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Forum
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RE: Chocking Tires
I don't chock my wheels. Between the e-brake and the parking brake along with the levelers I feel real safe. In addition I remove my ignition key which makes it even tougher to raise the jacks. Also to get the tranny from Park to Neutral one would have to step on the brake while moving the tranny lever. For a kid to mess with all those items would mean they are not being supervised.
Now a travel trailer is a whole other story.
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zman-az
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05/20/13 05:12pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Enclosed ATV Trailer
We went away from enclosed trailers for ATV's due to the size required to pull just 3. The Razrs will be even worse unless you're only pulling one. You will end up with a very large trailer, that is very difficult to load even 3 machines and even one Razr. And the weight...width...height...heck...might at well pull a travel trailer. At the time we had only one guy in the group with an Burb that could haul our trailer, and it was not good. We soon dumped that and I bought a 3 place Triton that I have towed with a Honda minivan...now a Pilot...on nuerous occasions and we never looked back.
Similar experience here. If you can rent one I would do that first so you know how it will work. Other than the razor what kind of quads do you have. The full size ones are really wide these days. I would also stay away from the V nose. They work great for snowmobiles but most ATV's are wide.
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zman-az
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05/20/13 11:23am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Beware of Flying J
I wish the CC companies would do something as it is not fair to CC holders or debit card holders to pay more.
You do realize that every retailer out there that takes credit cards pays around 2-3% to the credit card processor for you to use your credit card. When you pay cash at a gas station the retailer does not pay the 2% so they are giving you an option to save money.
That being said I think all fuel prices posted on signs should post the highest fee one would pay and then offer discounts after they suck you in.
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zman-az
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05/17/13 10:50am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Off-road capable RVs
I have done alot of offroading and I think people can underestimate (and overestimate) what a vehicle and trailer can do. Depending on their offroad experience a easy road for some will seem impossible for others.
I have seen 5vers and TT in some really rough area's. These campers all have the axels flipped underneath the leaf springs (stock is above the springs) for extra ground clearance. Rocks and rough terrain are not uncommon for these folks. These trailers are being pulled by 4x4 trucks with mild lifts with a slightly larger than stock tire size. Basically if the truck can make it up the road in 2wd the trailer can make it when in 4wd.
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zman-az
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05/14/13 01:51pm |
Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
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RE: intel-core vs AMD
As mentioned processor is only part of the speed. Motherboard, video card, memory and hard drive make a difference. The new SSD's are a game changer in computer speed.
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zman-az
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05/14/13 01:15pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: swap 5k lbs hitch to a 10k lbs hitch
Note the words tow and hitch. Most 2" receiver hitches are sold at 5,000 or 10,000lbs. Then there is the tow rating of the motorhome. Engine, driveline, weight and frame strenght will generate this number. Then you take the lowest value of the motorhome or the hitch and that is your tow rating.
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zman-az
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05/14/13 01:04pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: lack of a/c outlets
An example of design neglect, why would you put just 1 outlet in the bathroom next to the sink and not make it run off the inverter? Just ask a DW about her hairdryer/curler convenience.
That is because blow dryers use an extreme amount of power. There are few RV's that have an inverter large enough to run a blow dryer let alone the fast drain it would do on your batteries.
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zman-az
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05/14/13 09:57am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Dingy
The Wrangler is easy to set up and makes a nice toad but it may not be the right car for you. It's noisy, rides rough and if you get a 2 door, the back seat is very difficult to get in and out of for guests. Make a list of 3-4 vehicles you are interested in and go drive them. This will probably be a daily driver so you want something YOU can enjoy driving.
I got three Wranglers and I agree completly with this post. I also have a 2011 Grand Cherokee and 2002 Malibue and they are way more difficult to setup for flat towing.
If you remove the steering wheel lock from the 1997 and up Wrangler you won't have to pull fuses and you can remove the keys while in tow. Also the tow bar is the easiest to install along with access to electrical for the tail lights.
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zman-az
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05/13/13 03:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Trager Portable Grill electric use Boondocking
Found out more on the Traeger. Uses 500 watts of electric for 4 minutes to light the pellets. Then it uses 50 watts an hour.
If that is true and you have a good battery bank I would fire up the genny for the first 5 minutes and use the battery/inverter for the rest.
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zman-az
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05/13/13 03:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Highway Question?
This road is doable in a RV, but plan extra time as the two mountain passes will limit your speed. I would plan on an extra hour of drive time to make it over the passes compared to a passenger car.
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zman-az
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05/13/13 03:11pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: side mirror broken, what now?
My wife was able to break ours on it maiden voyage home from the dealership. I went thru the owners manual and found some information on the mirror as ours was a heated mirror. Ended up costing me $45 for the replacement glass with the new heating element in it. Install was a "snap". Sorry, can't remember the name of the mirror company that made them but the post above min may be it.
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zman-az
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05/06/13 05:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Class A under 30 ft.?
I got a 2011 Vista and we do alot of boondocking. The short wheelbase allows for a great turn radias as well as some extra power for towing as it does not have all the extra weight. He probably will not like the bed as its a short queen vs the standard full lenght queen. For him that is something I would watch out for.
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zman-az
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05/06/13 04:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Windshield shade/sun screen
We use tan shade cloth on the outside of our front window. In addition I opened up the cabinets above the driver seat and stuffed more insulation in there behind where the TV and cabinets are. There was nothing, zero, nada for insulation in that area. If you are letting a bunch of girls in your RV you will have quite the battle keeping it cool. Between the doors opening and the bodies your AC will probably never keep up.
We used our RV for our sons HS wrestling events. Nice to take a break in between matches and not go anywhere.
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zman-az
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05/06/13 02:41pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Very basic question about wiring for solar
http://handybobsolar.wordpress.com
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zman-az
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05/02/13 01:48pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Violent shaking front end
Wheel balance issue?
Usually a wheel balance issue/bad tire will expose a weakness in one of the other items listed in the post above yours.
To the original poster.
Have someone go inside the rv and turn the wheel side to side in short strokes. Look for loose steering componets and if its a solid axel front look at the bushings in the trackbar ends (bar that runs from axel to frame).
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zman-az
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05/02/13 01:32pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Determining tow capacity-help
Most hitches come in 5,000 or 10,000 rating. Then you have to factor the towing capacity of the RV's Driveline. Use the lowest rating to be legal.
There is also the capacity of the actual frame (which may have been modified by the RV mfg) on the RV which should always be above the hitch rating. So if the driveline can handle 10,000 lbs but the hitch is at 5,000 you better not replace the hitch without addressing the frame.
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zman-az
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05/01/13 12:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Rear end noise, anybody know what this is?
Doubt its the u-joints. Bad u-joints will make a clicking sound and change with RPM's.
The problems is most likely in your rear differential. It could be as simple as a worn bearing or bad gears (although I think your gears are fine). Either way the rear end will have to be taken apart. Anytime you take a differential apart there is huge labor costs as the gears need to be properly re-installed with shims. Any one can rebuild a differential, but getting proper backlash, gear mesh and inch pounds setup properly on the pinion takes a "great" mechanic with the proper tools. If its under warranty take it to Ford. If not and you know a mechanic that does a good job then take it to him. I would guess a minimum of $300 on labor plus parts. If one bearing is bad just best to replace them all as installing the bearings is the easy part, again the labor is in the alignment.
One thing I would not do is drive this thing around. If you do it could leave you stranded and cost even more to fix.
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zman-az
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05/01/13 10:14am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How are you top charging frequently?
Solar Plus.
Of course you need to have solar panels in the sun. I will fire up the genny in the morning to make coffee and do a quick charge on batteries. Then solar will take car of me for the rest of the day.
I would enjoy camping and not worry so much about topping off batteries everyday. Your not going to extend the batterylife by that much. As long as the batteries never get fully discharged they will last a long time.
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zman-az
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04/29/13 01:43pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: F53 22,000 chassis factory anti-sway bar
When I did the front I also used the same links. It will put the sway bar at a higher angle. If you put new links on and leave the angle the same you have actually put it back to the original position.
Not true.
For the sway bar to be most effective there needs to be a 90* angle between the swaybar arms and the sway bar itself. This cannot be done on the newer F53 chassis as there is a crossmember on the frame. However the longer aftermarket links help you get closer to the 90* mark using the original factory holes on the frame side with the holes closer to the axel on the sway bar. If you could move the frame mount the same distance as the swaybar second hole you would have the optimum setup for less front sway.
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zman-az
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04/26/13 03:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Class As that are rated to tow 7000lb??? Up to 36feet
Your probably not going to find much in between 5,000 - 10,000. Most of the receivers/hitches I see built today are rated at 5,000 or 10,000. Motor homes are going to use those ratings. So if the motorhome could tow 7,000lbs good chance it will have a 5,000lb hitch on it.
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zman-az
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04/26/13 10:09am |
Class A Motorhomes
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