To the O/P.. Your plan sounds good to me, should work, 3 feet to the batteries is good.
To Confused: he wants to use the inverter ONLY when no shore power is to be found. IE: Rolling, Rolling, Rolling down the highway.
Most dealers do not work no the chassis save for minor electrical issues and the like, An engine or transmission issue goes to the engine or transmission specialist.
Considering some of the work dealers have done for me...... I like it that way.
The dealers fix body and indoor issues Slide outs, that kind of thing and even some of that may be farmed out to a specialist (Body shop)
I find it offensive that anyone who reports a tire failure gets grilled about tire pressure and/or weight.
The suggestion was that he call an attorney.
The reason for asking the questions about tire pressure and weight is because that is what the tire company is going to claim. HE UNDERINFLATED THEM.
or did not properly inflate them
So I ask the question, here, where he has the choice of responding or not, to prepare him for what the Tire Company Liar is going to claim.
Now do you understand the question?
Personally... I know that most folks are more likely to go with the max pressure for the tire than they are the sticker pressure on the RV and at that pressure you loose several things, including tire life (But not that much) mostly tread life, not blow out loss.
You loose control easier, and it's a rougher ride, but it's not as likely to blow out as if it's under inflated.
I also had a trailer that even with max pressure would blow a casing every time I towed it till I upgraded the tires.
THIS. I suspect, is the Original poster's problem.. But as I said the Tire Company Liar and the trailer maker will try to blame the original poster. How it's done. So he needs to be ready to answer those question if he sues, which he should do.
True story... I was on the way to work and dang if they did not close the road, So I'm in the back up trying to get to my exit about 50 yards ahead (last one open) and some idiot runs the right shoulder to get past all us in line...
Well.. I tend to "Hang right" when in that kind of back up, since everybody else is hanging left instead of seeing nothing but the back of the head in front of me I have a view several cars ahead (Via windshields) So the idiot had to crowd right, His tires were half on grass, at the junction of grass and pavement, unbeknownst to both of us, was a hunk of metal.. Two flats later he got to the exit we were headed for... I got to work, Sent him a trooper to add to his woes. (I mean the sign did say "State Police Next Exit" after all)
He's not the only one I got.. Just the only one I got that way.
I do not think you can do what you wish... However the DISH-500 is a dual lnb system (It is also a TWIN, If you want to understand the difference TWIN refers to the number of "hockey Pucks' or lenses and "Dual" (or single) refers to the number of coax connections/outputs)
Run a 2nd Coax, install a 2nd coax to the 2nd receiver and you will be so very happy.
Pro's and cons..
First. in theory what you wish to do (Run I think it's 30 amps at 250 volts) to a common dryer outlet in the laundry area is possible.. PROVIDED, that is, you are on a 50 amp campsite.
On a 30 amp site you can tumble the cloths, but no heat (Please note the switching on this is automatic) so it may even work on 30 amps. Just no heat.
HOWEVER, it's sucking over half of your power on a 50 amp site.. May tend to trip breakers.
But, with energy management and understanding of what is and what isn't ... IT can work
I do not recommend it though.
Odd for the light to be on and no power. Have you checked voltage?
Did you try the coffee pot in the microwave outlet?
There are, for this discussion, two different types of GFCI outlets.
The ones at the church Parish I used to belong to when the light is on power is on to the outlet.. These are kind of rare I do not see many of them.
The one in my RV, the ones at most parks I visit, the ones I had in my house, all work differently.. When the light is on it indicates TRIPPED and no power is passed.
I'm thinking yours is like the far more common ones where the light means I'm tripped"
To find out.
Plug a known good night light into the GFCI outlet, no light means I'm right.
NOw... A common cause of instant trip
Water gets in the patio outlet... and CLICK of darkness ensues
(The click of darkness is either a tripped breaker or GFCI)
What type of regulator do you have?
I do not at this time have a tri-fuel, when I had operated a propane generator it had a demand regulator.
The point is, that you need different settings for NG than Propane. You are not arguing that, you are only picking on my choice of terminology, so there is no point in continuing, since we both agree a engine set up for PROPANE needs to be re-set for NG.
Depending on how the conversion was done, it may require new parts, or it may just need re-adjusting, That I can not tell you since I did not mess up the conversion.
That is possible, it's also posssible you forgot to properly label which wire goes to which terminal as the old 'Black is negative" may not apply. (or it may, but frankly without testing I do not know)
Would it be steeling air from the brakes that might be needed? Only if you fill up your bike tires while doing 55mph down the freeway... Seriously. if you are PARKED you do not need air brakes, and the small amount a bike needs will be replaced by the compressor faster than you can draw it off.
CAUTION however.. when filling bike tires.. You need to use a valve retulated fill chuck and be very careful, if you just (Valve regulated ones are the kind where you pull a trigger or press a lever to add air) as you can very quickly overfill a bicycle tire and damage the tire..
Sounds like a gun shot, And LOUD at that, when you do that.
First you hear a ripping sound.. Then if you keep adding (or a few minutes later) BANG!!! trust me, I know. (Did it).
File a complaint here: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/online.cfm
you said you checked pressure.. What was it
What is the pressure mentioned on the sticker inside the vehicle and what is the max mentioned on the sidewall.
Have you had the vehicle weighed and if so what is the recommended pressure based on weight (HINT: This is the proper pressure)
If.. You had the proper pressure in the tire, Consider callind Dewie, Cheatum & Howe attornies at law (Ok, perhaps not a firm from the 3 Stooges but I'm sure you get the idea).
In the electronics dictionary a battery is a collection of cells.
Now, when you go shopping for replacements you get two 12 volt batteries (Why I don't know) and pay a bunch of money.
Each battery has six 2 volt cells, wired in series to make 12 volts
When you install them however MAGIC happens... You now have a 12 volt battery with 12 2 volt cells wired in series/parallel to make 12 volts.
But the magic, is the two, have become one.
So you do not charge "Them" (The two in parallel) you charge IT. the one they magically became.
Why the "Why I do not know)
Most 12 volt RV batteries are Marine/Deep cycle, these are really starting batteries and like to be kept fairly well fed, say 75% or more.
The 20 hour rate method of determining amp hours gives about the following ratings.
Group 24 batteries are about 75 amp hours each
Group 27, around 95
Group 29 105
Group 31 130 *NOTE*
GC-2 (Six volt golf car batteries, which may well be the single most common lead acid rechargable battery made, and thus lower in cost than other styles) are 230 amp hours
NOTE; that 2 of anything other than Group 31 adds up to less than 230
GC-2's are also DEEP CYCLE, they can go down to half full (50% state of charge) safely and even an OPPS, is often recoverable (What's an OPPS, say 10 Percent SOC).
They also cost less.
And when properly hooked up (in series) magically become one BIG (Think 8D) 12 volt battery.
That said: Since you just got new 12 volts, I'd not be getting replacements till you need 'em.
I have both a battery operated job, it's ok for cars but no good at all for the RV, and an air operated one for the RV. If you ahve 22.5" tires you want at least a 3/4" air operated job. The battery ones won't cut it at least not the ones I've seen.
Mine is a 1/2 inch and yes... It got the job done, Had to over pressurize it though.
I am thinking the unit is icing up and the anti-icing sensor (A thermostat but not the one you adjust) is cutting it out.
Clean filters, check for obstructions (if it's a ducted unit) may improve.
Issue: My A/C is dumping all over the inside of the motor home, It's does not leak when it rains, only when it's running.
Solution suggestion: CLEAN FILTERS more often.
Not the only cause but.. I found it is one of 'em.
You should have specified NATURAL GAS as your fuel, not LP, the orifice size is quite a bit different.
never seen one with an "orifice", all I've seen and used have a adjustment screw.
An orifice is a small hole from which stuff spews forth..
Some are adjustable, these usually have a screw with a long taper that goes in the hole and partially obstructs it, They are also called Nozzles or jets and are part of every carburetor.
I used the term Orifice because where I have had to convert from Propane to NG, that was the name of the device, but metering jet might have been a better word.
The problem is.. He's not getting enough of the fuel.
It remains that he has it set up for propane, and he's trying to run it on NG, won't work that way.
Many cities in FL are redlined by AAA for excessive traffic enforcement. They count on people running red lights, hidden stop signs and the like to inflate the city budget. If they shorten the time on the yellow too much you have the option of taking them to court.. Yes, it can be done. but you need a real good mouth..er, lawyer.. to do it.
Me, Not a lawyer, don't even play one on TV.
COE (Core of Engineers parks).
When the COE builds a dam or other project they own the resulting lakeshore, Every inch of it. They often set up camp grounds on some of the nicer spots along the lake. These are very well maintained as a general rule, sites are clean and level Usually have electric and water on site (Some do not) and a dump station or 3 in the park.
I've stayed at a few of 'em. Very well impressed.
OH, if you or your significant other has obtained the magic age of 62, or if you qualify for another reason you can get a "pass" (Interagency pass or senior pass) that gets you half off on camping fees too. Even nicer. Same pass works at many other places.. Admision to the Grand Canyon National park for example is 100$ off with the pass... You read that right.. FREE. Pass costs ten bucks.
The fan is controlled by a thermostat.. It speeds up when the processor generates more heat, The Turbo mode has nothing to do with controlling the fan save that when in turbo the processor makes more heat. But streaming video can do it, so can heavy graphics on a web page or heavy duty number crunching recalculating a spreadsheet. ANY CPU intensive operation of which gaming is but one.