If you have an Android phone of the right model (I do) there are two (at least) apps that might do it
Not all Universal Remotes are the same.. Some have codes others do not
Finally.. I have a rare brand TV here . Got it cheap cause it had no remote, I found a different make remote that 1: I already owned, and 2: Worked all but the INPUT SELECT function
Then I went on E-bay and got an original remote for 10 bucks.
Many RV air conditioners use both 120vac and 12VDC
The 120VAC will come off a breaker, Generally a 20 amp breaker, in the main 120 volt power distribution panel.
The DC off the fuse panel.. and yes, 7.5 may be proper.. I doubt the 15 amp fuse will cause a problem but you mignt try a 7.5.. Actuall load on that circuit should only be 1-4 amps or less depending on one or two A/C's and on or off.
Happened to me 4 times
1st time I disconnected and re-connected the battery (Cleaning the connection)
2nd Time.. Same as the first, 3rd, Likewise
4th time the batteries failed load testing.... (well design life is 7-10 years and they were 9 years old so no complaints)
There is a hint here Try cleaning connections.
As someone said, Onan generators are kind of "Chatty" when it comes to telling you how to feel.. Download the owner's manual and look up "Trouble Codes" for more on that.
Several sensors are disabled when starting, enabled when you take your finger off the button.. These include over temp, oil level, and 120vac out sensors.
I'm sure there are others as well but do not know what they are.
The blink code will tell you much, but it can be cryptic. For example "Low battery or Low cranking speed" You know that's not true cause it started after all.. Means no 120vac out.
I often run mine on 100' 12ga cords.. if you can plug it into a 15 amp outlet. then 100' of 12ga should be good too.. 100' of 14 ga might be tight, and 16Ga (many extension cords marked HEAVY DUTY are really 16ga) won't cut it.
NOTE.. Coiling the cords is a bad thing.
Since my RV's hydraulics do not work properly, in fact one jack is missing entierly, That is how I level.. HOWEVER.. A suggestion.
I have found the bottle jacks tend to "Leak" a bit (internally, not externally) so they do not hold well, Oh for short periods (Like changing a tire) they are OK, but for long periods (Days of camping) they will not hold.
So, I pump 'em up past level, then lower 'em down onto a set of nice jack stands.. My stands are six ton (rear) and 2 ton (Front) which is overkill (though I( need the SIZE of the six ton jobs on the rear) all sitting on lumber to give 'em a better (bigger)"Footprint" but they do not "leak" being as there is nothign to leak.. Nice Soild Mechnical latch
Also the stands cost less than 4 Jacks would
See precautions above regarding making sure you jack on the frame. Stand under it too (jack stand that is)
Disconnect the coach from shore power. Keep the ground connection for the welder as CLOSE as possible to the area to be welded.
Make sure that there are no wiring harnesses, fuel lines, propane lines, air lines, near the area to be welded.
Some people may recommend disconnecting the batteries, or ECM/TCM but I never found that necessary on any of my coaches.
I will second this post and make the very same recommendations.
In fact, when I had to do some welding on this rig,,,,,that is exactly what we did.
One other POSSIBLE solution ... I have had this rig welded upon twice, The second time they welded OFF the Rig.. that is the parts needing welding were removed (They bolted on) and the work was done on the bench in the shop, and then bolted back on the Rig.
Battery trays may be doable that way.. Depends on the RV.
Many have downgraded from Winegard to Jack.. Just make sure you buy the model of the Jack made to fit the Winegard "mast"
Why did I say Downgrade? IN independent lab testing by another forum member and in side by side performance tests I've conducted NOTHIGN, and I mean NOTHIGN sold for RV use beat the winegard with Wingman and Sensar Pro... (What I have) NOTHING.
That said. in some locations the Jack may do better.. Here is why:
There are basically two types of antennas, Omni directional and Directional or beam (There is a 3rd type. bi-directional but the wingman fixes that)
now,, how far you can "See" (How far a station transmitter can be from you and you can still watch that station) depends on the "Gain" of the antenna, Elevation (Both transmitter and receiver) and transmission power.
YOu can not do much about elevation, or transmitter power.. But you can do something about antenna gain.
Antenna GAIN is obtained by narrowing the beam width..
Think this way.. Sit in the back of the uppermost balcony of a theater (been there.. Dang near got a nosebleed) and look at the stage... (Tiny ants running around singing "Think of me" (Phantom of the Opera).. Now get out a set of opera glasses.. The ants get a bit bigger and you can still see the whole stage (Yes I had them with me) and then some (Masonic Temple theater, Detroit, MI by the way)... Now get out something like a set of 10x Field glasses.
Finally you can see what's happening on stage, but you may not see all the stage at once (not sure, did not have my powerful field glasses with me).
(Oh, I went back and watched it again, only play I've ever paid to see twice, this time from the main floor).
Same is true of the TV antenna, works exactly like the theater.. Omin you see all around you so if you are in the middle of 20 stations, you may see all 20, out to about 20 miles that is
Jack, has a wide beam width, like the opera glasses so if you have 20 stations scattered all on one side, say 40 miles out.. You are good.. I do park in one spot where that is the case
Winegard with Wingman I'm 50-60 miles out from several, at that range tightly grouped stations, see 'em all. More or less (that is the limit of its range)
Jack only sees about 80% of 'em.
Most inverters are in fact decent 3-stage chargers.. (Which is why I ask about the converter) so we will skip that.
however the control electronics, like anything made by man, CAN FAIL
So it's back to stick a volt meter (digital and one hopes calibrated) on the batteries and see what the charging voltage is.
NOTE: Most digital meters I've used were fairly well calibrated epically when new, this ranges from some 5 buck or free with coupon Horrible Freight jobs to some more expensive ($250 and up) meters.. And yes, I know how to calibrate them.
You are partially correct when you cite only 2 training facilities
Most RV makers also "Factory Train" but only in their product line.. Same of Auto makers.. You can go to mechanics school. or you can go to say GM Factory training.. But the GM school does not teach Ford (And the reverse is also true)
Both however teach the concepts needed to cross diagnose.
I've had general training, And verley likely could (per my brother who did) pass the certification test.. If I choose to take it.. But since I choose a desk job over a grease job.... I did not choose to take it.
Now I'm from Michigan.. Which by the way just purchased land for a new park. But the reason I point this out is in Michigan we have Counties (I've visited them)larger than CT.
So you have an RV, what's stopping you from leaving,, at least for a weekend or vacation?
Interesting or surprising fact.
From my house in Detroit, if you drove SOUTH, crossed into Ohio and turned left and headed east.. And I went NORTH, crossed the Big Mack (Bridge) and turned left.. You would get to the Atlantic ocean before I arrived in Wisconscon, assuming we both drove the same speed and number of hours a day.
How many states would you have to drive across. and all of them biggter than CT?
If the seam is properly sealed........ Then there is no way weather can enter
Of course if you have slides.. A perfect seal may well not be possible plus there is the underside of the slide.. Often not sealed at all.
Works, then not, then works, Sounds like flakey connection
Suspects are of course primarlly the "Roof to antenna" cable.
I should have replaced my cable when I was fixing it (not sure if I did, but dont' think so) due to age.. they don't last for ever.
Clean the filters inside the RV..
There are several possible causes but with two exceptions the solution is cleaning
Clean the fiters (First) as if the filters are dirty a partial vacuum is created above the filters,,, This sucks water (Condensate) out of the drip tray into the area in front of the evaporator coils (Evaporation has nothing to do with water)... Then when the fan slows, or stops NIAGRA FALLS.
Dirty water path (You need to be on the roof to fix this) or alge built up in the wate rpath can cause a steady drip drip even when the fan is running but sometimes the fan will hold the drips up
If the front of the RV is "low" on some designs it may cause the inner lip of the drip tray to be lower than the drip spot causing reverse flow.
But from your description I'd start by cleaning the filters
Icing can do it too, but rare. In fact Icing is more likely an effect than a cause but it can happen, and Dirty filters can contribute there too.
First: are the batteries Maintenance free or what we call "Flooded wet cells"?
How to tell the difference, Flooded wet cells you can remove caps and add DISTILLED water.
If Flooded did you add Distilled Water? If so how full.. Some folks fill 'em right up.. Some (like me) believe that 1/8 to 1/4" below the bottom of the filler tube is a better "Full" line.. And being as when I was trained Maintenance Free 12 volt batteries were few and very far between.. I trust my training. (Heck when I was trained Six Volt Batteries, always flooded, were still common in cars)
If you over fill, it will spit acid out at you. (oh yes that wet may be acidic, wash it down good)
Now: Somewhere in your rv is a device called a CONVERTER.
This is a box. May be part of something else (Read on) it will have a fan, 120 volt wires and 12 volt wires, Other than A/C the only thing that meats that description.
Now in MY RV, I have 3 devices.. one is a 120 volt power distribution panel (All circuit breakers, NO fuses) one is a 12 volt panel, (All fuses and LED's no breakers, though some are now being made with breakers)
And a stand alone converter (Box described above).
Many have an intergrated panel.. Both 120 volt breaker, 12 volt fuses behind a common door.. May be marked WFCO, or Parrallex, or Magnatek or ______ (other names) but you open this one door and both fuses and breakers appear
The converter is often part of this assembly as well
Why am I telling you all this about converters? The make and model please.. if part of distribution panel, you will likely find this information on the inside of the DOOR I just described.