Water in the patio outlet should trip the GFCI, it should not trip or even affect the SURGE GUARD (The model Camping World sells) Water in the SURGE GUARD however will shut it down.. If you have to ask how I know that .. Well, then I can't help you :) (I know people who would have to ask and there is no hope for them.. Still we try.. But i have to stop here cause it gets political).
I figured out how to keep water OUT of my Surge Guard plug in model.
One thing I will say about it.. We have had many "power blinks" here in the park,, This is wher epower goes out for like one second,. Just long enough to kick the heck out of our Air Compressor Condensers, causing them to try to re-start with a full head of pressure (not possible) and tearing them up (Enough of those and new A/C's installed, just under a kilo-buck, and I'm haveing to replace one for DIFFERENT reasons just now, Compressor works, nothign to compress).
The Surge Guard I have shuts me down for nearly 3 minutes when this happens, the computer in the A/C holds off a bit longer when power comes back. The total is just OVER 3 minutes of Compressor Off.. Three Minutes is the recommended minimum OFF time so... It's a normal re-start, no excess head pressure... Results..
Well as I said, The compressor is still good... IT's got nothing to commpress (Unit died of other causes, not heart failure) (I nearly died of heart failure (but got it fixed) however).
In short yes the 12VDC items may not work. The converter depending on make and model may or may not power up and power the coach with no batteries.
Possibly not.. RV's come in 30 and 50 amp versions, Some have somethign called an Energy management System (There are two devices that carry this name) The one I'm thinking of is the Intelletec (And any competitors) this unit is a computer that monitors power usage and can shut off selected loads as needed to keep you below 29 amps
IT EATS BATTERY POWER and has control over the water heater, A/C's and microwave.
Most other stuff save the TV (And sometimes even the TV) needs 12 volt to work. Firdge, Water heater, Air conditioners all eat 12 volt DC for control purposes.
The other EMS (energy manager/monitor) is the Progressive Industries type.. Though theirs easts 120 from the shore, It is possible a competitor's might eat 12 volt for the computer. Though I've never seen one.. But then I've only seen baswically 4 (30/50 PI/TRC)
There are other posibilities as well.
If this is a trailer (no built in generator) I would start by making a test lamp. This is a 120 volt lamp (Say 15 watt) in a socket with pigtails (you can get such a socket at hardware) extend the pigtials if you wish, put probes on the ends. And using great care cause if you do not very bad thigns can happen "Polk around" See if you have power at the MAIN circuit breaker in the breaker box (Measure to the whtie bus) then at the branch breakers (Same thing) as your first step
IF you are in a motor home with a generator, Then there is the Transfer Switch to consider... It too can (in theory) eat 12 volts.
There are multiple ways to calibrate a volt meter depending on the type (AC or DC) and what tools you have
The easiest is to connect in parallel with a meter that is known to be accurate.. (At least for the layman this is the easiest) This works for both AC and DC volt meters by the way.
Another involves a known voltage source. this works best with DC meters.. The problem is there are two different sources that are common.. and I forget the voltage of the most common.
Most common is a standard Carbon Zinc Dry cell battery AA AAA C or D all work well, alas, I no longer have access to the document that gave me the "Fresh cell" voltage.. This must be new, never used.. But the manual for my old VTVM (Vacuum Tube Volt Meter) RCA WV77E was the model as I recall.. Same one I used in college no less.
The proper method involves a variable voltage source, A mercury battery and a galvanometer.. Hou hook them up so the Galvanometer (Measures VERY tiny currents) is in series with the battery and variable source, adjust the variable source so no current flows.. Connect the volt meter to the voltage source (not the battery) and re-center the Galvanometer (Zero current).. THe meter shoudl display the battery's voltage.
Alas, that is Lab Grade Calibration and yes.. I've done that.
You lost one side of the RV. Is your rig a 50 amp? is it plugged into 50 amp or 30 via an adapter.
First part of this applies only to 50 amp RVs
Check park outlet and breaker.. Most people think that those dual ganged breakers both trip at the same time. NOT TRUE. it is possible to trip one without tripping the other.
Outlet may have "lost" one connection as well
50-30 amp adapters often drop one of the 50 amp legs as well. Try a different adapter.
You can also have a screw loose.. Mine was on the power INLET for my 50 amp RV, along with several in the circuit breaker box.
Auto Transfer Switches can do it as well.
Next This applies to ALL Rv's
If you have an inverter there will often be either A: A curcuit breaker or two on the inverter that may have tripped (There was a woman here once who had the same problem you have. She thinks I'm some kind of wizard.. I reset the tripped breaker, that's all, anyone could have done it). Sometimes the inverter feeds a SUB panel, (mine does) I do not, however, suspect an inverter in your case.
Screws loose in the breaker box can drop one side, the other side, or specific items (A/C's in my case)
LIke a flat pancake, I call it a "Flying Saucer" cause it is a few inches above the roof. It's junk, always has been, always will be.. Or at least the odds are it is junk
now that said they do make one that is marginally acceptable, it also has a "Direction" control but the Omni type is junk and the most common.
Replace it with a Winegard Sensar IV with Sensar Pro indoor module (replaces the switch) you will find it works much, much, much, better.
NO it does not sound like a defective converter. It sounds like a poorly designed one.
There is a book http://www.arrl.org/shop/The-ARRL-RFI-Book-3rd-Edition/
It covers many causes and cures.. It should have info on curing common mode interference such as you have.
Look down inside. On soem RV's the pipe is solid and there are no gaps
on others there is a smaller pipe inside the larger one and gaps between the two where water can enter your walls.
What to do about it
You can basically use most anything as a temporary cap. So long as it is BIGGER than the pipe and you can tape it down without sealing the pipe.
Years ago (1970s) it was not unlawful to dump grey water in Federal or State campgrounds. It was generally done by lots of campers. Have rules/laws been passed that now prohibits this activity or do RVers still carry on with this practice?
Laws vary from campground to campground and from governmental unit to governmental unit and sometimes even block to block within a governmental unit.. It is best to find out what the laws are where you are parked.
Water is classified 3 ways
Waste water (Shower. Bathroom Sinks, Washing machine) This can, in fact, be dumped on the ground in many places but NOT EVERYWHERE
GRAY.. Add the kitchen sink to the above list... (Food particles) This is much more restricted. but still allowed in SOME PLACES.
Black (you know what that is) Only allowed to dump into a proper sewer/septic system. NO dumping on ground allowed ANYWHERE.
Something they teach us electronics types is the meaning of Anode.
It needs to make an ELECTRICAL connection to the tank,, Brass plug, brass hole, should not need sealant. .Does, but should not.. Teflon tape or putty.. I do not think it makes much difference.
If those outlets are "Related". the most likely cause is a screw loose.
Many Rvers have a few screws loose. like the ones that hold the wires in the power distribution center.
Another cause is space heaters.. The outlets in RV's are ****, heavy loads (Space heaters are about 12 amps) tend to draw enough current that the wires overheat where they connect to the punch down connectors inside the quick box outlet.. Replacement with a proper outlet and box is the solution here.
Oh there have been a few women who won Darwin's over the years. but "Darwin" (the person who ran that web page) was a woman so...
Seriously though, the major cause of Darwin Award-ism, is testosterone poisoning, And that is a problem women do not often have.
Have seen it in action.. but alas. My levels (per lab tests) are low end of normal.
Because it's MINE, MINE, all MINE (Maniacal laugh)
Serously.. Wife and I choose this rig because of the "Floor Plan" which is a bath and a half, Though she is gone now (So I could go with a different plan) back when we traveled together... Well let me tell you the short story of a woman at Church after mass last Sunday.. She was on the outside of a door lookign like the punch line of the joke "The length of a minute depends on which side...." So I pointed her to the other room, which was unoccupied at the time.
Many times I've been reminded of "The length of a mintue" but with 2 holes.. NO WAITING in this RV.
To find teh compass heading you need one of three things
Best: A DISH network receiver.. Go to MENU SETUP ANTENNA, enter the proper satellite (if not always entered) 119 will do, and your zip code, the heading will be displayed.
A DirecTV receiver, same process, IF it will let you do it that is.
A Cell phone app. SAT FINDER will do nicely
NOTE: Dish used 3 Birds 119 is in the middle you need to see 110 and I think 127 as well. So use the phone app for all 3.
The Phone app uses the phone's camera so let you actually "Look" at the sat (it will give you crosshairs) You can then look for trees in the way.
Note that unless the generator has a 120/240 volt switch you may not be able to get full power out of that outlet... Just half.
note also many generators that DO have such a switch, also have a 30 amp 3 wire outlet.. And there are adapters for those as well.
I am in the middle of reading the web page. I know a bit about freeze drying, and have NEVER seen freeze dried food restored to "original Taste Texture Aroma and Flavor"
For long term storage (Preppers) it may well have advantages, but there are companies who can ship you a supply of food at fairly low cost.
For RVers.. I do not see any advantage at all.
Ok, you ask for it.. (Someone posted a "how many --- Change a light bulb"
Whereas the party of the first part, also known as "Lawyer", and the party of the second part, also known as "Light Bulb", do hereby and forthwith agree to a transaction wherein the party of the second part (Light Bulb) shall be removed from the current position as a result of failure to perform previously agreed upon duties, i.e., the lighting, elucidation, and otherwise illumination of the area ranging from the front (north) door, through the entryway, terminating at an area just inside the primary living area, demarcated by the beginning of the carpet, any spillover illumination being at the option of the party of the second part (Light Bulb) and not required by the aforementioned agreement between the parties.
The aforementioned removal transaction shall include, but not be limited to, the following steps:
1.) The party of the first part (Lawyer) shall, with or without elevation at his option, by means of a chair, stepstool, ladder or any other means of elevation, grasp the party of the second part (Light Bulb) and rotate the party of the second part (Light Bulb) in a counter-clockwise direction, this point being non-negotiable.
2.) Upon reaching a point where the party of the second part (Light Bulb) becomes separated from the party of the third part ("Receptacle"), the party of the first part (Lawyer) shall have the option of disposing of the party of the second part (Light Bulb) in a manner consistent with all applicable state, local and federal statutes.
3.) Once separation and disposal have been achieved, the party of the first part (Lawyer) shall have the option of beginning installation of the party of the fourth part ("New Light Bulb"). This installation shall occur in a manner consistent with the reverse of the procedures described in step one of this self-same document, being careful to note that the rotation should occur in a clockwise direction, this point also being non-negotiable.
NOTE: The above described steps may be performed, at the option of the party of the first part (Lawyer), by any or all persons authorized by him, the objective being to produce the most possible revenue for the party of the fifth part, also known as "Partnership."
Running the OEM tire inflation chart or perhaps a few pounds over gives the best compromise between smooth ride and tire life. On RV's the odds are the tire will age out before it wears out (unless you run heavy).
Second and far more importantly is the control
Inflation low: Excess flex in the sidewalls, plus the tendency of the tire to not make solid full width contact with the road REDUCES control
Over inflation: Only the center makes solid contact and again CONTROL is lost, plsu the ride is "Stiff".
Proper inflation gives full contact and maximum control.. This can be a lifesaver.
I just got an email from them also, and the biggest difference that I can tell is they now run off of the T-Mobile network now. Does anyone have experience with that network? Their coverage map does not seem to be as extensive at Verizon's.
You are looking at an OLD coverage map. T-mobile has recently upgraded (This year) both coverage and 4Glte coverage. now there are still gaps, but they are smaller and a lot fewer in number than they were, The map is nearly as complete as Verizon's and the service .. Well there is a reason I'm a T-mobile customer.
My phone now does 4GLte here in Darien where as last year it did "Watch grass Grow" as it were.
Does my III have an amplifier built in? If so, where does it get power?
I will get the UHF add-on to make it a IV.
Dopes my III have an amplifier built in YES.
Where does it get power: Comes in on the Coax cable
Where does it (Coax) get power.. four possible answers:
1: Wall plate, it has a light a switch 12 volt outlet, antenna jack
This is the most common answer
2: Box of Many Buttons (Matrix switch, Button on the left is POWER
3: Sensar PRO (Fairly rare, not standard in any RV far as I know, I highly recommend it though Direct replacement for #1, can be used with #2
4: (Very rare as well) Power Inserter (small cube in the coax line)
Where does it (the power inserter device) get power: 12 volt house system.
Hope this helps.
The Wingman makes at least 3 DB improvement in UHF performance(increases the range by about 1/2) It also reduces several sources of interference
Sensar Pro can make a much larger increase in both VHF and UFH, also has several aids to the user that make it well worth the 100 dollar (rounded) price tag.
My System: Sensar III,, Wingman,,,, Sensar pro.... Box of Many Buttons.. Digital Converters.... DVRs,, Router (The DVR's chat with each other and with computers in house) and TVs. Tablet and Smart Phone.