First: it is possible he was not given the rules in writing.
Second, Seems to me Americans with Disabilities would also apply since the RV was customized to provide support for a disabled American.
But, I am not a lawyer.. I like it when HOA's loose though.
I do have an old Unlimited Verizon data plan.......last Thanksgiving week we used 18 gigs of data in 7 days.......
There you have it 18 gigs in 7 days, that's over 2 gigs per day. My data plan would max out in about 3 days.
And if you burn that kind of bandwith in a park during prime time.. GOOD LUCK and you will not be loved.
So if like 96 Bounder you have an unlimited bring your own plan.. Go For it.
I toss a lot of video around this RV being has I have two very chatty DVR's I just checked a 3 hour movie is 2.44 GIGS. on my DVR's. Modern compression methods (these are last century products) can do a bit better but for best quality. not much better.
(This video all runs over wires, not Wi-Fi for the most part. and none of it sees the internet it's all intra-(LAN)net
i was wondering if i don't use a reg will i get more water pressure and do i have a chance of blowing a water line on the motor home
The answers (yes answers) are: IT depends.
Where I am just now the campground is feeding me about 42-45 pSI, my regulator is set to 50 so it is running wide open, My regulator is a 3/4" Zurin whole house type (Adjustable with bell shaped housing comparable to a Watts of the same size) Removing it from the line (Which I may well do) will have no effect at all.
I also have a couple of the older "Standard RV" type regulators, these are brass cylinders, ONe is a standard unit, the other a high-flow (this one has a bright colored band on the female end) these restrict flow big time so if I were to put them in line I would notice a great difference... Best place for these is on the hook/shelf at the store. DO NOT BUY THEM.
My Sur-Flo (And my Watts) are both old in need of re-building, so they too reduce flow.. that will be fixed when I get rebuild kits.
So the summary is: IF you have a good non-restrictive regulator and the park is providing pressure less than or equal to the regulator setting so it is running wide open, removing it will not improve pressure,, If you have the cheaper cylindrical design jobs, reomoving them WILL improve flow (not pressure, but the difference is more than I care to type).
BUT if, like one park I stay at, pressure can easily exceed 100PSI.. Then removing the regulator can blow valve seals and your fresh hose. (Regulator goes at the park end of the hose by the way)
Moral: always use a good pressure regulator
Watts (1/2 inch or larger) Zurin (1/2 inch or larger) Valterra Adjustable model.. Sur-Flo (I give the Sur-Flo a 9 when new, Mine is down to about a 3 on the old 10 scale, but as I said, needs rebuild)
I live in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377w ROOF has no tribble with my 300+ pounds and in fact there has been occasion where I've been up there with another person not far removed from that weight (Say 250).
Ladder..... Came right off the motor home in my hands.. The ladder itself was strong enough (Though I never had a good feeling) the mounts were not.
I replaced it with a pair of custom made J hooks (Made from diamond plate bumper metal) and a shower assist bar (Stainless steel) the J-Hooks are at the top (roof level) bolted into framing lumber, the shower bar at the bottom.
A Convertable Extension/step ladder my dad originally bought at Sears long ago hangs on the hooks. and is bicycle locked to the shower bar.
Batteries----T---Switch-Breakers--Most of the RV's ssytems including convrter and alternator/isolator
T-very few systems like steps (may be on chassis) and the SWITCH mentioned above.
OPTION 1: (Suspect 1) Switch is open, that is salesman switch (Usually just inside of door) has been set to Store/Off/Disconncted may be marked USE/Store or AUX battery.
Option 2: On some systems the circuit breaker is MANUAL reset, for example on a Gasser with an Intelletec Battery Control System the schematic shows a pair of Post type (Push up, and hard, to reset) breakers extending through the bottom of the box.... Damon did not use them on my rig, they used a different system, but the idea is the same.
Option 3: Used to have a friend who's ham call ended in CNL, he said that meant "Connections NOT loose" we said "Connections NOW loose" but ... Well, bad connection, battery, battery ground strap or other.
I have not had the best of luck but to post photos you are supposed to be able to go to this link:
Post Photo Link
And upload them there, then get the url for the photo and link it in.
I have my own dropbox account and .... well here is a sample photo.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v8b36q6xqyd6541/Dinnertime%20Dogs.jpg?dl=0 height=403 width=403
But even then I can not get the IMG to post, (May be wrong type)
Ok, there are three things that often need to be done to a motor home, This is NOT in likelyhood order
Sway: Side to side rocking of the body, Think of fans at a rock concert holding up their lit lighters swaying side to side...
Solution: Sway bar.. you have one but a better one may improve.. LEAST likely
WAG: with leaf spring and solid (one piece) axles the body can move, slightly, right and left, Often one end moves one way while the other moves the other, This gives the impression you are NOT going down the straight and narrow, even if you are.. You are kind of like the tail of the dog.
Track Bars, also called Pan Hard bars,, These positively LOCK the body in position (side to side) over the axle,,, NOTE: this is why independent front suspension was such a big thing when it came out on pick ups back in th 60s. IFS does not need a FRONT track bar, as the two half axles each run to the body and thus lock it nicely.. Likewise a car with STRUT suspension already has one.
But on a motor home most folks say the rear is where you need to put one first, I put it on the front,,,,, BIG DIFFERENCE.. I will do the rear later
Ultra Power track bar is my first choice if it fits your chassis.
(Well built, low cost).
Finally steering stabilizers,, These devices try to keep you pointed straight ahead,, The two I suggest are the Blue Ox Tru-Center and the Safe-t-steer with the adjustable center option. Both of these are easy to adjust if they need adjustment.. VERY EASY.
How big a difference do they make?
Ever see a movie or tv show where a novice piolt has to land the airplane.. They warn him but when he disengages the auto pilot to take manual control he still almost looses control.... THAT is how much difference it makes.
One thing to do is go topside and remove the "Hat" from that vent pipe.
On my coach the pipe you see is about what, 2" (Standard size) the pipe itself is like 1 1/2 inch inside that pipe with lots of room for liquid to drain back down inside the wall if you pull a Robin Williams...
Of course, this rig, won't push water that high, overflows...elsewhere,,,first.
I do not spend a lot of time on my cell but do sometimes like to sit out and join people.. Alas, I do not do that as much now that wife has passed on.
Oh, if you would like to move south a bit for warmer weather.......
I am in Southern GA, though temps do on rare occasion fall into the 20s not very often. Campground is about 24 sites, most 20/30/50 amp full hookup, and one cowboy church (far enough from campsites to NOT be a problem) Pastor of church is landlord,, not a lot to recommend this neighborhood (Few historical sites and such) but I like it (Well I have an added incentive, one darling daughter on the other side of town)
Well if you got to short to ground the white wire is the one to short.
But that said.. Wire nuts joining stranded to solid wire is not always the best chocie, I have had two such connections fail on me (The repair involved my big solder gun, some solder, and .. Let's just say it works better) evidence is overheating of that fitting, which may be caused by a bad connection.
Re-do that connection
Check breakers on generator as well.
To answer the O/P's question, yes that is a 30 amp RV to 15 amp outlet connector
To answer the question you did not ask: Yes that is a 50 amp Marinco INLET (plug) that matches the outlet on your shore cord
So you need (Already answerd) a 50 amp RV to 30 amp adapter to use that puck adapter.
As to running one A/C on 20 amps.. Done it many times.. In fact on 15 amps odds are good you can run ONE of the following, JUST ONE
Microwave, Air Conditioner, Water heater, Converter if batteries are hungry
(So plug in for an hour or two to let the batteries charge then turn on one other thing)
On 20 amp you can add the fridge to that list.
One Television will likely work as well but multiple and/or computers may put you over.
It is a numbers game, if you know the numbers it works.
To the O/P.. I will tell you a story.. The Lollypop cop (Public Relations officer) was speaking at my High School.. He explained how much he knows about cars
He knew where the gasoline went in
And where the money came out of.
(I suspect he knew quite a bit more but that was what he said)
He mentioned his wife also knew where the oil went in so she knew more than he.
MANY people are really that clueless when it comes to cars, trucks and RV's. Me,,,, Well I have done a major overhaul, I've replaced clutches, dropped and replaced Transmissions, U-Joints, brakes (pads, Shoes, Rotors and Drums) and more.
If you are not afraid to tackle a repair,,, Odds of being stranded are small.
IF a tire that is 20 PSI low on air is beyond your ability to inflate.. or worse yet, CHECK... odds increase a thousand fold..
As has been posted absorption fridge technology has been around over a century, It is used in commercial installations, has been used in homes and RV's. I will admit there is always a danger of bad things happening with ANY technology, many go on and on about the danger of fridge fires, this danger can be limited or practically eliminated by adding the proper safety devices.
Absorption Cooling is not as efficient as compressor type Fridges, so it uses more energy but.. For an RVer who boondocks, the fridge burns very little electricity when it is running on propane (Some older units might well not burn any but I'm not that old rv wise) it's just that it burns about 3-4 times the electricity a residential fridge would burn when running on electric.
When my Absorption unit fails I may go to a high-effiency all-electric (Burns less than half what a residential would burn) or I may just repalce the cooling unit.
Sounds to me like one of the batteries is either completly dead, and I mean DEAD, or shorted. You need to pull both batteries and have 'em tested.
Next: If they need to be replaced,, Remember Amp Hours, epically usable amp hours, are good things.
GC-2 Flooded wet cells (Six volt so you need two in series) 215-230 amp hours
And as these are deep cycle you can use up to half.
Group 24 Marine/Deep cycle are starting batteries, You should not use much more than 30 percent of their 75 amp horus (or about 25 amp hours each)
Group 27 is just under 100 amp hours, some brands are 100 amp hours
Group 29 is just over, likewise
Group 31 is 130 amp hours
Again all these are normally Marine/Deep cycle so limit your usage.
OPTIMA: multiply above by 60% (0.60)
Just for fun.. 12 volt 4D, you can get 'em in deep cycle, 230 amp hours, just like the GC2. That is one battery.
Except for the golf car batteires (Which become a 4D when properly installed) all figures are for a single battery