I am about to purchase a Reese Weight Distribution Hitch for my Yukon. The trailer I'm trying to match it up to is a 2002 Outback 28 BH with a stated tongue weight of 660 lbs. My question is...do I buy a hitch rated for 750 lbs, or the hitch rated for 1000 lbs?? According to my dealer , he claims they are about the same price.
This may help you a little...The stated tongue weight is dry weight, I assume...Add two tanks of LP to the tongue, and a battery or two...Then if yours was like mine...The water tank was right behind the wall, in front...another 150 or 200 lbs of water...some gear...I think you can get the message...Our ultralight had a stated hitch weight of 350 lbs...By the time we were ready to go camping....That weight had grown to almost 600lbs..Your TT may be a different configuration...but the only way of finding the true tongue weight, is to weigh it...
I also agree that as long as you're going there...DUAL CAM is the only way to go...Pat
Patrick and Christine
and Maggie, the cocker spanial puppy
1995 Damon Ultrasport 3470 F53 Ford 460
1995 Ford Windstar-toad
Third opinion coming up!
Without question, in my mind, I would get the 1000# bars. I have a very similar set up and my tongue weight is 640lbs. I use the 1000# bars and it tows great. Good choice on the Dual-Cam.
*This Message was edited on 15-Jan-03 09:24 AM by bsmith0337*
2004 Sunnybrook 30FKS TT
Hensley 1400# hitch
2002 Ford F250, 7.3L PSD, SuperCab, Short bed, Auto, 3:73rear
1996 Harley Davidson FLHRI Road King
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I usually travelled last year loaded to the max 7400lbs (I weighed it). And, it didn't take much to get to the max weight even with a 2620 carrying capacity - especially with some tools stored under the front bed.
Remember, regardless of how the weight is distributed in the trailer, the following generally adds directly to the dry tongue weight:
2 - 30lb propane tanks = at least 60lbs
1 battery = at least 60lbs
My actual tongue weight ended up being approx 16% of 7400lb trailer weight = 1200lbs
And, I even have the trailer's spare tire mounted onto the back bumper of the trailer which should act to lighten the tongue weight. I guess I could get some heavier items into the rear storage under the bunk beds, but I prefer to load large light items such as chairs, childrens toys, life jackets, paddles, etc. into that large storage area.
So, although everybody was telling me the 1000lb WD bars should be plenty, they weren't. I wasn't successful distributing the tongue weight until I got the 1200lb WD bars.
BTW, the hitch/receiver that came on my truck from Ford is rated for 1250lb tongue weight with WD bars, so 1200lb hitch weight isn't a problem.
You will likely want to use the 1000lb bars, and be careful/consious about how your weight is being distributed throughout your trailer, as well as the resultant effect on the tongue weight.
*This Message was edited on 15-Jan-03 09:23 PM by Hornet27B*
If your still wondering, after all that good information, weigh the tongue AFTER your trailer is fully loaded for travel. Full propane and water tanks, etc. Then you will know for sure what the actual weight is and which bars you need.
You can weigh your tongue right in the driveway, using a 4' piece of wood and bathroom scales.There is a diagram for this in my trailer manual.
ps: your dealer should be able to trade you 750's for 1000's if needed. All hitch dealers around here will even trade bars, heads,shanks,etc.
Hampy
*This Message was edited on 16-Jan-03 05:22 PM by Hampy*
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