RE: Pull Test ?
In a thread some time back, there was a discussion about mis-hitching, in particular the term "high-hitch" was bandied about. In that thread the possibility of a "high-hitch" was given as a primary reason to do a pull test. I, and a couple of other owners of a certain hitch, were vociferous in our responses that since you cannot mis-hitch our favorite hitch a pull test was unnecessary.
That is the basis of this "Did so, did not" repartee. I don't do a pull test because the design of my hitch makes a mis-hitch all but impossible. Locking the handle open is not a mis-hitch, that's a brain fart pure and simple. If you don't own a B&W hitch apparently a pull test is the only sensible thing to do if you wish to avoid awful and dire happenings. :)
And that's the truthhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
I think it is time for you ,and your buddy to give it rest, you don't seem to get the message on bad advice, go somewhere where they will buy into this, too many knowledgeable people that know better here.
RE: Pull Test ?
Cummins, you saying things like the hitch is fool proof and that there is no need to do a pull test with a B&W is missleading. The fact that you choose not to do a pull test is your buisness but at the end of the day there is no good reason not to do one. There are however many reasons to do one no matter what hitch you have not the least of which is human error.
What is the difference? I have eyes I look at the hitch to make sure everything LOOKS good, no different than pulling on it. You just have to remember to do it.
The first thing I do when I have backed into the hitch is get out and attach the break away cable and padlock to the handle in the closed position. It is done no question. No big handles or sliding bars or whatever else that people seem to have a problem with.
People can do what they want, myself and many others have eyes and a brain and we use them and understand if you look there is no need for a pull test.
Gotcha, I'll stick with the no eyes no brains crowd:h
Like I said I don't give two peas what you do I just wish you'd stop giving bad advivce to good people that might actually believe you.
Good luck with that, been trying for quite some time, plain bad advice, him another gentleman on this forum. They would be well served if they just promoted what a quality hitch it is.
RE: Pull Test ?
I think that anybody following your comments, CUMMINS12V98, knows that you love B&W - and it's OK to promote, but just not in our faces, all the time.
It's kind of like hearing all the time that the Dallas Cowboys are America's Team (NOT).
Isn't the whole point to Hitch Safely?
My comments are more for the person looking for a different hitch or have never had a 5er and are looking to buy a hitch.
When I say foolproof I have also given step by step details how it can be.
The subject is PULL TEST, I don't do one and like my self there are others on here who don't do one either.
Yes "hitch safely", I have given step by step direction of how to do so.
If you don't agree with my methods fine, but if followed they are FOOL PROOF!
The more steps and details added make it more likely there could be a problem. I like the K I S S method.
Any method or step by step you follow that insures the proper hook IS FOOL PROOF, that puts every hitch in the same light . B & W is nothing special when it come to hooking it up it has to be done just like the rest of the hitches. My hitch is just as fool proof as yours with no more needed steps then yours if they are done, if not, whoops !!!
RE: Pull Test ?
Trust but verify....I do that in my job every time a contractor tells me something about their system (I'm a Navy flight tester)
I do that with my 5ver as well...do the pull test every time, with the landing gear about 0.5 - 1" off the ground....and yes, I have a bedsaver....again, my job demands safety above all things - and it carries over when I haul.
Cummins12V98 - do you work for B&W?
Nope but I believe in promoting quality products and people that stand behind their products.
I , and I believe no one on here has a problem with the quality, durability, etc, all the things you say about the B & W except for one. "FOOLPROOF". Rethink that comment, promote the B & W all you want, but quit misleading people. There are many on here that pull fifth wheels, and know hitches, and any hitch can be misused creating a dropped fifth wheel.
RE: 2002 F350 Lariat with 7.3L Diesel
Granted, the cooler is/was a problem (easily fixed with the 6.0 cooler)but the main problem is the solenoids and clutch pack in stock form. These transmissions are modifiable to 1,000hp+ by the right builder such as Brian's Truck Shop in Lead Hill AR. There are a few builders across the country who do this as well. They will custom build and match the transmission to your power and towing requirements. My 2001 F250 was putting down 460hp with 1050lbs torque on the dyno and it still would not keep up with my stock Duramax and the 6spd transmission when towing, especially in the mountains. The 4spd was always out of the power band. It had a higher low gear and lower hi gear ratios with fewer gears in between. Sure, the Ford would smoke the chevy (literally) when I poured on the coal but exhaust temps would go through the roof. If I could have put the 6spd Allison behind the 7.3, I would still be driving the Ford. Except for the tranny, the Ford was a superior truck in every respect. Brakes, steering, build quality, durability, you name it and it was all truck, not a SUV hybrid.
It stills falls back on keeping the transmission cool, yes build them up, then the etg's get ya, but just run a decent tuner, 4" exhaust bigger intercooler, and intake , to help keep the ETG's down, and don't try to pound them up the mountains, and that stock transmission will last a long time. I will say again heat killed them ,keep them cool, and it won't , and by the way I will meet you at the top of the mountain, just give me a extra minute or two, but if not we will meet at the end a couple minutes apart.
RE: Pull Test ?
If I did a pull test, which I don't, I would do it just after I hitched up, while the chocks were still in place. This would take the brakes out of the equation, and the legs would still be down to catch the 5er if it came loose.
Same here...mine has a green flag that indicates the hitch is in place. Ensure handle is in correct locked location and install locking pin...done.
Happy Camping...
I will always do a pull test with the landing gear above the ground a couple of inches. My friend had his hitch break. No product cannot break so good to be safe, kinda like buying insurance don't need it until ya need it and then ya have it. Just sayin.
chevman
My theory is Trust, but Verify. Much like the measure twice cut once thought.
Blind trust will one day bite you!
My Reese will not open from the force of the pin pulling on the jaws, even if the handle isn't locked, in fact the force of the pin pulling forces the jaws shut.
I still do a pull test, as I do it before I leave the cab after hitching, takes less than 10 seconds!
I too have a reese and what has been mentioned by the B & W boys is no different then my reese, I maneuver the handle in the open position , back in with the two mated , no gap, the handle slams shut , I lock the handle, hook the breakaway cable, and I am hooked ,no high pin , jaw is shut ,the handle is locked, do I need a pull test ,no, do I do it, yes . Blind trust as you say will bite one day, and thinking you have a fool proof hitch is a good way to find out especially with a hitch that CAN BE locked in the OPEN position such as the B & W . NEVER lock it, no problem, keep it locked out as one did, and find out the hard way, and it will happen again with ANY hitch.
RE: 2002 F350 Lariat with 7.3L Diesel
Transmissions were awful.
x2 Great engines though
Not totally true, I have towed heavy with my early 99, still have the stock tranny, but have had a 6.0 transmission cooler in there the entire time I started towing heavy fifth wheels, before that it was a light weight travel trailer. IMO towing heavy with the inadequate cooling they had is what killed the majority of the 4R100 transmissions. I have towed heavy the last eight years with a tuner, and the 6.0 transmission cooler . My transmission stays cool, and shifts as good as it did the day I bought it nearly 15 years ago.
RE: Montana 3100 RL
You have more important things to be concerned about on a Montana than the portable Island.
That could be said of any fifth wheel, but did your comment help answer his question, which was his concern about the portable island.
To the op , I have to think the island stays where it belongs, but hopefully you will get the answer you need from owners of the 3100RL
RE: Any 5th wheel hitch operate exactly like a semi 5th wheel?
I had a RBW before the B&W I THOUGHT it was a great hitch, in reality it was a POS. It clunked all the time and on my Dad's the slide bar actually broke.
The B&W is just a simple solid IMHO fool proof hitch.
I LOCK my handle closed and I attach my breakaway cable to the padlock when locking the handle. It gives me another reason not to forget locking the handle.
I personally would not leave the handle closed and drive off without it being pinned/locked just to see if it would stay closed!
I have the handle open, back into the kingpin then get out and LOCK the handle with the break away cable attached then go raise the landing gear, no pull test DONE.
I fail to see your reasoning behind your hitch. We have been thru this before. Let me explain how my hitch works, then you tell me if it is any different then yours. I place my handle in the open position , when I back in it slams shut, it has no choice the way it is built, now I need to do two things ,lock my handle closed, and attach my breakaway cable. I can chose to do a pull test or not, IMO it is not needed I can see that the jaw is closed, and as I said it has no choice but close period !!! I will go one step further here with my hitch, you can't lock it in the open position , the arm is positioned to keep it open, but will not remain there when backed into. What purpose does it serve to be able lock the hitch in the open position, and then forget to close it. I have said before you guys with B & W hitches are misleading people here, have no doubt it is a great hitch, but a fool proof hitch , I think not. Any hitch has the potential to drop a fifth wheel ,and the B & W is no different.
RE: Long Box--Short Box?
Stick with the long box, you won't like having less room in the bed.
Disagree!
Had both as crew cabs (short now) - found no need, or desire to *ever* have a long bed again!
But - It's a matter of personal preference!.:W
I wouldn't buy a truck based on how it works out for others - and the OP shouldn't either.
Guess if he makes the wrong choice - someone on an internet forum is to blame..:S
~
Tha way I look at it is he knows what he has and if he changes he may regret it. I gave a reason he might.
Having several long beds over the years, I would not trade my current SB crew cab for any long bed, just don't need the extra length or room, just not a factor after towing fifth wheels for the past seven years. It is a personal choice, and would not be a mistake either way. Just like hitches, there are some that think one works better then others, but in the end run they serve one purpose , and then they all work the same.
RE: B&W hitch
I also highly recommend the Patriot, and the purchase from Tweetys. I'm 66 and disabled, but could manage the head fine, the base with some effort.
I just wish people would at least check them out and compare to the others.
I can't stand the clunk that you get with some of the other hitches.
As adamant as you are about B & W I have to guess you are involved somehow with them, after all they are just a hitch, and serve only one purpose.
To the op as said before check with B & W to get the correct weights, and see if it something you can handle. I chose with my hitch to mount a small electric hoist to the ceiling of my garage, and then set it on a small wheeled cart, and rolled to the corner of the garage out of the way.
RE: Fifth wheel slider
I have the Reese 16K manual slider. My problem is that the slider will not slide back when hooked up to the RV. It will slide easily when not hooked up. The service manager of my dealer says that Reese recommends dropping the landing gear and take some weight off the hitch (my pin weight is a little over 2K pounds) when want it to slide to the maneuvering position. It seams like a lot of hassle to have to do this every time I want to use the hitch slide. Has anyone else had to do this?
Reading the operating manual, it does say to take the weight off the hitch before sliding it back. I have done it both ways, the thing is if it hangs up, and then comes loose it hits pretty hard. Which ever way you do it do as said before keep it greased up well, and take it slow.
RE: Question for Ford 7.3 owners?
OK,'99 F250/7.3 here.I'm running a DP Tuner chip as well,one good thing about this(and other custom tuners as well)is they can tune the transmission shifting/torque converter lock up as well as the engine.If you're on a budget the stock airbox is fine for a chipped truck,just make sure the three tabs on the fender side of the airbox that lock the lid down are still intact,if not it will let dirt in.I'm currently at 214,xxx miles on mine and its VERY dependable.
As far as the transmission goes,a good chip(not Bully Dog and the like) can firm the shifts and TC lock up,and this will keep the heat down(heat is the biggest trans killer),also as stated before put a transmission cooler off of a 6.0 truck as the stock trans cooler is not suffecient.+1 on going to ford-trucks.com..great bunch of guys who are all more than willing to help and share their knowledge...Phil
I agree don't mess with the aftermarket coolers, go to the 6.0 ,and be done. Been there done that ,the 6.0 trans cooler is by far the best. The heat IMO is what killed a lot of the 4R100, and like my early 99 if I had not went to the 6.0 cooler, and a good gauge early on before I started towing heavy, I probably would have cooked mine, but it is still shifting ,and staying cool when towing a 13K fifth wheel. The DP tuner definitely wakes up the 7.3 , and really improves shifting. Along with AIS intake, four inch exhaust they tow very well, but do have to tow by the gauges, and watch the egt's running a tuner.
RE: New Blue Ox Bed Saver
Actually I dug out my manual, well, I opened the PDF file, and mine doesn't say to pin the handle back when hitching up. It does say to pin the handle back when unhitching, which I didn't remember ever reading. :) This is what it says:
"Remove the RV cam handle safety pin and rotate the RV cam handle to the open position."
Up2nogood, the only way a B&W hitch will drop a trailer is if the owner has an "Oops" moment. Period. Rconkin was good enough to volunteer the info of how his happened so we can see that. The fact is that the risk of dropping your trailer while using a B&W hitch is miniscule, and money spent on a bed saver could be spent on fuel going somewhere to have some fun. :)
We'll just have to agree to disagree about the bed saver.
Here is what I am going to agree to disagree with you and the other fan boy Cummins,is that you guys don't get it , however miniscule you say it is , a drop can and will happen with any hitch B & W included, and that guy will probably wish he hadn't listened to you about the bedsaver.. Stop the nonsense.
RE: New Blue Ox Bed Saver
There is an individual on another thread who says he dropped his 5er using a B&W hitch. He had the handle latched back so it couldn't close, hooked up, and then pulled forward without unlocking the handle. It can happen, but you really have to work at it. But then operating under that assumption you should have an alarm so you don't forget to put your slides in before driving off. :)
The thing that gets us fan-boys aggravated is the assumption that the B&W hitch can be mis-hitched and the 5er dropped. That can't happen, but yes, a person can have a brain fart and not allow the hitch to close.
FWIW you can forget to put the pin in the handle and you still won't drop the trailer. BTDT. The 5th wheel pin will not pull out of the jaws. When the jaws close and the handle swings to the rear the hitch is locked. Putting the pin in will keep someone from pulling the handle, but the hitch is solid even if you forget to put the pin in. I drove all the way out of the campground, down the road to the interstate before I saw it was not pinned. No problem, I went back, swung the handle and put the pin in.
Yes, I'm a B&W fan-boy and proud of it. :)
How to you figure one drops a fifth wheel, they have a brain fart as you say , is leaving the hitch locked in the open position not a mis-hitch as you call it. You can ,and will drop a fifth wheel with a B & W if you leave the hitch open, how else besides a high hitch do you think a fifth wheel will come loose. What comes to mind for me is leaving the hitch in the open position.
Not sure why anyone would pin a B&W in the open position??????
Why would anyone do anything to cause a drop **** happens !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It was a serious question. I can't think of a reason to pin the handle in the open position with a B&W. Is there a reason?
I am sure it was serious ,this whole deal of dropping fivers is serious, and also you fan boys putting into people's heads they can't drop a fiver with this B & W fifth wheel hitch you guys are promoting, that is what is serious. Its a great a hitch I get it, but quit the nonsense you are spouting.
RE: New Blue Ox Bed Saver
There is an individual on another thread who says he dropped his 5er using a B&W hitch. He had the handle latched back so it couldn't close, hooked up, and then pulled forward without unlocking the handle. It can happen, but you really have to work at it. But then operating under that assumption you should have an alarm so you don't forget to put your slides in before driving off. :)
The thing that gets us fan-boys aggravated is the assumption that the B&W hitch can be mis-hitched and the 5er dropped. That can't happen, but yes, a person can have a brain fart and not allow the hitch to close.
FWIW you can forget to put the pin in the handle and you still won't drop the trailer. BTDT. The 5th wheel pin will not pull out of the jaws. When the jaws close and the handle swings to the rear the hitch is locked. Putting the pin in will keep someone from pulling the handle, but the hitch is solid even if you forget to put the pin in. I drove all the way out of the campground, down the road to the interstate before I saw it was not pinned. No problem, I went back, swung the handle and put the pin in.
Yes, I'm a B&W fan-boy and proud of it. :)
How to you figure one drops a fifth wheel, they have a brain fart as you say , is leaving the hitch locked in the open position not a mis-hitch as you call it. You can ,and will drop a fifth wheel with a B & W if you leave the hitch open, how else besides a high hitch do you think a fifth wheel will come loose. What comes to mind for me is leaving the hitch in the open position.
Not sure why anyone would pin a B&W in the open position??????
Why would anyone do anything to cause a drop **** happens !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
RE: New Blue Ox Bed Saver
There is an individual on another thread who says he dropped his 5er using a B&W hitch. He had the handle latched back so it couldn't close, hooked up, and then pulled forward without unlocking the handle. It can happen, but you really have to work at it. But then operating under that assumption you should have an alarm so you don't forget to put your slides in before driving off. :)
The thing that gets us fan-boys aggravated is the assumption that the B&W hitch can be mis-hitched and the 5er dropped. That can't happen, but yes, a person can have a brain fart and not allow the hitch to close.
FWIW you can forget to put the pin in the handle and you still won't drop the trailer. BTDT. The 5th wheel pin will not pull out of the jaws. When the jaws close and the handle swings to the rear the hitch is locked. Putting the pin in will keep someone from pulling the handle, but the hitch is solid even if you forget to put the pin in. I drove all the way out of the campground, down the road to the interstate before I saw it was not pinned. No problem, I went back, swung the handle and put the pin in.
Yes, I'm a B&W fan-boy and proud of it. :)
How to you figure one drops a fifth wheel, they have a brain fart as you say , is leaving the hitch locked in the open position not a mis-hitch as you call it. You can ,and will drop a fifth wheel with a B & W if you leave the hitch open, how else besides a high hitch do you think a fifth wheel will come loose. What comes to mind for me is leaving the hitch in the open position.
RE: New Blue Ox Bed Saver
This comment is for people that have not purchased a hitch. Or are thinking about another.
Get a B&W you do not need a bed saver, save your money. With their simple yet strong design as long as the kingpin and 5th wheel plates are touching the handle is closed and locked and a visual that the 1" thick silver jaws are closed around the kingpin it is properly hitched and no pull test is need.
This is amazing every time I read this from you. Let me point these things out to you on my REESE hitch , as long as the kingpin, and 5th wheel plates are touching , the handle is closed and locked, a visual that the REESE 1" thick BLACK JAW are closed around the kingpin it is properly hitched, and no pull test is needed. I will take one step back if the handle is closed on my REESE hitch ,and locked, then there is no need for a visual the jaw is closed. Granted I could paint the jaw silver or white, but why I don't really look at it anyway. The kingpin ,and fifth wheel plates are touching the handle is closed , and locked I am hooked.
So IMO if you do the things mentioned above ,and even add the pull test on any hitch then save your money , forget the bedsaver.
The visual really is not needed just another thing for someone to do if they want peace of mind.
Not sure how to take your post.
My post was for people looking for a new or needing a replacement hitch.
If you are confident in your hitch that is great.
I would be confident with any quality hitch, as I said before it is not the hitch, it is the guy using it. They all accomplish the same thing.
RE: New Blue Ox Bed Saver
I would paint the jaws white anyway, allows for simple check and peace of mind.
I have no problem with that, the problem is with the guy hitching not the hitch, if painting them white helps ,great do it. You can drop a fifth wheel with any hitch, you are fooling yourself thinking you can'tWell, we'll have to agree to disagree on that one. :)
What painting the jaw white , or any hitch can be dropped. I didn't think there was anything there to be disagreeable with. One can paint the jaws white, can't hurt. Don't latch any fifth wheel hitch properly you are going to drop a fifth wheel, is there something there that you are in disagreement with. I am not pro bedsaver if that is what you think.
RE: New Blue Ox Bed Saver
I would paint the jaws white anyway, allows for simple check and peace of mind.
I have no problem with that, the problem is with the guy hitching not the hitch, if painting them white helps ,great do it. You can drop a fifth wheel with any hitch, you are fooling yourself thinking you can't
