I have read many articles on motor oils...It is my understanding that all motor oils, no matter what brand, are actually blended by two or three companys in the U.S. Tropartic(Phillips) Vavoline, Pennzoil and all other name brands are the same. The specs are minimal, as are all oils. This includes the additives and the blending of different oils.
For the most part, oil is oil is oil. The key is the additive package that makes up about 1/4 of each quart. My best friend is an equipment service manager for a multi-million dollar fleet. He is extremely up to date on everything equipment maintenance related, and he says as long as you go with any of the major brands and RELIGIOUSLY change the oil and filter at proper intervals, you will have good service and long engine life (at least as far as oil is concerned).
I take all the 'guesswork' out of it and use the best oil on the market at the same time, and I'm happy to pay the extra for it. I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic motor oil. It's worth the extra cash, after all, we're using it in vehicles that we paid $30,000-$50,000 or more. In my opinion, it pays for itself with the superior protection it gives.
I have never heard of multiple companies blending one brand of oil, but that would not surprise me. Still, as Bob said, oil is basically oil, as long as you get the proper viscosity, one brand is no better than another (unless of course the brand name is something like Konka or Engine Death and selling for $.39/quart........LOL )
2009 Silverado 2500HD 4X4 C/C/6.0/3.73/Pullrite Super 5th.
2004 Puma 249RBS fifth-wheel bunkhouse.USAF/GULF WAR VET.
I know that changing oil at the recommended intervels is the inportant part. I use Mobil 1 because I've read so much about the bennefits from so many, that for a couple of hundred $$$ over the life of my tow vehicle I think its worth it. I still change the oil on recommended times.
S.F CA area
99 GMC Suburban/454/4.10
Dabo, Bobnanna is correct. Oil is oil and the additive package is what makes the difference. Different brands of oil have different packages.
Oil never wears out. It is the external contaminants that does oil in, and that is the reason for regular oil changes. It is also a good reason to frequently change the engine air filter, since a lot of airborne dirt makes its way to the crankcase through the airfilter. A very small amount of dirt goes a long way in distroying an engine.
In many cases the use of synthetic oil is still debatable. Many manufactures don't recognize it and the use of it voids their warranties. However, some do recognize its use.
Just remember the 5 functions of oil are to: lubricate, cusion, clean, seal, & cool, and if we do all the things we can to help the oil do its job our oil wetted components will last a long time.
Firestone Air Suspension
Hellwig Rear Anti-Sway Bar
Hensley Arrow Towing System (1,400 lbs)
I in no way claim to be an expert on oil, but! It would be fair to say that the API Service SG, SH, SL, SJ etc. would have something to do with the additive package? If so each manufacturer recommends a specific rating such as SL.
Lets also say that SL meets and exceeds earlier requirements of MD, VD, CD, SG, SH, etc., because that is what the oil can label says.
SG/SH is the recommended API Service for my vehicle, half the battle. The next battle would be viscosity which is also recommended by the manufacturer for temperature etc., my manufacturer recommends 5W-30.
I go to Meijer, similar to Super Wal Mart and K Mart and get the Meijer brand of 5W-30 API Service SL oil. The label states that it is packed by Citgo and gives many other reasons why this is a good oil.
America is a wonderful place it is nice to have a choice, preference or brand loyalty. As long as you meet the manufacturers requirements can you truely say your oil is the best of the best. I pay about a buck a quart and change my oil three times a year or every 3000 miles. Long live my 350!
1993 GMC C3500 CC, DRW, 6.5 TD, 4:10, 242,500 miles,
1998 Chevrolet K2500 Burb LS, 454, 154,500 miles
I sort of agree with the statement that oil is oil, but I totally agree with the thought that dirt or contaminants are what does oil in. The whole reason to change oil is because it gets dirty. That said, I have trouble justifying the expense of synthetic oil. Since synthetic costs 2 -3 times as much as conventional oil, the tendency is not to change it as often. I don't think that's a sound decision. I agree that synthetic oil is better than conventional, lubricates better, holds up to heat better, but how do you keep it clean? Even in my race car, I've gone from using Mobil 1 for 2 shows, to Pennzoil 30W, changed every race. Better to use a name brand, conventional oil, and change it every 3000 miles without fail. Clean conventional oil has to be better than dirty synthetic oil.
I would sure like to hear more about the "Many manufactures don't recognize it (synthetic oil) and the use of it voids their warranties."
I have never seen such a warning. Every engine that I have seen has an oil spec based on API service grade. As long as you use an oil that conforms to that spec you are golden. Major brand synthetics like Mobil 1 most certainly do conform.
My approach is to always use the least expensive "major brand" oil I can buy. I never stick to one particular brand but always pay attention to the API specs. I have a 1984 Chev 1/2 T./305 C.I. that I have applied this logic to and it is approaching 315,000 miles with same engine that was installed from the factory and the closest I have gone into the engine is to replace valve cover gaskets. I do believe in proper service intervals and try to stick to the listed service intervals in the owners manual more or less.
Dan & Vonieta Stogner
2003 Newmar Mountain Aire, Cummins 400 HP, ISL
2001 Malibu Toad
3 Westies, Charlie, Duffy, and Millie
Think of life as a terminal illness, because if you do, you will live it with joy and passion as it ought to be lived.
Daboo, I'm older than 70 now, and when I was in highschool, right after the civil war, I was taught that Pennsylvania oils were the best. I've had lots of cars, a few with over 200,000 miles, have always changed oil at 3000 miles or close to it. I do believe that any good oil is fine and that it should be changed, along with the filter at about 3000 miles no matter what the owner's manual might say. But I still do what I was taught in highschool. Happy Motoring and Merry Christmas