Your motor home can weigh up to 32,000 pounds of which 20,000 can be on the rear and 12,000 on the front but the total should be 20,000 or less.
Your motor home PLUS whatever you tow behind it can tip the scales at a max of 42,000 pounds.
So the towed vehicle can be the lesser of:
1: The rating on the tow hitch (I suspect your's is a 10,0000 pound hitch) and 42,000 less the actual scaled weight of the motor home.
Load it for "Bear" (Travel) and park it on a scale.. Find a flat, segmented scale and get the axle weights.. If needed adjust stuff front to rear to get it under the 12,400/20,000 limits. Then park with just one side on the scale to get side to side weights, again adjust to balance best you can
Once you have adjusted and have the 4 corner weights, Get the tire manufacturer's inflation charts and inflate per chart, MANY (Self included) like to add 5 PSI to the maker's chart.
Then weigh your towed, Odds are less you carry a good size land yatch type car or truck in an enclosed trailer you will be good there. But weigh it (or take it with you on the first run) to be sure.
If you do not tow 4 down. take the towed with you when you weigh (4 down towing adds next to no weight to the motor home, but does to the COMBINED gross vehicle weight).
In many motor homes.. The couch just sits there, Same as in your living room.
In some "L" brackets hold it to the floor.
Should not affect warranty.. Just do not mention you changed it if you have to file a claim.
I use one.. On my RV the drop hitch adapter was custom made by Blue-ox so that it not only pulls the car it holds my Bicycle carrier as well... The Immobolizer (mine is the older version) is used on the drop where it connects with the RV to hold the bicycle stable.. Works great.
I do not worry so much about the tow bars to the car. If they slop a bit, I do not care so much.
Trojan is considered by many to be the best.
I went with DEKA, which are still made in the USofA.
For house batteries you want a true Deep Cycle, not a Marine/Deep cycle. Golf Car batteries (now available in both six and 12 volt types) are DEEP CYCLE.
If access for watering and cleaning is an issue go with Maintenance free.
I do not feel the alleged advantages of AGM are enough to warrant the price and in my expierence, AGM's did not deliver the "Extended life" some claim for them, IN fact they were the shorted lived batteries in the house.
Ideally.. NO difference, however it is very hard to hit IDEAL when adjusting the burner so there may be some variation can go either way.
Also voltage varies.. Lower voltage gives the advantage to GAS.
Champion makes both Contractor's generators (Traditional open frame loud they should sell with earplugs) and inverter (more effiecent, quieter, no ear plugs needed).. I suspect, since 3500 is a common size for the first. that this is one of the noisy ones.
There are basically 3 or 4 types of tank indicators.
THE MOST COMMON is basically.. A nail (A metal rod that protudes into the tank, if the rod is underwater then electricity is conducted, Theory is when the tank is empty it is no longer under water. but SLIME on the side of the tank... Conducts as well). I can describe the operation in detail but.. Why bother.
Another type is a pneumatic sensor. (I wish I had a couple) these work better, they test for pressure.
Yet another is a different kind of pressure or weight sensor.
Finally we have See Level sensors.. They work, Much better, not quite sure how but they work (Capacitive coupling? mass sensors? one of those).
The nail. Well when the tank is new, or freshly steam cleaned. .They work.
I too agree with Bob. however I do notice that the same thing comes up, as the band used to sing, Over and a over and a over again.
In fact there are a few things I've boiler plated from time to time so I can cut and paste instead of re-typing.
(But then I'm the kind of guy who had a computer program I'd type in for folks to use when they had disc drive problems back in my Commodore 64 days. I never bothered to save it (Save on their drives) cause I typed fast enough that it was easier than finding the utility disc and loading it up. Complete with annotations and documentation and remarks and everything.)
For Federal parks, Being disabled he may qualify for a free Discount card.. How much the discount is depends on where and why you are using it, I will give some examples.
Access to national parks and forests: It may be as high as 100% off.
Parking in federal campgrounds, Forest service and COE, it may get you half off
Parking in concessionaire operated campgrounds such as Grand Canyon.
Gets you in the park free but no discount on camping.
COE parks (Which I mentioned above) Some discount, some do not, call ahead or visit reservation.gov. (By the way I am a senior, currently parked in a COE park for half price). There are over 2,000 discounts per the web site.
Oh, one other suggestion....
If you cut the end off the end of the extension cord and replace it with a DUPLEX receptical.. Make it a DIFFEREN COLOR from the ones in the RV now.. Usually the RV either has white or off-white, or black or brown.. If white, use black or brown, If black or brown use white or off white.
For inverter powered outlets use red, yellow or orange.
At FULL IDLE and no load any fuel powered generator is running at zero percent (No power delivered, still burning fuel)
At some point it peaks, With inverter generators this is fairly fast,, From there on increasing load will increase fuel consumption in a near linear fashion, that is double load, double consumption.
With traditional generators.. I varies depending on who designed and tuned the thing.
First find the electric heat element.. If it is an Atwood that will be on the "Back" (inside the motor home) I do not know where suburban put theirs.
When connecting test lamps make sure POWER IS OFF.
Look for voltage, A test lamp is my insturment of choice. If the light comes on the heat element is bad.. If not..
On my Atwood next to the heat element is a box.(Junciton box) inside is a relay, again check for power.. NOTE: Dangerous voltages exist even when heater is off) The relay coil is 12 volts the contacts should have 120,, Check for 120 to contacts and then 12 to contacts.
If no 12 to contacts the control board is the problem, if 12 volt but relay not closing relay is problem
NOTE: some (Suburban I think) have independent electric and gas Thermostats, if yours does, THEY can be the problem.
My problem was opposite yours, Mine worked fine on electric, no joy on gas.. Control board fried..
If control board. check out Dinosaur boards.. I really like the way they build their products..
Ever see a gas fired wood burning fireplace (Where the gas burners sit below genuine wood logs and you turn on the gas, light it, it lights the wood and once the wood is going good you can turn off the gas?)
Well,,, I built a gas burner that slides under the fire ring and you light the gas, it lights the logs, once the fire is going good you turn off the gas (At the tank) and remove the rod (Which is red hot) from the fire to a place it can cool. (by the way the regulator end of the pipe does not even get warm to the touch).
I have recently purchased a fifth wheel trailer and need to replace the TV....is it essential to purchase a Jensen for RV's or can I go out and buy the most economical I can find?
In your own words: Go out and by the most economical
For the most part there is NOTHING special about "Tv for RV". In some cases a TV made for RV will be designed to use 12-15 volt input.. But then many "Home" TVs are made that way as well, For example.. Last summer I picked up a very nice Samsung at Wall*Mart for a very good price since they had lost the remote.. Tried to talk 'em down even more but alas, no joy there (They insisted a universal remote for a few dollars would replace the 50 dollar Samsung remote.. Well they come close but the OEM remote always has a function or 3 the Universals do not have)
Turns out I had an older Samsung remote.. Yup, it worked.
The unit uses a "power brick" to make 14 volts to feed the thing, It can just as easily use the house battery but for reasons it would take too long to explain I use the brick.
Short version of explanation: IF you have reception issues when running off the house 12 volt system... Consider using the brick.. Use of the house battery can cause radio frequency Interference.
The other reason: I do not have the proper 12 volt "Outlet" plug.
From time to time that happens to me.. Depending on the outside temps.
I just turn it down a notch and all is good.
You need to monitor the temps in the fridge, if they get too high, turn it up a notch, too low, down a notch.. Alas, regulation is not all that great on these units.
The cap is mostly a dust cover.. Most auto parts stores will have them (they screw on as I recall, though the charge hose uses a different (Quick Disconnect) method) Theory has it the cap may prevent a leak if the valve leaks but considering the pressure in that line is well over 100 PSI I suspect any plastic plug would blow off like a cork out of a cork gun.
If you can not find a proper cap then a Vacuum cap (HELP counter in the auto parts store, HELP is a brand name) can be used, it is a slip on cover intended to cap a vacuum port but they make real good dust covers where no pressure is present.
Bumpy.. That is exactly how I read it as well..
As I said, I have one cord that is just that, and extension cord that has a plug on one end (OUTSIDE) and an outlet on the other (INSIDE) end. Actually. I have two of those but the other one is a tad more complex.
The night it hit 11 degrees outside here in the lowlands of Upstate SC where it rarely drops below 20.. I needed every watt I could draw. And I drew them too.