I do know there are a few old style pumps out there where the nozzles are on the END of the pump.. but most of those you have either side by side dials and such (Basically two pumps, one "Right handed" one "Left handed" and the half of the pump the hose is on is the half you use. or there is only one hose.
MOST pumps are what I call "TWO FACED". this means that the hoses are on the FACE of the pump, not the end,
It would be very hard to "Swap hoses" (though generally not impossible) but it sure would be noticed.
The job may be easier/harder than you think (Easier cause you need spend less money, harder due to cable routing).
First: If you are talking over the air,, There is no such thing as an HD Antenna, it is an antenna period,, DirecTV has HD antennas, Dishnetwork,, the 1000 antennas are HD, but OTA you just say ANTENNA.
Now to the issue:
if your "Booster" (which by the way it is not) is a wall plate, then on the back there should be a 3rd port which is named TV-2 (will likely not be labeled) the 3 ports, left to right, with the 12 volt accessory socket at the top, and looking at the back are
Rooftop antenna = Park Cable = TV-2 (And if there is a 4th TV-3)
As the other person said, so long as both stations are on the same heading (no need to rotate the antenna) will work very well.. I know.. I do it that way
1: Use quality RG-6, not RG-59,, often the cost is the same in 100 foot or less rolls but the signal delivered may be much better with RG-6.
2: you night consider changing that wall plate to a SENSAR PRO if your antenna is a winegard Many many advantages
The programs you cite can connect to the internet by assorted means, Cellular (often called Wireless),, Wired (Though your phone likely can not do it that way) and Wi-Fi (which is also "Wireless" but we call it Wi-Fi)
Cellular (wireless) your phone is connected via a tower somewhere, usually distant, and you are using up your data allotment when you use it.
Wi-Fi, you are connected to a router, Likely much closer to you then the tower, this router is then connected via (usually) Telephone lines or cable.
Connection speed is the issue... Though Verizon advertises the largest 4G, as does someone else, only one of them can be true. If you are on a 3G or lower connection speeds may not be good enough for video
Wi-Fi, with a decent connection you can get like half a gig per second speeds, or better.
First consider a pair of GC-2s in place of those G-27s More amp hours, about the same price. and since they are DEEP CYCLE you can use more of the stored power without damage to the battery.
Second: NO, there is absolutly no way on the planet the load will be shared equally between the tow vehicle and the trailer,, the six ga wire is simply not hefty enough, you'd need a wire bigger than your arm to even approach equal sharing and even then you'd not get it.
Group 27 is just under 100 amp hours, adding a 2nd one gets you about 190 AH give or take a bit, about 20 percent usable.
Switch to a pair of GC-2 Six Volt Golf Car batteries in parallel, You will need to shim the sides a bit, and they are taller (make sure you have the head room) you get 220-230 amp hours, and 50% of that usable That is way more power.
About the same cost.. no changes to charging system needed.
Piano, surely you are wrong about the gen not charging the house bat?
There are exceptions of course (Are there not always exceptions?)
But on most motor homes with generators designed for RV use the generator has no 12 volt output, only 120vac out, and that feeds the house systems same as shore power.
ONE of the house systems is the converter (or in some cases an inverter with charger ability) and THIS is what charges the battery.
EXACTLY THE SAME AS SHORE POWER!!!
So Piano is correct. Usually.
In some cases there are a few motor homes which have 3 batteries, ONE is dedicated to the generator and is maintained by the generator it has no other function than to start the generator.
And of course some RV's have "Stand alone" generators that do put out battery charge voltage,, but this is rare because there is no reason for the more costly stand-alone type genny
Many E-Mail hosts do spam filtering,, A big (top 5) Bank will send millions of E-mails per day, Lower cost spam filters will see this as evidence of SPAM, even some of the better filters may do that.
Yahoo, and G-mail both give me options.. I can choose to receive ALL mail, or let them sort obvious spam. And I can view the spam folder (If I use web mail) to see if they sent one there by mistake (They often do).
With G-mail 99.9% of what I get is not interesting Thus I do not review my SPAM folder, but with Yahoo, both my main E-dresses are Yahoo (Actually the same account on Yahoo).
One of the major advantages of Web Mail is infected E-mails never get to my hard drive. Both G-mail and Yahoo use very good anti-malware scanners, and even if it gets past those,, I have my own.
Heat pumps work when there is enough heat OUTSIDE, depending on the model some can work down to around 30 degrees but many cut out at around 40.
Electric fireplace,, Heat output varies with wattage but it works at all temps. and looks nice.
Space heaters,, See electric fireplace, but with the "Fire" turned off. plus more flexibility in positioning and lower cost.
NOTE: A 1500 watt heater draws around 12 amps, Many of those outlets used in motor homes are somewhat "Stressed" at that current level and may fail. I have had one fail, so have others,, I fixed by putting dedicated 15/20 amp outlets, each is fed with 12 ga, bent around a screw and tightened well, and fed by a breaker that feeds only that outlet nothing else,
Hackers cost the US (And the citizens thereof) more than robbers, murders, burglers and all other thieves. About the only thing more costly is War (Perhaps) and Politicians (Who, of course, decide if we go to war).
They are the terrorists of the internet and I think should be treated just like the terrorists with the suicide vest who gets disarmed first.
And before anyone says "They have not killed anyone" I will answer "Not that you know of". because I know of many systems that if hacked, people could easily DIE, and some of them have been hacked,,, But the Death was listed as other causes.
Example.. Hack the traffic control system in a city using a central computer and accidents can kill.
Not only with a 50 amp unit work on a 30 amp site (with the proper adapter which you need anyway) one of the functions works BETTER on 30 amps (Spike suppression) No problem at all using a 50 amp unit on 30 amps.
Might not be the valve.. Before you go tossing money at it try this procedure.
1: turn off heater.. Wait as long as you can.
2: Shut off water to heater, Either use the bypass system or turn off water to the RV (Both city and on-board pumps).
3: Remove drain, NOTE: I like to pipe the flow out past the side wall of the RV.
CAUTION hot water under pressure
4: Open TPR (the Release valve) to increase outflow.
5: When outflow stops, close TPR and replace Drain plug, IF SURBURAN or other anode using heater inspect anode while you have it out and if in need of a new one, Now is the best time.
6: Restore water flow to heater and let fill.
7 REstart heater
Now see if it still leaks.
Water heater is also an acumulator tank and over time the air cushion is absorbed into the water and vanishes, leading to leakage at the TPR as the water heats, due to overpressure .
Is it possible: YES
Has anyone done it: MANY, Myself included
Many ways, mine is perhaps the hardest But lets look at how you get Internet
Cellular hotspot: Ok there you are, many cell hot spots are all you need, but if yours will not let devices cross-connect (not sure if mine does) use a Cradlepoint router and you have solved it.
Sat-Internet (Hughesnet) Just plug a router into the modem, Your choice, Beling, Hawking, Netgear, Linksys/Cisco, D-link, all work well.
How I do it:
I have a Linksys Wireless Game Adapter... And (currently) a Belkin router (I RECOMMEND AGAINST BELKIN ROUTERS)
Treat the WGA as a cable modem.. Only special thing Is to set it up I have to program the IP on the router manually (I have macros set up to do this automatically with just a few mouse clicks) then return to automatic once I have the WGA working, Do it all with my browser.
Alternative: Wi-Fi Ranger or like deivces incorporate both a Wi-Fi "Modem" (like my WGA) and a router in an integrated package, may or may not be two cable connected devices. May or may not Re-Route depending on the model (I think the Wi-Fi Ranger is 2 pieces, Cat 5 connected and re-routes, which is exactly what you want).
Belkin routers connect, flash the Connected light, then "Phone home" (Ping belkin) and if they do not get a response show disconnected.
MOST routers show connected when they receive an IP address This is much easier to deal with.
In my case the WGA is mounted with a device over the antenna to improve range, Works well, I can put it outside the motor home (Another increase) on the roof, in back, up a flagpole (20 feet) whatever I need to do to get a clear and strong signal. A very flexible system Currently it is in the back bathroom on top of some stuff (No need for special effort)
But in one park I often had folks connecting to the park router via my WGA/Router set up, What makes this fun is they were much closer to the park router than I (about 1/3 closer).
I think the design threshold for damage is 135 but do not hold me to that... but if yours is cutting out at 130-133, that would likely be the case.
Report it to the facility management and recommend they inform other clients.. If you do this, and someone gets hit with a kilobuck or more repair bill for fried electroincs, It is on management, not you.
There are several products where Camping world no longer carries the "Genuine article" They now carry a knock off.. is the knock off as good? Well in one case, I think yes, but in this case I have not the knowledge to do more than ask the question. (Suspect it depends on the product).
Hope it works for you.
I have never personally seen this but I have never done a short trip via toll roads,, Always had to make a stop for food, leg stretch and a spot of thinking. Thus extending the time between booths.
I have, however, heard stories like this from several sources over the years.
Still, till I see the ticket I have to class it as rumor.
It does, however, make sense.
Theft is rare but it does happen This is why you have insurance. As for the guns, you need a locking gun safe, not just a hidey hole but a gun safe with a secure lock that is kid proof, same as at home and for the same reasons. Double lock is even better (Example, put it in the basement). If you rely on guns for protection, I feel sorry for you, There are better ways to protect (IE: DO not open door to drunken strangers). (There is a story about that, here on the forum no less, Search for RVer sues Walmart or something like that). (This was a odd case, You see, Walmart is not used to winning).
If you are really worried, there is a device on the market by Verizon, it combines several functions into one small cube
1: Wi-Fi hotspot (Verizon cellular data)
3: Vehicle Traking See note below
Here is the link http://www.delphiconnect.com/
As a police dispatcher, I can tell you that it is a ton of fun when the owner has a tracking system installed that works over the cell network :).
I do not yet know if this device is compatible with systems other than Verizon, and since Verizon is not compatible with me I have not tried it (Their cuss-some-more service dept has not made me happy).
Inverters come in two types. (times two types) in this case the two types I will discuss are Stand alone and inline
Stand alone have DC in and AC out,, In line have AC in AC out and DC in/out (same connection works both ways)
If you have an in-line, then when you run the honda, it will switch the inverter to standby and the inverter will pass power to the TVs from the honda.
IF you have a stand alone, then you will either have to run it to a transfer switch of some kind, in which case see transfer switch below OR you will have to run it to separate outlets. (Or locate it where the power cords can reach the outlets on it however I do not recommend this).
IF you use the separate outlet method (make them red or orange) then the TV and Sat receiver will operate off the inverter full time, and the presence of the honda will not matter.
IF you use a transfer switch. Read on
these come in two types Automatic and Manual. ONE form of manual is described above (separate outlets)
Another is a proper DPDT cener off break before make Transfer Switch, TRANSFER switches often need to be double tapped to switch from one source to the other this is a safety feature.
This is the kind of switch I use for one circuit in my rig.
The AUTOMATIC switches (I have one of those too well two technically) sense when power is coming in on one of the two lines, (Usually that input is marked GENERATOR) You run shore power to this input, and the inverter to the other input, if shore power (Such as from the HONDA) is present it will switch to it, if not, it Drops back to the inverter
For your install, I recommend the outlet method.
First, Insignia is Best Buy Store brand, if you know the model of the TV they may be able to find a remote, usually around 50 bucks
Second, many Universal remotes out there, Some have a lot of options.
Finally. For my Dynex.. EBAY worked
Two types of tanks, different instructions.. First mounted tanks in most motor homes have a MECHANICAL gauge on the tank itself. This is fairly accurate, the remote indiactor inside is subject to all sorts of issues but the dial on the tank is usually good.
Also you can use the thunk method and the heat tape method (Actually the tape is an LCD crystal that is sensitive to temperature You apply the tape to the tank (it is either adheasive or magnatic) heat a pot of water on the stove using the Propane and dump it over the tape,, The color change will be clear in most cases.
Portable tanks can be scaled, Thunked or you can use the same LCD tape.