks on the RV. Is there a basic method to adjust or does one just check for drag 1st? I am rather ignorant when it comes to breaks.
Going back 50 years to when they were all drum and manual adjustment routine maintenance. My mentors at the shop taught me to adjust to where I could feel the drag at the tire, then back off two notches. We always adjusted with the tire mounted; I woouldn't know what the feel should be at the drum itself. We did this every 3000 miles on cars in the 50s and 60s.