I actually know how those work,, They are vibrators basically, or choppers
You have, basically, a relay in side the box. And possibly a small condenser.
The relay is normally closed, that is the HOT (Battery) wire is connected to the output (METERS) wire. and to the condenser.
As the voltage rises the magnet coil pulls the relay open, Now the condenser is powering thigns,, This does not go on long, but the coil now drops the armature (since the voltage, and thus the current, is falling) and it returns to connected state, then the voltage rises and the magnet pulls the armature in again, opening the relay and.. This happens several times a second.
Thus it is a chopper.. chopping the incoming voltage to lower it.
Converter size should be 30% of battery bank C/20 Amp hour capacity
Example, 100 amp hours (C/20 rate) = 30 amp converter (so a 35 is what you would get cause,, Well, 35 you can get)
Battery size Type and capacity chart (Recommend upgrade by the way)
Type is "most common in RV use"
Group 24 Marine Deep cycle 75
Group 27 Marine deep cycle 95-100
Group 29 Marine Deep cycle 100-105
Group 30 marine Deep Cycle 130
GC-2 (6V) DEEP CYCLE 210-230 amp hours (You use two in series, voltage goes up (12) Amp hours remain the same) This is the recommended upgrade to if they fit.
A GC-2 fits a Group 24 tray but is taller
Total your amp hours (IE: A pair of GC-2s would be perhaps 220, multiply by 0.3 and you get 66 amps. So a 60-70 amp converter is good.
I am told that many of the Rich go camping.. For example the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court.
Now you do not get rich by wasting money so his RV can often be found parked overnight at.....Wal*mart.
(I can just see some overzealous cop not understanding the difference between private property (Wal*mart lot) and public property (Street) writing him an overnight parking ticket.....
Oh that would be fun.
Well, you will gain TIRE capacity, reduce the odds of a blow out and increase tire life as well as bearing life (Cooler not turning as fast).
What you will NOT do is increase the RV's cargo carrying capacity. That is a function of the axle and springs.
Not compatible with RV outlets but they would work on my HD outlets.. I might consider them...
I have two HD outlets, one on each leg, both have nightlights plugged in (But not the type the video shows, these are NE2 lamp/resistor types with rubgberized housing that is very hard to break and pass through outlets so I do not even loose the hole in the wall power comes out of). The reason for the lights.. IF THEY ARE DARK.. i have a power problem (Tripped breaker, park, or lost mains entire park).
I've never had to take a battery out of any of my other cell phones so what would be the big deal of not being able to take it out?
The battery has at the most a life of 3 years, But with modern Cell phones it can be just one or two years... I have replaced the battery in my S-III. So that is the problem.
The batteries get old and die.
If both of you have motor homes which were birthed in the same place.. Check with the manufacturer to see if they have parking for you in Elkhart.. Some do, Some do not.
I you are a member of the Moose.. Elkhart lodge has plenty of parking NO HOOKUPS AT ALL,,,, Just parking, nothing more.
If they think you are going to hand over the check before you have the rig inspected.......
I have one question: What are they hiding.
I think you need to go back with two inspectors.. You personally need to set up a 4 way meet.. You, Your inspector (whom you introduce to the dealer) the dealer and one other person whom you introduce as your friend.
He too is an inspector..... from the department of motor vehicles.
You talk about how cold it is outside while you are sitting (Inside one assumes) drinking Iced Coffee.
I recall when I was working and I'd turn on the air conditioner, which was designed to work with very low outside temps... The troopers would say "Are you crazy, do you know how cold it is outside?" I would tell them yes I do but I'm not outside.
In addition to the building heating system we had enough computer hardware in there to match the amount of heat I use heating this 38 foot 3 slide motor home in the coldest weather we have here in GA. So the room got very hot.
Thus we needed the A/C.
Connect them in parallel, When they die (Which can be anywhere from 1 to 10 years from now) replace them (If you have the headroom) with a pair of GC-2 Golf Car batteries wired in series,, These are TALLER than the Group 24 but should fit in the same tray otherwise.
But since you now have the G-24's Use 'em.
Paralling older and newer batteries.. Many will warn against that but I've been doing it for years, there is a very slight danger,, but any time you put two batteries even consecutive serial numbers in parallel that danger exists and it remains the same. So do not worry about it.
(The danger,, one of 'em has a couple of cells short and "Explodes" spraying the battery compartment with acid... Strange thing is the odds of the new battery failing in this manner are almost exactly the same as the old one doing it, in fact I had a battery fail in this manner (it was not in parallel so it did NOT explode) in about 1 week from installation, (Thankfuly it had a lifetime warranty)... The "explosion" happens because if 2 cells short you now have a 12 volt and an 8 volt battery in parallel, the 12 tries to charge the 8, way faster than it should charge, so it goes POP.
The battery in the van is likely less than 100 amp hours capacity, that's not a lot of power, it means you only have about 200 watt hours of usable battery storage.
The alternator (With the van engine running at idle) is only putting out about enough to run the van
Finally you have the low current connection to the battery (Clamps)
and the connecting cables.
Finally MSW inverters (Small ones are usually MSW) may act strange with some loads.
Depends on the battery charger.
A 10,20,or 30 amp charger will be slower than the 55 amp WFCO.
However this assumes the WFCO is working properly.. They have a high failure rate and the most common failure is that it will not go into BOOST mode (Highest output).
So if yours is not workign properly, Upgrade the guts to a Progressive Dynamics.
True Story, thank fully I'm in a class A and have a genny.
Pulled in and set up, all was good,, Digger O'Gray (not his real name) was operating a back hoe digging a foundation trench for some park improvements.
Dug right through the primary high tension line feeding the park......
Took 'em 3 days to power the full park back up, Thankfully the section I was in was brought back up in only a few hours but much of the park was 3 days dark.
20/20 hindsight, but by letting off the gas you probably made the rear tires lose grip and that's when it all started!
Not an instinctive reaction, but knocking the truck into neutral may have avoided the skid. Got this advice from a Canadian Police Driving Instructor friend.
Interesting.. I figured that out on my own, Used it a few times too.
I recall one day I hit a patch of black ice,, Popped it in neutral, fought it down cussing teh steering gear on the old Impala something fierce (Car had power steering but the steering gear was from a non-power car so it took many turns to get it all the way).. Got control back, dropped back in Drive and SLOWED down.
passenger was white as a sheet "How can you be so calm"
Well, back when it was exciting,, i was kind of busy
And not that we are back under control, nothing to get excited about.
I use the recreation gov site as well.. Never had any problem finding the campground entrance. COE parks usually have nice level sites and 50 amps The only thing I have found is some o the site descriptions are a bit off.
For example one said "Max vehicle 24 feet, tents and PUPS only" (ok I shortened it) I put my 38' Class A on with room or the towed, either in front or behind, No problem.
I you want to boil water fast......
You can get some monster propane burners (Look or turkey fryers)
But a common Coleman Stove (the kind that uses liquid fuel) will make heat like you won't believe, in fact for many purposes you can not turn it down far enough.
if it's a big pot get the two burner kind (post must cover both burners) just fire them both up.. CAUTION, these can MELT steel if it runs dry.
Would this be considered a dogbone?
the other kind where you have a round or triangle shaped "Block" with a plug on one side and an outlet on the other,, I call that a PUCK adapter cause if you cut the pins off it's a hockey puck.
There are two bulbous ends (plug and outlet) with a skinny "bone" (the pig tail lead) between them.
Lay it on a table and trace around it and you draw a dog bone.
Hence the name.