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 > Your search for posts made by 'valhalla360' found 537 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: can I tow this 5th wheel?

Those numbers sound high for a 28' but if accurate then NO you should not be pulling it with an F-250. Yes you can, it will hook up but it will get downright scary. Brakes, tires, suspension and the 5.4 will not be up to the task. That was my thought. Our 28'er is only aroun 9.5k loaded. I would double check the sticker. The V8 may not race up hills but as long as you are below the 11.5k tow rating, it should be OK.
valhalla360 12/21/14 06:24am Towing
RE: Toll Road Speed Limit

Assuming they provide a little margin for error (most speed cameras won't issue a ticket for 2-3mph over), this is actually a much more reasonable approach. If you get caught doing 8mph over by a camera, it could have been accidentally picking up a little speed on a down hill or some other short term issue that you quickly correct. If you average 8mph over on a 100mile trip...you have no excuse. It's pretty hard to argue with the time stamps. Also depending on the state, toll road authorities often have police authority.
valhalla360 12/21/14 06:19am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Truck Dually Wheels

Please remember that as far as maneuverability goes, it is usually NOT the dual rear wheels that makes the difference. LENGTH of the vehicle is the real problem, and this exists for both single and dual rear wheel vehicles. Considering most pickups sold today are crew cab versions of some sort, adding in either short or long box onto that makes for a long vehicle, irregardless, as I said, to dual or single wheels in back. And it is usually this length that makes it tough to turn into parking places. Not suggesting a SRW is easy to squeeze into a small parking spot... I hear this comment frequently but the number of dually fenders that have been hit suggests the width is an issue. I also see dually's with the fender dings. The question I get is where are they dinging them??? The circumstances. As far as parking, maneuvering mine, length has always been the biggest problem, as the turning radius of the vehicle itself presents the problem. I tend to believe it is parking. Once going down the road, if the mirrors and the RV fit thru, the duallies have to fit. It's when you are manuvering in parking lots where the mirrors and the duallies may not track thru the same radii. It's not a bad thing to get a dually but as long as you are within the approved weight ratings, there is no need to spend the extra money.
valhalla360 12/19/14 02:47pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Truck Dually Wheels

Please remember that as far as maneuverability goes, it is usually NOT the dual rear wheels that makes the difference. LENGTH of the vehicle is the real problem, and this exists for both single and dual rear wheel vehicles. Considering most pickups sold today are crew cab versions of some sort, adding in either short or long box onto that makes for a long vehicle, irregardless, as I said, to dual or single wheels in back. And it is usually this length that makes it tough to turn into parking places. Not suggesting a SRW is easy to squeeze into a small parking spot... I hear this comment frequently but the number of dually fenders that have been hit suggests the width is an issue.
valhalla360 12/19/14 07:25am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Truck Dually Wheels

If you are within the weight limits and don't expect to buy a bigger trailer in the near future, the SRW is a nice option and will save you some money with little downside. If the SRW will be over the weight limits, go with a dually.
valhalla360 12/18/14 12:17pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Utility trailer conversion to an RV trailer!!

Google portable air conditioner. There are lots like that one. The one nice thing is the roof doesn't look like it has a lot of holes that are prone to leaking.
valhalla360 12/18/14 12:10pm General RVing Issues
RE: Utility trailer conversion to an RV trailer!!

I've seen similar ones at RV shows. Seems like a decent alternative to a popup if the price is similar and you only need to sleep 2. The ones I've seen could be stripped out or stuff moved around so it worked as a kind of mini-toy hauler. Unless, I had a particular use for it, I would just go with a standard travel trailer of similar size.
valhalla360 12/18/14 08:47am General RVing Issues
RE: The death of a motorhome

After a year of not using ours, for a variety of reasons, we decided we were done. It was a 2002, so it had a couple of slides and was still in decent condition, with only 18,000 miles from new. We decided to sell through a consignment dealer, who initially valued it at $28,500 and said he was confident they could get $25,000 for it. After 3 months of zero activity, we finally got a bid of $14,000. I told them to stick it where the sun don't shine and they unilaterally abrogated the contract. We were very anxious to sell, so we renegotiated and the offer was upgraded to $15,800, still $5000 below NADA wholesale and over $8000 less than their minimum estimate. We were so sick of messing about and so anxious to sell, we agreed. When I signed over the title, the dealer rep very carefully tried to hide the tear-off "Seller's Report of Sale" that is part of a Washington State title. They seemed ticked off when I unfolded it and took it with me. I realised, when I went to file the report, that there was no definition of the buyer. When I called, the dealer said, "Oh just put our name on it". As a result, I legally sold my rig to the dealer for $8000 below wholesale. I think I got ripped off. I've alerted the State Vehicle Fraud people to keep an eye open. Maybe the dealer will get his just come-uppance, but I'm not holding my breath. If the State finds a much higher resale price than the supposed "offer", I may have some redress. Bottom line is "Beware of consignment dealers. Make sure the contract is well balanced". We'd had a couple of favorable reports on the dealer we chose from people we know who have dealt with them, but they sure didn't live up to the recommendations. Are you suggesting he steered buyers away so he could get a deal on it? I'm a bit confused that you didn't even ask who was buying it until after the sale? Assuming there is no evidence he steered people away from it, you were offered a price and you accepted. Whether that price came from an individual or the dealer, doesn't make much difference.
valhalla360 12/18/14 08:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: The death of a motorhome

I can be a variety of things: - Money is too short to take it out on trips and maintain it but they owe more than it's worth so if they sell, they need to come up with money to pay the rest of the loan (ie: similar to houses that are underwater) - Especially with the big expensive diesel pushers, it was probably thier dream to hit the open road some day, footloose and fancy free...then reality set in and they found they were scared to drive it or just didn't like the lifestyle but they had invested so much of thier emotion into it they can't bring themselves to sell because that would require them to admit thier dream has failed. It's especially bad for the expensive units because it's usually older folks who can afford them and they are prone to age related issues limiting them both in where they can travel to and how much maintenance they can do themselves. - Too many toys: For most these are toys and people often don't consider toys from a financial perspective. I know working age couples with an RV, Boat, Timeshare and they like to entertain at thier home...there simply isn't enough vacation time to utilize all of them, so something is going to sit. When the time comes to sell a toy, the best bet is to pull the bandaide. Expect to lose money but at least you aren't slowly bleeding it away with storage and rotting of the unit.
valhalla360 12/18/14 08:36am Class A Motorhomes
RE: hello. im new here. I have a sailboat....

Ahhh....I knew there were a bunch of transformed boaters on this forum. We loved our 1990 Bayliner 3888. At almost 40' with small twin diesels we had always planned to retire and full time on it. Extended trips on the Great Lakes were wonderful, but expensive. Averaging about 2mpg (which is really good) and filling up twin 150 gallon tanks could run us as high as $1,200.00 at a pop. I suppose that is why I don't worry about pulling my fiver on windy days and only getting 8 or 9mpg. When we started traveling longer distances in the boat we swapped the big twin engine power boat for a sail boat. We now get around 6mpg depending on how hard we push. But the bigger difference is the distances we cover. - A long days travel in the boat is 50miles and we usually keep it down around 20-30miles. - A short day with the RV is maybe 100 miles with 150-200miles more typical. - When you calcualte the fuel used, we find it's about the same since RV stops tend to be more spaced out (yes, you could cut them down but we find we don't)
valhalla360 12/18/14 08:19am Beginning RVing
RE: hello. im new here. I have a sailboat....

We flip back and forth. As others have said, it's really very similar. Assuming you are comfortable already living in small spaces there isn't much to it. Personally we went with the truck and trailer approach as it's one less drivetrain to maintain but there is nothing inherently wrong with a motorhome if you can get a good deal.
valhalla360 12/17/14 02:57pm Beginning RVing
RE: How hard are these RVs to drive?

Out on the road, not much difference driving any of them. Go slow, give yourself plenty of room to break and take turns a bit wide. Backing either in isn't that big of a deal once you get the hang of it. Plan on using a spotter and it should be fine.
valhalla360 12/17/14 02:52pm Beginning RVing
RE: gas milage..

I started looking at diesel, but quit because they are hard to find, and when you do, they are much more expensive. I am looking at RVs from the 1990s to early 2000s. At some point along this line, they went fuel injected? Or by the 90s were the already fuel injected... Also, new engines now have the spark coils for each plug rather than one coil and distributor. Then, I have been seeing RVs with "lite" in the name. Is this referring to fuel economy? Is there such little difference, that I shouldn't consider mpg? Or is this a significant feature to alter my purchase decision? groundhogy Diesels have been injected as far back as I'm aware of. The reason to buy a diesel is you are towing very heavy loads. Unless you are towing 40,000+ miles per year, no way you will pay for the diesel in fuel savings (with the current prices, you don't save anything) Did you switch over to gas engines halfway thru? No diesel has coils or plugs. Lite is a marketing term more than anything. Many "Lite" RV's aren't paticulalarly lite and even the when they are, it's wind resistance that really kills the MPG. As others have said figure 8-10mpg or expect to be disapointed.
valhalla360 12/17/14 02:49pm Beginning RVing
RE: Black Tank Treatment - taken off the market . . . .

Hehehe, here we go with another 'poop' discussion. THis subject always gets lots of attention. :) To those that swear that water only is all you ever need, and you've never had any odors: All I can say is when it comes time to dump tanks, you are living in serious denial if you think no odors come out, then. That, or you must wear a gas mask when dumping. When you dump the tanks, I don't care what kind of hose, fittings, etc. you use, nor how you do it. There WILL be some air, 'gases' that get out. Nothing you can do about it, really, except put something in your tank to control those odors. If you don't use chemicals (or something else to control odors), it WILL stink, and stink REALLY bad in some cases when dumping. Anyone that says otherwise, like I said, is living in denial or wears a gas mask. :) If for no other reason, this is why you should use something to control the odors - Out of respect for those around you when you are dumping your tanks. If you always dump out in the boonies when nobody is around but you, and you don't mind the smell, then I guess it doesn't matter. I'm betting, though, that is not the case for most of us. Also, just once, have a sewer hose pop loose from a connection while dumping, and have it spew some 'waste' out (something that happens to all of us at least once)....You will learn very quickly why its wise to have something in place, to control odors just in case. ;) It is true, that while the 'waste' is in the tank, IF everything is working properly, odors should rarely get out, chemicals or not. However, when you dump the tanks, its an entirely different story and all bets are off. That is why we use chemicals (Odorlos). While making a deposit, I may clear out the RV but that has nothing to do with the system and chemicals won't solve that issue anyway. Unless you open the toilet valve and stick your nose down close to take a good wiff, there should be no significant odor unless something is broken or clogged. I can honestly say when dumping, there is rarely any odor at all. Again, I dont' get down on my hands and knees and take a nice deep breath right at the hole but doing the normal process, it just isn't an issue. If a hose breakes free and you have 30-40gallons of sewage flying about...having some chemical perfumes is not going to be good enough that I can just get in the truck, to our next destination and take a shower next morning. There is going to be a shower and fresh clothes at a minimum and no one is going to walk away happy...perfumed poo or not.
valhalla360 12/17/14 10:28am General RVing Issues
RE: Lake Michigan campsites

Check out the Michigan State Parks.
valhalla360 12/17/14 07:53am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Black Tank Treatment - taken off the market . . . .

Another vote for Happy Camper. No odors, everything is digested before the dump. To get that kind of a result with water alone, you'd have to use a lot more water and dump more frequently. I'm lazy - dumping once a week is enough. al Odd, I'm also lazy dumping about once a week and just use water. No odor issues. I don't know if it's digested (I try not to sample it) but a black tank is a storage system not a treatment system, so as long as it flows down the drain, I don't really care.
valhalla360 12/15/14 03:20pm General RVing Issues
RE: My idea for a Satellite stand with leveler

I just cut a 2x4 stud into 3 pieces. 2 parallel with the 3rd screwed down crossing between and the mounting bracket arm lag bolted to the 3rd. If I need leveling, shove a stick or a stone under the low side.
valhalla360 12/15/14 03:17pm Technology Corner
RE: Slide Out Toppers

fj12ryder, The roller is on the outer edge of the slideout. It rolls up the canvas as the slideout moves in. Most material that is laying on the canvas will fall over the edge as it rolls up. Well, that is how it works for most folks, but I had to be a bigshot and get the Carefree SideOut Kover III with the optional cover to protect the fabric. I later found out that that was not for customers where there are trees. The cover creates a "leaf and pine needle motel" they check in, but they don't checkout. So, I still get to travel with a ladder and brush them off before closing. http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j345/mooger42/slidetopper_zps1d6e0803.jpg While it's good to know, I will avoid your style topper, I believe he was refering to a previous comment that said a particular brand doesn't need toppers at all because they somehow automatically clear any debris. I would be curious also.
valhalla360 12/15/14 03:14pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Converter charging vehicle battery

Before you plug in, take a multi-meter and check the voltage at the battery terminals. Plug in and check again. If it goes up, it is charging. The only iffy part is if fully charged the converter may not put out any power and you won't see the voltage jump (turn on a few 12v lights and it should push the converter to come on)
valhalla360 12/14/14 03:19am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Asking Dealer to drive half way.

If it's a done deal and the dealer will be paid before leaving the lot, I'm sure it can be done but you likely pay a heck of a lot for it. If it's just to kick the tires, not much chance they will bother.
valhalla360 12/12/14 05:23am Truck Campers
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