Let me put it this way.. I have had coffee at restaurants from the Atlantic Coast to the Pacific,, I have had the last cup of coffee from the pot at a FIRE STATION (And you know how good their coffee is)
I CAN NOT DRINK STARBUCKS,,, it's not palatable, they do not sell coffee, they sell "Coffee drinks".
So my advice to the O/P.. Buy your fresh brewed somewhere else.
My advice to everyone: See last line.
How does that poem go....
Beans, Beans the musical fruit
The more you eat the more you toot
The more you toot the better you feel
So eat your beans at every meal.
Not just beans but many other foods have that musical after-effet
And teh detector ... Detects methane as wall as propane and well ___ane.
Alcohol, Gasoline, And many other explosive vapors.
YOu can get 10GA fairly easily, Run a 10GA run to each outlet.
Many sources for 10Ga "Zip Cord" (highly flexible Speaker wire with red/black jacket) including West Mountain Radio (Google them) and Ham Radio stores such as GigaParts, HRO (Ham Radio Outelt) Amateur Electronics Supply and DX Engineering Radio Shack has 14GA WITH Red/Black and 12 ga Clear insulated (12 ga is heavy enough but 10 is less loss)
You can get 50 or 100 foot rolls in most cases
here is a link for the wire
West Mountain Radio
You may need to scroll down a bit to find the spools of wire, the 100' er is last on the page.
Ok, Voltmeters come in two flavors.
One is a TRUE RMS volt meter.. This one does some fairly heavy math (only takes a few very simple parts to do it but its fairly heavy math) to calculate the actual RMS voltage present. I will explain RMS later
The cheaper meter is a PEAK READING meter.
Warning: 40+ years ago when I was in school, the following was part of a COLLEGE course (Electronics, AC Theory) I took. Yes, I aced the course.
Now with a True Sine wave RMS is .707 times Peak, so if the meter sees say
(169 volts (I am rounding here) it displays 120 volts.
BUT with a MSW inverter, due to the "Square wave Like" Or Stile like nature of the wave form,, You will get a lower reading.. Possibly as low as 89 volts (120 * .707)
So: What exactly is RMS (Root Mean Square) Well.... Draw a sine wave (Either true or MSW) on a piece of paper.. Now there are two halves to this wave, A Positive and a Negative half, MIRROR the negative half so it's all positive (Due to the use of the word Square this is not needed but it makes the visual easier)
now, measure the AREA under the the wave line (Between the base line or the ZERO line)
Now, calculate the STRAIGHT DC-Voltage line that would give you the same area.
Because the MSW steps up suddenly, the peak is much lower than on a standard Sine wave, so a non-integrating meter (Peak reading) will give you a false (low) voltage reading.
There are 3 basic levels of DISH Antennas
300 is a SOLO (one lens) it can see 110, OR 119 or.. any satellite in the proper frequency band but only ONE of them
A 500 has one head, but it has two lenses (Eyes if you like or Hockey pucks) it is an OVAL dish, not a round, it has 3 adjustments, Azimuth (Direction) Elevation and Skew (Tilt) and it can see 110 and 119 at the same time.. NOTE that both sats are delivered to both ports in normal use, 110/119 only applies with some multi-receiver switches. (Which you do not need on a motor home)
The DISH 1000, is a triple (3 sats at a time, 3 hockey pucks) but you do not need that one.
Does this help?
I like Cool or Natural White.. I have cool and warm. (I can tolerate warm no problem)
Best way is to check out the different colors at different stores, When you find a color you like note the "Color Temperature"
Then compare LUMENS with the incandescent lamp you are replacing.. NOTE in some cases,, The LED's will give more efficient lighting, that is 100 lumens may be as bright as 150,, This is due to the fact that a "Bulb" shaped bulb is omnidirectional and and a Disc type LED is very directional.
Parks can be divided into two groups.
Most parks are not full, they have empty spaces all year long, and they hesitate to make anyone made because they need the money.
A few parks (I do stay at one) tend to run very full, and rules are enforced with a vengeance, They look at it this way.. If you pull out.. OPEN SITE for someone else to take. And for good reason too.
So why is it that THIS last one is the park where I routinely set my DVR to record the RV's nose camera all night long (For security reasons)?
If you know how to do wiring I have a suggestion:
Add one or two 15/20 amp outlets These have a "T" shaped neutral slot, They must be mounted in a proper box (not like a standard RV outlet)
I put in two, each of them is connected to the breaker with 12ga wire, Each outlet has a breaker all to itself, one on each leg of my 50 amp service.
Space heaters, Carpet cleaners, Vacuums, They all love these outlets.
First: on 50 amps Reverse Polarity should not be possible, OPEN GROUND however is.
Second, There are two different 50 amp surge protectors. On one there are LIGHTS, I do not recommend this one as it is a simply spike suppressor nothing more
The second has an LCD screen, reports voltage, current and error messages, This is the one you want.
I would have to say that anything "Can" happen. When I plugged into a 30 amp reverse polarity plug with my RV, the Trace inverter/charger did not like it - to the tune of $450 in repair costs!
Well, I agree anything CAN happen, I do know of a case or two of reverse polarity on a 50 amp system.. On of those cost Consumer's Power (Jackson, MI) several thousand dollars worth of fried electronics since they reversed it,, but .. As I said, that SHOULD be impossible. (not is, SHOULD BE)
What happens when you reverse polarity on a 50 amp? One leg is 240 volts (That is genuine reverse polarity)
On a 30 amp circuit, it is both very easy and far too common, Simply means you swapped the black and white wires..
IN his case, I do agree it is likely a neutral/ground potential difference he is seeing,, This may or may not indicate a problem.
First BEFORE YOU DISCONNECT get some markers or pain or tape or Split Loom (that ribbed plastic tube with a slot down its' side.. RED and Black. Even the plastic tags from bread loaves will do.
Red on the Positive wires
Black on the negative
Then IN-Season: leave batteries in RV
WINTER (off-season) bring it home and attach Battery minder.
Uh... Directly to the antenna? Winegard Batwings have two parts
The part on the roof
The part INSIDE the motor home
The part inside provides power to the roof part.. If it is directly connected your Pre-amp is a pre-attuenator.
I use 3 different GPS units
1: Garmin Street Pilot, programmed for S.E. USA.
2: Microsoft Streets & Trips (Several versions over the years) on a laptop
3: Samsung Galaxy S-III with Google Maps.
All 3 have advantages
The Garmin and the Samsung have much better volume on the voice direction (LOLA as Robin Williams called her) than S&T
S&T on the laptop has a much better user interface (Genuine keyboard) and much larger screen.
Garmin and S&T both work "offline" I can be anywhere, and plot a route, WI-Fi or Cell Signals not withstanding, IF I have an internet connection S&T will download construction info at least for the time being.
All maps on the Garmin and on S&T are stored internally.. NOTHING is remote save construction info.
The smart phone is good provided I set it up when I have a data connection, Once the route is set it can follow it connection or not, But if I try to update or change the route in an area of NO SIGNAL,, there is NO JOY.
It also EATS the battery.
There is an error in your calculations by the way.. I will explain it, I will also state this does vary from state to state and county to county.. But ask yourself this....
Why is a gallon of gas, NORTH of 8 mile near Detroit, often 10 cents more than the same gallon, down on 7 mile? Answer: Higher taxes.
Now... You say you do not pay more taxes than the local citizens.. in fact, in many cases you pay MORE.. here is why.
Many states have adopted a tax plan that I call "Soak the businessman" To be honest, I fully understand why.. I mean as a citizen I get a vote, but as a company, The campground where I am currently parked does not (As a citizen the owners get TWO votes, His and Hers but that is all) So consider the vast number of citizens who do not own businesses.. If a politician argues for higher taxes on THE PEOPLE, he is not long for office,, But tax the business man, oh how we love to vote those folks in.. COMPLETLY FORGETTING THAT IN ORDER TO PAY THAT TAX HE (The businessman) WILL RAISE HIS PRICES.
In short: You paid part of the park's property tax when you rented the site.
Removed min, Put in a couple "J" hooks, hung a step/extension combo ladder on hooks, Shower grab (Assist) bar at bottom, Bicycle cable lock to secure
Extension mode: Makes great roof ladder. Long enough for me to safely reach roof, and since it is slanted at the ideal ladder angle easy to climb, Also much stronger than RV ladder so it takes my 300+ no problem.
STEP mode great for washing and waxing sides, Working on awnings, and such.
In short, best mod I ever did.
I think the best response is the one that suggested getting it the blazes out of the coach before it starts a blazing inside the coach.
I do not THINK you have a fire hazard.. But I do not KNOW that you do not, and when it comes to fire, Better safe than sorry.
Too many things it could be,, A power supply capacitor is one of them but like the others, I do not think it would have that much oil in it.
Might be spilled cola,, but .. Well, till you know, you really should get it out of the RV for safety.
Re the "Tap with hammer" suggestion (I suggest using the handle of the hammer) Worked several times for me.
Finally I 'Re-indexed' the motor.. I will explain.
The motor has a "Dead spot" if it stops on this spot it can not re-start.
And it always stops on the same spot (or very close to it, so it happens again and again.
I opened the gear box, turned one of the gears about one tooth (or 2) and re-assembled, this makes the motor stop on a DIFFERENT spot.. Been years since I had to hammer it.
SO you have an Intelletec Battery Control Center? IF so it's in the bottom row of fuses, Not sure exactly which fuse but it's in the row along the bottom
use a test lamp to search for light on both ends of a fuse, if it's there, fuse good, One end light one dark bad fuse, Dark dark = no power to that fuse (Accessory or ignition controlled fuse)
Two responses in one:
When my Mother-in-law had her hip replaced she did as she was told and had no further issues.. years later she had a slip and fall which could have injured it, I was with her at the doctor's office (Son of surgeon who did the first operation) and he ask if she was having any problems with it (X-Rays showed 2nd fall did no damage) she was into Alzheimers and her response was "I have an artificial hip?" I looked at the doctor and said "You dad must have done a good job" he agreed (If she had been having problems she would not have forgotten).
Expect a ton of E-mail Spam
Have you or a loved one had a Metal on Metal hip replacement?......