RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'valhalla360' found 292 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 15  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: What size socket for power drill operation of stab jacks

Does it have the bolt head or the tube with the hole in the side? - Bolt head is usually 3/4inch. - Tube in the side was what we used to have and we got a larger allen wrench that would fit the drill and fit in the hole. That worked well till we replaced the stabilizers.
valhalla360 07/29/14 08:30am Tech Issues
RE: Grand Haven, MI in early September

Actually, if the air is warm and the winds haven't churned up cold water from deeper (both questionable), the water can be quite warm in September (relatively speaking). The problem is temps start swinging up and down in September so it's hard to say what you will get. It could easily be cool fall weather where you won't want to swim.
valhalla360 07/29/14 06:38am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: your opinion on appliance age

1997 including full time use and no problems. My dad's 1978 appliances are all still working.
valhalla360 07/28/14 08:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: I just paid $6.71 per gallon for diesel

Where are you at? RV'ing is hugely popular in Europe. We rented a small unit a couple years ago in Germany and every little town had a camper stop for visiting. We got over 30mpg on the trip. We also saw lots of RV's around in France on a seperate trip last year. The small diesel units often get 25-30mpg, so fuel costs aren't nearly as bad especially with the short distances involved.
valhalla360 07/28/14 11:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Big Time RV! on Travel Channel

We used to watch the travel channel all the time...when they actually showed travel shows. Now it's basically QVC for travel with paid sponsers from hotels and destinations. RV's are just the latest.
valhalla360 07/28/14 06:55am General RVing Issues
RE: Help choosing RV type - your advice needed

Basically, you've painted yourself into a corner. - Any large comfortable rig is going to be too large for driveway camping. - Any rig small enough for driveway camping is going to be rough with the dog and cello. My guess is you are underestimating the availability of campgrounds. It's rare to find an area without campgrounds. Even most big cities have some. If it were me, I would plan on staying in campgrounds most of the time. With that issue out of the way, your options open up a lot. $20k will still be an inexpensive used RV. Likely options: - Pickup with travel trailer - Pickup with 5th wheel - Larger class C If it were me, I would go with the pickup and TT/5er options. The pickup can get you around while leaving the trailer behind. Plus you only have 1 drivetrain to maintain (assuming you would get a toad for the class C) Do make sure to get at least a 3/4 or 1 ton truck as you propose a lot of towing. We just bought last year and paid $6k for an F250 that is in good running order. And we've had our 5er for 6yrs ($4k)with just standard maintenance, so $20k is doable but it will take some tire kicking to find a good combination.
valhalla360 07/28/14 06:53am Beginning RVing
RE: Campground pricing.

Hi kcmoedoe, For a 30 amp RV: .20 per kwh x 3.6 x 24 = $17.64 max. But it won't be that high because the RV is not drawing the max it can all the time. Also $0.20 per kwh is an extremely high rate. The wonder to me is why there is not a greater difference for a 50 amp site vs 30 amp. How much is the electric bill? Of course, that is per site. When we take your 200 site campground on a hot summer day, that translates to around $3500/day in electricity. Assuming a more realistic 50% use rate, that's $1750/day in electricity off the top. For a campground that size, you are probably looking at 5 people on staff for at least 14hrs per day. Assuming a modest $10/hr plus 2.5 overhead multiplyer, that's another $1750/day. Then you add in trash, property taxes, permits, pool maintenance, lawnmowers and trucks plus thier fuel and maintenance, etc and it's a losing proposition before you even get to the capital improvements. A 200 site campground is probably upwards of 50 acres, so assuming $10k/acre for undeveloped land, that's half a million before putting in roads, utilities, bath houses, pools, etc... You can easily be in the $2-3million range to build a campground of that size. Invested that should be throwing off $200-400k per year after expenses including labor or it it's probably better not to invest somewhere else. Then as mentioned, in most areas there are busy and slow periods. In the north, there can easily be 6months with zero income. Likewise a lot of snowbird destinations are nearly empty in the summer. If you run the numbers you will find $25/night campgrounds are usually short on space, amenities and not in the best location because they can't afford to be (the exception is if you are looking at long term rates). It's not that they are bad. Just don't expect luxury resort ammenities to come with cheap prices. While I don't feel sorry for them, I do understand they aren't making money hand over fist in your example.
valhalla360 07/28/14 06:40am General RVing Issues
RE: Campground pricing.

It varys wildly depending on where you stay, the type of campground you like and how long you stay in one site. If you can stay longer you can push that down into the $10-20 range if it's not an expenisive area. If you are staying a night at a time in popular areas, it can push up above $50/night. Crazy areas like the florida keys can push over $100/night for prime locations.
valhalla360 07/25/14 03:07pm General RVing Issues
RE: Water pump ponderance

I had that problem once. That's why I don't like the water pump to be too quiet. I want to know if it keeps running. Most likely the switch just needs to be adjusted. Another possibliity is if the battery is weak, it will keep pumping but not develop enough pressure to activate the switch.
valhalla360 07/25/14 02:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Quiet Water Pumps

Another vote for it's mostly about the mounting.
valhalla360 07/25/14 12:47pm General RVing Issues
RE: Using a Ceramic Heater

Don't let ceramic heaters take the place of your RV furnace when the temps get to ~ 35F and below...at 35F and below the RV furnace shoul be your main souce of heat and the cermaic heaters can be used to supplement the RV furnace...Why is that? Just curious, though we've hardly camped when the evening temps get that low, but you never know... Most furnace ducts run thru the underbelly and give off a little of thier heat to the water system which helps keep it from freezing. I would probably lower the critical temp to more like 30F as the heated interior will shed a few degrees worth of warmth by itself. If it goes below 20F, even the extra heat from the ducts gets questionable and you may want to look at supplemental heat for the water system or winterizing it.
valhalla360 07/24/14 09:31am General RVing Issues
RE: Using a Ceramic Heater

Unless you are running 2 heaters or other high wattage devices, there is no need to run a seperate cord in. I lean towards a ceramic heater with tip over protection (it shuts off if tipped). The oil based units will put out the same heat...once they heat up. The ceramic put out heat almost instantantly. Usually we use it to take the chill off in the morning and quick supply of heat helps. Side note: I suggest you poke your head under and inside the storage areas of your RV. Unless it's something special, no way is it sealed in such a way that it will keep mice and bugs out. There should be a duct or open space between the breaker panel and the cord door to get the 30amp cord to the breaker panel. If you really want a seperate cord, you should be able to follow that path without creating a new opening.
valhalla360 07/24/14 09:17am General RVing Issues
RE: Construction of trailers

utility trailers are different because they typically have few if any penatrations, so it's easy to lay out a sheet across the roof to get good coverage. It can certainly be done (my dad's 78' holiday rambler has an aluminum roof) but it still requires resealing all the joints on a regular basis. The average RV probably has 8-12 items thru the roof. It's a lot quicker to use a razor knife to cut out an opening in a rubber roof and that translates into money saved for the manufacturer.
valhalla360 07/24/14 06:47am Travel Trailers
RE: Noob generator question - how much?

Technically true but in the fuzzy world of generator ratings, the 3000w unit you suggest would never start the AC based on your 54amp requiremnt and most people aren't going to climb onto the roof and pull apart the AC to find the rating on the compressor. They will look in the manual or online spec and see the amp rating. Reality is there is peak and then there is peak (and there is peak also) and the manufactures don't like to share details. There is continous rated, peak rated for maybe 10 mintues, peak rated for 10 seconds, peak rated for 1 second, etc... (of course they don't simply put a table on the side of the box to make this simple). So simple rule of thumb that usualy works is if your generator is rated for 2-3 times the continous amps, it usually works (note I said usually and when people try to keep the cost and the weight down, they play on the edge and sometimes it doesn't work). It's not pretty and the manufacturers could provide much better info to simplify the process.
valhalla360 07/23/14 12:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Are large gas motor Rv's underpower?

Valhallo360, I had changed my post slightly before yours came up. The John Deere was digging itself into a whole while the steam engine tractor was pulling it. It was good video! MM. In that case traction was definetly the issue. Once the wheels start spinning, you aren't able to harness either the HP or the torque. The rear wheels on those old steam tractors probably literally weigh a ton each, let alone everything else built out of heavy solid metal pieces. A similar analogy would be to adapt the engine out of a big diesel pusher and put it into a smart car and put it up against a 1 ton pickup with the base gas engine. I can guarantee the pickup would hardly notice the smart car back there even though smart car would easily have more HP and torque. I think that you will find is that with a steam engine, the power is in the pressure in the boiler, which is already built up to the maximum, before the drive train is put in to motion. It is not like a gasoline or diesel engine that has to develop RPM's before it can start delivering power. As soon as the steam pressure is released to the piston, all of the power is there, even at 1 RPM. The same goes for certain electric motors, which is why they are used in heavy locomotives. The diesel engine in a train powers the generator which powers the electric drive motor that makes the train move. The full power of the electric motor is there to apply to the drive wheels, right from a standing start. It, like the steam engine, does not have to develop any RPM's to have the power to get a huge train in motion. That may or may not be the case. Steam engines also benefit from momentum which is why they often have large flywheels. In fact if the engine is only 1 or 2 cyclinder, at very low RPM, it may have almost no torque while the piston rod is in line with the crank shaft (or close to it). So it is similar to IC engines though to a lesser degree but once the JD tires start spinning, it doesn't matter how much HP or torque the engine can supply at the wheel, there is no traction so it can't harness the power and you can't determine which engine/transmission would win. Of course in terms of a MH climbing a mountain, if you run out of traction, you have other issues to worry about other than can you maintain 60mph.
valhalla360 07/23/14 11:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Travel Trailers with Aluminum Frames

I assume we are talking about the "frame" (big beams that run the length of the trailer do most of the structural support) vs the "framing" (studs that form the walls). Aluminum framing is quite common as an alternative to wood. Aluminum frames are far less common and typically only used in smaller trailers. The cost to use aluminum frames is a good deal more and much of the weight savings is eaten up by needing thicker beams as aluminimum is not as strong as steel. It is also harder to work with aluminimum. Welding requires special attention. A big concern is dis-similar metals. If you put steel and aluminimum in contact with each other (say where the suspension connects to the frame), if it gets damp and salty, the aluminimum will sacrafice itself to protect the steel and in the process rot away. It can definetly be addressed but if not done right can cause problems very quickly. Given the fact that it's nothing for a steel frame on a trailer to be perfectly fine other than some surface rust 25-30yrs on, I wouldn't count on aluminimum to be an advantage in terms of corrosion. For similar size trailers, I wouldn't count on much MPG advantage since the bulk of the fuel economy issue at highway speeds is wind resistance.
valhalla360 07/23/14 09:36am Travel Trailers
RE: Noob generator question - how much?

Just to clarify, most of the generators mentioned are inverter generators. The cheap lawnmower generators are generally disliked as they are annoyingly loud. Also the quality of the power can be questionable if you are trying to run electonics off them. The name brand inverter generators provide much cleaner power and are drastically quieter. Starting the AC is about having enough watts/amps to start the compressor. While the AC may be rated at say 12 amps while running, you probably need more like 25-30amps to actually get it started. This is where the answer gets fuzzy. - At high altitudes, the generator motor is putting out less power due to thin air. - Some AC units have a hard start capacitor which stores up a small burst of energy to help get the compressor going. - Some have set up the fan to come on seperately so the generator isn't trying to start both the compressor and fan at the same time (compressor has a much higher draw) - Starting amperage is not typically defined and seems to vary from compressor to compressor for the exact same model so what works for one may not work for another. It also varys between a warm and cold motor. Usually if it will start the compressor the first time, the AC compressor will cycle back on just fine. - The wattage you see on the generator is typically peak wattage. Divide by 120V to get peak amperage. Some generators will exceed this momentarily others won't. It's generally not clearly stated by the manufacturer. A 2500watt inverter generator is a nice compromise and probably will run your AC. We have a 2400watt Yamaha that does fine. Once started, we can run TV, fans and other minor loads with the AC running. Ours it probably at the upper end of what we would consider portabile for 1 person (70lbs). This is where the paired 2000watt units come into play. They are definetly portable for 1 person and paired up, have plenty of power. The trade off is significant additional cost to purchase.
valhalla360 07/23/14 09:26am Tech Issues
RE: Trans cooling

On the freeway, does it lock into overdrive? I'm not sure about the paticulars of your truck but once the torque converter locks up, the heat generated by pumping transmission fluid drops dramatically as it's no longer being asked to transfer power between the engine and transmission. In city driving, the fluid is doing most of the energy transfer and that generates heat especially if you do a lot of hard acceleration. Secondarily, in city driving less air is passing over the trans cooler due to slower speeds. This is why you get a counter intuitive temperature reading with lower temps when you are putting out more power on the freeway.
valhalla360 07/23/14 09:11am Tow Vehicles
RE: Are large gas motor Rv's underpower?

Valhallo360, I had changed my post slightly before yours came up. The John Deere was digging itself into a whole while the steam engine tractor was pulling it. It was good video! MM. In that case traction was definetly the issue. Once the wheels start spinning, you aren't able to harness either the HP or the torque. The rear wheels on those old steam tractors probably literally weigh a ton each, let alone everything else built out of heavy solid metal pieces. A similar analogy would be to adapt the engine out of a big diesel pusher and put it into a smart car and put it up against a 1 ton pickup with the base gas engine. I can guarantee the pickup would hardly notice the smart car back there even though smart car would easily have more HP and torque.
valhalla360 07/23/14 09:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Are large gas motor Rv's underpower?

I designed engines for 35 years. It is about horsepower and weight of the Motorhome. NOT TORQUE!! Except the more torque means more horsepower. So if a gas MH has a good horsepower to weight ratio it will do just fine. Mr. Silverback, I'm certainly not questioning your advice because you probably have forgotten more than I'll ever know about engines. But, you are the first person I've seen that says 'not torque' is not a major component to power an engine. All the diesel converstaion I've read about engines is torque, torque, torque. For instance, on the new motorhome that we have ordered, the engine has been replaced from a Detroit with 515 hp and 1,650 lb. ft. of torque to a Volvo 500 hp with 1,750 lb. ft. of torque. The Prevost guys say that I should be able to tell a difference on the increase ability to climb steep hills. That's what they are telling me if I understood them correctly. MM. Torque at the rear wheels, which is all that really matters, is a function of gearing, which is why a hand held 1" air ratchet can produce 2000+ foot pounds of torque in a truck shop. Plenty of torque with the air ratchet but it won't get you up a hill very fast. :B Then you talked to a salesman and there is the old adage about if his mouth was moving he was lying. Honestly, I don't know what that means about the air ratchet compared to a diesel engine. The info I got is from the Prevost sight where all the gear-heads hang out, they are not salesman but very intelligent folks (apparently, they have me fooled) LOL! MM. What it means is to ask about the gear ratio on the different rigs. Same engine and same amount of engine torque can climb hills much differently depending on the rear axle ratio. If one coach is geared for mountains and the other is geared for top speed, the engine can be the same and the one that is geared for the mountains will beat the other to the top every time. One axle ratio can give you much better mileage and another gear ratio can give you much better hill climbing ability, all with the same engine horsepower and torque. The axle ratio changes the amount of power that is available at the rear wheels. Rgatijnet1, yes, I understand what you are saying about the gear ratio. I've never seen it as an option on any coach, but I could be wrong. I saw a video of a new John Deere (?) diesel farm tractor on a pull-off contest with an old steam engine farm tractor. The steam engine tractor pulled the four wheel drive John Deere with the JD going at full throttle (they were attached back to back). The torque on the steam engine was unbeatable. The guy said the steam engine gear ratio had to be set for pulling OR speed. MM. Your example fits perfectly with my statement of: - torque determines if you can get up the hill. - HP determines how fast. Most likely, the steam tractor simply had more torque at the wheels via lower gears but it probably never attained any significant speed. There also may have been secondary issues. Old steam tractors are typically very heavy and it probably had excellent traction even if only 2wheel drive. If the JD's wheels started spinning, it may have lost due to traction not because it didn't have more pulling power.
valhalla360 07/23/14 07:41am Class A Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 15  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2014 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS