We had a rollover just west of Detroit, Nice expensive sports car, She was flying down the road and somehow hit the shoulder.. Flipped it rather well, Shes hanging there upside down by her seat belt which the medics had to cut to get her to the hospital.
This was back before hand held Cell Phones... They had to cut the handset cord too, she would not let go of it and stop talking... LITERALLY To save her life.
Optimas have more exposure to air (So they cool faster) and less capacity than other batteries.
Still, in the larger scheme of things, that is not a big difference in charge speed.
PLUS, imaging a 700 amp charger.. WOW. That is like 9 times the converter I have here. AND it would total my 30 amp shore line. It would major damage to the remaining power on my 50 amp cord in fact. Any converter over 100 amps is actually impractical on a 30 amp rig, or 200 on a 50. You simply do not have that much INCOMING power.
I strongly lean toward the reason to go digital was primarily done for consumer entertainment benefit and growth of the economy. The opening up of those frequencies for 2-way communication was right behind it. A win/win except for a select few people like me and dodge_guy where our reception at home suffered.
Well the reason I lean toward the industry wanting a fresh new cash cow is Multi fold.. One, Even a small digital TV is a hundred bucks, and I used to get CRT's in that price class for half that. And a good TV can easily last 10 years or more, so by making all those old CRT's obsolete, Major cash cow.
Second: I too heard about the opening up of the VHF band for other services.. IN fact the rumor is the FCC has already sold off much of the spectrum.. BUT TV STATIONS ARE STILL USING IT.. Even VHF low is still in use in some areas.. The FCC has not forced them to upgrade the transmitter,, Modulator yes, transmitter no.
This is a common problem.. I went to download a program I have used in the past and it installed some adware on my machine.. Took quite a bit to slap it down (Finally succeeded).
If all else fails google: How do I get rid of __________ (fill in the blank with the program that is bothering you) some solutions are harder than others, but usually they are the ones that work best.
I really think when jerks do that (I kind of wish I'd have done a bit more research on the one that bit me) Folks would send them a thank you note.
You are to appear in the ## circuit court
State of ____ located at ___address___
to show cause why you should not pay
__your name__ 1 million dollars as penality
for installing your mal-ware on his computer.
That kind of a "Thank you" note.
I see some possible issues.
First, I assume when you cleaned the carb you did a disassemble clean and reassemble.. IT is possible you got that wrong, but somehow I suspect doubtful.
Second: There may be a fuel tank outlet strainer,, This one is often forgotten, when cleaning the fuel system.. I would hope seafoam would clean it, but one never knows.
Next is one I actually saw on a 2000.. Thing would run for only a brief period of time... Two others were working on it feverishly and getting no place till I remembered reading about the EU-series. Then I mentioned the gas cap vent valve and it ran perfectly after that... (I told the park manager that since it gave them so much trouble I'd be happy to take it off their hands.. He said "NO")
Finally.. .There is a possibility you have an ignition issue as well... MANY small engines, in the old days, had breaker point ignition systems and these got kind of high-resistance over the long winter and thus it took forever to get them to start.. New points helped.. I suspect that Honda has a breakerless system.. but it may still need attention.
YES, Magneto engines have some type of breaker to insure precise timing.
She may be fine in an aircraft, Not sure if an aisle seat will be better but My mother flew cross country a few times and she... Well she had serious acrophobia, even worse then I used to have before I beat it down from a major roar to a slight meow. But that is more story than I care to post.
I will take those one at a time.
"Do Not leak acid and corrode my battery tray ."
This is true, but the same is true of Maintenence free
"Do charge faster than conventional batts"
Only LIFELINE recommends that fast charge from what I have found.
Other brands the recommended max charge rate is the same as for Wet Cells
"Are more tolerant to deeper discharges than conventional batts ."
I have not seen evidence of this, And I tried AGM's
"Do Not give off gases in the way that conventional batts do"
Again true of most MAINTENANCE free designs, that is part of how they make 'em maintenance free... By re-combining the vapors and dripping them back into the cell.
"AGM batteries have come down in price because they are becoming mainstream in new cars ."
This is true in part (They are coming down in price due to more sales reducing the unit cost. But if you want a WAY lower price, try Golf Car batteries. Same argument times 10
"At BiMart in Oregon I paid $ 140 each for exide edge agm batteries in a size group 78 ( GM side post )"
Can not argue with this but the group 78 is a small battery Roughly equal to a Group 24 which only holds about 75 amp hours. 150 amp hours if paired, 75 safely usable. (This is the starting battery on my Motor Home which is why I researched it)
I paid just over 300 for a pair of US made DEKA 230 amp hour six volt batteries, (in short about the same price) 115 amp hours usable (nearly twice the power)
My MK AGM's lasted 5 years (Both MK and Deka are products of East Penn Battery Company by the way) they were Group 31's 130 amp hours each.
My Interstate Golf Car batteries (OEM) lasted nearly 9 years FROM DELIVERY of the motor home (Next month is 9 years I replaced the Interstates last month.
If not for small batteries like the 12 volt AGM I use as a paper weight and to charge some smaller batteries and for other portable power uses, and the Jump Start pack I have which is also 12 volt AGM.. I would say "I've bought my last AGM".. Very good for hand held portable power.. Not so much for house power.
If you look at some RVs with full paint you will see that black would look better than white. You can't see the roof but you can see the air conditioner. When being built, some are even painted a color to blend with the full paint - brown, dark green, etc.
You got it, from the factory my A/Cs matched my Body,, Today one of them still does, other is White (matching roof) If I ever have to repaint,,, I may have them fix that.
Ah, O/P said "Sirens" in the subject line, this accounts for the confusion
These are not Sirens
But... If it slows them down and prevents the sending of a teletype that starts with "Reference Fatal Accident number ##-####-## I am all for it.
I have typed way too many of those messages in my time as a dispatcher.
I do agree, if wire is hot there is either a problem or......
Following is a true story.
One year my Ham Radio club ask me to help by providing power for the Field Day station.. So I parked the house out in the middle of a field, dropped around 130 feet of 30 amp cord to a octo-let in one of the operating locations, we then dropped 12ga to the second position, both stations were running 100 watt transmitters (About 1.5 amps draw) plus a laptop (perhaps 1 amp) and a lamp, (1 amp max) so we are drawing less than 10 amps on a 30 amp cord.. No overload there at all, heck 18ga would have done the job and I'm running 8,
When I went to roll up the cord Sunday afternoon it was so hot I had to wear gloves.
That is.. Till I got to the part of the cord which was in the shade of my awning, that was COLD to the touch.. Yes, the source of all heat is the SUN and that is what heated my cord.
Thanks for the detailed answer. Too bad the instructions for the Sensar Pro and/or tv don't give you all the information to begin with. I will play with this stuff and see if I can make it easier to use.
Well the TVs instructions can not help you with the Sensar Pro nor can Winegard predict what TV you have, as others have said, some (VIZO) Tv's are clearly lacking in menu options (By the way that is the one TV I recommend AGAINST and it is also the reason why).
One of the neat things.. I do not like to have to adjust the antenna all the time and what is more I record using two DVR's so I get the latest in Cable/Sat "Record two shows at once, watch two shows (Actually 3 at the moment and 4 coming if I had that many TV's) Pause, Rewind, Fast Forward, Jump, Start in one room, finish in another and all that Features with DVR's going on a decade old.
Thus I really do not like re-adjusting ant for different stations.
SO if I have two that are tricky.. I can lay one in on the Sensar Pro (The TV or digital converter tells me which channel to lay in) and the other on the TV, and find the best "Balance" between them.
To find out which stations are on what channels.. This may not be possible on all TV's (Again See Vizo)
I scan (With my digital adapters of TV's) then go to the station I wish to peak.. Go to the Channel add (manual) page, it will be pre-tuned to the channel you selected and on my sets (All 4) has a signal strength meter (only 3 are hooked to the antenna, 4th is used as a monitor only) One of my adapters (The one made by Echostar of course,, I'm not kidding, the aiming software in Echostar boxes is fantastic, best on the market) tells me the display channel (IE: 7-1) the frequency channel (IE-41) and the actual frequency in MHz.
From this, I can not only POINT an antenna... I can Design one.
Rather than post photos I post links to Dropbox, have not yet figured out how to get the photo to post.. Dropbox is an APP for your smart phone.
When you open your Drop box account, there are some files there already, and one of them is how to use Dropbox.. There are also a few "Default" folders.. PUBLIC is one of them... You put the photo you wish to share in PUBLIC, and then you can post a link Like this.
Oh, use the "Link" tool not the photo tool, photo will not work with Dropbox
No, but it will improve engine performance..
There are TWO engine upgrades I approve of. Banks and Ultra Power (Only one per engine though) Banks is a company with a long track record, they support their customers well and in fact in 2006 Workhorse came out with their "SS" line which is where they put on what amounts to a copy of the Banks at the factory.
Ultra Power, though not, as far as I know, as old as Banks, is about half the price and also has a good reputation of customer support.. In fact going above and beyond in some cases. That said Workhorse does not approve of UP like they do Banks. That's ok though, UP covers it.
True (short) story.. One time slice a whole bunch of folks came into one UP dealer (Who is also an RV service center) with the exact same engine failure. Workhorse authorized warranty on the ones without UP (Half of them) the other half Workhorse refused and blamed UP, note, all the same model half year, all the same failure.. As far as I know Ultra Power "Ate" the repair costs for their customers... They likely settled with Workhorse later, but in all cases the customer walked out with a Bill that said "Total after warranty----ZERO"
I replaced my signal booster with a the new Winegard Sensar Pro, and along with the Wingman attachment to the Winegard crank-up antenna we get a whole bunch of channels. 37 in fact on last trip out, but we were close to town.
One of the parks I frequent:
Batwing, Nothing or 1 if I'm lucky
Batwing with wingman, like 2 stations
Batwing with wingman and Sensar pro.. Varies depending on things I have yet to figure out but on a good day.. I get 'me all including a couple from the other side of the river (It's a border town, the "River" (St. Clair River) divides USA and Canada)
Oh yes, I like that Sensar Pro.
40 amps are reverse polarity fuses for the converter, It will work till battery dies.
SUGGESTION: Get a couple of small cans of spray paint,, One red, One black.
On the POSITIVE end of things.. Spray red, over-spray onto the battery is actually a good thing in this case.
On the Negative end.. BLACK. Likewise on over-spray.
Then next time you pull the battery
RED to RED, Black to Black.
Does not get much easier, or harder to screw up, than that.
I would say Camper Paul has it.. If it works in bypass. but not in automatic, and you have already replaced the thermistor twice.. Not much else left.
Check with dinosaur boards (Delete space add www. and .com) and see if they have one for it. If they do I will tell you what I found when I ordered one from American RV in California.
Mine is for an Atwood furnace.
First thing I notice out of the box was a general feeling of QUALITY, Nice big heavy traces, every solder joint looked pristine (And yes, I have the credentials to make that judgement), the board looked to be very well made.
Upon closer inspection (I have some engineering training however I never completed the degree) I found even the design was superior to the OEM board.
Made in the USA as well.
I highly recommend them.
Oh,, As for the furnace.. Since I slipped that board in it has failed one time.... I ran out of propane.
I assume your 60 amp welding plug is a 3-wire (Be glad the motor home plug does not fit)
If you know how you can upgrade to a RV outlet, else have a professional do it. That is about all I can say.
Personally. I do know how to do it but I'm not licensed and do not wish the liability.
I will say this
Normal 240 volt Welder outlet has 3 wires, L-1 (HOT) L-2 (Other hot) and safety ground (lighter weight wire not intended to carry current if everything is workign properly)
RV outlet has 4 wires
L-1 and L-2 (Same as above)
Neutral (Same size as L's)
Safety ground (As above)
In one shop we pulled a white wire of the proper size through the conduit and changed the outlet.. But that only works if you have conduit.
Else, you put in new Romex.
The amplifier is in the very best place for an amplifier to be.
In the middle of the batwing up above the roof.
The wall plate (if you have one) is a switch and a power supply. If you have the box of many buttons, it is many switches, and a power supply.
This is why with the exception of the Sensar Pro, which is specifically designed to either Replace the wall plate, or go "in front of" the box of many buttons, you do not have anything between the switch and the antenna.
The new flat screens do have a set of standard spaced mounting holes on the back, there are brackets that will mount it to a wall.. You put a DOOR on the cabinet (you may wish to have a cabinet maker re-make the cabinet) and mount the TV on the door. Open the door and inside you put DVD's. blue ray discs, CD's and such since you now have all this spare storage.
That is my plan.
I like TOM-N's suggestion, and in fact built something along those lines (but not nearly as impressive)
Split the wood, the center will still be dry and the outside will dry as the center burns.
WHat I did:
LP regulator from an old gas grill
Conduit.. In one end of the conduit I cut a pair of "Windows" about the size of the air admittance gate on the grill.. I put a slight bend about a foot beyond that and starting a few inches past the bend drilled holes. around 3/16" as I recall (Size not all that important) finally the far end is hammered flat and bent over to close it off.
Slide it under the fire ring, (Does not work well with these new concrete safety rings less you can figure out how to get under) and light the flame, pile the logs on top.
Basically: Gas fireplace.
I have found.
End of pipe in it gets red hot
End of pie with regulator remains cool to the touch (This is important)
I feed it with a hose from a tank at a distance.
I remove kill the gas flow (At the tank) remove the regulator once fire going good and set them well clear of the pit.
Remove the pipe (OVe-Glove is nice for this even if pipe was cool when you removed the regulator.> Why take chances) and set aside as well.