RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'urbex' found 5 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
More detail on pre-purchase check - fridge,water heater,etc?

I've been browsing ads for a new-to-me truck camper. I've always bought projects in the past, for dirt cheap, knowing that they would need extensive work before being usable as I was always flush with time, and short on money, lol This time, however, I want to buy something that's more or less ready to go. I'm still not in a financial position to be able to buy something brand new, though. I've read through many buying guides, which all say something to effect of having the seller go through all the systems to verify functionality, but never in much detail on the checks themselves. Obviously checking things like AC power, DC converters, water pump, AC, would be easy, but how does one handle things like the 3 way fridge, or water heater? Would a water heater be able to produce at least warm water in a few minutes, at least enough to be able to tell it's working? Or should I request that the seller light it off several hours before I arrive to ensure it's good and hot when I look at the camper? If it's a dual mode, is there any good way of verifying both modes work without tearing it apart? I've never owned a properly functioning RV fridge. I use a Norcold 12 volt compressor portable fridge in my camper now. I can usually feel the cooling coils getting cold inside of a few minutes on that one just to verify it's working (as opposed to an overnight pre-cool to chill the whole box)..would an absorption fridge be the same way? Would I just turn it on in AC mode for a few minutes, feel the coils inside getting cool, shut it off and let it get warm again, then repeat on 12V DC and LP modes? Or does it really need to go for hours to get cold? Same thing - should I/we be turning it on while looking at it, or the night before? Or is this all just going to one of those cases where you pays your monies, and you takes your chances?
urbex 02/08/18 03:35pm Beginning RVing
.

Never mind...can't delete.
urbex 01/24/18 12:52pm Truck Campers
RE: Towing 5K-6K with mid 90's Class B?

Wow...a truck designed to pull 80K for a 5K trailer load? My '90 F350 does just fine with the 3000lb camper, 1500 pound flatbed, and that 6500 pound truck on the trailer behind it. I just didn't know if the suspension/drivetrain was all that different on the Class Bs compared to a pickup. But never mind...I'm unsubscribing anyways. There's no point in having my email ding for those kinds of answers.
urbex 12/01/17 12:28pm Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Towing 5K-6K with mid 90's Class B?

5k,6k is a whole lot ,might rethink just how much extra stuff you need. In my world of fun, it's really not. The combined weight of the trailer and the Samurai is around 5K, and that's the light weight toy. My current trailer is around 2500lbs empty. Add weight of tools, spare tires and other parts, trailer winch/battery, storage boxes, tie downs, extra fuel...it's pretty easy to hit 6K loaded. The big toy weighs around 6500lb by itself, but I wouldn't be planning on hauling it behind a B-class.
urbex 12/01/17 09:07am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
Towing 5K-6K with mid 90's Class B?

As I inspect my Amerigo truck camper for the extent of water damage and associated rot, I'm realizing it's going to be considerably larger project than I had originally anticipated, and likely will be a year-plus project for me now. Being that virtually every truck camper I've owned has ultimately turned into a rot infested nightmare. I'm not all that wild about buying yet another one, and I'm not spending what a new one costs due to infrequency of use (I'm still in that part of my life where I'm working full time, and often putting in 50-60 hours a week, so my camping is often limited to local overnighters) I've started thinking about picking up a Class B this time around while I work on the Amerigo. Except that I'm probably in the atypical camp - I'll need to tow a trailer+load that will weigh in the 5K-6K pound range. Load is a Suzuki Samurai off road toy, and flat towing is absolutely not an option - There's a decent chance of catastrophic level damage on every run, and the weekend I broke an axle housing in two was the last time I ever flat towed it any where. Due to budget concerns/frequency of use, I'm looking at early to mid 90's units, though at this point, I'm not looking at any specific models/chassis. I would assume I'd want something on a 1 ton chassis, and at least a big block V8 or V10 motor. Given what I've been spending to maintain my current F350 diesel, I'm also not that wild about getting another diesel motor, regardless of fuel efficiency. Is this even a feasible option in general for the 90's era Bs, or am I going to end up on a snipe hunt trying to find one with enough GCWR to pull this off?
urbex 12/01/17 05:17am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
Sort by:    Search within results:


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2018 CWI, Inc. © 2018 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS