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 > Your search for posts made by 'valhalla360' found 430 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Busted Leaf Spring

Up sizing (not upgrading) by a little is probably fine. The problem if you up size drastically, is it will be like an empty 1 ton. The springs are supposed to give as you hit a bump. If you up size a lot, it will beat the trailer up. Keep in mind when people say it rides fine...are they riding in the trailer?
valhalla360 08/18/16 06:52am Travel Trailers
RE: Hughes Autoformer

I believe these are very good devices to have and use but are horribly overpriced. IMO there is nothing in that gizmo that rates it costing $580. JMO Very simple. Start producing a $200 unit and undercut them. You'll get rich. We picked up a used 30amp unit over the winter as one park friends like has had voltage down to 98v. This year we haven't seen lower than 114v.
valhalla360 08/18/16 06:48am General RVing Issues
RE: Why do you prefer your rig?

For heavy duty off roading, a TC really isn't that great an option. Even if you pull the camper off, a 3/4 or 1 ton doesn't make a great off road vehicle. Pulling a jeep or similar makes more sense.
valhalla360 08/18/16 06:35am General RVing Issues
RE: Why do you prefer your rig?

When we get around to driving the Pan-American highway, it will likely be a truck camper. As others have mentioned, size is the major drawback with the need for a heavier duty truck a secondary drawback. The reasons to get one is it provides a specific advantage. The most common: - Off road/remote camping. Dedicated 4x4 motorhomes are tremendously expensive and most trailers will get torn up going down bad trails. A truck camper can get you into a 4x4 rig at a more reasonable cost (of course if you go top of the line big as you can, it's not that cheap). - Some people prefer them if you want to tow something other than the RV (say a boat, quads, etc...) but a lot of motorhomes will tow just fine and toy haulers will handle motorcycles, quads or golf carts, so this is fading as an advantage. There's your basic reason why they have always been a niche part of the RV market.
valhalla360 08/17/16 08:34am General RVing Issues
RE: Best choice? Small Generator vs Solar Setup -> weekend camp

Hi Hunter, This is the best type of adapter to use. http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE3-8959006enh-z7.jpg width=350 If I go down the road of batteries/inverter, does anyone know of an adapter to plug my shore cord into the inverter unit? The only inverters that I found have the standard 110 plug-in outlet style, nothing that accepts the the 5th wheel shore cord. Just remember, if you use this, you need to be able to disconnect the battery charger (aka: converter). If you don't your battery will power the inverter, which will draw it down which will cause you battery charger, to use inverter power to charge your battery...and so on. The problem is there are significant inefficiencies, that will quickly wear your battery down.
valhalla360 08/16/16 02:06pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Best choice? Small Generator vs Solar Setup -> weekend camp

You have made it too simple. He has no inverter. Running the generator to watch TV is wasteful in the extreme. Keep it simple: Take the 7000w generator and just run it for an hour or so each day to charge the batteries. (make your coffee and do any other high draw electrical stuff at the same time) Depending on how many lights and how long you watch TV, you may need a second deep cycle battery wired in but probably not. That should keep your weekend usage to maybe 1 gallon. You already have the generator so minimal upgrade cost. My bad. I missed that he didn't have an inverter. Any option that doesn't involve several hours of generator run time is going to call for an inverter to run the TV or other AC loads (that means a solar setup will still need to incorporate an inverter). Even with a small 2000w generator, it's pretty wasteful to power a 50w TV. Of course, a small inverter to run the TV is cheap and easy. We have a $30 one that plugs into a cigarette lighter that runs the TV just fine and there is one right next to the TV. Then again if it's only an hour or two of TV, time the generator charging the batteries to line up with TV watching.
valhalla360 08/16/16 12:28pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Why doesn't the math work?

It's no different from a lot of marketing. Technically, it is 1/2 ton towable...if you get the maximum rated 1/2 ton with no additional weight and you only take the trailer with no additional weight, you can stay within the ratings. Take a change of underwear...and it gets iffy. As you can see from responses here, some people happily come up with reasons to exceed the ratings. Some valid...some not so much. If you choose to stay within the ratings, you have to look at each rating individually and determine that you are within it. If you are over the GVWR, it doesn't matter that you added no weight to the front axle and you are under the rear axle rating. You are still over the GVWR and there are consideration beyond the individual axle rating. I'll let you decide if you should try to stay within the ratings. If you keep asking, someone will tell you, you can pull anything. If it's a hundred pounds over, I probably wouldn't worry too much. If it's over by a 1000lbs, it's probably pretty questionable.
valhalla360 08/16/16 12:19pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Best choice? Small Generator vs Solar Setup -> weekend camp

Keep it simple: Take the 7000w generator and just run it for an hour or so each day to charge the batteries. (make your coffee and do any other high draw electrical stuff at the same time) Depending on how many lights and how long you watch TV, you may need a second deep cycle battery wired in but probably not. That should keep your weekend usage to maybe 1 gallon. You already have the generator so minimal upgrade cost.
valhalla360 08/16/16 12:01pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Toilet Ball Seal -- Winter Care?

Always just dumped a little pink stuff in it. Never had an issue.
valhalla360 08/16/16 08:34am General RVing Issues
RE: Letting Logging Trucks Pass

Pet peeve: Following slower drivers who speed up 25mph in the right lane when they enter a "passing lane" zone.. A pet peeve of mine also but understand, it's actually very logical. I set speed limits as part of my job. The sign does almost nothing in terms of affecting actual speeds. Drivers on average drive what they are comfortable driving. Ironically, when you get to passing zones or passing lanes, it's comfortable to go a bit faster because the road tends to be straight and wide open, so unconsciously they do tend to pick up a little speed (25mph is a bit of an exaggeration). I'm usually aware of the issue but when distracted, I've caught myself doing it. No real solution other than if you are the slow guy, make an effort to maintain a steady speed when you come to a passing zone or passing lane. If it's a passing lane, you may even consider slowing down slightly (not a lot), to help clear out a line of cars behind you. I wouldn't recommend pulling over or slowing way down as that can create other safety issues.
valhalla360 08/16/16 08:32am General RVing Issues
RE: Need step by step help de-winterizing

Dewinterizing is the easy part. Once the water stops coming out pink, you have dewinterized. Best to run all the faucets at once but no real danger if you get a hint of the antifreeze in the water (it's non-toxic but doesn't taste very good). Only complication is they may have emptied the hot water tank and set the valves to by pass (which is commonly done rather than filling it with 6gallons of antifreeze). If you aren't going to use the hot water you don't even have to change anything (make sure not to turn the hot water on if the hot water tank is empty as it can burn out the heater). Winterizing is the more complicated but even that isn't bad. You just need to make sure you didn't forget anyplace with water in it.
valhalla360 08/15/16 07:56am Travel Trailers
RE: Slide topper is dry rotted and needs to be replaced

We did it a couple years ago. Got new material from an online place. Took about 1/2 hr with 2 of us and 2 ladders. If we had it to do again, it would probably take 15min. It's pretty simple.
valhalla360 08/15/16 07:51am Travel Trailers
RE: Decal repair

For all practical purposes...NO. The problem is there is no good way to clean the old glue off and get the new glue on. Also, the plastic has probably become brittle, so it is likely to crack and fail quickly. Replacement is the typical response as a result.
valhalla360 08/15/16 05:19am Hybrid Travel Trailers
RE: RV Quality

I think the real problem is reading the forums, you see the problems (no one posts about the stuff that works fine for years, even decades). We have a 1997 that we bought in 2009 and have put around 35k miles on it, using it full time for months at a time. Maintenance and repairs have averaged maybe $500 per year (most being maintenance). Everything still works fine and no reason it won't be perfectly functional for another decade. Could some things be done better...sure but the idea that they are selling complete junk is simply false.
valhalla360 08/12/16 05:51am General RVing Issues
RE: F150 vs 250

If you get a diesel in the super duty you can have your cake and eat it too as it relates to both towing ability and fuel economy. If you can live with a lower trim level it probably wouldn't cost any more or even as much as the gasser Lariat. Just food for thought. Of course, it's going to take a very long time for you to gain back the upfront cost of the diesel upgrade in fuel cost savings. Unless you are 2-3 times the average milage per year, we are talking decades. If you do minimal towing and the 1/2ton is within weight ratings, it should be fine. The more towing you do, the more the 3/4ton makes sense. The point where you transition is a judgment call. It isn't decades for most people, and you're also ignoring the substantially better resale value you get with diesel. The funny thing about upgrading to a diesel engine is it actually does make financial sense or at the minimum it's a breakeven proposition, plus you get a much better towing experience while you own the truck. OP is looking at Lariat trucks. The extra expense with that is money down the drain that will never come back, but nobody is questioning it. Funny how that works. Oddly, we didn't find much difference in resale values once you get to 8-10yrs old when we bought a 2003 a few years back and with diesel typically a bit higher per gallon, most of the savings goes out. Yeah, the lariat gorp is largely a waste but two wrongs don't make a right. The reason to get a diesel is because you do a lot of heavy towing. Fuel economy takes a massive number of miles to pay off the engine upgrade.
valhalla360 08/10/16 11:13am Tow Vehicles
RE: Climbing in the Rockies

with the newer trucks with tow/haul mode, the truck can probably control the drivetrain better than you can. Now if it starts hunting for gears or you aren't getting any exhaust braking effect, that's when you might want to take a manual hand in the operations. (Read the manual before hand so you don't make things worse)
valhalla360 08/10/16 08:24am Towing
RE: F150 vs 250

If you get a diesel in the super duty you can have your cake and eat it too as it relates to both towing ability and fuel economy. If you can live with a lower trim level it probably wouldn't cost any more or even as much as the gasser Lariat. Just food for thought. Of course, it's going to take a very long time for you to gain back the upfront cost of the diesel upgrade in fuel cost savings. Unless you are 2-3 times the average milage per year, we are talking decades. If you do minimal towing and the 1/2ton is within weight ratings, it should be fine. The more towing you do, the more the 3/4ton makes sense. The point where you transition is a judgment call.
valhalla360 08/10/16 08:20am Tow Vehicles
RE: Single A/C on 30 amp

30amp is standard for a trailer with a single air/con. As others have said, if you want to run other high draw items (electric water heater, microwave, electric fry pan, etc...), you may push what the 30amp can deliver. Running the fridge, TV, some lights....shouldn't be an issue.
valhalla360 08/10/16 07:50am Travel Trailers
RE: Newbie: Winter Wisconsin camping without Polar/Arctic/etc

For a week or two at hunting camp, if you accept no water system, just about any trailer will do fine down to the teens (yeah, you may go thru quite a bit of propane if it's down in the teens). Just winterize the water system and leave it alone. (I prefer the pink antifreeze as it's easy for a bit of water to sit in a low spot waiting to freeze later). The other stuff comes up if you plan to spend the winter in the rig. At that point, living without a water system is a much bigger issue. Yes, a lot of it is marketing. Look for features not an arctic rating (underbelly insulation, heated underbelly, heated waste tanks, double pane windows, etc...). You mention generator. I would be careful with that. If you run out of fuel in the middle of the night and you are using the water system, things could freeze up before you wake up.
valhalla360 08/10/16 06:45am Travel Trailers
RE: 300 days at sea

This isn't a new idea. Several people have done similar stunts (and it really is just a stunt). We get real antsy after just 2-3 days on the boat. I can see making a passage to get somewhere but to just sit out on the boat for months on end...no thanks.
valhalla360 08/09/16 09:28am General RVing Issues
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