It also depends on whether one end of your slide is creeping out or both. If both are extending and you have the HWH slide mechanism more than likely it is the retract solenoic as Dennis mentioned.
However, if only one end of your slide is creeping then it is more than likely the hydraulic ram on that end of the slide leaking internally, or externally if you see evidence of a leak or hose leaking.
Thats the wonderful thing about us---some enjoy things others hate---and that is a good thing...I always made it a point to accept my neighbor. I might not like their blue house or boat in the yard but then again they might not like my DP and race car trailer and chickens in the back yard either....They, and I have a right to live as we want. Now lets hear it for HOAs!!!!!!!! Oh, did I mention that my neighbor is a mile away----and don't have a blue house?
I agree, how boring would it be if everyone had to have the same RV, same house or same trailer. Variety is nice.
Z we manufactured floor mounted pieces to lift your car enough to miss the trailer fenders when I had my shop. That street side door also provides the best breeze you ever saw in a trailer.......Most door car racers wouldn't be with out that door and you are the first I ever heard of that didn't like it--because of how it looked?
I fabricated some small aluminum ramps which I used for our street rod but didn't use them very often. I already know I am odd but I simply cannot stand the looks of that left side door over the wheel opening. Between the ramp door being down and the right front door open I get a nice breeze going through the trailer which helps with removing the fumes and heat from inside the trailer.
After having this trailer for 5 years now I don't miss that left side door one bit.
Sdbounderdiesel brings up a good point that I forgot to mention. On our older 24' enclosed trailer I had the exit door on the left (street)side which is supposed to aid in exiting the vehicle once inside the trailer. However, with our street rod it was so low that I couldn't open the door of the car due to the wheel well boxes which rendered the left side door useless. Just another hinge and latch on the outside which I hated the look of.
I generally pulled it into the trailer via a winch that I had fabricated a mount for on the floor of the trailer. For our sand toys the left side exit door was also useless as the sand rail was narrow enough not to have to use the door.
When we ordered our 26' Haulmark Edge in 2008 the salesman tried talking me into the left side exit door, I refused as I swore I would never have that option again as I hated the looks of it. I don't miss it as my Jeep is narrow enough that I can hug the right wheel well box in the trailer a few inches and be able to get out of the drivers' side door. I am a fairly large guy and it is tight but I can do it.
I also ordered the trailer with an 8k pound winch mounted under the front of the cabinet that works great to pull vehicles into the trailer and it is fairly quick. Simply pull the vehicle onto the rear ramp, pull the cable out from the notch in the front workbench, attach it to the vehicle and use the handheld controller to pull it into the trailer. Again, pretty simple and quick. Just another option.
Nice looking Executive. Looks very similar to the 1991 Beaver Contessa that was my wife and I's first diesel pusher. We loved the coach. We had it for seven years and it had 129k miles on the odometer when we sold it in 2007.
My only real two issues were the 3208 CAT was a little underpowered for that heavy of a coach and it had the MT654 Allison transmission, which was a four-speed. Had it had the six-speed I think it would have been geared much more favorable for the 300 hp engine.
I really liked the body style and got a lot of compliments on it whenever we traveled. We even towed a 24' enclosed trailer behind ours which I had painted to match.
When you get it post up some more pictures.
Zmotorsports, that is a great post on what you have done to your last three coaches. I really enjoyed reading your post and all the work you have put into your coaches. Your Dynasty looks nice on the signature picture.
Thanks, I appreciate that. Mechanically it is rock solid but there are a couple of places where the clearcoat is starting to show some age. I hope it will hold out a few more years and then I will have the entire coach repainted. I don't think we will be getting a different one for quite some time if ever. I really haven't seen anything I would trade it for, at least in our price range.
Thanks again for the compliment.
We tow a 26' Haulmark Edge race trailer behind our 40' Dynasty and love it. It does however, have some drawbacks. Campgrounds/sites are limited. I have found that if I can make reservations early enough in the year for future trips it is extremely beneficial. Spur of the moment trips can be hit and miss, usually miss, on getting a site large enough. I hate dropping the trailer at campgrounds although I have done it on a few occassions.
That said, we don't full-time so we carry our 04 Harley Ultra Classic and our 2011 Jeep Unlimited along with all of my tools.
I would definately get a trailer with an extended tongue and make certain it has electric brakes on BOTH axles. Other than that there are tons of options and manufacturers out there. Also, I have found it helpful to layout your cargo in an area marked out on the ground to really determine the size trailer you need vs. what you think you need. You will be surprised and will more than likely be needing a trailer a couple of feet longer than originally planned. We have gone from a 22' for a very short time, to a 24' for sixteen years and now a 26' for the past five years.
If you have any specific questions feel free to ask as I have towed multiple enclosed trailer behind all three of our coaches now for over 20 years of RVing. No regrets on towing the trailer although we do flat-tow at times as well. It really depends on the trip plans, whether we will be bouncing around a lot or staying at one location for several days/week. Also depends on whether or not we are taking the bike. I prefer to pull the trailer but I won't lie to you, it can be a bit of a nuisance compared to flat-towing.
I have painted sections of both of my last two coaches and the front of my current coach when I purchashed it.
My first coach was a 1984 30' Travelcraft. The side were painted aluminum down to the lower beltline. From there down including the compartment doors were fiberglass. The front and rear endcaps were of course fiberglass but gelcoated. I would polish out the endcaps and then after about six months they would die back again. I wanted them to match the sides which were very nicely done with automotive paint from the factory.
I also didn't particularly care for the color on the lower portion. I sanded the endcaps down with 220 on a DA sander. The gelcoat sanded very nicely but the stripes were painted on so I had to feather out those areas. I was able to match the colors of the stripes perfectly so I merely painted the endcaps then masked out the stripes to continue around just like the OEM had done them. I then clearcoated over the entire surface of the endcaps to bury the paint edges under the clear. I also splurged on the quality of paints, I used only PPG products and the clear that I used was a high solids urethane clear (DC2020).
The bottom section I sanded with the same 220 grit on a DA sander, then masked the beltline upwards with plastic sheeting. I applied an epoxy sealer, then two medium-wet coats of the color of choice (which was much nicer than the pinkish OEM color on the bottom). I then applied two-medium wet coats of clear followed by an over-reduced third coat which really helped flatten the clear out with almost no orange peel. This required very little buffing once everything dried. I did get a few bugs and trash in the clearcoat that required me to spot sand and polish those areas but at least I didn't have to sand/buff the entire thing.
It turned out awesome and we used the coach for six years before selling it and purchasing our 1991 Beaver Contessa. The people who bought it thought it looked like it had just rolled out of the factory.
On our 1991 Beaver I chased the peeling clearcoat almost the entire time we had it, eventually painting/clearing almost the entire thing.
On our 2003 Dynasty when we bought it the front 3M shield looked like crap. It took me the better part of a week to remove it. I completely removed the mirrors, wiper blades and the generator access cover which I painted seperately so I could get around the edges. I then sanded down the entire front end cap up to about the middle of the windshield on the sides of the "A" pillars. This would be the area where I blended the clearcoat due to being quite thin and less work blending.
I sanded the front end down with 180 grit on the DA to feather out and blend as many of the rock chips and damage from removing the 3M mask. I then applied a coat of high build urethane primer, again PPG product (K36). When dried I wet sanded it down with 400 grit wet sandpaper. I applied an epoxy sealer, then the colors which I was able to get the paint codes/mixtures from Monaco at the time. After the color I applied two-medium wet coats of clear followed by a third over-reduced coat to minimize orange peel, this little trick works fantastic. You just have to be careful to not lay this over-reduced coat on too heavy or it will run.
Upon completion again I had a few bugs I had to sand/buff out but other than that it turned out great. It still looks great now after 6 1/2 years other than a few rock chips. The front end cap is the best looking part on the coach. Unfortunately there are several other areas on the coach where the clearcoat is starting to peel. Also unfortunate is that I don't have a place to paint this coach, my last two I painted at my parents farm where I had no neighbors to piss off. I don't dare try to paint this thing in my driveway. I think I may be having to have the entire coach repainted within the next few years.
The wife and I are still working full-time so not as many miles as most. We generally spend around 70-72 nights per year in our coach and have been averaging around 6k miles per year, until this year. This year has sucked due to both of us working ourselves into more demanding positions at work. Our RVing has suffered as we have only been able to muster 4k miles this year and 50 nights in the coach so far for 2013.
This******had better change for next year. I think I enjoyed work much more when I merely wrenched and had less responsibilities and was only responsible for myself.
Okay, I will jump on the Dynasty band wagon here as well. We have been quite pleased with our 03 Dynasty. I agree with the "best bang for the buck". We noticed this as we were looking and were actually able to get a 2003 for the similar price of a 1999-2000 Exec/Sig loaded very similar except with the ISL rather than either the M11 or the ISM (depending on years). The Exec and Sig. have the higher HP/torque engines with the Allison 4000 series transmission but also have a 4.30:1 gear ratio whereas the Dynasty has the 4.78:1 gear ratio. The mechanical advantage of the lower gear ratio on the smaller engine helps dramatically as the Dynasty is a heavy coach. I would compare the Dynasty to the other two upper models as having the same meat and potatoes and less of the frills or "fluff" as the Exec. and Sig. models. Nothing wrong with that, I like fluff but in our price range we wanted a solid coach and didn't need as much flash, nor afford the flash. Ours was loaded up with all of the options we wanted such as air leveling, Aqua-Hot, walnut interior, triple roof air units and a 10k watt Onan QD all in a 40' coach(didn't want to go to 42'). Almost unheard of in a 40' coach but the original/previous owners who ordered the coach must have been tapped into my mind when they ordered "our" coach for us.:)
That said, I would suggest looking closely at a couple of things when looking at coaches. The Aqua-Hot units built in 2002 and earlier had the domestic water line wrapped around the exterior of the boiler tank held on by a heat transferring paste. This was a good design but in these units I feel they did a poor job of brazing/silver soldering the copper neck onto the steel boiler tank. I think they used too little of solder and didn't flow it out well enough.
When we purchased ours we had a glycol leak that took me a bit to locate. Personally, I think the previous owners knew this and this is why they opted to trade it in on a new coach. I finally narrowed it down to the Aqua Hot unit itself as the leaking point but could not pinpoint it exactly due to access being somewhat limited. I removed the Aqua-Hot unit and set it up on the workbench so I could do some bench testing. Almost immediately I noticed that the tank would not hold a vacuum but it would hold pressure. I had two testers in which I was using to locate the leak. It was right where the neck and boiler tank met. Easy fix, unsoldered the connection, cleaned and re-soldered it. I also added a bit more solder around the seam as some "added insurance" so it wouldn't happen again.
About a year later my aunt/uncle's 1998 Beaver Marquis developed the same exact symptom and I walked right the issue. Later my cousin's 1998 Signature developed the same exact leak.
In late 2002/early 2003 according to Aqua-Hot (previously known as Vehicle Systems Inc.) they redesigned their domestic line/boiler tank. Now the domestic water line runs internally in the boiler tank. I have heard it is a better design, however, I am not convinced it is better, just different design is all I am going to say. Where the copper fittings go into the steel tank there is a possiblility of leaking at this point of intrusion.
Now on to the chassis, you will love the Roadmaster S-Series chassis. It is a semi-monocoque design and is probably one of the best in the industry. Actually the Country Coach Magna and Affinity on the Dynomax chassis are very similar only with IFS. There is a long debate on IFS vs. outboard mounted airbags but that would be almost a book and there are already multiple threads on the subject if you would like to search. Personally, I like the outboard mounted airbags and the stability that it provides. The ride of the dual outboard mounted airbags is a little more firm compared to the IFS which feels a bit more "cooshy" if that makes sense. The Newells and Prevost coaches use a similar chassis design only more of a full mononocoque design.
One thing that I would suggest looking at on the Roadmaster chassis is where the tag axle vertical supports are welded to the main frame rails. Under normal driving conditions this should never be an issue, however, if for some reason the coach is towed improperly, such as with a front wheel lift, this puts extreme pressures on the tag axle. Pressures and force which the axle was not designed to handle. I have seen these vertical supports break loose from the main frame rails on a couple of coaches and the owners didn't even know it. And yes they had recently been towed. This is why Monaco, as well as other manufacturers, ONLY recommend towing their tag axle coaches via a lowboy trailer, not a front wheel lift.
In approx. 2008 model year Roadmaster S-Series chassis, they added some rather large gussets on these vertical tag axle supports. I was lucky to have a great dealer who let me use one of the new coaches he had on his lot to make some patterns. I fabricated and welded these gussets onto my older 2003 Dynasty (built on a 2002 chassis).
Sorry for the lengthy description but I don't think you can go wrong with the mid-2000 era Dynasty coaches as far as quality and amenities for your money. Ours just turned over 95k miles and is still rock solid going down the highway.
Our local Cummins/Onan dealer told me they routinely see the bigger Onan QD gensets go up to around 20k hours before any major work/repairs are needed.
That said, there are some service procedures that should be performed around the 3k hour mark.
When we purchased our 03 Dynasty it had approx. 2700 hours on the Onan 10k Quiet Diesel genset, I thought it was a lot but relaxed after talking to our Onan dealer. Upon doing most of the preventive maintenance on our coach upon taking ownership of it I tore into the genset and noticed that the belt was on its way out. It had a couple of nasty chunks taken out of it. I removed all of the covers and performed the 3k hour service a little premature but I am glad I did. I also changed oil, coolant, all of the filters, flushed cooling system, washed the radiator off and adjusted the valves. The valves actually didn't need adjusting as they were fine but the FSM recommended adjusting them. The tech at the Onan dealer also told me to not worry about the valves as he has never seen them out of adjustment until closer to 10k hours, however, I am a stickler for following the factory recommendations.
Ours currently has just over 3k hours and runs like a top. We have only put a few hundred hours on it in the six years of ownership.
To reiterate what Dennis said, WELCOME TO THE FORUM LEAH.
I could have worded that differently as well, we don't want to run you off as we really do want to help and make your RV experience a pleasant one.
If you could provide as much information about the chassis and the issue at hand as Dennis stated it would be very helpful to assist in diagnosing.
Can't just keep replacing parts hoping to change the correct one. That gets very expensive very fast. Before continuing it needs to be determined whether the issue is fuel or ignition related.
It is a bit confusing when you state it starts but won't turn over. Part of the issue could possibly be in the explanation you or your husband are giving to the mechanics. I find that extracting the correct information or description from people about an issue is usually sometimes more difficult than the repair itself.
Is a WD hitch necessary or required when being towed by a diesel pusher? Probably not but too many variables to have a blanket yes or no answer.
As already mentioned the air bag suspension should sit the same height with or without the tongue weight of the trailer due to the height sensors compensating for the sag. That said, the ride height really doesn't determine weight transfer, merely the height of the hitch upon hooking up the trailer, ie keeping the coach level.
There is still a fulcrum or leverage acting which is at the air bag(s) on the rear suspension. This is the pivot point if you will for the coach, trailer tongue weight plus coach weight behind the rearmost air bag(s). Now a 5 or 6k pound trailer on a 35k pound coach will not make much of a difference but throw a 10k plus pound trailer on the back of that 35k pound coach and it could have an affect on ride quality. This would be more evident in the porpoising affect going down the road. A triple axle trailer would have less of an adverse affect than a tandem axle trailer. A lot of variables come into play.
Personally, I can tell a difference with the use of a WD hitch but then again I am towing quite heavy, and that is even with a tag axle coach. The negative would be that there is an inherent friction or resistance in a WD hitch by design, so when making tight turns there will be some resistance to this turn by the spring bars and/or chains if so equiped working agains one another. It is not much but I thought it worth mentioning.
My theory, and this is only my theory, is that although the air bags are able to compensate rather quickly when going down the road, it is still not fast enough to compensate for the weight transfer and so there is that porpoising affect that comes into play as the tongue weight is magnified being XX distance behind the rearmost air bag. I have even notices this very little with a tag axle coach. Moreso with a single axle rear coach.
ZMotor you made my day..Looked in the closet an saw a carpeted box with vent, (Big Ole Smile) pulled the top. there sits my Inverter, the thing was set to equalize, I switched it over to the normal setting & everything seems to work as it should. Damn feels like I'm 6 on a Xmas Morning. When I bought the coach I asked about the 110 side of things and the owner said he always just ran the Genny. This guy had it several years and took a few trips and never knew that you could run 110 off the batteries..Since I had to switch it over from equalize to run I would assume that the converter is built within.. Hence there is no seperate converter it is a Inverter/Converter??? I have yet to remove the battery caps and check the acid level but would assume there is little to none since the thing was set to equalize for years. I've only driven it 400 mi to bring it home an set in the yard playing around with the systems for a few days.. I plan to work on things for a year or so before I hit the road I would like to have everything straight, because I'm physically impaired and only have Soc Sec for income I don't want, nor can afford any surprises..Well on my way to full timing....Yeah...
Glad I was able to help. By the way I just noticed that you are a new member, welcome aboard.
On a side note you had mentioned that the owner didn't realize he could run 110 volt AC appliances off of the inverter. You do realize that on that system you have to manually switch the system over. On our 91 Contessa in the overhead panel on the street side just as you entered the bedroom there were two rotary style switches that must be turned to draw from either shore power or inverter. No big deal but I just thought it worth mentioning so you could locate them before you really need them.
Good luck on the new to you rig. We really enjoyed our Contessa for the 7 years and 60k+ miles we owned it. Very well built coach on a Gillig chassis. My only complaints were the somewhat anemic CAT 3208 and the Allison MT654 transmission, great transmission as far as dependability and strength but the fact that it was only a four-speed was a drawback.
In our 91 Contessa the converter was under the bed just above the engine on the street side, almost had to stand on your head to see it.
The inverter was under a small removeable panel in the wardrobe closet. There is a small hole where you can put your finger and then pull up on the carpeted panel and the inverter was right under that.
This was in a side aisle 38 1/2' Contessa model. It may differ depending on models/floorplans.
I do not yet have it re-installed by my "Rock Guard" is a Blue Ox RV underskirt (They have a new name for it now)
This is a fabric mesh that streatches between the motor home and the towed, it makes sure that which is BELOW the hitch, Stays BELOW the hitch.
This is what I am getting ready to fabricate for ours for when we flat tow the Jeep.