The 4L85E just has 5 planetary gears instead of 3 on the output shaft. So you yes, if you have one rebuilt, you can easily install the different planetary. Technically you can buy 7 gear sets if you want to go crazy.
I think I might be tempted to try to reset the ECM. You can also go to a AutoZone and use their code reader for free. It would allow you to read any codes that are set, as well as reset the ECM (which is more than just reseting codes).
I'll try disconnecting the battery for a bit today and then pull into an auto zone first chance, that I go by one where I can fit, or just buy one. What is the approx. cost and since, I'm old tech, where is the outlet for this thing? I'm thinking on the left side of the steering column and what might it look like?
Sounds like you are well versed on these and also that it sounds to be a very good transmission. What did they do to improve it with the 4L85E and can it be upgraded either easily or with a rebuild.
We arrived at our destination today and I found some more parts to grease with wishful thinking, since the shift lever was tight when we left this morning as per usual, but did loosen up to normal right on schedule after a few miles of driving.
Checked the oil upon arrival and just right in the upper part of the cross hatches.
Haven't made any attempt at reseting the ECM as yet by disconnecting the chassis battery, so should I just leave it alone to learn on it's own or what?
Check the fluid level with engine running in park. DO NOT over fill. That is as bad as running low.
Yes and have been, but very difficult being sure with fluid in the tube and getting all over the stick. I think I'm OK, but want it to settle and will be driving a short distance as I said today before re-checking.
Dave seems to be offline at the moment. From what I've heard and read here on the forum, yeah, disconnecting the battery ground for 15 minutes will probably reset the memory. I don't think this is one of those problems that has a reset procedure for the tranni but you might check your service manual for that first.
Thanks for your response and will try that soon, but since we only plan on traveling 46 miles tomorrow, I want to see how it acts first and especially since adding some fluid.
A couple of things happen in fail safe mode. The ECM runs the pump pressure wide open to prevent slip. That also increase the TC lockup pressure to max, to prevent slip. Once this happens, the ECM remembers this condition and maybe assuming that the pump pressure needs to be operated higher from now on. If that is the case, it should eventually figure out everything is OK and go back to normal. I would change the fluid (especially if it smells burnt), maybe reset the ECM, and see if things settle down. I realize you are out on the trip, but I think it is worth it, to change the fluid.
Here is a couple of articles that tell you a little about how it works, and how the ECM is programed to think:
Great info and a good tech explanation. The fluid looks good and smells good, but new can't hurt or can it, as I've heard of problems with changing, unless it's always been done regularly and I have no history on this rig that we bought in 07? As for resetting the ECM, I thought that as soon as I began to read your excellent post. Now, what is the best way to do that and can I just disconnect the chassis battery for a few minutes to accomplish the same thing?
Climbed over the southern Rockies in extreme heat the other day on I8 and in to San Diego. Tranny overheated and went in to fail safe on that long eastern climb, even though the engine temp was OK or unless my gauge isn't reading correctly. Anyway after disconnecting the toad and a little cool down, we proceeded on our way with seemingly no ill effects. Next morning and in now habitable daytime temperatures, my shift lever felt tight in movement, but then quickly loosened up to normal after a few miles. Next morning, same thing and I did need and added some fluid, thinking that was the problem. Following morning, same thing and hope to know more as I proceed up the CA coast.
Anybody ever had this happen or might have some idea of why this is occuring? I have lubed everything I can see and feel that this is possibly an internal problem with the transmission. Not a big deal so far, but why?
Thank you for all of the comments/suggestions. In looking at the tag located on the RV, it states that max cold air pressure is 80psi. I checked a couple of charts and the actual tires themselves and the max load is listed at 3,250 lbs at 80 psi. Based on the charts it looks like I would want about 75 lbs in the front, 80 lbs in the main axle and I don't know how much in the tag since each tire is only carrying 800 lbs. Based on the chart that would be about 35 lbs, but that does not make sense. Should I keep the tag axle at 70 lbs even though there is very little weight?
As for shifting more weight to the tag axle, I'm not sure how to do that. I would need a little more research.
In regards to moving around the weight in the RV, I don't see anything I can do but dump the water. The water and fuel tanks are in the very back in the middle of the RV. Other than the factory equipement, I don't really have anything else in the RV. However, if I drop about 50 gallons of water that should drop over 400 pds of weight which would put me under 18,000 pds with a full tank of fuel.
IMO you should always add 10 - 15psi for a cushion and it looks as if you're almost there, if you figure it at 3000 lbs per tire on the drive axle. Thing is....more pressure is better than less and heat build up will destroy a tire in short order. Don't really think you can run much less than 75psi on a modern tire anyway. Also, I like to keep all my pressures the same even if some are a little more than over. I'm a believer that low pressures cause the most blowouts with other chief causes being road hazards. Some think that the cheaper brand names always blow out and the top names do not, but that's not my theory.
Where does the water come out of the tank? If there is a pickup line that goes from the top down then it may have a crack in it and not staying in the water that is in the tank. On our mh the pump gets its water from th bottom of the tank so as long as there is water in the tank we are fine.
Same here and I did take it apart a while back as it was acting up a little. Cleaned everything inside, applied silicon grease to the gaskets and evenly tightened all the screws. Also have it mounted with just one screw and a folded cloth (sponge might be better) under it. Works great now and sounds a lot better too, without the line hammering so much.
Well, today I was able to get my RV weighed at a local shipping company. The RV is a 1997 Thor Residency, 37', tag axle, 460, F53 chassis. The RV had a full fuel tank (75 gallons), full water tank (76 gallons), full propane tank (85 pounds) and some tools/cleaning supplies. Other than that, it was pretty empty, except for me (225 lbs). However, the total weight was 18,380 lbs. The front axle was 5,640 , the dually axle was 11,140 lbs and the tag axle was 1,600 lbs. I'm wondering if this was weighed correctly because the original build sheet says the total allowed weights are 6,000 front, 11,000 dually, 3,000 tag axle. It seems like maybe the weight was not totally on the tag axle, but the scale operator said that she knew how to weigh an RV.
Also, the paperwork said the RV should weigh 17,050 with a full fuel tank (no water or anything else). Do these weights sound right?
Also, the purpose of weighing it was that I wanted to find out the proper tire pressure, based on the axle weights, but I can't find anything for my tires (Maxxis Bravo Commercial LT - 235/85/16)
Does anyone have any suggestions for a chart or tire pressures?
This table should work for most any tire... INFLATION TABLES
Your drive axle weight sounds too high for whatever reason, but the rest is reasonable. Whatever you do, don't ever just pump your tires up to max or even close, as the newer tires may far exceed the max wheel or rim pressures, so make sure you know of your wheels capability first.
We did try with the engine running and still won't come in.
It's the right slide on passenger side. When you push the button you can here the motor but nothing happens. All other slides work fine. We did try pushing on slide while button was being pushed with no luck.
Is it total electric with a POWER GEAR unit perhaps? Does the motor have a lever (maybe enclosed in rubber) on the back to disengage the elect. brake. It could have been moved to the unlock position for manual operation inadvertently and especially if it's in a basement compartment.
Most 4wd vehicles are towed with the transfer case in neutral and the transmission in drive. Some transfer cases do not splash lube around when in neutral and can ruin rear bearings if towed extensively. Those manufacturers mostly recommend running the engine for a few minutes every 200 miles to provide lubrication if you are towing 4 down. Your transfer case may or may not need this procedure. Check the manufacturer's towing recommendations or go to a jeep forum and ask about your specific transfer case. Beware of unsubstantiated opinions though.
Actually, I believe most 4wd vehicles are towed with the transfer case in neutral and the TRANNY in PARK. At least that is the way my Explorer is towed.
This is correct and with a Wrangler without a steering lock, that's it for however many miles. With a manual tranny, it would be in top gear and the transfer case in neutral as well.
has anyone tried to install seperate lights to tow a jeep wrangler in the newer tail lights instead of putting in the blocking diodes?
COOLTECH is the way to go for the JK series Wrangler. Just plug it in the driver's side tail lights and install a connector on the front. Plug and play, no diodes, no nuttin.... Click it....COOLTECH
I did recently help a friend with an older Jeep in which we just ran a harness to the rear with a 4 pin connector attached and then mounted some LED lights on a hitch haul that just plugs in. He uses it like we do to haul bikes or extra cargo, so it's needed when being towed anyway. One could use a light bar of angle iron as well. He also can plug it in to his tow lights as well if he desires them to work when not being towed.
Got a TT right now, DW really REALLY wants a Class A. The whole towing a 32 ft trailer thing makes her nervous. She is quite literally on pins and needles while we pull. We have never had an incident and sway is not an issue. I thought about it some more and it would be nice to be able to pull in somewhere late at night, park, pull shades and go to bed while traveling. I don't think that the MPG's would be an issue for us since we only get 7.5 with our F350 and TT while towing now.
Having the coach cool or warm while we travel, along with having the amenities for the children while enroute would be nice. They could play xbox or whatever while we travel. ETC.
However, there is the issue of the Toad... (or is it towed?). I often see Motorhomes pulling the vehicles behind them. My first thought is, towing is towing.. right?
So my question, going from a TT to a Motorhome.. is pulling a toad different than pulling the coach?
I only use my truck for towing the TT. I could easily see us pairing down the dedicated TV and the TT down to the motorhome and using my car as a toad. (not sure if I can, its a 2000 Lincoln Town Car)
We would probably be looking at 2000 ish model years for our first Motorhome, so that would be either a 454 or a V10 in the Gassers. We currently do not have a slide out and get along just fine without it. We would probably purchase a no slide model unless we just found an awesome deal on a slide model. Yup, to save money :)
Thanks for any help, tips, suggestions, etc you can give us.
Difference being that you won't know the toad is even back there. You will have to find a suitable vehicle for this and hopefully your everyday driver, which saves a bundle of money in the long run. Jeeps are great for towing and is the DW's DD.
Go with at least 2000 or better chassis and engine with the Ford and not the 99 or first model engine V10 production, IMO.
Guess I should have included this above. Am considering replacing the Even brake with either Invisibrake from Roadmaster or the Ready Brake. Any suggestions?
ReadyBrake for me or nothing and you should never need any tech support, cuz it's just too simple.
Take a look at The Ready Brute System. Simple and effective!
Another plus is that it is less expensive than either of the ones that You are looking at.
Yep, READY/BRUTE ELITE all the way and with a cool tech wiring harness for the Jeep. Can't get any better, cheaper, simpler or effective w/8000lb alum. bars.
Give TOWBARS UNLIMITED a call for a better price and accessory recommendations.
I am on the fence about trading in my 2002 Flair 25Y with no slides and getting a newer motorhome with slides, what manufactures has the worse slide issues, I have heard nightmares about slides and also some that have had no issues at all, I am a handy person that can fix most things but also don't want to spend my time RVing with slide issues..
What brands/years should I stay away from, looking at 2004-2008 gas class A models. (maybe newer if price is cheap)
IMO, I'd stay away from full wall slides, since they are so huge and heavy.
We've replaced a power gear motor ass'y that was worn out when we got it (too easy to replace but expensive for part)and have had no problems since. Also can easily and manually crank it in if necessary. Wouldn't do without at least one slide and does affect resale value.
I have a 1997 fleetwood motorhome with 7.4 vortex engine and my ignition switch has overheated and burnt. Does anyone have, or can anyone let me know where I could obtain a schemetic for the ignition switch wiring.
1997 Fleetwood south wind 7.4 L vortec engine
Can you not just replace the switch, wire per wire and would it not be a lot easier doing it that way?