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 > Your search for posts made by 'valhalla360' found 285 matches.

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RE: Noob generator question - how much?

Technically true but in the fuzzy world of generator ratings, the 3000w unit you suggest would never start the AC based on your 54amp requiremnt and most people aren't going to climb onto the roof and pull apart the AC to find the rating on the compressor. They will look in the manual or online spec and see the amp rating. Reality is there is peak and then there is peak (and there is peak also) and the manufactures don't like to share details. There is continous rated, peak rated for maybe 10 mintues, peak rated for 10 seconds, peak rated for 1 second, etc... (of course they don't simply put a table on the side of the box to make this simple). So simple rule of thumb that usualy works is if your generator is rated for 2-3 times the continous amps, it usually works (note I said usually and when people try to keep the cost and the weight down, they play on the edge and sometimes it doesn't work). It's not pretty and the manufacturers could provide much better info to simplify the process.
valhalla360 07/23/14 12:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Are large gas motor Rv's underpower?

Valhallo360, I had changed my post slightly before yours came up. The John Deere was digging itself into a whole while the steam engine tractor was pulling it. It was good video! MM. In that case traction was definetly the issue. Once the wheels start spinning, you aren't able to harness either the HP or the torque. The rear wheels on those old steam tractors probably literally weigh a ton each, let alone everything else built out of heavy solid metal pieces. A similar analogy would be to adapt the engine out of a big diesel pusher and put it into a smart car and put it up against a 1 ton pickup with the base gas engine. I can guarantee the pickup would hardly notice the smart car back there even though smart car would easily have more HP and torque. I think that you will find is that with a steam engine, the power is in the pressure in the boiler, which is already built up to the maximum, before the drive train is put in to motion. It is not like a gasoline or diesel engine that has to develop RPM's before it can start delivering power. As soon as the steam pressure is released to the piston, all of the power is there, even at 1 RPM. The same goes for certain electric motors, which is why they are used in heavy locomotives. The diesel engine in a train powers the generator which powers the electric drive motor that makes the train move. The full power of the electric motor is there to apply to the drive wheels, right from a standing start. It, like the steam engine, does not have to develop any RPM's to have the power to get a huge train in motion. That may or may not be the case. Steam engines also benefit from momentum which is why they often have large flywheels. In fact if the engine is only 1 or 2 cyclinder, at very low RPM, it may have almost no torque while the piston rod is in line with the crank shaft (or close to it). So it is similar to IC engines though to a lesser degree but once the JD tires start spinning, it doesn't matter how much HP or torque the engine can supply at the wheel, there is no traction so it can't harness the power and you can't determine which engine/transmission would win. Of course in terms of a MH climbing a mountain, if you run out of traction, you have other issues to worry about other than can you maintain 60mph.
valhalla360 07/23/14 11:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Travel Trailers with Aluminum Frames

I assume we are talking about the "frame" (big beams that run the length of the trailer do most of the structural support) vs the "framing" (studs that form the walls). Aluminum framing is quite common as an alternative to wood. Aluminum frames are far less common and typically only used in smaller trailers. The cost to use aluminum frames is a good deal more and much of the weight savings is eaten up by needing thicker beams as aluminimum is not as strong as steel. It is also harder to work with aluminimum. Welding requires special attention. A big concern is dis-similar metals. If you put steel and aluminimum in contact with each other (say where the suspension connects to the frame), if it gets damp and salty, the aluminimum will sacrafice itself to protect the steel and in the process rot away. It can definetly be addressed but if not done right can cause problems very quickly. Given the fact that it's nothing for a steel frame on a trailer to be perfectly fine other than some surface rust 25-30yrs on, I wouldn't count on aluminimum to be an advantage in terms of corrosion. For similar size trailers, I wouldn't count on much MPG advantage since the bulk of the fuel economy issue at highway speeds is wind resistance.
valhalla360 07/23/14 09:36am Travel Trailers
RE: Noob generator question - how much?

Just to clarify, most of the generators mentioned are inverter generators. The cheap lawnmower generators are generally disliked as they are annoyingly loud. Also the quality of the power can be questionable if you are trying to run electonics off them. The name brand inverter generators provide much cleaner power and are drastically quieter. Starting the AC is about having enough watts/amps to start the compressor. While the AC may be rated at say 12 amps while running, you probably need more like 25-30amps to actually get it started. This is where the answer gets fuzzy. - At high altitudes, the generator motor is putting out less power due to thin air. - Some AC units have a hard start capacitor which stores up a small burst of energy to help get the compressor going. - Some have set up the fan to come on seperately so the generator isn't trying to start both the compressor and fan at the same time (compressor has a much higher draw) - Starting amperage is not typically defined and seems to vary from compressor to compressor for the exact same model so what works for one may not work for another. It also varys between a warm and cold motor. Usually if it will start the compressor the first time, the AC compressor will cycle back on just fine. - The wattage you see on the generator is typically peak wattage. Divide by 120V to get peak amperage. Some generators will exceed this momentarily others won't. It's generally not clearly stated by the manufacturer. A 2500watt inverter generator is a nice compromise and probably will run your AC. We have a 2400watt Yamaha that does fine. Once started, we can run TV, fans and other minor loads with the AC running. Ours it probably at the upper end of what we would consider portabile for 1 person (70lbs). This is where the paired 2000watt units come into play. They are definetly portable for 1 person and paired up, have plenty of power. The trade off is significant additional cost to purchase.
valhalla360 07/23/14 09:26am Tech Issues
RE: Trans cooling

On the freeway, does it lock into overdrive? I'm not sure about the paticulars of your truck but once the torque converter locks up, the heat generated by pumping transmission fluid drops dramatically as it's no longer being asked to transfer power between the engine and transmission. In city driving, the fluid is doing most of the energy transfer and that generates heat especially if you do a lot of hard acceleration. Secondarily, in city driving less air is passing over the trans cooler due to slower speeds. This is why you get a counter intuitive temperature reading with lower temps when you are putting out more power on the freeway.
valhalla360 07/23/14 09:11am Dinghy Towing
RE: Are large gas motor Rv's underpower?

Valhallo360, I had changed my post slightly before yours came up. The John Deere was digging itself into a whole while the steam engine tractor was pulling it. It was good video! MM. In that case traction was definetly the issue. Once the wheels start spinning, you aren't able to harness either the HP or the torque. The rear wheels on those old steam tractors probably literally weigh a ton each, let alone everything else built out of heavy solid metal pieces. A similar analogy would be to adapt the engine out of a big diesel pusher and put it into a smart car and put it up against a 1 ton pickup with the base gas engine. I can guarantee the pickup would hardly notice the smart car back there even though smart car would easily have more HP and torque.
valhalla360 07/23/14 09:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Are large gas motor Rv's underpower?

I designed engines for 35 years. It is about horsepower and weight of the Motorhome. NOT TORQUE!! Except the more torque means more horsepower. So if a gas MH has a good horsepower to weight ratio it will do just fine. Mr. Silverback, I'm certainly not questioning your advice because you probably have forgotten more than I'll ever know about engines. But, you are the first person I've seen that says 'not torque' is not a major component to power an engine. All the diesel converstaion I've read about engines is torque, torque, torque. For instance, on the new motorhome that we have ordered, the engine has been replaced from a Detroit with 515 hp and 1,650 lb. ft. of torque to a Volvo 500 hp with 1,750 lb. ft. of torque. The Prevost guys say that I should be able to tell a difference on the increase ability to climb steep hills. That's what they are telling me if I understood them correctly. MM. Torque at the rear wheels, which is all that really matters, is a function of gearing, which is why a hand held 1" air ratchet can produce 2000+ foot pounds of torque in a truck shop. Plenty of torque with the air ratchet but it won't get you up a hill very fast. :B Then you talked to a salesman and there is the old adage about if his mouth was moving he was lying. Honestly, I don't know what that means about the air ratchet compared to a diesel engine. The info I got is from the Prevost sight where all the gear-heads hang out, they are not salesman but very intelligent folks (apparently, they have me fooled) LOL! MM. What it means is to ask about the gear ratio on the different rigs. Same engine and same amount of engine torque can climb hills much differently depending on the rear axle ratio. If one coach is geared for mountains and the other is geared for top speed, the engine can be the same and the one that is geared for the mountains will beat the other to the top every time. One axle ratio can give you much better mileage and another gear ratio can give you much better hill climbing ability, all with the same engine horsepower and torque. The axle ratio changes the amount of power that is available at the rear wheels. Rgatijnet1, yes, I understand what you are saying about the gear ratio. I've never seen it as an option on any coach, but I could be wrong. I saw a video of a new John Deere (?) diesel farm tractor on a pull-off contest with an old steam engine farm tractor. The steam engine tractor pulled the four wheel drive John Deere with the JD going at full throttle (they were attached back to back). The torque on the steam engine was unbeatable. The guy said the steam engine gear ratio had to be set for pulling OR speed. MM. Your example fits perfectly with my statement of: - torque determines if you can get up the hill. - HP determines how fast. Most likely, the steam tractor simply had more torque at the wheels via lower gears but it probably never attained any significant speed. There also may have been secondary issues. Old steam tractors are typically very heavy and it probably had excellent traction even if only 2wheel drive. If the JD's wheels started spinning, it may have lost due to traction not because it didn't have more pulling power.
valhalla360 07/23/14 07:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Are large gas motor Rv's underpower?

My opinion, does it really matter how fast you get there as long as you get there ? I go for the thrill, I am in no hurry ! What my concern has been is that when we get stuck behind a very slow moving semi and we fall to their speed of 35 mph going up a steep hill, will I have enough 'umpth' to pass him without causing a major slow-down in the passing lane. I'm not wanting to race anybody, I just want the ability to pass within reason instead of being stuck behind a very slow truck. MM. You should read http://prevostcommunity.com/PDF/Motor%20Home%20Fuel%20economy.pdf max speed up hill is determined by weight/hp torque is not a factor for steady state velocity up hill GETTING to max velocity is determined by how fast you accelerate For the same mass the more Torque the faster you will accelerate (F=MA) So torque will get you to accelerate faster around a slow moving truck. But the max velocity up hill is still only governed only by weight/hp as you are not accelerating so torque is not an issue. How fast you accelerate to that max velocity up hill is a function of torque and weight. I am sure you will love your new toy. How exactly does torque figure into the F=MA formula? Torque is neither mass nor acceleration by itself. To convert Torque to force, you have to divide by the length of the arm (or factor in the gear ratios). Just to keep the math simple, lets assume: - Diesel with 600ft-lbs torque at 1500rpm - Gas Engine with 300-ft-lbs torque at 3000rpm. - The gas engine is run at half (or is it twice) the gear ratio of the diesel, so the steady state speed is the same. - Assume the engine torque for the diesel directly translates to the torque at the wheel and the wheel has a radius of 1 ft (no it's not realistic gearing but keeps the math simple) The diesel has 600ft-lbs of torque at the wheel and when you accound for the length of the moment arm (1ft), it provides 600lbs of force pushing the rig forward. The gas engine is only putting out 300ft-lbs of torque but the gearing doubles that at the wheels, resulting in 600ft-lbs at the wheel, which provides exactly the same 600lbs of force pushing the rig forward. So for a given HP output (torque X rpm), F=MA turns out to be the same for both engines.
valhalla360 07/23/14 07:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Are large gas motor Rv's underpower?

" a gas engine should be good for 200-250k miles and odds are the rig will be old and falling apart long before the engine gets worn out. " True and a mid-high level DP will be at mid life and the house will not be falling apart. In many ways it gets down to how long you'll keep the rig. I'm at 10 years and see no reason why I'll not have it in another 10 years. My cost to own for 20 years will be less than someone who buys and then trades two times on lessor MHs. How many miles do you put on the rig per year? If you are putting 20-30k miles/year on, you might have a claim. I'd be willing to bet the vast majority of MH's (at least from looking at used ones), are well under 10k miles/year, so in your example the engine still has over 10yrs of life in it. So your hypothetical 20yr lifespan in a quality unit (even most of the lower & mid level units will hold up that long with decent maintenance), works just fine with a gas engine. The biggest difference is they guys who pay big bucks for a MH don't care about the up charge for the diesel,so you rarely see them with the very viable gas engines because it's a status symbol to get the diesel, so much so that it's not worth it to the manufacturer to design for a gas engine. It's a marketing issue not an issue with gas engines.
valhalla360 07/23/14 06:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Are large gas motor Rv's underpower?

Diesels are preferred at altitudes >10,000'. Because of the turbocharger/blower. -Tom, W3TLN This along with an exhaust brake is the significant difference. If you will spend a lot of miles in the mountains, it can be justification. Torque only determines if you get up the hill and that is torque at the wheels. A lower gear will provide more torque, so as long as the engine isn't grossly underpowered, torque is a non-issue. How fast you can go up the hill is mostly about HP. The only catch is people get nervouse running a gas engine at high RPM in a torque producing lower gear. Assuming the engine is in good running order, it won't hurt the engine. Unless you are a carney putting 50-100k miles/yr, long term durability of a diesel is a red herring (even then it's probably overstated with newer diesels being much more complicated). With proper care, a gas engine should be good for 200-250k miles and odds are the rig will be old and falling apart long before the engine gets worn out.
valhalla360 07/22/14 10:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 10 year rule

If you buy a piece of junk that looks like a piece of junk, the 10yr rule might come into play. If your rig is in nice condition, they will "forget" to ask the age.
valhalla360 07/22/14 06:39am General RVing Issues
RE: Advice needed: how to keep a rig cooler...

Some more ideas: - if you know it will be a hot day, get her real cold first thing in the morning. It often will hold a temperature once there but have a hard time dropping the temp. - If you won't be using the front sleeping area, close the door and the vent so it's cooling the critical living space but in the evening when the sun goes down, open it back up so it will cool the sleeping space.
valhalla360 07/22/14 06:37am Fifth-Wheels
RE: full timing smells

Basicaly, the system normally relies on being outside where an odor vented 11' up, gets dispersed quickly before it's paticularly noticable. You on the other hand have trapped it in an enclosed space. If you don't want to punch a hole thru the roof or add powered vent, simply plan on pulling the valve when you are about to leave. By the time you return in a few hours, the odor should have dissipated and you can close the valve.
valhalla360 07/22/14 06:32am Full-time RVing
RE: How durable/reliable are slideouts?

You are among a small group of people that have a specialized need, and that's fair enough. Hmmmmm??? Over on the Class C forum there is a lot of conversation about short Class C (26 feet and less) motorhomes and the growing demand for them. Many, many of the owners do not have or want slides in them. They like the short length, the width that doesn't grow when you park in intimate older style County/State/Federal campgrounds with narrow/overgrown campsites, the full usability for quick lunch/rest/bathroom stops w/o having to extend a slide, and the improved fuel mileage due to the lighter slideless weights. One of highest quality Class C motorhomes you can buy is made by an old well-known and well-respected company - Lazy Daze - and the company will not build a Class C motorhome with a slide. I can guess the reasons why. There is indeed a large slideless RV community out there and I expect that they are buying/selling countless new and used slideless motorhomes within that like-minded RV community. When you get really small, there are non-slide units around. I doubt you could realistically call it "large". Of course, having a slide does not preclude using the RV with the slide in. We have a big slide with the dinet and couch that goes out 42". With it in we lose access to a pantry cupboard. Otherwise, we are fine to use it with the slide in with good access to kitchen, bathroom and bedroom. If that is a concern, you just have to check out the model with the slides in to see how it will function.
valhalla360 07/22/14 06:26am General RVing Issues
RE: How durable/reliable are slideouts?

Go down to any RV dealer and wander around. You will be hard pressed to find a unit over 25' without slides unless it was a special order. They are that valuable in terms of creating more space inside. A non-slide unit will take a big hit in terms of resale value for the same reason. Any mechanical system needs maintenance but unless you abuse it, reliability shouldn't be a major concern. If you camp regularly in -30f, you might be able to make a case but for normal use, it's not an issue. We've been down to -5f, in ours (unseasonably cold snap when it should have been in the 50's). The furnace kept up though we did go thru propane quickly.
valhalla360 07/21/14 06:31am General RVing Issues
RE: What's the comfortable weight limit

I'll give you 50/50 odds, your current trailer is over the limits (by the book). Figure 20% of 10,000lbs plus the wife, 2 kids, a tank of gas and misc toys in the truck bed, I'm betting you are right around or a bit over 2500lbs. There is likely enough fluff in the ratings that the suspension feels fine and the cummins has plenty of grunt to move it nicely, so to outward appearances it seems fine (and there are lots of folks exceeding the by the book ratings). I won't comment on if exceeding the ratings by a small amount is OK or not.
valhalla360 07/21/14 06:25am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Mirrors in high winds

If you can make 60mph going into a 45mph headwind towing, that by itself is impressive. If they are like mine where they pull out for towing, you probably just exceeded the design.
valhalla360 07/21/14 06:16am Class C Motorhomes
RE: How durable/reliable are slideouts?

Ours is 17yrs old and while I've never used it, there is a hole for a hand crank (now where the hand crank is...)
valhalla360 07/19/14 06:21am General RVing Issues
RE: Mile High Campground Cherokee, NC (Pics)

Not what I was thinking ;) And the mile high overlook isn't a mile high.
valhalla360 07/19/14 06:18am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Shopping for first RV...need guidance

I like the toy hauler idea but be careful running with the garage empty. They are designed to have the toys balance much of the weight in front of the axles. If you run empty, the tounge weight can be much higher than listed.
valhalla360 07/19/14 06:12am Fifth-Wheels
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