I agree. If one chooses a floating floor and than hard mounts heavy items on it, it SHOULD NOT work well.
Guess, like most things, if you want them to work, follow the directions.
For our floating floor, that means an extra sheet of 1/2" plywood to mount heavy objects and quarter round affixed to the wall to cover the expansion gap. And, yes, Dianne did a REALLY nice job of matching quarter round stain to the new cork flooring.
Now, all I have to do is finish installing the floor and put down the quarter round.
I suspect BOTH are the 8.9 liter ISL engine. It could be had in either 370 or 400 HP and with exhaust brake or engine compression brake.
I agree, you are very unlikely to notice a 30 HP difference if on the same engine. If comparing an 8.3 with a 8.9, there will also be a torque difference.
I will agree that floating floors are more work, as you have to mount any heavy objects off the floor and then install trim around the perimeter to cover the expansion gap, but I don't see that has a "don't use it".
As an example, our cork floor is 10.5 mm thick. I raised furniture, captains chairs, etc on 1/2" plywood cut 3/8" "smaller than the outer dimensions" of the furniture. So the flooring goes under the furniture, but is actually still floating. The other option is to leave a gap and then trim with quarter round. In fact, Dianne is out in the garage right now putting the second coat of stain/polyurethane on the quarter round.
Pros of propane generator:
Light weight when compared with diesel
Inexpensive when compared with diesel
No carburetor varnishing as in gasoline generators.
Cons of propane generators:
Use more fuel than diesel or gasoline (lower BTU per gallon)
Hours run per fill-up may be low-- depends on tank capacity
Now, my opinion: If you use your generator occasionally, propane is a fine choice. If you run your generator 24/7, a poor choice.
We are on our second coach with propane generator and it fits our needs just fine.
Dianne and I are in the process of replacing carpet and old damaged oak with all cork flooring.
We choose U.S. Floor floating click together cork floor. The cork is light weight, absorbs sound and is a good thermal insulator. So far, installation going very well.
As to whether this is a DIY project, that really depends on your skill set. Lots of work, but not rocket science. An old table saw and a couple of hand saws are all my "special tools".
Your approach is exactly on track.
If you don't hear a massive air leak with the engine running, and you know this is not a gauge issue (easy to check if you have an air chuck/hose) if there is a place you can get a couple of fittings, temporarily bypass the dryer (good parts for an emergency kit anyway).
If a fuel line issue, the generator will not continue to run smoothly.
Does it continue to run smoothly and continue to produce proper voltage on some circuits? If so, it is not a fuel line issue.
If the generator surges and/or voltage fluctuates, it very well could be a fuel line issue.
If fuel line issue is suspected, run the generator from a 5 gallon container of diesel direct to the generator fuel pump. That will eliminate the fuel line as a cause.
From an article I wrote for the FMCA Magazine:
ALLISON TRANSMISSION MODE BUTTON
BY BRETT WOLFE, F252125
The Allison transmission control module (TCM), which is the "electronic brain" that controls shifting and other functions of the transmission, has two different automatic gear-selection modes/programs.
In Economy Mode, the transmission will not downshift even at wide-open throttle until the engine pulls down to peak torque rpm in some applications and 200 rpm lower than Performance Mode in others. In Performance Mode, the transmission will downshift much earlier to maintain higher engine rpm.
Only at higher throttle positions is there any difference, so on flat ground you will not notice any variation between the two modes, except when accelerating from a stop if you are at or close to wide-open throttle.
However, mode selection can make a big difference when traveling over rolling hills. If you drive in such areas while in Performance Mode (particularly with the cruise control on), it is common for the transmission to shift down to fifth gear on the uphill and back to sixth gear on the downhill, repeating this process hundreds of times. In Economy Mode, the transmission will stay in sixth gear unless the hill is so steep or so long that the engine cannot pull it without dropping below peak torque rpm. According to engine manufacturers, the most economical way to climb a hill with a modern turbocharged diesel engine is in a higher gear (lower engine rpm), provided the engine doesn’t overheat.
If, while driving in Economy Mode, you know you will need a lower gear because of the steepness of the grade and/or the engine temperature is rising higher than the thermostatically controlled temperature, use the down arrow to drop a gear (this is what I do) or switch out of Economy Mode. Be sure to switch back into Economy Mode when past the steep section or you will be stopping at a service station for fuel sooner than you expected.
While you are driving in hilly terrain, if your engine begins to overheat, the engine’s horsepower-to-weight ratio is low, or it irritates you to lose a few mph in the name of saving fuel, by all means drive in Performance Mode.
It confuses me to hear people advocate driving in Economy Mode only on flat ground, as there is not 1 percent difference in shift rpm between Performance and Economy modes on flat ground, except when accelerating from a stop if you use wide-open throttle.
Every time you start the motorhome, the transmission is in Performance Mode. This is the default setting. If you push the mode button, it goes to Economy Mode and the light illuminates.
There is no absolute number that can be given to illustrate the difference in fuel economy that will result when driving in Economy Mode. On flat ground where you will be in sixth gear no matter what mode you are in, there will be zero difference. The most significant difference in mileage will occur in rolling hills, where in Performance Mode, particularly if on cruise control, you will start up a hill in sixth gear, go to wide-open throttle in that gear, and downshift to fifth gear still at wide-open throttle, where it is using a lot more fuel. After the hill is crested, the transmission will upshift to sixth, then likely coast a little in that gear unless you are driving with the exhaust brake on. If you are, the exhaust brake will be applied and the transmission will downshift toward the preselected gear, which is generally either second gear or fourth gear. And so the process will continue, with the transmission shifting up to sixth gear on the downhill, back down to fifth gear on the uphill, etc. The problem with this is that a modern turbocharged diesel engine is much more efficient at low rpm with high throttle settings.
Note: In either mode, you are free to use the up and down arrows to proactively choose the correct gear. You cannot screw anything up, even if you downshift to first gear at 70 mph. The transmission circuitry understands that you want to downshift to the next lower gear as soon as the engine rpm will not exceed the preset amount. Then it will downshift again when safe.
By the same token, you can shift between Performance and Economy modes as often as you want with the transmission in any gear when you make the change.
I drive in Economy Mode 99 percent of the time, including in the mountains. I use the up and down shifting arrows to choose the proper gear. I use Performance Mode only to pass another vehicle on a two-lane road, when I am willing to sacrifice a little fuel economy to gain a short-term burst of speed.
Would suggest you start the discussion with the real (and inexpensive) basics:
1. Have you weighted: best-- each wheel position, next best axle weights?
2. How does that compare with GAWR? VERY important on non-air bag axles. Less so on air bag suspensions.
3. Are tire pressures set properly for you weight per your tire manufacturer's recommendations. Clearly if tires are over-inflated, ride will be harsh.
4. How many miles on the coach and what shocks to you have?
5. Has the ride always been like this, or has it degraded?
I bought a tire pressure monitoring system (Can't remember the brand but it was fairly expensive). Are the pressure readouts on that considered pretty accurate? If not, what is the best most accurate way of measuring pressure?
Also - Can you pull off onto a truck weigh station and get your axels weighed or would they consider you a nuisence?
I would VERIFY your monitors against a good quality gauge.
And yes getting axle weights are quite easy around the country. I had to do it Tuesday to get a weight certificate for our "new to us" coach for registration. In fact, the county tax office handed me a copy of a list of places where it can be done. Took less than 5 minutes.
BUT, having only axle weights ASSUMES perfect left/right weight distribution-- something very unlikely in most RV's. So if this is all you have, you need to add, perhaps another 5-10 PSI fudge factor to account for left/right imbalance. But, do not exceed PSI recommendation of the tire or wheel.
In these types of threads we often have a mixture of "best practices" and "what I got away with".
It is important for everyone to understand that there is a DIFFERENCE.
Per the tire manufacturers (not my opinion), best practices is:
Weigh each wheel position when loaded as you travel.
Go to your tire manufacturer's inflation chart with the heavier wheel position on each axle to determine the correct MINIMUM PSI (that is what the chart shows). All tires on the axle get the same PSI based on the heavier wheel position. As a side note, particularly if you have air suspension, if side to side weights are WAY off, you need to get RIDE HEIGHT CHECKED. An out of adjustment ride height valve can shift a LOT of weight side to side.
Now, the "opinion part"-- like many I add 5-10 PSI to the minimum so I don't have to worry if we happen to have all tanks full, wife did a BIG Walmart run, etc.
And that PSI is always defined as COLD-- i.e. at current ambient temperature before driving. The tire manufacturers know and have accounted for the fact that PSI will increase as the tires heat up while driving, one side in the sun......
Clearly, if this started after mounting the new tires, the tires or mounting/balancing was an issue.
With tires that have been balanced twice and "symptoms" still occur, the answer is to check "tire run-out". Any reputable tire store has a run-out gauge. It takes only 2-3 minute per tire.
But, a perfectly balanced "egg" will, well still roll like an egg.
I don't like to see front tire run-out of over .35".
Agree with Donn.
It could be quite a number of front end components-- could be major wear/out of spec in one or a little out on several.
Our guessing won't do you much good. Take it to any truck front end shop and have them look at it.
Start with a good "DUAL FOOT" tire gauge. The straight part should allow you to check front and inner duals, the "cut back" part, the outer dual.
But, check your wheel covers to make sure this design will work on your specific application.
Wow-- OK I am Brett Wolfe aka Wolfe10.
And yes, I put Air Tabs on the top of the new coach. Have not put them on the sides-- have not found paint to match and have been told by the "boss" not to mess up the paint job.
My take on Air Tabs: Theory is solid-- find a modern air plane that does not use turbulence generators to "fool mother nature". The question IMO is if they help (they do). But no device is going to single-handedly convert a 35' shoe box into an aerodynamic vehicle.
Do they help with side winds/being passed by large trucks-- some. Do they help with MPG-- some. Do they keep the toad a little cleaner-- some.
If you are looking for a miracle cure, not sure there is any such thing. If you want a reasonably priced easy to apply product (assuming you can find Fusion paint to match your coach) consider them-- or not.