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 > What weight oil

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pulsar

Lewisville, NC

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Posted: 05/23/02 09:06pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The Workhorse manual says 5W-30 is the preferred oil for the 8.1 L Chevy engine. I've never used that weight before. What is the wisdom of the forum?

Would you switch to a synthetic oil on the first oil change? If so, which one? Please keep in mind that we have to get the oil changed in "far off places" as we travel in the northern US and Canada during the summer.

Thanks in advance for your opinions and suggestions.

Tom & Sarah



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LVJ58

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Posted: 05/23/02 09:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pulsar, Our 2000 V-10 also calls for 5w-30 oil one reason is better fuel economy and the other is the newer computer assembled engines have closer tolerances. Regarding a change to synthetic, the Ford V-10 engine takes 7 to 10 thousand miles before it's completely broken in. Don't know about the 8.1 vortec. I waited until I had 13,000 miles before I switched to Mobile 1 Synthetic and stayed with the 5w-30.

Good luck, C. Jim


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Kenneth

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Posted: 05/23/02 10:48pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Generally, if the owner's manual recommends 5W-30 oil, it also says that 10W-30 is OK. Follow what the manual says. 5W-30 gives very slightly better fuel mileage and is better in very cold climates than 10W-30.

Here's some info on just how good modern oils are. It's published by 76, a Phillips brand, but applies to all oils with these symbols on the label--API service category SL & ILSAC GF-3.
http://www.tosco.com/internet_pub/repository/lubes/44_tn3_4.pdf

Folks will tell you all kinds of goofy stuff about oil--"5W-30 is too watery," "You need (blankety blank) for REAL protection," "My Daddy used (such & such) for forty years, and that's all I use." Forget all that. Follow the owner's manual.

Synthetics--that's a topic for heated discussion. In any case, it won't hurt if you wait until 5,000 or 10,000 miles, run it the full interval shown in the owner's manual, and if you're on the road, probably Mobil 1 is the best choice due to the wide distribution.

Do consider synthetic ATF. It does run cooler.

Ken

lynngol

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Posted: 05/24/02 08:00am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I agree with Kenneth, follow the owners manual. I used 5W-30 oil (non-synthetic) in my last vehicle for 158,000 miles and it still didn't burn oil when I gave it to my daughter.

pulsar

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Posted: 05/24/02 08:24am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the confirmation. As I stated, I've never used 5W-30 and have people telling me that it is too "watery."

Tom

Camping Joe

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Posted: 05/24/02 08:47am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would stay with the 5W30 oil until you get some serious mileage. Switch to synthetics, as was stated above, when about 10K miles. I have switched to 15W50 Mobil1 synthetics recently to my Suburban for towing in the summer. I have about 80K on it. I think this weight oil would provide better lubrication in the hot summer under heavy towing conditions. Since I use the Suburban for mostly towing the trailer I don't worry about the oil in the winter.

*This Message was edited on 24-May-02 12:48 PM by Camping Joe*



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Kenneth

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Posted: 05/24/02 10:48am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Joe,
With modern oils, we no longer need higher viscosity for higher film strength, especially with synthetic lubes.

Viscosity needs to be selected for the size space that it needs to flow into in the bearings. At 80k, your 'burb shouldn't be very worn. I think that 10W-30 would give you better lubrication and less wear than 20W-50. Most wear occurs when the engine is started and before the bearings have a chance to create the hydrodynamic layer of oil that keeps the metal surfaces apart. The thick 20W-50 will not flow as well in the cold engine. 20W-50 is for racers with engines that run at maximum heat for the whole race.

Ken

DJinCO

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Posted: 05/24/02 11:36am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Boy howdy, do you ever open up a "can-o-worms" with this one. Opinions on oil are like body orifices. (Everyone has one, and they all stink except mine!!!!)

I don't follow the "break in" theory. If new engines need to be "broken in" why does GM put Mobil 1 into the Corvette from the factory?

Watery oil.... When it's cold, you want the oil to flow freely. When it's hot, you want the oil to be a bit more viscous. (Thus the term viscosity!!!).

5W-30 means that when it's cold it flows easily, when it's hot it is 30 weight.

For what it's worth, (nothing really) I use Mobil 1 0W-30, and have since it came out a few years ago. It really works well in sub-zero temps. I don't think that it is even sold in areas where it get hot (like south Texas) so if I lived there, I would use Mobil 1 5W-30 instead.

Cheers,


Cheers, Doug



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Camping Joe

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Posted: 05/24/02 12:39pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kenneth,

I agree that most wear occurs on engine start, but for those that live in Denver knows the mountain passes here in Colorado. Going up to Eisenhower Tunnel from Denver is like running at maximum for an hour and not to mention the other passes one is likely to encounter on the trip into the mountains. I appreciate the fact that under normal circumstances I would only need 5W30 or 10W30, but I use this vehicle mostly for towing. I can see not running 15W50 oil if I used this vehicle as an everday vehicle (including winter season). I don't think you get as good of lubrication when you are running with those hot of conditions under the hood. I think I would get more metal to metal contact when running at high temp (many hours of driving)than at startup with low viscosity oils. You are probably right that I can run with 10W30, but I am in better range with the 15W50 weight oil.


*This Message was edited on 24-May-02 12:49 PM by Camping Joe*


DJinCO

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Posted: 05/24/02 12:44pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Before I get flamed for my 0W-30 oil, let me add that it snowed here last night, and as of this writing at 12:43 pm it is snowing.

Cheers,

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