Jeep 4X4 can't flat tow a 2 wheel drive Jeep needs to be 4X4
Not just 4x4 but 4x4 WITH MANUAL TRANSFER CASE
their new all wheel drive with electronic transfer and clutches can not be towed 4 down. 2 down, or any other way, Must be trailered or flat-bedded.. Source: Jeep 2014 Liberty owner's manual.
My set up is quiet different from yours.. The genny exhausts to the side, near the black water bay. BUT the problem is the same,, Exhaust fumes rise into the motor home via assorted routes, I am starting to find a few of them.
Hoever there is a cure... It is made by Camco and it is called a GEN-TURI
This uses the venturi principle it consists of a bag of adapters so it fits yoru exhause, one or more of these clamp on the exhaust pipe Then we have a SWEEP ELBOW (large radius elbow) that has 3 prackes on the end of it, these hold a polycarbonite pipe Very light weight, black in color and much larger then the sweep.... Exhaust "Jetting" out the sweep sucks in cool air via the Gen-turi principle so the pipe remains fairly cool.. HOW cool, after several hours of operation you can hold it in your bare hand with generator still running for several minutes.. (Though one time it got too hot to handle.. but it was SUNLIGHT, not Generator that made it that way)
This takes the exhaust fumes up above the roofline, from there they continue their upward journy up-up. and away from your living quarters.
Some folks yammer about the rootop air conditioenrs sucking in this exhaust.> Two answers to that
First.. The rooftop A/C is in the center of the RV, at the minimum six feet from the Genturi.. So by the time the exhaust gets over to where the A/C is it's already at lest 12 feet ABOVE the A/C. 2nd the A/C does not move air from Outside to inside, if anything it's the other way around.
I agree with the OP. When using only 2 batteries, a pair of 12s provide a distinct safety margin over a pair of 6s.
Come to think of it, even a single 12 is better than a single 6!
Now this shows faulty thinking.. First THERE ARE NO SIX VOLT BATTERIES IN RVs.
RVs use 12 volt systems, Now this system is ALWAYS powered via either the converter or via a 12 volt battery.
Since an 4-D battery is kind of heavy and hard to wrangle (230 amp hours at 12 volts) many RV makers and Many RVers choose instead to use two six volt batteries (GC-2) wired in series,, Now if you buy the same DEAKA's I have this gives you 230 amp hours at 12 volts when wired in series.... Where have I seen those figurs before.... Oh yes
Thats a 4-D
Only each HALF of this 2-piece 12 volt battery is about half the weight of that 4-D.. and I might add, Just a couple pounds over my lift off the ground when lying on my back limit. (On a good day I could likely do it)
But I do not have a six volt battery, I have a 2-piece 12 volt battery, in the battery compartment.. I also have more than one.
Story goes: Photographer had her camera stolen.. Shed been given a Eye-Fi for her birthday and it was in the memory slot..... She got home, Logged into her Eye-Fi account, downloaded the photos (full front) the thieves had taken of each other and E-mailed them to the police.. Who then went out and took matching side and 3/4 profile shots (Along with new full face just for the record book) .
Fun card.. Stupid crooks.
I my motor home I have run stove, (Both oven and at least 2 burners topside) and water heater at same time.. Can't recall if I've ever added furnace and fridge to that mix (But doubt it cause with oven going furnace not likely active and fridge normally eats 120vac not gas) but Im' sure system could handle.
You described, more or less, how I do things.
On a 50 amp site: I use the washer outlet (Since I do not have a washer) and a heavy duty extension cord.. PLUS I have 3 heavy duty outlets here in the motor home.. These are 15/20 amp outlets, each one has a breaker all to itself 12ga wire to the breaker Some are 15 amp some 20 on the breaker.. Save for one special outlet.. that one is shared with the Rear Air Conditioner (Argument I will never need both at one time).
The Rear A/C power runs to an outside compartment, there we have plug and socket, So on a 30 amp site it "Breaks out" and eats independent of the rest of the RV.
There is also an extension cord. originally I just put the slide out half way, fed the cord out and finished the slide, I finally routed it through existing openings down into one bay. This too can eat off the 20 amp outlet on the park side. What configuration I use depends on the site and the need.
Two thigns I have said before in these forums: (Or it nearly happened to me)
ONE: the instructions for the break-a-way say not to have it attached to any part of the tow system, THus the switch should NOT have been attached to the base plate.. NOR should the motor home end be hooked to the loop for the safety cables like the dealer did mine (The dealer at least attached the switch to the towed not the base plate.
WHY: in my case two brackets broke on the motor home, dropped the cross bar the RECEIVER is welded to on the ground.. Break-a-way and all, thankfully the car tracked true and one wire remained hooked, The Brakes, so it stopped when I stopped. Guess I had it set right.
The base plate:
On mine.. A routine inspection found 2 bolts loose and one missing.. Seems the dealer forgot to read the line in the instructions about LOCKTITE.
Current towed is due for inspection next time I have it raised but dealer assures me Locktite was used.
Long Long time ago.. My brother drove a gasser.. A Ford 8,000 Gas Conventional SEMI tractor, pulling a flat, with sides, usually tipping the scale right close to 40 tons (80,000 pounds) (Later in life he upgraded. To a Kenworth, pulling a flat (no sides) loaded with steel, and a 160,000 CGVW plate.
But he drove that Gasser cross country week after week for several years, Delivering to most of the USA. Then picking up stuff coming back toward Detroit,, Lots of power, No problems, just routine service and check the oil.
I can not tell you how many miles he put on it but 100,000 a year would not be far off.
I have seen Gas Cars (Not as many gears means higher RPMs and more engine wear) hit 200 to 300 thousand miles and more. With proper care.
A lot has to do with HOW you drive.. Light turns green, you mash the pedal to the metal, Jet out of there, come up to the next light and stand on the brake,,, Shortens everything life.
Light turns green and you GENTLY press the pedal timing it so you get to the next light just after it gets turns jelous (Green) and the next and the next cruising down the drag without having to mash on the brakes.... Lasts longer
I once drove a stick shift, all the way home from work, without using the clutch.. Several lights,, No problem.. I knew the timing.. Fixed clutch linkage next morning.
I suspect it is a case of something being changed from one model year to the next and the book not being changed till the year after that.
Either that or the tracker is like Jeeps.. Some of them you put the tranny in gear (Park or 2nd works well) put the transfer case in NEUTRAL and tow all you want.
others can not be towed 4-down without major modification.
And that is the same model, and the same year, different options.
I use the same kind of tray myself, however the prescription bottle is what, less than six inches from the tray.. Saves me a lot of time thinking "DID I or DIDN'T I for assorted meds,, which reminds me REFILL TIME.
A router might work, or you might do be able to set up an Ad-Hock bridge between her laptop and your laptop.. But you are going to need someone who knows a whole lot more about it than me to pull that off.
3-way water heater bypass. Bypass valve open
1 or 2 way valve(s) not fully seated in end of quadrant
Faucet washers or ball or cartridge worn out.
Fact: Nothing special about the faucet, a common DELTA or MOEN from your choice of plumbing store will replace it.
Two options. on an RV Id' guess the striker plate or the guide bolts need adjustment.
on a car or pickup.. the entire door (Hinges wear a bit) if the vehicle is old the hinges may need re-pinning,but it is possible a striker/guide adjustment may work there as well.
Regular lamps work on AC, DC and reverse polarity DC
LED come in two types. ONE type.. see above
The other kind works
On ac but at reduced brilliance
But not on reverse polarity DC
Now bulbs come in a few flavors physically... Some you can turn the lamp 180 degrees and reverse the polarity (Wedge based) some you can remove the led assembly from the adapter and plug it in the other way around into the adapter. And some... Dissassemble the lamp fixture and odds are you will find a bunchy of white wires and black wires coming from the sockets to a common point.
IF this is a 3 light fixture the wires from the sockets should are most likely bundled WHITE, WHITE, BLACK and BLACK, BLACK, WHITE the one that is not working being the odd one... I suspect by now you have figured the problem.
I would have to say some kind of motor home controlled is best solution as well, however there may be another solution.
Contact the surge brake manufacturer.. I will explain briefly how surge brakes work.
When you brake the trailer presses against a SPRING in the hitch and this movement operates the brakes, either by straight Mechanical (system of levers and cables) or by hydraulic means or a combination of the two.
Clearly, the spring (if it exists) needs ajustment, or if it does not exist, installation.
Mine did that too.. Turns out there is a Technical Service Bulletin out on them, this is not a recall since it is NOT a safety issue.. But what it means is if you take it to a authrized service center you just might leave happy.
As i said,,, Mine went out.. ON THE WAY to said authorized service center :).
I did not even have to make an appointment to get it fixed, Just and "Oh, by the way, on the way here....."