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Open Roads Forum  >  Beginning RVing

 > Location of water heater bypass

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Babs

Mason,Ohio U.S.A.

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Posted: 02/13/03 01:19pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have never dewinterized our MH, but this year we are going to give it a try. I know that when the dealer winterized it, the hot water heater was "bypassed" to install anti-freeze in the pipes. How do we reconnect the hot water heater to the lines? Ours is an Atwood 6 gallon, if that makes any difference. I've looked at the manual, but I see nothing labeled bypass. Please help those of us mechanically challenged!

Luke Porter

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Posted: 02/13/03 01:55pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The simple answer is follow the two lines in/out of the water heater to a valve on each line and turn the valve, usually 90 degrees.

Dave58

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Posted: 02/13/03 08:18pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You know where the water heater is because you have seen it, you need to locate the back of it inh a cabinet, a storage compartment or behind a removable panel. The majority of bypass systems consist of two valves that are on the lines going to and leading from the heater, and one in a jumper line that connects the two line. The two on the in and out lines should be in the closed position (handles across the line of flow), these need to be turned a quarter turn so that the handles line up with the pipes. The cross-over line valve should be in-line and you need to turn it a quarter turn so that is across the flow direction. Above all else, make sure that your water heater is full before you switch it on. By the way, drain and flush the unit before changing the valves so that you do not get antifreeze in the water heater. It will not hurt anything but will take forever to get it flushed out.

Good luck, it is an easy job and you can do it.


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Tsalla Apopka

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Posted: 02/13/03 06:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What's "Winter"?? It'll be 80 here on Sat.


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Clemkad

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Posted: 02/13/03 02:19pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You didn't say what type of rig. Some units have 3 separate valves. Look in cabinets including removing drawers near the water heater.

If you have 3 valves, switch all 3. Non-winterized, 2 of them will be lined up with the pipe and 1 (usually between the other 2) will be 90 degrees to the pipe.

In my Class C, the valves are under a drawer that had to be removed and then I have to reach around a heating duct.



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dirkus

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Posted: 02/13/03 02:37pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In our class-c there is only one valve near the heater under the galley sink.


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crowles

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Posted: 02/14/03 12:15pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Also be sure to replace the drain plug on the hot
water heater if it was removed....Your owners manual should cover winterization process in detail. Do it once and you'll be an expert!!


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Babs

Mason,Ohio U.S.A.

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Posted: 02/14/03 09:13am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This is the best part about Good Sam! We always receive help with our problems. Thank you so much for those who took the time to respond. when we get our Georgie Boy Maverick out of storage in a few days, we'll look for the bypass valves. And yes, it IS still winter here---the winter that never seems to end!

Rvpapa

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Posted: 02/14/03 07:13pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To Babs,
Run city water through your system (both hot and cold water lines) to rinse out the antifreeze BEFORE you "unbypass" the water heater. It takes forever to get the antifreeze out of the heater after. Art.

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Posted: 02/14/03 08:24pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Someone probably said this but make sure you tag the valves and turn the water heater off or draw a diagram on how you winterized. Some heaters have electric element and will burn it up if turned on without water in heater. Turn off heater and tag. To winterize...Ours has two valves on lines going into the tank, one at top and one at bottom of tank and a line that ties these tow lines together (bypass). To winterize on a system like this turn off the valves on the first two lines and open the bypass line. Then pump the system full of antifreeze (special RV antifreeze...not car antifreeze) by opening hot water valves at sink and suck antifreeze in with pump until it runs out all faucets. Pull plug and drain the tank so it doesn't freeze. An RV shop will do this for you for about $35.
Your post asked about dewinterizing...Use pump and fresh water to flush out the pink antifreeze from faucets. Reverse the valving on the bypass valves. Install the drain plug and fill the system up.

*This Message was edited on 14-Feb-03 08:28 PM by Phillerup*


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