There are 2 reverse polarity protection fuses on the hook-up end of the converter. Check to make sure they are not blown. If they are, something is not hooked-up incorrectly. With the battery disconnected and the charge wizard disconnected, the output voltage should be 13.5 volts DC. If not and the fuses are good, the converter is bad.
As mention earlier, go on a snorkeling boat ride. Caption Cook state park is a good cove that boat rides go to. The DW wasn't sure, but once she got in, with a tube, got the face mask on and was showed how the snorkel worked, she loved it. The one we went on had a noon BBQ and was great. There is a hotel on the cliffs, that the giant Manta Rays come into at night to feed. There are night snorkeling boat rides near the Rays also, if you are really brave.
Jared, welcome to the forum, again. Do you have enough advice yet? WOW! You seem like the kind of people we, or most of the people on this forum, would not mind having as neighbors. Please let us know what falls out of the trees on this, and good luck.
I would find out everything I could about the HOAs, and if you are really bound by them. You will be surprised at what the Realtor is liable for. Check with Attorneys about this, as most times the first consul is free. You may find one that will take it on for a reasonable price. If you decide to stay, I would consider making life a little unpleasing for the offending neighbors, within the HOAs.
You are a victim. That is gel coat, not paint, but can be painted, with a color match spray can, for $15. I have donated, more than 1 job to people, because someone had tried to rip them off! That damage could even be considered normal wear and tear, assuming there is no hidden damage. I had a RV Dealer quote over $7.200 for a rear cap repair, that I had an Auto Body Shop quote $1,500 for the same repair. Go figure, a rip-off is a rip-off, no matter if it is a home repair, auto repair, or RV repair. If a company has to charge that much money to stay in business, they will not be in business long.
A lot of times, what appears to be scratches, is actually material rubbed onto the paint by the branches. I have found the just using a good clear/wax can remove most of the marks from the side. We use to take our MH down some narrow roads to get the camping spots we wanted. We actually got more scratches from moving things around the MH then when camping. We have used "Nu Finish Scratch Doctor" to remove any actual scratches.
Red Max Pro, a acrylic floor finish, and yes many on this forum have used it, including myself. It has held up better that the clear coat on the front cap. They no longer make, but a replacement is Zep high gloss, made by the same company, but costs twice as much.
Devoredude, Yours is indeed a true Class A MH. It has 2" side walls, full basement with heated tanks. The construction in on par with any Fleetwood MH made, material and constructions wise. Some even came with full body paint. You do not to be ashamed of any MH, or RV that you, or anyone has. Remember, most anything beats a tent.
The Terra started out as an entry level MH, with one step up into the interior. The basement storage, as it is, is like those on a TT, or 5th wheel. The walls were 1.5" thick, I don't think they had enclosed holding tanks, but could be wrong on that. They were only 8 foot wide on the outside. In 06, or 07, they replaced the Flair, which was really a Bounder, with less standard appointments. They have since reverted back to near the original Terra construction. If I'm incorrect, maybe current Terra owners can chime in. We looked at the Terra in 04, but when to a true Class A instead, as you got much more than the difference in price showed. It reminded us of our TT with a drive train.
First, the mileage would not be a deal stopper. As others have said, check everything in the house part for wear and abuse. Look in all of the cabinets, drawers and wardrobe. Make sure ALL the appliances work properly. Make sure the water system does not leak anywhere. If you know little mechanical, them get a friend to help you check out the under side of the MH. You should be able to see the inside and outside disk brake pads, without removing the wheels. Take a pry bar and make sure all of the steering and suspension parts are in good condition, with no missing bushings anywhere, especially the sway bars. Ask questions about things you have questions about. If you get answers, do they make sense? And, of course DRIVE it! If you are not happy, then you have made you decision. If it was a rental, it would be best to have someone, or company, check the black holding tank to make sure you are not getting a lot of trouble.
What you have described, is axle shift, under the frame. Get a bar, at least 18" long and pry on the pan hard bar to check the mounding bolts and the bushings. There should some loose parts under the rear to cause this. Check the bushings on the control arms the support the bottom of the air bags also.
You most likely have some rear suspension parts worn, such as bushings. Are you sure you have a pan hard bar on the rear? If you have a sway bar, check the end links, and the bushings that attach it to the rear end.
I assume you have checked tire pressures. Lets know what you find.
OK.... We had a pin lock from Walmart, cost less than $10.00. Lost the key, with a draw bar in the receiver of our pickup. Figured I would just pry the lock end off, yea, right. I then tried to beat it off, yea, right. Ended up using a 9" disk grinder for about 15 minutes, to grind the end off the remove the draw bar. I don't think anyone needs to worry about anyone removing the pin lock from your tow bar.
Your speculation about the previous owner is probably correct. I have done the same thing to get through until I could get the right fuses. Good on your part sticking with it, until you solved the problem. Everyone here will try to help, some more than others. Usually, a lot of different experiences/knowledge will make the problem easier to solve.
Thanks for getting back to us about the fix.
You could add a converter to your present TV, or remove and replace it with something the weight 40 pounds, or less. Depending on the size of the original TV cabinet, you may, or may not need to do some cabinet work. We pulled out a 29",(weighed at least 180 pounds), and replaced with a 32" LCD that weight 27 pounds. Your antenna does not need to be changed, unless it is not working now.
A lot of MHs do not have anything in the basement doors, except for the so called "dead air space", and the outside and inside door material. Insulation would make a difference, but to do the job, require the door to be 1.5" thick to do any good.