| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Monaco Step Well Cover Air Cylinder
Thanks guys.
If there would have been many documented threads on the internet I probably wouldn't have posted it. However, I did some quick searches and came up with nothing so I thought I would document it so hopefully the next person will have an idea what is involved.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/28/13 12:46pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
Monaco Step Well Cover Air Cylinder
During the last trip of last year our step well air cylinder became disconnected from the step well cover. This has happened once before as the nut on the end of the air cylinder came off and the rod moved freely without being connected to the cover. That was a quick fix of simply removing the end cover and re-installing the nut to the end of the ram.
However, this time it was the other end that became disconnected and a little more time consuming to get to. I had done a search and came up empty handed so I thought I would throw a thread up because I am sure I am not the only one who has had this happen and it really is a simple repair.
This repair should cover most of the late 90's thru about 2004 Monaco coaches with the front door entry. I beleive in either 2005 or maybe as late as 2006 Monaco went away from the air cylinder and installed an electric step well cover.
First off remove the cover or face of the step well cover. You have to extend the step well cover and while looking up under the backside you will see four screws holding the cover/face piece onto the metal angle that the air cylinders rod attaches to.
http://i49.tinypic.com/vgkhuw.jpg
If you are lucky enough to just have had the nut come off of the end of the ram then this is as far as you need to go. Put the nut back on, I prefer to use some blue Loctite but that is up to you. If the nut is still on here and the other end of the ram is the loose part then you must remove this nut and continue onward.
http://i46.tinypic.com/25s0sn5.jpg
Once the nut is removed and the rod is free from the front of the step cover, you must remove the four screws on each side of the step cover which hold the cover to the slides/tracks. These are not hard other than you kind of have to stand on your head to get to them. Once the step cover screws are removed you can remove the step cover and gain some access to the air cylinder. No need to remove the large angle iron bracket on the face of the step cover that the rod and the cover face attach to.
Look up inside and you can see the cylinder end of that is loose/disconnected from the body or floor.
http://i48.tinypic.com/9869w1.jpg
Make certain the rod is retracted and you can flop the cylinder end for end to get to the broken bolt. Here you can see the configuration from Monaco. Not the best in my opinion. There is some oportunity to have the bolt rock back and forth the way it is bolted from the factory. Although I can't say it is a poor design or a problem because it has lasted 10 years and 90k miles, however, I have a solution that should be a permanent fix.
http://i45.tinypic.com/2qkhyps.jpg
I made a block out of .500" thick carbon steel and drilled and tapped it to 1/4"-20 so I could thread a piece of allthread through it and put a nylock nut on the top holding the cylinder to the block. The block is just large enough so it will fasten tight to the floor of the step well rather than the cylinder being the point of contact with the floor.
http://i48.tinypic.com/10o2seu.jpg
Here is the underside of the block with the 1/4"-20 allthread threaded through it. I tightened the nylock on the top of the cylinder to the block so I could just tighten the assembly to the floor from underneathe the coach. This will drop into the hole and the whole assembly will be attached by a nut from underneathe.
http://i46.tinypic.com/97pg5s.jpg
Here it is dropped into position and ready to be bolted from the underside.
http://i47.tinypic.com/1sigrl.jpg
Access is obtained by pushing the generator out the front of the coach and above the generator there is a section of spray on insulation. Remove that and there is the access for the attachment point. It is covered with metal covering but there is a whole cut where the attachment point is, after installing the washer and nylock locknut I covered this area with a black sealant to protect any moisture from getting into the wood and under the metal covering which covers the underside of the coach.
I assembled using a large fender washer to spread the load agains the plywood structure.
http://i48.tinypic.com/2u5e5mt.jpg
That is it, not a bid deal but I hope this will help anyone who has this bolt break and is unable to find any other information.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/28/13 07:11am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: What did you do to your Class A MH today???
Thought I would revive this thread seeing as how I haven't done anything to ours for the last several months due to being in storage and the stinkin' snow we have accumulated this winter.
However, last night was a different story. I got it out of storage on Monday afternoon and took it yesterday to get the emissions done and taxes paid for the new year.
Upon returning home I decided to fix the step well cover that became disconnected on our last trip last fall and I didn't have time to fix it.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/28/13 05:58am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Tag Axle workings
On the Monaco tag axles air pressure forces the tag axle downward and is regulated by an air pressure regulator in the rear engine bay. This is adjustable but should be adjusted based on weight of the coach and placement of that weight. Weighing the coach and then adjusting will give the best performance.
When the switch is activated the air is "dumped" from the tag axle and a spring mechanism overcomes the weight by a fulcrum arm and raises the tag tires from the ground. Not much only an inch or two but enough to eliminate the scrubbing while making tight turns.
This is also only available to do when in reverse or first gear. Once the transmission shifts into second gear it overrides the switch position and lowers the tag axle applying force/weight.
On a side note, I also recommend not raising the tag when in a campground which has somewhat uneven gravel roads. The tires do not raise enough to compensate for any irregularities in the terrain and when applying the brakes the tag axle tires will actually lock up due to no rolling pressure on them. This in turn digs some pretty good "trenches" in the gravel road. Don't ask me how I found this out.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/27/13 09:55am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Tag Axle workings
Tom,
I believe there is a fuse and maybe a relay in the front run box. I've never had a reason to investigate mine so not much help.
This is correct. The relay and fuse are in the left front run panel. Mine has a label on the relay that says "TAG".
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/27/13 08:16am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Pulled the trigger, new MH 2006 Country Coach Magna
Congratulations. The CC Magna is a beautiful coach. I hope you have many wonderful miles and memories in it.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/26/13 11:09am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: 34 foot Winnebago
The only "shorter" DP that I have had any direct experience with has been the Winnebago Journey. A good friend of mine bought a 2003 back in 2004. He was looking at a 32' so he could still tow his enclosed trailer. He was very adamant about staying under 65' total length.
He brought over a 32' and we took it on a drive. I was not that impressed as I thought it porpoised quite a lot. I was also trying to talk him into something larger than the Cummins 5.9 engine.
I talked him into going back and driving the 34' with the 330 CAT. Personally I thought the difference was day/night. That turned out to be the one he and his wife purchased.
Directly after taking delivery, they headed for a six week long trip to Alaska. Upon their return they were still very happy with the coach.
I also agree the chassis design plays a bigger role over just a blanket size requirement, but in that particular model I don't think I would have gone smaller than 34'.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/26/13 11:05am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Ruby's Campground Bryce Canyon City Utah Opinions
Anyone ever stay there in early to mid March at the RV park? Thanks.
Yes, several times. A couple of years ago we were there when they still had huge piles of snow in the campground as well as the sides of the road in Bryce NP.
The only downside I noticed was there was a little too much mud in the campground for my liking. Other than that it was nice and quite as there were only about a dozen rigs in the campground.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/25/13 06:30am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: 2011 Jeep Wrangler
" It would be waaaaaaaaaaaaay down most peoples list as a daily long distance driver."
"MOST peoples list..."? Somehow I doubt that. MANY people, perhaps, but not MOST! I have put several thousand freeway miles on my '06 Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited. I find it quite comfortable with the cruise control set at 70 MPH and the air conditioning on. True, it doesn't have power windows or locks or keyless entry or power mirrors or 8 way power seats or any of the other "convenience items" that some folks find absolutely necessary, but then it isn't packing all that extra weight, either!
One of my sons has a 2012 Wrangler. He isn't a bit concerned about taking off on a long trip in it, and it is, in fact, his only vehicle! (his is too fancy, I like mine better!)
They say "It's a JEEP thing, you wouldn't understand!" In many cases that is true!
Same here. My 2011 JKU Rubicon is my daily driver and my son has a 2004 Wrangler Unlimited that is his only vehicle (besides his Buell) and is his daily driver.
We just went on a Jeep outing with our Jeep club last weekend and drove about 75 miles on the interstate before hitting the backroads to get to the trails. Loved it the whole way, especially seeing ten Jeeps lined up cruising down the highway.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/25/13 06:28am |
Dinghy Towing
|
|
RE: towing a car hauler behind my 38' overland
I would be more concerned about overall weight of the trailer and tongue weight vs. length. I towed a 24' enclosed trailer behind our 38' Beaver with a 300HP CAT for seven years and approx. 60k miles. I did however beef up the OE hitch quite a bit.
Length put me around 68', the coach weighed right at 29k pounds and the trailer loaded with sand toys was 8500 pounds.
My current setup is a few feel longer and quite a bit heavier but tows great.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/11/13 08:59am |
Towing
|
|
RE: Winch bumper and tow bar compatibility
Zmotorsports, Do you have the drawings for the towbar that you installed on your JK? We've got a laser cutter at work and making my own would be a lot cheaper.
Sorry, I don't. When I was fabricating mine I should have made some templates or even a second one but wasn't thinking.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/11/13 05:45am |
Dinghy Towing
|
|
RE: Carefree of Colorado Slide out awning
Check to see if the stitching is degrading due to UV exposed mine failed so we ordered a new acrylic fabric and made sure both springs are working. During the replacement the springs were retentioned.
This is why ours failed. The bedroom slide topper let loose due to the stitching was UV rotted/deteriorated. When we arrived back home from the trip I opted to install all new slide toppers and window awnings rather than merely replace the fabric. Main reason is that I wanted to newer style cases with the anti-billowing deflectors that came on the year or two newer coach that ours. Just updated it a little. Glad I went that route but it was quite a bit more money than merely replacing the fabric.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/07/13 05:49am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Winch bumper and tow bar compatibility
Thanks for the pictures and the explanations! Your bumper looks great!
No problem. Hope that gives you an idea.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/07/13 05:45am |
Dinghy Towing
|
|
RE: 2011 Jeep Wrangler
The ticking Pentastar is not as common as one would think if you believe the internet. I know, I know they can't put anything on the internet that isn't true. That said, the Pentastar is actually a pretty good engine.
I highly considered it but my decision was based on either getting a 2012 and driving it stock for a while due to my budget or get a used 2007-2011 and have money left over to build a killer off-road rig.
I opted for the latter and stumbled across a pretty good deal on a 2011 with only 3208 miles on the odometer. The owner was one of those who absolutely just had to have the newest, latest and greatest Jeep on the market and his loss in depreciation was our gain in an almost new Jeep. The 80 more horsepower would be nice but overall I am happy and with all of the mods I have done to ours I think we will be happy with it for a long, long time.
I agree that with the money some are wanting for their used Jeeps, a new one is a good option but if the right deal came along on a used one, especially if someone had a bunch of accessories loaded up on it, I wouldn't pass it by. Even a new Pentastar powered Jeep loaded up with off-road accessories (ie. weight) isn't exactly a ball of fire. It is still a lot of weight to get moving.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/05/13 04:24pm |
Dinghy Towing
|
|
RE: Winch bumper and tow bar compatibility
zmotorsports , do you have some better pictures of the Grand Cherokee? You said you manufactured the bumper by yourself, do you have some more details on this,or some drawings of it. I am planing to do something like this to my Grand Cherokee, and any info from you would be a great help!
I don't have any plans but here are a few pictures of taken during the fabrication. Hopefully these will help.
Mike.
Bumper cover removed and relocation of the charcoal canister. Hard to tell in the picture but I merely cut the bracket and fabricated a new mount which raised the canister approx. 3" and tucked it right up tight behind the headligh assembly.
http://i49.tinypic.com/hv3uxf.jpg
A couple of the main pieces tacked into position.
http://i45.tinypic.com/wwfe6d.jpg
Welds ground, driving light buckets fabricated and installed and the lower vents cut in for airflow.
http://i49.tinypic.com/24dq45s.jpg
Another view of the finished bumper. The tow point measurements I got off of an actual Roadmaster bracket so the dimensions on my bumper were the exact same as the tow bar was designed to attach to from Roadmaster.
http://i46.tinypic.com/rarjer.jpg
I had also designed into the rear mounts of the bumper some safety chain attachments and I mounted the receptacle for the umbilical cord into the bumper. I also welded a small tab to mount the breakaway switch to. Simple hook up and go with no adapter brackets to rattle around. In addition I had a couple of custom "D" ring mounts that would slip in so I could use the towbar attachment points as recovery points if ever needed. I only used this setup for three years but it worked fantastic. Also the approach angle for the front end was greatly improved.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/05/13 05:53am |
Dinghy Towing
|
|
RE: Winch bumper and tow bar compatibility
Warrior products makes a product that mounts to the "D" rings and to the towbar but I took a different route, I fabricated my own bracket/crossmember assembly. I have had the adapter brackets in the past and hated the rattling that accompanied them after being unhooked and driving around. I also didn't like the time to remove the adapters. On my last Jeep Grand Cherokee I fabricated a new front bumper that not only assisted my approach angle, I also incorporated my towbar tow points into the design of the front bumper.
Here is a picture of the finished product after powder coating and installation.
http://i46.tinypic.com/4tkol4.jpg
On my 2011 Jeep JKU Rubicon I was also looking to do the same thing. I ran across a winch/bumper combo deal so I bought it rather than fabricated my own bumper. It is a Warn Elite off-road design and I have a Warn Powerplant winch/compressor on the bumper. I then designed and fabricated a towbar attachment crossmember that not only gave me a good solid point for attaching the towbar it also serves as a protection crossmeber for the electric sway bar actuator. The crossmeber sits just below and behind the bumper so as to not interfere at all with my approach angle for off-roading and climbing around on the rocks.
Here is a link to the fabrication of my crossmember.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25704761.cfm
Current Jeep hooked up to the coach ready to head out.
http://i46.tinypic.com/350js3n.jpg
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/04/13 12:57pm |
Dinghy Towing
|
|
RE: 2011 Jeep Wrangler
If you are getting the 2011 just hook up, put the transfer case in neutral, trans. in park and go. No need to unlock the steering wheel or pull a fuse as you do not need to do this on a 2009 or later Jeep Wrangler.
Mike.
Here is link to the towbar crossmember that I fabricated for towing ours.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25704761.cfm
Here is our 2011 hooked up behind out coach heading out. It is sporting a BDS long-arm suspension system along with 35", 5.38 gears and RCV axle shafts. Tows great.
http://i46.tinypic.com/350js3n.jpg
|
zmotorsports
|
02/04/13 12:47pm |
Dinghy Towing
|
|
RE: Carefree of Colorado Slide out awning
You can add a turn or two to the drum which will tighten up the material. However, one thing to look at is see if the material is slack along the entire length of the awning. If the entire length is drooping then a turn or two on the drum will more than likely remedy the problem. If it is tight in the middle and the ends appear to be slacked or drooping there really isn't much that can be done because the drum will pull evenly on the entire length of the awning. The middle being tight will not allow the ends to pull in any tighter.
Sadly, most of the ones I have seen this is the case.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/04/13 09:44am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: '05 Holliday Rambler Endeaver 40 with 91000 mi.-too high ?
Sometimes against the wind and sometimes with it.
lol. I would like to know where this wind is that you speak of when traveling with it?:) I don't think I have ever witnessed that.
Anyway, our coach is a 2003 with the ISL400 Cummins and we just turned over 90k miles prior to putting it away for the winter a couple of months ago. The drivetrain as well as the house are in excellent condition and have many more miles left in her, hopefully. The only issue I am having is there are a couple of places where my clearcoat is starting to let go along the roofline but other than that it is in perfect condition.
Depending on the model, some hold up a little better than others as the manner in which they are constructed plays a role. Our previous coach, a 1991 Beaver Contessa, had 129k miles on the odometer when we sold it in 2006 and was in just as good of condition as our current one.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/04/13 06:06am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Opinions on New Surge Protector
Same here, never plug in without it. We have the Progressive EMS 50 amp hard wired version in our coach. That was one of the first mods I did to ours when we purchased it back in 2007, removed the factory one and installed the Progressive.
The only time I knew for absolute certainty it saved us some money and headache was about three years ago at the sand dunes. The campground was having issues due to the heat and everyone running their A/C's. We were watching TV and the power dropped out. Checked it and it was just under 100 VAC.
I killed the power at the pedestal and waited for a few hours for the voltage to come back up before I turned it back on. I heard afterwards that there were many campers with electrical issues due to the brownouts. I was glad I was protected. Don't know how many other times it protected us but that was the one I knew of.
Mike.
|
zmotorsports
|
02/01/13 05:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
